IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


II  I.I 
11.25 


mm   jn2 
2.0 


lit 

u 


1.4 


1.6 


Hiotographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  I4S80 

(716)  172-4503 


■v^ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Tachnical  and  Bibliographic  Notas/Notas  tachniquas  at  bibliographiquas 

The  Institut*  has  attampted  to  obtain  tha  bast 
original  copy  avaiiabia  for  filming.  Faaturas  of  this 
copy  which  may  ba  bibliographicaily  uniqua, 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagas  in  tha 
raproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  changa 
'  tha  uaual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chackad  baiow. 

L'Institut  a  microfilm*  la  meilleur  exemplaira 
qu'ii  iui  a  4t4  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
da  cat  exemplaira  qui  sont  paut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite.  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mAthode  normaia  de  filmage 
sont  indiquAs  ci-dessous. 

1 

Colourad  covars/ 
Couvartura  da  coulaur 

___ 

Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

1 

Covars  damagad/ 
Couvartura  andommag6a 

_^ 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagAes 

1 

Covars  rastorad  and/or  iaminatad/ 
Couvartura  rastaurAa  at/ou  palliculte 

_^ 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurAes  at/ou  pelliculAes 

L^ 

Covar  titia  missing/ 

La  titra  da  couvartura  manqua 

v/ 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  dAcoiortes,  tachatAes  ou  piquAas 

R 

Colourad  maps/ 

Cartas  gAographiquas  an  coulaur 

— 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  dAtach6es 

Coloured  inic  (i.a.  othar  than  blua  or  blacic)/ 
Encra  da  coulaur  (i.a.  autra  qua  blaua  ou  noire) 

7 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

i^_ 

Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Pianchea  at/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

~^ 

Quality  of  print  varies/ 
QualitA  inAgale  de  I'impression 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reii*  avac  d'autres  documents 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppKmentaire 

The 
to  tr 


The 
posi 
oft! 
filml 


Orig 
begi 
the  I 
sion 
oth« 
first 
sion 
or  ill 


The 
shai 
TINI 
whii 

MaiD 
diffc 
entii 
beg^ 
righ 
reqi 
met 


D 


D 


D 


Tight  binding  may  cauae  shadowa  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serrie  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  ia 
distortion  ia  long  de  la  marge  intArieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  aJoutAea 
lore  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  la  texte, 
mais.  lorsque  cela  4tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  At*  filmAes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppltmentairea: 


D 
D 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obacurad  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc..  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pagtfs  totalement  ou  partieilement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  peiure, 
etc.,  ont  AtA  filmAea  A  nouveau  de  fa^on  h 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  Item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film*  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu*  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


30X 


y 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


'6 

Atails 
It  du 
nodifiar 
r  una 
ilmago 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  Iceeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


L'exemplaire  filmA  fut  reproduit  grice  i  la 
g^nirosit*  da: 

BibliothAque  nationale  du  Canada 


Las  images  suivantes  ont  At*  reproduites  evec  le 
plus  grand  soin.  compte  tenu  de  ia  condition  at 
de  la  nettet*  de  Texemplaire  film*,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contret  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


les 


Les  exempieires  originaux  dont  ia  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimie  sont  fiimAs  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminent  soit  par  ia 
derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  ie  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exempieires 
originsux  sont  filmto  en  commen^ant  par  ia 
premiere  pege  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminent  per 
la  derniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  freme  on  each  microfiche 
shell  contain  the  symbol  — ^-  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  epplies. 


Un  dee  symboles  suivants  apparaltra  sur  la 
dernlAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  seion  ie 
cas:  le  symbols  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ",  ie 
symbols  ▼  signifie  "FIN". 


re 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableeux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmAs  A  dee  taux  de  reduction  diffirents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  il  est  film*  A  partir 
de  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bes,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
iiiustrent  ia  mAthode. 


i  errata 
id  to 

fit 

ie  pelure, 

9on  A 


n 


1'  f  .■ 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

32X 


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♦    % 


i 


J- 


» ♦ 


1^ 


♦o 


1 


m 


'•r 


TRAVELS 


THROUGH  THE 


« 


UNITED  STATES  OF  AMERICA, 

IN  THE  YEARS 

1806  %  1807,  and   1809,  1810,  ^  1811  ; 

INCLUDING  AN  ACCOUNT  OF 
PASSAGES  BETH'IXT  AMERICA  f  BRITAIN, 

AND  TEATEL8  THROUQH  TAIIIOOS  rARTS  Or 

Brttatn,  f  relantr,  anti  Canatia. 

WITH  CORRECTIONS  AND  IMPR0VEM8«(TS 

TILL   1815. 

ILLUSTRATED   BY  COLOURED   MAPS   AND    PLANS. 


BY  JOHN  MELISH. 

WITH  AN  APPENDIX, 
CONTAINING  A  LETTER  FROM  CLEMENTS  Bl  rv...?IGH,  ESQ. 

TO  IRISH  KMIORANTS  REMOVING  TO  AMXRICA, 
AND  HINTS, 
BY    THE    SHAMROC    SOCIETY,    NEW-YORK, 

TO  IHIOaAMTS  FROM  RVROPI. 


P?iiladelphia ;  printed  for  the  Author. 

EonDon : 

REPRINTED  FOR  LONGMAN,  HURST,  REBS,  ORMB,  &  BROWKT  ; 

AND  JOHN  CUMING,  DUBLIN. 

Jf0^  1,1618. 


PRErAC'K. 


TiTE  journjil  of  a  traveller,  when  jiKlicioiisly  comniktl,  prcveiU-.  a 
livhfr  pictwe  (»f  the  stale  of  the  coimtry  throutrh  which  he  pas- 
ses; while  the  interest  that  is  exeited  by  the  narrative  frrjitincs  th* 
lUncy,  and  combines  to  rentier  this  at  onee  an  entertainin>r  jmi 
instructive  species  of  reailin<;  I  lenco  we  find  that  books  of  ira- 
vels  have  of  late  multiplied  to  a  jjfreat  extent,  and  are  always  in 
demand  with  the  public.  'J'he  field  is  inexhaustible,  and  mu^t 
continue  so  while  society  is  in  a  progressive  slate. 

No  c«)untry  presents  a  more  ample  field  for  inquiry  than  the 
United  States  of  America ;  tind  it  is  e<|ual]y  inip  rtant,  whether 
we  view  it  in  regard  to  the  inhabitants  of  America  or  of  liii- 
tain.  The  former  fiml  themselves  in  possessitm  of  uu  innuendo 
territory,  n  great  part  of  which  is  still  unoccupied,  or  viry  thin- 
ly inhabited,  t»o  that  there  is  room  for  the  indn^iry  of  thousands  tu" 
generations  yet  unborn  ;  nnti  jis  if  by  the  sjjecial  order  of  IVovi- 
(lencc,  mankind  are  invited  into  the  most  distant  re^iions  of  the 
countrvj  by  the  advantages  of  soil  and  climate,  no  where  ex'eed- 
cd  in  the  world.  Sprung  fnun  the  oidy  country  which,  at  the  pe- 
riod of  the  setthMuent  of  America,  possesscil  any  thing  like  ration- 
al freedom,  the  piinciples  of  the  popular  braneh  of  ihe  Brilinh  con- 
t<titution  catne  into  ju-actical  operation,  unalloyed  by  the  leudai 
system.  These  principles  have  since  been  njulured  nito  the  lull 
<levelopement  of  the  representative  system,  and  are  now  consoli- 
dated and  confirmed  in  the  habits  and  nuinneis  of  the  |  eo])lc  ; 
conferring  a  degree  of  freedom  on  mankiiul,  unknown  ijj  Eu- 
rope, antl  securing  to  industry  the  reward  of  ils  mi  j  it, — peace  and 
plenty.  Hence  the  progress  of  population,  of  agriculture,  of  ma- 
nufactures, of  the  arts  and  sciences,  and  of  tivili/ation,  have  been 
rapid  beyond  all  former  example.  'I'he  contemplation  of  the  sub- 
ject is  animating  to  the  niiiul;  it  inspires  confidence  in  the  future 
destinies  of  the  world,  and  calls  forth  sentiments  t)l" gratitude  to  llie 
supreme  Disposer  of  all  events. 

The  inhabitants  of  Britain  behold  in  America  a  pev>])lo  spruu"- 
mostly  from  the  same  ancestors  with  themselves  ;  they  >j)eak  tin- 
same  language,,  they  have  the  same  niainiei^  and  hahils,  auvl  the\r 
are  in  a  considerable  degree  governcil  by  liie  same  laws.  Tlu.V 
surplus  commodities,  and  their  demand  lor  liriiiish  manufacture, 
have  for  a  long  peri  oil  induced  an  exchange  highly  favourable  to 
Britain.  From  these  circumstances,  a  native  of  ihilain  finds  hiin- 
self  at  home  in  America;  and  thou^;andsofii;duNlriou.«s  liuuilies,  who 


« 


ll 


VI 


PREFACE. 


li 


have  mot  with  nn  hoHpitabie  recrptinn  oiu)  n  happy  asyhim  in 
the  hind,  can  haav  nnipic  tOHtiinony  to  the  vnluc  of  it.  The  two  na- 
tions are  indeed  formed  to  be  mutually  bcnoficinl  to  each  otiier ;  nnd 
though  IVovideneo,  for  wise  reasons,  no  doubt,  has  allowed  the  con- 
nection to  be  cut  ofl'for  the  present,  yet  it  is  to  be  hoped  it  will  be 
nguin  revived  to  mutual  advantage;  for  there  is  one  link  in  the 
rlmin — the  identity  of  language,  which  never  can  be  dissolved. 

To  the  inhabitants  of  otlier  countries  America  is  also  important, 
as  it  holds  out  the  right  hand  of  fellowship  to  all  nations,  unincum- 
bered by  entangling  alliances  with  any  ;  and  though  many  who  vi- 
sit the  country  for  commerce  or  permanent  settlement  will  necessn- 
rily  for  a  time  labour  under  some  disadvantages,  arising  from  a  dif- 
ferent langutige  and  other  local  circumstances,  yet  they  will  find  an 
liospitable  reception,  and  an  enjoyment  of  perfect  freedom  and 
security. 

^Vll<  n,  jji  consequence  of  having  formed  a  commercial  connection 
in  the  United  Stales,  in  the  year  1800,  it  became  necessary  for  mo 
to  visit  that  country,  I  had  no  intention  of  publishing  my  travels, 
nor  did  I  think  that  my  observations  would  hare  been  sufficiently 
extensive  or  interesting  to  be  laid  before  the  public.  But  many 
circumslnnces  have  concurretl  to  render  them  more  important  than 
I  had  originally  imagined  ;  and  a  second  journey  to  the  country  led 
to  nn  investigation,  the  result  of  which  I  now  consider  worthy  of 
publication.  The  following  brief  review  will  illustrate  my  motives 
and  doMgn  ;  and  it  is  with  much  deference  submitted  to  a  candid 
public. 

In  the  year  1708  I  made  a  voyage  to  the  West  Indies,  during 
\\l(irh  I  laitl  the  h)undation  of  a  series  of  studies  on  geography, 
nstroiiouiy,  natural  philosophy,  and  chemistry,  connected  with  na- 
ligation,  and  the  theory  of  winds,  tides,  and  currents,  in  the  At- 
l.ititic  Ocean.  My  voyage  to  America  afTorded  an  ample  opportu- 
nity for  resuming  these  studies,  which  1  did  not  fail  to  take  advantage 
of,  and  I  accordingly  kept  a  journal.  After  landing  in  America  I 
continued  my  journal;  and  circumatanccs  having  occurred  which 
rendered  it  necessary  to  make  a  more  extended  tour,  and  to  reside 
longer  in  the  country  than  I  originally  intended,  I  used  every  dili- 
ticncc  in  my  power  in  making  observations,  and  committing  them 
to  writing.  ^ly  tour  was  rapid  ;  but  my  mode  of  procuring  infor- 
mation was  such  as  I  trust  will  render  even  that  part  of  my  journal 
rK>t  uninteresting,  particularly  to  those  engaged  in  commerce. 

Previous  to  leaving  Britain  I  had  [)erused  all  the  "Travels in  A- 
merica"  to  which  I  had  access;  but  the  plan  of  none  of  them  pleas- 
ed me,  and  I  found  many  of  them  to  contain  such  cfftisions  of  igno- 
rance and  spleen,  that  1  came  to  the  resolution  to  discard  the  whole, 
and  to  take  for  the  basis  of  my  information  the  best  map  and  ga- 
zetteer of  the  United  States  1  could  procure,  and  these  were  my 
constant  companions  in  my  travels  through  the  country.     When  l 


/ 


I 


isyliim  in 
le  two  na- 
tllicr;  niut 
(1  ihecoii- 

I  it  will  be 
ink  in  the 
lived, 
niportnnf, 
uninciini- 
ly  who  vi- 

II  nccossn- 
lom  u  dit- 
ill  find  nri 
cduin  and 

onncction 
iry  for  me 
ly  travels, 
ufficioiitly 
3ut  many 
rtaut  than 
ountry  led 
worthy  of 
ly  motives 
)  a  candid 


s,  during 


I 


rnFFACR.  V 

arrival  in  a  new  state,  I  examined  it  in  the  map  and  gazetteer ;  and 
the  information  derived  from  these  I  eonfirmed  or  corn ited  by 
personal  obseivntit)n,  ond  information  iVom  tliose  to  whdiii  I  Icid 
aecesh.  I  observed  the  like  course  with  re;^nrd  to  every  tlistritt, 
town,  vilhiji;e,  lake,  or  river  which  I  passed  or  saw;  and  haviimeon,- 
mitted  the  result  to  ]>aper,^in  the  shortest  manner  ptissible,  1  com- 
pdcd  my  journal  from  these  notes  at  my  leisure.  In  this  manner  I 
travellcil  through  part  of  (Jeor^'ia,  South  Cnroiinr,  New  York, 
Ulinde  Is-land,  Massaehusetts,  (oimectirut,  New  .Jersey,  Pennsyl- 
vania, Delaware,  Maryland,  District  of  Columbia,  V  ir<^ini;»,  and 
North  Carolina  ;  so  that  I  had  oceiiRion  to  see  and  make  ol)Nerva- 
tioiis  on  all  the  Atlantic  states,  ineliuiing  the  ))rincipal  cities, 
rivers,  bays,  8cc.  on  the  eastern  eoost. 

Next  year  I  returned  to  Britain,  wliere  I  followed  up  my  plan 
of  making  memorandums,  principally  by  noticinii^  the  nature  of 
the  American  trade,  and  the  munutuetures  in  Hritain  calculated  iur 
America. 

The  commerciid  pursuits  in  which  I  had  been  enfroped  h.ivinp; 
beeti  interrupted,  1  returned  to  America  in  the  year  1S(){>,  in  or- 
der to  re-organize  the  business,  or  to  wind  it  up;  and,  liaviii<j  oe- 
casion  to  travel  extensively  throu;j;h  the  interior  of  Georgia,  1  ix- 
tended  my  remarks,  ami  found  an  opinion  Ibreed  upon  me,  that 
should  the  restrictions  on  commerce  be  of  long  duration,  Ami-ricii 
would  become  a  mamifacturing  coimtr\',  and  consejjucntly  would 
be  in  a  great  measure  independent  of  Europe.  That  opinion  re- 
ceived strength  and  confirmation  during  a  residence  in  New  York 
in  1 8 10,  where  I  was  fruitlessly  employed  in  looking  out  for  mer- 
cantile employment. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  year  181 1,  having  observed  a  regetuy  in 
Britain  without  a  change  of  councils,  or  the  removal  of  the  re- 
strictions on  commerce,  I  considered  that  the  con)niertial  relationN 
between  America  and  Britain  would  not  be  speedily  resumetl,  and 
considered  it  necessaiy  to  look  out  for  other  eiti))loyment.  In  seareo 
of  this  I  came  to  the  resolution  of  making  a  tour  into  the  interior 
of  the  country,  and  being  assisted  by  some  kind  friends,  I  was  en- 
abled to  procure  fiuch  a  stock  of  valuable  informalion,  thai  I  now- 
thought  it  would  be  of  importance  to  collect  materials  with  a  view 
to  the  publication  of  my  whole  travels,  and  to  conduct  my  in- 
quiries, in  my  proposed  tour,  accordingly. 

Ihis  tour  was  performed  to  my  entire  satisfaction,  and  the  re- 
sult of  my  inquiries  appeared  so  important  that  the  publication 
was  determined  on,  providetl  the  plan  met  public  approbation. 
With  a  view  of  ascertaining  that  point,  a  prospectus  was  issue* i, 
and  a  subscription  list  promoted,  the  result  of  which  has  excetdi.ii 
my  most  sanguine  expectation  ;  for  though  I  was  able  to  tak  _•  the 
sense  of  but  a  small  jwrtion  of  the  community  comparatively,  I  ob- 
tained a  very  large  and  most  respectable  list  of  subscribers. 

Encouraged  by  this  honourable  patronage,  1  have  endeavoured 
to  improve  upon  my  original  plan,  and  have  added  a  great  variety 


I  .    II 

n 


t 


T 
'I' 


VI 


PREFACE. 


of  matter  not  contemplated  in  the  outlines,  that  the  work  mi^ht 
embody  a  complete  geography  of  the  United  States.  Tlus»  in  the 
iirst  attempt  that  has  come  under  my  observation  to  incorporate  a 
geographical  description  of  a  country  in  a  journal  of  travels,  and  I 
hope  it  will  not  be  without  its  use  to  the  public.  That  it  might  be 
AS  complete  as  possible,  I  have  noticed  even  those  states  and  territo- 
ries that  I  did  not  travel  through,  selecting  those  parts  of  the  narra- 
tive for  their  introduction  that  I  thought  would  be  most  appropriate. 
In  the  description  of  the  eastern  states  the  population  is  given  by 
the  census  of  1800,  because  that  of  1810  was  not  taken  when  1  tra- 
velled through  them ;  but  the  statistical  table  and  census  of  the 
United  States  introduced  into  the  work,  present  a  view  of  the  po- 
pulation to  the  latter  period,  and  1  have  occasionally  added  notes  at 
some  of  the  cities.  At  the  close  of  the  work  J  have  added  an  alpha- 
betical index,  which  will  serve  in  some  respects  the  place  of  a 
gazetteer. 

In  short,  no  pains  nor  cxpencc  has  been  spared  to  render  the 
work  worthy  of  public  patronage;  and  with  a  view  of  making  it 
acceptable  to  the  whole  public,  1  have  avoided  all  notice  of  local 
])olitics,  except  sometimes  a  mere  casual  observation,  not  calculat- 
ed to  reflect  on  any  party.  On  the  relations  between  this  country 
and  Britain  1  have  been  compelled  to  be  more  pointed.  The  late 
conduct  of  those  who  administer  the  affairs  of  England  has  not 
been  of  a  nature  merely  speculative.  It  has  involveu  a  moral  prin- 
ciple, and  affected  the  best  interests  of  the  human  race.  The  con- 
duct adopted  towards  the  United  States  influenced  my  own  pro- 
ceedings in  a  veiT  considerable  degree.  In  conducting  my  narra- 
tive, it  was  absolutely  neccRsary  to  notice  it ;  and  I  have  done  so 
agreeably  to  what  I  consider  the  rules  of  truth.  Many  of  my 
readers  may  differ  with  me  in  opinion  on  this  subject :  to  such  1 
have  merely  to  remark,  that  I  have  hazarded  no  opinion  lightly, 
nor  without  due  examination.  My  information  has  been  drawn 
from  the  most  correct  sources,  both  in  Britain  and  America.  I 
liave  never  been  connected  with  any  poliiical  party,  and  I  am  con- 
scious of  being  free  from  any  bias,  but  a  sacred  regard  for  truth 
and  justice.  Still,  however,  errors*  may  have  escaped  me :  I  am 
open  to  conviction  ;  and  if  they  are  pointed  out,  it  will  give  me 
sincere  pleasure  to  correct  them. 

To  my  numerous  and  very  respect">ble  subscribers,  and  those 
gentlemen  who  favoured  me  with  information,  I  beg  leave  to  re- 
turn my  most  sincere  thanks  for  their  encouragement  and  assistance ; 
and  my  thanks  are  due  to  the  American  public  generally,  for  the 
kind  attention  with  which  I  have  been  treated  during  ray  exten- 
sive travels  through  the  country. 

On  the  other  hand,  1  trust  this  work  will  be  found  not  altoge- 
ther unworthy  of  public  attention.  Independent  of  the  casual  in- 
formation collected  while  I  was  engaged  in  other  pursuits,  it  has 
been  the  result  of  incessant  labour,  of  both  body  and  mind,  for  near- 
y  two  years,  in  which  I  have  had  every  aid  that  books,  maps,  charts. 


Hi 


M 


FRBTACB. 


"Vll 


rork  might 
riiis  is  the 
:orporate  a 
ivels,  and  I 
it  might  be 
Lind  territo- 
f  the  narra- 
ippropiiate. 
s  given  by 
when  1  tra- 
nsiis  of  the 
of  the  po- 
led notes  at 
d  an  alpha- 
place  of  a 

render  the 
['  making  it 
ce  of  local 
lot  calculat- 
his  country 
The  late 
id  has  not 
moral  prin- 
I    The  con- 
^  own  pro- 
my  narra- 
te done  so 
ny  of  my 
to  such  I 
on  lightly, 
sen  drawn 
lerica.      I 
I  am  con- 
for  truth 
le :    I  am 
1  give  me 

md  those 
ive  to  rc- 
Issistance ; 
for  the 
ny  extcn- 

)t  altoge- 
:asual  in- 
3,  it  has 
Ifor  near> 
is,  charts. 


and  verbal  information  could  give  me.  If  it  is  found  ilefcctive,  I 
have  no  plea  but  want  of  capacity ;  I  have  done  my  best.  As  the 
facts  have  been  collected  with  great  tare,  so  they  have  been  com- 
municated with  a  strict  adherence  to  truth,  and  with  a  view  of 
f)romoting  the  best  interests  of  mankind,  by  a  sincere  friend,  who 
las  no  motive  for  deceiving  them.  With  these  observations  I  con- 
sign the  work  to  the  tribunal  of  the  pubhc,  and  1  shall  bow  with 
submission  to  their  decree. 

JOHN  MELISIL 
Philadelphia^  October  12,  1812. 


POSTSCRIPT. 

The  distinguished  approbation  which  this  work  has  received,* 
and  the  probability  that  there  will  be  an  increased  demand  for  it 
in  ctmsequence  oi  the  peace  which  has  happily  been  established 
between  Britain  and  America,  has  induced  the  author  carefully  to 
revise  it,  to  correct  inaccuracies. 

Philadelphia y  Marchy  1815. 

*  Etlract  <^   a   Letter  from  Mr.   Jefferson. 

I  have  read  your  Travels  with  cxireme  siitisfactton  and  infumiation.  As  tti  the  w«s- 
trrn  states,  particularly,  it  has  greatly  edified  me ;  for  of  the  actual  condition  of  tliat 
interesting  portion  of  the  country  I  had  not  an  adequate  idea.  I  feel  myself  now  as 
fuiiiiliar  with  it,  us  with  the  condition  of  the  maritime  states. 

llie  candour  with  which  you  have  viewed  the  manners  and  condition  of  our  citizens, 
is  so  unlike  the  narrow  prejudices  of  the  French  and  llnglisli  travellers  preceding  yuu« 
who,  considering  each  the  manners  and  habits  of  their  own  people  as  tlie  only  ortho- 
dux,  have  viewed  every  thing  difl'cring  from  that  text  as  boorish  and  barbarous ;  that 
your  work  will  be  read  here  extensively,  and  operate  great  good 

Extract  Jrom  the  Port   Folio. 

Jlere  is  a  kind  of  plienomennn.  Two  whole  volumes  of  Travels  in  America  without 
any  material  errors ;  with  no  palpable  falsehoods  ;  no  malignant  abuse  of  individuals ; 
no  paltry  calumnies  on  the  institutions  of  the  United  States. — The  author  is  a  plain 
practical  man,  whose  obser\-ations  are  chiefly  valuable  on  account  of  the  stamp  of  trutli 
and  simplicity  which  they  l)ear,  and  who  has  examined  the  United  Sutes  as  many 
others  are  interested  in  regarding  it,  as  a  safe  asylum  for  those  who  are  al>out  to  form 
cither  commercial  or  agricultural  establislur.eiits.  He  is  obviously  a  shrewd  and  scnsi- 
hlo  obser\er,  and  there  is  a  clearness  in  his  perceptions,  and  an  accuracy  in  his  details, 
which  is  very  satisfactory,  lliisi  work  contains  a  number  of  highly  intcitsting  anil 
.iiriouk  statikticul paper*,  which  add  much  to  iis  value. 


< 


i 


f 


INTRODUCTION 

I  SHALL  commence  my  introductory  remarks  by  a  short  de- 
scription of  the  City  of  Glas^^ow. 

Glasgow  is  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the  river  Clyde,  at  the 
head  of  the  tide  water.  It  is  400  miles  from  Louden,  42  from 
Edinburgh,  and  22  from  Greenock,  which  may  be  considered  as 
its  port  It  is  the  second  city  in  Scotland,  and  contained,  by  the 
enumeration  of  1801,  77,'i85  inhabitants.  The  city  is  regularly 
built,  and  the  houses,  being  all  of  free-stone,  have  a  very  ele- 
gant appearance.  The  public  buildings  are  numerous,  and  many 
of  them  splendid ;  among  which  may  be  reckoned  the  cathedral, 
the  Infirmary,  and  the  College  buildings;  which  last,  though  uKi 
and  antiquated,  are  spacious,  and  the  institution  is  esteemed  one 
of  the  finest  seminaries  of  education  in  Britain.  The  manufac- 
tures of  Glasgow  have  arisen  to  great  extent  and  perfection,  par- 
ticularly those  of  cotton.  The  principal  articles  of  manufacture 
calculated  for  the  United  States  are,  fancy  musHns  (a  sort  of  sta- 
ple commodity,)  printed  calicoes,  ginghams,  shirtings,  hosiery, 
threads,  tapes,  earthen  and  glass  ware,  iron  ware,  &C.  Glasgow 
is  also  a  market  for  disposing  of  the  manufactures  of  the  otlier 
parts  of  Scotland,  particularly  of  Dundee,  Perth,  and  Fifeshire, 
such  as  sail-cloth,  cotton  ba^^gin^,  osnaburgs,  cotton  and  linen 
checksj  and  ticks — of  Duniermhne,  table  cloths,  sheetings  and 
tovvelings— of  Stirling  and  Kilmarnock,  carpeting,  gloves,  &c. 
The  returns  from  America  consist  principally  of  cotton,  of  which 
Glasgow  manufactures  above  10,000  bales  annually. 

Having  served  an  ample  apprenticeship  to  business  in  one  of  the 
principal  manufacturing  houses  in  Glasgow,  I  resolved,  in  the 
beginning  of  the  year  1806,  to  commence  business  on  my  own 
account.  I  had  long  studied  the  trade  to  the  United  States  of 
America,  and  was  well  aware  of  its  importance  to  both  countries; 
but  the  constant  jealousies  which  had  existed  between  them,  dur- 
ing Mr.  Pitt's  administration,  induced  me  to  decline  embarking 
in  it.  Towards  the  close  of  the  year  1805,  a  change  of  counsels 
took  place  in  Britain,  and  at  the  head  of  the  new  ministry  was 
that  great  and  enlightened  statesman,  Charles  James  Fox.  From 
the  known  sentiments  of  Mr.  Fox,  for  justice  and  moderation, 
I  calculated  that  every  thing  would  be  amicably  arranged  between 
the  two  governments,  for  I  never  had  any  doubt  as  to  the  just 
and  pacific  policy  of  the  United  States.  I  trusted  in  a  lasting 
friendship  between  the  two  countries,  and  in  a  great  and  increas- 
ing commerce;  and  I  accordingly  embarked  in  it  with  all  the 
ardour  of  commercial  enterprize;    selecting  for    my  branch  th'' 


INTRODUCTION. 


[1 


I 
i;? 


trade  to  Savamiab,  in  Georgia,  in  which  it  appeared  there  was  a 
good  opi'iiinp,  and  I  was  particularly  well  acquainted  with  the 
Loiinuodity  to  be  returncil,  cotton. 

llavinj;  completed  my  purchases,  and  established  my  connec- 
tions, I  resolved  to  go  to  America  in  person,  to  establisli  the 
business  there,  and  made  preparations  for  the  voyage  accordingly; 
and  the  following  remarks,  grounded  upon  an  essay  of  the  late 
ielebi'aled  Dr.  I''ranklin,  and  the  result  of  a  good  deal  of  experi- 
ence, may  be  useful  to  otliers.  I  have  summed  them  up  under 
tiie  title  of 

Advice  to  those  about  to  undertake  a  Sea   Voyage. 
'   \y\\ox\  you  intend  to  take  a  long  voyage,   endeavour  to  have 
your  whole  business  transacted,  so  as  you  may   have  a  few  days 
to  spend  with  your  friends,  and  to  attend  to  the  little  necessaries 
that  may  be  recpiisitc  on  the  voyage,  previous  to  your  departure. 

It  IS  not  always  in  a  person's  power  to  choose  a  captain,  al- 
though a  good  deal  of  the  comfort  of  the  passage  depends  upon 
this  choice.     The  chief  requisites  are,  that  he  be  a  good  seaman ; 
jittcntive,  careful,  and  active  in  the  management  of  his  vessel :  and 
of  these  circumstances,  and  indeed  all  others  relative  to  the  pas- 
sage, you  must  satisfy  yourself  before  setting  out,  for  tliere  is  no 
use  in*  making  complaints  at  -sea.      It  is  still  more  difficult  to 
iiuike  choice  of  sociable  tellow-passengcnj.     A  ship  is  like  a  stage- 
coach, it  must  accommodate  all  comers ;  and  one  surly  fellow  may 
jiiolest  a  whole  ship's  company.     But  a  person,  by  having  resour- 
tes  of  hi«j  own,  may  make  himself,  in  a  great  measure,  indepen- 
dent of  other  people,  and  it  will  be  well,  before  going  on  board,  to 
take  measures  to  accomplish  that  desirable  object.     For  this  pur- 
j.ose,  a  small  library  of  books  will   be  found   very  entertaining, 
;,nd  if  you  have  any  turn  for  the  study  of  mathematics  and  draw- 
ing, you  will  have  a  good  opportunity  to  practise  on  board;  and 
II  case  of  mathematical  instruments,  and  a  box  of  paints,  will  be 
iiocesstuy. 

The  gjeatcr  part  of  the  cnrrying  trade  between  Riitain  and 
America  is  perlormed  in  American  vessels,  and  a  cabin  passage 
ill  one  of  these  vessels  is  generally  very  agreeable.  The  expeiue, 
iucludlng  every  thing,  is  from  30  to  40  guineas.  There  are  vari- 
ous modes  of  laying  in  provisions.  One  is  fiir  the  captain  to  pro- 
vide every  thing;  another  is  to  provide  every  thing,  except  li- 
quors ;  and  a  third  is  for  the  passengers  to  lurnish  every  thing, 
at  their  joint  ex  pence.  If  the  cu}>tain  be  a  judicious  man,  there: 
will  generally  be  a  good  supply,  in  either  case.  But  it  may  noi 
bj  iuniss,  tor  thobC  who  can  alford  it,  to  have  a  private  assojt- 
iiienL  of  good  tea  and  cordials;  s>iu)uld  they  not  have  occassion  to 
use  li.em  themselves,  they  may  have  an  i  {^.01  lunity  (J'  serving 
some  poor  steerage  passenger. 


here  was  a 
:d  witli  the 

1^'  conneo- 
tablisl)  the 
ccordingly; 
3t'  the  late 
of  ex  peri - 
up  under 

ur  to  have 
a  few  days 
necessaries 
eparture. 
captain,  al- 
ends  upon 
od  seaman ; 
i^esscl:  and 
to  the  pas- 
lu?re  is  no 
difficult  to 
ike  a  stage- 
fellow  maj 
ing  resour- 
S  indepen- 
board,  to 
this  pur- 
tertaining, 
and  draw- 
oard;  and 
ts,   will  be 

itain  and 
m  passage 
expontc, 
are  vari- 
m  to  pio- 
except  li- 
vy  ihii!(^. 
lan,  there 
t  tnay  noi 
te  assMii- 
lassion  t<» 
i  scrvin;i 


INTRODUCTION. 


XI 


•f 


I 


There  Is  generally  a  metlicine  chest  on  board,  but  it  iu  pome- 
limes  not  in  very  good  order;  and  It  will  be  advisable  to  have  a 
few  simple  medicines  of  your  own,  such  as  rhubarb,  cream  of  tar- 
tar, and  Peruvian  bark ;  and  a  few  dozens  of  soda  water  will  be 
found  a  very  agreeable  beverage. 

When  a  family  undertake  a  sea  voyage,  ihcv  have  gcnorally 
their  own  servant ;  and  if  they  arc  numerous,  they  will  find  it 
most  comfortable  and  most  economical  to  enpige  a  state-room, 
and  lay  in  their  own  stores.  For  the  information  of  such,  I  shall 
Jiere  subjoin  a  list  of  the  most  essential  articles. 

They  are  entitled  to  the  ship's  j^rovisions:  biscuit,  salt  beef,  pork, 
pease,  &c. — In  addition,  they  will  require  meal,  barley,  flc^ur,  po- 
tatoes, |>igs,  ducks,  fowls,  porter,  wine,  and  spirits.  Beef,  unit- 
ton,  and  loaf  bread  will  keep  fre!?h  eight  or  ten  days  at  sea,  and 
it  should  be  always  laid  in,  as  it  proves  not  only  a  considerable 
•saving  to  the  fresh  stock,  but  is  gelicrally  more  grateful  to  tho 
-stomach  at  that  period  than  any  other  food. 

The  expence  of  a  steerage  pnssage  is  about  twelve  guineas,  and 
the  passengers  are  entitled  to  the  whole  ship's  provisions  bei'ore 
enumerateti;  but  to  make  themselves  comfortable,  it  will  be  pro- 
per to  add  a  little  stock  of  tea,  sugar,  liquors,  barley,  and  oat 
meal.  It  is  generally  necessary,  both  in  the  cabin  and  steerage, 
for  the  passengers  to  furnish  their  own  bedding.  I  may  take  oc- 
casion here  to  remark,  that  this  practice  is  an  improper  one. 
A^essels  which  are  calculated  to  carry  passengers,  should  be  pro- 
vided with  bedding,  particularly  in  the  cabin  births.  They  are 
furnished  at  no  great  expence,  and  one  set  would  serve  many 
passages,  so  that  the  expence,  during  one  passage,  would  be 
trifling:  whereas,  by  the  present  practice,  each  passenger  is  sub- 
jected to  a  considerable  expence,  besides  the  trouble  of  purchas- 
ing his  bedding,  and  of  selling  it  again  at  the  close  of  the  passage. 

A  few  general  remarks,  to  be  attended  to  while  at  sea,  shall 
conclude  this  article. 

A  short  time  after  setting  sail,  the  passenger*;  generally  get  sea 
sick.  This  complaint,  though  lightly  esteemed,  Siecause  not  dan- 
gerous, is  often  very  severe  while  it  lasts,  and,  if  treated  impro- 
perly, it  may  cause  a  relaxation  of  the  stomach,  that  will  be 
very  troublesome.  While  the  sickness  continues,  people  have  an 
aversion  of  all  kinds  of  food  and  drink.  Many  abstain  from  both, 
three  or  four  days.  This  is  a  bad  plan.  I'he  stomach  should 
never  be  allowed  to  get  entirely  empty.  A  little  chicken  broth  or 
water  gruel  should  be  freely  used ;  and  people  should  go  upon 
deck  as  ^pon  as  possible.  Breathing  the  foul  air  of  the  cabin  or 
steerage  promotes  the  disease  ;  whereas  exercise  and  free  air  on 
deck  relieve  it.  A  little  soda  water  will  at  this  time  be  very  ex- 
hilarating; and  as  soon  as  the  stomach  is  so  far  cleansed  as  to  kee* 
free  from  retching,  a  little  Peruvian  bark  will  be  very  bencf5 
as  a  restorative.  Care  should  be  taken  to  guard  against  c 
aess,  a  very  troublesoaie  complaint  at  sea.     -V.t,tontion  to  '' 


/ 


/ 


V 


,^ 


XII 


INTRODUCTION, 


ii 


exercise  will  often  prevent  it ;  but  where  that  fails,  a  little  laxn- 
live  medicine,  such  ns  rhubarb,  cream  of  tartar,  or  castor  oil, 
should  be  resorted  to. 

When  the  weather  is  good,  people  should  rise  early*  The  air 
of  the  cabin  is  not  only  nifccted  by  the  respiration  ol  the  passen- 
gers, but  it  is  often  cuntaminated  bv  the  bilge  water ;  while  the 
sea  air  on  deck  is  always  pure  and  healthy.  The  breakfast  hour 
at  sea  is  8  o'clock,  dinner,  I,  and  supper  6  or  7.  It  is  a  general 
rule  amongst  the  passengers,  to  have  themselves  washed  and  dress- 
ed before  sitting  down  to  breakfast.  Betwixt  breakfast  and  dinner, 
the  time  may  be  profitably  employed  in  walking,  reading,  draw- 
ing, &c. ;  and  (-uch  as  have  a  taste  for  navigation  will  have  a  good 
opportunity  for  practical  improvement,  as  tliey  can  have  access  to 
the  log-book;  and  the  captain  and  mates  are  generally  very  oblig- 
ing, in  loading  their  navigation  books  and  instrument^  to  those 
who  wish  them. 

Temperance  at  table  is  necessary  ever}^  where,  and  especially  at 
.»?ca,  where  the  exercise  is  necessarily  limited.  "Where  wine  is 
nsed,  three  or  four  glasses  will  generally  be  found  more  beneficial 
than  a  larger  quantity ;  and  people  ought,  on  no  account,  to  in- 
dulge themselves  at  the  table  a  whole  afternoon,  though  it  is  fre- 
quently done.  It  ii  much  better  to  take  exercise  in  the  open  air  on 
deck. 

In  the  evening,  the  company  frequently  amuse  themselves  at 
cards,  baokgammoa,  &c. ;  these,  v.hen  resorted  to  for  amusement 
only,  are  rational  and  innocent  encugh;  but  when  the  play  is  for 
money,  they  ought  to  be  avoided. 

I  may  add,  that,  generally  speaking,  people's  happiness  is  very 
much  in  their  own  power.  A  suavity  of  manners,  and  an  obliginc- 
ly  civil  deportment,  is  calculated  to  secure  the  esteem  of  mankind ; 
and  when  things  are  not  exactly  as  we  would  wish  them  to  be,  it 
;viU  add  to  our  own  comfort  to  take  them  as  we  find  them. 


>.! 


i 


4l» 


]\ 


'1 . 


little  laxn- 
castor  oil, 

y.  The  air 
the  passen- 
;  while  the 
[ikfast  hour 
s  a  general 
1  and  dress- 
tnd  dinner, 
ling,  draw- 
liavc  a  good 
ve  access  to 
very  oblig- 
itsi  to  those 

specially  at 
ere  wine  is 
I  beneficial 
mt,  to  in- 
;h  it  is  fre- 
pen  air  on 

tnselves  at 
miisement 
play  is  for 

;ss  is  very 
obliging* 

mankind; 
to  be,  i% 

n. 


TABLE    OF    CONTENTS, 


JPrEFACE.  ImporUncc  of  hooks  of  travels ;  Importance  of  the  United  Suiev ; 
Motives  and  design  of  publication ;  Voyage  to  the  West  Indies,  and  studios  connected 
with  it;  Continued  in  a  voyage  to  America ;  Mode  of  procuring  infomnation;  Change 
of  circumstances;  Tour  to  tlic  western  country;  Explanation  of  the  plan;  General 
remarks. 

INTRODUCTION,  page  9.  Description  of  Glasgow;  Change  of  councils  in 
T^ritain ;  Probaliility  of  a  lasting  peace  with  America ;  Prepare  to  embark  for  that 
country;  Advice  to  those  about  to  undertake  a  sea  voyage ;  Cabin  passage;  Single 
jMssengers,  families ;  Steerage  passage ;  General  remarks  to  be  attended  to  at  sea. 

CHAPTER  I.  p.  25.  Depart  from  Glasgow;  Paisley:  Extensive  view ;  TXivcr 
Clyde ;  Greenock  ;  Configuration  of  tlie  country  ;  Frequent  rains  on  the  west  coast ; 
Anecdote;  Passengers;  Sail  from  Greenock;  Firth  of  Clyde;  Arran ;  Ailsa  Craig; 
Mull  of  CantjTc;  Atlantic  ocean ;  A  fair  wind;  A  gale;  Headwinds;  Bermudas; 
Gulf  stream  ;  American  coast;  Savannah  river. 

CHAPTER  II.  p.  51.  General  remarks ;  Occupations  at  sea ;  ^Vinds  in  the  At- 
lantic; Trade  winds;  Variable  winds;  Gulf  stream;  Banks  of  Newfoundland;  Is- 
lands of  ice ;  Courses  across  the  Atlantic  at  diflerent  seasons. 

CHAPTER  III.  p.  35.  Reflections  in  Savannah  ;  Description  of  the  city;  Trade, 
Country  in  its  vicinity  ;  Articles  of  commerce ;  Exports  and  imports ;  Savannah  river. 

CHAPTER  IV.  p.  38.  Journey  up  the  country;  Roads;  Creeks;  An  inn;  Re- 
mains of  a  burnt  negro ;  Sultry  weather ;  Taverns ;  Domestic  manufactures ;  Pin^ 
barrens ;  Remarks  on  health  ;  Construction  of  cities  ;  Draining  ;  EflTects  of  oxygen  , 
A  mctliodist  church;  Reflections  on  cnmp  meetings;  Baptists;  Wayncsborou<ib  ; 
Mills  and  machinery ;   Arrive  at  Louisville. 

CHAPTER  V.  p.  45,  Description  of  Louisville ;  a  fever ;  An  experiment ;  Kind- 
ness of  Dr.  Powell ;  State-house :  New  purchase :  Lottery  of  public  lands ;  R^cct 
tions  tliereon  ;  Anniversary  of  in<lependcnce ;  A  toast ;  American  character  ;  Leave 
Louisville ;  Richmond  springs ;  A  poet ;  Set  out  for  Augusta. 

CHAPTER  VI.  p.  50.  Augusta;  Country  round  it;  Cross  Savannah  river; 
North  Carolina;  Hospitality  of  the  planters ;  A  country  store ;  Re-cross  Savannab 
r:ver ;  Signs  of  a  storm ;  Remarkable  eleetric  i^ark  |  Arrive  in  Savannah ;  Prepare 
to  go  New  York. 

CHAPTER  Vn.  p.  55.  Passage  to  New  York ;  A  fair  wind;  Gulf  stream;  A 
severe  gale  ;  A  calm;  Clear  weather ;  High  lands  of  Neversink ;  Sandy  Hook  ;  l^^ong 
Island;  Statrn  Island  ;  Narrows;  Quarantine  ground  ;  Bay  and  islands;  Brooklyn; 
New  York, 


XIV 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  VII r.  p.  56  Deicriptiini  of  New  Yo)k  ;  Public  buiUh'njw ;  Markets; 
Sftifiols  ;  Tinilp ;  Tolicc ,  roiiiics  :  Press ;  I'artics ;  lliDinns  Paine ;  Yellow  fever  ; 
Trt'ilv  ol'  the  wonliiir. 

CHAP  TEK  IX.  |>.  fi~.  Journey  to  the  New  England  stattr  ;  East  river;  HeU* 
gntc  ;  I.oiip  Islaivl  sound,  Elegant  views;  A  eourtsliip  ;  Rnco  ;  Narrap;an'iOt  buy ; 
Newport ;  Fine  views  ;  Beautiful  female ;  Another  courtship  ;  Providence  ;  Gcitgra- 
jibiiMl  arrangeint'Tit. 

CHAPTER  X.  p.  B9.  Ilhode  Island ;  Situation:  Extent;  Area;  Face  of  the 
countrj- ;  Minerals ;  Soil ;  Climate ;  Settlement  and  progress ;  Cinl  divisions  and  po- 
pulation ;  Improvements ;  T'owns ;  Roads ;  Bridges ;  Agriculture  and  produce ; 
Manufactures  ;   Commerce  ;  State  of  society  ;  Government 

rilAl'TER  XI.  p.  71.  A  disappointment;  EtTects  of  it ;  Rct.iliation  ;  Leave 
IVovidence;  Rule  i'or  swc.irin;; ;  Patuckct  river;  Cotton  manufactures:  Reflcctinns 
find  calculations  on  the  cotton  trade;  Maosachussets ;  Dc«Uiam;  bcaatiful  prospects; 
Boston  neck  ;   Boston- 

CHAPTER  XIJ.  p.  77.  De-criptinn  of  Boston ;  Public  buildings;  Markets; 
Commerce  ;  Manuf.iclures ;  Bunks ;  Societies ;  Character  of  the  itdiabitants ;  State- 
liousc ;  Fine  view  ;  Bridges  ;  .l.uint  to  Salom  ;  Clnrlcstoii ;  Bunker's  Hill ;  Mystie 
tiver  ;  Swamp  and  floating  bridge  ;  Lynn  ;  Expensive  turnpike ;  Salem  j  \VTiarve8  and 
diipping  ;   Reflections  ;   Return  to  Boston. 

CHAPTER  XIIL  p.  82.  New  Hampshire;  Situation;  Extent;  Area;  Face  of 
the  countrj' ;  Mountains ;  Lakes;  Rivers;  Minerals;  Soil;  Climate;  Settlement  and 
progress ;  civil  divisions  and  poptdation  ;  Improvements ;  Towns ;  Roads  ;  Bridges  ; 
Agriculture  and  produce ;  Manufactures  ;  Commerce ;  State  of  society ;  Government. 
CHAPTER  XIV.  p.  85.  Vermont;  Sitnation  ;  Extent;  Area;  Face  of  the  coun« 
try;  Mountaitis;  Rivers;  Minerals;  Soil;  Climate;  Settlement  and  progress ;  Civil 
divisions  and  population  ;  Improvements ;  Towns  ;  Agriculture  and  produce ;  IManu- 
factures;  Commerce;  State  of  society ;  Government. 

CHAPTER  XV.  p.  57.  Leave  Boston;  Mail  stage;  Company;  Cambridge; 
General  remarks ;  Weston  ;  Beautiful  country  girl ;  Worcester ;  Brookfield  ;  West- 
ern ;  A  contrast ;  Cheerful  company  ;  Handsome  girls ;  Jealousy  ;  Springfield ;  Con- 
necticut river  ;  Sufiield. 

CHAPTER  XVL  p.  92.  MassachusscU ;  Situation;  Extent;  Area;  Face  of  the 
country ;  Wattrs ;  Minerals ;  Soil  and  agriculture :  Climate :  Settlement  and  progress ; 
Civil  divisions  and  population :  Improvements:  Towns:  Roads:  Bridges:  Manufac- 
tures: Commerce:  Stntc  of  society :  Religion:  Literature:  Education:  Government: 
District  of  Maine :  Settlement :  Population  :  Improvements  :  Towns :  Soil :  Com- 
mcrce :   State  of  tociety :   Climate. 

CHAPTER  XVII.  p.  9f5.  Windsor:  Hartford:  Additional  company:  Odd  no- 
tions: Handsome  girls :  Fruit:  Wallingford  :  Church  built  by  the  produce  of  onions  : 
Blooming  girls :  Elegant  country :  Fine  views ;  New  Haven  :  Millford  :  Housato- 
nic  river :   Stamford. 

CHAPTER  XVIIL  p.  98.  Connecticut :  Situation:  Extent:  Area:  Face  of  the 
country:  Hills:  Rivers:  Minerals:  Soil-  Climate:  Settlement  and  progress:  Civil 
divisions  and  population :  Improvements:  Towns:  Roads:  Agriculture  and  produce: 
Manufactures :    Commerce :   State  of  society  :   Education  :   Government. 

CHAPTER  XIX.  p.  102.  Yankee  dialect :  Horseneck  :  Anecdote:  Rye:  York 
Island :  New  York  :  Thomas  Paine :   An  essay. 

CHAPTER  XX.  p,  104,     New   York:  Sitiwtion :    Extent:  Area:  Face  of  the 


111 
III 

tJ: 

ar 


Oil 
ufl 


CONTEN'l'S* 


W;  Markets; 
iVIlow    fever ; 

t river;  HclN 
■rrtj;an«.pt  bay ; 
ice ;   Gfogra- 

Face  of  the 

ition*  and  po- 
nd produce ; 

ation  ;  Leava 
:  Roflccii.(ns 
ul  prospcrts ; 

fs;    Market*: 
itants;   State- 
Hill;  Mystie 
^Vhar\'es  and 

Tea ;  Face  of 
3ttlement  and 
Is ;  Bridges  ; 
Government, 
of  the  coun- 
igrcss ;  Civil 
uce;  Manu- 

I  Cambridge; 

ield ;  West- 

;ficld;  Con- 
Face  of  the 

lid  progress ; 
Manufac- 

lovemmeBt : 
>il :  Coni> 

Oddno- 

|of  onions : 

Housato- 

ceof  the 
ss  :  Civil 
produce: 

[re:  York 

le  of  tlie 


Si»l:   C'liinato:    Settle- 


*)untr)  :  JHounUins :  Lakes  :  llivers :  Minerals :  Springs  : 
uient  and  progress;  Civil  divi:siun«  and  [wpulation :  Iini)rovenjfiits  :  ('itits,  towr.s  a«id 
villages:  Roads:  Bridges:  Canals:  Agriculture  and  pro<lucc  .  Muimfacturcs :  Com- 
nu'rce  :   State  of  society :   CJovemment :   State  funds. 

CHAPTER  XXI.  p.  10.».  Leave  New  York  :  Intelligence  of  the  stage  drivers: 
Jersey:  Bcrgou  :  A  swamp:  Hack  insa^-k  river  :  Passaic  river:  N\  wart :  Klizo;  eUi- 
town:  Woo»l!irulge:  ll;iiiton  river:  Brunswick:  Kingston;  IViiiceton :  A  conv- 
nienccmint    Ball:   Music  and  dancing :   Trenton. 

CHAl'TER  XXII.  p.  II'J.  New  Jersey:  Situation:  Extent:  Area:  Face  of 
the  country  ;  Minerals  :  Soil :  Climate  :  Settlement  and  progress  :  Civil  divisions  and 
population:  Improvements;  Towns:  Bonds :  Bridges :  Projoctwl  canal :  Agriculture 
and  produce  :    Manufactures :   Commerce  :    Education  ;    Government. 

CHAl'TER  XXI IL  p.  114.  Trenton  bridge:  Delaware  river:  Residence  of 
general  Moreau  :  Reflections  :  Anncrica  compared  witli  Europe  :  Bristol :  Franklbrd  : 
Philadelphia. 

CHAPTER  XXIV.  p.  116.  Description  of  Philadelphia:  Plan:  Population: 
Buildings  :  Public  buildings  :  State-house :  Markets :  Manufactures  :  Trade ;  State 
of  stKiety  :   Education  :   Societies :    Police :    Remarks  tliereon. 

CHAPTER  XXV.  p.  120.  Floating  bridge :  Water-works:  Remarks  on  filtration. 
Slate  prison  :  Library  :  Remarks  on  libraries  .  Peale's  museum  ;  Schuylkill  bridge  : 
Jaunt  to  the  country :   A  flax  spinning  mill :   Falls  of  Schuylkill :  politics. 

CHAPTER  XXVI. p.  122.  Pennsylvania:  Situation:  Extent:  Area:  Face  of 
the  country  :  Mountains :  Rivers  :  Minerals  ;  Soil :  Climate :  Settlement  and  pro- 
l^ress:  Civil  divisions  and  population:  Improvements:  Cities  and  towns:  Roads: 
Bridges :  Canals  :  Agriculture  and  produce :  Manufactures :  Commerce :  State  of 
society  :    Government. 

CHAl'TER  XXVII.  p.  134.  Land  and  water  stages  :  Delaware  river  :  Country 
•n  its  banks  ;   Newcastle :   Low  marsiiy  lands. 

CHAPTER  XXVIIL  p.  135.  Delaware:  Situation:  Extent;  Area:  Face  of 
thecMUitry:  Rivers:  MincrnU:  Soil:  Climate:  Settlerrert  and  progress:  Civil  dl- 
visioita  and  population  :  Improvements  :  Towns  :  Agriculture  and  produce :  Manu- 
litctures :  Conunerce  t  Schools  t  Constitution  and  government. 

CHAPTER  XXIX.  p.  137.  Elk  river:  Chcsapeak  bay:  Extensive  view:  Sus- 
quehaniiah  river  t  Arrive  at  Baltimore :  Numerous  company :  Meet  some  old  fellow- 
travellers:  Market:  Madame  Jerome  Bonaparte  and  ch>'.d :  Coffee-house:  Library: 
Sl)ii)-yards :  Agreeable  company  t  Description  uf  Baltimore :  Public  buildings :  Ma- 
nufactures :  Cunimurce :  Education :    Banks  :  Police. 

CHAPTEU  XXX.  p.  140.  Maryland:  Situation:  Extent:  Area:  Face  of  the 
liouutry :  Mountains :  Ches:ipeak  bay  t  Rivers :  Minerals  :  Soil  t  Climate :  Settlement 
uud  progress  :  Civil  divisions  and  population:  Improvements;  Cities  and  towns:  A- 
griculturc  and  produce :  Manufactures:    Commerce:   Education:    GovernmenL 

CHAPTER  XXXI.  p.  143.  Leave  Baltimore:  Patapsco  creek}  Bladensburg; 
■\Vasliiiigton  ;  Capitol;   Capitol  hill;  Superb  view. 

I  HAPTKU  XXXn.  p.  145»  Wasltingtoa ;  TrcBsury;  Post-office;  Capitol; 
Uurracks;  Rtmaiks  on  the  army;  Navy-yard j  Georgetown;  Potomac  river;  Road 
I'aid  out  by  congress. 

CHAPTER  XXXIII.  p.  148.  Wait  on  Mr.  Jefferson ;  ConverviUon  ;  NoUce  of 
American  cgnr.merci'l  cities;  Climate  and  Se*ion  ;  Epidemic  >icktuss;-  Yeili.wxivtr ; 


k 


\-i 


n 


\¥ 


t 


xti 


CONTENTS. 


r«iii«s*t  csuf  ;  Roods ;  Internal  improvvmenu  ;    Manuraoturci ;    S«ntiinciiu  r«;)Btivf> 
to  Mr.  Fox. 

CIIArTEU  XXXIV.  p.  152.  l)i*itrtct  of  Columbia ;  Extent;  SituaUon;  Face 
of  llie  country  ;  Soil;  Climate;  Divisionft;  Improvementit ;  Description  of  Witshing- 
lon  city  :  I'luii ;  Uiiiliiinfni ;  Public  buildingH  ;  Markets;  .'Manufactures;  State  of  t>(>- 
viety ;  Police ;  General  rcniarks  on  British  and  Froneh  influence ;  Probability  of 
uii  uiiiicnhlo  .idjdstmint  of  the  difTorenccs  with   Ilritain;   Alexandria. 

CII.M'TEU  XX\V.  p.  1,".  Leave  Alexandria;  ()ccti«pilian  creek;  Agreeable 
company;  Art  public;  Sonj^s  and  stories;  Dumfries;  Prcderickhburg  ;  llap|)ahan> 
nock  river;  Mottiipoiiy  river ;  Painunky  rirer;  York  river;  York;  Hanover  court- 
bouse;  llicliinond  ;  JiiiiK's  river;  Navigation;  Canal;  .'\])painatto;t  river)  Petersburg; 
A;<."ei'"ib!e  cirnpany  ;   Noltawjy  river;   Mehurrin  river. 

CIIAPTKl'.  XXXVl.  |.  J'M.  Virginia;  JefFersoH's  N.itcs;  Boundaries;  Extent; 
Area;  Face  of  the  co. miry ;  Mountains;  Rivers;  Passage  of  the  Potomac  through 
the  Jlounlains ;  Cirxades; ;  Ciive^ ;  Blowing  cave;  Natural  bridge;  Alinerals ;  Soil; 
Climate;  Settlement  and  progress;  (!ivil  divisions  and  popuLuion;  Towns;  Roads; 
Navigation;  Architecture;  Ai;riculture  and  produce;  Mauafactures ;  (commerce; 
State  of  society  ;  Colleges ;  Education  ;  Religion  ;  Government ;  Extracts  from  Mr 
Jt'lferson's  Notes;  On  governmcut ;  0«  the  importation  of  foreigners;  On  nianufac 
tures  agriculture,  and  connnerce. 

CHAPTER  XXXVII.  p.  183.  Roanoke  river;  Warrcnton;  Tar  river  ;  Nusc 
river ;  R.ileigh ;  Dismal  country  ;  Black  river ;  Cape  Fear  ;  Fayetteville  ;  I.umber- 
ton  ;   An  accident }  Sm  im  the  horses  and  stage. 

CHAPTER  XXXVIII.  p.  1^7.  Noith  Carolina;  Situation;  Extent;  Area; 
I'ace  of  the  country ;  Mo'citains;  Rivers;  Minerals;  Soil;  Climate;  Settlement  and 
progress;  Civil  divisions  and  populations;  Improvements;  Towns;  Roads;  Agricul- 
ture and  produce :  Manufactures  and  commerce;  State  of  society  ;  Government. 

CHAPTER  XXXIX.  p.  190.  Flat  country;  Bad  roads;  Methodist  church; 
Swimming  creek;  Little  Pedee  river;  Altercation  with  the  driver;  Re«d]r  creek; 
Slaple  swamp  ;  Great  I'edee  river ;  A  breakfast ;  Lynche's  creek ;  Blackmingo  creek  ^ 
AVilton;  An  agreeable  Irishman  ;  Fever  and  ague  ;  A  dinner;  Black  river;  An  old 
ft  lend;  Georgetown;  Culture  of  rice ;  A  causeway;  Santcc  river;  View  rf  the  At- 
lantic ocean  ;  Arrive  at  Charleston. 

CHAPTER  XL.  p.  1%'.  A  iMditician;  A  fever;  Sudden  change  of  weather; 
"Description  of  (Charleston. 

CHAPTER  XLI.  p.  199.  South  Carolina;  Situation;  Extent;  Area;  Face  of 
tiie  country;  Iliils;  Rivers;  Minerals;  Soil;  Climate;  .Settlement  and  progress; 
Civil  divisions  and  population ;  Improvements ;  Towns ;  Agriculture  and  produce ; 
Manufactures ;  Commerce ;  State  of  society ;  Education ;  Government. 

CHAPTER  XLII.  p.  204.  Passage  to  Savannah  by  sea;  I'ybee  light-hOuse ; 
fiavannah;  Death  and  character  of  a  friend;  Hard  labour;  Flattering  pros]5ects;  A 
new  connection;  Prepare  to  embark  for  Europe. 

CHAPTER  XLIILp.  206.  Georgia;  Situation;  Extent;  Ares;  Face  of  the 
country;  Mountains;  Rivers;  Soil  and  Climate;  Settlement  and  progress;  Civil 
divisions  and  population  ;  Towns ;  Agriculture  and  produce ;  Education ;  Reflections 
un  that  subject ;  Religion;  GovernmcnC  ^ 

CHAPTER  XLI V  p.  210.  Embark  for  Europe;  Fellow  passengers ;  Detained 
in  the  river ;  A  fine  breeze  ;  Fast  sailing  ;  A  sloop  of  war ;  A  frigate ;  Sea  diversions ; 
Cape  Clear ;  An  Irish  pilot  boat ;  Cove  of  Cork  ;  Tuscar ;  Skerrics-light ;    Ltrerpo9$ 


CONTENTS. 


XVll 


timctiu   rchitivf*             1 

Situation;   Face 

on  of  Washing' 

es;  State  oTiio- 

Probobility  ot 

cek;   Agreeabltt          9 

'8  i  lUpiiahan-          fl 

Hanover  court- 

i'r>  Petersburg; 

laritis;  Extent; 

)tomac  through 

Minerals;  Soil; 

rowas  ;   Roads ; 

s ;   Commerce  j 

racts  from    Mr 

;   On  nianufac 

ar  river ;  Nuse 

fille  ;  Lumber- 

Eitent;  Area; 

Settlement  and 

oads;  Agricul-                1 

kcrnment.                          '^ 

liodist  church; 

Ke«djr  creek ; 

cmingo  creek  ; 

river;  An  old 

iewrftheAt- 

!  of  weatlier;               "^ 

Lrea  ;  Face  of               % 

md  progress;               I 

ind   produce;               1 

light-hfluse ;              1 

prosjiects;  A              1 

Face  of  the              1 

ogress;  Civil                1 

;  Reflections             m 

s;  Detained            "^ 

a  dirersions ;             M 

i    Liverpo**             S 

pilot  boat;  Haadwinda;   A  gal*}   Uojlt  Uk*;    A  cftvalMd*;  An  ignorant  guide  j 
Arrive  in  L/verpool. 

CHAPTER  XLV.  p.  S14.  Change  of  rouncib  in  Britain  ;  Probable  eObct  on  the 
American  relations ;  New  political  doctrines ;  Conuaercial  arrangement ;  Information 
as  to  the  late  election  ;  Political  discussions ;  Chairing  the  members ;  Political  motivei; 
An  intelligent  Liverpool  freeman. 

CHAPTER  XLVI.  p.  917.  Set  out  for  Glasgow ;  Ormskirk  ;  Preston ;  Lancas- 
tor;  Conversation  witli  a  London  mtrchant;  Kemlal;  Shap  fells;  Geese  grazing; 
Fenrith;  Thriving  farms;  Carlisle;  Manufactures;  Longton ;  Scotland;  Extensive 
view ;  Gretna  green  ;  Laws  of  marriage  in  Scotland ;  Rough  road ;  Lockcrby ;  Motr«l ; 
Cold  weather ;  Sources  of  the  Clyde ;  Scottish  dialect ;  Hamilton ;  Glasgow. 

CHAPTER  XLVIL  p.  Sai.  Journey  to  England;  Preston;  Manchester;  Li- 
verpool ;  Warrington ;  Prescott ;  Gilead  hall ;  Commercial  arrangemenu ;  Manclius- 
ter ;  Antiquity ;  Extent ;  Manufactures ;  Improved  steam  engine ;  Cotton  mills ;  Ma- 
nufactures for  America;  Buy;  Rochdale;  Halifax;  Leeds;  Northallerton; 
Durhun :  River  Wear ;  Extensive  views  ;  Reflections ;  Newcastle  coal  tradv ;  ^f or- 
peth;  Alnwick;  Magnificent  Castle ;  German  ocean;  Berwick;  Dunbar;  Klegimi 
view;  Edinburgh;  Singular  situation ;  Arthur's  seat ;  Salisbury  Craigs ;  Castle  ;Cm1« 
ton  bill;  Lofty  houses  $  New  town;  Elegant  buildings ;  Bridges;  Leith  ;  Adjacent 
country ;  Courts  of  Law ;  Nobility  and  gentry  of  Scotland ;  Education  ;  State  of  -M' 
ciety ;  Rapid  travelling ;  Arrive  at  Glasgow. 

CHAPTER  XLVIILp.  226.  Plans  of  the  new  ministry;  Expedition  to  Den- 
mark ;  Orders  in  council ;  Consequences ;  Journey  to  the  east  country  ;  Cumbernauld ;  ' 
Forth  and  Clyde  canal ;  Stirling ;  Dumblane ;  River  Ern  ;  CrielT;  Methven  Parish  ;' 
Face  of  the  country ;  River  Almond  ;  Soil ;  Heritors ;  Population  ;  Occupations  ; 
Farms;  Miniiter;  Scceders;  Schoolmaster;  System  of  ed  ucation  ;  Church;  Baptism  ^ 
Seceder  church ;  Calvinism ;  Promiscuous  dancing  ;  Scottish  Music  and  dancing  ^ 
Perth  ;  Manufactures  ;  Fisheries ;  Education  ;  Return  to  Glasgow. 

CHAPTER  XLIX.  p.  231.  Another  journey  to  the  east  country  ;  Edinburgh  ; 
Firth  of  Forth ;  Kingliorn ;  Kirkaldy  ;  Cupar  ;  A  garrulous  plasterer ;  Fine  vie>«  ; 
F'irth  of  Tay ;  Dundee ;  Aughtermoucbty ;  Falkland  Palace  :  Lomond  hills :  Mine- 
rals :   Edinburgh :   Glasgow. 

CHAPTER  L.  p.  236.  Effects  of  the  orders  m  council:  Jaunt  to  Edinburgh-. 
Celebration  of  Mr.  Fox's  birth-day  :  Toasts  :  Lord  Melville :  Death  of  Sir  John  Moore  . 
Cold  weather :   Return  to  Glasgow. 

CHAPTER  LI.  p.  238.  Ji.urney  to  Ireland  .  Kilmarnock ;  Ayr :  Dismal  night . 
Cirvan:  Lodi  Ryan  :  Port  Patrick  :  Violent  weather  :  Head  winds:  A  gale:  Re- 
turn to  port:  A  fair  wind:  Ireland:  Ii<dfast :  Ilillsbijrnugh  :  Banbridge:  Diindnim 
bay;  A  shipwreck  :  Newry  :  A  debate  :  Banbridge:  Dromore:  Hillvborough  ;  Li<i- 
biurn  :  Belfast:  Return  to  Newry  :  Mum  orous  hobtler :  Newc:«stle:  An  lri>h  family : 
Whist  parties ;  Anecdotes :  Irish  linen  trade  :  Brazil  trade  :  '  Fritiid«.  iVoni  Belfast : 
Ballynahinch :  Medicinal  springs :  Hospitality  of  an  old  Jri'»hw«nian  :  Counsellor 
Trotter,  late  Mr.  Fox's  private  secretary. 

CHAPTER  LI  I.  p.  248.  Prepare  to  leave  Ireland  :  Dow  npalrick :  Strangford  : 
Amazing  rapid  tide :  Portafcrry :  Donaghadee  :  Reflections  on  leaving  Ireland  :  Port 
Patrick  :  Very  distant  view  :  Weat  coast  of  Scotland :  Burns'  birth-place :  Ayr  ; 
Glasgow.  '  , 

CHAPTER  LIII.  p.  2J0.  Orders  in  council  withdrawn  :  Conduct  of  the  ship- 
ping ioterwt ;  Paper  blockade ;  Views  in  political  economy:    Piepare  to  esnbark  fc? 


Li!! 


H 


XVill  CONTENTS. 

Amvi'irit:    r.ilinhiirgh  .    Dundep:   Carliale:   Mam-hestttr :    I.ccdii:   ShaOiald :    Ntitttnf 
liAii)  .    I.undoii :   Naiixlinll  gnrtlen^  t   Sin)(iil;ir  iM'curr«ncr>. 

t  II  An  KH  M  V.  |>.  ; '•  I.  I.i'ftvu  Lniuinn  :  Oxfontt  Dirmitif^liani  >  Mincrnliifcy  i 
Alirt^vHlMirv  I  v'h>  .K-ri  I.iveqNmlt  Iti-HociitinN  nn  tlitiiitiialion  of  Knglami mid  America, 
niAl' IK  II  1,\'.  |>. 'J.'rt.  KnK''C'' •  P'^^'l?^'  Tor  Amorita  liy  the  Pnoific  :  fH^Mit- 
tft'THt  A  ililcniiniii  Irish  litMttim'ii :  Piuifit- sails  t  (ape  Clean  1  lt>ad  windn :  Sliip  runa 
mil  iif  llic  liiiv/i' ;  llaiik>  of  Ni-wCoiiiuilaiul  >  Oulf  Hireani :  Lunar  tibM-rvatioiiN :  Sandf 
IIiKik  ;   |i)riiini.iii'<ii  t'lom  thi'  |>ilot  i  (liinrantiiip  gruiiiut:  Ariivo  in  Nr«f  Y«rk. 

(  IIM'IKH  I. VI.  )'.  U60.  Jimrnry  tu  Tliilaik-lphia  i  ('(immcrrial  iliiicuaaiunK  i 
Ni-[;i>ti.ilion  witli  Hrituin  hruke  olFi  ranMigu  tu  Suvannah  :  i'.irccts  of  tliv  »tu|ipagc  of 
the  foii'i);ii  iiHilf. 

C.IIAl'lKIt  I, \  II.  p. '.'♦>'?.  Jmirnry  up  the  rminlry;  LnitisvilkM  Upper  rouniryt 
Opri'cl.i  liver  :  .Spuria  j  Doiiu-Jttio  maniifactiirw  t  Grt-ensbury  i  Oconee  river  :  Appit> 
lii"h>  nver;  N»vv  piirt-hasf;  Mount  Vernon;  Mactiwn;  GnenKtmrg;  An  alarm;  lii- 
ip  it)  uhellitr  the  Minks  r.in  organise  a  plot  to  dentroy  the  while  people  in  the  aouthern 
MuU".;  WaOiiiigton  ;  Itnys  nii'ls  ;  A  m.inufvMtory  ;  folunihia  C'ourl-liou»e  ;  Au^^ustB  ; 
An  "ill  fi lend  ;  UiehmoiiH  Nprinfts;  ^VayneAl)orollgh  ;  Great  revoluiiun  in  cominercc  ; 
Cotldii  muiniCiiioric-  ;  l'rul>ahle  conwquences  of  the  ctimmercial  rivoltitien. 

illAl'TKK  I.VHI.  p. 'Jiifl.  TaMUige  to  Charleston  ;  Afirver:  Sullivan't  T<iland  ; 
I'iiKsitge  lo  Ntw  Vork  ;  Head  winds;  A  gnle  ;  A  fair  wind  :  Arrive  ia  New  York  ; 
(I'lebration  of  the  annivcrt4(i-y  uf  independence;  I^ng  island  ;  Jamaica;  Fine  view: 
Nowlon;  Tniit ;  Jounu-y  to  Philadelphia;  A  inerr>  jwtrty ;  A  bloody  nose;  Ancccen- 
irii  pronihir;  A  shtping  lit;  Loss  of  two  liaf  ,  Keturn  by  tbc  steam-lxiat ;  Staleii 
Island;  (^urariiine  ground  ;  Agreeal)le  parties ;  Importanceof  temperance  in  religious 
Hnd  politii-al  discussions,  and  of  avoiding  piirsoiiul  abuse. 

I.I1>  r  TEU  LI  X.  p.  272.  Residence  in  New  York  ;  Ncgociations  ;  Political  views  ; 
Triigrtss  of  .\iiic'rican  manufactures;  All  hope  of  a  beneficial  trade  with  Britain  at 
an  end. 

en  .\PTI2K  LX.  p.  270.  Reflection*  on  agriculture  ;  Plan  of  publishing  travels  ; 
Projected  tour  to  llw;  western  country:  Set  out  for  Iliiladelphin :  General  infonnation  . 
Gic.il  iiHrmsc  i.f  the  city  :  So'it ty of artibts-.  Institution  for  engraving  bank-notes ;  .Set 
«)ul  foi  Wiishiii^ton;  1  )eluware  river :  Ncwcasile:  Fteiichtown  :  Ualtimore:  Washington. 
CIIAl''rr.U  lAI.  p. 'J8f;.  interview  with  the  secretary  of  the  treasury  :  Prelinii- 
iiury  iu(|uiries  li.fore  silting  out  on  ri  lour  to  the  wcstwrn  country  :  Wait  on  Mr.  Madi- 
son •  Coinoi-sntion  on  vuiioiis- topic:  Washington  city  :  r>altun<>i-e  :  Havre-dc-Grace 
SusqiielKinnah  river :    Philadelphia:    New  York. 

(  JI  AP  J  Kll  L\  1 1,  p. '2i)l.    Long  Isliiud  ;   Route  of  TrnvclH  r  Inquires  to  be  made 
during  llii   journey:     Leave  New    York:    Steam-boat;    Fortitiotioiis :    Staten  Island 
Kills  :    Newail;  bay  :  Elizahctlilown  point :    Amhoy  •   Fisheries  •    Uuiiton  river  •   lVun>- 
wick  :    Princeton  :    Truiton  ;   Oveilurn  of  the  stage  :    Bordent«iwn  ;    Fine  view  :    Dt»l- 
aware  rivei  ;    Uristol :    Hurlinnton  :    I'(>int-no-puiut :    I'hiL'idelphia. 

CHAPTER  LXIII.  p.  L'!>J.  Pitfsburg  sta-re:  Fine  horses  :  Buck  tavern  :  Riifi 
valley:  Downiiigstown  ;  Gap  hill :  Brandywine  creek :  Rich  country:  Lancaster; 
tliMbetlitowH :  Conewago  hills  :  Middleton  ;  Banks  of  the  Susquebaanoh  :  llarri'- 
Uurgli :  ^  ross  tlie  Susquebannah  :  Carlisle  :  View  of  tltc  mountains  :  Shippensburg  ; 
I'hambursburg. 

CHAPTER  LSI V.  p.  299.  General  iidbrmation :  Chambersburg ;  Limestone 
valley :  Fellow  travellers  :  Extensive  view  :  Curious  petrifaction  :  Conecochcague 
truck :  Atcend  tha  Nnittt  mountatus :   Mod'i  of  passing  waggons:  Aa  old  hag:   A 


I 


'I 
ill 

l>< 
(\ 

*'1 
i'1 


COKTK.NTS. 


six 


n«Ul:    N.Xtlnjf 

I!  MinomlitKy t 
ttdand  America, 
Vide:  Th^mii- 
'Indn:  SliipruiiR 
rvdtiiiiiN:  Sandy 
f«»  Vwk. 
iiil  (liiicuwonK  i 
ihv  ttuiipitgc  of 

Upper  rounfry  j 
'I-  river:  Appit. 
An  alann  ;  in. 
in  tlic  iiouthem 
lune;  Augusta; 
1  in  comiDvrcc  ; 
tion. 
Ilivan't  Tslaiid  ; 

ia  \cw  York  ; 

i  Unc  viewi 
M«;  Anrcren- 
n-boat;  Suien 
nee  in  religious 

'oliticnl  views ; 
with  Britain  at 

ishing  travels ; 
1  infunnation  ; 
ink -notes;  Set 
Washington. 

ry  :  I'relinii. 
on  Mr.  Miuii- 

re-dc-Graco 

>^s  to  l»c  nmde 
'fntvH  IslaiiJ 
ivcr  •   IVun,- 
\io\v:    Det- 

tavern  :  Ri<  h 
Lancaster ; 
lah  :  Harri«- 
lippenstiurg  : 

Limestone 
•neccflicagui- 
old  liag :   A 


i 


Oeinun  f  itnily  J  ElfUMfl)  variegatetl  vivw  :  MConncNtown  ;  TTiinling  ;  Scruli  liill  ; 
Sidling  hill;  Sublime  vi«'w  ;  Jiyiction  iT  nmilo  ;  lUjf**  hill  ;  Juniata  livrr ;  roinuntic 
)i«tik<;  riiain  liridgv ;  Singular  iur*»*ity;  Dl  KNiy  run;  Hot  waivr  wjr ;  i'.e'ldjnl ; 
Ucdfurd  npring^ 

CIIAl'TtU  LXV,  p.  "JO*.  A  PfHoburg  company;  Valiial.li*  mills;  Allfgany 
inminlAinii ;  Tavern  on  iii>  top;  SuUliU'f  >iiws  ;  lU-tiiitions ;  l\m|ii'riiti  iliiiuU} 
Soincni-I  ;  Itt-piiKtve  landloni ,  Oliliging  postiiia<)(t-*  j  Ociunil  int'orinatiiMi  ^  Auei- 
ilote*  i  Laurel  hill  ;   Chesiniit  ridge. 

CII.AI'TKK  L\  VI.  p,  .109.  Weiti-rn  country  ;  8;ilt  spring  ;  Coitl  miiu- ;  Cireon*- 
burg;  'i'lirtlf  rrevk  ;  A  vvundcri'ul  tree;  llriulilork's  dofrat ;  A  iifautit'u!  foin.ili' ; 
rtom-ral  rcuiarks  on  the  muunUius ;  Ui-ptik'Sj  liicreu>v  d  ^lietpuiui  wool;  Ou  iIim 
u«c  of  spirituous  litjuors;  i'rejuJice  ;  Eipiure  of  truveltiiig  ;  Iwportance  of  a  turn* 
pikv  roaiL 

CnAriKU  LXVII.  p.  314.  riiuliiirg  ;  Buildin;^'*;  Popiiluti.m  ;  Tublii  buiUU 
ing<;  ManufacturiXt;  I'rofessions ;  I'rici'  of  Inliour  ;  \'iiliu>  ot'  uianuruclurt'K  ;  V.\. 
ports;  .Maniir.ictures  tliat  might  bo  establi'tlieil;  Kx|ieMi'e  of  living,  i  oinpan-d  ^^itU  llie 
price  of  lalxinr  ;  S'ato  of  wxivty  ;  IViiiuli*  educitioii  ;  ISfi)iioiig.)lu>U  and  Atli';;;ii)y 
rivers:  Industry  of  the  inlialiitant'^ ;  Grant's  hill .  (iiiiss-woikv ;  l'utti>rii.'s  ;  Stiuiii  ljo.it  . 
An  ccllcsii«^ticaI  trial ;   IleflM'tiuni  on  ri-ligious  froedoin, 

CIIAl'TEIl  LXVIII.  p.  T-'O.  Journey  to  Hnrni(my  ;  Cros*  ilic  AUegfiny  rivor  ; 
Hough  rood  ;  Plains;  Remarks  on  tl;e  toiintry  ;  llunnony;  Origin  and  progrt-.s  of 
the  society;  Innkeeper;  Doctor;  ^^r.  llapp  ;  Sliee[)  ami  slu'pliurds ;  i\Iaiiiir:ic!iiri'-i  ; 
Tradesmen;  Dog  lilowing  the  bellows;  '  Cianarieii;  Oitlmnl  j  Drew  house  ;  Slore- 
bouiies  ;  Loliyrinth  ;  Hotaiiic  garden  ;  Div  no  service  ;  Hand  of  music  ;  Watchmen  : 
%ineyards;  Mills  and  machinery  ;  Fertile  valley;  A  vill.igc ;  llrick-works  ;  IJurlil 
ground;  Anecdote;  Uce-hives  ;  Diiinesiii:  economy;  Udiffion  ;  Kducaiioii  ;  Mori- 
lity;  Stock  and  future  prospects  of  the  society  j  Farewell  address;  Ztlioiiople  ;  He- 
turn  to  Pittslnirg  ;  General  remarks. 

CHArTini  LXIX.  p.  So'l.  Prepare  to  de:icen. I  the  Ohio;  DidVrcnt  craft  np,.ii 
it!  An  original  genius;  .V  skill' an  I  pro\  isions ;  Ohio  river;  'I'liitk  fog;  A  ripple; 
Loss  of  a  ham;  Eflccts  of  u  flood;  A  company  of  Indians;  Denver;  An  Indian 
boatman;  Love  of  wliiskcy  ;  Georgetown;  A  dinner;  Sleuheiiville ;  Stttlbenville 
district. 

CH  APfEIl  LXX.  p.  339.  Handsome  plunUtion  and  peach  orchard;  General  in- 
formation; Charleston;  A  spiritual  exphrnation  ;  Wheeling;  Uetlection:i  on  slavery  • 
Tarrying  slaves  to  market ;  A  drunken  Indian;  General  information  ;  Long  reach; 
J'inc  views ;   A  peach  orchard  ;   A  wonderful  fall  discovered  by  Mr.  Ashe ;   Marietta. 

CHAPTER  LXXI.  p.  3'14.  Marietta;  Commerce;  Steam-mill  building  ;  Pio- 
bable  inortnsc  of  iiiauufactures ;  Fine  views;  Indian  mounds;  Nu\i'fation  of  the 
Ohio  and  Muskingum ;   Ohio  company's  purchase  j  Marietta  district. 

CHAPTER  LXXil.  p.  340.  Keel  boats  ;  Rough  company;  lll.tninrha'iseti'-. 
i«tand ;  Burr's  conspii-acy  ;  Reflections  thereon ;  Bellepre  ;  A  contrast ;  Efllcts  i,/ 
industry;  A  huraoursome  character;  A  floatir»g-niill ;  Irish  emigrants;  An  anecdote; 
A  musician  ;  Lctart's  falls  ;  Head  winds;  Kanhaway  river;  Point  pleasant;  Gal- 
Jiopolis, 

CHAPTER  LXX  III.  p.  3oG.  Whimsical  account  of  the  country;  Leave  Gal- 
liopolis;  Cotton  manufactures;  Account  of  the  early  settler-.;  A  mnuerous  family ; 
A  politician;  Big  Sandy  creek ;  Hospitable  new  married  couple;  A  thriving  fiiuilv 
French  grant  J  tkioto  river;  rortsmuuth  ;    Alexandria;    'iti.^i  of  exiiaerdiuary   uliv 


f^ 


XX 


CONTENTS. 


and  beauty;  Manchester;    Limeitoae;  Augusta;  General  information;  A  hotplta* 
ble  Scotsman ;  Athol  brosc ;  Shantrews ;  Poetry ;  Music ;  Cincinnati. 

CHAPTER  LXXIV.  p.  361.  Cincinnati;  Manufactures  and  mechanics;  Ph>- 
visions ;  Manners  and  momls ;  1.  Times'  purchase;  Cincinnati  district;  Newport; 
Elegant  farm  and  vineyard ;  Captain  Baen ;  General  information. 

CHAPTER  LXXV.  p.  165.  Take  capUin  Baen  passenger;  Descend  th« 
river;  Wretched  tavern ;  Captain  Brown;  A  mammoth  bone;  Extraordinary  orchard; 
Great  Miamj;  Big-bone-lick  creek ;  Accountof  the  mammoth;  Wander  in  the  woods; 
Captain  Hawes* ;  A  dilemma ;  Unwelcome  great-conts ;  Swiss  vineyards  ;  Kentucky 
river ;  Madison ;  Bethlehem ;  Louisville  ;  General  remarks. 

CHAPTER  LXXVI.  377.  Louisville;  Jeffersonville ;  Falls  of  the  Ohio;  Re- 
marks on  the  utility  of  a  canal ;  Commerce  on  the  Ohio  ;  Country  round  the  falls. 

CHAPTER  LXXVII.  p.  381.  Indiana  territory;  Illinois  territory;  North-west 
territory ;  Louisiana  territory ;  Orleans  territory  (now  the  state  of  Louisiana) ;  New 
Orleans ;  Mississippi  territory ;  Mississippi  river ;  Genaral  remarics. 

CHAPTER  LXXyilL  p.  3D6.  Account  of  the  Indian  war;  Leave  Louisville; 
Bear-grass  creek ;  Middleton  ;  Shelby ville ;  Clear  creek ;  Beautiful  country  ;  Benson 
creek;  Romantic  valley;  Frankfort;  State-house;  Penitentiary;  Hemp  manufac- 
tures; Kentucky  river;  State  of  Society;  Country  round  Frankfort;  Versailles: 
Leautiful  country  :  Lexington. 

CHAPTER  LXXIX.  p.  401.  Lexington:  Market:  Rope-walks;  Cotton  bag- 
ging  factory  :  Theatre :  Original  settlement :  Population  :  Public  buildings :  Semi- 
nary :  Library  :  Steam-mill  t  Manufactures :  Prices :  State  of  society :  Police  : 
Country  round :  Remarks  on  the  climate. 

CHAPTER  LXXX.  p.  405.  Tennessee:  Situation:  Extent:  Area:  Face  of 
the  country :  Rivers :  Mountains :  Minerals :  Soil :  Climate :  Settlement  and  pro- 
gress ;  Civil  divisions  and  population :  Towns :  Agriculture  :  Manufactures  :  Ccm- 
inerce :  State  of  society  :   Government. 

CHAPTER  LXXXL  p.  408.  Leave  Lexington  :  Paris:  Country  round:  Mil- 
Icrsburg  :   Blue  Lick:    Remarks  on  Mr.  Ashe ;    iVashingtOH ;   Limestone. 

CHAPTER  LXXXIL  p.  411.  Kentucky:  Situation:  Extent:  Area:  Face  of 
the  couutry  :  Rivers :  Minerals  :  Soil  r  Climate :  Settlement  and  progress :  Civil 
<livisions  and  population :  Improvements:  Towns:  Agriculture:  Govcrmuent:  Stat* 
of  society  :   Apostrophe  to  Liberty ;   Land-titles :  Manners. 

CHAPTER  LXXXIH.  p.  416.  Cross  the  Ohio  river :  Rich  scenery:  An  econo- 
mist :  Eagle  creek  :  A  dinner :  General  information  to  emigrants  :  West  Union  : 
Domestic  manufactures  :  Brush  creek  :  Sinking  springs  s  Bainbridgc  :  Geueral  in- 
formation :   Paint  creek  :   Chillicothe. 

CHAPTER  LXXXIV.  p.  423.     Chillicothe:    Public  buildings:   Manufactures 
Provisions  :   Inhabitants :   Chillicothe  district :   Virginia  military  lands. 

CHAPTER  LXXXV.  p.  427.  Cross  tlie  Scioto  river  :  Kenneconek  creek  • 
Plains :  Tarlton  :  Clear  creek :  Hockhocking  river :  New  Lancaster :  Country 
round ;  Elegant  bouse :  Jonathan  creek :  Springfield :  Crpss  the  Muskingum ; 
Zanesville. 

CHAPTER  LXXXVL  p.  430.  General  remarks:  Description  of  Zanesvilla; 
Coinuieucement  of  settlement :  Professions  :  Markets ;  Manufactures  t  Coumierce : 
State  of  society  :  Education  :  Police  :  Zanesville  district :  Muskingum  river :  Tim- 
ber t  Climate  :  Popul^^'on  •  An  election :  Agriculture :  Price  of  lauds :  Situation 
for  manufactures :  Remarks  en  manufactures. 


m 


CONTENTS. 


XXl 


>n;  A  hoapltfl. 

lechanics;  Fro« 
ictj    Newport; 

Descend  tha 
xlinary  orchard; 
r  in  the  woods; 
rds;  Kentucky 

the  Ohio ;  Re- 
id  the  falls. 
7;  North-west 
luisiana);  New 

ive  Louisville; 
intry  ;  Benson 
emp  manufac- 
i  i    Versailles  : 

;  Cotton  hag- 
[dings :  Semi- 
iety :    Police : 

Area :  Face  of 
ent  and  pro- 
ctures :  CmH" 


round  :   Mil- 

e. 

rea:   Face  of 

ogress:   Civil 

luuent:  Stat* 


An  t'cono- 
Vcst  Union  : 
Geueral   in- 

anufactures 

nek  creek  • 
Country 
[uskingum  ; 

Zanesvilla ; 
i^oinuierce : 
iver :  Tim- 
Situation 


m 


CHAPTER  LXXXVIT.  p.  446.  Leave  Zanesville :  Wakatomika  creek:  Sheep 
farming  -.  A  methodist  preacher :  Fertile  bottoms :  Coshocton :  A  breakfast ;  Now- 
Comer's  town  :  Yankee  town  :  Gnadenhutten :  Schocnbrun  :  New  Philadelphia  : 
Travelling  companions  :  Beautiful  country :  Dutch  tavern :  Sandy  creek :  Nim- 
shillen  creek  :    Canton. 

CHAPTER  LXXXVIIL  p.  445.  Canton;  Canton  district;  Remarks  on  the 
weather  :  A  squall :  A  German  family :  Squatters  :  Reflections :  Cross  the  Tusca- 
rawa :  Connecticut  reserve :  Dividing  ridge  between  the  northern  and  southern  wa- 
ters- A  Connecticut  family :  Cayahoga  ri^er :  Account  of  Hudson:  Portage-path: 
Mud  creek :  Bad  road  :  Travelling  family :  A  salt  hauler :  Tinker's  creek  :  Wretch- 
ed accsmmodatioas :  Dull  scenery  :  Lake  Erie :  Sublime  view. 

CHAPTER  LXXXIX.  p.  453.     General  reflections ;  Travelling  in  quest  of   new 
lands  :   Outlet  of  Cayahoga  river :    Sickness :  A  cure   suggested  ;   Projected  eanal : 
Descriptioi.  of  Cleveland:  Lake  shore:  Bocky  river  t  A  gale:    A  storm. 

CHAPTER  XC.  p.  457.  Connecticut  reservation :  Claim  of  Connecticut :  Man- 
ners of  the  inhabitants  :  Their  aversion  to  law  :  Warren :  Lake  Erie :  Navigation  of 
♦he  lakes :  Principal  ports  :  Number  of  vessels  on  both  sides ;  British  armed  vessels : 
Extent  of  inland  navigation  :  General  information  ;  Black  river ;  Vermilion  river  -. 
Huron  river:   Sandusky  river  and  bay  :   Miami  ef  the  lakes  :    Road  to  Detroit. 

CHAPTER  XCL  p.  462.  Michigan  territory:  Bounderies ;  Extent:  Aren : 
Face  of  the  country :  Soil :  Climate  :  Settlement  and  progress  :  Population :  Go  • 
vernment. 

CHAPTER  XCIL  p.  463.  Leave  Cleveland:  Chagrin  river:  A  good  notion: 
An  intended  town  :  A  Scottish  store-keeper :  Gmnd  river :  Lake  shore :  Beautiful 
prospect :  Asbtabula  river :  A  New- Connecticut  justice  court :  Eloquent  pleadings : 
A  convivial  party :  Son^s  and  storief. :  Merit  of  Scottish  music :  An  old  song : 
Fishes  blown  on  b.iore  ■.    Rehc-tior;;  on  speculation ;   Conneought  river. 

CHAPTER  XCIIL  p.  470.  State  of  Ohio:  Boundaries:  Extent:  Area:  Face 
of  the  country :  Rivers :  Soil :  Climate  :  Minerals :  Settlement  and  progress :  Sta- 
tistical table:  Reflections  on  population;  Improvements:  Towns:  Roads^:  State  of 
society  :  constitution  *  jurisprudence :    Military  :   Salutary  laws  :    Shakers. 

CHAPTER  X  CIV.  p.  480.  Banks  of  Lake  Erie:  Elk  creek:  Walnut  crock; 
Erie  ;  Remaiks  on  canal  navigation. 

CHAPTER  XCV.  p.  482.  Leave  Eric;  Effects  of  a  tornado ;  New  settlers  ; 
Travellers;  Canadaway;  Cataragus;  Cataragus  creek;  Indian  reserve;  Travelhng 
family  ;  Rocks  and  precipices  5  Remarkable  stratum ;  Quicksands ;  Dangerous  pas- 
sage; Masses  of  limestone;  Buffalo;  Buffalo  creek;  Indian  settlements;  Indian 
speeches. 

CHAPTER  XCVI.  p.  489.  Black  rock;  Upper  Canada;  British  soldiers;  Rich 
settlements ;  Grand  island  ;  Chippaway  ;  Chippaway  creek  ;  Rapids  ;  Falls  of  Nia- 
gara  ;  Sublime  view ;  Particular  examination  of  the  Falls ;  Table  Rock ;  Awful  ca- 
vity under  it ;  Wonderful  scenery  ;  A  brilliant  rainbow. 

CHAPTER  XCVII.  p.  493.  Independence  of  the  Americans ;  Anecdotes;  Bri- 
tish officers ;  A  dutch  settler ;  A  Yankee  ;  Haughtiness  and  pride  of  the  soldiery ; 
Queenstown  ;  Lewistown ;  A  back-woods-man  ;  Niagara  river ;  Lake  Ontario ;  0«t. 
let  of  Niagara  river  ;  Discharge  of  water  ;   General  reflections. 

CHAPTER  XCVIII.  p.  498.  British  possessions  in  North  America;  New- 
foundland; Cape  Breton;  Nova  Scotia;  New  Brunswick;  Lower  Canada;  Quebec; 


XXll 


CONTENTS. 


I    I 

i::; 
i 


Montreal ;  Upper  Canada  ;  York  ;  Newark  ;  Queenstown  j  Kiog»ton  ;  Afalden  ; 
Sanks  of  the  lakes ;  Agriculture  ;  State  of  society  j  Prospect  of  war  with  the  United 
States ;  Sumraar}'  view  of  population,  trade,  &c. 

CHAPTER  XCIX.  p.  503.  Description  of  Lewistown  ;  Ascent  of  Table  Land  ; 
Falls  once  here ;  Description  of  the  river;  Volney's  remarks;  Observations  thereon, 
and  on  Mr.  Sehultz's  reviewers ;  Elegant  view  ;  Devil's-holc ;  Whirlpool ;  Grand 
Niagara  ;  View  of  tlic  Falls  ;  Description  of  the  river  at  the  Falls ;  Prol>able  descent 
tict»cen  the  lakes ;  Strata  under  the  Falb  ;  Mills  and  madiinery ;  Probability  of  a 
large  settlement ;  Account  of  a  boat  and  canue  being  carried  over  the  Falls;  Fort 
Schlosscr ;  Rcmurks  on  canal  navigation  ;  Projected  canal  round  the  Falls. 

CHAPTER  C.  p.  .TOO.  Leave  Fort  Schlosscr  ;  Views  on  the  river;  Tonewanta 
creek  ;  New  road  ;  Great  western  turnpike ;  EUicott's  creek  ;  Price  of  lauds ;  Moving 
families ;  General  information  ;  A  missionary  preacher ;  Tonewanta  creek  ;  Batavia  ; 
II«lland  purchase  ;  Exten* ;  Face  ©f  the  country  ;  Soil ;  I'lan  of  settling  ;  Sute  of 
society;  Roads;  Taverns;  Opinions  on  the  grand  canal;  Price  of  lands ;  Descrip- 
tion of  Batavia  ;   People  best  adapted  to  the  country  ;   General  reflections. 

CHAPTER.  CL  \\  515.  Lt^ve  Batavia;  Rc9ections;  Le  Roy  Account  of  a 
Scottish  settlement  at  Calcflonia ;  Gcncssee  river;  Falls;  Avon;  Ontario  county; 
Fine  views;  Honcoye  lake;  Bloomfield  ;  Pretty  villages;  Canandaigua ;  Betiutiful 
scenery ;  Description  of  the  village ;  General  remarks  ;  A  new  and  beautiful  edition 
of  Yankee  ladies  ;  Education ;  View  round  Canandaigua ;  F'uture  destinies  of  the 
back  woods  ;  Description  of  Ontario  county. 

CHAPTER  CILp.521.  Leave  Canandaigua  ;  A  smoking  scene ;  Reflections  on 
the  use  of  tobacco ;  Geneva;  An  agreeable  friend  ;  A  pleasant  party ;  General  infor- 
mation ;  Description  of  Geneva ;  Seneca  lake ;  Soil  ;  Increase  of  sheep  and  woollen 
manufactures ;  Register  of  the  weather,  and  remarks. 

CHAPTER  CIIL  p.  527.  Leave  Geneva;  Cross  Seneca  river  ;  Cayuga  lake 
and  village  ;  Descripti(^n  cf  Seneca  river ;  Moving  families ;  Aubura  ;  Skeneatelcss  ; 
Onondago  court-house  anc  hollow ;  Description  of  the  salt-works ;  Manlius  Square ; 
Canaserago  hollow  ;  View  of  Oneida  lake  ;  A  false  sign-post ;  Hartford  ;  Patent 
bellows ;  Flourishing  country ;  Utica. 

CHAPTER  CIV.  p.  532.  Remarks  on  tlie  grand  canal;  and  on  foreign  com- 
merce ;  Rapid  progress  of  manufactures ;  Glass ;  Cotton  j  Woollen ;  Iron,  &c. 
Raw  materials ;  Description  of  Utica. 

CHAPTER  CV.  p.  537.  General  remarks;  History  of  the  settlement  of  Sac- 
ket's  Harbour  and  countrj'  round  it ;  Description  of  Sacket's  Harbour  ;  trade ;  Adja- 
cent country ;  State  of  society ;  Anecdote  of  a  farmer  and  a  bear ;  Reflections  ;  Re- 
marks on  inland  navigation  ;  Projected  canal ;  Importance  of  canal  navigation, 

CHAPTER  C  VI.  p.  544.  Leave  Utica;  Cross  the  Mohawk  river;  Herkimer; 
Little  falls;  An  inventory;  Riinaikable  passage;  Charming  views;  East  Canada 
creek ;  Nose  ;  General  information. 

CHAPTER  CVIL  p.  549.  Scenery  on  the  ^lohawk;  Extensive  views  ;  Johns- 
town; Very  extensive  views;  Bruadalbin;  Histoi7  of  tlie  settlement;  Progress; 
Primitive  manners ;  Milton;  A  large  woollen  factory  ;  Ballston  springs;  Analysis 
of  the  waters. 

CHAPTER  CVIIL  p.  554.  Leave  Ballston  ;  Waterford;  Cohoes  falls  ;  Sce- 
nery on  the  Hudson  river  ;  Arrive  at  Albany  ;•  Description  of  the  city;  Markets  ; 
Manufactures;  Coauaerco;  State  of  society ;  and  of  the  weather. 


m 


laJ 

yI 

Gj 

inlj 
pel 

Nj 


CONTENTS. 


xxnv 


on  ;     Maiden  ; 


th  the    United 

f  Table  Land ; 

ations  theresn, 

rJpool ;     Grand 

ohable  descent 

obobility  of  a 

tie  Falls ;  Fort 

lis. 

•  J  Tonewanta 

auds;   Moving 

euk  ;   Batavia ; 

■-: 

lin^  ;   Sute  of 

/' 

nds;  Descrip- 

'  :* 

s. 

4 

Account  of   a 

tario   county  ; 

ua;   Beautiful 

':, 

luliful  edition 

I 

stinies   of  the 

Reflections  on 

'■} 

jeneral  infor- 

p  and  woollen 

Cayuga   lake 

Skcneatelcss  ; 

'V. 

ilius  Square; 

■■' 

ford  ;  Talent 

breign   com- 

1 

J    Iron,    &c. 

"  1 

lent  of  Sac- 

1 

rade;  Adja- 

1 

:clions  ;   He- 

i 

nation. 

'. 

Herkimer  ; 

1 

East  Canada 

1 

vrs  ;  Johns- 

"1 

Progress  ; 

■i 

i ;    Analysis 

■: 

falls  ;  Sce- 

] 

Markets  ; 

M 

CHAPTER  CIX.  p.  557.  Passage  by  steam-boat;  Hudson  ;  Ncwburg  ;  High- 
lands; Stony  Point;  Handsome  seats  ;  Craggy  precip  r;  '."ttiements  on  the  river; 
York  islan<l ;  New  York  ;  Statistical  table  of  the  state. 

CHAPTER  ex.  p.  5f;i.  United  States  ;  Extent;  Arcn  ,  iTuce  of  the  country  ; 
General  tlieory  of  the  climate  ;  Settlement  and  progress;  Statistical  table  exhibiting 
the  extent  of  the  country  ;  Population;  Census  of  the  Uuitetl  States;  &c. ;  General 
infonnation  as  to  slieep,  manufactures  &c. ;  Remarks  on  the  utility  of  a  national 
^'eography  ;  (.ommeiTo  ;  Exports  ;  Imports ;  Progress  of  society  and  national  wealth  j 
National  funds  and  debt :  National  improvements  t  Secretary  of  the  treasury's  report 
on  roads  and  canals  :  J.iues  of  canal  ah.ng  the  coast:  Inland  navigation:  Turnpike 
roads;  Resources  of  the  nation  ;  Plan  for  carrying  on  public  works,  when  tlic  pro- 
spect of  remuneration  is  not  suflicient  to  call  forth  the  exertions  of  individuals  ;  Em- 
liioymctit  for  the  army  in  time  of  peace;  Federal  revenue;  Interruption  of  foreign 
tommerce  ;  Plan  suggested  to  meet  any  falling  ofV in  the  revenue  ;  Duties  on  im- 
ports and  tonnage  ;  Thoughts  ou  a  national  bank  ;  Remaining  revenue  to  be  contri- 
buted by  th"  states  ;  Federal  currency  ;  Table  of  t!ie  weijjht  and  value  of  coins  ;  Ai'- 
\  mintage  of  a  currency  arranged  decimally,  illustrated  by  examples  ;  State  of  society; 
Literature;  Newspapers  printed  in  America ;  Paper  manufactured  in  America  ;  Pub- 
lic libraries ;  Articles  of  confederation ;  Constitution  ;  Conclusion  ;  Register  of  tlie 
weather,  and  table  of  expences. 

APPENDIX.     No.  I,  p,  590.    Of  the  cause  of  tlie  yellow  fever,  and  the  means 
of  preventing  it. 

No.  II.  p.  600.     Letter  to  a  member  of  parliament   on  the  orders   in  council 
and  the  American  trade ;   Extracts  from  Mr.  Brougham's  speech. 

No.  III.  p.  COS.     Remarks  on   the  ScottiJi  peasanti-j  ;    Establishment  of  the 
Glasgow  public  library ;  Regulations. 

No,  IV.  p.  617.     Observations  on  the  trade  between   Britain  and  America. 

No.  V.  p.  620.     Advice  to  Emigrants  to  the  United  States,  by    Clements  Bur- 
leigh, Esq. 
j^o.  Vr.  p.  C'2:'i.     Hints  to  Emigrants,  by  the  Shamrock  society,  New  York. 


I 


II 


<)i: 


4i> 


m 


vn  '-i' .  .^a:■ 


k'. 


TRAVELS 


!i„>. 


''■/y' 


IN 


THE  UNITED  STATES,  &c. 


.■■I  '■ 


'>i>V< 


>t;  >c  .i/,0,. 


■;/v:; 


■AiU.'i 


>i'  ■• 


.   ^         ^   '^^       CHAPTER  I.  ' 

;     ,  GlasgaWi — Greenock, — Savannah,  > 

Having  shipped  my  goods  on  board  the  Warrington,  cap- 
tain Hinkley,  bound  from  Greenock  to  Savannah,  I  set  out 
from  Glasgow  for  Greenock  by  the  stage  coach,  on  Saturday, 
the  8th  of  March,  1806.  There  are  two  roads  from  Glasgow 
to  Greenock,  the  one  direct,  by  Renfrew,  the  other  by  Paisley. 
The  stage  took  the  latter  route,  which  lies  through  a  level,  well- 
cultivated  country,  and  pretty  fertile,  to  Paisley. 

Paisley  is  7  miles  distant  from  Glasgow,  and  is  an  irregularly 
built  town,  the  streets  mostly  narrow,  and   not  very  clean.     It 
contains  upwards  of  30,000  inhabitants ;  and  the  principal  ma- 
nufactures are  fan<iy  muslins  and  threads,  with  silks  and  gauzes. 
The  people  are  very  industrious,  and  there  is  more  elegance  and 
taste  displayed  in  the  fancy  goods  of  that   town  than  in  any 
other  that  I  have  seen.     From  Paisley  towards  Greenock,   the 
country  continues  level  for  two  miles,  and  then  the  road  rises 
for  about  five  miles,  with  a  gradual  ascent,  to  Bishoptown,  where 
there  is  a  very  fine  view.     To  the  west  is  a  full  view  of  the  river 
Clyde,  which   expands   to   the  breadth    of  seven  miles,  having 
Greenock  and  Port  Glasgow  on  its  left  bank,  and  its  borders 
staddcd  with  elegant  villas,  surrounded  by  well  cultivated  fields 
and  plantations.     To  the  north,  is  Dunbarton,  an   irregularly 
built  little  town,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Leven,  and  having 
considerable  manufactures  of  glass.    Near  this  stands  Dunbarton 
castle,  well  known  in  ancient  story,  on  a  singularly  insulated  rock, 
the  evident  effect  of  some  great  eruption  of  the  earth.     To  the 
north  is  the  beautiful  river  Leven,  celebrated  in  verse  by  Smol- 
lett, who  was  bom  on  its  pleasant  banks,  two  miles  above  Dun- 
barton.   The  banks  of  the  river  arc  elegantly  adorned  with  vil- 


V 


I 


S6 


TRAVELS   IN 


las  and  cultivated  fields,  and  there  is  more  machinery  upon  it 
than  any  river  in  the  west  of  Scotland.  This  little  river  is  the 
outlet  of  Loch  Lomond,  a  lake  singularly  beautiful  and  roman- 
tic, on  the  east  side  of  which  stands  Ben  Lomond,  one  of  the 
highest  mountains  in  Scotland;  and  the  view  is  terminated  tv 
north  and  west  by  mountains  innumerable^  the  tops  of  which  artf 
generally  lost  in  the  clouds.     '     '  ■       *  *   ' 

From  the  summit  of  the  eminence  where  this  view  is  seen,  the 
road  proceeds  by  a  winding  descent  to  the  banks  of  the  river, 
and  keeps  close  along  shore  for  five  miles  to  Port  Glasgow,  a 
small  town  containing  about  SdOCt  peopie.-  It  wa)s  intended  to  bo 
a  port  to  Glasgow,  as  its  name  implies,  and  has  a  little  shipping 
trade ;  but  it  is  altogether  eclisped  by  Greenock,  which  possesses 
superior  advantages  as  a  port.  Three  miles  beyond  this  is  Gree- 
nock, and  on  reaching  k^  I  found  that  the  vessel  would  not  sail 
for  several  days. 

Greenock  is  an  irregularly  built  town,  eontatning  about  18,000 
inhabitants,  and  enjoys  a  very  large  portion  of  the  commerce  of  the 
w<»t  of  Scothind,  which  employs  an  extensive  mercantile  capital* 
Besides  the  coasting  and  Irish  trade,  of  which  it  has  a  large  share, 
it  employs  numlerous  shipping  to  Canada,  to  the  West  Indies^ 
uiid  to  the  continent  of  Europe  •,  and  it  is  the  seat  of  nearly  the 
whole  of  the  American  trade  with  Scotland.  There  are  three  or 
four  vessels  in-  the  New-York,  and  as  many  in  the  Charleston 
trade ;  besides  occasional  vessels  for  Boston,  Savannah^  Norfolk, 
&c.  TIms  trade  is  wholly  carriied  on  in  American  vessels ;  and 
tiiey  generally  perform  two  voyages  in  the  year.^  The  country 
found  Greenock  has  a  singular  and  even  romantic  appearance. 
The  Clyde  is  here  seven  miles  broad ;  but  a  few  miles  below, 
it  makes  a  sudden  bend  to  the  souihwordy  and  contracts  to  the 
breadth  of  two  milesi  (Xi  the  opposite  side  is  Hellensburg,  and 
two  miles  bek>w,  on  thh  side,  is  Goiu'Ock,  which-  ore  celebrated 
watering-places,  and  nuich  frequented  by  tine  citizens  of  Glasgow 
in  the  summer  season;  and  an  the  west  is  situated  ^oGeneath,  a 
seat  of  the  duke  of  Argyle.  It  was  lately  burnt  Ucv/n,  but  it  is- 
now  rebuilt  in  an  elegant  style,  and  eommands  a  fine  view  o§ 
the  Firth  and  its  shaping.  The  whole  country  round  rise» 
into  high  lands,  and  the  view  is  terminated  to  the  north  and 
west  by  lofty  mountains. 

i'rom  Uiis  configuration  of  the  country,   connected  with  the 


SCOTLAND. 


S7 


ry  upon  iC 
iver  is  the 
nd  roman- 
)ne  of  the 
minated  tv 
I  which  artf 

s  seen,  the 
the  river, 
jiasgow,  a 
>nded  to  be 
e  shipping 
b  possesses 
is  is  Gree- 
Id  not  sail 

out  18,000 

lerce  of  the 

ile  capitaL 

^rge  share, 

est  In^s^ 

nearly  the 

B  three  or 

harleston 

Norfolk, 

ssels;  and 

e  country 

pearance. 

es  below, 

ts  to  the 

urg,  and 

elcbrated 

Glasgow 

{eneath,  a 

but  it  is- 

view  of 

nd  rise» 

lorth  and 

rith  the 


winds  which  blow  across  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  we  may  account 
for  the  frequent  rains  with  which  this  place,  and  indeed  the  greater 
part  of  the  west  coast  of  Scotland,  is  inundated.  The  wind  blows 
from  the  south-west  for  eight  or  nine  months  in  the  year,  and  is 
particularly  prevalent  in  the  winter  season.  In  its  course  from 
the  warm  latitudes,  over  the  vast  expanse  of  water  in  the  Atlan- 
tic Ocean,  it  is  highly  impregnated  with  vapour;  and,  arriving 
on  jthe  high  lands  on  the  west  of  Scotland,  it  is  suddenly  con- 
densed, and  falls  down  in  torrents  of  rain.  From  these  circum- 
stances, the  winters  are  mild  and  rainy.  There  is  comparatively 
little  snow,  and  it  never  lies  long;  but  i,t  has  been  frequently 
observed  to  rain  for  forty-two  days  successively.  I  cannot  better 
illustrate  this,  th^^  by  relating  an  anecdote  of  an  English  travel- 
ler, and  a  waiter  at  one  of  the  public  inns.  The  traveller  had 
Arrived  there  for  the  first  time.  Qfi  the  morrow,  he  intended  to 
transact  his  business,  but  was  prevented  by  the  rain ;  and  so  suc- 
cessively, for  four  or  five  days.  At  last,  accosting  the  waiter, 
."  What,  my  lad,"  says  he,  does  it  always  rain  here  ?"  **  Q  na," 
^s  the  waiter,  it  sometimes  snawa." 

No  material  occurr^ce  happened  during  py  stay  in  Greenock, 
and  I  went  on  board  the  Warrington,  on  Wednesday,  the  12th 
of  March.  A  Mr.  Ballard,  of  Boston,  was  my  fellow-passenger 
in  the  cabin;  and  ja  Mr.  Miller  and  a  Mr.  M*Kenzie  were  pas- 
sengers in  the  steerage* 

We  set  sail  at  ?  p'clock  in  the  afternopji,  accompanied  by  the 
Factor,  Caldwell,  <?f  New-York ;  but  the  wip4  was  light,  and  we 
made  little  progress,  Both  these  vessels  wejae  very  fast  sailers, 
and  hod  excited  considerable  interest  which  would  sail  best  A- 
mong  others,  I  had  a  $mall  bet  dependii^g  on  the  success  of  our 
vessel.  By  dint  of  towing,  we  had  got  a  little  ahead  of  tlie  Fac- 
tor, and  were  brought  to  and  boarded  by  the  crew  of  the  tender, 
which  was  at  the  Tajl  of  the  Bank,  who  made  a  search  for  Brit- 
ish seamen,  and  conducted  themselves  with  all  the  insolence  of 
arbitrary  power;  but  all  was  found  correct,  and  we  were  suffer? 
pd  to  depart. 

In  the  mean  tim^  a  small  breeze  having  sprung  up,  the  Fac- 
tpr,  feeling  it  first,  came  up  wi^h  us  vpry  fast,  took  the  wind  out 
of  our  sails,  and  fairly  passed  us,  to  the  great  joy  of  the  one 
ship's  (ompany  and  mortification  of  the  other.  We  felt  the 
ttr^eze  ii^  our  turn,  an4  kept  rig^t  astern   of  the  Factor  fifteen 


^i?> 


28 


TRAVELS   ON 


miles,  to  the  Cumbraes,  ivhere  she  hove  to,  to  dischurgc  th« 
pilot,  and  we  passed  her;  and  she  again  passed  us,  while  we  were 
discharging  ours. 

Five  miles  below  Greenock  is  the  Clough  light-house,  where 
the  river  contracts,  and  makes  the  sudden  bend  to  the  soutli  be* 
fore  noticed ;  a  little  beyond  which  it  spreads  out  into  a  spacious 
firth,  and  embosoms  i^everal  islands,  the  chief  of  which  arc  Arran, 
Bute,  and  the  Cumbraes.  It  is  bounded  with  high  lands  on  both 
sides,  and  the  islands  are  generally  rugged  and  lofty.  Arran,  in 
particular,  rise^  into  very  high  mountains.  The  channel  is  very 
safe,  and  is  navigable,  at  all  seasons,  for  vessels  of  any  burden. 

It  was  dark  when  we  discharged  the  pilot,  and  I  retired  to 
rest.  When  I  rose  in  the  morning,  I  found  we  had  passed  the 
island  of  Arran,  and  were  abreast  of  that  singularly  insulated 
rock,  in  the  middle  of  the  channel,  celebrated  in  song  by  the 
favourite  Scottish  bard.  Burns— r 

•*  Meg  was  deaf  as  AUsa  Craig" 

Here  we  had  a  veiy  extensive  view  of  the  Scottish  and  Irish 
coasts.     The  Factor  was  a  few  miles  ahead. 

The  wind  continued  light  and  variable,  so  that  we  did  not 
get  out  of  the  channel  until  the  afternoon,  when  we  passed  the 
Mull  of  Cantyre,  soon  after  which  we  passed  Rathlin  Island; 
and  on  the  morning  of  the  14th,  rre  found  ourselves  in  the  At- 
lantic Ocean,  and  had  a  most  extensive  view  of  the  north-west 
coast  of  Ireland,  and  the  Western  Islands  of  Scotland.  In  the 
afternoon,  we  were  abreast  of  Tory  Island,  from  whence  we 
took  our  departure,  and,  bestowing  my  benediction  on  the  British 
islands,  I  committed  myself  to  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic, 
hoping  for  a  speedy  and  plea$ant  passage,  and  a  safe  arrival  on 
Columbia's  shore. 

The  wind  continued  very  variable,  accompanied  with  cold, 
stormy  weather,  with  rain,  hail,  and  snow,  occasionally,  until 
the  16th,  when  it  got  more  settled.  During  all  this  time,  we 
had  kept  sight  of  the  Factor,  but  she  was  generally  ahead.  We 
now  took  a  fair,  strong  breeze  from  the  eastward,-  at  the  com- 
mencement of  which  the  Factor  was  ahead  fully  twelve  miles, 
and  the  ships  had  now  a  good  opportunity  for  trying  their  full 
speed.  We  soon  found  that  we  gained  upon  the  Factor  very  fast, 
and  finally  passed  her  on  the  morning  of  the  17th,  to  the  great 
inortificatipn  of  her.  captain,  who  tried  her  on  all  tacks,  but  with 


THV   ATLANTIC   OCEAN. 


29 


ischurgc  th« 
lile  we  were 

ousc,  where 
lie  souUi  be- 
0  a  spacious 
li  are  Arran, 
ids  on  both 
Arran,  in 
inol  is  very 
my  burden. 
[  retired  to 
[  passed  the 
ly  insulated 
ong  by  the 


and  Irish 

^e  did  not 
passed  the 
in  Island; 
in  tlie  At- 
north-west 
L  In  the 
whence  we 
he  British 
Atlantic, 

arrival  on 

.11      ' 

rith  cold, 
ally,  until 
time,  we 
jad.  We 
the  com- 
ve  miles, 
their  full 
Tery  fest, 
the  great 
but  with 


out  success;  and  he  finally  shaped  his  course  more  to  the  north* 
ward,  and  we  lost  sigiit  of  the  vessel  during  the  day. 

This  breeze  continued,  wafting  us  along  at  the  rate  of  nine  or 
ten  miles  an  hour,  until  the  afternoon  of  the  20th,  when  we  were  to 
the  westward  of  the  Western  Islands,  and  congratulating  ourselves 
on  the  prospect  of  a  speedy  passage. — But,  lo  !  a  sudden  reverse 
took  place.  The  wind,  which  was  blowing  from  the  south-east, 
increased  into  a  furious  gale,  and  the  ship  was  brought  from  top- 
gallant  and  studding  sails,  to  foresail  and  close-reefed  main 
top-sail.  The  gale  increased,  the  ship  laboured  \\ati\i  and  ship.^ 
pcd  a  great  many  heavy  seas ;  but  at  1  o'clock,  on  the  morning 
of  the  2 1  St,  it  lulled  into  a  perfect  calm.  It  was  now  that  wc 
felt  the  most  disagreeeble  effects  of  the  gale;  for  the  sea  had 
risen  mountains  high,  and  the  ship,  having  no  sail  to  steady  her, 
partook  of  the  motion  of  every  wave,  and  rolled  so  sharp,  that 
she  threatened  to  toss  her  masts  overboard.  This  state  of  things 
was,  however,  of  short  duration.  At  2  o'clock,  the  wind  shifted 
to  the  north-west,  blowing  most  furiously,  till  about  sunrise, 
when  it  became  a  little  more  moderate,  and  we  made  sail ;  al« 
though  the  cross  tumbling  sea,  occasioned  by  the  contrary  gales, 
made  our  sailing  intolerably  uneasy. 

We  had  now  a  series  of  head  winds,  and  disagreeable  weather^ 
which  will  be  best  described  by  giving  an  extract  from  my  sea 
journal. 

March  22.  First  part,  strong  gales  and  clear  weather,  Middle 
and  latter  part,  strong  gales,  with  rain  and  hail,  a  very  heavy 
sea,  and  the  ship  labouring  hard. 

23.  Strong  gales  and  thick  weather  all  these  twenty-four  hours, 
a  very  heavy  sea,  and  the  ship  labouring  hard.  At  9  o'clock  in  the 
evening,  the  ship  was  struck  with  a  very  heavy  sea,  which  carried 
away  the  bulwarks,  and  split  the  starboard  plank  sheer  nearly 
the  whole  length  of  the  main  deck,  washed  the  cambouse-house 
out  of  its  place,  and  nearly  carried  the  cabin-boy  overboard.  At 
12  o'clock  at  night,  shipped  another  very  heavy  sea. 

24.  Commences  with  strong  gales  ^nd  a  heavy  sea.  Middle 
part  more  moderate,  but  a  heavy  sea,  and  the  ship  labouring 
hard.  Latter  part  moderate,  and  all  hands,  employed  in  rcpair<^ 
ing  the  damages  of  the  gale. 

25.  Fu'st  part,  fresh  breezes  and  clear.  Middle,  tremendous 
squalls.    Xntterpart,  light  airs,  inclining  to  acakn.   •>     '^    ' 


*; 


n 


so  TRAVELS   ON     • 

26.  First  part,  light  winds.  Middle  aud  latter  part,  freftk 
breezes  and  cloudy.  .  ,^  ^, 

27.  First  part,  fresh  breezes,  and  thick  hazy  weather.  Middle 
part,  the  breeze  increased  tP  a  most  tremendous  gale,  and  at 
1 1  q'cIocIc  at  night,  the  ship  wa»  struck  with  such  a  sea,  as  made 
her  quiver  to  her  centre.  My  fellow-passenger  was  thrown  out 
of  his  birth  with  the  violence  of  the  sliock,  and  the  cabin  was 
nearly  filled  with  water.  There  was  no  making  sail  in  thic 
ircatlier,  and  the  ship  was  hove  to.  Latter  part,  very  strong 
gales,  with  furious  squalls,  a  very  heavy  sea,  running,  and  tj^e 
•hip  leaking  much  in  her  upper  works»  ^.  i,,.., 

This,  and  those  of  the  2I$t  and  23d,  were  the  only  severe  galav 
we  encountered,  but  we  had  a  series  of  head  winds,  gales,  and 
squalls  with  occasional  showers  of  rain,  hail,  and  snow,  till  the 
22d  of  April,  when  I  find  the  following  remarks  in  my  Journal  t 
f*  Being  now  out  forty-one  d^ys,  and  little  more  tUaa  twp-thirds 
of  the  passage,  the  wind  right  against  us,  and  no  appearance  df 
»hifting,  we  apprehend  a  long  passage,  and  the  ship's  pompany 
are  put  on  short  allowance  of  water.  I  am  much  afraid  pur  good§ 
^ill  be  too  late  for  the  Savanna)i  market." 

The  head  winds  continued,  but  we  had  more  moderate  weather^ 
^ough  occasional  gales,  till  the  26th,  vfKyni  we  spoke  a  sjoop  out 
two  days  f^m  B^muda,  Being  now  near  the^e  little  islands,  I 
may  step  out  of  my  course  to  describe  them,  though  I  did  not  see 

They  are  four  in  nuiober,  and  were  discovered  by  John  B^rBnur 
fiaeSf  a  Spaniard,  in  1527;  but  the  I^Muiiards  neglecting  them, 
^ey  were  agun  di^overed  by  Sir  George  Sopamers,  who  wa^ 
fhipwrreckcd  on  tK^m  in  1609.  Of  these  islands,  the  chief  is  St. 
ijeorge,  having  a  capital  of  the  same  n/»me,  eonsistifig  of  abou^ 
^0  houses,  built  of  ^pft  freenstpne.  St.  Geprge  contains  about 
^^000  inhabitants,  and  the  whole  isbnds  periiaps  about  9000,  of 
irhom  nearly,  two-thirds  ar«  slaves.  The  people  are  chiefly  occur 
pied  in  building  small  craft,  with  which  they  trade  to  Canada  and 
^he  West  Indies ;  and  tjsey  are  said  tq  be  very  (st^pe^t  at  the  busi? 
|iess  of  privateering.  The  civil  govon^ncait  is  vested  in  a  goveiv 
fior,  oDuncil,  aqd  general  assembly*  The  rehg^n  is  Uiat  pf  the 
ichurch  of  England,  and  a  native  pf  Felth^  i^  Sp(^andt  is  noinistef. 
4 .  The  bead  wind»  etill  cwniioned*  bnt  tjhe  wefithfr  wa#  moderate ; 
ffpd  after  crossing  the  gulf  sttemr  we  mt4p  ^  JM  P&  th^  7tb  «^ 


I 


Till   ATLANTKi   OCEAN. 


St 


part,    fresk 

icr.  Middle 
Icf  and  at 
2a,  as  made 
thrown  out 
cabin  was 
ul  in  thif! 
verystron/j 
tg,  and  tlie 

levere  galei 
galea,  and 
3w,  till  the 
\y  Journal  t 
twp-thirds 
^earance  oS 
's  pompany 
1  pur  good^ 

te  wcatheri 
I  sloop  ou| 
)  islands,  I 
did  not  see 


May,  supposed  to  be  cnpe  Look-out,  on  the  coast  of  North  Caro- 
lina. But  the  head  winds  still  continued,  and  we  were  (to  use  a 
sea  phrase)  jammed  in  betwixt  the  gulf  stream  and  the  coast,  so 
that  we  could  make  no  progress  whatcrcr  till  the  10th,  when,  to 
our  great  joy,  we  got  a  fair  wind,  which  wafted  us  briskly  along, 
and  we  nmdc  Tybec  Light-house  early  on  the  morning  of  the  12tli 
of  May,  after  a  turbulent,  disagreeable  passage  of  61  da}'8« 

The  breeze  continuing  favt)urablc,  we  soon  approached  the  bar, 
where,  having  got  a  pilot,  we  Waited  half  an  hour  for  the  tide, 
and  then  made  sail  up  Savannah  river ;  which  I  found  a  perfect 
contrast  to  the  Clyde,  the  banks  being  low  and  muddy,  and  the 
country  round  a  perfect  level.  In  ow  passage  up  we  saw  a  good 
many  fishes  and  alligators ;  which  last  arc  fri^tful-Iodcing  animals, 
but  they  are  by  no  means  so  dangerous  as  generally  represented. 
At  2  o'clock  we  passed  a  bend  in  the  river  called  Four  Mile 
Point,  and  at  3  came  to  anchor  at  Five  Fathom  Hole;  w'hcre 
having  dined  on  board,  for  the  last  time,  we  set  out  in  the  small 
boat  for  Savannah,  which,  we  reached  at  5  o'clock. 


'-^ 


■;v   i    *^    -i 


CHAPTER  n. 

General  Remarks, 


a 


"1       r 


X  HE  roost  material  circumstances  which  happened  on  boan!, 
are  recorded  in  the  foregoing  chapter  ;  but  the  passage  may  admit 
of  the  following  general  remarks. 

The  Warrington  was  a  good  stout  vessel,  of  S18  tons  burden, 
remarkably  handsome  and  well  found,  and  a  very  fast  sailer :  but 
her  cargo  was  light,  and  all  at  the  bottom,  so  that  she  Was  not 
well  trimmed  for  sea ;  and  her  motion  was  sharp,  and  intolerably 
uneasy. 

Captain  Hinkley,  the  commander,  was  bred  a  sailor  on  board 
of  this  same  vessel,  and  raised  himself  t^  his  own  merit  to  the 
rank  he  now  holds.  His  scientific  knowledge  did  not  seem  to  be 
great,  but  he  was  an  excellent  seaman,  and  very  careful  in  the 
raanagem^t  of  the  vessel. 

He  was  provided  with  an  excellent  mate,  in  Mr.  Arnold  ;  who 
to  a  thorough  knowledge  as  a  seaman,  joined  a  correct  knowledge 
of  the  theory  and  practice  of  navigation,-  and  sciences  connected 


1 ,1- 


TRAVILS  OH    J,  , 

with  it :  he  was  moreover  a  very  agreeable,  intelligent  man,  an^  I 
received  much  information  from  his  remarks.  ,  jjj^t 

Mr.  Ballard,  my  fellow  passenger,  was  an  intelligent,  good- 
natured  young  man*  With  the  steerage  passengers  I  had  of  course 
less  connection,  but  they  were  agreeable }  and  the  sailors  behaved 
themselves  with  propriety  during  the  passage^ 

The  motion  of  the  vessel  was  too  great  to  (lermit  us  to  amuse 
ourselves  at  any  gtfme ;  and  I  devoted  my  time  pretty  closely  to 
the  study  of  navigation,  geography,  astronomy,  and  chart  draw- 
ing ;  in  which  I  flattered  myself  that  I  made  tolerable  proficiency. 
The  study  of  chemistry  took  up  part  of  my  time,  and  so  also  did 
general  literature  and  music.  To  the  principles  of  merchandize 
in  general,  and  the  trade  between  Glasgow  and  Savannah  in  par- 
ticular, I  paid  much  attention,  and  drew  up  on  essay  on  the  ship* 
ping  trade  between  the  two  places,  and  the  best  method  of  prose- 
cuting it ;  but  circumstances  have  since  occurred  which  render  it 
of  little  importance  to  the  general  reader,  and  I  omit  it,  and  sub- 
stitute in  its  place  the  following  reflections  on  the  prevailing  winds 
and  currents,  with  other  phenomena,  in  the  Atlantic ;  and  an  in- 
quiry as  to  tlie  best  courses  across  that  ocean  at  different  seasons 
of  the  year.  ,     .. 


I.   OF  THE  WINDS  OF  THE  ATLANTIC. 


The  trade  wind  prevails  between  the  tropics,  that  is,  from  2S  J« 
S.  to  SSt**  N.  latitude  being  47  degrees  in  breadth;  and  is  a  constant 
motion  of  the  air  from  east  to  west,  having  a  little  variation  near 
the  extremes,  that  is,  towards  the  southern  tropic  it  inclines  to  the 
south-east,  and  towards  the  northern  tropic  it  inclines  to  the  north- 
east. The  cause  of  this  current  of  air  is  supposed  to  be  the  action  of 
the  sun,  which  is  always  vertical  at  one  point  or  another  between 
the  tropics ;  combined  with  the  diurnal  motion  of  the  earth,  which 
has  a  greater  velocity  here  than  at  any  other  point.  The  action 
of  a  vertical  sun  rarefies  and  expands  the  air,  in  consequence  of 
which  it  rises ;  and  the  motion  of  the  eaith  sweeping  from  under  it 
at  the  rate  of  more  than  1000  miles  an  hour  to  the  eastward, 
causes  a  constant  current  of  air  to  the-  westward.  The  velocity 
of  this  current  is  various ;  but  when  I  sailed  in  it,  in  my  voyage 
to  the  West  Indies,  it  was  very  strong,  and  regular,  canying  a 
heavy  sailing  vessel  at  the  rate  of  8  miles  an  hour,  and  it  never 
shifted  a  point  from  due  east. 


man)  and  I 

;ent,  good- 
id  of  course 
trs  behaved 

U8  to  amuse 
'  closely  to 
:hart  dravr- 
proficicncy. 
1  so  also  did 
nerchandize 
mall  in  par- 
on  the  ship* 
xi  of  prose- 
ch  render  it 
it,  and  sub- 
liling  winds 
and  an  in- 
rent  seasons 


from  2«IJ« 

is  a  constant 
iation  near 

llines  to  the 

the  north* 

le  action  of 

ler  between 
•th,  which 

iThe  action 

luence  of 

under  it 

eastward, 

le  velocity 

I  my  voyage 

;arrying  a 

id  it  never 


TUB  ATLAMTIC  OCRAK.'  9S 

A  little  attention  to  the  nature  of  this  wind  may  be  useful,  at 
it  illustratr^  the  theory  of  the  variable  winds,  and  bears  with 
considerable  force  ujKm  the  theory  of  the  climate  of  the  United 
States. 

From  thp  tropic  of  Cancer,  in  23 A",  to  about  28*  north  lati- 
tude, the  -vind  generally  blows  from  the  north-east,  and  is  a 
branch  of  the  trade  wind,  partaking  of  its  nature.  Between  the 
latitudes  of  28**  and  32o  north,  the  winds  are  very  irregular;  and 
that  being  the  region  between  the  trade  and  variable  winds,  it  is 
subject  to  frequent  calms.  Between  the  latitudes  of  23*>  and  50** 
north,  westerly  winds  are  by  far  the  most  prevalent,  particularly 
in  the  winter  and  spring,  during  which  thoy  frequently  rise  to  furi- 
ous gales  and  squalls.  Beyond  50°  north,  I  had  not  occasion  to 
remark,  but  I  believe  they  are  most  prevalent  from  the  north-west. 


II.   OF  THE  GULF  STREAM. 


■■;< 

f 


'J 


This  stream  is  a  consequence  arising  from  the  trade  winds. 
By  an  inspection  of  the  chart  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  it  will  be 
seen,  that  the  vast  quantity  of  water  of  which  that  ocean  is  made 
up,  must  be  affected  by  a  constant  current  of  air  sweeping  along 
it  in  one  direction.  This  must  necessarily  give  a  small  degree  of 
motion  to  the  water,  which  being  slanted  off  by  the  direction  of 
the  coast  of  South  America,  has,  towards  the  southern  extremity^ 
a  north-west  motion,  and  proceeding  through  the  West  India 
islands,  raises  the  waters  in  the  gulf  of  Mexico  beyond  the  level 
of  the  Atlantic  or  Pacific  Oceans.  The  current  being  stopt  by 
tlic  isthmus  of  Darien,  winds  along  the  northern  coast  of  the  gulf 
of  Mexico,  in  search  of  a  level,  and  finds  an  outlet  tlirough  the 
gulf  of  Florida,  between  the  island  of  Cuba  and  the  south  jioint 
of  East  Florida.  From  thence  it  proceeds  in  a  north-east  direc- 
tion, sweeping  the  American  coast,  at  the  distance  of  60  or  70 . 
miles  from  the  land,  until  it  reaches  cape  Hatteras,  where  it  ap- 
proaches within  20  or  30  miles  of  the  coast ;  here  it  tends  more 
to  the  eastward,  until  it  reaches  the  coast  of  Nova  Scotia,  when 
it  takes  a  course  nearly  due  east.  It  continues  this  course  until 
it  reaches  the  Great  Bank  of  Newfoundland^  where  it  seems  to 
be  materially  affected,  and  diverging  to  a  greater  breadth,  is 
finally  lost  towards  the  Azores  and  Madeira  islands.  x,...] 

The  breadth  of  this  stream,  in  the  gulf  of  Florida,  i^  about 

6 


It  >t 


f 


9^  TRAVELS   IH 

89  Off  40  ndles.  It  csicrcuset  m  it  proceeds  to  the  iiMfth-eilst : 
opposite  cape  Hatteras  it  is  about  150  miles;  off  the  coast  of  Nova 
$coUait  is  about  4  degrees ;  and  at  the  Bank  of  Newfoundlmid 
it  is  about  5  degrees ;  from  thence  diverging  to  6  or  7. 
.  Thef  velocity  of  the  ourrent  is,  in  the  gulf  of  Florida,  about 
fijve  or  six  miles  an  hour,  but  it  decreases  as  it  proceeds  to  the 
nortb-east.  Opposite  cape  Hatteras  it  is  about  two  miles ;  off 
the  coast  of  .Nova  Scotia  it  is  about  one  and  a  half;  and  at  the 
banks  of  Newfoundland  it  is  about  one  mile. 

The  probability  is,  that  its  course  is  directed  to  the  eastward 
by  the  iniluence  of  the  rivers-  issuing  from  the  coast  of  America, 
particularly  the  great  rivci*  SL  Lawrence,  opposite  to  which  it 
seems  to  make  the  greatest  bend;  and  it  is  also  probable  that 
the  confluence  ot  these  waters  and  another  stream  proceeding  from 
Davis*  Straits,  has  contributed  to  raise  the  Banks  of  Newfound- 
land.      '  •         .kav-Ji^  ;:.*■;  .:iir  '^j   .11: 

The  temperature  of  this  stream  is  different  from  that  of  the 
surrounding  ocean,  and  partakes  of  that  of  the  waters  in  the  gulf 
<^  Mexico,  being  generally  10  or  IS^  degrees  warmer  than  the 
other  parts  of  the  oceait.  Hence  it  affect8>  the  temperature  of  the 
air  above  it,  which  is  frequently  subject,  particrularly  in  the  spring, 
to  calms,  fogs,  whirlwinds,  water  spouts,  and  storms  of  diunder 
and  lightning.  The  heavy  fbgs  which  hover  over  the  Banks  of 
Newfeufldfand,  seem  to  arise  from  this  warm  fluid,  mixing  with 
the  cold  atmosphere  generated  by  the  stream  firom  Davis'  Straits. 

The  next  phenomenon  which  I  shall  notice,  as  bearing  on  this 
subject,  is,  that  islands  of  ice^  sometimes  numerous  and  of  great 
extent,  arc  carried  by  the  stream  from  Davis'  Straits,  in  the 
spring  season ;  and  before  they  are  dissolved"  by  tlie  warmth  of 
the  Atlantic,  they  sometimes  extend  as  far  south  as  the  latitude  of 
45^  or  40O,  and  as  far  east  as  the  longitude  of  i^°  or  50°.  Vessels 
sailing  to  and  from  America  have  been  frequently  entangled 
amongst  thcm^  and  some^hare  been  tn.  ally  lost. 

A  correct  knowledge  of  these  circumstances  is  of  considerable 
iinp6lM;{mce  to  our  inquiry,  and  the  following  practical  deductions 
iftay  be  of  service  to  those  interested  in  the  result.  ■  ^'  •'^^-  • 

^  1st.  Ships  bound  fVom  Britain  to  the  West  Indies  should  shape 
their  cotn'se  from  the  channel  to  St.  Mary's,  one  of  the  Azores; 
from  thence,  to  where  the  longitude  of  40"  intersects  the  latitude- 
of  23 1** ;  and  fhun  tlience  run  down  the  trades  for  the  intended 


€i 


•  V  '• 


CBORCIA^ 


S5 


le  iKH'th-eflst: 
coast  of  Nova 
Newfoundlmid 
)r  7. 

Florida,  about 
oceeds  to  the 
wo  milea ;  off 
f ;  and  at  the 

the  eastward 
t  of  America, 
i  to  which  it 
probable  that 
)ceeding  from 
)f  Newfound- 

II  that  of  the 
!rs  in  the  gulf 
^er  than  the 
erature  of  the 
in  the  spring, 
s  of  thunder 
le  Banks  of 
mixing  with 
'is*  Straits. 
Aring  on  this 
md  of  great 
raits^  m  the 
warmth  of 
le  latitude  of 
.  Vessels 
entangled 


0 


considerable 
deductions 

lould  shape 
he  Azores; 
:he  latitude* 
e  intended 


porf.  Ships  bound  from  Europe  to  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  should 
keep  the  same  course.  The  return  from  the  West  Indies  and 
Mexico  to  Europe  is  different  according  to  situation^  as  a  few  dt* 
grees  of  longitude  make  an  important  variation.  Generally  speak- 
ing, it  is  best  for  vessels  to  bear  to  the  northward  until  tliey  get  in* 
to  the  variable  winds,  and  then  keep  ak)ng  with  them  in  tlie  fteor^ 
est  way  to  their  intended  port. 

2d.  Vessels  bound  to  the  southward  of  the  <apes  of  Virginia  i* 
the  United  States,  should,  in  the  spring,  shape  their  course  for 
St.  Mary's,  as  aforesaid;  from  thence  to  about  where  the  Icmgitudte 
of  35"  intersects  the  latitude  of  28°,  where  they  will,  at  that  sea^ 
son,  most  likely  meet  with  an  easteriy  wind,  failing  which  tlicy  arb 
sure  to  fall  In  with  it  a  few  degrees  farther  south ;  run  down  with 
it  due  west  till  they  arrive  on  the  confines  of  the  gulf  stream;  and 
then  bear  away  for  the  intended  port  By  taking  this  southern 
tx>arse,  at  this  scoseo,  they  will  avbid  several  difficulties,  1st.  The 
tlanger  of  falling  in  ^th  islands  of  ice.  2dly.  Tlie  necessity  x>f 
passing  the  gulf  stream  if^her^itis  ibirr  tn*  five  degrees  broad,  and 
at  that  season  subject  to  much  bad  weather  And  9dly.  Thb 
chance  of  meeting  with  a  series  of  head  winds.  In  the  autumn 
there  is  no  ice  to  be  dreaded,  the  weather  is  more  mikl,  and  the 
westeriy  winds  less  prevalent,  while  the  latitudes  between  26*  and 
32**  are  much  subjected  to  calms,  «o  that  it  is  best,  upon  the  whole, 
to  run  for  the  intended  port.  v^  .. 

3d.  Ships  bound  to  the  northward  of  the  capet  of  Virginia 
should  shape  their  course  direct  for  the  intended  port,  llwy 
have  no  occasion  to  cross  the  gulf  stream,  and,  {is  to  the  ice,  it 
may  be  prudent  to  keep  a  little  to  the  southward,  as  they  approach 
the  Banks  of  Newfoundland. 

4th.  Vessels  bound  to  Europe  from  any  port  of  America,  can> 
not  do  better  than  run  direct  for  the  intended  port. 


&' 


r" 


t<V 


•:'»)■;  ,m 


CHAPTER  III, 

JSavannohm 


4& 


'}:J  /-;  I    ;» 


u 


T   .'it 


X  HE  firbt  dbjectii  that  attracted  my  att^tion  on  my  arrival  in 
Savannah,  was  the  sallow  appearance  of  the  ivhabitantf,  and  the 
extreme  warmth  of  the  weather;  the  thermoiDeter  being  at  .91^. 
I  naturally  concluded  that  as  the  season  advanced  the  heat  would 


36  TRAVULS    IN 

increase,  and  would  soon  be  almost  intolerable.  This  opinion  was 
strengthened  by  some  of  the  inhabitants  who  are  in  the  habit  o^ 
alarming  strangers  concerning  the  climate ;  but  I  yras  afterwards 
informed  by  a  judicious  medical  gentleman,  that  there  would  be 
few  days  warmer  than  this,  and  that  the  weather  would  be,  upon 
the  whole,  much  cooler.  This  opinion  I  found  to  be  correct,  for 
in  a  few  d{^ys  the  thermometer  fell  \}e\oyf  70°,  and  it  seldom  rose 
above  85°  while  I  continued  in  Savannah. 

The  next  circumstance  that  made  a  forcible  impression  upon  me 
ivas  the  great  difference  betweei^  ^his  place  and  any  other  I  had 
seen  before.  There  was  no  distai^t  view — no  external  object  to 
amuse  the  fancy — the  wjiole  country  round,  north,  south,  east,  and 
we^t,  was  one  dull  scene  which  excited  no  interest ;  and  the  music 
pf  the  birds  of  heaven  was  exchanged  for  the  dull  cloaking  of  the 
|>ull-frog,  and  the  shrill  treble  pipe  of  the  musquetoe.  Neverthe- 
less, I  soon  got  familii(pzed  to  the  place,  and  even  fpnd  of  it. 
My  business,  which  was  well  organized,  was  succeeding  to  my  wish, 
and  the  inhabitants,  lyhom  I  found  yery  obliging,  became  every 
4ay  more  amiable  in  my  cyeSf 

Savannah  is  situated  in  32?  3'  north  latitude,  on  a  high  sandy 
l)^nk,  or  bluif  on  the  south  side  of  the  Savannah  river,  n  miles 
from  the  sea.  The  city  is  l^d  out  on  an  elegant  plan,  and  is  about 
a  mile  in  length  from  cast  to  west,  and  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
in  breadth.  It  consists  of  30  streets,  16  squares,  and  6  lanes,  con- 
taining about  lopo  houses,  and  5500  inhabitants;  of  whom  about 
2500  are  slaves.  The  public  buildings  are  a  CQurt:-houi^,  jail,  aca- 
demy, bank-office,  and  five  places  for  public  worship.  There  has 
lately  been  built  a  very  handsome  exchange,  with  a  spire  and  ob- 
•ervatory,  from  whence  vessels  may  be  seen  put  at  sea  10  or  12 
xniles.  The  situation  of  Savannah  is  favourable  both  for  health 
and  cp^nmerce.  The  bluff  on  which  |t  is  built  is  from  5p  to  70 
feet  high,  so  that  there  is  a  fine  descent  to  the  river.  This  bluff  is 
a  bed  of  very  fine  sand ;  and  by  digging  wells  abou^  gO  or  70  feet 
^eep,  a  supply  of  excellent  water  is  procured,  probably  a  filtration 
from  the  river.  The  streets  are  broad  and  airy,  and  the  city,  being 
only  17  miles  from  the  sea,  frequently  enjoys  a  sea  breeze,  which 
is  cool  and  refreshing  in  the  summer  season. 

The  trade  of  the  city  is  considerable,  and  employs  1 3  regular 
ships  to  Britain ;  15  packet  brigs  and  schooners  to  New  York ;  two 
or  three  to  Phikdelphiai  Baltimore  and  Boston;  two  or  three 


opinion  was 
the  habit  o^ 
as  afterwards 
re  would  be 
)uld  be,  upon 
correct,  for 
t  seldom  rose 

slon  upon  me 
Y  other  I  had 
lal  object  to 
ith,  east,  and 
ind  the  music 
paking  of  the 
(.  Neyerthe- 
n  fpnd  of  it. 
ig  to  my  wish, 
lecame  every 

a  high  sandy 

er,   n  miles 

and  is  about 

er  of  a  mile 

6  lanes,  con- 

whom  about 

11^,  jail,  aca- 

There  has 

•ire  and  ob- 

|sea  10  or  12 

for  health 

m  5p  to  70 

'his  bluff  is 

(0  or  70  feet 

a  filtration 

city,  being 

[eeze,  which 

13  regular 

I  York ;  two 

or  three 


GEORGIA.  ^7 

sloojH  to  Charleston ;  and  four  or  five  vessels  to  the  West  Indies. 
Besides  these,  there  arc  a  number  of  vessels  that  come  from  the 
northward,  annually,  to  take  freight  for  Britain,  and  the  continent 

of  Europe.  :  '  '      '  '^ 

The  country  in  the  vicinity  contributes  but  little  to  the  supply  of 
the  city.     To  the  south  it  is  sandy  and  barren  for  a  considerable 
distance ;  to  the  north,  east,  and  west,  considerable  crops  of  rice 
are  raised ;  but  it  is  thought  that  the  rice  fields  contribute  to  makei. 
the  city  unhealthy.     Cotton  and  rice  are  the  staple  commodities  of 
the  state ;  and  Savannah  bfeing  the  only  shipping  port  in  it,  is,  of 
course,  the  general  mart  for  the  disposal  of  these  articles.     The  sea- 
island  cotton  of  this  state  is  reckoned  superior  to  any  in  America. 
Tlie  principal  islands  where  it  is  raised  are  JSt.  Symons  and  Cum- 
berland ;  but  it  is  planted  and  comes  to  maturi^  in  all  the  other 
islands  along  the  coast  from  Charleston  southward,  as  well  as  on 
other  places  of  the  seaboard,  and  is  thence  called  seaboard  cotton^ 
or,  as  some  of  my  Scots  friends  would  have  it,  **  seabu/rd  •woo.** 
The  exports  from  the  state  amount  to  above  two  millions  of  dollars 
annually ;  besides  what  is  carried  coastwise,  which  is  not  entered 
at  the  custom-house,  and  which  may  probably  amount  to  as  much 
more.     The  great  value  is  in  cotton,  and  the  whole  centres  in  Sa* 
vannah.     The  imports  are  from  Europe,  the  West  Indies^  and  the 
northern  states,  and  consist  of  dry  goods,  hardware,  groceries,  flour, 
&c. ;  and  it  is  presumed  they  are  nearly  ecjual  in  value  to  the  ex- 
portst    Supposing  the  aggregate  to  be  8,000,000  dollars,  and  allow 
7  per  cent,  commission  to  the  Savannah  merchants,  the  result  will 
be  560,000  dollars,  as  the  annual  income  of  Savannah,  which  may 
perhaps  be  pretty  near  the  trvith. 

Savannah  river  is  one  of  the  most  important  in  America.  Its 
head  waters  consist  of  two  small  rivers  which  rise  near  the  moun* 
tains,  and  form  a  junction  about220  miles  from  the  sea ;  from  thence 
it  runs  a  south-east  course,  and  falls  into  the  ocean  17  miles  belo# 
Savannah.  It  receives  several  small  streams  in  its  progress,  and 
is  the  boundary  line  between  Georgia  and  South  Carolina,  during 
its  whole  course.  It  is  navigable  for  ships  of  any  burden  to  within 
three  miles  of  Savannah ;  for  ships  of  250  tons  to  Savannah  j  and 
for  boats  of  100  feet  keel  to  Augusta.  Above  Augusta  are  tlie  Ra- 
pids, and,  after  passing  them,  the  river  can  be  navi^ted  80  miles 
higher,  in  small  boats,  to  the  junction  of  the  head  waters.  It  may 
be  f'emarked  that  through  the  medium  of  (his  river  a  cooiideraUe 


Iff 


II 


1; 


'I,      I  ! 


ii 


■WTAVELS  IN 

put  of  Hbe  produce  of  SonCh  Carolina  is  carried  to  the  Siivsnnali 


TheTKer  bbomad^  vrith  fish,  aod  the  water  is  soft  and  good ;  but 
the  country  on  its  banks  is  by  no  means  healthy,  especially  in  the 
UwerpMTt  of  tile  Btftte. 


XH 


,  i 


:  h 


lOii 


Ji 


'U 


*  CHAPTER  JV. 

Savannahi'-^fVai/Ttesborottghf-—Louisvillef        •  r*.  •>      : 

JHLAVING  arranged  jny  afl^sin  Savannah,  and  confided  tlie 
iQAii^gement  of  the  business  to  a  trusty  assistant,  I  resolved,  in 
^urauABce  of  zsy'  original  plan,  to  make  a  tour  to  the  upper  coun«- 
iiy,  for  ^  purpose  of  acquiring  information,  and  forming  con- 
pexione.  The  season  was  far  advanced  for  travelling,  in  that  coun- 
«try«  but  J  trusted  to  a  good  constitution  und  temperate  habits; 
.And  finding  *  gentleman  about  to  go  to  Augusta,  I  resolved  to 
i;^y^..mpelf  ;Qf  his  company.  I  accordingly  pi|rchased  a  horse, 
4bc  which  I  pai4. lliS  dollars,  saddle  and  bridle  included,  and, 
bwijig^yery  thing,  prepared,,  we  set  out  at  mid-day  on  Friday, 
ji^ne  2.7th.  We  took  the  Augusta  road,  and  at  two  miles  from 
£lav»noah,  we  passed  the  branch  which  leads  to  Louisville.  A 
little  beyond  this  there  is  a  fine  spfing  of  pure  water,  much  fre- 
,jgilfDled-.by  the  inhabitants  of  Savannah  in  the  summer  season. 
J^en  miles  from  Savannah  we  met  two  travellers,  who  informed 
,1^  that  the  creeks*  were  all  swelled  to  a  great  height,  and  the 
bridges  broken  down,  so  that  we  coi^  not  ppssibly  get  along. 
-JeYip  road  was,  indeed,  far  from  inviting.  There  had  been  a  long 
lories  of  rainy  weather,  and  the  ^ternoon  was  very  sultry ;  but 
,)re  resolved  to  go  through,  if  possible,  and  accordingly  kept  on 
./Mir  Qowcse.  Two  miies  from  w;here  we  met  the  travellers,  we 
lyyarhed  the  firat  obstacle,  caHed  Pipemaker's  Creek.  The  bridge 
frag  nearl^r  j;one,'  but  we  adjnsted  the  rafters  a  Uttle^  and  witii 
j0O}edi£^ulty  led .^ur. horses  over.  After  travelling  three  miles 
^ff^vcf  we  reachf^  A^s|lin'6  Creek*  and  hercs  the  bridge  being 
.fBtirely  gone^  we  awam  ijur.  horses  ao-oss.  A  mile  further  on 
o]|r«  reMbed  Bifuilf  Crqek,  4he  largest  §nd  most  dangerous  of  tlie 
^^jfoo^    It  hod  .svell^  to  a  great  extent ;  in  the  middle  the  current 

^-t  tlftrteftft  fc,  In  this  rhftcJT  States,  sj^lied  to  stmma  or  rifulet* 


C( 

a 


i«  :  '  I' 


the  Siivannali 

nd  good ;  but 
lecifllly  in  the 


,  ■  1 


confided  tlie 

resolved,  in 

upner  coun«> 

forming  con- 

in  that  coun- 

erate  habits; 

'  resolved  to 

ased  a  horse, 

icluded,  and, 

y  on  Friday, 

miles  from 

ouisville.     A 

much  fre- 

imer  season. 

lo  inf<»med 

It,  and  the 

get  along. 

been  a  long 

sultry;  but 

fly  kept  on 

'aveUers,  we 

The  bridge 

and  with 

three  miles 

idge.  being 

further  on 

Tous  of  the 

the  corrent 


'\ 


was  rapid,  and  the  bridge  was  in  a  very  shattered  coaditicxu  Wq 
had  to  wade  with  oin-  hors^is  nearly  belly  deep^  above  200  yavd^ 
befoie  we  came  to  the  bridge,  and  here  aligjUting,  I  walked  a- 
long,  up  to  the  knees  in  water,  adjusting  the  rafters  m  i)f|H  afl  J^ 
could,  and  then  with  considerable  difficulty  led  my  hone  oiver  :> 
a  cqnntryman,  whom  we  came  i^  with  at  the  bridge^  attempted) 
to  follow  my  example,  but  his  horse  fell  through^  and  was  near 
being  lost.  I  pitied  the  poor  man,  who-  was  in  gveat  '(^ietioa 
for  his  crature^  a»  he  called  the  hone ;  but  we  assist^  l^iip^,  apdt 
with  considerable  difficulty  got  the  cvature  relieved*  M^  feUow- 
travdUcr  declined  fpllowisg  our  example,  and,,  ^tripping  hitthori^ 
he  swam  him  though  the  cre^k^  himself  walking  fJoBg  the  k»^ 
mains  of  the  sliattered  bridge.  After  passing  the  bridge^  we  had» 
i^in  to  wade  about  200  yarda  b^ore  we  readied  dry  Imi }  aad^ 
a  litde  beyond  the  credc,  we  arrived  at  Hd/s  Ian,  where  we^ 
stopt  for  dinner.  Here  we  found  the  Augusta  stage  and  passengfrs*! 
They  had  set  out  two  houi^  before  us,  and,  having  the  sam^  okv<* 
stacles  to  encounter  as  ourselves,  had  been  detained  tiius  Ion|^ 
Our  dinner  consisted  e£  fowls,  baeouy  eggs,  butter,  wheat  breadn 
Indian  corn  bread,  rice,  and  homony.  The  last  ia(«tio|ie^.  du^ 
I  had  not  seen  before,  and  it  is  not  generally  known. ,  It  k-  madct 
of  Lidiaa  com  cleared  of  the  husk,  and  broken  by  beatin|^  but 
not  very  small;  it  is  then  boiled  in  water  to  the  consistence  o£ 
pudding,  and  served  up  for  use.  "Wl»eil  well  prepared,  it  is  very; 
patalable,  and  is  wholesome  nutritive  food.  A  little  ciierry  In'anr 
dy  vfaf,  the  only  liquor  we  could  get.  The  charge  for  n»aa  andi 
horse  was  75  cents. 

Leaving  Hely's,  we  travelled  two  miles,  when  my  fell&wtravel* 
ler  stopped  to  point  out  the  spot  where  twt>  negroes  were  execiiteds 
for  killing  an  overseer.  The  one  was  banged,  and  the  other 
was  burnt  to  death.  I  was  informed  that  this  mode  of  punishment 
is  sometimes  inftietcd  on  negroes,  when  the  crime  is  vecy  ^9gpant»> 
to  deprive  them  of  the  mental  consolation  arising  frota  ai'llope* 
that  they  will  after  death  return  to  their  own  country.  Tbisliifiy  b* 
good  policy  as  respects  the  blacks;  but,  in  mercy  to  thi^  whiter 
l)cople,  I  wish  it  could  be  avoided.  When  I  looked  a|  ti»» 
torched  tree  where  the  mim  had  been  tied,  and  obsenrad  t]»d 
fragments  of  his  bones  at  the  foot  of  it,  I  was  horror-striicli ;  and 
I  never  yet  can  think  of  the  scene  witfaofut  a  pang.  Whikt  iBeloigK 
muH  have  been  excited  in  those  who  saw  the  executiodil.    Thir^ 


40 


trAVils  lit 


<  Lv 


m  '^ 


teen  miles  beyond  this  we  reached  Berry's  taveiu^  26  miles  from 
Savannah,  and  here  we  stopt  for  the  night. 

The  afternoon  was  sultry,  and,  in  consequence  of  the  heavy 
rauu,  tlia  road  was  very  bad.  The  first  13  miles  we  were  quite 
enveloped  in  thick  pine  woods,  with  very  little  brush-wood.  The 
•oil  is  pdor  and  sandy,  so  that  there  are  few  settlements.  The 
last  15  miles  were  rather  more  pleasant,  and  there  are  more  set« 
tlements;  but  the  country  is  level,  abounding  with  marshes,  mus- 
quetoea,  and  bull-frogs ;  and  the  soil  continues  poor  and  sandy. 

Saturday,  l!8th  June,  we  rose  at  S  o'clock  and  settled 
cor  bill,  which  amounted  to  one  dollar  and  thirty-one  cents 
each;  and  travelled  through  a  barren,  swampy,  tinpleasant 
tract,  10  miles,  when  we  stopped  to  breakfast  at  the  house  of  a 
Major  Ki»g.  We  were  detained  a  lohg  time  here :  but  we  were 
well  compensated  by  getting  an  excellent  breakfast,  and  the  vie^v 
of  the  place  was  far  superior  to  any  thing  we  had  seen  since  we 
left  Savannah.  It  is  situated  on  an  eminence,  the  ground  cleared 
for  a  c<m8iderable  way  round,  and  there  is  a  clear  rivulet  in  the 
neighbourhood,  a  thing  uncommon  in  the  low  country;  such 
streams  being  generally  choaked  up  by  brush-wood,  and  converted 
into  swamps. 

After  leaving  King's,  the  country  rises  a  little,  but  it  is  still 
poor  and  sandy.  We  travelled  10  miles  to  Savg^s,  and  the 
day  being  exceedingly  hot,  we  stopped  here  for  dinner.  Hearing 
die  noise  of  a  wheel  up  stairs,  which  was  the  first  I  had  heard 
in  America,  I  went  to  see  what  was  going  on.  Here  I  saw  a 
black  ^rl  carding  cotton,  and  a  daughter  of  the  landlord  spinning 
the  rolls  on  the  large  wheel.  They  were  quite  busy,  and  appear- 
ed to  be  industrious  and  happy.  After  coming  down  stairs  I 
Mitoed  into  conversation  with  the  mistress  of  the  house,  whom  I 
found  to  be  a  sensible  woman,  and  sufiiciently  communicative.  She 
informed  me,  that  they^  as  well  as  all  the  other  iamilies  in  the 
nei^bourhood,  spun  cotton  all  the  year  round,  and  got  the  yarn 
woven  into  every  article  necessary  for  family  use;  such  as  sheet- 
ing, shirting,  toweling,  table-cloths,  gowns,  petticoats,  aprons, 
caps ;  pantaloons,  vesting,  and  summer  coats  for  the  men's  use ; 
beddes  sofa-clothes,  fringes,  tassels,  hosiery,  &c.  I  examined  the 
jraum  and  cloth,  and  found  the  fabrics  substantial  and  durable. 
The  doth  was  neatly  manu&ctured,  and  some  of  the  articles 
were  haadsome.    I  saw  that  this  family  was    *<  independent  of 


6  miles  from 

of  the  heavy 
ve  were  quite 
i-wGod.  The 
»ments.  The 
ire  more  set* 
larshes,  mils* 
and  sandy. 

and  settled 
rty-one  cents 

unpleasant 
e  house  of  a 
but  we  were 
and  the  view 
een  since  we 
'ound  cleared 
rivulet  in  the 
tuntry ;  such 
iud  converted 

lut  it  is  still 

^Sf    and  the 

T.     Hearing 

[  had  heard 

Te  I  saw   a 

ord  spinning 

and  appear- 

wn  stairs   I 

ise,  whom  I 

icative.  She 

allies  in  the 

ot  the  yarn 

h  as  sheet- 

ats,  apronsy 

men's  use ; 

amined  the 

d  durable. 

the  articles 

^pendent  of 


CEotelA. 


41 


commerce ;"  and  this  was  the  first  impression  that  I  received  as 
to  the  importance  of  the  domestic  manufactures  of  America.  The 
idea  was  novel,  and  its  tendency  was  to  militate  against  my  in- 
terest as  an  importer;  yet  I  cannot  say  but  that  the  feelings 
excited  by  it  were  of  the  pleasing  kind.  Self-interest  is  a  proper 
principle,  but  it  should  be  so  regulated  as  not  to  blunt  the  feelings 
of  humanit}',  nor  to  make  us  repine  at  the  well-being  of  others'. 

Leaving  this  comfortable  cabin  we  travelled  two  miles,  when, 
coming  to  a  grocery  store,  we  lighted  to  quench  our  thirst ;  the  af- 
ternoon being  excessively  hot  and  sultry.  Here  we  saw  a  lady 
from  Savannah,  who,  having  lost  two  childreil  in  that  city,  had 
retired  here  with  the  third,  the  only  one  she  had  left.  The  child 
appeared  to  be  thriving,  and  I  hope  will  live  to  reward  the  mother 
for  her  maternal  care.  The  Georgian  ladies  appear  to  be  Very 
fond  of  children,  and,  in  the  Country  at  least,  they  seem  to  be  suf* 
Sciently  prolific ;  for  we  hardly  ever  passed  a  house  without  see- 
ing a  cluster  of  young  ones:  and  often  a  child  at  the  breast  of  a 
mother,  whom,  judging  from  external  appearance,  I  would  have 
reckoned  past  child-bearing.  ^ 

We  travelled  eiglrt  miles  further,  through  a  country  nearly 
similiar  to  that  we  had  passed,  to  Pearce^s;  and  here  wc  stopped 
for  the  night. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  pleasant  places  I  had  yet  seen  in  Georgia. 
There  are  three  plantations  adjoining,  so  that  the  country  is  clear- 
ed for  a  considerable  way  round ;  and  being  a  little  elevated,  it  !s 
free  from  swamps,  and  tolerably  healthy.  Here  wc  saw  a  number 
of  starlings,  and  heard  several  mocking-birds,  whose  notes  were 
very  delightful.  We  retired  to  rest  at  nine  o'clock;  but  I  was  so 
overcome  with  fatigue,  that  I  enjoyed  little  repose. 

Sunday,  29th  June.  We  set  out  at  five  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
and  travelling  1 1  miles  through  pine  woods,  and  k  barren  sandy 
soil,  we  passed  Beavcrdam  creek  by  a  wooden  bridge,  and  arrived 
at  the  village  of  Jacksonborough.  It  is  situated  on  the  north  side 
of  the  creek,  and  consists  of  about  12  dwelling  houses,  a  church, 
and  jail.  The  situation  is  unhealthy  on  the  creek,  but  the  land  is 
considerably  elevated  behind  the  town,  and  is  said  to  be  quits 
healthy.  The  view  was  gratifying  to  me,  being  the  first  risin£f 
ground  I  had  seen  in  the  United  States. 

We  travelled  nine  miles  beyond  this  to  Burrel's,  to  breakfast* 
The  country  is  completely  barren,  and  covered  with'  pine  trees, 

6 


42 


TRAVELS   IN 


r 


witliout  any  brushwood,  the  whole  way,  but  the  air  wns  clastic  and 
.agreeable.  It  is  a  common  remark  in  Georgia,  that  the  pine  lands 
are  healthy ;  and  the  circumstance  may  probably  be  accounted  for 
by  supposing,  that  the  resinous  particles  of  the  pine  may  contri- 
bute to  increase  the  oxygen  of  the  atmosphere ;  while,  tlie  woods 
being  generally  on  barren  ground,  no  pernicious  gases  are  gene- 
rated uncongeilial  to  the  human  system.  A  great  portion  of  the 
subsistence  of  the  human  body,  is  received  by  breathing.  The 
atmosphere  is  principully  composed  of  two  fluids,  oxygen  and 
a^ote,  in  the  proportion  of  nearly  three-fourths  of  the  latter  to 
one-fourth  of  the  former*  It  is  the  oxygen  that  supports  animal 
life.  In  respiration  it  is  absorbed  by  the  lungs,  and  combines 
with  the  blood,  which  give»it  its  florid  colour;  while  the  azote  is 
thrown  out  by  the  return  of  the  breathing.  There  are  other  fluids 
which  mingle  occasionally  with  the  atmosphere,  the  principal  of 
which  is  hydrogen,  which  is  generated  freely  by  the  decompo- 
sition of  vegetable  and  animal  matter  in  water ;  and  this  tbiid  is 
not  simply  unfit  for  respiration  in  a  negative  sense — it  is  positively 
noxious.  Hence  that  state  of  the  atmosphere  which  contains  oxy- 
gen m  the  proper  portion,  and  where  there  is  no  other  gas,  except 
azote,  must  be  tlie  fittest  for  respiration ;  and,  from  a  consideri^tion  of 
these  circumstances,  we  may  see  the  reason  why  high  hilly  countries^ 
or  well-drained  low  countries)  are  healthy— 'while  crowded  cities, 
abounding  in  filth,  and  low  marshy  situations  in  the  country,  arc 
the  reverse. — From  this  reasoning  we  may  draw  the  following  prac- 
tical deductions. 

1st.  Cities  should  be  so  constructed,  as  to  admit  a  current  of  free 
air  into  every  spot.  They  should  be  kept  very  clean ;  and  no 
stagnant  'ttrater,  or  latent  filth,  should  be  allowed  to  accumulate  ia 
or  about  them< 

2d.  Low  countries,  when  fixed  upon  as  the  residence  of  man, 
should  be  drained ;  or,  if  that  be  impractiable,  the  houses  should 
be  as  fiir  removed  from  all  stagnant  water  as  possible. 

Sd.  In  those  diseases  which  are  the  efiect  of  breathing  impure  air, 
perhaps  it  would  be  beneficial  to  administer  oxygen  to  the  lungs  as 
a  medicine.  The  use  of  vinegar  in  diseases  of  this  kind  is  well 
known.  It  is  almost  wholly  composed  of  oxygen,  and  it  parts 
-with  it  freely ;  so  that  on  sprinkling  a  sick  chamber  with  it,  an 
odour  immediately  rises,  which  is  both  grateful  and  beneficial  to 
the  patient.     Several  plants  have  the  some  effect,   particularly 


vm  clastic  and 
the  pine  land* 
accounted  for 
e  may  contri- 
te, tlie  woods 
ises  are  gene- 
ortion  of  the 
thing.      Tho 

oxygen  and 
■  the  latter  to 
iports  animal 
nd  combines 
i  the  azote  is 
'c  other  fluids 

principal  of 
the  deeomp<v 
1  this  fluid  is 
t  IS  positively 
contains  oxy- 
r  gas,  except 
isideration  of 
lly  countries^ 
3wded  cities, 
country,  are 

lowing  prac- 

irrent  of  free 
in;  and  no 
:cumulate  in. 

nee  of  man, 
;>uses  should 

:  impure  air, 
the  lungs  as 
iod  is  well 
nd  it  parts 
with  it,  an 
e^eficial  to 
)articularly 


GBOBGIA.  43 

those  having  an  acid  smell.  I  was  once  recovered  from  fainting 
by  the  application  of  southernwood.  I  had  been  oiTectcd  by 
breathing  air  deprived  of  its  oxygen  in  a  crowded  church.  Th« 
oxygen  of  the  plant  supplied  the  defect,  and  relieved  me.  i^>iu-  a. 
Having  breakfasted,  we  pursued  our  journey  1 1  miles  through 
a  country  nearly  similar  to  that  already  described,  but  rather  in  an 
improving  state,  to  where  the  road  forks;  the  right  branch 
leading  to  Augusta,  the  left  to  Waynesborough.  We  took  that 
towards  Waynesborough,  on  which  the  country  improves  rapidly. 
In  place  of  pine  barrens,  swamps,  and  muddy  creeks,  we  had 
now  an  elevated  dry  road,  agreeably  yneyen,  and  adorned  oh 
each  side  with  natural  woods,  consisting  of  pine,  oak,  hickory, 
and  blaek-jadc.  The  underwood  was  pretty  thick  and  busliy ;  in- 
dicating a  considerable  degree  of  fertility.  Seven  miles  from 
where  we  left  the  Augusta  road  we  reached  widow  I^aseter's,  where 
wc  stopped  to  dinner,  and  were  hospitably  entertained.  The  heal- 
tliiness  of  the  place  was  visible  in  the  countenances  of  the  family, 
among  whom  were  two  pretty  little  giiis. 

A  little  before  we  reached  this  place  we  passed  a  church,  which 
we  were  inform«d  belongs  to  the  methodists.    This  sect  lias  been 
long  established  in  Georgia,  and  the  zeal  with  which  they  have 
propagated  their  opinions,  and  enforced  the  principles  of  morality 
amongst  their  votaries,  does  them  credit.     They  have  been  of  con- 
siderable use  in  society,  and  I  wish  them  success  in  every  good 
work.     But  I  cannot  see  the  propriety  of  some  of  their  proceed-  ^ 
ings.    Their  camp  meetings  may  be  very  well  meant,  and  may  be 
calculated  tq  do  some  good ;  but  they  are  ^  species  of  f  f  holy  fair^' 
at  which  "grace*'  is  not  the  only  commodity  to  be  purchased; 
and,  from  the  mode  in  !|irhich  they  are  frequented  by  the  profane 
and  the  prpfiigatc,  it  is  questionable  whether  the  evil  attending 
them  does  not  overbalance  the  good.     And  I  can  see  as  little  sensa 
in  the  practice  they  often  have  of  thumping  and  making  a  qoife  i« 
the  time  of  divine  service,  thereby  copvecting  the  temple  of  tho 
Lord  into  a  scene  of  confusion  and  discord,  exciting  the  laughter ' 
of  the  pro&ae,  and  distracting  the  serious.     W6  were  informed ' 
that  a  little  before  we  reached  this  place,  a  poor  girl  was' so  afford  - 
ed,  that  she  fell  down  in  a  fit ;  and  that  a  black  female  preacher, 
of  the  name  of  Dorothy  Ripley,  frequently  attended,^  and  hti/d  thf 
ait  of  playing  upon  the  passions  so  effectually,  that  she  would 
iometimes  trip  half  a  dozen  of  her  hearers,    ^  Let  all  tlyiigs  be 


4. 


■^^ 


,^ 


44  THAVKLS    IK 

done  decently  and  in  orderj"  says  the  apostle.  Let  the  mcthodists 
go  and  do  likewise,  n^  I    i       '.i^/.'i^^-tA.i  ».•.«*    -.v.  ft^,  ..^  n,  \  <••. 

%  While  we  were  speaking,  we  saw  a  crowd  of  men,  women,  and 
children,  who  had  been  at  4  baptist  camp  meeting.  The  bfiptists 
are  said  to  b<;  one  of  the  most  numerous  and  influential  religious 
societies  in  the  state.  They  are  also  zealous  in  propagating  their 
opinions,  and  ar^ pretty  austere  in  their  manners;  but  I  did  not 
hear  of  any  excesses  in  their  camp  meetings  or  churches. 

Leaving  M^rs.  Lasetef's,  we  travelled  four  miles  to  Waynes- 
borough,  and  Ipdgied  at  the  l^ouse  of  Mr.  Wynne;  who  to  the 
business  of  tavern-keeper  joins  that  of  post  mastcr« 

,  WAYNES&onpuGH  is  built  principally  on  one  street,  and  consists 
of  about  40  dwelling  houses,  church,  jail,  academy,  and  court- 
rooms. It  contains  220  inhabitants,  of  whom  above  one  half  are 
slaves.  The  land  in  its  vicinity  is  prptty  good ;  is  cultivated  a 
considerable  way  round ;  and  there  are  in  its  neighbourhood  some 
very  wealthy  planters.  It  is^distant  from  Savannah  river  12  miles, 
and  has  a  considerable  trade  in  dry  goods  and  groceries. 

Having  spent  a  day  in  this  place,  an4  parted  with  my  fellow- 
traveller,  who  took  the  road  to  Augusta,  I  ^et  oqt  for  Louisville 
on  Tuesday  the  1st  of  Jqly,  at  five  o'clock  in  the  morning.  Five 
tniles  from  Waynesborough  I  came  to  a  fine  spring,  and  descended 
a  considerable  way  by  a  stony  path  to  a  rivulet,  on  which  I  heard 
the  soi^icl  of  several  mills.  The  sound  of  machinery  is  always 
grateful  to  my  ear,  and  the  view  of  the  stones  excited  no  small  de« 
grce  of  interest ;  being  the  first  that  I  had  seen  in  the  United 
Suites.  After  travelling  nine  miles,  further,  through  a  barren 
country,  I  pan^e  to  a  deserted  church,  where  the  road  forks.  I 
took  the  wrong  toad,  which  led  me  out  of  my  po^rse  among  a 
number  of  plantations.  I  found  the  inhabitants  were  princip^ly 
Irish  people,  by  one  of  whom  I  was  informed  of  my  mistake,  and 
got  dieections  as  to  the  best  method  of  rectifying  it.  The  family 
were  at  breakfest,  consisting  of  pork,  potatoes,  and  pofiee;  and  I 
was  ho^itably  invited  to  partake,  but  I  declined  it;  and,  pursmng 
the  directions  received,  I  soon  reached  the  wa^<^  road  from  $l^« 
vanntth,  and  arrived  at  Louisville  at  10  o'clo<:k.      » 


Id' 


GBOMIA. 


le  mcthodistii 

womeiii  and 
The  baptists 
itial  religious 
agating  their 
fut  I  did  not 

IjM, 

to  Waynes- 
;  who  to  the 

and  consists 
,  and  court' 
one  half  are 
cultivated  a 
urhood  some 
ver  12  miles, 
es. 

:h  m^  follow* 

or  Louisville 

iming.    Five 

id  descended 

Ihich  I  heard 

ry  is  always 

no  small  de> 

the  United 

;h  a  barren 

iad  forks.    I 

se  among  a 

principally 

[stake,  and 

The  family 

»fiee ;  and  I 

pursuing 

id  from  $^* 


r»l  t 


;;! 


'.•i 


■i.,i 


CHAPTER  V. 

Lmdsoillc* 


_____  ■     *  •  _  ■' "       ^    ■ 

liOUISVILLE  is  the  present  capital  of  the  state  of  Georgia, 
and  is  situated  on  the  north-east  bank  of  the  Ogcchce  river,  70 
miles  from  its  outlet,  and  100  miles  west  from  Savannah.     It  con- 
sists of  about  a  hundred  dwelling  houses,  and  contains  about  550 
inhabitants,  of  whom  nearly  one  half  are  slaves.     It  is  built  on  an 
elevated  situation,  and  there  is  a  pretty  extensive  view  to  the  west- 
ward ;  but  considerable  marsh  effluvia  is  generated  on  the  banks  of 
the  river,  which  renders  the  place  rather  unhealthy.     The  country 
in  tlie  neighbourhood  is  well  cultivated ;  and  Louisville  contains  a 
civil,  well-bred  society.     There  are  ten  dry-goods  and  grocery 
stores  in  the  place,  and  they  have  a  considerable  inland  trade.   Lou- 
isville is  at  present  the  seat  of  government,  but  it  is  about  to  be  rc- 
fnoved  to  Milledgeville,  a  new  settlement*  about  50  miles  distant. 
It  was  my  intention  to  go  further  up  tht»^  country,  and  I  had  e- 
very  thing  prepared  for  that  purpose ;  but  in  the  evening  I  was  sud- 
denly seized  with  a  fever,  which  defeated  my  object,  and  at  one 
time  threatened  very  serious  consequences.     The  day  had  been  un- 
comnionly  hot  and  sultry ;  the  thermometer  stood  as  high  as  93^' 
in  the  shade.     In  the  evening  there  was  a  cool  thunder  gust,  and 
the  night  got  very  close  and  sultry.     I  went  to  bed  early ;  but  I 
had  scarcely  lain  down  when  I  found  the  fever  come  on  with  ex- 
treme violence.     I  was  in  danger  of  suffocation,  and  .ran  to  the 
window  to  get  fresh  air;  but  all  was  sti|l — there  was  not  a  breath 
of  air  stirring*     I  observed  three  beds  in  the  room,  empty,  and 
thought  I  would  try  an  experiment :  I  v'i'apped  myself  up  in  a 
blanket,  and  taking  all  the  clothes  of  the  three  beds,  I  threw  them, 
over  me.     I  had  a  small  bottle  of  Madeira  wine  prepared  for  the 
journey,  of  which  I  took  a  little,  and  laid  it  at  my  head.     My  puis0 
rose  to  130,  and  I  suffered  the  most  excruciating  pain  for  about 
half  an  hour,  when  a  profuse  perspiration  broke  out  and  relievedt 
me.    I  partook  freely  of  the  wine,  and  kept  up  the  perspiration 
until  morning,  when  the  fever  was  quite  gone ;  but  I  was  debilitated 
to  such  a  degree  that  I  could  hardly  stand. 

On  getting  up,  I  judged,  it  e3^«di'ent  to  take  medial  advio^ 
and  applied  to  a  Dr.  PowcU,  who  prescribed  ^ome  m(idiiciae^  and 


^ 


46 


TX4VELS   IN 


!^M    'Ni 


advised  me  to  decline  going  further  up  tlie  country  at  present,  the 
season  being  quite  too  far  advanced  for  travelling.  He  recom- 
mended to  stop  two  or  three  days  in  Louisville,  and  then  to  cross 
over  to  Augusta  by  the  way  of  Richmond  Springs,  where  I  could 
stop  a  £qw  days,  and  in  case  I  found  I  could  not  travel  from  Au- 
gusta on  horseback,  I  could  take  the  stage.  This  advice  I  resolved 
to  follow,  and  made  my  arrangementu  accordingly. 

Having,  in  consequence  of  this  determinalion,  a  little  time  to 
spare,  I  wished  tp  apply  it  to  the  best  advantage,  and  I  was  kindly 
assisted  by  my  friend  Dr.  Powell.  He  invited  me  to  his  house,  and 
introduced  me  to  Mrs.  Powell,  a  very  sensible  judicious  lady,  by 
whom  I  was  treated  with  marked  attention. 

The  doctor  and  his  lady  gave  me  every  information  that  could 
be  desired,  and  I  was  finally  invited  to  take  a  bed  at  their  house, 
by  which  means  I  was  relieved  from  tlie  bustle  of  a  public  tavern, 
and  the  still  more  disagreeable  sting  of  the  musquctoes  with  whicl^ 
the  bedrooms  in  it  were  infested. 

On  Friday,  the  4th  of  July,  I  |iad  quite  recovered  from  my  fn- 
dispositioD,  and  walked  out  in  the  morning  to  see  the  statC'-house. 
It  is  a  good  building  of  brick,  about  50  feet  square,  and  consists  of 
two  stories,  having  three  apartments  each,  and  a  large  lobby.  The 
l^ouse  of  representatives  meet  in  an  apartment  on  the  lower  floor, 
f nd  the  other  two  are  occupied  as  the  secretary's  office,  and  the 
land  office.  Tbfe  upper  story  consists  of  the  senate  chamber,  the 
executive  office,  and  the  treai$ury.  The  offices  were  all  shut  ex- 
cept the  land  office ;  I  wept  into  it,  and  saw  a  map  of  the  newly 
acquired  territory,  or  purchase^  as  it  is  called ;  concerning  whicli 
t^e  le^lature  had  rjecently  pi^ssed  fin  act  th^t  was  the  subject  of 
•onsideral^le  aniipadversion  in  the  state. 

This  territory  is  .situated  between  the  Oakmulgee  and  Oco- 
nee rivers ;  and  was  lately  acquired  in  exchange  with  one  of  the 
Indian  tribes.  The  land  is  said  to  be  rich  and  valuable;  and  it  is 
Tery  extensive,  consisting  of  about  100  tracts,  of  ^2  miles  by  8.  It 
is  to  be  disposed  of  by  tottery,  in  which  everv  citizpn  of  the  United 
States  who' has  resided  three  years  in  Georgia,  is  entitled  to  a  draw 
for  200  acres ;  and  those  who'j^et  the  prizes  have  tp  pay  12  dollars, 
being  the  expence  of  surveying  only. 

This  I  regard  ns  a  very  improper  way  of  disposing  of  public  pfo- 
porty^  and  it  is  peculiarly  baneful  to  practise  it  under  the  reprer 
sentatiTf  system. '  Property,  when  public^  belongs  to  every  member 


be 


at  present,  tlie 
.  He  recom- 
I  then  to  cross 
where  I  could 
ravel  from  Au- 
Ivice  I  resolved 

i  little  time  to 
d  I  was  kindly 
his  house,  and 
;ious  lady,  by 

ion  that  could 
t  their  house, 
public  tavern, 
es  with  whlcl^ 

i  from  my  \n- 

le  state-house* 

md  consists  of 

lobby.     The 

e  lower  floor, 

ffice,  and  the 

chamber,  the 

all  shut  ex- 

of  the  newly 

eming  whicli 

be  subject  of 

and  Ocor 
one  of  the 
e ;  and  it  is 
es  by  8.  It 
the  United 
xl  to  a  draw 
12  dollars, 

public  pfo- 
the  reprer 
»ry  member 


GIOBGIA.  4T 

of  the  community,  and  no  alienation  ought  to  takt  place  without 
securing  alike  the  righu  of  all ;  but  this  can  never  be  done  by  a  lot- 
tery, which  is  a  game  of  chance,—* and  all  cannot  be  gainers.  To  the 
gainer  it  is  more  than  well— ho  geU  an  advantage  over  his  neigh- 
bour, and  is  satisfied;  but  who  indemnifies  the  loser? 

In  this  case  would  it  not  have  been  bf^tter  hr  the  state  to  hav# 
retained  it,  and  sold  it  out  at  the  market  price?  Hie  funds  arising 
from  it  might  have  been  usefully  applied  in  making  roads  and 
bridges,  in  improving  the  navigation  of  rivers,  draining  marshes, 
&c.  Legislators  have  a  most  important  trust  reposed  in  them, 
and  should  never  sacrifice  great  national  objects  to  obtain  tempo- 
rary popularity. 

This  beiNg  the  anniversary  of  American  independence,  the  day 
was  ushered  in  by  the  firing  of  great  guns ;  and  military  companies 
had  collected  in  Louisville,  from  the  whole  country  round.  On 
my  return  to  the  tavern,  I  found  a  considerable  number  of  th« 
military  assembled  there.  I  was  waited  on  by  a  committee  of  the 
artillery  company,  and  received  a  very  polite  invitation  to  dine 
with  them,  which  I  accepted  with  pleasure,  being  anxious  to  ob» 
serve  the  mode  of  celebrating  this-  day,  so  important  in  the  annaltf 
of  America. 

About  3  o'clock  we  sat  down  to  dinaer.  The  captain  took  hi» 
place  at  the  head  of  the  table,  the  oldest  lieutenant  at  the  loot ; 
the  committee  gave  the  different  orders,  and  all  were  on  an  equal 
footing.    Several  of  the  state  ofiicers  dined  with  them. 

After  dinner  they  drank  Madeira  wine  to  a  series  of  toasts,  one 
for  each  state,  which  had  been  previously  prepared.  Among  the 
number  were  "  The  day  we  celebrate;"  "  The  land  we  live  in;" 
**  the  president  of  the  United  States;"  **  Memory  of  general 
Washington."  **  Memory  of  Benjamin  Franklin."  Memory  of 
John  Pierce,"  &c.  Each  toast  was  followed  by  a  discharge  of 
artillery,  and  the  music  played  an  appropriate  air.  A  numoer  of 
excellent  songs  wei'e  sung,  and  the  afternoon  was  spent  with  grea^ 
conviviality  and  good  humour. 

Having  several  calls  to  make  in  the  town,  I  left  the  table  early, 
but  returned  again  in  the  evening,  when  I  found  that  the  cordU^ 
drop  had  added  greatly  to  the  elevation  of  the  animal  ^irits  of 
the  company.  They  had  also  received  an  addition  to  their  awni* 
ber,  by  several  military  officers  high  in  command,  among  whom 
wa^  major-general  Jackson,     Having  occasion  to  |pYe  n  tomist,  I 


tii,. 


IH 


iJI  THAVILS   IV 

availed  myself  of  that  opportunity,  to  impress  them  with  favour- 
able sentiments  towards  my  native  country.  America  had  been 
long  regarded  with  a  jealous  eye  by  the  councils  of  Britain,  and 
im-almost  total  alienation  of  affection  was  the  consequence.  I 
knew  that  Mr.  Fox*8  administration  was  favourably  disposed  to- 
wards America,  and  I  was  inclined  as  far  as  I  had  opportunity, 
to  impress  the  Americans  with  that  belief.  Accordingly,  after 
thanking  the  company  for  the  honour  they  had  conferred  upon 
ihe,  atid  assuring  them  of  my  own  friendly  regard  for  the  country, 
I  propbsed  as  a  toast,  "  Mr.  Fox,  and  the  independent  whigs  of 
Britain.  May  their  joint  endeavours  with  the  government  of  the 
United  States  be  the  means  of  reconciling  the  difibrences  between 
the  two  countries;  and  to  the  latest  posterity  may  Americans  and 
Britons  hail  one  another  as  brothers  and  as  friends."  This  was 
bordially  received,  and  drank  accordingly;  and  immediately  after 
1  was  introduced  to  and  politely  received  by  the  visiting  officers. 

The  whole  of  my  observations  in  this  place  tended  to  convince 
me,  that  the  American  character  was  very  indiflbrently  under- 
stood in  Britain;  and,  indeed,  very  much  misrepresented.  I 
ina  satisfied  from  every  thing  I  saw  and  heard,  that  there  was 
no  animosity  against  the  British  people  whatever;  and  that  the 
animosity  against  the  British  government  was  the  consequence 
of  what  they  conceive  to  be  a  series  of  injuries  long  persevered  in, 
and  some  of  them  even  justified  on  the  score  of  privilege. 

Great  mistakes  may  be  coihmitted,  by  judging  of  the  American 
character  from  what  is  to  be  seen  in  the  seaports.  Nothing  can 
be  more  erroneous  than  a  judgment  so  formed.  The  commercial 
cities  of  America  are  like  those  of  other  countries,  and  principle 
is  oflen  sacrificed  at  the  shrine  of  commerce ;  while  a  considerable 
part  of  the  commerce  of  the  United  States  is  carried  on  by  fo- 
reigners, each  so  anxious  to  extend  the  trade  with  his  native 
"Country,  in  which  he  is  most  interested,  that  the  tone  of  national 
Sentiment  is  often  lost,  or  but  indistinctly  seen,  in  the  conflicting 
opinions  which  are  every  day  promulgated. 

To  view  the  American  character  fairly,  we  must  go  into  the 
interior  of  the  country,  and  there  the  first  remark  will  probably 
be,  that  the  inhabitants  have  a  spirit  of  independence,  and  wT. 
brodk  no  superiority^  Every  man  is  conscious  of  his  own  political 
importance,  and  will  suffer  none  to  treat  him  with  disrespect. 
Kor  is  this  disposition  confined  to  one  rank;  it  pervades  the  whole 


m 


lUl 


piJ 
Tc 


GBOXt!IA«tt 


49 


I  with  favour' 
Mica  had  been 
f  Britain,  and 
onsequence.    I 
ly  disposed  to- 
\d  opportunity, 
sor^ingly,  after 
:onferred  upon 
or  the  country, 
tident  whigs  of 
ernmcnt  of  the 
(rences  between 
Americans  and 
Is.'*    This  vras 
imediately  after 
[siting  officers, 
ed  to  convince 
Ibrently  under- 
represented.    I 
that  there  was 
and  that  the 
e  consequence 
lersevered  in, 
ivilege. 
the  American 
Nothing  can 
le  commercial 
and  principle 
considerable 
ied  on  by  fo- 
ith  his  native 
nc  of  national 
he  conflicting 

go  into  the 
I  will  probably 
pnce,  and  w';'. 
own  political 
th  disrespect 
Ides  the  whole 


a 


^iind  is  probably  the  best  guarantee  for  the  contmuanoe  of  the 
Jlibcrty  and  independence  of  the  country. 

I     It  has  been  remarked,   that  this  disposition  may    encourage 

^rudeness ;  but  I  have  not  yet  seen  it.  As  the  people  will  bend  to  no 

superiority,  they  really  affect  none ;  and  I  am  impressed  with  the 

belief,  that  it  is  a  stranger's  own  fault,  if  he  does  not  feel  very 

liappy  among  them. 

c,    Saturday,  July  5th.     I  left  Louisville  at  5  o'clock  in  the  mom-* 
Ing,  and  travelled  through  a  barren,  sandy  country,  twenty  mllea 
to  breakfast.     From  thence,  1  travelled  eight  miles  more,  through 
pine  woods,  to  Richmond  Springs,  which  I  reached  to  dinner. 
Towards  the  springs,  the  country  gets  elevated,  and  agreeably 
uneven ;   but  the  soil  is  miserably  poor.      The  springs  have  no 
other  medicinal  quality  than  what  is  conferred  by  limestone,  of 
which  there  is  here  a  considerable  bed ;  and  there  is  a  fine  rivu- 
let,   wliich  Mr.  Posner,  the  proprietor,  has  very  judiciously  di- 
verted iuto  a  bathing-house ;  and,  at  a  great  cxpence,  has  conver- 
ted the  whole  into  bathing  quarters,  with  ample  accommodations. 
I  staid  two  days  at  this  place,  and  found  my  situation  very  com- 
fortable.   I  had  an  opportunity  of  bathing  in   the  pure  spring 
water  once  or  twice  arday»  and  had  limestone  water,  pure  from 
the  rock,  to  drink.     Our  victuals  were  good,  and  the  cookery  ex- 
cellent.    My  health  I  found  re-established,  and  my  spirits  recruit- 
ed ;  so  that  every  thing  concurred  to  render  the  place  agreeable. 
And  yet  this  place,  which  might  be  so  beneficial  to  Georgia 
is  neglected.     Mrs.   Posner  is  a  woman  of  colour,  and  is  disliked 
by  the  Georgian  ladies,  who  will  not  go  to  her  house.     Where 
the  ladies  will    ot  go,   the  gentlemen   will  not  go,  and  so  poor 
Mr.  Posner  does  not  get  a  proper  reward  for  his  exertions,  and 
the  Georgians  lose  the  benefit  of  one  of  the  sweetest  summer  re- 
treats in  all  the  country. 

I  was  really  sorry  to  learn  this  tale,  for  I  was  exceedingly  well 

pleased  with  madam  Posner's  attention.    Tlie  old  man  is  a  sort 

i  of  poet  too,  and,  though  his  riiymes  are  not  to  be  compared  with 

I  those  of  Pope  or  Milton,  yet  they  are  humourously  recited,  and 

1  in  a  dialect  that  never  fails  to  excite  risibility.     He  favoured  me 

-r  widi  a  copy  of  verses,  which  he  addressed  to  a  little  swindling 

I  Jew  of  my  acquaintance  in  Savannah,  who,  he  said,  had  cheated 

him ;  and  of  which  the  concluding  stanza  will  be  sufficient  to  sati»- 

.  i'y  the  reader  oi  his  poetical  powers. 

7 

4 


50 


TltAVfLS   IN 


V     B«t it  wrely  wa»  a grc»t  «n,   •      "  '      '  r   >' 

To  send  me  coininon  whisky  ia  place  of  Holland*  gin*  .      .  t.  .  . 
The  worst  remains  behind,— 
To  send  me  common  Malaga,  in  place  of  good  Maderia  wine. 

Monday,  July  7th.  Set  out  for  Augusta,  at  4  o'clock  in  the 
momii^g.  The  road,  which  is  pretty  good,  runs  through  a  hilly, 
uncultivated  tract  of  country,  on  which  there  are  some  settle- 
mcntSj  with  several  creeks,  and  saw  and  grist  mills.  I  reached 
Augusta,  w^ck  is  sixteen  miles  from  the  springs,  at  9  o'clock. 

'^U»'-'-'f':?i.l>iirv'  >^r««?Sv"    CHAPTER   VI,,  •;-;?     .l-vr,-. 

"  '   ^"~  '     '     AugustU, — South  Carolinaf^— Savannah* 

A.UGUSTA  is  situated  on  a  handsome  plain,  on  the  south  sidb 
of  Savannah  River,  127  miles  from  Savannah,  and  contains  about 
2iO0  inhabitants,  of  whom  above  one-half  are  slaves.  The  public 
buildings  are,  two  churches,  an  academy,  a  court-house,  jail,  a 
market->house,  and  several  public  warehouses.  The  town  is  at  the 
head  of  large  boat  navigation,  and  carries  on  a  very  extensive  and 
profitable  trade,  both  with  Savannah  and  the  back  country. 
Many  of  the  merchants  are  wealthy,  and  import  their  goods; 
and  the  greater  part  of  the  others  purchase  in  New  York.  The 
towif  was  orignally  settled  by  emigrants  from  Scotland :  but  the 
i^ociety  is  now  very  mixed,  and  probably  those  of  Irish  extraction 
are  the  most  numerous.  The  inhabitants  are  in  general  well- 
infocmed,  and  have  a  considerable  taste  for  literature.  They  are 
affable  in  their  deportment,  and  polite  and  hospitable  to  strangers. 
The  country  round  Augusta  is  agreeably  diversified,  and  well 
cultiMated. .  The  whole  plun,  on  which  Augusta  stands,  is  re- 
markably fertile;  and  towards  the  south-west,  the  country  rises 
into  considerable  hills,  interspersed  with  fertile  plains,  remarka- 
bly favourable  for  the  culture  of  cotton ;  and  the  cotton  planta- 
tions are  ill  a,  very  thriving  state.  This  iS'  reckoned  the  boundary 
between  the  high  and  low  country.  The  falls  in  the  river  are 
thre;^  miles  above  Augusta,  and  immediately  on  leavmg  the  town 
for  the  westward,  the  great  contrast  between  this  and  the  low 
country  is  seen :  in  place  of  swamps,  marshes,  and  sandy  deserts, 
the  senses  are  gratified  by  high  rising  grounds,  rich  verdure  in 
the  woods,  and  clear  strean^i^  of  water.  ..       .    , 


o'clock  in  the 
rough  a  hilly, 
e  some  settle- 
Is.  I  reached 
t  9  o'clock. 


the  south  side 
contains  about 
}.    The  public 
t-honse,  jail,  a 
;  town  is  at  the 
Y  extensive  and 
back  country; 
(  their  goods; 
w  York.    The 
and:   but  the 
ish  extraction 
general  well- 
re.     They  are 
le  to  strangers, 
fied,  and  well 
stands,    i»  re> 
country  rises 
ns,  remarka- 
otton  planta- 
the  boundary 
the  river  are 
ving  the  town 
and  the  low 
sandy  deserts, 
|ch  verdure  in 


SOtJTH  CAKOLIKA. 

I  remained  in  Augusta,  from  the  7th  to  the  14  of  July,  during 

[which  period,  I  made  several  little  excurtions  to  the  country,  to 

ieee  the  cotton  plantations,  the  greater  part  of  which  were  in  a 

thriving  state.      The  river  is  here  500  yards  broad,    and  very 

deep;  and  I  found  the  trade  upon  it  to  exceed  my  expectation. 

The  weather  was  hot  and  sultry,  the  thermometer  varying  irom 

^8"  to  Q***,  though  one  day  it  fell  as  low  as  72®.     I  was  well 

^pleased  with  the  civilities  of  the  inhabitants,  and  I  left  Augusta 

with  sentiments  of  friendly  regard  towards  them.  '^ 

A  Mr.  Scarborough,  of  North  Carolina,  gave  me  a  very  warm 
J  invitation  to  visit  him  when  I  was  in  the  upper  country,  and  I 
resolved  to  cross  the  Savannah  River,  and  return  by  his  place. 
1  accordingly  left  Augusta  on  the  14th  of  Jaly,  at  11  o'clock, 
and,  travelling  about  three  miles  through  the  level  plain  on  whiclr 
the  city  stands,  I  crossed  the  river  by  a  flat  boat.  Vhis  road  risev 
on  the  Carolina  side,  to  a  considerable  eminence,  but  the  soil  is 
poor  and  sandy.  At  five  miles  from  the  river,  I  called  at  a  very 
li<  '^lome  plantation,  belonging  to  a  Mr.  Taylor,  by  whom  I 
^or,  ij^  \taUy  detained  to  dinner.  A  planter  from  the  nei^- 
bo.v'  r  J  was  there,  and,  as  his  plantation  lay  on  my  route,  I 
availed  myself  ^of  his  company,  and  had  a  very  agreeable  ride, 
pf  twelve  miles,  to  the  saw-mill  and  store  of  a  Scot^  gentleman, 
where  I  stopped  for  the  night.  >  *-        -  ■ 

On  the  15th,  at  day-break,  I  procieedetf  on  my  journey, 
through  a  low,  swampy,  barren  country,  where  the  road  forked 
so  often,  that  I  travelled  with  difficulty;  but,  after  missing  my 
way  several  times,  I  reached  Mr.  Scarborough's  |it  11  o'clock, 
where  I  found  a  niost  hospitable  welcome. 

On  my  way  I  passed  many  creeks  and  saw-mills,  ahd  I  learned 
that  a  considerable  trade,  in  this  part  of  the  country,  consists  in 
sowing  timber  into  boards  and  planks,  called /««*^,  and  floating 
them  down  the  river  to  a  market.  '  "^  ' ,  ;''"    '.    :  ' 

Mr,  Scarborough  has  a  very  comfortable  estabHshment,  con* 
sisting  of  a  good  farm,  a  store,  and  saw-mill;  and,  being  much 
respected,  hsis  the  best  trade  in  this  part  of  the  country.  Oa 
going  into  the  store,  I  was  surprised  to  observe  the  vast  variety 
of  articles  it  contained ;  consisting  of  dry  goods,  groceries,  hard- 
ware, earthenware,  medicines,  &c.  I  was  informed,  that  the 
mode  of  doing  hn'sinefls  was  to  give  a  credit  to  the  planters  till 
(he'cropwafli  ready^  fo^  market^  and  then  to  take  thdr  surplus 


Wi'l' 


fiS  .aThavbls  on   '. 

produce*  consUting  principally  of  cotton,  in  payment.  The  busi- 
ness was  conducted  by  a  discreet  Englishman,  and  they  had  an  ex- 
cellent run ;  but  I  learned  that  country  stores  had  multiplied  to 
tuch  an  extent,  that  the  business  was  overdone  generally,  and 
people  would  need  to  bo  very  captious  in  dealing  with  country 
merchants. 

Having  been  mqst  hospitably  entertained  by  this  &mily  for  two 
days,  I  took  my  departure  for  Savannah,  on  Thursday,  ITtli 
July,  and  rode  28  miles  through  a  very  barren  country,  contain- 
ing few  settlements,  to  the  honse  of  a  Mr^  Pum],  where  I  stop* 
ped  for  the  night*        .  ..^u  «.■«,  •     rui  niniiiii 

Friday,  18th,  Set  out  at  daylight,  and  travelled  through  a 
more  dismal  country  than  any  that  I  had  yet  seen.  From  Mrs* 
Punn's  ^  Sisters's  ferry,  on  the  Savannah  river,  14>  miles  distant, 
there  is  hardly  a  single  se^tlem^n^,  The  country  is  perfectly  level, 
^xcept  towards  the  river,  where  there  ar^  a  few  sand-hills ;  tho 
Fpods  are  mostly  pine,  and  I  foi^nd  spmq  settlements  had  been 
attempted,  and  abandoned  by  the  settlers.  At  one  of  these  I 
xnet  with  a  considerable  disappointment;  I  came  to  a  fork  of  the 
road,  and,  see^g  a  plantation  at  a  distance,  I  rode  to  it,  to  inquire 
the  riight  way;  but^  lo  !  qn  my  arrival  there,  1  found  it  iuhabit- 
^  by  goats  only.     .«  ,«w»**,  aio.  Jri.ifc^i  *j  ' . 

I  arrived  at  the  river  about  nine  o'clock,  and  crossed  the  ferry 
in  a  flat  boat,  '^e  river  is  here  about  250  yards  broad,  aiid  flows 
with  a  majestic  sweap.  I  travelled,  nearly  f^  mile  through  a  muddy 
^wamp,  in  which  the  horse  was  frequently  up  to  the  knees,  and 
J  w^s  much  annoyed  by  musquetoes.  f  vom  this  swamp,  the  ground 
rises  abruptly,  to  a  considerable  elevation,  and  bears  evident 
marks  of  having  been  at  one  time  the  bank  of  the  river.  From 
hence  I  travelled  about  a  mile,  ^hen  I  came  into  the  Savannah 
road,  not  far  from  King's  tavern,  mentioned  iix  the  fourth  chap- 
ter. I  found  the  Savannah  road  now  dry  and  gopd,  and  I  tra- 
velled on  with  great  expedition  to  Berry's,  where  the  da^  being 
very  hot  and  s^ultry,  I  proposed  to  remain  for  the  night. 

Towards  two  o'clock,,  the  weather  became  cool,  with  |in  east 
wind,  and  I  set  out  for  Savannah;  but  I  had  not  travelled  £ur, 
when  I  saw  all  the  signs  of  an  approaching  storm.  To  the  east, 
the  atmosphere  was  black  and  dismal;  the  wind  was  irregular, 
and  sometimes  whistled  violently;  I  could  see  the  Ughtning  flahh 
in  the  qlouds,  and  heard  the  Uiuuder  roar  at  a  distance;  but  \ 


I 

..Mi 


ws 


■§ 


TUB  ATLANTIC  dCIAN. 


53 


nt.  The  busi- 
tbey  had  an  ex- 
i  multiplied  to 
generally,  and 
g  with  country 

I  family  for  two 
'hursday,  17tli 
untry,  contain- 
,  where  I  stop* 

led  through  a 
.  From  Mrs: 
i  miles  distant, 
perfectly  level, 
sand-hills;  the 
ents  had  been 
me  of  these  I 
>  a  fork  of  the 
to  it,  to  inquire 
und  it  inhabit-: 

OBsed  the  ferry 

road,  and  flows 

Qugh  a  muddy 

he  knees,  and 

np,  the  ground 

bear?  evident 

river.     From 

he   Savannah 

fourth  chap- 

pd,  and  I  tra- 

the  d^  being 

Jght. 

with  »n  east 
travelled  fari 
To  the  easti 
was  irregular, 
igbtning  flaiih 
stance;  but  \ 


^as  twnpted  by  the  coolness  of  the  air  to  proceed,  and  observing 
|that  the  settlements  were  pretty  thick  by  the  way  skle,  I  resolved 
fcot  to  take  shelter  until  there  was  absolute  necessity.     While  I  wai 
^ineditating  thus,  I  was  suddenly  and  dreadfully  alarmed.  A  stream 
^f  electric  fluid,  apparently  as  thick  as  a  man's  wrist,  darted  sud- 
denly from  a  black  cloud,  almost  right  over  my  head,  and  divid- 
ing  in  the  middle  of  the  road,  a  few  yards  before  me,  struck  the 
l^es  on  each  side,  with  a  shock  which  made  the  whole  woods 
j-ing.    This  was  instantaneously  followed  by   such  a  peal  of  thun- 
ider,  as  made  my  horse  spring  two  or  three  feet  high.     I  rode 
i,with  increased  speed,  resolved  to  take  shelter  in  the  first  house* 
but  seeing  no  immediate  appearance  of  rain  I  kept  on  my  course 
to  Dasher's,   20  miles  from   Savannah.    Having  stopped  her* 
some  little  time,  I  observed  the  storm  to  spend  its  force  in  the 
eastward,  and,  being  satisfied  it  was  over,  set  out  for  Savannah; 
and,  after  an  agreeable  ride,  reached  the  city  at  seven  o'clock  ii| 
the  evening.    I  travelled,  this  day,  52  miles;  and  my  whole  jour-. 
Iiey  was  about  SQO^ 

I  remained  in  Savannah  until  the  27th  of  July.  The  weather 
was  very  hot  and  sultry,  but  the  city  continued  pretty  healthy.  I 
was  surprised  to  observe  the  vast  emigration  to  the  northward  at 
this  time,  every  vessel  tor  New  York,  Philadelphia,  Boston  or  Bal- 
timore, being  quite  crowded  with  passengers.  I  had  once  an  inten- 
tion of  spending  a  few  months  on  the  sea  islands  with  a  friend,  from 
whom  I  had  a  very  warm  invitation;  but,  in  consequence  of  letter* 
from  New  York,  I  was  induced  to  alter  my  determination,  and  go 
to  that  city* 


:-^^^' 


hu  o.J: 


CHAPTER  VII. 


■  rf 


T: 


I- 


4  him^  tv-^m^--      Passage  to  New  York. 

Having  arranged  my  business,  and  fixed  upon  a  plan  of  cor- 
respondence with  my  friend  in  Savannah,  I  engaged  a  passage  on 
board  the  brig  Sally,  captain  A.nsdell ;  passage  money  20  dollaric 
and  stores  about  28.  My  fellow-passengers  were  a  Mr.  M*G^ 
and  Mr.  Enoe,  of  Savannah;  Mr.  Sayre,  of  New  York;  and  a 
^r.  Scott,  from  the  West  Indies. 
W^  went  on  boards  on  Sunday  morning,  Uie  87th  July,  at  liz 


'if 


n 


r:'; 


uw. 


lt'\    ' 


mni-^ 


i^  .>   ,ji  TBAVBLS   ON 

o*clocky  and  at  half  past  six  let  tail.  The  breeze  was  light,  but 
lair;  aD<^  the  tide  being  in  our  farour,  we  glided  down  the  river 
,%mj  pleasantly }  passed  the  lighthouse  at  1 1  o'clock,  and  at  12 
crossed  the  bar,  and  discharged  the  pilot.  New  York  is  distant 
from  heace,  by  calculation,  615  geographical  miles,  in  a  direct 
Jine  {  b\it  the  projection  of  the  coast  at  cape  Hatteras  obliges  ves« 
sek  to  steer  considerably  to  the  eastward,  so  that  they  have  to  sail 
jpearly  800  miles*  They  generally  make  sail  for  the  gulf  streaiq 
in  going  north,  that  they  may  have  the  benefit  of  the  current. 

We  -were  fkvonrefl  with  a  southerly  wind,  and  kept  a  course  a 
little  to  the  north  oi  east,  till  we  reached  the  longitude  of  78*^, 
when  we  steered  a  course  nearly  parallel  to  the  coast,  about  north- 
east^ Here  we  were  in  the  middle  of  the  gulf  stream,  which 
by  calculation^  carried  our  vessel  •  37  miles  \n  24  hours,  which 
wo^d  be  a  current  of  little  more  than  a  mile  and  a  half  an  hour ; 
but  it  ift  generally,  supposed  that  the  currept,  at  this  place,  is  up< 
wfurds  of  two  miles^  . 

We  continued  to  have  a  favourable  breeze,  and  made  a  good 
sudf  without  meeting  with  any  circumstance  worthy  of  remark, 
%ntil  Saturday,  the  2d  Aiigust,  when  we  experienced  a  very  se- 
vere galef  which  almost  upset  tl^e  vessel.  The  wind,  which  had 
been  hitherto  from  the  south  md  west,  shifted  to  the  south-east, 
amd  was  accompanied  by  thick  foggy  weather.  We  were  within 
80  or  4)0  utiles^  of  Saady  Hook,  apd  the  wind  was  fair;  but  the 
pJe  Increased,  and  the  weather  was  too  thick  to  see  a  pilot  boat ; 
fo  that  the  captain  judged  it  expedient  to  stand  out  to  sea.  A  gnn^ 
boat  was  a  little  astern,  and  followed  our  example.  The  gale  in« 
creased  almost  to  a  hurricane,  accompanied  by  thick  rainy  weather; 
the  captain  was  carrying  as  much  sail  as  possible,  so  a^  to  weather 
Long  Island,  which,  by  calculation,  was  now  but  20  miles  to  lee- 
ward. Being  a  good  deal  accustomed  to  rough  weather,  I  wa^ 
lolhng  in  an  after-birth,  looking  out  at  the  cabin  window,  apd  ber 
holding  the  effect  of  the  gale  on  the  ocean :  vifhen,  all  of  a  suddent, 
I  ibund  t)ie  vessel  heel  to  leeward,  and  heard  a  great  noise  on  deck^ 
r  started  tilr  with  an  intention  of  going  upon  dedt^  but  thefirei^l 
wattpthfron'her  beam  ends,  and  I  had  to  swmg  my6^  albiij^hy 
die-cabin  births ;  and  on  reaching  the  gangway,  I  found  the"  pas^ 
aengersJE^  crowded  tntoit^  and  in  tears.  I  reached  it  just  in  tifna 
to  hear  the  captain  cry  "  cut  the  haUiardi^'*  aiid  immediately  the 
wtf  shivered  to  >  ^keti^  and  t^e  vessi^  ri^hted^    Bat'  our 


(,'1^' 


was  light,  but 
down  the  river 
ick,  and  at  12 
[orli.  is  distant 
18,  in  a  direct 
as  obliges  ves* 
ey  have  to  sail 
lie  gulfstrean) 
e  current. 
Lept  a  course  a 
igitude  of  78*?, 
:,  about  north-' 
stream,  which 
hours,  which 
.  half  an  hour ; 
is  place,  isup^ 


THE  ATLANTIC  OCEAW.  55 

danger  was  by  no  means  over ;   the  vessel  had  not  now  Ae  ikecea- 
Jiary  sail  to  carry  her  out  to  sea ;   and,  the  captain  teid,   if  tfte 
^ale  continued,  we  must  inevitably  be  driven  ashore  on  Long  Is- 
land.     He  was  much  affected,  and  in  tears.    He  was  a  pleasant 
little  man,  and  I  really  felt  for  him.     I  had  heard  somewhere  that 
iouth-east  gales  on  the  coast  of  America,  seldom  lasted  above  IG 
0r  12  hours  J  and,  as  this  one  had  now  continued  upwards  of  nine 
fcours,  I  endeavoured  to  console  him  with  the  idea,  that  the  chance 
was  greatly  in  our  favour.     He  aflmitted  it  was  so,  but  could  not 
Jhelp  being  affected   while  there    as  any  chance  against  us,  and  the 
Ivessel  in  her  present  state.    While  we  were  speakings  I  chanced  to 
look  to  the  south-west,   and  observed  a  small  speck  of  blue  sky 
through  the  turbulent  atmosphere.  I  pointed  it  out  to  the  captain, 
and  1  never  saw  a  roan  so  sensibly  affected  with  sudden  joy.   He  af- 
firmed the  ^le  was  over,  and  in  a  few  minutes  all  was  still  and  calm. 
The  wind  shifted  to  the  north-west  blowing  a  delightful  cool  breeze, 
and  shortly  after  there  was  not  a  cloud  to  be  seen  in  the  horizon.  We 
put  about  the  vessel,  and  stood  in  for  the  land ;   but  the  wind  was 
now  right  against  us,  and  we  made  little  progress.  However  we  had 
time  to  patch  up  our  sails,  and  made  the  best  of  our  way  towards  our 
destined  port.   The  weather  continued  favourable,  and  on  the  3d  of 
August,  at  daylight,  we  saw  the  high  lands  of  Never  Sink ;  at  10 
o'clock,  we  saw  the  light-house,  distant  10  or  12  miles;    soon  af> 
ter  which  we  had  a  fine  view  of  Long  Island,  Staten  Iiiland,  the 
bay,  and  numerous  vessels  inward  bound.  The  breeze  continued 
light,  so  that  it  was  4  o'clock  before  we  received  a  pilot ;  after 
whi^h  we  came  to  anchor  five  or  six  miles  south-east  of  the  Hght- 
house.     This  pilot  gave  us  information   regarding  the  death  of 
John  Peirce,  the  seaman  who  was  killed  by  a  shot  from  the  Lean- 
der  }  and  told  us  that  he  had  beep  on  bo|ird  several  coasting  vessels 
himself  ^      :h  had  been  fired  at  by  the  Cambrian  and  Leander,  on 
the  conduct  ot  whose  officers  he  reflected  in  very  bitter  terms. 

On  the  morning  of  the  4th  we  set  sail,  but  the  breeze  died  aw«y 
in  a  short  time,  and  we  again  came  to  anchor  within  ha]f  a  mile  of 
the  beach,  a  little  to  the  south  of  the  light-house.  At  11  a  sniali 
breeze  sprung  up  from  the  south,  and  we  again  weighed  anchor. 
At  half  past  12  w^  passed  the  light-house,  and,  the  breeze  increaf- 
ing,  we  continued  our  course  at  a  good  rate,  much  gratified  wit^ 
the  prospect  round  us.  Staten  Island,  rising  to  a  considerable  ele- 
vation, and  clothed  with  verdure,  was  right  ahead.    Long  Island 


I 


\\ 


I 


f--i 


m  1   :  ■ 

M  i 


;.  'ji^i 


t 


<  c 


TRAVELS    In 


was  on  our  right,  with  ft  pretty  view  of  the  Narrows  between  them ; 
the  high  knds  of  Never  Sink,  astern,  and  the  high  lands  of  the 
Jerseys,  to  the  westward ;  with  the  great  confluence  of  waters,  and 
crowded  shipping  formed  altogether  a  most  beautiful  picture :  and 
it  probably  made  a  greater  impression  upon  me  than  it  would  had 
I  arrived  direct  from  Europe,— the  dull  scenery  of  Georgia  and 
South  Carolina  acting  as  a  foih 

At  half  past  two  we  passed  the  Narrows,  the  channel  between 
Long  Island  uid  Staten  Island,  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile 
broad ;  and  immediately  after  New  York,  distant  about  10  miles, 
vnth  the  bay  and  shipping,  opened  to  our  view ;  which  had  a  very 
fine  effect.  At  half  past  3  we  arrived  at  the  quarantine  ground, 
which  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  small  bay  on  the  east  side  of  Sat- 
ten  Island,  and  having  got  a  pass  from  the  healtli  ofiicer,  we  set  sail 
for  New  York.  I  was  very  much  gratified  with  the  view,  in  our 
passage  upwards  There  are  several  islands  in  the  bay,  and  the 
scenery  on  each  side  is  really  beautif**' ;  the  city  too  is  adorned 
with  a  number  of  spires,  which  have  a  \e  effect,  and  in  approach- 
ing it  we  passed  a  pretty  point,  plantei  vith  trees,  ealled  the  Bat- 
tery. But  we  could  not  land  at  the  city.  By  the  health  laws,  ail 
cotton,  after  a  certain  season,  must  be  landed  at  Brooklyn,  on  Long 
Island ;  at  which  we  arrived  at  6  o'clock  in  the  evening.  From 
thence  I  passed  over  to  the  city ;  and  immediately  waited  on  Mr< 
Stewart,  a  native  of  Perth,  in  Scotland,  and  an  old  acquaintance ; 
from  whom,  and  his  amiable  wife,  I  received  a  most  friendly  wel- 
come, and  a  kind  invitation  to  spend  the  summer  with  them^  whiob 
was  cordiidly  accepted*        ^    ,„,  ,.     ,  .  ....,;  >. 


•■'•.  V. 


CHAPTER  VIIL 

New  York* 


(    •'■>!..■. r      tf     J.'  ,*.-:.    iJi^'Vl'-v 


]NeW  YORK  is  situated  on  the  soutli-west  point  of  York  island^ 
at  the  confluence  of  Hudson  Imd  East  rivers^  in  north  latitude  40" 
40'.  The  length  of  the  city  on  East  river  is  nearly  two  miles;  and 
it  attends  along  the  nortli  river  nearly  as  much^  Its  average 
breadth  is  about  one  mile,  and  its  circumference  ux.  It  consists  of 
about  15,000  houses,  including  public  buildings  and  ware-houses; 
•nd  the  inhabitants  are  estimated  at  about  80,000.    By  the  census 


»r 

a.      ] 

i 


:i 


NEW    YOIIK. 


67 


between  them ; 
gh  lands  of  the 
!  of  waters,  and 
il  picture :  and 
in  it  would  had 
»f  Georgia  and 

bannel  between 
ters  of  a  mile 
about  10  miles, 
ich  had  a  very 
antine  ground, 
tast  side  of  Sat- 
icer,  we  set  sail 
i  view,  in  our 
lie  bay,  and  the 
'  too  is  adorned 
nd  in  approach* 
(ialled  the  Bat- 
health  laws,  all 
oklyn,  on  Long 
vening.  From 
waited  on  Mr< 
acquaintance ; 
St  friendly  wel- 
th  them^  whiob 


if  York  island^ 
h  latitude  40° 
wo  miles ;  and 
Its  average 
It  consists  of 
ware-houses; 
By  the  census 


>f  1800,  they  amounted  to  60,489,  but  the  increase  has  bccrt  very 
rreat  since.*     The  houses  are  generally  built  of  brick,  with  slated 
»r  shingled  roofs;  and  many  of  them  arc  handsome. 
The  plan  of  the  city  Is  not  uniform.   In  the  old  part  of  the  town 
^mc  of  the  streets  are  crooked,  and  many  of  them  are  too  narrow ; 
Jl^ut  all  the  modern  part  is  built  on  a  good  plan ;  and  some  of  the 
Mew  streets  are  uncommonly  elegant.     Broadway  is  the  finest  street 
lb  the  city,  and  from  its  importance  and  great  beauty  it  merits  a 
particular  description.     It  commences  at  the  Battery,  on  the  south., 
west  point  of  the  city,  and  runs  in  a  north-east  direction  about  two 
miles  and  a  half,  where  it  forms  a  junction  with  the  Bowery  road. 
The  breadth  of  this  street,  including  the  side  pavements^  is  about 
80  feet,  and  it  is  regular,  during  its  whole  length.     It  is  ornament- 
ed with  rows  of  poplar  trees  on  eftch  side,  and  a  number  of  public 
buildings  arc  situated  on  it,  particularly  the  Custom-house,  Trinity 
Lchurch,  St.  Paul's  church,  the  city  public  buildings,  the  Mechanics' 
I  Hall,  and  the  Hospital.  The  street  rises  by  a  gradual  ascent  from  the 
Battery,  about  half  a  mile,  and  is,  at  its  greatest  elevation,  opposite 
I  the  city  buildings.  Its  course  is  through  the  highest  part  of  the  island. 
Greenwich-street  is  next  in  importance :  it  rises  also  at  the  Battery, 
and,  running  nearly  due  north  upwards  of  two  milcsj  connects  the 
city  with  the  village  of  Greenwich. — Pearl-street  is  bne  of  the  most 
important  in  the  city,  in  point  of  trade;   it  rises  also  near  the  Bat- 
tery, and  runs  nearly  parallel  with  the  East  river  to  Cherry-street » 
from  thence  it  runs  to  the  northward,  and  falls  into  Chatham-street  f 
Cherry-street  is  a  continuation  of  Pearl-street,  and  runs  along  the 
East  river  till  it  is  terminated  by  a  bend  of  the  river. — Bowery- 
lane  is  upwards  of  100  feet  wide,  rises  at  Chatham-street,  and,  con- 
nected with  the  Boston  road,   formK  a  junction  with  Broadway,  as 
before  mentioned.     The  other  most  important  streets  are  Wall- 
street,  where  the  most  of  the  banks  and  public  offices  are  situated, 
Chatham-street,  where  the  theatre  is  situated,  Front-street,  Water- 
street,  and  Broad-street. 

That  part  of  the  city  which  has  been  recently  laid  out  on  East  ri- 
ver is  constructed  on  a  handsome  plan,  the  utreets  crossing  one  ano- 
ther at  right  angles ;  and  there  are  several  public  squares.  Of  these 
there  are  by  far  too  few  in  the  city,  a^nd  they  hardly  merit  notice. 
The  Battery,  before  mentioned,  is  a  pretty  piece  of  ground,  and 

*  By  the  census  of  1810,  the  whole  inhabitants  on  the  island  amounted  to  96,375. 
f  Since  IfiQG,  Pe^rl- Street  has  been  extended  beyond  Chatham-street,  to  Broadway. 

S 


' .  ■  ■ 


'ill" 


n^:: 


58 


TRAVELS    IN 


commands  an  elegant  view  of  the  bay,  islands,  narrows,  and  shipping; 
but  it  is  quite  small,  consisting  of  a  few  acres  only.  There  is  a  small 
triangular  piece  of  ground,  called  the  Park,  in  front  of  the  public 
buildings,  which  is  very  ornamental ;  and  these  are  all  the  public 
walks  of  which  New  York  can  boast  Would  it  not  be  well,  in 
laying  out  cities,  to  nf  ake  a  large  reserve  of  public  property,  while 
land  is  cheap  ?  Hyde  Park  at  London,  the  Green  of  Glasgow,  and 
the  Inches  of  Perth,  are  instances  of  its  utility. 

The  public  buildings  are  numerous.  The  first  in  importance  is 
the  City  Hall,  fronting  the  Park ;  it  is  now  erecting,  of  white  mar- 
ble, and  will,  when  finished,  be  the  most  elegant  building  in  Ame- 
rica,  and  few  in  Europe  will  surpass  it.  The  others  are  Federal 
Hall,  Cuslom-House,  College,  CofTee-House,  Mechanics'  Hall, 
Theatre,  Hospital,  Prison,  Bridewell.  There  are  seven  episcopal 
churches,  five  presbyterian,  two  Dutch,  three  methodist,  two  baptist, 
two  quaker  meeting-houses,  one  German,  one  Lutheran,  and  one 
French  Calvinistic  church,  one  seceder,  one  Scots  reformed  church, 
one  church  each  for  universalists,  congr^ationalists,  Moravians, 
and  Africans,  and  one  Jewish  synagogue. 

There  are  five  public  markets  in  the  city,  of  which  the  principal 
is  the  Fly-market;  and  these  are  well  supplied  with  wholesome  pro* 
visions,  vegetables,  firuit  and  fish ;  and  the  prices  are  generally  rea- 
sonable. A  few  of  them  may  be  quoted.  Bee^  mutton,  and  veal, 
9  to  12  cents*  per  pound;  a  turkey  75;  a  goose  62;  ducks  and 
fowls  about  25  each  ;  eggs  14  per  dozen ;  butter  22  per  lb. ;  tea — 
souchong  75,  hyson  125;  coffee  20  per  lb. ;  sugar  12,  refined  20- 
Bread  is  regulated  by  Hour,  which  is  at  present  8  dollars  per  bar- 
rel. Fish  and  fruit  plenty  and  cheap.  Madeira  wine  2J  dollars 
per  gallon;  claret  3  dollars  per  dozen ;  brandy,  rum,  and  gin,  U 
dollars  per  gallon. 

There  are  a  number  of  schools  in  the  city,  and  the  college,  in 
which  two  of  the  professors  are  Scotsmen,  is  reckoned  a  very  excel- 
lent seminary  of  education.  To  the  north  of  the  city,  near  Green- 
wich, stands  the  state-prison,  modelled  upon  the  plan  of  that  of 
Philadelphia;  and  it  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  most  benevolent  insti- 
tutions ever  established  in  any  country. 

The  city  is  well  situated  for  trade.  Having  a  spacious  harbour, 
and  easy  access  to  the  ocean  at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  and  being 
in  a  central  situation  in  the.  United  States,  it  must  necessarily  al- 

*  A  dollar  exchanges  at  4s.  6d.  sterling ;  and  ai^  cent  is  a  fraction  more  than  a  halfpenny. 


hi 

111 


'ii 


..:       ■:     ■■     .       -1 


JLl 

wh 

ac< 

the 

Gl 

bw 

for 

^ 

thi 

m 

bu 

^m 

we 

't^^H 

th< 

NEW  YOnx. 


59 


fSi  and  shipping; 
There  is  a  small 
)nt  of  the  public 
!  all  the  public 
not  be  well,  in 
property,  while 
of  Glasgow,  and 

n  importance  is 
^,  of  white  mar- 
uilding  in  Ame- 
rs  are  Federal 
echanics*  Hall, 
seven  episcopal 
list,  two  baptist, 
heran,  and  one 
formed  church, 
}ts,  Moravians, 

h  the  principal 
t^holesome  pro* 
generally  rea* 
ttbn,  and  veal, 
ducks  and 
per  lb. ;  ten — 
2,  refined  2a. 
allars  per  bar- 
ine  2^  dollars 
and  gin,  1| 

le  college,  in 
a  very  excel- 
near  Green- 
)lan  of  that  of 
levolent  insti- 

lous  harbour, 
ir,  and  being 
lecessarily  al- 

iinn  a  halfpenny. 


.Ways  command  a  large  share  of  the  foreign  trade  of  the  country ; 

^land,  having  the  command  of  Hudson's  River,  navigable  with  its 

f  iiranches  upwards  of  200  miles,  and  the  East  River,  with  Long  Is^ 

land  Sound,  it  has  a  great  share  of  the  internal  trade  of  Jersey,  of 

^Vermont,  of  Connecticut,  of  Rhode  Island,  and  of  MassachusetU  * 

besides  the  whole  of  the  fertile  interior  country,  which,  on  the  other 

iiand,  furnishes  every  kind  of  produce  and  provisions  by  an  eai^ 

iJ*»rater  carriage,  and  at  a  reasonable  rate. 

I     The  exports  frofti  New  York  amounted,  in  1805,  to  23,582,252 

■dollars,  of  which   15,484,883  dollars  was  foreign  produce.     The 

imports  probably  amount  to  upwards  of  25,000,000 ;  but  it  is  to  be 

observed  that  New  York  exports  and  imports  a  great  portion  of  the 

commodities  of  other  states. 

The  situation  of  New  York  I  should  reckon  very  healthy ;  yet  it 
is  sometimes  dreadfully  afflicted  with  sickness ;  which  circumstanco, 
1  am  rather  inclined  to  think,  arises  from  a  defect  in  the  police, 
which  does  not  seem  to  be  conducted  in  a  manner  becoming  the 
wealth  and  splendour  of  this  fine  city.  The  buildings  are,  in  many 
places,  too  crowded :  many  of  the  wharves  are  ill  constructed,  and 
some  of  the  docks  project  into  the  city,  especially  from  the  £^st  ri* 
ver,  to  the  great  annoyance  of  the  inhabitants.  The  common  sew- 
ers are  incomplete,  and  there  is  no  supply  of  ire^  water  to  sweeten 
and  purify  the  streets ;  but,  beyond  all,  they  have  adopted  the  sys- 
tem of  sinking  nectissaries,  which  accumulates  such  a  Collection  of 
latent  filth,  that  the  steams  of  it  are  sometimes  perceptible  at  two 
miles  distance. 

I  soon  got  well  acquainted  with  New  York,  and  was  much  pleas- 
ed with  the  affability  and  polite  deportment  of  the  inhabitants. 
The  gentlemen  whom  I  had  occasion  to  see  were  mostly  merchants, 
who  are  distinguished  as  men  of  business ;  and  generally  so  well 
acquainted  with  the  nature  of  their  OMni  trade^  that  they  can  tell 
the  value  pf  a  piece  of  goods  almost  as  correctly  as  a  Manchester  or 
Glasgow  manu&cturer.  The  feipale  society  are  poliiShed  and  well 
bred ;  they  have  not,  generally  speaking,  that  florid  glow  of  health 
for  which  the  Scottish  ladies  a^e  distinguished ;  but  they  are,  I 
think,  fully  as  handsome  in  their  persons  and  featui'ed. 

I  heiird  but  little  politics  among  those  with  whom  I  Ossocittted  ; 
but  I  observed  a  good  deal  in  the  newspapers,  and  tW6  of  them 
were  very  coatfle  and  scurrilous.  They  were  on  dif&i^irit  side*  of 
the  political  queKion,  of  course,  and  lubltitutsd  abtnite  language 


60 


TRAVELS    IN 


ll'iJ 


Y  ;■  ft' 


and  personal  declamation  fur  reasoning.     When  a  person  looks  in- 
to n  newspaper,  it  is  to  sec  the  news  ut*  the  day,  of  which  there  is  gc> 
ncrally  a  suinniury  in  the  leading  paragraph ;  but|  contrary  to  every 
thing  I  had  ever  men  before,  one  of  these  papers  beg.\n  by    abusing 
n  cotemporary,  and  the  other  returned  the  compliment,  with  inte- 
rest.    I  notice  this  circumstance  because  it  made  a  forcible  imprcs- 
«ion  upon  me,  and  because  similar  circumstances  are  often  resorted 
to  in  Britain,  to  represent  the  free  press  in  America  as  in  the  last 
stage  of  depravity.     A  free  press  is  a  great  national  blessing  ;  but, 
like  the  best  medicines,  it  becomes  a  most  deadly  poison  by  abusing 
it    An  editor  of  a  public  paper  assumes  a  most  important  station 
in  society ;  his  seiitiments  spreod  fur,  and  have  a  great  influence  up. 
on  the  public  mind;  he  is  responsible  for  every  word  he  publishes; 
and  it  is  not  enough  that  he  adhere  to  truth  himself;  he  is  bound 
to  take  care  that  none  other  publish  falsehood  through  the  medium 
of  his   paper :    a  regard   to  the  public  good  also   requires  that 
truth   should  be  promulgated  in  decent  language ;  and  nothing 
should  be  introduced  into  a  public  paper,  with  which  the  public 
have  nothing  to  do.     Whenever  the  personal  feelings  of  the  editor 
have  a  tendency  to  violate  this  rule,  they  should  be  immolated  on 
the  altar  of  public  decorum. 

Party  politics  is  here  as  well  as  in  Britain,  a  noisy  subject ;  and 
the  question  between  the  parties  not  being  well  defined,  it  is  diiRcult 
to  understand  it.     From  the  best  account  of  it  which  I  could  pro- 
cure, the  schism  seems  to  have  taken  place  about  the  time  of  the  a- 
doption  of  the  federal  constitution,  which  gave  rise  to  very  animat- 
ed discussions,  in  ^hich  those  who  were  in  favour  of  it  were  styled 
federalists,  apd  those  opposed  to  it  anttjederalists.    It  now  receives 
the  approbation  of  the  whole  community ;  but  the  distinction  of 
parties  continues,  und^r  the  names  o^ federalists  and  democrats.  They 
equally  lay  claim  to  the  title  oi  republicans,  and  are  often  styled^t^- 
deral  republicans  and  democratic  republicans.     It  was  in  vain  that  I 
looked  for  s^  satisfactory  account  of  the  matter  in  the  New  York  pa* 
pers  which  I  had  ap  opportunity  of  seeing :  but  I  observed  in  pne 
of  them  that  the  federalists  were  styled  the  disciples  of  Washington, 
l^nd  the  democrats  the  supporters  of  Jefferson.     I  thought  I  would 
discover  the  difference  in  the  declared  opinions  of  these  two  emi- 
nent charagters.     I  accordingly  turned   to  general  Washington's 
Fare>vel  Address,  and  Mr.  Jefferson's  Inaugural  Speech ;  but  the 
sentiments  inculcated  in  these  two  papers  appeared  to  me  to  be  pre- 


'>  cl 


1  *l 


t' 


"i 


^;w^' 

--.A^ 

i 

■| 

)cr8on  lookfi  in* 
liich  there  is  gc- 
)ntrary  to  every 
l.\n  hy  nbusing 
lent,  with  inte- 
Ibrciblo  imprcs- 
c  often  resorted 
ns  in  the  last 

blessing ;  but, 
Ison  by  abusing 
portant  station 
at  influence  up. 
'd  he  publishes ; 
If;  he  is  bound 
gh  the  nicUium 

requires  that 
i ;  and  nothing 
ich  the  public 
r»  of  the  editor 
i  imuiolated  on 

y  subject ;  and 

d,  it  is  difRcult 

:h  I  could  pro- 
time  of  the  a- 

0  very  animat- 
it  were  styled 

|t  now  receives 
distinction  of 
wcrais.  They 

>ften  styled^- 
in  vain  that  I 
lew  York  pa- 
ervedin  pn^ 
Washington, 

|ught  I  would 

esc  two  emi- 

ashingtQn's 

;h;  but  the 

le  to  be  pre- 


■ri. 


.1 


NEW   YORK.  W 

dsely  the  same.  The  one  recognizes  popular  government,  and  re- 
commends union,  obedience  to  the  laws,  religion  and  morality,  and 
to  keep  party  spirit  within  bounds;  the  other  declares  that  the  will 
of  the  majority,  legally  expressed,  is  the  law  of  the  land;  and  re^ 
commends  harmony  and  affection,  with  the  free  exercise  of  reason, 
of  religion  and  of  the  press.  Professing  to  act  under  these  senti- 
ments, it  is  somewhat  singular  that  there  should  be  a  difference  at 
all ;  but,  to  use  the  words  of  one  of  the  characters  above  alluded  to, 
♦'  every  difference  of  opinion  is  not  a  difference  of  princiryle,"  and 
the  political  question  may  be  considered  as  essentieJiy  diffe.v^nt  fiv-'m 
what  it  is  in  Britain.  In  Britain  the  questicn  bttweeu  'chtg  .  nd 
toty  is  whether  the  controuling  power  shall  b<  jMkii  w.  th*  p,,ople 
or  in  the  crtmn.  In  America  it  is  whether  it  shall  lic  vt^it  ed  in  tliis 
or  that  set  of  men. 

Having  merely  glanced  at  this  subject,  I  shu'I  dism'-.s  \i  w>h 
a  fervent  wish  for  the  total  extinction  of  all  p«'it  spir'l,  thu 
more  to  be  desired  in  the  United  States,,  as  party  diiilinctior.-.  urc' 
apt  to  divert  the  public  attention  from  objcc'^s  cf  iv„>l  *)rav;U«  i«l 
utility,  while  the  difference  in  principle  among  gooci  way  is  i«o 
small,  that  they  should  be  f*  all  republicans,  uli  feder:li?to,'* 

On  the  20th  of  August,  I   was  introduced  to  vha(    ..dcbra'.ed 
character,  Tliomas  Paine.     He  was  confined  iu  New  Yark  hy  t; 
hurt  in  his  leg,  and  lived  in  the  house  of  a  Mva,  Palinci,  widow 
of  the  late  deistical  minister  in  that  city,     llie  it^^:ntl«nrian  vbf* 
introduced  me  was  well  acquainted  with  Mr.  Paine,  and  J!  ^at 
prlitely  received  as  his  friend.     Paine  was  sitting  in  a  sir.ail  ar 
partment,  with  a  number  of  newspapers  before  Lim  ;  &)i'l  he  gave 
one  of  them  to  my  friend  to  read  some  paragraphs  relat'v e  to  the 
negociations  for  peace  between  Britain  and  Frunce.     In  x]\e  liiean 
time,  I  cast  my  eyes  across  the  table,    aui^y  from   some  MSS. 
which  lay  on  it,  judged  he  was  writing  oa  tho  siibject  of  religion. 
The  title  of  one  of  the  pieces  was  tingula:-,   namely,    "  It  is  I, 
Thomas  Paine,  that  speaketl."  I  could  only  see  a  word  here  and 
there  of  what  followed ;  but,  by  the  scope  of  it,  I  presumed  that 
it  was  som<  sort  of  religious  creed.      I  was  afterwards  informed 
that  it  really  was  so,  and  Aat  he  intended  it  should  be  published 
after  his  death.    When  my  friend  bad  finished  reading  the  news- 
papers, thqr  entered  into  conversation,  in  which  Paine  declared 
decidedly,   that  there  would  be  no  peace.     **  The  war,"  he  ob- 
served, «  must  inevitiibly  go  on  till  the  govenunent  of  England 


6S 


TRAVELS   IM 


%<■:■). 


fiell ;  for  it  was  radically  and  systematically  wrong,  and  altogether 
jncompatible  with  the  present  state  of  society."  I  reminded  him, 
that  there  was  now  a  whig  administration  in  Britain,  who  would 
institute  a  reform  of  abuses,  cause  the  constitution  to  be  acted  on 
in  its  purity,  and  probably  repair  all  the  mischief  that  had  been 
done  by  the  tory  administrations.  He  shook  his  head,  and  said 
that  he  knew  the  English  government  well,  and  was  convinced 
that  no  man,  or  set  of  men,  would  ever  be  able  to  reform  it ; 
the  system  was  wrong,  and  it  never  wou}d  be  set  right  without  a 
revolv'ition,  which  was  us  certain  as  fate,  and  at  no  great  distance 
in  time. 

Finding  we  differed  on  this  point,  I  changed  the  subject,  and 
took  notice  of  a  little  essay  which  he  had  written  on  the  yellow 
fever,  which  had  been  published  in  the  newspapers,  and  attracted 
4»nsiderable  attention  in  the  southern  states.  He  seemed  to  be 
Incased  with  this,  and,  in  the  course  of  conversation  on  the  sub- 
ject, discovered  a  good  deal  of  that  literary  vanity  of  which  he 
has  been  accused;  but  it  must  be  acknowledged,  that  this  little 
piece  contains  much  valuable  information.  The  arguments  are 
ingeniou6~-to  me,  indeed,  quite  convincing ;  and  I  have  conversed 
with  some  of  Mr.  Paine's  most  strenuous  political  opponents,  whp 
have  viewed  them  in  the  sani^  light. 

Paine  is  a  slender  man,  rather  tall,  and  has  an  uncommonly 
penetrat^g  eye.  His  face  is  subject  to  a  scorbutic  eruption, 
which  circumstance  has  probably  contributed  to  prc^agate  the 
report,  that  he  is  habitually  intemperate ;  but  I  was  informed  by 
those  who  knew  him  well,  that  it  is  not  correct.  When  he 
meets  with  a  person  of  his  own  way  of  thinking,  he  will  frequent- 
ly indulge  himself  to  a  late  hour  over  a  gla«s  of  toddy ;  but  sel- 
4om  carries  it  to  excess.  His  income  is  but  smal^ ;  but  he  is  in 
Independent  circamsttiinces,  having  a  tract  of  land,  for  which  he 
could  obtain  ten  thousand  dollars.  He  is  pleasant  in  conversa- 
tion, and  speaks  very  much  in  th«  style  he  writes,  quite  clear 
pud  perspicuous. 

The  following  table  will  afford  an  idea  of  the  sommer  wea-. 
iher  at  New  York, 
August  4.  Clear,    temperate.        Aug.  8.  Cltbr,  do. 

5.  Rain,         do.  9.  Do.       temperate, 

6.  Clear,       watin*      '     :'      lo.  Cloudy,        do. 
'--'--   7.  Do*  do.     .^  ^^^  ^'r-  U,  CkMv  .--    dir'^ 


M 


MEW   YORK. 


m 


and  altogether 
reminded  him, 
in,  who  would 
)  be  acted  on 
that  had  been 
lead,  and  said 
was  convinced 
to  reform  it; 
ight  without  a 
great  distance 

le  subject,  and 
on  the  yellow 
,  and  attracted 
seemed  to  be 
on  on  the  sub- 
y  of  which  he 
that  this  little 
arguments  are 
have  conversed 
pponents,  whp 

1  uncommonly 

utic  eruption, 

rc^agate  the 

informed  by 

When  he 

will  frequents 

dy;  but  sel< 

but  he  is  in 

for  which  he 

\n  cmiversa- 

quite  clear 

iBomtner  wea- 

do. 
|tetti))erat«t 
do. 

do.  ^ 


I 


Jiug.  12.  Cloudy,        do. 


Aug.  2a  Cleans    plMMmt 


13.  Do.  do. 

14.  Do.  do.   "x^i- 

15.  Showers,      do. 

16.  Rain,  sultry*. 

17.  Cloudy,        do. 

18.  Clear,  pleasant, 

19.  Do.  do» 


.'*.''  f  j' 


r  J)«'l 


t. 


«i-k»* 


21.  Do.        wann.    : 

22.  Clott(fy>    snkry* 

2S.  Rain,  thunder^  warm* 
24*  Rain^  stonay,  cold* 

25.  Clear,  wann, 

26.  Do.  do.. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


Long  Island  Sound, — Newport, — Prooidtnet. 

AVING  judged  it  expedient  to  take  a  journey  into  the  Ncvr 
England  states,  I  engaged  a  passage  on  board  a  Providence 
packet,  and  we  set  sail,  at  four  o'clock,  on  the  afternoon  of  the 
26th  of  August.  Our  company  consisted  of  a  gentleman  and 
three  ladies  from  New  York,  two  ladies  and  two  children  from 
Newport,  a  baptist  preacher,  a  printer,  and  a  major.  I  soon  found 
out  that  the  mt^or  would  be  an  excellent  travelling  companion, 
and  resolved  to  humour  him  accordingly.  He  was  very  frank 
and  familiar,  and  we  soon  became  acquainted ;  and  on  exchang- 
ing civilities,  we  found  we  would  have  occasion  to  be  together 
for  some  time,  which  we  resolved  to  improve  to  the  best  advantage; 
and  we  extracted  not  a  little  amusement  from  our.  adventures,  as 
will  be  seen  anon. 

We  proceeded  up    East  River  with  a  fine  easy  breeze,  and 

had  a  delightful  view  of  the  banks  on  each  side^  which  are  well 

.wooded,  and  adorned  with  many  elegant  villas,  belonging  chiefly 

to  the  merchants  of  New  York.     Six  miles  above  New  York,  -ve 

sed  Hell  Gate,  a  very  singular  passage,  about  300  or  400  yardsi 

in  breadth,  having  a  ledge  of  sunken  rocks  across  it  in  an  angu- 

ar  direction,  which  occasions  many  whirlpools  and  cross  currents 

n  the  water.    These,  at  certain  periods  of  the  tide,  make  a  dread- 

I  noise,  and  render  a  passage  impracticable;   but  at  other  times 

e  water  is  smooth,  and  a  passage  easy. 

Soon  after  passing  Hell  Gate,  we  entered  Long  Island  sound, 
iid  had  a  fine  view.    Our  company  seemed  social,  and  disposed 

*"  It  WRR  only  a  pun  of  thocc  dajit  ninrkod  snlUy,  that  I  felt  cUtMgrocMbly  wann. 


.(•Mt 


64  TRAVELS   IN 

to  be  happy.  The  weather  was  agreeably  warm,  And  we  enjoyed 
ourselves  on  deck,  where  we  had  a  number  of  fine  songs,  in  which 
a  Newport  young  lady  excelled.  Towards  evening  the  breeze 
died  away,  when  we  were  about  30  miles  from  New  York, 

August  27«  Early  this  morning  we  took  a  fair  wind,  whiqh 
carried  us  along  at  the  rate  of  nine  or  ten  miles  an  hour. '  The 
sound  widens  gradually  to  the  middle,  where  it  is  about  25  miles 
broad;  but  the  day  being  clear,  we  had  a  fine  view  on  both 
sides  of  it.  On  the  Connecticut  side,  the  coast  is  lined  with  ele- 
gant towns,  adorned  with  spires,  and  the  view  is  very  pleasing. 
Our  ladies  continued  to  charm  us  with  their  songs,  and  the  major 
and  I  were  much  diverted  by  a  singular  courtship,  in  which  the 
chief  agent  was  a  book. 

We  observed,  that  our  printer  paid  a  good  deal  of  attention  to 
the  Newport  young  lady,  the  sweet  singer.  Taking  advantage  of 
her  taste  for  poetry  and  music,  he  produced  his  book,  and  read  a 
sentimental  effusion  to  the  lady ;  and  while  she  was  expressing  her 
approbation,  he  let  his  hand  touch  hers,  as  if  by  accident.  They 
turned  over  to  another  piece,  and  tne  lady  read  on,  till  she  came 
to  a  passage  with  which  she  seemed  to  be  quite  delighted.  "  Is'nt 
that  beautiful  ?"  said  the  gentleman,  laying  his  hand  gentfy  upon 
hers.  "  Beautiful,  indeed,"  exclaimed  the  lady.  •*  I'll  show  you 
something,*'  said  he,  "still  more  forcible  upon  the  :>ame  subject: 
I  beg  you'll  be  seated,  ma'am."  The  lady  was  seated.  He  deliver* 
ed  the  book  with  one  hand,  and,  laying  hold  of  hers  with  the 
other,  sat  down  beside  her. — She  read  on.  «*  This  is  really  beau- 
tiful," said  she.  **  Most  beautiful,  indeed,"  said  he,  and  seized 
this  opportunity  to  put  one  hand  gently  round  her  waist,  while  he 
helped  her  to  hold  the  book  with  the  other.  Thus  they  went  on  from 
piece  to  piece,  and  from  sentiment  to  sentiment,  to  the  great  vex» 
ation  of  the  major,  who  was  quite  chagrined  that  the  printer 
should  engross  the  lady  wholly  to  himself,  and  deprive  the  com-  ' 
pany  of  her  agreeable  songs  and  conversation. 

About  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  we  approached  the  head  of 
the  sound ;  where,  being  near  the  Connecticut  side,  we  had  a  fine 
view  of  New  London,  appropriately  situated  on  a  river  called  the 
Thames.  Nearly  opposite  to  New  London,  we  passed  between  two 
very  small  islands,  within  a  few  yards  of  each  other,  and  entered 
a  curious  passage,  called  the  Race,  being  the  outlet  of  the  sound. 
There  is  a  chain  of  islands,  which  runs  across  this  outlet  in  an  an* 


nd  we  enjoyed 
ongs,  in  which 
ng  the  breeze 
V  York. 
ir  windy  which 
an  hour.  -  The 
about  25  miles 
view  on  both 
lined  with  ele- 

very  pleasing. 

and  the  major 
I)  in  which  the 

of  attention  to 
\g  advantage  of 
x>k,  and  read  a 
I  expressing  her 
ccident.    They 
I,  till  she  came 
ghted.     «  Is'nt 
nd  gently  upon 
I'll  show  you 
>ame  subject: 
id.  He  deliver- 
hers  with  the 
s  really  beau- 
he,  and  seized 
mst,  while  he 
r  went  on  from 
the  great  vex- 
at  the  printer 
mve  the  corn- 
ed the  head  of 
we  had  a  fine 
iver  called  the 
!d  between  two 
',  and  entered 
of  the  sound, 
utlet  in  an  an- 


*< 


LON(S  ISLAND  SOUND.  65 

ulnr  direction,    and  they  consequently  confine  the  water  into 
narrow  channels,  so  that  the  tide,  at  ebbing  and  flowing,  runs  with 
great  violence.     We  passed  it  with  a  light  breeze,  and  the  current 
ft  against  us,  and  consequently  we  made  but  little  progress ;  but  we 
%ot  out  of  it,  and  all  danger,  before  cifirk,  and  proceeded  with  a 
■light  breeze  towards  Newport,  now  about  30  miles  distant.     On 
i)ur  arrival  at  the  entrance  of  Narraganset  bay,  I  observed  a  great 
* -^nantity  of  shipping,  principally  small  craft,  and  was  anxious  to  sec 
ithis  inlet,  being  esteemed  one  of  the  best  in  America ;  but  it  was 
'■'■:  now  1 1   o'clock,  and  too  dark  to  make  observations,  so  I  retired  to 
'  bed  ;  and  in  the  morning,  found  the  vessel  at  the  wharf  in  Newport. 
Newport  is  situated  on  the  south-west  point  of  Rhode  Island, 
i  in  latitude  41®  29'.     It  extends  about  a  mile  from  north  to  south, 
^  along  Narraganset  bay,    and  is  about    one  third  of  a  mile  in 
breadth,  rising,  as  it  proceeds  f'-om  the  water,  by  a  considerable 
•  ascent.     The  streets  cross  one  another  at  right  angles,  and  are  alt 
well  paved.     The  number  of  inhabitants,  by  the  census  of  1800, 
was  6739,  and  the  number  of  houses  is  about  1100,  chiefly  built 
"  of  wood,  and  painted  white.     The  public  buildings  are  a  State- 
House,  Academy,,  Public  Library,  lour  baptist  churches,  two  for 
congrcgationalists,  and  one  each  for  episcopalians,  qnakers,  Mo- 
ravians, and  Jews. 

The  situation  of  this  city  is  beautiful,  and  the  salubrity  of  the 
climate  is  proverbial,  in  consequence  of  which  it  becomes  a  great 
resort  for  strangers,  particularly  from  thesouthein  states,  during 
the  summer  season.  It  is  also  noted  for  the  excellent  supply  of 
provisions  in  its  market,  particularly  of  fish,  of  which  there  is 
said  to  be  SO  or  60  different  kinds.  The  packets  which  ply  be- 
tween this  place  and  New  York,  and  Providence,  are  of  great 
service  to  the  city,  and  to  the  public.  They  are  generally  under 
excellent  regulations,  and  afford  better  accommodations  and  travel- 
ling at  a  cheaper  rate  than  is  to  be  found  in  most  places  of  the 
world.  The  distance  from  hence  to  New  York  is  about  200  miles, 
which  we  sailed  in  little  more  than  30  hours ;  and  the  fare,  in- 
cluding bed  and  provisions,  was  only  nine  dollars.  From  hence  to 
Providence,  80  miles,  it  is  one  dollar. 

Neport  is  a  favourable  situation  for  commerce,  and  has  one  of 
the  most  safe  and  commodious  harbours  in  the  world.  On  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  harbour  is  Goat  Island,  on  which  there  is  a  fort 
and  military  station.     The  trade  of  Newport  is  principally  in  ship- 


I 


1 


to 


"  '■'■  I 


66 


TIAVELS   IN 


ping ;  and  there  is  a  manufactory  of  cotton,   and  one  of  duck« 
both  of  which  are  said  to  be  in  a  thriving  state. 

I  took  a  walk  round  the  town  with  the  major,  who  was  well  ac- 
quainted with  it ;  and  from  the  heights  above  it  we  had  some  fine 
yicwB.  After  breakfast,  we  went  on  board  the  packet  for  Provi- 
dence. 

At  half  past  9  o'clock  we  got  under  weigh,  but  the  wind  being 
right  ahead,  we  made  little  progress.  The  day  however  was  fine, 
and  the  company  agreeable ;  and,  being  in  no  particular  hurry, 
we  enjoyed  ourselves  \evy  much,  sailing  up  this  delightful  bay.  "We 
had  all  our  former  company,  except  one  of  the  ladies  of  New- 
port and  her  children.  T!:.^  other  had  also  intended  to  stop  at 
Newport ;  but  our  printer  had  exerted  his  eloquence  so  effectually 
as  to  induce  her  to  go  to  Providence,  to  see  a  friend,  with  whom 
she  was  to  live  during  commencement.  Having  heard  this  term  fre- 
quently made  use  of,  I  inquired  into  the  meaning  of  it ;  and  was 
informed  that  it  is  a  public  day,  held  at  college,  previous  to  the 
vacation,  on  which  the  students  deliver  their  orations  and  receive 
their  degrees ;  and  it  concludes  with  a  ball,  to  which  all  the  young 
ladies,  for  many  miles  round,  are  invited. 

Atter  proceeding  a  few  miles,  I  found  we  had  a  state-room  full 
of  ladies,  in  addition  to  our  former  company.  One  of  them  came 
out  to  take  the  air.  She  was  a  tall  elegant  ghrl,  about  ]  6  years  of 
age,  with  a  complexion  and  features  uncommonly  beautiful.  The  ma- 
jor and  I  guessed  that  she  would  immediately  attract  our  printer'» 
notice.  We  guessed  right,  for  while  we  were  yet  speaking,  we  saw 
him  pull  out  his  book,  and  make  up  to  her.  She  was  standing 
beside  the  object  of  his  first  regard,  whom  he  now  turned  bis 
back  upon ;  and,  under  pretence  of  showing  the  fine  sentimental 
pieces  in  the  book,  went  through  the  whole  ceremony  of  touching 
hands,  and  so  forth.  Our  major  was  astonished,  and  wondered 
what  could  be  about  '.he  man  that  he  charmed  the  ladies  so ;  for  he 
was  by  no  means  handsome.  One  of  our  company  remarked  that 
there  was  an  herb  in  nature,  called  valerian,  which  had  the  re- 
markable quality  of  charming  the  feline  tribe ;  and  perhaps  there 
night  be  some  herb  which  produced  a  similar  effect  upon  young 
ivomcn,  and  that  tlie  printer  must  be  in  possession  of  it ;  for  he 
could  account  for  his  remarkable  success  in  no  other  way.  The 
major  sWore  (he  was  a  sad  swearer)  that  this  must  be  the  true  so- 
lution, and  wondered  if  any  such  herbs  were  to  be  found  in  Geor- 


one  of  ducki 

tio  was  well  ac- 
hat! some  fine 
;ket  for  Provi- 

the  wind  being 
ivever  was  fine, 
rticular  hurry, 
ghtful  bay.  We 
ladies  of  New- 
led  to  stop  at 
e  so  effectually 
id,  with  whom 
d  this  term  fre- 
of  it ;  and  was 
previous  to  the 
)ns  and  receive 
h  all  the  young 


RHODE    ISLAND.  ^ 

gia,  as  he  would  purchase  them  at  any  expense.     But  it  appeared 
ithat  this  theory  codld  not  be  altogether  correct,  for  a  small  quan- 
tity of  valerian  will  charm  as  many  cats  as  a  room  will  hold,  where- 
as it  appeared  the  printer  could  only  charm  one  young  lady  at  a 
^  time.     The  Newport  lady,  perceiving  his  attention  to  the  stranger, 
I  withdrew  from  him,  and  we  enjoyed  part  of  her  agreeable  conver- 
f  iation,  during  the  remainder  of  tlie  passage.     He  was  but  short- 
-sighted in  the  exchange;  for  this  lady,  though  not  so  beautiful  as 
I  the  other,  had  a  great  deal  more  animation,    which  rendered  her 
more  interesting;  and  she  was  possessed  of  a  great  deal  of  good 
■i.  sense.     We  hud  a  number  of  fine  songs  and  stories,  and  the  day 
passed  away  most  agreeably. 

Narraganset  bay,  up  which  we  sailed,  is  33  miles  in  length, 
from  south  to  north,  and,  towards  Newport,  about  12  miles 
in  breadth,  including  tiie  islands  which  it  embosoms,  of  which 
the  principal  are,  Rhode  Island,  Canonicut,  Prudence,  Patience, 
Hope,  Dyer's,  and  Hog  Island,  It  receives  the  waters  of  Pro- 
vidence, Taunton,  and  Patuxet  rivers ;  and  contains  five  harbours, 
besides  those  of  Newport  and  Providence.  Its  banks  are  clad 
with  settlements,  and  there  are  a  number  of  pretty  little  towns, 
the  view  of  which,  from  the  water,  has  a  fine  effect. 

At  6  o'clock  we  reached  Providence,  where  we  saw  a  good  deal 
of  shipping,  and  I  was  surprised  to  find  a  vessel  there  of  upwards 
of  900  tons  burden.  I  was  informed  that  she  was  in  the  East  India 
trade,  of  which  there  is  a  considel'able  share  at  this  port,  and  that 
there  would  be  a  sale  of  India  goods  next  day.  ,  " 

The  major,  who  had  often  travelled  this  way,  conducted  me  to  a 
boarding-house,  where  having  engaged  lodgings,  we  went  out  to 
take  a  view  of  the  town,  with  which  he  was  well  acquainted.  The 
ground  rises  to  a  considerable  elevation  above  the  town,  from 
whence  we  had  a  fine  view ;  a..  J  we  returned  to  our  lodgings  high- 
ly pleased  with  the  excursions  of  this  day. 

Providence  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  head  of  Narraganset 
bay,  and  is  divided  into  two  parts  by  the  Providence  river,  over 
which  there  is  a  good  bridge,  with  a  draw  in  it,  to  allow  vessels  to 
pass.  The  west  side  of  the  town  is  low,  but  the  east  side  rises,  by 
a  rapid  ascent,  to  a  considerable  elevation.  The  number  of  in- 
habitants, in  1800,  was  7614,  and  they  arc  rapidly  increasing.* 
The  public  buildings  are,  a  court-house,  market-house,  a  public 

*  By  the  cenaus  of  }810,  the;  Are  10,071. 


68 


TRAVELS    IN 


MiiiliJ 


;J< ,  ' 


school-bouse,  a  baptist  meeting-house,  a  quuker  meeting-house, 
and  three  congregational  churches.  There  is  an  extensive  college 
situateil  on  the  hill,  and  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  town,  bay, 
shipping  and  country  for  many  miles  round.  The  building  is  of 
brick,  with  a  slated  roof,  150  feet  long,  46  wide,  and  four  stories 
high;  and  contains  lodgings  for  upwards  of  100  students.  It  has  a 
valuable  philosophical  apparatus,  and  a  library  containing  upwards 
of  3000  volumes.  :  i        ■.         , 

Providence  has  a  pretty  extensive  shipping  trade,  and  several 
manufactories  are  c&tablised  in  the  town  and  neighbourhood, 
which  are  said  to  be  in  a  thriving  state. 

Being  now  about  to  leave  this  little  interesting  state,  I  shall  de- 
vote a  chapter  exclusively  to  a  geographical  description  of  it, 
which  plan  I  intend  to  follow  in  the  course  of  my  travels.  For 
the  necessary  information  on  this  branch,  as  well  as  the  description 
of  cities,  towns,  and  rivers,  I  must  be  indebted,  in  a  great  measure, 
to  the  researches  of  those  who  have  gone  before  mo  ;  but  I  shall 
arrange  the  subject  on  a  new  plan,  which  may  admit  of  considerable 
variety,  and  have  the  beneficial  effect  of  maturing  pay  own  judg- 
ment on  American  geography. 

To  American  manners  and  education  I  shall  pay  a  little  extra 
attention,  because  I  begin  to  find  that  I  have  been  labouring 
under  considerable  prejudices  concerning  them.  It  is  very  com- 
mon for  the  natives  of  Britain  to  set  up  their  own  country  as  the 
model  of  all  perfection,  and  to  doubt  the  existence  of  equal  ad- 
vantages any  where  else  ;  and  to  no  country  has  that  doubt  been 
more  extended  than  to  the  Unitetl  States  of  America.  It  is  real- 
ly surprising  to  see,  that  notwithstanding  the  great  intercourse 
between  the  two  countries,  there  should  be  so  much  ignorance,  or 
rather  misinformation,  in  Britain,  regarding  America ;  and  it  is  to 
this  circumstance  that  I  attribute  my  own  prejudices;  for  as  to  what 
are  called  natural  prejudices,  I  disclaim  them.  I  have  no  wish  to 
see  things  otherwise  than  as  they  are;  and  I  am  very  glad  to  observe 
that  this  people  have  a  polish  of  manners,  and  speak  a  style  of 
language,  which  must  be  the  result  of  education,  at  least  equal  to 
what  exists  in  Britain.  And  this  does  not  appear  to  be  confined 
to  the  sea-port  towns :  the  country,  in  this  quarter,  is  thickly 
settled  with  a  civilized,  industrious  people. 


•r.  ■  ;!ii 


69 


necting-house, 
tensive  collcfie 
"he  town,  bay, 
building  is  of 
ind  tour  stories 
lents.  It  has  a 
ining  upwards 

',  and  several 
eiglibourhood, 

ite,  I  shall  de- 
cription  of  it, 

travels.  For 
the  description 
great  measure, 

;  but  I  shall 
of  considerable 

^ly  own  judg- 


■•',r^.-'-'T "^-'-I''.  %»•• 


IS  very  com- 
:ountry  as  the 

of  equal  ad- 
it doubt  been 
;a.  It  is  real- 
it  intercourse 


IIQODB   ISLAND. 

CHAPTER  X. 

Rhode  Island. 

HODE  ISLAND  is  situated  between  41''  22'  and  42'*  north 
Uitude,  and  S**  and  5°  50'  east  longitude*,  being  45  miles  in 
^ngth,  and  43  in  breadth,  and  contains  1548  square  miles,  or 
f 90, 720  acres. 

The  face  of  the  country  is  agreeably  uneven,  some  places  be- 
ig  hilly,  but  not  mountainous.     Narraganset,  already  mentioned, 
is  the  principal  bay.     The  rivers  all  flow  into  this  bay,  and  have 
jeen  already  noticed. 

Iron  ore  is  found  in  great  plenty,  and  the  state  abounds  with 
limestone  and  marble.  Some  copper  ore  and  load-stone  have  al- 
so  been  found ;  and  there  are  several  mineral  springs,  but  of  no 
great  importance. 

•    The  soil  is  various,  and  a  great  part  of  it  good,  though  better 
adapted  for  grazing  than  for  grain. 

ITie  climate  is  salubrious  and  healthy ;  but  the  winters  are 
|£ometimes  long  and  severe,  commencing  in  November,  and  ending 
March  or  April.  There  is  a  very  short  spring,  but  the  sum- 
ner  and  autumn  are  delightful.  Volney  remarks  on  this  subject, 
I**  Were  I  obliged  to  select  the  most  favourable  spot  in  America 
fas  the  place  of  my  abode,  my  choice  would  fall  upon  the  southern 
[point  of  Rhode  Island." 

The  first  settlement  was  commenced  in  the  year  1636,  by  Roger 
[Williams,  a  banished  clergyman  from  Massacbussets ;  and  the 
i  state  was  chiefly  peopled  by  emigrants  from  that  country.  In  1663, 
[a  charter  was  obtained  from  Charles  II,  which  is  the  basis  of 
[die  present  constitution.  The  country  suffered  greatly  during  the 
[revolutionary  war ;  but  it  is  now  in  a  thriving  state,  increasing 
tin  population  and  wealth.  It  sends  two  senators  and  two  repre- 
sentatives to  congressf. 

The  state  is  divided  into  five  counties  and  thirty  townships,  and 

*  I  have  adopted  the  American  mode  of  making  Washington  the  first  meridian. 
:  It  accords  best  with  the  map,  and  is  calculated  to  give  a  better  idea  of  the  relative  si* 
[tuation  of  the  different  places  in  the  country  than  the  meridian  of  London. 

f  Representatives  are  sent  to  congress  according  to  the  population,  one  for  every 


'  35,000,    Each  state  sends  two  senators. 


'?'i,,;?  -^fi 


;-:i-    'tX' 


TRAVELS    IN 


the  inhabitants  amount  to  69,122%  including  S80  slaves;  being 
about  45  to  the  sijuare  mile. 

The  country  is  well  improved,  abounding  with  towns,  villages, 
and  farm-houses.  The  chief  towns  are  Providence  and  Newport, 
already  mentioned.  The  others  are.  South  Kingston^  situated  on 
the  west  side  of  Narraganset  Bay,  nearly  opposite  Newport,  and 
contains  3000  inhabitants.  Bristol  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the 
bay,  about  half  way  between  Providence  and  Newport,  and  con- 
tains 1678  inhabitants.  It  has  a  little  shipping  trade.  Warren 
is  a  flourishing  little  town,  containing  about  1600  inhabitants.  It 
is  on  the  west  side  of  the  bay,  on  the  Warren  River,  and  car- 
ries on  a  brisk  coasting  and  foreign  trade.  Little  Compton,  East 
Greenwich,  and  Compton,  are  also  growing  towns.  The  state  is 
supplied  with  good  roads  and  bridges,  some  of  which  have  been 
constructed  on  an  ingenious  plan,  and  at  great  expense.  No 
canals  have  yet  been  made,  but  several  are  projected. 

The  farms  are  generally  well  cultivated,  and  produce  Indian 
corn,  rye,  barley,  oats,  wheat,  (though  not  enough  for  home  consump- 
tion,) fruits  in  great  abundance,  and  culinary  vegetables.  Butter, 
cheese,  and  cyder,  are  made  in  great  quantities,  and  of  a  sHperior 
quality.  * 

The  manufactures  are  cotton  and  linen  goods,  bar  and  sheet 
iron,  steel,  nails,  anchors  and  other  iron  work  for  shipping,  saiU 
doth,  paper,  rum,  &c.  The  cotton  manufacture  is  extending, 
and  I  was  informed  that  some  of  those  engaged  in  it  were  doing 
well ;  but  it  is  yet  in  its  infancy,  and,  being  subject  to  a  compe- 
tition with  the  organized  manufactures  of  Britain,  it  must  be  at- 
tended with  a  considerable  degree  of  inconvenience,  and  perhaps 
some  risk. 

~  This  state  is  very  favourably  situated  for  commerce,  of  which 
it  has  a  large  share.  The  exports  are  grain,  flaxseed,  lumber, 
horses,  cattle,  beef,  pork,  fish,  poultry,  onions,  butter,  cheesei 
spirits,  and  cotton  and  linen  goods.  The  value  of  exports  is  a- 
bout  1,000,000  dollars  annually.  The  imports  are  European  and 
India  manufactures,  West  India  produce,  and  logwood. 

"Pis  inhabitanu  of  the   country  are  generally  prc^rietors  of 

*  the  farms  they  cultivate,  and,  having  no  landlord  to  make  their 

boo  to,  nprrentto  pay,  they  must  be  independent,    The  inhabi- 

*  The  nuBober  of  inhabitanu  is  by  the  census  of  I  SOD,  unless  where  otherwise 
Mpregsed. 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


71 


tants  of  the  towns  are  merchants,  manufacturers,  mechanics,  sea- 
men, and  fishermen.  The  lands  are  not  entailed,  and  hence 
there  is  no  aristocracy ;  but  independence  is  easily  attained  by 
labour.  There  is  no  distinction  made  on  account  of  religious 
opinions ;  but  every  man  worships  God  in  any  way  his  conscience 
dictates,  without  interfering  with  his  civil  rights.  There  are  seve- 
ral benevolent  and  useful  societies  in  the  state,  among  which  may 
be  noticed  one  "  for  the  abolition  of  the  slave-trade,  and  for  the 
improvement  of  the  African  race."  The  state  of  education  is  said 
to  b«  considerably  behind  that  of  the  other  New  England  states 
but  is  improving.  The  chief  seminary  is  the  college  at  Provi- 
dence, already  mentioned ;  and  there  is  an  academy  at  Newport, 
under  good  regulations,  besides  various  seminaries  throughout 
the  state.  ,  ,        .        , 

The  state  legislature  consists  of  a  governor,  deputy  governor, 
ten  senators,  and  a  representative  from  each  township.  Thej 
are  chosen  by  the  pepole  twice  every  year,  and  they  bold  two 
sessions  annually. 


where  otherwise 


CHAPTER  XI.  T 

.-  Providence^ — Dedhatn, — Boston.      ;  ,      .         ■..■., 

J/ HERE  is  a  rule  in  travelling  this  road,  that  if,  on  the  arrival  of 
the  packet,  there  are  three  passengers  going  on  to  Boston,  the  stage 
is  bound  to  go  with  them  at  any  hour.  There  were  four  of  us  who 
agreed  to  go  at  5  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  we  constituted  the 
major  master  of  the  ceremonies,  to  make  the  necessary  arrange- 
ment with  the  landlord.  We  accordingly  rose  very  early  to  take  our 
places ;  but,  lo !  after  waiting  a  full  half  hour,  there  was  no  stage 
to  be  seen,  and  the  major  began  to  suspect  the  landlord  of  insince* 
rity.  By*and-by  he  lost  all  patience,  and  began  to  swear  most  bit- 
terly ;  he  went  in  search  of  the  landlord,  but  there  was  no  landlord 
to  be  seen ;  nor,  mdeed,  any  of  the  domestics.  However,  it  was 
impossible  that  they  could  be  lon^  proof  against  the  effect  of  the 
major's  lungs,  for  he  bellowed  forth  the  most  dreadful  oaths  and 
imprecations  that  I  ever  heard,  and  soon  alan&ed  the  servants; 
but  they  could  not  satisfy  the  major,  who 

"  Roar'd  a  horrid  murder  sbouV 
In  dreadfu'  dcepenitioii" 


'iri'a 


'  'l!'. 


i%.|  V 


W^ 


72  tRAVKLS    lH 

for  the  landlord,  who  at  last  made  his  appearance ;  and  the  majoi', 
with  a  thundering  menace,  demanded  where  the  stage  was.  He 
rubbed  his  eyes,  and  was  going  to  make  a  reply,  but  he  had  not 
time ;  for  the  major  held  forth  fully  half  on  hour  in  a  strain  of  elo- 
quence peculir  to  gentlemen  of  the  sea  or  the  sword,  and  which 
could  hardly  find  a  parallel  in  the  curses  wherewithal  Dr.  Slop 
cursed  Obadiah,  on  the  day  in  which  he  tied  the  knots  on  his  instro- 
ment-bag.  At  last  the  storm  abated  a  little,  and  the  landlord  got 
leave  to  speak ;  but  he  only  made  matters  worse,  for  he  blundered 
out  that  the  stage  would  not  go  before  eight  o'clock.  The  land* 
lord  had,  in  truth,  attempted  to  jockey  us.  An  additional  compa- 
ny was  to  go  at  eight  o'clock  ;  and  he  and  the  stage  owner,  between 
whom  there  was  a  collusion,  thought  that,  notwithstanding  the  a- 
greement  with  us,  the  stage  could  easily  accommodate  both ;  and 
a  few  hours,  in  point  of  time,  was  immaterial.  But,  oh  I  for  the 
pencil  of  a  Hogarth,  to  dlelineate  the  features  of  the  major  when  this 
fact  came  out.  Mercy  on  us !  how  he  did  fume  and  rage,  and  stamp 
and  curse  !  At  last  he  made  a  spring  toward  the  landlord,  and, 
shaking  his  cane  over  his  head,  swore  if  he  did  not  bring  the  stage 
immediately,  he  would  have  satisfaction  out  of  his  bones.  The 
landlord  get  alarmed,  and  ran  as  if  the  devil  had  been  in  pursuit  of 
him,  and  the  major,  having  spent  his  rage,  stood  mute.  The  land- 
lord had  not  been  long  gone  before  a  gentleman  came  up  to  the 
house  and  asked  if  we  were  going  to  Boston,  and,  on  being  answer- 
ed in  the  affirmative,  he  told  us  that  he  had  a  new  stage,  which  Iio 
would  start  instantly,  provided  there  were  three  passengers.  This  was 
most  delightful  news  for  the  major,  who  told  him  we  would  go,  pro- 
vided the  stage  was  brought  in  ten  minutes,  so  as  to  disappoint  the 
landlord.  An  elegant  new  stage,  with  good  horses,  drew  up  before 
the  door  in  a  few  minutes,  and,  having  paid  a  very  moderate  bill 
to  the  landlady,  who,  the  major  observed,  was  the  better  man  of  the 
twOf  we  got  into  tlie  carriage.  While  we  were  seating  ourselves, 
up  came  the  landlord  with  the  other  stage,  and  the  major  detained 
us  a  few  minutes  to  get  a  parting  word  with  him.  "  Now,  you  ras- 
cal," says  he,  "  you  thought  to  play  a  Yankee  trick  upon  me ;  but 
this  is  diamond  cut  diamond  for  you  1"  The  landlord  began  to 
enter  a  complaint  against  us  for  leaving  the  stage ;  but  he  was  stop- 
ped short  by  the  major,  who  exclaimed,  "  Oh  !  you  rascal,  I  de- 
light in  disappointing  yon  :  I  would  not  for  a  thousand— ^ay,  not 
for  ten  thousand  dollars  have  wanted  this  satisfaction.  I  know  money 


m 


;  and  ttie  raajof, 
stage  was.     He 
but  he  had  not 
1  a  strain  of  elo- 
rord,  and  which 
withal  Dr.  Slop 
dts  on  his  instrn* 
he  landlord  got 
}r  he  blundered 
k.     The  land- 
ditional  compa- 
owner,  between 
[Standing  the  a- 
>date  both ;  and 
ut,  oh  !  for  the 
major  when  this 
rage,  and  stamp 
)  landlord,  and, 
bring  the  stage 
lis  bones.     The 
(en  in  pursuit  ot 
Jte.     The  land- 
ime  up   to  the 
1  beinjj  answer- 
stage,  which  he 
ngers.  This  was 
would  go,  pro- 
disappoint  the 
drew  up  before 
y  moderate  bill 
?tter  man  qftk 
iting  ourselves, 
major  detained 
Now,  you  ras- 
upon  me ;  but  |^ 
lord  began  to  t; 
it  he  was  stop- 
u  rascal,  I  de- 
isand— ^ay,  not 
I  know  monev 


MASSACHUSETTS.  73 

will   procure  any  thing ;    and    I  have  got  more  than  ever  you 
saw,  you  vagabond."     So  saying,  he  ordered  the  driver  to  proceed. 

We  travelled  but  slowly,  owing  to  the  road  being  very  bad.  We 
learned  that  the  people  of  Maasnchusettii  had  ofl'ered  to  extend  the 
turnpike  to  Providence,  but  the  peopleof  this  state  would  not  agree 
to  it ;  and  thus  the  road  reiuainetl  almost  impasioiblc.  The  niorn- 
\v\n  was  hazy,  so  that  we  could  see  but  little  of  the  country ;  but  it 
api)e<'irt'd  to  be  indifferently  cultivated.  We  saw  great  quantities 
of  fruit  by  the  way  side;  and  several  waggons,  loaded  with  apples, 
were  on  their  way  to  Providence. 

The  salutation  which  the  major  gave  the  landlord  occasioned  a 
gootl  deal  of  merriment ;  and  one  of  our  company  observed  that  he 
could  put  him  upon  a  plan  of  swearing  by  rule,  by  which  means  he 
could  save  him  a  great  deal  of  trouble,  and  wear  and  tear  of  con- 
science, in  coining  oaths.  He  accordingly  produced  the  anathema 
of  Ernulphus,  recorded  i\\  the  Life  and  Opinions  of  Tristram  Shan- 
dy, which  he  read  aloud,  to  the  great  astonishment  of  the  major, 
and  diversion  of  the  company.  , 

About  four  miles  from  Providence,  we  passed  Patucket  river, 
and  entered  into  the  state  of  Massachusetts.  Here  there  are  very 
handsome  falls,  and  a  little  town  called  Patucket,  in  which  there 
is  a  thriving  manufactory  of  cotton  yarn  and  goods.  The  spin- 
ning works  are  said  to  be  on  the  most  approved  principle,  and 
there  are  several  looms  going  by  machinery. 

We  were  informed  that  the  cotton  trade  had  been  introduced 
here  by  a  gentleman  from  England,  a  pupil  of  Arkwright,  who 
had  been  very  successful;  that  other  people  were  following  his 
example,  and  that  this  branch  was  likely  to  increase  to  a  great 
extent  in  this  district.     I  doubted  the  power  of  the  people  here 
to  become  competitors  with  the  manufacturers  of  England ;  but 
I  learned  that    they  confine  themselves  pretty  much  to  coarse 
goods,   and  articles  of  the  first  necessity ;    and  on  turning  the 
whole  information,  relative  to  tlie  subject,  in  my  mind,  I  found 
that  they  had  such  a  number  of  circumstances  in  their  favour,  as 
were  sufficient  to  balance,  if  not  to  overcome,  the  disadvantages,  , 
The  principal  disadvantage  is  the  high  wages  which  must  be  paid 
to  the  workmen ;  and  it  is  supposed  that  tlie  people  have  a  pre-/^ 
deliction  for  agriculture,  which  has  a  tendency  to  prevent  them 
from  settling  at  sedentary  employments.     This  lasf  circumstance  • 
k  the  popular  opinion  in  Britain,  and  I  was  impressed  with  its 

10 


74 


TIAVBUI  IN 


lirf:|. 


,.['*' 


reality  myself;  but  after  hiking  round  me  in  thu  country,  I  ra- 
ther think  that  it  is  more  tpccious  than  solid ;  for  I  find  there  is 
no  want  of  masons  carpenters,  smiths,  tanners,  shoemakers,  hat- 
ters, taylors,  and  other  mechanics,  none  of  which  arc  agricultural 
employments.     All  these  and  other  branches  are  organized  and 
practised  with  persevering  industry,  because  the  profits  resulting 
from  them   are  equal  to  those  resulting  from  agriculture;    and 
ether  branches  will  be  subject  to  the  same  rule.    In  every  com- 
munity there  are  a  great  number  of  the  members  who  are  better 
adapted  for  labour  in  the  house  than  in  the  field  ;  and  the  force 
of  this  remark  is  peculiarly  applicable  to   the  cotton  trade,  in 
which  a  large  portion  of  the  labour  is  performed  by  machinery, 
and  the  remainder  principally  by  women  and  children.     But  all 
Ubonr  is  better  paid  for  in  America  than  in  Britain.    The  pro- 
portion is  probably  two  to  one;  and  if  the  cotton    trade  will 
afford  this  advance  to  the  labourers,  it  will  bear  a  competition  with 
similar  manufacturers  of  Britain,  and  prosp«* — not  else. 

The  most  striking  circumstance  in  favour  of  the  cotton  manu- 
factures is  the  cheapness  of  the  raw  material,  which  is  the  pro- 
duce of  the  United  States.  They  manufacture  here  principally 
upland  cotton,  and  the  price,  including  carriage  to  this  place, 
is  abont  20  cents  per  pound*;  being  about  12  cents  lower 
than  tliey  can  possibly  have  it  in  Britain.  The  next  circumstance 
is  the  heavy  charges  to  which  British  manufactured  goods  are 
subject  before  they  come  into  the  American  market.  These  may 
be  reckoned  at  least  equal  to  45  per  cent. :  namely,  carrioge,  in- 
surance, and  shipping  charges,  5  per  cent;  American  duties,  16^ 
per  cent.;  importer's  profit,  10  per  cent$  American  merdumt's 
profit  and  contingencies,  14|  per  cent. 

^«ow,  suppose  lOOlbs  of  cotton  to  be  mann&cturod  into  cloth, 
of  a  fabric  that  will  sell  at  about  one  shilling  sterling  in  Britain, 
the  number  of  yards  will  be  about  300 ;  and  by  producing  this 
m  the  American  marked  subject  to  these  different  charges,  it  will 
afford  a  data  whereby  we  may  calculate  the  price  that  can  be  af- 
forded to  the  manufacturer  in  America ;  and  from  thence  we  may 
determine  the  probable  increase  of  the  cotton  manufiicture.  It  is 
to  be  observed  that  the  demand  for  cotton  goods  in  America  is 
immense,  and  there  is  no  material  competition,  txcej^t  with  Brit- 
ish manu&cturers. 


*  It  is  now  (1812)  only  13  or  }3  cents. 


MASSACiirtim.  W 

lOOlbt  of  eotUm  purchaied  in  the  southern  states 

of  America,  at  18  cts.  is  in  sterling  4  4    10 

Shipping  charges,  freight,  and  merchant's  profit^ 

3(L  per  pound  15    0 

British  duty      .                                          •    .'  10    8 


Nearly  16d.  per  pound 


SOO 


yards  of  cloth  at  Is«  per  yard,  is 


Leaving  for  the  various  branches  of  manufacture 

This  cloth  sent  to  America,  costs  in  Britain 
Cluurgcs  before  enumerated,  45  per  cent. 


CM 


',^"lt 


£  6 

12 

8 

£\$ 

0 

0 

£  8 

7 

i 

£\S 
£   6 

0 
15 

0 
0 

£2\  15    0 


Suppose  the  same  fabric  manufactured  in  America. 
The  cotton  cobts,  in  the  southern  states,  at  18 

cents  per  pound 
Carriage  and  charges,  at  2  cents  per  pound 


dol.  18 


0    0 


Price  of  raw  material 


dol.  20 


Value  of  umilar  cloth    imported  from  Britain 
£21  15,  is  '  ;  96  57 

Leaving  for  the  varioifs  branches  of  manu&ctnre    dolf  76  57 

Or  sterling  j£  16    4    7 

Being  nearly  double  the  price  paid  to  the  British  manufacturer. 

It  will  be  observed  too,  by  this  calculation,  that  the  cotton  ia 
taken  at  its  extreme  height,  and  for  every  cent  that  it  falls,  tho 
proportional  advantage  to  the  American  manufacturer  is  increat* 
ed;  because  a  great  part  of  the  difference  consists  in  duties  and 
charges,  which  are  not  materially  affected  by  the  fidl. 

It  is  my  (pinion,  upon  the  whol^  that  the  cotton  manufacture 
will  increase  in  America ;  and  that  it  holds  out  a  very  good  in- 
ducement for  men  of  ci^ital  to  embark  in  it. 

We  were  now  in  the  state  of  Massachusetts  and  had  an  ex* 
<»Uent  turnpike  road,  but  being  recently  cut  through  a  new  coun- 
tiy,  we  had  no  great  variety  of  scenery.  The  face  of  the  country 
was  agreeably  uneven,  but  the  land  rather   poor    and  stony. 


b  m 


-i-i 


f}] 


r  > 


tv\\  -M 


76 


TR    VELS    Ui 


Twelve  miles  from  Providence  we  stopped  at  the  house  of  a 
colonel  Hutch,  the  proprietor  of  the  Ktnge,  who  was  along  witli 
us.  The  house  is  new  and  commodious,  and  we  got  an  excellent 
breakfast,  charge  50  cents. 

From  thence  we  travelled  22  miles  to  Dedham.  The  country, 
r.om  the  reason  already  stated,  is  but  thinly  settled  by  the  road- 
side. .  The  face  of  the  country  is  agreeably  uneven,  and  we  had 
many  hne  distant  views.  The  road-side  abounds  with  fruit,  of 
which  the  traveller  may  gather  as  much  as  he  pleases.  Towards 
Dedham  the  country  improves,  and  the  inhabitants  appeared 
healthy,  and  in  comfortable  circumstances. 

Dedham  is  a  handsome  little  village,  eleven  miles  from  Boston, 
consisting  of  between  3  and  400  houses,  and  containing  about 
1500  inhabitants.  The  houses  are  mostly  built  of  wood,  and 
painted  white.  The  public  buildings  are  a  court-house,  three 
congregational  churches,  and  an  episcopal  church.  There  arc 
several  grist  and  saw-jnills  in  the  neighbourhood  ;  and  the  inhabi- 
tants carry  on  a  considerable  manufacture  of  shoes  and  wire-work. 
.  From  thence  to  Boston,  the  road  goes  through  a  beautiful 
country,  abounding  with  villas  and  well -cultivated  farms,  and  at 
a  distance  to  the  eastward  are  high  lands  approaching  nearly  to 
mountains.  AVhcrever  I  turned  my  eyes,  I  was  delighted  with 
the  view ;  and  being,  like  the  vicar  of  Wakefield,  "  an  admirer 
of  happy  faces,"  I  was  amply  gratified  by  the  appearance  of  the 
inhabitants,  who  were  cleanly,  industrious,  and  contented.  The 
female  part  of  the  community,  in  particular,  appeared  to  great 
advantage,  having  a  glow  of  health,  an  air  of  theerfulness,  and  a 
cleanliness  of  aspect,  that  I  have  not  seen  surpassed.    .  >     ;'  ^^, 

The  country  continued  to  improve  as  we  proceeded  towards 
Boston,  in  the  immeiUate  neighbourhood  of  which  the  buildings 
and  pleasure-grounds  are  uncommonly  elegant.  We  entered  the 
town  by  tlie  curious  passage  called  the  Neck,  and  drove  up  to  the 
house  of  a  Mr.  Ch^pi)otin,  in  Summer-street,  which  we  reached 
just  in  time  for  dinner.  Qn  entering  the  public  room,  I  found  about 
twenty  gentlemen  at  the  dinner-table,  and  I  seated  myself  beside  an 
elderly  gentleman,  in  9.  strange  dress,  with  a  long  beard,  who  I  after- 
wards learned  was  the  Tunisian  ambassador.  After  dinner,  I  took 
a  walk  round  the  towr*  with  the  major,  vho  was  well  acquainted 
with  it ;  called  upon  my  fellow-passenger  in  the  W^arrington,  Mr. 
Ballard,  who  was  glad  to  see  me ;  and  spent  the  evening  at  the 
boarding-house,  much  pleased  with  the  excursions  of  the  day. 


w 


thi 

iid 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


77 


i    /Wft/'tU^     ^■■' 


,:■      i.'(        ;l 


..1  ■nV-lii'/.;  .'i^/^l  .i{ll<?V.      ' 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Boston, — Salem.    ■   v  >.'i'>, ;  <'.^.><    • 


r.:.^] 


OSTON  is  built  on  a  peninsula,  at  the  head  of  Massachusetts 
in  north  latitude  42°  23'.  It  is  at  one  place  two  miles  long, 
ut  the  broadest  part  is  not  quite  half  a  mile.  A  great  part  of 
he  town  lies  low  along  the  bay ;  but  the  ground  rises  to  a  coii- 
idcrable  elevation  in  the  middle,  where  the  State- House  is  built, 
hich  •'ivcs  it  a  very  handsome  appearance  at  a  distance.  The 
own  partakes  of  the  nature  of  the  old  towns  in  England,  and  is 
rreffulurly  built,  many  of  the  streets  being  crooked  and  narrow ; 
ut  the  more  modern  part  is  regular,  and  the  streets  broad  and 
ell  paved.  The  streets,  lanes,  and  alleys  amount  to  above  150; 
nd  there  are  five  public  squares ;  but  none  of  them  are  of  great 
Extent,  except  the  Mall,  which  is  a  very  elegant  piece  of  public 
ground  in  front  of  the  State-House. 

The  number  of  dwelling-houses  is  above  3500,  and,  by  the 
census  of  1500,  the  inhabitants  were  2'1<,937;  from  the  increase 
that  has  since  taken  place,  it  is  presumed  that  the  number  is  now 
upwards  of  30,000.*  The  greater  part  of  the  houses  are  built  of 
brick,  and  many  of  them  are  spacious  and  elegant. 

The  public  buildings  are  the  State-House,  Court-House,  Jail, 
Concert-Hall,  Faneuil-Hall,  Alms- House,  Work- House,  and 
Bridewell ;  the  Museum,  Library,  Theatre,  and  nine  congregae 
tional,  three  episcopal,  and  two  baptist  churches,  with  one  each 
for  Roman  catholics,  inethodistSj  and  universalists.  The  public 
buildings  are  in  general  very  handsome,  and  the  greater  part 
of  the  churches  are  ornamented  with  spires.  _      .,    ,  ,.^1 

The  markets  of  Boston  are  well  supplied  with  every  kind  of 
country  provisions,  fruit,  and  fish.  The  prices  are  not  materially 
different  from  those  of  New  York.  Flour  is  generally  a  little  high- 
er ;  but  cod-fish,  which  is  the  universal  Saturday  dinner,  is  lower. 

Boston  is  well  siii'ated  for  foreign  commerce,  of  which  it  has  a 
very  large  share.  The  harbour  is  spacious,  and  is  capable  of  con- 
taining 500  sail  of  vesels.  There  are  many  wharfs  constructed,  of 
which  the  most  remarkable  is  I^ig  Wharfs  extending  into  the  bay 
upwards  of  1700  feet*    The  number  of  vessels  thfii  enter  aad  cloor 


•  By  tke  census  of  J  810,  they  were  SJr.ZSO. 


I) 


i  I" 


if 


:'!•' 


:  ,J' 


78  TRAVILS   IN 

out  annually  w  immense,  carrying  on  a  trade  to  Europe,  the  East 
and  West  Indies,  and  China,  besides  a  very  extensive  coasting 
trade.  The  exports  annually  from  this  port  probably  amount  to 
upwards  of  8,000,000  dollars.  The  principal  manufactures  are  of 
iron,  leather,  paper  and  glass,  which  are  brought  to  great  maturity, 
in  all  the  various  branches ;  besides  which,  they  have  thriying  ma< 
nufactories  of  hats,  sail-cloth,  cards,  soap  and  candles,  refined  su> 
gar,  spermaceti,  ashes,  &c.  There  are  ten  distilleries,  two  brew- 
eries, eight  sugar-houses,  and  several  rope-walks  in  and  about  the 
town ;  but  one  of  the  most  important  branches  is  ship-building, 
and  the  Bostonians  seem  generally  more  attached  to  the  shipping 
trade  than  any  other  branch.  There  are  in  Boston  three  incorpo- 
rated  banks,  besides  a  branch  of  the  United  States'  Bank,  whose 
joint  capitals  amount  to  upwards  of  3,000,000  dollars,  and  there 
are  three  or  four  insurance-offices,  with  capitals  of  3  or  400}000 
dollars  each^ 

There  are  a  number  of  public  societies  in  Boston,  among  which 
may  be  mentioned  the  American  Academy  of  Arts  and  Sciences* 
Massachusetts  Historical  Society,  Boston  Library  Society,*  Agri- 
cultural Society,  Mechanic  Society,  Marine  Society,  Charitable 
Fire  Society,  Humane  Society,  Medical  Society,  Dispensary,  and 
the  Female  Asylum.  Public  education  is  on  an  excellent  footing; 
there  are  eight  or  nine  public  schools,  supported  at  the  expense  ol 
the  town,  which  are  accessible  to  all  the  members  of  the  commu- 
nity, free  of  expense:  they  are  managed  by  a  committee  of  twen- 
ty-one gentlemen,  chosen  annually,  and  are  under  good  regula- 
tions. Besides  these,  there  a  number  of  private  seminaries,  at 
which  all  the  various  branches  of  education  are  taught;  and  upon 
the  whole,  I  believe  Boston  may  challenge  a  competition  on  this 
branch  with  any  city  in  Europe,  Edinburgh,  in  Scotland,  perhaps, 
excepted. 

The  fruits  of  this  attention  to  the  improvement  of  the  mind,  and 
the  cultivation  of  the  benevolent  affections,  are  very  apparent  in  the 
deportment  of  the  citizens  of  Boston,  who  are  intelligent,  sober, 
and  industrious ;  and,  though  much  attached  to  the  subject  of  re* 
ligion,  they  are  more  liberal,  generally  speaking,  than  any  people 
I  have  yet  been  amongst.  The  ladies  of  Boston  are  generally  hand? 


,F"i 


*  Ay^  Aihenasum  has  since  been  established,  and  in  probably  the  niMt  ckgant  liurarf 
Institution  in  America. 


urope,  the  East 
lensive  coasting 
ably  amount  to 
lufactures  are  of 

great  maturity, 
ve  thriving  ma- 
les, refined  su> 
ries,  two  brew- 
n  and  about  the 
s  ship-building, 

to  the  shipping 
I  three  incorpo- 
?s'  Bank)  whose 
lars,  and  there 
r  3  or  400,000 

I,  among  which 

i  and  Sciences^ 

Society,*  Agri- 

iety,  Charitable 

Dispensary,  and 

Lcellent  footing; 

the  expense  ol 

of  the  commu- 

imittee  of  twen- 

good  regula» 

seminaries,  at 

ht;  and  upon 

petition  on  this 

and)  perhaps, 

the  mind,  an4 
apparent  in  the 
illigent,  sobef} 
subject  of  re» 
lan  any  people 
enerally  hand? 

lOSt  elegant  literary 


MASSACHUSETTS.  79 

line,  with  fine  complexions ;  and,  judging  from  the  sample  which 

saw,  they  have  a  richness  of  intellect,  and  a  cheerfulness  of  de« 

ortment,  that  makes  them  truly  interesting.    Altogether,  Boston 

is  really  a  fine  place.     It  was  here  that  the  rerolution  originated 

hvhich  terminated  in  the  independence  of  America:  and  the  town  is 

justly  celebrated  as  being  the  birth-place  of  that  great  luminary  m 

iterature  and  science.  Dr.  Franklin. 

During  my  stay  in  Bo«f^)n,  which  was  only  a  few  days,  I  went  to 
a  number  of  the  public  places ;  among  others  the  State-House, 
from  whence  there  is  a  most  elegant  view  of  the  town,  bay,  ship- 
pin"-,  neck,  bridges,  and  the  whole  country  round,  to  the  distance 
of  from  twelve  to  fifteen  miles  in  each  direction,  presenting  most 
picturesque  scenery,  including  a  number  of  elegant  villages.  In  one 
■  direction  you  can  see  twenty  miles  out  at  sea,  and  in  another  a 

I  mountain,  said  to  be  distant  sixty  miles. 

'4     The  bridges  of  Boston  merit  particular  attention,  being  works  of 

great  extent  and  utility,  and  constructed  at  a  vast  expense ;  a  proof 

,  of  the  sagacity  and  persevering  industry  of  this  people.     West  Bos- 

M  ton  bridge  is  upwards  of  3000  feet  long,  and  a  causeway  is  connected 
with  it  3000  more,  connecting  Boston  with  Cambridge.  Charles  River 
Bridge  is  1500  feet  long,  and  Maiden  bridge  is  upwards  of  2400  feet 
long :  they  are  all  built  of  wood,  and  have  draws  in  the  middle :  the 
toll  is  reasonable.  LongWharf  has  a^r«..dy  been  noticed.  The  Muse- 
um contains  a  very  good  collection  of  natural  and  artificial  curiosities. 
Tuesday,  September  2d,  at  8  o'clock  in  the  morning,  I  set  out  by 
the  stage  for  Salem,  distant  about  seventeen  miles.  After  (grossing 
by  Charles  River  Bridge,  already  noticed,  we  passed  through 
Chariest  own,  a  handsome  town,  which  is  only  separated  from  Bos- 
ton by  Charles  River.  It  contains  about  3000  inhabitants,  and  has 
two  jlact's  of  public  worship.  The  United  States  have  a  navy-yard 
and  i.narine  hospital  here,  and  towards  the  west  end  of  the  town, 
close  by  the  river  side,  is  the  State- Prison,  on  the  same  principle  as 
as  those  at  Philadelphia  and  New  York,  and  said  to  be  under  ex- 
cellent management.  At  the  north  side  of  the  town  is  BunkerN 
Hill,  celebrated  in  the  history  of  the  American  revolution. 

Leaving  Charlestown,  and  travelling  little  more  than  a  mile  by 
the  sea  coast,  we  arrived  at  Mystic  River,  which  we  passed  by  a 
bridge  2424  feet  long,  and  constructed  upon  the  same  principle  n» 
those  already  mentioned.  About  four  miles  from  thence  we  passed 
an  extensive  swamp,  where  we  were  assailed  by  musquetoes  of  a  ve- 


80 


TRAVELS   IN 


I 


II   ! 


:!   l!    :    i 


iiiiiii 


ry  large  size.  At  the  farther  end  of  the  swamp  we  passed  a  floating 
bridge,  and  a  little  after,  ascending  the  bank,  we  arrived  at  Lynn, 
where  we  stopped  to  change  horses  at  a  very  elegant  tavern.  Lynn 
is  a  pretty  little  town,  remarkable  for  its  extensive  manufacture  of 
shoes.  From  thence  we  travelled  to  Salem,  about  seven  miles, 
through  a  very  rugged  stony  country,  but  by  an  excellent  turnpike 
road,  made,  I  was  informed,  mostly  by  Irishmen.  I  may  here  take 
occasion  to  remark  that  the  Irish  emigrants  are  exceedingly  useful 
in  this  country,  and  a  great  portion  of  the  most  rugged  labour  in  it 
is  performed  by  them.  The  lower  orders  of  the  Irish  are  generally 
strong,  robust  men,  without  money,  and  with  a  very  sloader  educa- 
tion :  hence,  they  are  generally  unfit  for  any  kind  of  mercantile  em- 
ployment ;  and  those  who  have  not  learned  some  mechanical  pro- 
fession get  employment  in  various  branches  of  labour,  for  which 
they  are  well  adapted ;  and,  getting  good  wages,  they  soon  become 
independent  and  happy.  Hence,  the  Irish  are  remarkable  for  their 
attachment  to  the  American  goverimient,  while  many  other  foreign- 
ers, particulaily  those  engaged  m  commerce,  are  discontented  aua 
fretful.  J, 

The  moi'ning  was  damp  and  hazy;  so  that  the  view  of  the  coun- 
try was  not  very  agreeable  ;  and  it  was  with  regret  that  I  observed 
it  began  to  rain  just  as  I  entered  my  place  of  destination. 

Salem  is,  next  to  Boston,  the  lagest  town  in  Massachusetts, 
and  one  of  the  earliest  settled  in  the  state.  It  is  situated  on  a  pen- 
insula formed  by  two  branches  of  the  sea,  called  North  and  South 
Rivet's,  and  consists  of  about  1 500  houses,  and  contained,  in  1800, 
9547  inhabitants.  The  houses  are  built  partly  of  wood,  and  part- 
ly of  brick ;  and  many  ot  them  are  uncommonly  elegant.  The 
principal  public  buildings  are  a  court-house,  five  congregational 
churches,  and  one  each  for  quakers  and  episcopalians.  Salem  car- 
ries on  a  very  extensive  shipping  trade,  more  business  being  done 
here  in  that  line  than  in  any  town  in  the  New  England  states,  Bos- 
ton excepted.  There  is  a  ship-yard  in  Salem,  and  u  consider- 
able manufactory  of  sail-cloth.  A  bank  has  been  long  established. 
The  inhabitants  are  said  to  be  industrious  and  frugal,  and  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  town  indicates  a  considerable  accumulation  of  wealth, 
i  On  my  arrival,  1  went  to  see  the  wharves  t^d  shipping,  which 
are  very  extensive.  Salem  is  remarkable  as  being  the  residence 
of  Mr.  Gray,  reputed  the  greatest  ship -owner  in  America,  having 
n  vast  number  of  square-i igged  vessels,  mai:y  of  which  are  in  the 


saecl  a  floating  ^ 
ved  at  Lynn, 
avern.  Lynn 
Qanufacturc  of 
It  seven  miles, 
jUent  turnpike 
may  here  take 
ledingly  useful 
ed  labour  in  it 
I  are  generally 
sloader  educa- 
mcrcantile  em- 
echanical  pro- 
our,  for  which 
y  soon  become 
rkable  for  their 
'  othe"  foreign- 
scontented  aua 

iv  of  the  coiin- 

lat  I  observed 

ition.      ''  • 

Massachusctlsi, 

ated  on  a  pen- 

rth  and  South 

incd,  in  1800, 

)0(1,  and  part- 

Ejlegant.     The 

longregational 

,     Salem  car- 

ss  being  done 

d  states,  Bos- 

d  a  consider- 

i£  established. 

,  and  the  ap- 

ion  of  wealth. 

Ipping,  which 

Ithe  residence 

[erica,  having 

Icli  are  in  the 


MA&SACIIUSETIS.  81 

India  trade.  One  of  these  vessels  was  coming  into  port  while  I 
stood  on  the  wharf,  and  it  appeared  it  would  be  with  considerable 
I  difficulty  she  could  get  Into  the  harbour,  the  entrance  being  very 
shallow;  and  I  was  informed,  that  in  consequence  of  this  circum- 
stance   Mr.  Gray  was  about  to  remove  to  Boston. 

On  my  return  to  the  Coffee- House,  I  found  the  following  senti- 
jnient  in  one  of  the  Salem  newspapers  :    "  There  is  reason  to  fear 
\  t],at  a  peace  will  at  length  be  concluded  betwen  France  and  Britain ; 
[and  if  that  unfoHunatehj  be  the  case,    the  independence  of  the 
i  latter  is  gone  for  ever,  and  we  may  soon  look  for  an  attack   upon 
\  the  liberties  of  America."     In  the  course  of  my  travels  through 
the  United   States,    I   have  frequently  heard  similar  sentiments, 
principally  from  those  professing  the  greatest  regard  for  Britain ; 
but  I  must  say,  that  they  appear  to  me  to  be  very  incorrect.     I 
grant  it  is  better  for  Britain,  or  any  other  nation,    to  continue 
in  a  state  of  war,  than  to  make  a  dishonourable  peace,  or  to  sub- 
mit to  have  their  rights  infringed  by  their  neighbours ;  but  the 
sentiment  in  question,  unqualified  as  it  is,  seems  to  breat^ie  a  wish 
for  eternal  war.     It  expresses  a  dread  of  Britain  making  pe^oe  at 
all,  and  considers  war  and  independence  so  intimately  allied,  that 
the  one  cannot  be  given  up  without  the  other.    But,  in  my  opinion, 
the  greatest  curse  that  ever  befel  Britain  is  the  present  war — one 
of  the  greatest  blessings  to  that  country  would  be  an  honourable 
and  lasting  peace.     As  to  the  supposed  attack  upon  the  libcities  of 
America,  I  think  it  proceeds  upon  a  very  incorrect  view  of  the 
subject,  and  iraplies  an  iden  highly  derogatory  to  the  American 
character.    It  is  perfectly  obvious  to  me,  fi  m  what  I  have  seen  in 
this  country,    that  the  Americans  could  maintain  their  liberties 
against  the  whole  world  combined,  and  no  single  nation,  however 
powerful,  would  be  mar^  °nougti  to  make  an  attack,    which  would 
infallibly  end  in  disaster  and  disgrace.     America  contains  upwards 
of  six  millions  oifree  people,  and,  if  invaded,  could  at  a  short 
notice    turn  out  a  million  of  fighting  men.     This    fact  is   well 
known  in  Europe,  and  would,  of  course,  enter  into  the  calcu- 
lation of  any  general  who  would  plan  an  attack  upon  the  country. 
He  could  not  hope  for  success  without  at  least  an  equal  number ; 
and  we  may   safely  presume,  that  an   army   will  never  be  sent 
three  thousand  miles,  on  an  expedition  which,  though  successful, 
would  not  pay  one  thousandth  part  of  the  expense. 
The  afternoon  continued  wet,  and  rather  cold.     I  returned  to 

Dobtcui  in  the  Cv-oning  by  the  stiige.  11 


I  It 


S;  If, 


f  ,     ^ 


82 


TKAVELS    IN 


•...|^  1. 


■■'  »: 


,f.  - 


(  "liii.  'x* 


!. '■•;'* f  •*.* 


rt      t^. 


'  '^   CHAPTER  xin.  "  ;  '    ''^^ ;  : 

'     ,     '.\.         r  New  Hmnpshirem    *r    •^'*t  !  '-(Us  r   •  - 

IpEING  at  the  extremity  of  my  journey  to  the  north-eastward, 
nnd  in  the  mctropoh's  of  the  New  England  states,  I  shall,  before 
leaving  it,  take  a  view  of  the  states  of  New  Hampshire  and  Ver- 
mont.    ,  . 

.,   ,     ..,!•;-     NEW  HAMPSHIRE 

Is  situated  between  42°  42'  and  4S®  13'  north  latitude,  and*" 
23'  and  6°  10'  east  longitude.  Its  greatest  length  is  182,  audits 
greatest  breadth  92  miles.  Its  area  is  9491  square  miles,  contain- 
ing 6,074,240  acres. 

The  state  has  about  1 5  miles  of  sea-coast,  from  whence  it  ex- 
tends in  breadth,  and  is  generally  level  towards  the  sea,  rising 
gradually  from  20  to  30  miles,  when  the  mountains  commence, 
and  these  are  more  lofty  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  United 
States;  the  White  Mountains  being  visible  30  miles  out  at  sen, 
and  computed  by  Dr.  Belknap  at  10,000  feet,  by  Mr.  Williams 
at  7800.  There  are  large  and  rich  valleys  among  the  mountains, 
and  a  number  of  level  plains  along  Connecticut  river.  There 
are  several  lakes  in  the  state,  but  none  of  any  great  importance, 
except  Winnipiseogee,  near  the  centre,  24  miles  long,  and  of 
unequal  breadth,  from  3  to  1 2  miles.  It  is  full  of  islands,  and, 
being  navigable  in  summer,  and  frozen  over  in  winter,  it  proves 
a  considerable  convenience  to  that  part  of  the  country.  The 
principal  river  is  Connecticut,  which  is  the  boundary  line  between 
this  state  and  Vermont.  The  Piscataqua  is  the  boundaiy  line, 
for  a  little  way,  between  this  state  and  the  district  of  Maine;  and 
forms  the  harbour  for  the  only  shipping  port  in  New  Hamp- 
shire. There  is  a  singular  curiosity  in  the  state  called  the  Notch, 
which  is  a  pass  througli  the  mountains,  at  one  place  only  22 
feet  wide,  and,  being  bounded  by  rocks  almost  perpendicular, 
atid  of  great  height,  presents  a  sceoe  strikingly  picturesque. 

The  minerals  quoted  are  ochres,  isinglass,  chrystals,  sulphur, 
free-stone,  lead,  black  lead,  and  copper ;  but  the  most  valua- 
ble i»  iron,  which  is  found  in  many  places,  and  is  wrought  in 
considerable  quantities. 

'Hie  soil,  near  the  sea -coast,  is  in  some  places  sandy,   but  near 


11 


j'i^ri  I 


NEW    HAMPSHIKE. 


83 


north-eastward, 

I  shall,  before 

ashirc  and  Vcr- 


latitude,  and*" 
is  182,  audits 
miles,  contain- 

I  whence  it  ex- 

the  sea,  rising 

lins  commence, 

of  the  United 

iles  out  at  sea, 

Mr.  Williams 
the  mountains, 

river.  There 
at  importance, 

long,  and  ol 
)f  islands,  and, 
ntcr,  it  proves 
country.  The 
ry  line  between 
bonndai-y  line, 
of  Maine;  and 

New  Hamjv 
lled  the  Notch, 

place  only  22 

perpendicular, 

uresque. 

stals,  sulphur, 
most    valua- 

is  wrought  in 

ndy,   but  near 


the  banks  of  rivers  generally  good,  as  is  likewise  the  case  in  the 
alleys  among  the  mountains.     The  mountain;!  are,  many  of  tlicnj, 
rocky  and  barren,  but  others  are  fertile  on  the  brows,  and  nearly 
all  are  covered  with  timber.  ww^-rf.  ,-.  ;. 

The  climate  is  healthy,  but  the  winters  arc  long  and  severe, 
,nd  there  are  great  extremes  of  heat  and  cold.  Mr.  Belknap 
has  observed  the  thermometer  at  18°  below  0°,  and  in  summer  it 
has  risen  to  nearly  100" ;  the  average  is  about  48°  or  50°.  Snow 
lies  on  the  ground  from  three  to  four  months,  and  the  use  of 
sleijjhs,  during  that  period,  is  general.  The  spring  is  rapid  ;  and 
the  summer  and  tall  are  generally  pleasant. 

Tlie  country  was  first  discovered  in  1614.  ^flie  first  settlement 
was  made  in  1623.  The  inhabitants  took  an  active  part  in  the 
revolutionary  war,  and  sent  two  delegates  to  congress  in  1774; 
in  1788  they  adopted  the  federal  constitution;  and  the  state  con* 
stitution,  as  it  now  stands,  was  ratified  in  1792.  The  state  sends 
two  senators  and  five  representatives  to  congress. 

The  state  is  divided  into  six  counties,  and  219  townships,  of 
six  miles  square  each.  Its  population  in  1800  was  183,850,  being 
nearly  20  to  the  square  mile. 

Although  this  appears  but  a  thin  population,  yet  it  is  to  be  ob- 
served,*that  a  great  part  of  the  state  is  covered  by  mountains,  which 
are  incapable  of  cultivation.  The  sea -coast,  valleys,  and  fertile 
spots,  are  said  to  be  thickly  settled,  and  these  places  have  kept 
pace  in  improvements  with  the  other  New  England  states.  Ports- 
mciith,  on  the  Piscataqua  river,  two  miles  from  the  sea,  is  the 
j)rincipal  town,  and  being  the  only  seaport,  it  has  a  pretty  good 
trade;  it  contains  5,500  inhabitants.  Concord  is  the  seat  of 
government,  and  contains  2050.  Dover  contains  2062;  Amherst, 
2150:  Hanover,  1920;  Exeter,  1730:  Keene,  1645;  Charleston, 
1634;  Durham,  1128;  there  aru  3  others,  containing  from  500 
to  1000. 

Small  villages  and  farm-houses  are  numerous,  and  the  country 
is  pretty  well  supplied  with  good  roads,  and  some  elegant  bridges, 
of  which  the  chief  is  across  the  Piscataqua,  seven  miles  above 
Portsmouth.     It  is  2600  feet  long,  and  cost  68,000  dollars.   ' 

Agricultare  is  the  chief  business  of  the  state,  and  is  well  con- 
ducted. The  principal  products  are  beeii  pork,  mutton,  poultry, 
wheat,  corn,  and  other  grain;  butter,  cheese,  flax>  hemp,  hops, 
vegetables,  apples,  pears,  &c. ....   . 


\m 


84 


TRAVELS   IN 


The  country  people  generally  mauufacturo  their  own  clothing, 
and  make  considerable  quantities  uf  tow  cloth  for  exportation* 
The  other  manufactures  are  aslies,  maple-sugar,  bricks,  pottery, 
and  iron  ware. 

A  great  part  of  the  surplus  produce  of  this  state  is  carried  to 
Boston,  which  prevents  it  from  making  a  great  figure  in  the  scale 
of  exports;  the  amount  in  1805,  was  608,408  dollars,  but  it  seldom 
exceeds  half  a  million.     All  the  ex)K>rt  trade  centres  at  Portsmouth. 

The  inhabitants  are  represented  as  hardy,  robust,  and  active. 
Education  has  been  very  veil  attended  to.  There  is  a  college  at 
Dartmouth,  supported  by  a  grant  of  80,000  acres  of  land,  and 
there   are  a  number  of  academies,  schools,  and  public  libraries. 

The  government  is  founded  upon  a  bill  of  rights,  declaring 
that  all  men  are  born  equally  free  and  independent ;  and  that  all 
government  originates  from  the  people :  that  every  man  has  a 
right  to  worship  God  according  to  the  dictates  of  his  conscience; 
that  all  elections  ought  to  be  free,  and  that  every  inhabitant  ot' 
the  state,  having  the  proper  qualificatipns,  has  an  equal  right  to 
elect,  and  be  elected,  into  office :  that  tliere  $hall  be  no  hereditary 
rights,  and  that  the  press  shall  be  free,  .-,  ,. 

The  exercise  of  the  government  is  vested  in  a  legislature,  con- 
sisting of  a  senate  and  house  of  representatives ;  a  governor  and 
council  to  execute  the  laws;  and  a  judiciary  to  promote  justice 
between  man  and  man.  The  senate  consists  of  13  members, 
chosen  annually  by  the  people ;  each  member  must  be  pos- 
sessed of  a  freehold  estate  of  £.  200.  The  representatives 
are  apportioned  according  to  the  population,  every  town  which 
has  150  rateable  polls  being  entitled  to  one  representative;  having 
450,  they  are  entitled  to  two.  They  are  alsQ  elected  annually, 
and  must  be  possessed  of  a  freehold  of  j£.  100.  The  governor  is, 
in  like  manner,  elected  annually,  and  must  be  possessed  of  a 
freehold  of  jf ,  500.  There  are  five  counsellors,  who  are  chosen 
annually,  who  must  be  possessed  of  freeholds  of  ^-  3Q0. 

The  following  extract  from  the  constitution  ought  to  be  gene- 
rally known. 

"  Knowledge  and  learning,  generally  diffused  through  a  con> 
munily,  being  essential  to  the  preservation  of  a  free  government, 
and  spreading  the  opportunities  and  advantages  of  education 
through  the  various  parts  of  the  country,  being  highly  conducive 
to  promote  this  end ;  it  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  legislfttors  and 


'  1^  'I.  ! 


I 


VERMONT.  85 

magistrates,  in  all  future  periods  of  this  government,  to  cherish 
the  interest  of  literature  and  the  sciences,  and  all  seminaries  and  pub- 
lic schools,  to  encourage  private  and  public  institutions,  rewards  and 
immunities  ibr  the  promotion  of  agriculture,  arts,  sciences,  com- 
merce, trade,  ninnufactures,  and  natural  historj  of  the  country ; 
to  countenance  and  inculcate  the  principles  of  humanity  and  general 
benevolence,  public  and  private  charity,  industry  and  economy, 
honesty  and  punctuality,  sincerity,  sobriety,  and  all  social  affec- 
tions and  generous  sentiments,  among  the  people." 


U' 


gislaturc,  con- 


CH\PTER  XIV. 

Is  situated  between  42°  42'  and  45°  north  latitude,  and  3<»  38^ 
and  5°  27'  east  longitude.  It  is  166  miles  long,  and  its  greatest 
breadth  is  93  miles.  Its  area  is  about  10,237  square  miles,  or 
6,551,680  acres.  ,  . 

This  state  is  mostly  hilly,  but  not  rocky,  and  towards  Canada 
it  is  level.  An  extensive  chain  of  high  mountains  runs  through 
the  middle,  nearly  south  and  north,  which  abounds  with  elegant 
scenery.  Among  these  there  are  beautiful  and  fertile  valleys; 
and  the  whole  is  finely  watered  with  springs.  Lake  Champlain 
and  its  waters  divides  the  state  from  New  York  on  the  west ;  and 
the  Connecticut  riyer  from  New  Hampshire  on  the  east.  There 
are  several  rivers  ^wards  Canada.  No  part  of  the  state  is  on  the 
seaboard. 

Iron  is  found  in  abundance  throughout  the  state.  Lead,  cop- 
peras, flint,  and  vitriol  have  been  found,  and  the  west  side  of 
the  state  abounds  with  marble. 

•  This  state,  notwithstanding  its  mountains,  contains  a  great  deal 
of  excellent  soil. 

The  climate  is  similar  to  New  Hampshire. 

The  territory  composing  Vermont,  was  long  claimed  by  the 
tidjoining  states  of  New  Hampshire  and  New  York  ;  but  the  in- 
nabitants  wished  it  to  become  an  independent  state  in  1777,  and 
the  green  mountttt*  bot/Si  as  they  were  called,  took  a  very  active 
part  in  the  war  of  the  revolution ;  but  they  did  not  succeed  in 
eiitablighing  their  claim  of  independence  till  1791}   when  they 


"«"' 


•i'.uni, ' ;  I'i^i); 


VEIIMONT. 


nA 


admUted,  a  14th  state,  into  the  union.  The  constitution 
wn  adopted  in  1793,  and  Vermont  now  sends  two  senntora  nod 
four  reprcicntatives  to  congress. 

The  state  is  divided  into  12  counties,  and  245  townships  of  six 
miles  sqfrare.  The  popuhition,  by  the  census  of  1800,  wai 
154)465,  being  upwards  of  15  to  the  square  mile. 
■=  Vermont  being  off  the  sea-coast,  or,  as  it  is  sometimes  termed, 
far  from  a  market,  there  are  no  large  commercial  cities ;  but  there 
are  a  number  of  Uttle  towns,  few  of  which  have  more  than  two 
thousand  inhabitants.  .  .t^^ '.f  i 

MoNTPELLiER  is  thc  seat  of  government,  and  contains  1500; 
Bennington  2250,  Windsor  2200,  Rutland  2130,  Newbury  2OO0, 
Manchester  2000,  Newfane  J  700,  St.  Alban's  1400,  Middlebury 
1260,  Burlington  1100,  St.  Hero  1000,  Craftsbury  1000,  Bruns- 
wick  1000. 

The  great  business  of  thc  state  is  agriculture,  in  which  the  inha- 
bitants arc  said  to  have  made  cpnsiderable  progress.  The  soil  is 
generally  more  productive  than  that  of  New  Hampshire ;  the  pro- 
duce is  nearly  thc  same.  The  brows  of  the  mountains  answer  well 
for  grazing :  they  raise  great  stores  pf  beef  and  pork,  with  ex- 
cellent butter  and  cheese  for  market ;  and  of  late  they  have  made 
great  progress  in  raising  sheep  and  wool, 

>  The  principal  manufactures  are  of  the  domestic  kind,  consisting 
of  wool  and  flax,  for  family  use,  Iron  is  manufactured ;  and  a  con- 
siderable quantity  of  pot  and  pearl  ashes. 

The  only  external  trade  of  Vermont  is  with  Canada,  and  the  ex- 
ports, in  1805,  amounted  to  169,402  dollars,*  but  the  state  h(^  a 
(Considerable  commerce,  through  the  medium  of  its  rivers,  with 
New  York,  Hartford  and  Boston. 

The  inhabitants  are  represented,  by  travellers  whom  I  have  conver. 
ftcdwitb,  as beinghardy,  robust,  full-featured>  and  florid  in  their  com- 
plexions :  as  they  are  mostly  all  agriculturalists  or  mechanics,  they 
are  independent  in  their  sentiments,  and  their  wants  being  mostly 
^supplied  among  themselves,  they  are  not  subject  to  great  vicissi- 
tudes of  fortune,  and  are  generally  wealthy  in  proportion  as  they 
are  industrious.  The  system  of  education  partakes  of  this.equality : 
they  have  two  seminaries  for  the  higher  branches  of  education ;  but 
thft  qhief  object  of  the  legislature  h.'is  been  to  provide  for  the  gene- 
ral difiufion  of  knowledge,  by  having  common  schools  in  every  to^vn- 
ship:  apSan  highly  praiseworthy,  and  which  every  community 
ought  to  imitate. 


MASSACiiusrrTS.  87 

The  declaration  of  rights  i»  nearly  the  8ame  m  that  of  New 
lampshire;  but  they  have  aii  article  declaring  that  no  male  bom 
hi  the  country,  or  brought  over  sea,  cigi  be  held  in  b«ndage  after 
II,  and  no  female  after  18  years  of  age. 

TIio  plan  of  government  is  legislative,  executive  and  judiciary. 

ic  legishuive  poM'cr  is  vested  in  representatives,  chosen  annually* 
svcrv  free  mnleof21  years  and  upwards,  who  pays  taxes,  having  <  a 
►ote.  The  executive  is  vested  in  a  governor,  lieutcnant-^gorenlor, 
ind  council  of  12,  chosen  annually,  in  like  manner:  and  in  order 
^'  that  the  freedom  of  the  commonwealth  may  be  kept  inviolate  for 
»ver,"  a  council  of  censors  is  chosen  once  in  seven  years,  whose  duly 
|t  is  to  SCO  that  the  constitution  has  been  preserved  inviolate ;  whe- 
ther the  tuxes  have  been  paid,  and  the  public  monies  properly  dis- 
posed of;  whether  the  public  servants  have  done  thoir  duty,  and 
the  laws  been  duly  executed :  and  they  are  empowered,  if  they 
ludge  it  necessary,  to  call  a  convention,  to  meet  two  years  after 
\heh'  sitting,  to  revibC  and  amend  the  constitution.  ( 

.     CHArXEIl  XV.     •  ^ 

I* 

Cambridge^ —  Worcester ^ — Spring  field ^ — Sttffield.  \  - 

ixIaVING  taken  my  leave  of  a  number  of  kind  friends,  with  whom 
ll  had  associated  during  my  stay  in  Boston,  I  engaged  a  passage  by 
[the  mail  stage  for  New  York,  and  was  called  to  take  my  place  on 
[the  ^tli  of  September,  at  2  o'clock  in  the  morning.    It  is  the  prac- 
tice here  for  the  driver  to  call  on  the  passengers,  before  setting  out, 
ind  it  is  .ittended  with  a  considerable  degree  of  convenience  to  them, 
Particularly  when  they  set  out  early  in  the  morning.     The  mail 
stages  here  are  altogether  dilTerent  in  construction  from  the  m^il 
[;oachcs  in  Britain ;  they  are  long  machines,  hung  upon  leather  bra- 
[ces,  with  three-  seats  across,  of  a  sufficient  length  to  accommodate 
[three  persons  each,  who  ail  sit  with  their  faces  towards  ^he  horses : 
[the  driver  sits  under  cover,  without  any  division  between  him  and 
[the  passengers,  and  there  is  room  for  r  person  to  sit  on  each  side 
[of  him.    The  driver,  by  the  post-office  regulations,  must  be,  a  white 
jmaii,  and  he  has  the  charge  of  the  mail,  which  is  placed  in  a  box  b^« 
[low  his  seat:  there  is  no  guard.     The  passengers'  lugg^ige  is  {hit 
[below  the  seats,  or  tied  on  behind  the  stage;  they  put,  liothLpg  on 


^  vr  ^. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


^\^. 


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1.0 


I.I 


l^l^jS    ■2.5 

itt  1^   [2.2 

S  144   "" 
2.0 


HiotDgraphic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


33  WIST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MSSO 

(716)  S72-4S03 


'4^ 


M    ■! 


\V'U 


88  TRAWLS    IN 

the  top)  And  they  take  no  outside  passengers.  The  stages  are  sh'giii- 
ly  built,  and  the  roof  supported  on  pillars ;  with  a  curtain,  to  be  let 
down  or  folded  up,  at  pleasure.  The  conveyance  is  easy,  and  in 
summer  very  agreeable ;    but  it  must  be  excessively  cold  in  winter. 

There  was  an  Englisman,  a  facetious,  merry  fellow,  who  lodg- 
ed  at  Chappotin's,  and  took  his  passage  along  with  me.  On  tak- 
ing  our  places,  we  found  a  lady  passenger  already  in  the  stage, 
and  our  company  was  afterwards  augmented  by  three  more,  nume- 
ly,  a  gentleman  Irom  the  West  Indies,  one  from  Hudson,  ajid  u 
young  lady.  By  the  time  we  got  all  the  passengers  and  the  mail 
on  boards  it  was  3  o'clock,  at  which  hour  we  set  out  from  Boston 
by  West  Boston  bridge ;  and  three  miles  beyond  it  we  passed 
through  Cambridge,  which,  at  that  early  hour,  I  could  not  sec, 
but  1  learned  that  the  situation  is  handsome,  and  that  it  contains 
a  university,  which  is  reputed  the  best  literary  institution  in  the 
United  States.  It  was  established  in  1638,  and  has  now  four 
large  buildings,  with  accommodations  sufficient  to  contain  up- 
wards of  200  students,  who  attend  it  annually,  and  are  instructed 
|n  all  the  various  branches  of  human  knowledge.  Attached  to 
the  institution  are  a  philosophical  apparatus,  a  small  museum,  and 
a  very  extensive  library.  The  village  of  Cambridge  contains  about 
1000  inhabitants.  The  houses  are  mostly  Iniilt  of  wood.  Tiic 
public  buildings  arc,  besides  the  university,  a  court-house,  an  c- 
piscopal,  and  a  congregational  church. 

We  travelled  13  miles  before  we  had  fuir  day-light,  during 
which,  we  passed  through  Watertown  and  Waltham,  to  Weston. 
It  is  to  be  observed,  that  towns,  in  the  New  England  states,  do 
not  always  imply  a  collection  of  houses  in  one  place,  sufficient  to 
form  a  village.  The  whole  country  is  divided  into  districts,  of 
about  six  miles  square  each,  and  these  are  called  towns,  whether 
they  be  thickly  settled  or  not.  The  arrangement  of  these  towns 
is  somewhat  assimilated  to  the  parishes  in  Scotland,  having  each  a 
separate  jurisdiction  within  itself,  which  regulates  the  affiiirs  of  re- 
ligion and  of  education,  and  makes  provision  for  the  poor.  They 
are  also  of  great  importance  in  the  elections,  which  are  conducted 
throughout  the  whole  state  in  one  day,  the  people  voting  in  their 
respective  towns,  which  has  a  tendency  to  prevent  all  bustle  and 
confusion.  In  traveUing  through  the  country,  you  go  from  one 
town  to  another,  and  are  never  out  of  one ;  it  is  therefore,  only 
where  the  towns  contain  \'llagcs,  that  I  mean  to  notice  them,  and. 


se,    an  e- 


MASSACHUSETTS. 

in  giving  the  population,  it  is  to  be  observed,  that  it  includes  the 
whole  of  the  township,  that  being  the  mode  in  which  the  census  is 
taken.  Westov,  which  I  last  noticed,  contains  about  I'iOO  in- 
habitants. The  country  is  said  to  be  well  cultivated  and  thickly 
settled,  all  the  way  from  Boston. 

We  could  now  see  one  another's  faces,  and  the  morning  being 
clear  and  healthy,  we  were  in  high  spirits,  and  disposed  lor  en* 
joymcnt.  One  of  our  lady  passengers  was  a  beautilul  country 
girl,  but  we  learned  that  she  wos  to  travel  with  us  only  28  miles ; 
and  our  facetious  Englishman  seemed  disposoil  to  improve  the 
time  by  orations  in  favour  of  lier  eyes,  or  beautiful  twinklas  as 
he  called  them.  They  certainly  were  very  pretty,  and  she  had 
a  blooming  look,  the  indication  of  a  blythe  hearty  according  to  the 
Scots  proverb.  The  other  lady,  we  learned,  was  travelling  to 
Springfield,  80  miles;  but  she  was  quite  eclipsed  by  her  fair 
companion,  and  came  in  for  no  share  of  the  Englishman's  com- 
pliments, while  the  other  remained  with  uSi 

From  Weston,  we  passed  through  a  thickly  settled  and  well 
cultivated  country,  by  Sudbury,  Marlborough,  and  W^estborough; 
and,  45  miles  from  Boston,  we  arrived  at  Worcester, 

This  is  a  pretty  place,  and  said  to  be  one  of  the  largest  inland 
towns  in  the  state.  It  is  the  capital  of  a  county  to  which  it  gives 
the  name,  and  is  situated  in  a  pleasant  valley,  mostly  on  one 
street,  which  is  broad  and  handsome.  The  houses  are  generally 
of  wood,  painted  white;  and  are  in  number  about  400.  The 
inhabitants  amount  to  about  2500.  The  public  buildings  are  a 
cotirt-house,  jail,  and  2  congregational  churches.  They  have  a 
pretty  extensive  inland  trade  at  this  place,  and  the  printing  busi- 
ness has  been  long  established  here  by  a  Mr.  Thomas,  who 
is  reputed  to  be  the  oldest  printer  in  America.  It  is  proposed  to 
open  an  inland  navigation  between  this  place  and  Providence, 
distant  about  40  miles,  and  if  it  should  take  place,  it  is  sup- 
posed that  it  will  be  attended  with  great  advantage. 

From  thence  we  passed  through  Leicester  and  Spencer,  and, 
getting  into  a  hilly  country,  we  continued  our  course  to  Brook- 
field,  about  21  miles  from  Worcester.  This  is  a  handsome 
post-tow^n,  situated  on  Quebang  river,  20  miles  above  its  junc- 
tion with  Connecticut  river,  and  in  a  rich,  fertile  country, 
abounding  in  grain,  grass,  fruits,  and  vegetables:  it  contains 
nearly  3000  inhabitants,  and  has  four  places  for  public  worship. 

12 


'm 


11 


90 


TRAVELS    IN 


L  i'm 


i    •,; 


:,i,!*  n> 


The  river    abounds  with  ii&h,   unci   the  country  round  containi 
great  quantities  of  iron  ore. 

Seven  miles  from  hence  we  reached  Western,  73  miles  from 
Uoston ;  and  here  day-light  having  failed  us,  my  observations  on 
the  scenery  of  the  country  were  terminated  for  the  day. 

This  was  the  first  inland  journey  I  had  made  in  the  northern 
states,  and  1  was  highly  delighted  with  every  thing  I  saw,  which 
f«)rmcd  a  perfect  contrast  to  Georgia ;  and  the  villages,  the  fields, 
the  farm-houses,  the  gardens,  and  the  orchards,  far  surpassed 
what  is  to  be  generally  seen,  even  in  "  Scotia,  my  dear,  my  na- 
tive soil."  The  inhabitants  every  where  appeared  to  be  industri- 
ous, contented,  and  happy;  and  I  found  them  always  civil  and 
well-bred,  and  ready  to  give  me  every  inibrmation. 

Oiu*  company  were  lively  and  cheerful.     Our  facetious  English* 
man  was  quite  in  high  s|)irits ;  and  jocularly  threatened  to  have 
me  denounced  as  a  spy.     I  retaliated  by  threatening  to  have  him 
denounced  as  a  flatterer  of  the  fair  sex,  of  whom  he  seemed  df« 
terniincd  to  spare  neither  age,  features,  nor  complexion ;  for  the 
beauti^  having  left  us,  and  ceasing  to  allure  him  by  her  "  witch- 
ing smile,"  the  other  lady,    whom  I   did  not  think  handsome, 
came  in  for  an  extravagant   share   of  compliment.     "  The  night 
tlrave  on  wi'  sangs  an'  clatter."     Our  West  Indian,  who  was  a 
Yankee  by  birth,  entertained  us  with  a  history  o^  bundlittg ;  and 
we  had  a  vast  variety  of  songs,  among  which  was  "  Yankee  Doodle.'^ 
In   prosecuting   our  journey  to   Springfiekl,  we  stopped  at  a 
siiiall  tavera  to  change  horses,  and  in  the   mean  time  went  into 
the  house  to  warm  ourselves,  for  the  evening  had  become  cold. 
In  passing  through   the  parlour  we  saw   a  tall,  elegant  girl,  t» 
whom  our  gentlemen  began  immediately  to  make  love  ;  but  I  pro* 
secuted  my  way  to  the  kitchen  fire,  where  there  sat  onotbev  young 
girl,  and  she  was  beautiful.     She  was  dressed  in  substantial  home- 
spun, but  very  clean,    and   was  knitting  a  stocking.      Hev  ajit 
might  be  about   16,  and  her  name  was  Lucretia.     I  entered  into 
conversation  with  her,  and  her  voice  was  as  sweet  as  her  counte- 
nance.    I  was  delighted  with  her  appearance.     At  length  in  came 
the  other  passengers,  loith  a  bang ;    and  our  facetious  friend,  who 
seemed  to  have  reserved  the   very  quintessence  of  his  talent  for 
compliment  for  the  occasion,  began  an  oration  about  fine  arched 
eye-brows,  aquiline  noses,  and  beautiful  twinklers,  which  proba* 
bly  would  have  lasted  half  an  hour,  had  wc  not  been  called  awajr 


MASSAGHUSFTTS. 


w 


nd  contain! 


?i'vations  OQ 


ol>sfrvcHl  lliat    all 
the    Yankee    hidx 


to  take    our  scats   in   the  slope.     We   soon 

parties    were     not    pleasetl,    lor   wo    heart! 

grumbling  as  we  passed  them ;    niul  the  Yankee   lady   passenger 

observed,  with  a   toss  of  her  head,  that  she  could  nut  see  what 

we  all  had  to  make  such  a  fuss  about. 

At  10  o'clock  we  reached  Spiungfield,  said  to  be  a  handsome 
and  thriving  town,  situated  on  the  east  side  of  the  Connecticut 
river,  97  miles  from  Boston.  It  contains  about  1500  inhabitants, 
who  carry  on  a  considerable  inland  trade ;  and  have  cstabliiihed 
a  respectable  manufactory  of  fire-arms.  The  public  buildings  arc 
a  court-house  and  a  congregational  church. 

The  Connecticut  River,  on  which  Springfield  is  situated,  is 
one  of  the  most  considerable  and  important  in  the  United  Stati>s. 
It  rises  on  the  high  lands  which  separate  the  states  of  Vermont 
and  New  Hampshire  from  Upper  Canada;  and  pursuintr  a  course 
a  little  to  the  west  of  south,  falls  into  I^ng  Inland  Sound ;  its 
length,  including  its  windings,  being  about  300  miles.  It  forn)s 
the  boundary  line  between  Vermont  and  New  Hampshire,  and 
passes  through  the  interior  of  Massachusetts  and  Connecticut. 
Its  banks  are  highly  cultivated  and  thickly  settled,  through  its 
whole  course.  There  is  a  bar  at  its  outlet,  on  which  there  is  only 
10  feet  water,  and  interiorly  it  is  much  obstructetl  by  falls ;  but 
it  b  navigable  foi  sea  vessels  to  Hartford ;  and  there  is  a  great 
trade  on  the  river  above  that  place ;  ))articularly  downwards,  in 
flat-bottomed  boats.  The  river  abounds  with  salnuui,  and 
other  fish.  It  is  in  contemplation  to  improve  the  navigation  by 
locks  at  several  places,  and  to  connect  it  with  Mcrrintac  river, 
distant  50  miles,  by  a  canal. 

Having  crossed  this  river,  the  road  runs  nearly  along  its  west 
bank,  10  miles,  to  Suffield,  in  Connecticut,  where  we  stopped 
for  the  night.  Here  I  suspend  my  account  of  the  journey,  to 
take  a  short  review  of  the  interesting  state  of  Massachusetts. 


n 


MAssAciiusrrrs. 


nn-^ 


liS  i 


h  ■■ 


i'N    !>■ 


:"'U 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Massachussets 

Is  situated  between  41®  13'  and  ^2°  52'  north  latitude,  and  3» 
28'  and  7**  east  longitude.  Its  extreme  length  is  l&O  miles,  and 
its  greatest  breadth  100.  Its  squaie  contents  is  87G5  miles,  being 
about  5,609,600  acres. 

The  face  of  the  country  is  strikingly  diversified.  The  Coast  on 
the  east  side,  is  indented  with  bays,  and  studded  with  islands, 
which  aiibrd  ample  harbours  for  shipping,  and  support  a  hardy 
race  of  sailors  and  fishermen.  Toward  the  middle  the  surface  is 
agreeably  uneven,  and  the  west  swells  out  into  mountains,  some 
of  which  are  of  very  considerable  height.  The  state  is  well  water- 
ed, abounding  in  rivers  and  small  lakes.  The  principal  rivers  are 
Connecticut  and  Merrimac,  already  noticed. 

The  principal  mineral  is  iron,  of  which  the  state  produces  a 
great  quantity.  A  copper  mine  has  been  discovered;  and  there 
are  considerable  quantities  of  clays  and  ochres,  and  slate,  marble, 
and  limestone. 

The  soil  is  various.  Toward  the  sea-coast  it  is  sandy  and 
barren ;  in  the  interior  it  improves ;  and  toward  the  western 
parts,  where  the  country  is  hilly,  it  is  best  adapted  for  grazing. 
Wheat  crops  arc  not  abundant,  but  it  produces  Indian  corn, 
rye,  barley,  and  oats.  Vegetables  and  fruit  come  to  great  per- 
fection, and  are  of  much  value  in  the  state.  Flax  and  some  hemp 
are  cultivated;  and  hops  grow  luxuriantly. 

The  climate  is  very  much  assimilated  to  that  of  Rhode  Island. 
Toward  the  west,  the  winters  are  more  cold  and  severe  than  on  the 
coast,  but  the  weather  is  more  steady,  and  the  whole  is  healthy. 

Massachusetts  was  first  settled  in  1620,  by  a  colony  of  puritans 
from  Holland,  who  had  been  driven  there  from  England,  20  years 
before.  These  arrived  and  settled  at  Plymouth  ;  and  eight  years 
thereafter,  another  colony  arrived  from  England,  and  settled  at 
8aleni.  These  colonies  soon  encreased,  and  laid  the  foundation 
for  a  powerful  state,  now  one  of  the  first  in  the  union.  The 
revolution  originated  in  Massachusetts,  which  bore  an  active  share 
throughout  the  war.  It  now  sends  1 7  representatives  and  two 
}>enutors  to  the  congress  of  the  United  Sates. 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


93 


Massachusetu  proper,  is  divided  into  12  counties  and  279 
townships.  The  inhabitants,  by  last  census,  amounted  to  422,845, 
being  about  48  to  the  square  mile.  .      . 

This  state  is  well  cultivated,  and  abounds  with  wealth.  Boston 
is  the  capital,  and  tlie  next  town  in  importance  is  Salem.  These, 
ami  several  others,  have  been  noticed.  Of  the  remainder,  the 
most  important  is  Marbleheadj  a  sea-port,  containing  upwards  of 
5000  inhabitants.  Newbun/port  is  a  handsome  sea-jwrt,  con- 
taining nearly  6000  inhabitants,  and  has  several  manufactories, 
and  a  large  shipping  trade.  Ipswich  contains  3000  inhabitants; 
and  Concord^  a  flourishing  town  on  Concord  river,  is  remarka- 
ble as  being  the  place  where  the  provincial  congress  held  their  de- 
liberations during  the  war.  Taunton,  Northampton,  Stockbridge, 
Pittsfkld,  and  Barnstaple,  are  all  towns  of  considerable  note. 
The  state  is  intersected  in  every  direction  with  good  roads,  and 
the  bridges  are  numerous  and  very  important. 

The  greater  part  of  the  manufactures  have  already  been  enume- 
rated in  the  account  of  Boston ;  but  it  may  be  noticed,  that,  in  the 
interior,  there  is  a  vast  variety  of  domestic  manufactures ;  and  several 
others  upon  a  larger  hcale,  particularly  of  woollen  and  cotton. 

The  exports  of  the  state  are  provisions,  timber,  ashes,  flax-seed, 
bees-wax,  fish,  oil,  saddlery,  cabinet-work,  boots  and  shoes,  nails, 
tow-cloth,  iron  utensils,  glass,  spirits,  &c.  The  imports  are  British 
manufactures,  tea,  wine,  silks,  spirits,  coffee,  cotton,  &c.  Com- 
merce is  pursued  with  an  ardent  spirit  in  the  state ;  and  it  is  said 
that  Massachusetts  owns  more  sliipping  than  any  other  state  in  the 
union.  The  exports,  in  1805,  amounted  to  19,435,657  dollars; 
but  14,738,606  dollars  consisted  of  foreign  produce,  and,  of  the  re- 
mainder, a  considerable  portion  was  that  of  other  states.  The  state 
has  very  extensive  fisheries,  the  product  of  which  is  annually  of 
great  value. 

The  state  of  society  is  a  good  deal  assimilated  to  that  of  Rhode 
Island,  described  in  the  tenth  chapter,  with  this  essential  difference, 
that  slavery  is  totally  abolished  in  all  its  branches.  The  air  is,  like- 
that  of  Britain,  "  too  pure  for  a  slave  to  live  in ;"  and,  with  regard 
to  the  white  people,  I  think  it  is  <<  more  pure,"  for  here  they  are  all 
on  an  equal  footing,  having  neither  nobles,  nor. priests,  nor  rent% 
nortythes.  The  religious  matters,  like  the  state  of  Rhode  Island, 
and,  indeed,  all  the  other  states,  are  managed  by  cack  religious  sect 
ia  it^  own  way,  who  are  not  suffered  to  interfere  with  the  civil 


!! 


,1  r  ••' 


I  I)  '         I  n- 


'    i 


1,  ■     I 


t  (  ;    .  'it.'  ■ 

Urn: 


94  TBAVBLS   IN 

rights  of  theit  neighbours,  so  that  the  sting  is  drawn  out  of  tlie  tail 
of  the  scorpion  of  religious  discord.  No  sect  is  elevated  above  ano- 
ther ;  and  all  have  reason  to  be  thankful  for  the  blessings  they  en- 
joy, in  the  protection  of  equal  laws.  The  literary,  humane,  and 
other  institutions,  are  numerous,  and  exhibit  a  fair  trait  in  the  cha- 
racter of  the  inhabitants. 

On  the  subject  of  literature,  the  constitution  declares  that  "  wis- 
dom and  knowledge,  as  well  as  virtue,  diffused  generally  among  the 
body  of  the  people,  being  necessary  £br  the  preservation  of  their 
rights  and  liberties ;  and  as  these  depend  on  spreading  the  oppor- 
tunities and  advantages  of  education  in  the  various  parts  of  the 
country,  and  among  the  different  orders  of  the  people,  it  shall  be 
the  duty  of  the  legislatures  and  magistrates,  in  all  future  periods  of 
the  commonwealth,  to  cherish  the  interests  of  literature  and  the  sci- 
ences, and  all  seminaries  of  them ;  especially  the  university  at  Cam- 
bridge, public  schools,  and  grammar-schools  in  the  towns ;  to  en- 
couri^e  private  societies  and  public  institutions,  by  rewards  and 
immunities  for  the  promotion  of  agriculture,  arts,  sciences,  com- 
merce, trades,  manufactures,  and  natural  history  of  the  country ; 
to  countenance  and  inculcate  the  principles  of  humanity  and  gene- 
ral benevolence,  public  and  private  charity,  industry  and  frugality, 
honesty  and  punctuality  in  their  dealings ;  sincerity,  good-humour, 
and  aU  social  affections  and  generous  sentiments  among  the  people." 

Dr.  More  says,  ^  According  to  the  laws  of  this  copimQn>vealth, 
every  town  having  50  householders  or  upwards,  is  to  be  provided 
with  one  or  more  schoolmasters,  to  teach  children  and  youth  to 
read  and  write,  and  instruct  them  in  the  English  language,  arith- 
roedc,  orthogri^hy,  and  decent  behaviour ;  and  where  any  town 
has  '200  families,  there  is  also  to  be  a  grammar-school  set  up  there- 
in, and  some  discreet  person,  well  instructed  in  the  Latin,  Greek, 
and  English  languages,  procured  to  keep  the  same,  and  be  suitably 
paid  by  the  inhabitants.  The  penalty  for  neglect  of  schools,  in 
towns  of  50  fiunilies,  is  j610.  ;  those  of  100  families,  j£20. ;  and  of 
1«0,  jffSO. 

The  state  government  is  vested  in  a  senate  and  house  of  represent^ 
adveci)  styled  the  General  Court ;  a  gov^nor^  lieutenant-governor, 
and  council.  The  senators  are  40  in  number,  and  are  elected  an- 
finally  in  districts ;  and  the  voters  must  be  possessed  of  a  freehold 
cstatA  of  iCd.  or  any  estate  (^  the  value  <^iC60.  The  representatives 
are  elected  annually,  in  townships :  every  corporate  town  contain- 


4 


MASSACHUtnrS. 


95 


out  of  tlie  tail 
:ed  above  ano. 
sings  they  en> 
humane,  ond 
ait  in  the  cha- 

•68  that  "  wis- 
illy  among  the 
ation  of  their 
ng  the  oppor- 
parts  of  the 
le,  it  shall  be 
ure  periods  of 
re  and  the  sci* 
ersity  at  Cam* 
towns ;  to  en- 
y  rewards  and 
icienccs,  com- 
r  the  country ; 
lity  and  gene* 
land  frugality, 
good-humour, 
ig  the  people." 
3pimQn>vealth, 
o  be  provided 
and  youth  to 
guage,  arith- 
ere  any  town 
set  up  there- 
tin,  Greek, 
d  be  suitably 
f  schools,  in 
'20.;  and  of 

!  of  represent'" 
it-govemor, 

Ire  elected  an- 

k  a  freehold 
>reBentative$ 

Vwa  contain- 


ing 150  rateable  polls  elect  I,  those  containing  S75  elect  2,  those 
containing  €00  elect  S,  and  so  on,  making,  225  the  number  for  e- 
ver}'  additional  representative.  The  electors  must  be  possessed  of  the 
tame  property  as  for  senators.  The  governor  is  styled  his  excellency^ 
and  must  be  possessed  of  a  freehold  of  4^1000.  He  is  elected  annu- 
ally by  those  qualified  to  vote  for  senators  and  representatives. 
The  lieutenant-governor  is  styled  his  honour^  and  must  have  the 
same  qualifications,  and  be  elected  in  the  same  manner  as  the  go- 
vernor. The  coiuicil  consists  of  nine  persons,  chosen  from  the  se^ 
nators  by  joint  ballot  of  the  senators  and  representatives. 

The  District  of  Maine  is  politically  connected  with  Massa- 
chusetts, and  is  of  great  extent,  being  about  250  miles  long  by  192 
broad,  and  contains  an  area  of  34,000  square  miles,  or  21,760,000 
acres. 

The  first  settlement  took  place  about  the  year  1630;  and  the  in- 
habitants, who  have  been  greatly  augmented  by  emigration  from  tlte 
adjoining  states,  amounted,  by  the  last  census,  to  151,719,  being 
less  than  4  to  the  square  mile ;  but  they  are  rapidly  increasing. 

There  are  a  number  of  considerable  towns  on  the  coast,  of  which  the 
chief  is  Portland,  which  contains  nearly  4000  inhabitants,  and  hasa 
great  and  increasing  ti'ade.  York  is  the  second  in  importance,  and  is  a 
place  of  considerable  business.  Hallffooell,  Wiscasset^  and  Machias 
are  considerable  places,  to  say  nothing  of  Passamaquoddyt  a  sort  of 
Land!s  End  in  Comvoally  or  Johnny  Groat's  House,  at  the  very  extre- 
mity of  the  Union,  and  which  sends  out  a  considerable  number  of 
small  vessels. 

The  land  on  the  sea-coast  is  stony  and  barren ;  h'^t  there  tcrt 
tracts  of  good  land  in  the  interior  of  the  country,  which  produce 
grain  and  fruits,  and  the  country  is  remarkably  well  calculated  for 
grazing. 

The  principal  trade  consists  in  lumber  and  fish,  of  which  the  in- 
habitants carry  great  quantities  to  the  sea-ports  of  America,  and  to 
the  West  Indies.  The  manufactures  are  principally  of  the  domes- 
tic kind. 
The  state  of  society  is  nearly  the  same  as  in  Massachusetts. 
The  face  of  the  country  is  hilly,  but  not  mountainous ;  and  the 
coast  is  completely  indented  with  bays  and  rivers.  The  winters  ore 
long  and  severe,  with  clear  settled  weather :  the  summers  are  short, 
but  very  agreeable :  of  spring  there  is  hardly  any ;  btit  the  autumns 
are  ^'enerally  clear  and  hfalthy. 


i    .1  :  Lia; 


mm 


tRAVBL«   IN 


CHAPTER   XVII. 


Hartfordy — Newhavni, — Stamford. 

September  5.  We  resumed  our  journey  tliis  morninj,'  ai 
8  o'clock,  und  travelled  towards  Hortibrd,  kecpiug  near  tin- 
banks  of  the  river.  The  morning  was  serene  and  clear,  but  a 
little  cold.  We  could  see  nothing  of  the  country  at  that  early 
hour ;  but  we  were  informed  that  it  was  handsome,  and  well  im- 
proved. The  road  is  level  and  good.  Ten  miles  from  Suffieid, 
we  passed  through  WindsoVi  a  pleasant  town,  situated  on  Windsor 
Ferry  River,  which  we  passed  by  a  wooden  bridge.  We  now  had 
day-light,  and  an  agreeable  journey  for  six  miles  further,  to  Murt- 
ford,  which  we  reached  at  7  o'clock,  to  breakfast. 

Hartford  is  a  handsome  city,  the  capital  of  Connecticut,  and 
is,  alternately  with  Ncwhaven,  the  seat  of  legislation  for  the  state. 
It  is  situated  on  Connecticut  River,  at  the  head  of  sloop  naviga- 
tion, 50  miles  above  Lung  Island  Sound.  It  is  regularly  laid  out, 
the  streets  crossing  one  another  at  right  angles ;  but  they  are  not 
paved,  and,  when  I  saw  them,  they  were  very  muddy.  The  city 
consists  of  about  400  houses,  and  contains  between  3  and  4000 
inhabitants.*  The  public  buildings  are  the  State-House,  an  cli>- 
gant  edifice,  two  congregational  churches,  and  one  episcopal 
church.  The  citizens  carry  on  an  active  commerce,  in  all  tin; 
products  of  the  state,  to  the  southern  states  and  the  West  Indies; 
and  they  have  a  large  share  of  countiy  trade.  Considerable  ma- 
nufactures are  carried  on  with  spirit,  ond  are  increasing.  The  mar- 
kets are  well  supplied  with  wholesome  provisions,  which  are  sold 
at  reasonable  rates. 

On  leaving  the  city,  we  got  an  addition  to  our  company,  ofsonio 
students  going  to  Newhavcn,  and  some  young  ladies  j  and  we  had 
a  great  deal  of  entertainment  from  the  remarks  of  our  facetious 
Englishman,  who  began  by  questioning  the  students,  why  the 
citizens  of  Hartford  had  not  paved  the  streets  ?  They  gave  sonic 
account  of  it,  which  I  do  not  recollect ;  but  it  was  not  satisfactory ; 
and  one  of  our  company  attempted  to  solve  the  difficulty,  by  al- 
leging that  it  was  probably  with     a  view  of  encouraging   the 

•  By   tlie  census  of  1810  they   were  T>,^J55. 


Ah] 


CONNRCTin.'T.  yf 

ffiowtli  of  the  young  women.  1  le  hail  rom:irkt(l,  that  the  young 
Indies  of  I  Urtfonl  were  unconinionly  tall ;  and  a«  sap  and  soil  were 
viTV  necessary  to  the  growth  of  vegetable  substances,  and  the  citi- 
zens of  Hartford  were  a  philosophicid  people,  and  "  full  of  no- 
tioiiN,"  it  was  likely  they  had  tried  the  experiment  with  the  oni- 
nml  creation,  and  had  succeeded.  The  students  were  highly  di- 
verted, and  laughed  heartily  at  what  they  called  his  odd  "  notion.'* 
The  ladies  in  the  stage  were  too  i/onrtg  to  attract  the  attention  of 
our  friend  ;  but  many  a  remark  did  he  m;  Ice  on  thouc  we  passed, 
who,  "  to  conceal  nothing,"  as  Goldsmith  says,  "  were  certainly 
very  handsome."  The  weather  was  delightful,  and  the  view  of 
the  country  was  highly  gratifying.  The  fields  were  well  cultivatetl, 
al>oun(ling  with  fruits  of  all  sorts;  and  we  purchased  from  a  coun* 
tryniaii,  enpassanty  a  whole  basket  full  of  peaches  tor  a  mere  trifl«, 
which  kept  us  well  supplied  in  fruit  the  whole  way  to  Newhaven. 

We  took,  as  we  were  informed,  a  new  road ;  and  passing  se- 
veral villages  of  infeiior  note,  we  reached  Wallingford,  26  milcf 
from  Hartford,  about  12  o'clock.  Here  we  had  a  delightful  view, 
and  were  informed  that  this  district  was  celebrated  for  raising 
onions,  and  that  a  company  of  young  girls  had  cultivated  that 
root  so  successfully,  in  a  neighbouring  town,  that  they  had  built  a 
church  with  the  proceeds.  This  account  of  the  industry  of  the 
young  women  was  highly  gratifying,  and  we  were  really  delighted 
with  their  blooming  countenances,  and  the  cleanly,  substantial 
dress  which  they  wore.  It  was  plain  and  simple,  but  so  much  the 
better ; 

For  lovdinoss 
Ncedit  not  tlie  foreign  aid  of  ornament, 
But  is,  when  unadom'd,  adom'd  the  most 

In  our  way  towards  Newhaven,  we  passed  through  a  very  elegant 
country,  where  we  had  a  number  of  fine  views ;  and  we  reached 
the  great,  enlightened  city  of  Newhaven,  at  2  o'clock.  Her* 
we  stopped  for  dinner,  and  we  had  some  little  time  to  take  a  view 
of  the  town. 

Newhaven  is  a  handsome  city.  The  surrounding  scenery  is  very 
fine,  and  the  situation  pleasant,  and  favourable  for  commerce. 
It  is  built  on  a  considerable  bay,  on  Long  Island  Sound,  and 
covers  part  of  a  pretty  extensive  plain,  having  a  river  on  each  side 
of  it.  The  streets  cross  one  another  at  right  angles,  and  there  is  a 
kfjNarc  in  the  middle,  round  which  are  the  public  buildings,  which 

13 


■  o 


I   ; 


r 


fB  coNNRcrictir. 

Iiiivc  it  vci  V  linnilM)nio  Mppeorance.  Tiiey  arc  the  college)!,  State* 
Iluiise,  tlircc  cuiigregatioiml,  ami  one  episcopal  church.  I  rcgrct- 
totl  tliut  my  time  did  not  permit  me  to  see  the  College,  which  in 
esteemed  ono  of  the  best  seminarieA  in  the  Unitetl  i^tntet,  atid,  liy 
the  citizens  of  Ncwhaven,  is  considered  the  very  best.  The  city 
contuins  nearly  GOOO  inhabitants,  who  carry  on  a  very  active  trade 
with  New  York  and  the  West  Indies;  and  they  have  established 
considerable  manufactures,  which  are  said  to  be  in  a  thriving  Htatc. 

We  took  our  departure  from  Newhaven  aliout  4  o'clock,  and 
travelling  tliirteen  miles  through  a  pretty  good  tract  of  country, 
along  the  Sound,  we  reached  Mit/ordf  a  considerable  town,  hav- 
ing boverul  churches  and  from  thence,  through  a  country  nearly 
biniihir,  a  few  miles,  we  passed  the  H(msatonic  Iliver,  by  a  ferry. 
This  river  rises  about  the  border:;  of  Massachusetts,  and  running 
a  south-east  course,  the  whole  breadth  of  the  state  of  Connecticut, 
falls  into  tlie  Sound  a  little  below  where  we  crost^ed  it.  It  is  navi- 
gable to  Derby,  twelve  miles  up,  and  above  that  is  very  important 
for  mills  and  machinery ;  the  country  on  its  banks  is  said  to  be 
very  romantic  Four  miles  from  this  river  we  passed  Stratford^  a 
pleasant  town,  and  of  considerable  extent;  and  now  day-light 
failed  us,  and  terminated  my  observations. 

We  continued  our  course  through  Fairfield  and  Norvoalk,  said 
to  be  considerable  and  pleasant  towns ;  and  at  12  o'clock  reached 
Siamjurd,  44  miles  from  Newhaven,  where  we  stopped  for  the  night. 
In  our  way,  we  passed  a  number  of  rivers  oi  inferior  note,  and 
part  of  the  country  ap|)eared  to  be  rough,  and  the  road  very  bad ; 
but  we  were  intbrmed  that  a  new  line  of  turnpike  road  wtis  in  for- 
wardness, and  would  soon  be  finished. 


CHAPTER  XVni. 

,  Conncctieut, 

Is  situated  between  ^1°  and42»  north  latitude,  and  3°  20'  and  5^ 
cast  longitude.  Its  greatest  length  is  83  miles,  and  its  greatest 
breadth  72.     Its  area  is  4400  square  miles,  or  2,816,000  acres. 

The  face  of  the  country  is  agreeobly  uneven.  To  the  south  th« 
coast  extends  along  the  Sound  the  whole  length  of  the  state,  and 
has  many  fine  inlets,  which  are  highly  advantageous  to  commerce. 


* 


COHNECTICUT.  99 

Towards  the  north-west  the  country  •welU  out  into  hi^h,  l)roki'ii, 
hilly  lands,  but  there  arc  no  niountuiiik.  Thin  hilly  country  itt  said 
to  he  very  romantic.  The  state  is  rcnmrknhly  well  watori'd, 
abounding  in  HinaU  streams.  The  principal  rivers  are  Cunnecticut 
and  Housatonic,  already  mentioned,  and  the  Thames.  Thiit  Inst 
river  is  formed  at  Norwich  of  two  branches,  called  Shetucket  and 
Little  rivers;  and  thence  runs  u  due  south  course,  H  niilen,  to 
the  sound.  It  liaN  a  fine  harbour  at  New  I^ndon,  and  is  navigablo 
for  small  TesscUto  Norwich. 

Iron  ore  is  found  in  the  state  in  great  abundance,  and  lead^ 
copper,  and  zinc  have  also  been  discovered,  though  in  no  great 
(|uantilies.  Pit-coal  has  been  found,  but,  I  believe,  not  in  suiH- 
cient  quantity  to  induce  the  inhabitants  to  dig  for  it.  There  are  a 
number  of  mineral  springs  in  the  state;  the  most  important  is  in 
Lichfield  county,  which  is  highly  impregnated  with  carbonic  acid 
gas,  and  sulphurated  hydrogen  gas;  and  is  said  to  be  very  UHefui 
in  curing  various  diseases,  particularly  dyspepsia,  rheuniatism,  and 
those  of  the  cutaneous  kind. 

The  soil  is  various,  some  parts  being  poor  and  sandy,  and  some 
very  fertile;  generally  speaking,  there  is  a  great  deal  of  good  land, 
and  the  state  is  remarkably  well  calculated  for  grazing. 

The  climate  is  subject  to  great  and  sudden  changes,  passing  to 
the  extremes  of  heat  and  cold ;  but  it  is  very  healthy,  and  thu 
rtate  abounds  with  remarkable  instances  of  longevityt 

The  first  settlement  was  made  in  the  year  1633,  by  some  Dutch 
and  English  traders  with  the  Indians,  In  1G62,  a  charter  was 
granted  by  (Jharles  II.  which  still  serves  as  the  basis  of  thu 
state  government;  and  which,  from  the  ignorance  of  the  British 
government,  at  that  time,  of  the  geography  of  the  country,  has 
involved  some  singular  disputes  about  land  titlc>s.  Connecticut 
bore  an  active  share  in  the  war  for  independence ;  and  now  forms  a 
very  important  state  in  the  union,  sending  two  senators  and  seven 
representatives  to  congress. 

The  state  is  divided  into  eight  counties  and  107  townships. 
The  population,  in  1800,  was  251,002,  including  951  slaves,  be- 
ing about  57  to  a  square  mile. 

The  country  is  highly  improved,  and  abounds  with  handsome 
towns,  villages,  ai^d  ^arm-houses,  There  are  five  incorporated 
cities,  viz,  Hartford,  Jfexiohavettf  New  London,  Not-wich  and  Mid- 
(lletamn.    The  two  first  have  been  noticed.    New  London  in  band" 


i 


100 


CONNECTICUT. 


'UV 


A^-'i-- 


sonicly  situated  on  tlic  Tliunics,  and  has  on  excellent  harbour,  and 
extensive  trade.  It  contains  upwards  of  3000  inhabitants,  and  liat 
a  bank,  and  three  houses  for  public  worship.  Norwich  is  on 
the  same  river,  at  the  head  of  navigation,  and  has  numerous  nia- 
nutitctures  and  an  extensive  trade.  It  contains  nearly  3000  in- 
habitants,  and  has  a  court-house,  a  bank,  an  insurance  company, 
an  academy,  and  three  places  for  public  worshi}).  Middletovcn^ 
situated  on  Coiniecticut  river,  15  miles  below  Hartford,  contains 
about  2000  inhabitants,  and  carries  on  a  considerable  trade.  There 
is  a  bank ,  an  insurance  company,  a  court-house  and  two  places  for 
public  worship  in  the  city.  Licfifieldi'i  a  fine  town,  containing  up- 
wards of  4000  people.  It  is  beautifully  situated  in  an  elevated 
part  of  the  state,  and  has  a  court-house,  meeting-house,  and  aca- 
demy. IVethersfield  is  the  oldest  town  in  the  state,  and  is  remark- 
able tor  the  culture  of  onions.  1"he  other  villages  are  numerous, 
the  whole  state  being  studded  with  them,  containing  from  500  to 
1500  or  2000  inhabitants;  among  others  may  be  mentioned  Dan- 
hurij,  Windham^  Haddam^  and  Tolland.  The  houses  are  generally 
built  of  wood,  on  a  handsome  phqit  and  are  painted  white ;  which 
gives  the  country  an  air  of  great  cleanliness  and  neatness.  This 
enterprising  little  state  first  set  the  example  of  making  turnpike 
roads  in  New  England^  and  these  and  other  good  roads  are  so 
abundant,  that  travelling  is  facilitated  in  all  directions.  There  are 
a  number  of  bridges  in  the  state,  some  of  them  constructed  at 
great  cxpence,  which  are  of  great  utility. 

The  agriculture  of  the  state  is  in  a  condition  which  speaks  vo- 
lumes in  praise  of  equal  laws.  There  is  no  feudal  system,  and 
no  law  of  primogeniture;  hence  there  are  no  overgrown  estates  on 
the  one  hand,  and  few  of  those  employed  in  agriculture  are  de- 
pressed by  poverty  on  the  other.  The  farms  are  generally  from 
no  to  5000  acres,  cultivated  by  a  hardy  industrious  race,  whose 
labour  is  rewarded  by  the  blessings  of  heaven  in  "  peace,  and 
health,  and  sweet  content."  But  it  L  said,  that  all  the  sons  of 
Connecticut  are  not  thus  wise.  There  is  a  superabundance  of  the 
learned  professions,  particulai'ly  in  the  law  department,  who  keep 
the  state  embroiled  in  litigation.  "  God  made  man  upright,  but 
they  have  sought  out  many  inventions." — The  produce  of  the  state 
is  wheat,  rye,  Indian  corn,  oat«,  barley,  buck-wheat,  flax,  a  large 
quantity,  and  some  hemp,  with  a  great  variety  of  vegetables,  and 
i'l  uit.     The  soil  is  well  adapted  to  grazing,  and  vast  quantities  of 


CONNECTICUT.  101 

cheese  and  butter  are  made  :  much  pork  is  cured:    cyder  is  al- 
Iso  made  in  great  plenty  and  perfection. 

The  farmers  of  Connecticut,  and  their  families,  arc  gienerally 
dressed  in  cloth  of  their  own  manufacture,  which  is  substantial 
and  good ;  and  there  are  considerable  and  very  important  manu- 
factures, on  a  larger  bcale,  throughout  the  state,  viz.  woollens» 
linens,  cottons,  leather  of  every  description,  hats,  stockings,  pa- 
per, wire,  bells,  soap,  candles,  oil,  clocks  and  watches,  earthen 
and  stone  ware,  chaises,  harness,  &c, 

The  state  has  a  very  considerable  coasting  and  foreign  trade. 
The  exports,  in  1805,  amounted  to  1, 443,729  dollars.  They  are 
principally  to  the  West  India  islands,  consisting  of  live  stock, 
timber,  grain,  fruit,  fish,  and  provisions.  The  imports  consist  of 
manufactured  piece  goods  of  the  finer  kinds,  wines,  and  groceries. 

The  population  of  Connecticut  consists  of  farmers,  mechanics, 
manufacturers,  ministers  of  religion,  instructors  of  youth,  doctors 
of  medicine,  and  lawyers.     There  are  no  idle  people  to  be  seen, 
although  it  is  said  that  too  many  are  engaged  in  the  learned  pro- 
fessions ;  and  Connecticut  sends  out  a  full  proportion  of  luminar- 
ies annually,  to  enlighten  other  states.     Education  is  upon  an  ex- 
cellent footing,  and  the  school  fund  is  more  ample  than  that  of 
any  other  state.     The  college  at  Newhaven,  which  is  named   Yale 
College,  has  been  already  noticed,  and  academies  have  been  esta- 
blished at   Greenfield,  Plainfield,    Canterbury,    Norwich,  Wind- 
ham, and  Pomfrct.     The  law  directS  that  a  grammar  school  shall 
be  kept  in  every  county  town  throughout  the  state ;  but  the  great, 
popular,  and  permanent  advantage  on  this  branch,  arises  from  the 
establishment  of  shools  in  every  township,  being  an  arrangement 
similar  to  the  parish  schools  of  Scotland,    and  which  produced 
similar  effects — a  general  diffusion  of  knowledge,  "  steady  habits," 
and  sobriety  of  manners.     In  religion,  the  form  of  church  go- 
vernment is  generally  congregationi^l  or  presbyterian,  but  everjr 
other  form  may  be  freely  exercised.     The  form  of  government  ia 
derived  from  the  ancient  charter ;  by  which  the  legislative  authorl*' 
ty  is  vested  in  a  governor,  deputy  governor,  twelve  assistants  or 
counsellors,   and  the    repre8entativ«8  of   the  people,    styled  the 
General  Assembly.      They    are   divided    into  two  branches,   of 
which  the  governor,  deputy  governor,  ai^4  assistants  form  one^ 
and  the  representatives  the  other :  and  no  \a,;^,  can  pass  without  the 
concurrence  of  both.    The  governor  an4  assistants  are  chosen  an- 


109  tRAVELS    IN 

nually)  and  the  representatives,  who  must  not  exceed  two  for  each 
town,  are  cho»en  twice  each  year.  The  sufTrage  is  universal, 
every  freeman  who  is  of  age  having  a  vote,  without  regard  to 
property. 


I     f 


s  s 


■'iir 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Horseneck, — Harlem, — New  York. 

SEPTEMBER  6.  This  morning,  at  3  o'clock,we  took  cur  seats  in 
the  stage.  I  was  diverted  by  a  dialogue  between  the  two  drivers,  in 
which  the  word  guess  oceurcd  so  frequently,  that  I  could  hardly  hear 
any  thing  else.  "Ig«^5s  this  string's  not  long  enough."  "Oycn,lgum 
it  is."  "  C)  yes,  Iguess  I'll  make  it  do."  "  There, — Iguess  you've  fix- 
ed it."  "  Yes,  I  guess  j/ou  guess  right."  Leaving  Stanford  we  passed 
ceveral  creeks.  The  morning  was  raw  and  foggy.  At  the  dawn  of 
day  we  reached  a  considerable  rising  ground,  called  Horsc7ied, 
and  we  alighted,  and  walked  up  the  hill,  by  a  winding  road.  Hen 
we  were  told  a  singular  anecdote  of  Major  Putnam.  A  part  of  the 
British  army  were  encamped  not  far  from  this  hill,  and  the  major 
went  to  the  top  of  it,  in  a  fog,  to  reconnoitre ;  just  as  he  reached  th; 
top,  the  fog  cleared  away,  and  he  found  himself  close  by  a  coqis  of 
British  cavalry,  who  immediately  pursued  him.  He  clapped  spun 
to  his  horse,  and ;  not  having  time  to  keep  the  road,  galloped  right 
down  the  hill,  and,  fitrange  to  tell !  reached  the  plain  unhurt ;  and 
thus  eluded  his  pursuers.  A  few  miles  from  thence,  we  passed  Bj- 
ram  river,  and  entered  the  state  of  New  York. 

The  first  township  we  came  to  in  this  state  was  Rye,  containing 
about  1000  inhabitants.  The  soil  appeared  pretty  good,  but  the 
face  of  the  country  is  rough  and  stony.  We  continued  our  course 
through  East  and  West  Chester,  both  considerable  townships ;  near 
the  last  is  a  manufacture  of  earthenware,  said  to  be  in  a  thriving 
state.  The  soil  in  this  district  seems  to  be  poor  and  sandy ;  but  we 
were  informed  it  was  well  calculated  for  sheep  and  cattle,  the  flocks 
of  which  were  encreasing. 

Nine  miles  from  New  York,  we  passed  into  York  Island,  by  a 
wooden  bridge,  at  Harlem ;  and,  continuing  our  course  through 
the  middle  of  the  island,  which  abounds  with  numerous  villas  and 
pleasure-grounds,  generally  the  property  of  the  merchants  of  New 
York,  we  reached  the  city  at  ten  o'clock.  I  was  highly  gratified 
\>y  my  tour  to  the  New  England  states. 


NEW   YORK, 


103 


I  continued  in  New  York,  transacting  various  mercantile  busi- 
iness,  until  the  25th  ot  September;  during  which  lime  I  again  called 
on  Thomas  Paine,  in  company  with  his  friend,  formerly  mentioned. 
Paine  was  still  at  the  house  of  Mrs.  Palmer,  but  his  leg  had  got 
luiich  better,  and  he  was  in  good  spirits.  News  had  arrived  that 
inorning  that  a  peace  had  been  concluded  between  France  and  Eng- 
land ;  but  Paine  said  he  did  not  believe  it,  and  again  affirmed,  that  . 
while  the  present  form  of  government  lasted  in  England,  there 
would  be  no  peace:  the  government  was  committed  in  a  war  sy»- 
tein,  and  would  prosecute  it  as  long  as  they  could  command  the 
means,  tie  then  turned  up  a  newspaper,  which  had  recently  been 
established  at  New  York,  and,  after  reading  several  paragraphs, 
he  observed  that  he  could  not  understand  what  the  editor  was  driv- 
ing at.  He  pretended  to  be  a  great  friend  of  Britain,  and  yet  he 
was  constantly  writing  against  peace,  and  the  best  interests  of  the 
I  country ;  and  in  place  of  being  guided  by  the  plain  dictates  of  com- 
mon sense,  he  aimed  at  flowery  embellished  language,  and  glided 
away  into  the  airy  regions  of  speculative  nonsense,  more  like  a 
madman  than  the  editor  of  a  newspaper.  After  a  good  deal  of  ge- 
I  neral  conversation,  we  took  our  leave. 

A  lew  days  after,  his  friend  handed  me  a  piece  in  MS.,  intended 

for  the  newspapers,    and  requested  me  to  copy  it,  and  keep  the  ori- 

I  ginal ;  and  as  Paine  has  made  a  great  noise  in  the  world,  I  shall 

I  here  insert  it)  as  a  relic  of  an  extraordinary  political  character,  and 

I  as  a  very  good  specimen  of  the  acuteness  of  his  mind,  and  his  turn 

for  wit,  at  the  advanced  age  of  70. 

«  For  tJte  Citizen, 

"  It  must  be  an  inconsolable  affliction  to  poor  Mr. 's  friendt;, 

I  if  he  has  any,  to  hear  that  his  insanity  increases  beyond  all  hopes 
I  of  recovery.     His  case  is  truly  pitiable :  he  works  hard  at  the  trade 
j  of  mischief-making ;  but  he  is  not  a  good  hand  at  it,  for  the  case  is 
that  the  more  he  labours  the  more  he  is  laughed  at,  and  his  malady 
increases  with  every  laugh.  ,,j 

"  In  his  paper  of  Thursday,  September  18th,  the  spirit  of  pro- 
j  phecy  seizes  him,  and  he  leaps  from  the  earth,  gets  astride  of  ft 
I  cloud,  and  predicts  universal  darkness  to  the  inhabitants  of  thift 
lower  world. 

"  Speaking  of  the  rumours  of  peace  between  France  and  Eng- 
land, he  says,  *  we  will  not  believe  it  till  we  see  it  gazetted  (meaning 


I 


m 


■  f.f  »■ 


104  :   NEW  YORK. 

in  the  London  Gazette,)  and  then,*  says  he,  *  we  will  aver  that  the 
sun  which  dawns  upon  that  event  will  be  the  darkest  that  ever  rose 
since  the  transgression  of  our  first  parents  brought  sin  into  the  world.' 
This  is  the  first  time  we  ever  heard  of  the  sun  shining  darkness. 
But  darkness  or  light,  sense  or  nonsense,  sunshine  or  moonshine, 
are  all  alike  to  a  lunatic. — He  then  goes  on.  *  In  a  continuance,' 
says  he,  *  of  war  only,  can  Britain  look  for  salvation.  That  star  once 
extinguished,  all  will  be  darkness  and  eternal  night  over  the  face  of 

ihe  creation.' — The  devil  it  will  I     And  pray  Mr. ,  will  the 

mden  shine  darkness  too?  and  will  all  the  stars  twinkle  darkness? 
If  that  should  be  the  case,  you  had  better  sell  your  press,  and  set 
vap  tallow-chandler :  there  will  be  more  demand  for  candles  than 
for  newspapers  when  those  dark  days  come. 

**  But,  as  you  are  a  man  that  writes  fur  a  livelih(K)d,  and  I  sup. 
pose  you  find  it  hard  work  to  rub  on,  I  would  advise  you,  as  a 
friend,  not  to  lay  out  all  your  cash  upon  candle-making ;  for  my 
opinion  is,  that  whether  England  make  peace  or  not,  or  whether 
she  is  conquered  or  not  conquered,  the  sun  will  rise  as  glorious 
and  shine  as  bright  on  that  day  as  if  no  such  trifling  things  had 
happened."  •'*      i  r  "wl  ..^    ^r ,  t -sr 

It  appeared  in  the  sequel  that  Paine  was  correct  in  his  opinion, 
and  the  editor  was  gratified  in  his  wish — there  was  no  peace. 


I'4        »       .KJllJl 


CHAPTER  XX. 

.        Nam  York,     ' 


L  HIS  interestmg  state  is  situated  between  40*  33'  and  45*  north 
la^ude^  and  3°  43'  east,  and  2°43'  west  longitude;  its  extreme 
length,  firom  east  to  west,  being  340,  and  extreme  breadth,  from 
north  to  south,  817  miles;  but  it  is  very  irregular.  The  square 
contents  amount  to  about  52,125  square  miles,  or  33,360,000  acres; 
being  18,000  square  miles  larger  than  Scotland. 
'  There  is  a  vast  variety  in  the  face  of  the  country.  Long  Island 
and  Staten  Island  are  situated  at  its  southern  extremity,  and  are  in- 
teresting. The  state  is  bounded  by  Connecticut  on  the  east,  New 
Jersey  on  the  west,  extending  in  breadth  to  the  highlands,  witli  an 
agreeably  uneven  surface.  From  the  highlands,  about  50  miles  a- 
bove  New  York,  the  state  is  hilly,  in  many  places  mountainous ;  and 


ver  that  the 
tat  ever  rose 
o  the  world.' 
fg  darkncsii. 
moonshine, 
ontinuance,' 
hat  star  once 
;r  the  face  of 
— f  will  the 
^darkness? 
ress,  and  let 
candles  than 

and  Isup< 

ise  you,  as  a 

ing ;  for  my 

or  whether 

as  glorious 

r  things  had 


his  opinion, 
peace. 


d  45'  north 
its  extreme 
eadth,  from 
The  square 
),000  acres; 


^ong  Island 
and  are  in- 
east,  New 
kds,  witli  an 
150  miles  a- 
linous ;  and 


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^  ...  |M  r*«,'*K'  <»jw»  •<«♦'•■•  -♦?»■!  on  Uu* 

<«t«    hut  J*.     •    ' 
"  <•         ,   ii.ii  ijjf  luliitio  in  t5>w)|p  ••       > 

•  ^"'^c/rr >•>/«•' 'u  />?>r' '"rrJ.j**,  ♦iJ*^■ri'l, 

•  .        '     >     wtr 'hf  irWv.i;, 'lit  Ji   ' 

,  %  .  'H»r!'«»t>.^hc.tn)•iu•^. 
•iff  H)r*M.'f  ViMi^J*  i.ji,mr  ,  '?Vf.*  (twj>niirti  .. . 

u  J)mi»>;ijj(  L  »oii|t;is -♦•«-♦'{     vt»~»..  ^H«#Ai.- 
ijjf?*  S'niilos  lib  •      S"i  xi^y  ;  0j|  t  * 

it  tti  n!ii  igablc  hj' b'- of   iof>«'i.'iii    tM^^i-^iV..  "^ 

~'>.  bfrt  tyutafj  Hiub^it^^  mti  ^m  hikv  .     *  S^' 

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.-.     ■i«iilcatii»«  ».Kln-^««».v  Lake  I  '>  ■rM*  »'i' 

*   vvifl'.   inill-^x^t' i,  i>n«l  h**'  nwji  iViiifti     /. 
'♦•  tJic  >*t.>i  is  the  i^i/>t^- .  <  ,»;>«' ij>»>«it art i,'    ,    ' 


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wtr  YORK.  105 

the  liills  eontinue  to  the  extremity  of  the  state  northward,  and  to 
,  lltica  westward :  from  thence  to  its  western  extretnity,  nearly  900 
iiiles,  therein  amovt  elegant  country,  rich  and  ^ell  watered,  having 
jursofthe  Allegany  mountains  on  the  one  side,  and  on  the  other 
[the  lakes  Ontario  and  Erie,  two  of  the  finest  sheets  of  water  in  the 
[world.    The  lakes  arc  so  numerous  that  the  bare  mention  of  the 
[names  of  the  most  important  must  suffice  in  this  place.     Besides  the 
I  large  lakes,  there  are  Ijake  Chatnplainy  Lake  George,  Oneida,  Onon- 
^dago,  Skeneateless,  Oujasca,  Cayuga,  Seneea,  Canandagua,  and  C/ia- 
ttattgkque.    The  principal  nvcH  are  the  Hudson,  the  Moh&wk,  the' 
Oneida,  and  the  Genesee,    The  Hudson  rises  in  the  mountains,  above 
the  4ith  degree  of  nc<th  latitude^  pursues  a  south  course  about  250 
{miles,  and  tbrms  a  junction  with  the  East  Kivor  at  New  York.  This 
river  is  navigable  for  sea  vessels  through  the  mountains  to  Albany 
land  Troy ;  and  for  smaller  vessels  a  considerable  way  above  Troy : 
I  the  tide  flows  165  miles  up  this  river.    The  Mohau}k  rises  near  O 
neida  Lake,  and  running  a  south-east  course  upwards  of  100  miles,* 
I  falls  into  the  Hudson  8  miles  above  Albany :  tlie  tiavigation  of  thii 
river  is  obstructed  by  tlie  Cohoes  falls,  near  its  outlet,  and  the  httle 
falls  about  70  miles  above  that ;  but  goods  and  produce  are  carried' 
by  land  between  Albany  and  Skenectady,  15  miles ;  and  there  being 
a  canal  round  the  little  falls,  the  navigation  is  complete  to  the  port- 
age near  its  source,  where  it  communicates  by  another  canal  with 
Wood  Creek,  and  from  thence  with  Lake  Ontario*    Oneida  River 
has  its  source  in  Oneida  Lake,  from  whence  it  runs  about  40  miles 
to  Lake  Ontario.      It  is  navigable  by  boats  to  the  fulls,  where  there 
is  A  portage,  from  whence  it  is  again  navigable  to  the  lake,  ahd 
thence  through  Wood  Creek  and  the  portage,  to  the  Mohawk  Ri- 
ver.   This  river  is  of  great  importance,  as  it  fbnn»  part  of  the  chain 
of  communication  between  the  Hudson  and  the  lakes ;  and,  through 
the  medium  of  Seneca  River,  it  may,  in  process  of  time,  form  also 
an  imiK)rtant  communication  between  Lake  Ontario  and  the  small- 
er, but  very  important  lakes,  in  the  interior  of  the  country.   Genesee' 
River  rises  in  the  state  of  Pennsylvania,  and  running  a  northern 
course  through  the  Genesee  country  nearly  100  miles,  falU  into 
Lake  Ontario.    The  navigation  of  this  river  is  obstructed  by  falls ; 
but  it  abounds  with  mill-seats,  and  has  rich  fertile  banks.     The 
great  River  Si.  Lawrence  bounds  the  state  on  the  north,  to  the  east 
of  Lake  Ontario,  and  receives  several  important  streams  in  that  dis- 
trict :  and  on  the  west  is  the  Niagara  River,  the  cotiununication 

14 


I 

•4 


106 


NEW    YOftK. 


imr 


i]  »" 


between  Luke  Erie  and  Lake  Ontario,  on  which  are  the  Falls  of 
Niagara,  one  of  the  greatest  wonders  in  the  world.  This  river  u 
navigable  to  within  9  miles  of  the  falls ;  and  again,  from  2  miles  u- 
bovc  the  falls,  to  Lake  Erie.  The  portage  round  the  falls  is  10  miles ; 
and,  were  a  canal  cut,  it  would  complete  the  navigation  between 
the  lakes,  and  open  an  inland  navigation  of  greater'  extent  thun  is. 
to  be  found  in  the  world.  The  head  waters  of  the  Allegany,  Sus- 
quehanna, and  Delaware  Rivers,  are  in  the  southern  part  of  this  state. 
The  state  abounds  with  iron  ore  and  lead ;  copper  and  zinc  have 
been  found  in  various  places.  Silver  has  been  found,  but  in  no 
great  quantity.  Marble  abounds,  and  is  of  an  excellent  qualitjr. 
Freestone  and  slate  are  in  plenty.  Plaster  of  Paris  is  found  in  great 
variety,  and  is  used  vith  good  effect  as  manure.  Isinglass  and  sul- 
phur arc  common  in  many  places  :  and  coal  has  also  been  found, 
but  in  no  great  quantity. — The  salt-springs  at  Onondago  are  very 
strong,  and  produce  an  immense  quantity  of  that  useful  article. 
There  are  many  sulphur-springs,  and  several  air-springs,  which  last 
are  probably  the  gas  arising  from  the  combustion  of  pit  coul :  there 
is  a  medicinal  spring  at  Lebanon,  which  afibrds  a  pleasant  bath,  at 
the  temperature  of  72°,  and  is  much  frequented ;  but  the  most  re- 
markable springs  in  this  state,  or  indeed  in  the  United  States,  are 
those  of  Ballston  and  Saratoga.  These  waters  are  highly  medici- 
nal, and  are  of  great  efHcacy  in  dyspepsia  and  other  complaints ; 
and  are  much  frequented  in  the  summer  season. 

The  soil,  in  such  an  extent  of  country,  must  be  various.  The 
southern  and  eastern  part  is  a  dry  gravel,  mixed  with  loam,  and  is 
not  very  rich ;  the  mountainous  part  is  pretty  well  adapted  for 
grazing,  and  there  are  rich  valleys  on  the  rivers.  The  whole  ot 
die  northern  and  western  part  is  rich  and  fertile,  except  a  small 
portion  bordering  on  the  state  of  Pennsylvania,  which,  however, 
is  interspersed  with  fertile  lands.  ij 

.  The  climate  is  also  various.  In  that  part  which  lies  to  the  south  of 
the  highlands,  it  is  remarkably  changeable ;  it  experiences  all  the 
vicissitudes  of  heat  and  cold,  and  sometimes  a  change  of  30  degrees 
in  the  course  of  24<  hours.  Among  the  mountains,  and  along 
'  Lake  Champlain,  towards  Canada,  the  winters  are  long  and  severe, 
and  the  summers  are  sometimes  very  sultry  and  hot.  In  the  wes- 
tern district,  the  climate  is  more  temperate,  and  tte  winters  are 
subject  to  a  good  deal  of  rain;  but  the  whole  country  is  healthy, 
tile  neighbourhood  of  ponds  and   undrained  morasses  excepted. 


KIW    YOBK.  107 

The  winter  commences  about  Christmas,  and  ends  with  February ; 
but  March  and  April  ore  sometimes  cold  months. 

Captain  Hudson,  a  Dutch  navigator,  divcovered  Hudson's 
River,  in  the  year  1609,  and  about  the  year  1615,  the  Dutch  took 
formal  possession  of  the  country,  and  formed  a  settlement  at  the 
mouth  of  Hudson's  River,  called  New  Amsterdam,  and  another  160 
miles  up  the  river,  called  Fort  Orange.  In  1664,  Charles  II. 
made  a  grant  of  the  country  to  his  brother,  the  duke  of  York, 
nnd  an  army  of  3000  men  was  sent  to  take  possession  of  it,  which 
they  cosily  accomplished,  and  changed  the  name  of  New  Am- 
sterdam to  New  York,  and  Fort  Orange  to  Albanif,  In  1774-, 
New  York  took  an  active  part  in  the  revolutionary  war,  and  sent 
four  delegates  to  the  general  congress.  The  state  constitution 
was  framed  in  1777,  and  revised,  as  it  now  stands,  in  1801.  The 
state  vends  two  senators  and  1 7  representatives  to  congress. 

The  state  is  divided  into  43  counties,  and  about  300  townships. 
The  population  in  1800  was  586,203,  including  20,613  slaves; 
being  about  1 1  to  the  square  mile. 

This  state  has  progressed  rapidly  in  population,  wealth,  and  im- 
provements. There  are  four  incorporated  cities,  of  which  New 
York,  already  noticed,  is  the  chief.  The  others  are  Albany, 
Hudson,  and  Skenectady. 

Albany  is  the  seat  of  government,  and  contained,  b}  the  cen- 
sus of  1800,  about  7000  inhabitants;  but  they  have  since  much  in- 
creased. It  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade,  and  fast  rising  into 
importance.  \  v«    ^,^,  ■  ,i,\ 

Hudson  is  situated  at  the  head  of  ship  navigation,  and,  though 
only  laid  out  in  1784,  such  has  been  the  rapidity  of  its  growth* 
that  it  contained,  by  the  census  of  1800,  nearly  3000  inhabitants* 
They  have  here  a  very  considerable  trade,  and  elegant  packets  to 
and  from  New  York. 

Skenectady  is  a  handsome,  well-built  city,  on  the  Mohawk  river, 
16  miles  from  Albany,  and,  by  the  census  of  1800,  contained 
5289  inhabitants.  \M  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade,  and  has  a 
bank,  college,  and  three  places  for  public  worship.  -i; 

The  other  most  important  towns  and  villages  are  Newburg, 
Poughkeepsie,  Iroy,  Lansingburgh,  and  Waterford,  on  the  Hudson; 
Utica,  Herkimer,  and  Rome,  on  the  Mohawk ;  and  Skeneateless, 
Geneva,  Canandagua,  and  Buffalo,  to  the  westward.  The  houses 
are  generally  substantially  built,  and  are  a  good  deal  similar  to 


(    r 


■m 


]0S  ntw  YOnic. 

thdce  in  the  New  England  ttatet.  The  roads,  bridges  and  canals 
are  numerous,  and  of  great  importance. 

The  agriculture  of  the  state  is  far  advanced,  llie  staple  com. 
modity  is  0onr,  of  which  a  vast  quantity  iH  made  annually  fur  ex- 
portation; and  the  state  raises  ail  the  other  kindn  of  [>ru<liicr 
mentioned  in  the  account  of  the  New  England  states. 

The  manufactures  of  the  state  ore  considerable,  and  increasing; 
particularly  the  articles  of  gloss,  ashes,  iron-ware  of  various  di'- 
scriptiunis  leather  of  all  kindsi  hats,  carriagets  paper  and  prim- 
ing, pottery  ware,  umbrellas,  mathematical  and  musical  instru- 
ments. The  commerce  of  thp  state  is  exceedingly  extendetl,  und 
has  been  alluded  to  in  the  account  of  New  York ;  besides  wliicl), 
there  is  a  gfe^t  commerce  on  the  lakes  and  the  St.  J^wrcnco,  with 
Cunadot 

'ilie  society  in  this  state  is  very  much  mixed.  The  city  and  sontlieni 
part  of  the  state^  and  along  the  Hudson  and  Mohuwk  rivers,  arc 
mostly  of  Diftch,  Scottish,  and  Irish  extraction.  To  the  wcit, 
the  majority  are  New  Englanders ;  but  the  whole  harmonise  and 
unite  in  this  free  country,  and  will  soon  form  one  moss  of  re- 
publicans. Educatiop  was,  for  a  time,  considerably  neglected; 
but  it  is  now  well  attended  to,  considerable  funds  being  appropri- 
ated %o  the  support  of  it.  There  are  several  colleges  in  the  state, 
and  many  academier :  a  taste  for  knowledge  is  increasing,  and  with 
it  will  increase  the  good  sense  of  the  community,  and  every  useful  art. 

The  government  of  the  state  is  vested  in  a  governor,  lieutenant- 
governor,  senate,  and  house  of  representatives.  The  governor 
and  lieutenant-governor  ore  elected  for  three  years ;  the  senaton 
tur  four ;  and  the  assembly-men  are  chosen  annually.  The  neces* 
sury  qualifications  for  the  electors,  are  six  months  residence  in  the 
state  previous  to  the  election ;  the  possession  of  a  freehold  of  ^20 
value,  or  to  have  rented  a  tenement  of  the  value  of  40  shillingii 
yearly ;  and  to  have  been  rated  on  the  polls,  and  actually  paid 
taxes  to  the  state.  <      r .     ,u 

Tlie  funds  of  this  state  are  reported  to  be  in  a  most  flourishing 
situation ;  and  such  is  the  increase  in  wealth  and  population,  that 
it  I    ronsidcji'vd  one  of  tho  mo&t  important  states  in  the  union. 


t  \- 


■i^--** 


J .'  <*> 


•r>H     u';; 


KIW  JXRtBT. 


109 


^-•^1 


•  CHAinEH  XXI. 

Jt-rseyy — BrunsvcuJc, — Prmcftfywn^ — Trenton, 

^VkDNESDAY,  Scpteinlxr  34.  ilnving  finished  my  busincM 
in  New  York,  1  took  leave  o(  iny  fricndis  imd  crosted  Hudson> 
rivcr»  at  b  u'clock  in  i\\^  nioroing.  'Wa  d«iy  was  dull  and  cloudy, 
en  tlut  1  could  sec  but  little;  but  being  quite  ia  the  humour  for 
innkiii);  inquiries  regarding  this  extensive  country,  I  took  my 
place  on  tlie  lore-scat  beside  the  driver.  It  surprised  nie  to  ob- 
Merve  lu'W  well  iutbrmed  this  class  of  people  arc  in  America. 
In  uiy  journey  through  the  New  England  states,  I  was  highly 
gratified  by  the  prompt  and  accurate  answers  which  they  made  ta 
luy  questions;  and  I  resolved  to  follow  the  same  plan  of  obtaininj^ 
iiii'orniation  throughout  my  tour. 

We  took  our  departure  at  9  o'clock,  from  a  little  town  called 
Jersey,  which  is  the  landing-place  from  New  York,  and  travel- 
led a  few  miles  through  a  country  rather  stony  and  sandy,  to 
Bergen^  a  small  village,  having  a  church,  and  said  to  be  inhabited 
mostly  by  Dutch  |)cople.  A  little  further  on,  wc  reached  Hack- 
cnsack  river,  which  we  passed  by  a  toll-bridge,  and  immediately 
entered  into  n  very  extensive  swamp,  through  which  the  road  is 
cut  at  a  considerable  expcnce.  lliis  swamp  is  said  to  be  50  milef 
long,  and  about  ibur  broad,  and  abounds  with  grass  of  a  very 
strong  kind,  but  it  must  l>e  difficult  to  gather  it.  We  saw,  how- 
ever, that  it  had  been  all  cut  during  the  summer.  We  were  much 
molested  with  m^squetoe^  of  a  very  large  size,  during  our  pas- 
sage through  it ;  soon  after  which  we  passed  the  Passaic  rivers 
snd  arrived  at  Newark,  nine  miles  frqm  New  York. 

Hackensack  river  rises  in  New  York  state,  and  running  a  south* 
east  course,  falls  into  Rework  bay,  a  little  below  where  ^e  proised 
it.  It  is  navigable  15  miles  up  tl^e  country,  ^(i^aic  river  riict 
in  the  interior  of  the  country,  and  ruon jng  upwards  of  50  mil«^ 
by  a  very  winding  course,  tails  iqto  Newark  bay.  It  is  navig»> 
blc  about  10  miles ;  and,  albout  14>  mile»  froin  its  outlet,  there  lire 
ihlls  on  it  of  70  feet  perpendicular,  which  form  one  of  the 
greatest  curiosities  in  the  state,  and  constitute  a  fine  situation  for 
mill-seats,  at  which  a  cotton  nianufaurtory  has  been  recently  es^ 
tablished* 


-. .  t  »• 


■h' 


i . — 


_>--  jU  i 


110 


TRAVELS    IN 


[f^i 


Newark  is  a  beautiful  Tillage,  regularly  laid  out  in  broad  street?, 
on  a  fine  plain,  and  contains  nearly  2000  inhabitants.  The  pub- 
lie  buildings  are  two  ]>laros  for  public  worship,  a  court-house,  and 
academy.  Considerable  inanufacturcn  arc  carried  on  here,  par- 
ticularly of  leather.  The  inhabitants  have  likewise  a  pretty  exten- 
sive  inland  trade ;  and  have  a  bank  to  facilitate  their  commer- 
cial operations.  The  country  is  well  cultivated  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, and  Newark  is  remarkable  for  the  goodness  of  its  cyder, 
of  which  a  large  quantity  is  made  annually. 

Six  miles  beyond  Newark  is  lElizabethtown,  containing  two 
churches  and  an  academy.  It  is  a  pretty  little  place,  and  the  land 
in  its  neighbourhood  is  fertile,  and  well  cultivated. 

Ten  miles  from  thence,  tli  rough  a  pretty  fertile  country,  we 
reached  Woodbridge,  a  small  village,  where  we  stopped  for  dinner, 
at  I  o'clock.  The  day  was  rainy  and  disagreeable,  so  that  there 
was  no  great  pleasure  in  viewing  the  country ;  and  as  to  amuse- 
ment in  tlie  stage,  1  could  get  none,  for  there  was  a  surly-lookiiig 
man  from  Charleston,  who  engrossed  all  the  conversation,  and 
his  whole  talk  was  about  cotton,  and  he  spoke  as  if  nobody  knew 
any  thing  of  the  matter  but  himself. 

/t  half-past  three  o'clock,  we  reached  Brunswick,  36  miles 
from  New  York,  where  we  crossed  the  Kariton  River,  by  a  wood- 
en bridge.  This  is  one  of  the  most  considerable  rivers  in  New 
Jersey.  It  lises  about  SO  miles  above  this,  and,  running  a  south- 
east course,  falls  into  Rariton  Bay  at  Amboy.  It  is  navigable  to 
this  place,  by  which  means  a  great  trade  is  carried  on  with  New  York. 

Brunswick  is  an  incorporated  city,  containing  about  3000  in- 
habitants. The  greater  part  of  it  is  low,  and  it  is  not  very  hand- 
some, but  seems  to  be  improving.  It  was  originally  settled  most- 
ly by  Dutch  people,  and  there  are  three  Dutch  churches.  The 
other  public  buildings,  worthy  of  notice,  are  the  Court- House  and 
Academy ;  which  last  is  said  to  be  a  very  thriving  seminary.  The 
lands  in  the  neighbourhood  appear  rough  and  rocky ;  but  we  verc 
informed  that  they  raised  pretty  good  crops,  particularly  of  grass, 
which  had,  throughout  the  whole  of  this  district,  flourished  very 
much  of  late,  in  consequence  of  the  application  of  plaster  of  Paris 

The  afternoon  continued  wet,  and  the  road  was  very  bad, 
through  a  level  country,  about  14  miles,  when  we  passed  a  small 
place  called  Kingston ;  from  whence  the  road  is  much  improved, 
iuid  proceeds  through  a  fine  country,  and  by  an  easy  ascent,  about 


NEW    JERSIY. 


in 


three  miles  to  Princeton,  which  we  reached  a  little  after  dark.  We 
should  have  stopped  here  for  the  night ;  but  there  was  a  Commence^ 
mciU  ball  at  the  stage-house,  and  we  were  informed  that  we  must 
move  on  to  Trenton,  albeit  the  night  was  wet  and  dark,  and  we 
were  sufficiently  tired.  I  was  mortified  at  this  decision,  for  T  wish- 
ed very  much  to  see  the  ball.  i.  v  :  ; 

During  the  short  time  we  stopped,  I  went  into  the  ball-room, 
where  the  dance  was  going  on,  and  almost  the  first  object  that 
salute<l  my  eyes,  was  Miss  Gibbons,  a  dashing  belle  from  Savannah. 
I  thought  myself  at  home.  But  I  can't  say  I  was  so  much  pleased 
with  the  appearance  of  the  "  fair-oncs,"  as  I  was  in  Yankee-land. 
There  was  a  great  number  of  "  elegant  forms,"  and  "  handsome 
faces ;"  but  the  dress  was,  generally  speaking,  showy,  not  neat — 
the  indication  of  a  bad  taste ;  and  the  most  of  them  had  large, 
three  inch  diameter  sort  of  rings  in  their  ears,  called  by  some  of  the 
I  students,  not  inaptly,  "  Cupid's  chariot  wheels."  Nor  did  the 
dancing  please  me.  The  music  was  a  French  cotillion,  to  which 
they  "  sprawled  and  sp'aitchled"  and  le  tout  ensemble  was  the  very 
contrast  to  those  soul-inspiring  reels  and  strathspeys  which  animate 
our  Scots  girls,  and  set  them  in  motion,  "  their  feet  as  pat  to  the 
music  as  its  echo."  I  entered  into  conversation  with  some  of  the 
students  and  young  ladies  who  were  by-standers,  who  answered  my 
enquiries  with  much  affability ;  and  I  lefl  the  room  \i'\*\i  regret 
when  I  was  called  to  take  my  passage  in  the  stage,  u-   '•„*  >   u  •?.  * 

Of  the  town  of  Princeton  I  could,  of  course,  see  nothing  at  that 
late  hour,  but  I  learned  that  it  is  handsomely  situated  on  elevated 
ground,  from  whence  there  is  a  very  fine  view,  through  a  well  cul- 
tivated adjoining  country.  The  number  of  dwelling-houses  is  a- 
bout  100,  and  the  college  is  reputed  one  of  the  best  seminaries  in  the 
United  States. 

Having  got  a  number  of  the  students  as  passengers,  the  stage  was 
crowded ;  and,  on  our  way  to  Trenton,  it  broke  down  by  one  of  the 
!  braces  giving  way.     It  is  customary  in  Britain  to  provide  against 
an  accident  of  this  kind,  by  having  an  iron  chain  to  supply  the  place 
{ of  the  brace;    and  the  contrivance  being  a  very  simple  one,   I 
thought  it  would  have  been  adopted  here ;  but  to  my  surprise  there 
j  was  no  chain,  and  the  defect  was  supplied  by  breaking  down  an  ho- 
nest man's  fence,  and  thrusting  a  rail  under  the  carriage,  while  the 
passengers  stood  almost  up  to  the  ancles  in  the  mud,  holding  it  up. 
Being  fixed  in  this  way,  we  jolted  on  to  Trenton,  which  we  reached 
near  12  o'clock  at  night. 


\m 


:'>f 


iU^^.;l 


i 


i::u 


Hilt* 


ti.ii;  ■    lif; ' 


112 


NEW  JERSEY. 


i 


Trenton  fs  the  capital  of  New  Jersey,  and  is  situated  on  the  Del- 
aware river,  30  miles  from  Philadelphia,  and  66  from  New  York. 
It  is  a  handsome  little  town,  containing  about  200  houses.  The 
publiic  buildii^  are  the  state-house,  a  court-hou^e,  an  episcopal 
church,  a  presbyterian  church,  a  quaker  meeting-house,  and  me- 
thodist  meeting*hou8e. 


CHAPTER  XXU. 

■*'■     ''  '  ^Kew  Jersey 

Is  situated  between  39"  and  41"  20'  north  latitude,  and  1*  3(r 
and  3**  6'  east  longitude.  Its  length  is  145  miles,  and  \Xs  breadth 
60.     It  contains  7920  square  miles,  being^  5,068,800  acres. 

The  state  extends  along  the  sea-coast  upwards  of  100  miles, 
which,  with  the  exception  of  the  highlands  of  Never  Sink,  is  low 
and  sandy ;  but  it  is  more  elevated  and  more  diversified  towards  the 
interior.  The  northern  part  swells  out  into  high  lands,  and,  to* 
wards  the  extremity  of  the  state,  there  are  considerable  mountains. 
The  principal  rivers  have  been  already  noticed,  and  there  are  no  o- 
Aer  of  any  note,  though  small  streams  are  numerous,  and  supply 
the  state  abundantly  with  mill-seats. 

The  state  abounds  with  minerals ;  producing  iron,  lead,  copper, 
gypsum,  coal,  and  slate ;  and  there  are  several  useful  clays  and 
ochres; 

About  one-fourth  part  of  the  state  is  sandy  nnd  barren ;  there  are  in 
the  southern  parts  extensive  pine  barrens,  and  cedar  swamps.  Large 
tracts  of  salt  meadow  run  along  Delaware  bay,  and  the  rivers  which 
fidl  into  the  Atlantic.  Along  the  rivers  and  small  streams  in  the 
interior  of  the  state  there  is  much  good  land ;  and  the  hilly  district 
abounds  with  fertile  valleys.  ;r-',fH\=' r?, ;  ^  nfj^jftrff.  j;  i^.^^  ^ 
''The  climate  is  strikingly  different  in  the  different  sections  of  the 
state.  In  the  northern  part  there  is  clear  settled  weather,  and  the 
winters  are  excessively  cold,  but  the  whole  is  very  healthy  :  in  the 
southern  part,  particularly  towards  the  extremity,  the  climate  ap* 
proaches  to  that  of  tlie  southern  states,  and  is  subject  to  very  sud* 
den  changes. 

New  Jersey  was  first  settled  by  the  Dutch,  in  1618 ;  but  falling 
into  the  hands  of  the  English,  it  was  granted,  along  with  New 
York,  by  Charles  11.^  to  his  brother,  the  Duke  of  York.    It  wus  a* 


yEW  J«SEY. 


U3 


e,  and   !•»  3(r 
nd  its  breadth 


moQg  the  ^M  «Utes  tbfit  ^i:G«d!td  to  tiiie  W«on,  M»d  *^nt  fixe  ^iJele- 
gate»  to  coi^gress,  ia  177*.  Jt  bore  «  yery  f^^ve  part  jn  the  «w- 
te*t  for  indq)€H»d©nce,  nod  was  ioi^  4h*  iluiHU:?  iQf  .wgr,  in  ivhi<^»  jt 
ftuff«;red  gr«Rt  losses  w4  privations.  ;It  Maw  sun^  ^Vtq  $Q»ator«  m\d 
•ix  iseproientatives  to  the  congress  of  the  Usitiid  .Stittes. 

The  state  is  4ivyid«d  into  ^3  counties  and  IQO  towpship^  and 
contains  211,149  inhabitants,  including  12)422  slaves;  bei|>g  ^P* 
wards  of  26  persons  to  the  square  mile. 

The  principal  towns  have  betti  akeady  mentioned,  besides  which 
diere  are  Burlington  and  Bordeyifosfin,  two  considerable  places  on 
the  Delaware,  and  Salem  and  Patterson,  in  the  interior ;  which  lust 
is  a  manufacturing  town,  4t  t;he  lall?^/ P.»3saic,  Mc«ady  noticed,  and 
is  rising  fast  into  importance.  The  country  is  pretty  well  improved 
by  thriving  fnrms,  and  the  roads  and  bridges  are  numerous.  I  did 
not  hear  of  any  canals,  but  I  learned  t^ere  was  one  projected  across 
the  country  from  Brunswick  to  Trenton,  which,  if  carried  into  ef- 
fect, will  certainly  be  a  great  improvement,  as  it  will  complete  the 
inland  navigation  between  New  York  and  Philadelphia. 

New  Jersey  is  settled  with  frugal  industrious  farmers.  The  pro- 
duce of  the  state  is  wheat,  rye,  barley,  oats,  Indian  e<M-n,  potatoes, 
and  otlier  vegetable*,  and  a  vast  quantity  of  fruit ;  and  butter  and 
cheese  are  made  in  great  quantites,  for  tlie  supply  c^the  New  Yoi4c 
and  Philadelphia  markets.    .   .-  •    <  .  "  .. ' 

The  inhabitaiYts  of  New  Jersey,  exc^t  in  the  towns,  make  the 
greater  part  of  their  clothing,  and  there  are  several  manufactories 
of  cottons  and  woollens,  on  a  large  scale.'  Of  iron,  the  manu&ctures 
are  very  extensive,  and  the  quantity  is  considerable  of  leather,  glass, 
and  paper.  The  state  has  hardly  any  foreign  commerce,  nearly 
the  whole  being  carried  on  through  the  medium  of  New  York  and 
Philadelphia.  Tlie  principal  sea-port  is  Amboy,  but  the  direct  ex- 
ports, annually,  amount  to  only  a  few  thousand  dollars.  The  state 
is  supplied  with  foreign  goods  through  ^e  large  cities  idrendy 
mentioned.  -      •    '■     •      ■  ^^   *  •.  . -i  «>   .  -       , 

The  general  dissemination  of  knowledge  througfi  the  state  has 
not  been  attended  to  according  to  its  importance.  There  are  nu" 
merous  seminaries  for  the  higher  branches  of  literature;  but  the  . 
state  seems  defective  in  common  schools,  I  keep  the  pM'ish  schools 
in  Scotland  constantly  in  my  mind,  and  I  regret  when  the  system 
for  the  instructiun  of  the  mass  of  the  people  does  not  come  up  to 
tiiat  standard.  • 


114 


TRAVELS   IN 


The  government  of  this  state  is  vested  in  ft  governor,  legislative 
council,  and  general  assembly.  The  council  consists  of  on« 
member,  and  the  asseinbly  of  three  members,  from  each  countv, 
chosen  annually  by  the^eople.  The  governor  is  chosen  annually 
by  the  council  and  assembly.  The  qualification  for  a  voter  is 
£,  50.  The  state  is  prospering,  and  increasing  in  population  and 
wealth. 


'!  \,  v.i. 


l^H^^ 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Trenton  hidgef^-Bristoli— Philadelphia, 

Thursday,  September  2Sth,  we  set  out  from  Trenton,  at 
6  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  crossed  the  river  Delaware  by  Tren- 
ton bridge.    Tliis  bridge  was  finished  in  February  last,  and  b^ 
ing  one  of  the  most  elegant  in  the  United  States,  and  different  io 
construction  from  any  I  have  seen  before,  it  merits  a  particular 
description.    It  consists  of  five  arches  of  194  feet  span  each,  built 
of  white  pine,  and  supported  on  stroi^  stone  piers;  the  wholt 
length  is  9.70  feet ;  the  breadth  36.    The  arches  are  elevated  over 
liead  by  substantial  rafters,  and  the  platform,  or  carriage-way,  is 
suspended  by  these  arches,  and  forms  a  plane  the  whole  length  of 
tlie  bridge.     Above  the  top  of  the  arches  the  roof  is  covered  in, 
so  as  to  secure  the  whole  from  the  weather ;  and  the  carriage-way 
is  divided  into  two  sections,  each  of  which  is  apropriated  to  tra- 
vellers in  one  direction.     At  the  entrance,  passengers  are  directed 
to  take  the  road  on  the  right  hand.     Upon  tlie  whole,  this  is  a 
very  elegant  piece  of  architecture.    It  was  commenced  in   1801, 
and  is  the  plan  of  a  mechanic  of  the  name  of  Burr. 

The  Delaware  is  a  noble  river.  Its  head  waters  are  in  New 
York  state,  from  whence  it  pursues  a  south-cast  course,  forming 
the  boundary  between  that  state  and  Pennsylvania,  about  60 
miles,  and  thence  forms  the  boundary  between  Pennsylvania  and 
New  Jersey,  upwards  of  100  more  to  this  place,  where  there  are 
falls,  but  of  no  great  height.  From  hence  it  increases  in  breadtb, 
dunng  a  course  of  36  miles,  to  Philadelphia,  where  it  is  a  mile  | 
broad.  As  it  proceeds  downwards  it  gradually  increases,  and,  40 
miles  below  ^Philadelphia,  at  Newcastle,  it  is  two  miles  broad, 
thence  it  spreads  out  into  a  spacious  bay,  and  fidls  into  the  At*  j 


PlNKSYLVAmA. 


115 


>r,  legislative 
nsists  of  on« 
each  county, 
»sen  annually 
or  a  voter  is 
opulation  and 


n  Trenton,  at 
ware  by  Tren- 
last,  and  b^ 
id  different  in  I 
s  a  particular 
lan  each)  built 
;rs ;  the  whole 
e  elevated  over 
irriage-way,  is 
vhole  length  of 
is  covered  in, 
e  carriage-waj 
riated  to  tra- 
s  are  directed 
|hole,  this  is  » 
iCed  ill   1804, 

are  in  New 
aurse,  forming^ 
lia,    about  60 ; 
isylvania  andl 
irhere  there  are  ] 
es  in  breadth, 
Ire  it  is  a  mile  [ 
ises,  and,  40 
miles  broad,] 
into  the  At* 


lantic  ocean  70  miles  below  Newcastle,  its  outlet  behig  25  miles 
wide.  It  is  navigable  for  vessels  of  any  burden  to  Philadelphia  ; 
for  sloops  and  other  small  craft  to  Trenton,  where  it  is  obstruct- 
ftl  by  the  falls;  but  above  thera  it  is  navigable  for  boaU  upwards 
of  lOOmiles.  ^  ?    »   ,  ...  .•        v   -   -    -^  i     ••  n^ 

Immediately  after  passing  this  river  we  were  in  the  state  of 
Pennsylvania ;  and  among  the  ftrst  houses  tliat  attracted  my  no- 
tice was  Morrisville,  the  seat  of  general  Morcau.  It  is  a  fina 
house,  with  elegant  grounds  about  it;  and  I  have  no  doubt  but 
the  general  finds  it  a  happy  retreat  from  the  turbulent  scenes  of 
Europe.  I  could  not  pass  this  place  without  a  great  variety  of 
reflections.  General  ^foreaii  bore  an  active  part  in  the  French 
revolution,  and  supported  a  character  in  arms,  rivalled  only  by 
that  of  Bonaparte  himself.  He  fought  for  republican  principles, 
and  br^vpd  every  danger  to  establish  them  in  his  native  land. 
His  reputation  rose  with  his  extraordinary  merit,  and  he  was  la 
the  full  tide  of  popularity  in  the  republic,  which  he  had  served 
to  establish,  when,  by  a  sud(]en  transitioii  of  foirtune,  that  republic 
vanished  from  the  earth :  his  great  rival  in  anps  was  elevated  to 
a  throne ;  and  he  was  exiled  to  the  banks  of  the  Pelaware.  But 
happy,  in  my  mind,  is  he  who  is  thus  exiled.  A  republican  iinda 
here  a  republic,  an4  the  only  republic  on  the  &ce  of  tlie  earth  that 
ever  deserved  the  name ;  where  all  are  under  the  protection  of 
equal  laws ;  of  laws  made  by  themselves  :  where  every  man  "  sits 
under  his  viiie,  and  uiider  his  fig-tree,  ant)  none  to  make  him 
afraid ;"  and  where,  far  removed  from  the  turbulence  and  din  of 
maddened  Europe,  he  can  enjo^  <<  health,  and  peace,  and  sweet 
content," 

From  Trenton  bridge  we  travelled  10  miles,  to  Bristol.  The 
road  was  good,  and  passes  partly  by  the  river  side,  through  a 
level  country,  but  the  soil  is  rather  sandy.  The  banks  of  the  river 
&re  very  beautiful,  and  adorned  with  many  elegant  villas.  Bristol 
is  a  handsome  village,  oil  tlie  banks  of  the  river,  and  contains 
probably  100  houses,  many  of  them  elegaiit.  A  few  miles  beyond 
Bristol  we  passed  a  considerable  qreek,  and  continuing  our  course 
near  the  river  side,  through  a  v^ry  fine  country,  repassed  through 
Frankfordf  five  miles  from  Philadelphia.  This  is  an  elegant  vil- 
lage, containiiig  i^bout  IQO  houses,  and  is  a  place  of  considerable 
resort  for  the  inhabitants  of  Philadelphia  in  the  summer  seasoii, 
A  little  beyond  this  we  passed  a  rising  ground,  called  Prospect 


.    116  TKAVBIS   Ilf 

HiU^  Where  ^  hilA'tke  fiiM  view  of  Philadelphia.  Tho  rond 
Wtfitbroad^  and  wdU  ittetsUed  with  brokeh  stones,  which  reiv 
ifentrmeMing  prtttj  roa^^  but  ii  ivgood  uponf  the  whoie.  Tiif 
•oanftry  it  no(#  rith  and  leTel,^  abounding  inr  gflirden»a(nd  orchards; 
and  exhibits  every  appearance  of  the  approach  to  a  great  city. 
On  emeriAg  the  cky,  1  was  qvitc  delighted  with  the  regularity  of 
the  stretilis  and  bemrty  oS  th«  bvildioigs.  The  stage  drove  nearly 
'  »  libile  through  the  chy,  and  I  took  up  nvy  residence  9t  the  Man* 
•M^-H<Miise  Hotei^  in  Tbtrd<street 
v-y      :-^  r.  *r;  :'i.  .•■..':  ■     ■  «*:  ■■■;,■•'     -■       .>'..- 

■     1?;'"/'  ':'.;    .'        CHAFTER  XXIV,   '       V\;  *  '  • 

;  ,*  '         >        Phil»deljfMa, 

Tftll?  city  is  situated  between  the  Delaware  and  Schuylkill 
xivers,  about  four  miles  above  their  junction.  It  is  laid  out  on 
,4  on  elegant  plan,  with  streets  crossing  one  another  at  right  angles, 
'%  and  extends  between  the  two  rivers,  being  upwards  of  two  miles 
.in  length,  frofn  edst  to  west,  and  a  little  moi^  than  one  mile 
ia  breadth.  There  are  large  suburbs  to  the  north  and  south,  on 
the  Delaware  river,  called  the  Northern  Liberties,  Kensington, 
and  Southwark ;  and  these  extend  upwards  of  a  mile  to  the  north, 
and  half  a  mile  south  of  the  city,  making  the  extreme  lengthen 
the  Delaware  river  nearly  three  miles.  But  the  city  is  cjosely 
built  to  the  westward  only  about  a  mile ;  the  buildings  on  the 
Remaining  part,  towards  the  Schuylkill,  being  very  thinly  scatter- 

*  ed.  It  is  however  rapidly  filling  up  in  that  direction.  High  or 
Market-street  is  about  100  feet  broad,  alad  running  the  whole 
length  of  the  city,  is  terminated  by  the  Schuylkill  bridge  to  tlic 
tfrest,  A  street  of  equal  breadth,  called  Broad-street,  crosses  it 
in  the  middle,  where  there  is  a  large  area,  called  Centre-Square, 
on  which  the  water- works  are  built.  The  streets  running  pa- 
ratlel  to  High-street  are  named  after  various  trees'  said  to  have 
been  found  on  the  ground  on  which  they  are  laid  out.    T^  tlw 

,    north,  are  Mulberry,  Sassafrast  and  Vine;  tc  fUe  south>  Ckesnut^ 

^  ff^inuif  Locust,  Spruce^  Pine,  &tid  Cedat.    Tlie  cross  Greets  are 

ntunbttred  according  to  situation  from  the  rivers,  thus,  Front, 

iSi^oond,  Third,  and  so  on,  to  Thirteenth,  on  the  Delaware  side; 

and  irom  Front  to  Eighth,  wa  the  Schuylkill  side.    Mulbeny 


PBKNSYLVANli.  117 

Dtreet  is  60  feet  wide,  and  all  the  other  stf^s  are  50.  It  wm 
the  intention  of  th«  benevolent  projector  of  tlMf  citfy  that  Front- 
street,  on  the  Delaware^  ahould  have  been  the  eastern  l>oundary, 
gnd  that  the  space  between  that  and  the  river  should  have  been 
(inverted  into  public  ground,  useful  and  ornameiHal  to  the  city ; 
but  tin's  eleganf  plan  has  given  way  to  the  avidity  foi^  conimev- 
pial  gainy  and  thia  spot  is  now  thickly  built  tip  with  wharvei^ 
^archouseM,  and  dwelling-houses ;  which  form  a  street  oo  the  k)tf 
ground  along  the  margin  of  the  river,  called  Water-^roet.  In 
the  original  plan  tltere  were  a  great  number  of  public  s<|u«fe84 
but  several  of  ihem  have  also  been  infringed  upon^  though  there 
are  still  many  left,  which  are  very  ornamental  to  the  city. 

This  city  contained,  by  the  census  of  1800,  81,000  inhabitiints, 
and,  as  there  has  been  a  great  increase  since,  they  are  now  es- 
timated at  upwards  of  90,000  ;*'  and  the  buildings  at  upwards  of 
J4,000. 

The  city  is  composed  almost  wholly  of  bri<ik  housesy  c&vered 
with  slate,  or  shingles;  and  they  are  generally  orAainehted  with 
garble  steps,  with  soles  and  lintels  for  the  doors  and  window! ; 
which  form  an  elegaiit  contrast  with  the  bri<:k,  and  add  n)u«h  to 
the  beauty  of  the  buildings,  Some  of  the  public  buildingis  ar4 
yybolly  composed  of  marble,  and  others  are  much  oifnam^nted 
with  it,  which  gives  the  city  an  elegant  and  even  ntagnifieent  ap« 
pearance.  ,         ,   /  .  f  ,-. 

The  public  buildingi  are  very  n^merou^  The  bare  mehttoR 
of  a  few  of  them  wit)  be  sufficient  to  convey  an  idev  of  the  iik» 
porta«)ee  of  thia  city.  The  State*House,  with  th«  Coort^Hooset 
Slid  Phildsophi<pal  Hall  adjoining,'  the  Dispensary,.  AUn»<HoaM^ 
Hospital}  Jail>  Carpenter's  H^H)  College,.  Acadenriyv  Library* 
two  theattes^  four,  banks^  five  quajcer  meeting-houses,  six  preoby* 
terian  churches,  three  episcopal  chnrehesy  four  Ronunt  catholic 
l^liurches,  three  methodist  churches^  ra»d  one  eacb  Ibr  German 
Calvinists,  Qerman  irutherians,  Swedish  Lulherasis,  MoTiwiansi 
baptists,   Jews,  and  universalists.f  :i;     vi^;- 

The  State-House  is  rem^kakle  aai  being  the  phue  from  vAldti^e 
Ithe  independence  of  the  United  States  was  first  proclaimed ;  and 
the  legislatUYe  qf  the  United.  State*  held  their  meelingt  it  tlM 
idjtiniiig^  buUdingS)  while  Philadelpliia  was  the  seatef  t)i»gMitf* 


! 


*  py  thb  e«ntu*  of  1810,  the  city  «nd  coMntry  contain  1 1 1,210. 
t  Auri1lwMifcAt)Mhisrttf#(lSl^'6utfdtn^; 


118  TRAVBLS   IN 

ral  government.  When  the  legislature  of  Pennsylvania  continu- 
ed  at  Philadelphia,  they  held  their  meetings  in  the  iSiate- House; 
but  the  seat  of  government  has  been  removed  to  Lancaster,  and 
that  building  now  contains  Pealc's  Museum. 

There  are  three  market-houses  in  the  city,  the  principal  of 
which  is  in  High-street.  It  is  a  very  handsome  building,  about 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length,  and  is  well  suplied  with  provisions. 
The  price  of  provisions  is  somewhat  cheaper  than  in  New  York. 
Beef,  mutton,  and  veal  may  be  quoted  at  from  6  to  8  cents  per 
pound,  and,  generally  speaking,  all  other  articles  of  domestic 
production  may  be  quoted  as  one-fifth  cheaper  than  in  the  latter 
city. 

The  manufactures  of  this  city  are  rising  into  great  importance. 
The  principal  are  leather  of  every  description,  a  great  variety  of 
wood  and  iron  work,  ships,  ropes,  fermented  and  distilled  liquors, 
earthenware,  tin  plate,  hats,  stockings,  and  a  ,vast  variety  of  cloths 
of  various  descriptions.  The  printing  business  is  better  establish- 
ed  here  than  in  any  other  place  on  the  continent,  and  gives  em* 
ployment  to  a  great  number  of  paper-mills,  and  all  classes  con* 
nected  with  the  book-trade :  printers,  type-founders,  engravers, 
bookbinders,  and  booksellers  and  stationers. 

The  whole  export  trade  of  the  state  is  carried  on  through  this 
city.  The  exports  are  grain,  flour,  and  provisions,  flaxseed, 
timber,  various  iron  utensils,  cord<tge,  bark,  skins,  hosiery,  gun- 
powder, ashes,  candles,  cyder,  &c.  The  imports  consist  of 
British  manufactures  to  a  great  amount.  West  India  produce, 
India  goods,  China  produce,  &c.  The  exports  of  the  state,  in 
1805,  amounted  to  13,762,252  dollars,  of  which  4,365,240  dollars 
was  the  produce  of  the  state ;  and  the  imports  may  be  reckoned 
at  considerably  more,  as  Philadelphia  supplies  the  inhabitants  of 
an  immense  back  country  with  manufactured  goods,  who  find  an 
outlet  for  their  produce  by  another  channel,  and  remit  in  domes- 
tic produce  or  specif  neither  of  which  is  exhibited  in  the  custom- 
house returns.  '  ■  -i  ' 

This  city  is  under  great  obligations  to  the  quakers,  who  have 
given  a  tone  to  the  manners  of  the  people,  different  from  what 
is  to  be  found  in  most  other  places  of  equal  extent.  They  are  in- 
dustrious and  sober ;  and,  though  sufficiently  commercial,  they 
di>  not  conduct  their  business  in  the  sax^ei  trashing  style  which  is 
dope  by  some  coipmerci^l  cities;  but  C9nfine  themselves  within 


PENNSYLVANIA.  1 19 

bounds,  and  secure  what  they  gain.  Education  is  on  an  excellent 
footing :  besides  the  larger  seminaries  already  noticed,  there  ar« 
numerous  academies  and  schools  throughout  the  city.  The  arts 
and  sciences  have  been  long  cultivated.  A  Philosophical  Society 
was  established  in  the  year  1 769,  and  they  have  published  several 
volumes  of  their  transactions.  The  Library  Company  was  esta- 
blished as  early  as  the  year  1731. — The  other  societies  of  greatest 
importance  are  the  College  of  Physicians,  instituted  for  the  purpose 
of  promoting  medical,  anatomical,  and  chemical  knowledge;  the 
Pennsylvanian  'Society  for  promoting  the  Abolition  of  Slavery,  and 
the  relief  of  free  Negroes  unlawfully  held  in  bondage ;  the  Pennsyl- 
vania Academy  of  Fine  Arts ;  the  Agricultural  Society ;  Premium 
Society ;  a  Society  for  alleviating  the  Miseries  of  Public  Prisons ; 
Humane  Society ;  Marine  Benevolent  Society ;  St.  Andrew's  So- 
ciety ;  Scota  Thistle  Society ;  St.  Potrick's  Society ;  Hibernian  So- 
ciety ;  St.  George's  Society ;  Welsh  Society ;  French  Benevolent 
Society ;  German  Society.  The  Grand  Lodge  of  Pennsylvania  ia 
established  here,  and  tltere  are  15  or  16  lodges  of  free-masons. 

The  police  of  the  city  is  said  to  be  better  regulated  than  that  of 
any  other  on  the  continent.  It  appears  to  be  much  better  than 
New  York.  There  are  public  scavengers,  who  clean  the  streets  at 
stated  times,  and  the  side  pavements  are  generally  washed  every 
morning.  These  are  broad,  and  generally  well  paved  with  brick, 
and,  the  streets  being  lined  with  rows  of  treees,  a  walk  through 
the  city  in  a  summer  morning  is  delightful.  The  city  is  elevated 
50  or  60  feet  above  the  river,  in  consequence  of  which  there  is  an 
ample  descent  for  the  water;  and  the  streets  are  well  supplied 
with  common  sewers,  which  serve  to  carry  off  all  the  filth ;  and 
they  are  kept  sweet  by  the  supply  of  fresh  water  from  the  water- 
works, which  is  constantly  pouring  into  them  from  every  part  of 
the  city.  This  supply  of  water  also  keeps  the  streets  pure  by 
running  along  the  gutters,  so  that  almost  every  street  has  a  little 
stream  on  each  side  of  it;  and  this  circumstance,  though  ap- 
parently trivial,  is  probably  of  more  importance  than  is  generally 
imagined.  •"'  ' 

They  have  helre,  as  well  as  in  New  York,  adopted  the  plan  of 
unking  necessaries ;  but  I  was  informed  that  those  in  Philadelphia 
must  be  regularly  cleaned,  and  I  did  not  observe  the  smell  to  be 
near  so  otfensive  m  at  New  York :    both  citie8»  however,   in  n^ 


J90 


TKAVBLS  in 


opinicxi)   wroukl  odoiit  of  great  improvaoent  in  tliis  Afoppitaiit 
lMran«h  of  police.* 

The  inhabitants  geiaerally  bayd  firoth  OQrQpi^xJkMp,  the  iuji- 
cutlon  of  leoiperancv  and  healths  Their  dreM  ami  waniiers  af# 
{jfAlty  mucJi  assunilated  to  .those  of  New  Yprk,  ,although  thetie 
if  a  considerable  sprinkliAg  of  tbeqttaker  habiits  difiuHiod  tbrougii 
(lie  c^tyi  which  may  at  first  view,  to  a  stranger,  appear  more  foT" 
inid^pig  and  a^atctrc  i  bdit,  on  the  othw  iiand«  the  attem,iQn  the/ 
fio  P»yi  being  ^he  /^uJit  of  conwderatipn^  may  |>robably  be  nions 
MQcere,  aiKi  ti^^ir  j^ifxidsmp  of  a  kind  i;hat  wiU  wqar  .w«|L 


CHAPTER   XXV. 

„ ..,-_-  --mU  qf  ^ehuylkilU 

\  HE  two  first  days  of  my  stay  in  Philadelfjhia  were  wet  and 
stormy,  so  that  I  could  see  but  little.  I  took  a  ride,  in  company 
with  a  friend,  to  t^e  floating  bridge  on  the  Schuylkill  river,  nenr 
its  junction  with  the  Delaware.  The  river  is  here  about  SOO  yards 
broad,  and  the  country  between  it  and  Philadelphia  is  level,  rich, 
and  well  cultivated.  -^    '' 

On  the  27th,  I  went  to  see  the  vvatcr-Wofks.  The  building 
whidi  contains  the  reservoir  is  in  the  Centre-Square,  being  the 
most  elevated  ground  in  the  city.  It  occupies  a  square  of  60  feet; 
from  the  middle  there  is  a  circular  tower,  4^  feet  in  diameter, 
and  60  feet  high,  which  contains  the  reservoir;  and  -this  tower  is 
terminated  by  a  dome,  which  gives  it  a  very  handsome  appearance. 
The  water  is  conveyed  to  this  building  from  the  Schuylkill,  a  dis- 
tance of  neariy  a  mile,   through   a  circular  brick  tunnel,  of  «jx 

«*  ^nk  tn^^fiWNfriw  .iM^  \  ,bclic.M*>  .(;o(iunqn  thrp.ii^out  the  United  States,  and 
^ve,  at  fiDUt.view,  the  appear.ince  uf  .coittributing  to  clean^ness,  as  ttiey  are  cle]>osi- 
l9rie«  nuder  ground  for  every  kind  wf  tilth.  But  it  is  to  be  observetl,  that  the  iiltii 
collected  in  them  is  constantly  generating  a  most  oflTeniiive  ,and  pifsmidoui*  gs«,  which 
mingles  with  the  atmosphere,  is  breathed  every  day  by  the  inhabitants  of  JUrge  ^-'iM^, 
#tnd  4ui|8t  .cQntKiMM^  K>  #epder  .thera  uphealtliy.  Would  it  nojt  he  wise  to  /prevent  .th!<? 
''i;h«i*4ft<i!U  Vay,of.jilM(|K'^  I  apprehend,  but  by  cpustiuctin^  necessaries  on  a  pUn 
.  ,tfiat  they  niay  )>e  clcan^  once  «  w  cck  or  oflcncr,  and  have  this  and  all  othvr  lil^ 
deposited  in  dung-hills  in  the  country,  from  whence  it  may  be  taken  to  toanurc  tli« 
liround.  )n  some  cities  that  have  come  uhd^  my  obsetvation,  the  ftridp  ob^ocd  h^ 
ti»e  nriauturc,  is  BMrc  than  equal  to  the  expence  af  keeping  them  clean. 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


K 


foci  diameter,  linving  a  full  of  six  inches  toward  the  Scliuylkill. 
'I'lie  water  is  received  from  the  ISchuylkill  into  n  substantial  basin 
and  canal,  and  from  thence  is  raised  by  a  steam-engine  to  the  level 
of  the  aqueduct,  which  conveys  it  to  the  Centre-Square.  It  is 
there  received  into  another  basin,  and  thence,  by  another  steam- 
t'Hifinc,  is  elevated  to  the  circular  tower,  from  whence  it  issues 
through  wooden  pipes,  in  all  directions,  to  supply  the  city. 

Tlie  whole  expence  of  the  works  was  about  150,000  dollars 
{£.33,150  sterling.)  The  work  was  undertaken  by  the  corporation, 
who  raised  the  funds  partly  by  a  tax,  and  partly  by  loan,  allow- 
ing the  subscribers  to  the  loan  six  per  cent,  interest  for  their  money, 
and  the  use  of  the  water  free  for  three  years,  for  every  lOO  dollars 
subscribed.  -     . 

Tiic  city  is  supplied  with  water  by  contract,  and  the  contrac- 
tor is  obliged  to  supply  three  millions  of  gallons  per  day  if  requir- 
ed. The  annual  expense  is  six  thousand  dollars  for  one  million  of 
gallons  per  day,  and  for  any  additional  quantity,  up  to  two  millions, 
the  expense  is  at  the  rate  of  half  that  sum.  The  engine  is  40  horse 
power,  and  can  raise,  if  necessary,  four  millions  and  a  half  of  gallons 
per  day ;  so  that  the  supply  must  be  abundant  for  every  purpose. 

Th;;  water  is  soft  and  good ;  but  it  is  not  filtered,  and  is,  of 
course,  sometimes  muddy,  though  never  so  much  so  as  to  render  it 
unfit  for  use ;  and  it  is  always  wholesome.  It  is  of  great  importance 
to  these  works  that  they  are  the  property  of  the  public,  and  not  sub- 
ject to  individual  speculation,  in  consequence  of  which  the  supply 
is  liberal,  and  there  are  fountains  in  every  street,  to  which  the  whole 
public  have  access.  The  water  can  be  used  for  watering  the  streets, 
or  extinguishing  fires,  as  otten  as  may  be  necessary ;  while  every 
householder,  by  paying  a  reasonable  compensation,  can  have  a  hy- 
drant in  any  pai't  of  his  premises  that  he  pleases,  even  to  the  attic 
!itory.  In  short,  this  water  is  a  great  luxury,  and  is,  in  my  opinion, 
ot  incalculable  advantage  to  the  health,  as  it  certainly  is  to  the  con- 
venience and  comfort  of  the  community.   .    *    '  ...     '    , 

The  supply  of  cities  with  water  is  a  subject  of  great  unportance ; 
and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  inhabitants  of  other  places  in  the  United 
vStatcs  will  profit  by  the  laudable  example  set  them  by  the  citizens 
of  Philadelphia,  and  the  happy  effects  which  have  resulted  from  it. 
Tlic  power  of  the  steam-engine,  properly  applied,  can  send  water 
to  any  city,  anil  cities  are  generally  sufficiently  opulent  to  bear  the 
i'xpense.    All  that  is  wanting  is  a  proper  plan,  put  in  motion  by 

Id 


J^ 


TltAVFIJ    IM 


«•'(■  1 1 


■tit. 


tome  of  the  leading  men.  On  thin  branch  I  hare  to  notice  that  a 
great  suving  can  be  made  from  the  ap|)licution  of  the  forcing  pump, 
by  which  means  the  water  cun  be  conveyed  to  any  reasonable  height 
and  distnnce,  by  one  engine.  The  conductor  mast,  in  that  case, 
be  constructed  of  metallic  tubes,  which  can  be  made  of  any  diame- 
ter, according  to  the  supply  of  water  wanted ;  and  they  muitt  be 
funiiiihcd  with  valves,  to  prevent  the  reaction  of  the  water. 

I  shall  also  notice  in  this  place  that  filtration  of  the  water  is  a 
great  improvement,  and  it  can  be  easily  done,  to  any  extent  what- 
ever,  by  the  application  of  a  plan,  the  invention  of  a  very  ingeniutu 
mechanic  in  Scotland,  which  I  shall  here  communicate. 

I  shall  tlescribe  it  from  the  model  which  I  saw ;  the  application 
to  any  scale  is  easy.  The  model  consisted  of  a  cask,  in  which  ua» 
inserted  a  false  bottom,  about  three  inches  above  the  real  bottom  i 
the  fulsc  bottom  was  perforated  with  small  holes,  and  in  the  middle 
was  a  tube,  elevated  a  little  above  the  top  of  the  cask,  and  which 
formed  a  communication  through  the  false  bottom  to  the  spoce  be- 
low :  the  cask  was  filled  with  gravel  of  a  proper  kind  for  filtration. 
The  water  was  conveyed  through  the  tube  into  the  space  between 
the  two  bottoms,  where  it  deposited  the  greater  part  of  its  sediment, 
and  rising  upwards  through  the  gravel,  on  the  principle  of  a  spring, 
ran  over  the  top  of  the  cask,  pure  and  transparent.  The  effect  was 
as  complete  as  could  be  imagined.  The  water  that  he  used  was 
very  muddy,  and  was,  by  this  simple  contrivance,  rendered  perfect* 
ly  pure;  the  contrast  being  so  great,  that  when  it  was  exhibited  in 
the  different  states  in  clear  wine-glasses,  the  one,  to  use  the  invent- 
or's  expression,  was  like  punch,  the  other  like  pure  spirits. 

He  informed  me  that  the  gravel  answered  better  at  the  time  I 
viewed  it  than  it  did  at  first,  probably  in  consequence  of  the  mud 
already  deposited  attracting  that  in  the  water.  He  had  not  used  it 
long  enough  to  ascertain  the  period  at  which  it  would  get  too  much 
choakcd  up  by  the  mud  ;  but  he  had  a  contrivance  to  obviate  the 
effect  of  it,  equally  simple  and  efficacious  with  all  the  rest.  It  con- 
sisted in  opening  a  sto^vcock  below,  and  letting  the  water  filter 
downwards,  by  which  means  it  would  wash  all  the  sediment  along 
with  it. 

I  have  seen  different  filters,  some  of  them  upwards,  some  down- 
wards, and  some  lateral ;  but  I  never  saw  any  so  simple  and  so 
complete  as  this.  .' /*t       ^.^  „    ./  ^.^       v...  ,._    ■ 

The  best  mode  of  applying  the  plan  upon  a  large  scale  would,  I 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


135 


ry  ingeniotu 


think,  be  this:  to  have  a  reservoir  of  t'rom  10  to  '20  feet  deep,  uiui 
of  any  dimcoHions  that  niigiit  be  waiitetl  for  the  purpose  intended  ; 
have  it  lined  and  bedded  with  hewn  stone,  and  divided  into  three 
apartments;  let  one  of  these  receive  the  water,  where  it  will  deposite 
ttssedimffit;  from  thence  let  it  run  into  the  second,  containing  the 
filter;  and  fvom  thence  be  conveyed  into  the  third,  clear  for  use. 

It  is  to  in  observed  that  the  first  of  these  i^iurtuients  must  be  e- 
levHted  a  little  .ibove  the  second,  and  the  second  above  the  third ; 
and  the  elevation  may  be  great  or  small,  according  to  the  rate  at 
which  the  water  is  retjuired  to  circulate  from  the  one  to  the  other. 

From  the  Water-works  I  went,  accompanied  by  a  friend,  to  see 
the  State  Prison.  I  was  introduced  to  one  of  the  inspectors,  who 
was  al»to  oi>e  ol'  the  founders  of  the  institution.  He  accompanied 
us,  and  explained  the  whole  system  very  umch  to  my  satisfaction. 

This  benevolent  institution  owes  its  origin  to  the  enlightened  ci- 
tizens of  Philadelphia.  Its  object  is  to  receive  the  vicious,  and,  if 
possible,  to  reclaim  them  to  virtue ;  and  is  an  admirable  constrast 
to  the  sanguinary  punishments  of  old  governments,  who,  for  even 
pecuniary  offences,  send  them  off  to  the  other  world  to  be  reclaim- 
ed there.  This  institution  does  not  admit  offenders  till  after  con- 
viction, when  they  are  received  from  the  different  parts  of  the  state. 
It  is  hence  called  the  State-Prison.  When  a  criminal  is  received, 
his  name  is  put  upon  record,  or,  to  use  a  commercial  idea,  he  be- 
comes a  partner  in  the  concern,  and  an  account  is  accordingly  rais- 
ed for  him  in  the  books.  Inquiry  is  then  made  what  he  can  do; 
if  he  can  work  at  any  trade,  he  is  taken  to  the  apartment  where  that 
branch  is  carried  on,  and  has  his  task  assigned  him.  If  he  can  work 
at  no  trade  he  is  sent  to  saw  marble.  As  a  stimulus  to  industry, 
the  convicts  get  credit  in  the  books  for  the  proceeds  of  their  labour, 
and  are  debited  with  the  expense  of  their  board  and  clothing,  which 
however  is  not  very  c^^pensive,  as  every  thing  is  conducted  upon 
an  economical  plan,  and  when  tliey  are  released,  should  their  earn- 
ings be  more  thai)  tl^e  es^pence  of  maintenance,  the  balance  is  paid 
to  them,  '  ' 

Almost  every  trade  is  carried  on  in  the  prison ;  and  the  institu- 
tion is  so  organized  that  every  necessary  of  life  is  attended  to  by 
the  convictn  themselves ;  baking,  cooking,  scrubbing  the  rooms, 
and  so  on ;  and  every  thing  is  kept  remarkably  clean.  The  food 
i^  wl^oleiioi^e  and  nutritive,  consisting  of  Indian  meal,  bread,  and 
meat^  The  drinji:  is  molasses  and  water ;  and  no  spirituous  liquors 
are  admitted  within  the  walls  of  the  prison. 


124 


TnAVELS    IN 


i 


Tliere  is  a  separate  apartment  tor  the  reception  of  female  con- 
victs, wliere  the  various  parts  of  female  labour  are  carried  on,  and 
it  is  otherwise  under  the  same  system  of  management  as  that  tbi 
the  males. 

I  visite<i  every  apartment,  and  was  highly  pleased  with  the  order 
and  economy  of  the  whole  establishment.  In  the  course  of  oin- vi- 
sit, one  of  the  convicts  came  up  to  our  conductor,  and  aolicitcd 
very  strongly  for  his  recommendation  in  his  favour.  I^nt-n  mak- 
ing enquiry  what  he  meant  by  this,  I  was  informed,  that,  as  the  ob- 
ject is  purely  to  protect  society  from  the  inroads  of  the  vicious,  and 
to  reclaim  the  vicious  to  civilized  lite,  the  governor  has  the  power 
ofmitigating  the  punishment,  and  of  pardoning  ihe  offenders,  upon 
receiving  satisfactory  evidence  that  the  applicant  is  fit  for  civil  so- 
ciety ;  and  the  best  evidence  being  the  opinion  of  the  inspectoi-s 
of  the  prison,  the  criminals  are,  of  course,  anxious  to  procure  it  in 
their  favouk'.  This  is  a  very  happy  stimulus  to  good  behaviour. 
Our  conductor  observed  that.it  was  a  very  sacred  trust,  and  to  be 
used  with  great  caution.  He  did  not  think  this  chap  was  yet  ripe 
for  a  release, — he  must  wait  a  little.       <         «  -       -    ^'  >?  * 

The  whole  institution  is  under  the  direction  of  competent  man- 
agers; and,  to  insure  proper  discipline,  there  is  a  gradation  of 
punishments  within  the  prison,  consisting  chiefly  of  solitary  con- 
finement in  cells. 

I  notice  this  subject  particularly,  because  it  is,  so  far  as  I  know, 
of  pure  American  origin,  and  is  happily  adapted  to  the  genius  ut 
the  government  of  the  country,  mild,  just,  and  merciful.  Some  of 
the  other  states  already  noticed,  have  imitated  the  example  of  Penn- 
sylvania ;  and  I  was  informed  that  the  plan  was  likely  to  begone, 
rally  adopted  thrc  it  the  Union. 

*  We  next  visited  t.ie  Library,  the  account  of  which  I  shall  trans- 
cribe from  the  Continuation  of  the  Life  of  Dr.  Franklin. 
-  "  The  promotion  of  literature  had  been  little  attended  to  in  Penn- 
sylvania. Most  of  the  inhabitants  wev(  too  much  immersed  in  bu- 
siness to  think  of  scientific  pursuits ;  and  those  few  whose  inclina- 
tions led  them  to  study,  found  it  difficult  to  gratify  them,  from  the 
want  of  sufficiently  large  libraries.  In  such  circumstances  the  estab- 
lishiiient  of  a  public  library  was  an  important  event.  This  was  first 
set  on  foot  by  Franklin,  about  the  year  1731.  Fifty  persons  sub- 
seribeil  forty  shillings  each,  and  agreed  to  pay  ten  shillings  annu* 
ally.    Tlic  number  increased,  and,  in  1742,    the  company  was 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


125 


incoriwrntetl  by  the  name  of  *  The  Library  Company  of  Phila- 
delphia.' Several  other  companies  were  formed  in  this  city,  in 
imitation  of  it;  and  these  were  all,  at  length,  united  with  the 
Library  Company  of  Philadelphia,  which  thus  received  a  con- 
siderable accession  of  books  and  property.  It  now  contains  about 
8000  volumes  on  all  subjects,  a  philosophical  apparatus,  and  a 
irood  beginning  towards  a  collection  of  natural  and  artificial  cu- 
riosities, besides  landed  property  of  considerable  value.  The  com- 
pany bave  lately  built  an  elegant  house  in  Fifth-street,  in  the 
front  of  which  will  be  a  marble  statue  of  their  founder,  Benja- 
min Franklin. 

"  This  institution  was  greatly  encouraged  by  the  friends  of 
literature  in  America  and  in  Great  Britain.  The  Penn  family 
distinguished  themselves  by  their  donations. — Among  the  earliest 
friends  of  this  institution  must  be  mentioned  the  late  Peter  Col- 
linson,  the  friend  and  correspondent  of  Dr.  Franklin.  He  not 
only  made  considerable  presents  himself,  and  obtained  many 
others  from  his  friends,  but  voluntarily  undertook  to  manage  the 
business  of  the  company  in  London,  recommending  books,  pur- 
chasing and  shipping  them.  His  extensive  knowledge,  and  zeal 
for  the  promotion  of  science,  enabled  him  to  execute  this  impor- 
tant trust  with  the  greatest  advantage ;  and  he  continued  to  per- 
form these  services  for  more  than  30  years,  and  uniformly  refused 
to  accept  of  any  compensation.  During  this  time,  he  communi- 
cated to  the  directors  every  information  relative  to  improvements 
and  discoveries  in  art  J,  agriculture,  and  philosophy.  •-,1 

"  The  beneficial  influence  of  this  institution  was  soon  evident 
The  cheapness  of  the  terms  rendered  it  accessible  to  every  one. 
Its  advantages  were  not  confined  to  the  opulent.  The  citizens  in 
the  middle  and  lower  walks  of  life  were  equally  partakers  of  them. 
Hence  a  degree  of  information  was  extended  among  all  classes  of 
the  people,  which  is  very  unusual  in  other  places.  The  example 
was  soon  followed.  Libraries  were  established  in  various  places, 
and  they  are  now  become  very  numerous  in  the  United  States, 
particularly  in  Pennsylvania.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  they  will  be 
still  more  widely  extended,  and  that  information  will  be  every 
where  increased.  This  will  be  the  best  security  for  maintaining 
our  liberties.  A  nation  of  well-informed  men,  who  have  been 
taught  to  know  and  prize  the  rights  which  God  has  given  them, 
c.tunot  be  enslaved.     It  is  in  the  regions  of  ignorance  that  tyranny 


IS6 


TRAVELC   IN 


reigns.  It  flies  before  the  light  of  science.  Let  the  citizens  of 
America^  then,  encourage  institutions  calculated  to  diffuse  know. 
ledge  amongst  the  people ;  and  among  these,  public  libraries 
are  not  the  least  important." 

The  library  has  been  since  removed  to  the  building  alluded  to 
in  the  above  extract  It  is  elegant  and  commodious,  and  has  a 
statue  of  Franklin  in  firont,  the  donation  of  the  late  Mr.  Bing* 
bam.  The  libraiy  now  consists  of  more  than  14,000  volumes,  in 
all  the  various  departments  of  literature.  It  is  divided  into  shares 
of  40  dollars  each;  but  the  number  is  unlimited.  The  subscriber} 
are  at  present  upwards  of  500.  Besides  the  purchase  of  the  share, 
each  subscriber  pays  two  dollars  annually,  to  the  support  of  the 
institution. 

The  library  is  open  every  day,  except  Sunday,  from  2  o  clock 
to  sunset,  and  the  subscribers  may  either  read  in  the  library,  or 
be  accommodated  with  books  to  read  in  their  houses.  The  rule 
relative  to  strangers  and  non-subscribers  is  very  liberal.  They 
may  have  the  use  of  the  books  in  the  library,  while  it  is  open, 
free  of  expense,  or,  on  depositing  the  value,  may  borrow  books 
and  peruse  them  at  home,  on  paying  a  small  sum  for  the  use  of 

them.     r.-.ii.  :;■*'.,..'•-   ;cf  ,     t       -   : 

-  ■  I  may  take  occasion  to  remark  here  that  I  consider  40  dollars 
pf  entry  tp  a  library  too  high,  and  two  dollars  of  annual  subscrip. 
tion  too  low.  The  great  object  of  a  library  is  to  disseminate 
knowledge.  To  secure  that  object,  the  library  should  be  within 
the  reach  of  every  member  of  the  community.  But  every  one 
(iannot  afford  to  give  40  dollars  at  once,  while  the  greater  part 
of  those  who  wish  to  read  can  afford  more  than  two  dollars  a  year. 
The  class  of  people  to  whom  an  institution  of  this  kind  is  the  most 
valuable  is  young  men  entering  into  the  world,  many  of  whora 
could  not,  or  would  pot  willingly,  advance  40  dollars,  but  who 
would  cheerfully  give  four  or  five  dollars  a  year.  Would  it  not 
be  a  wise  regulation  to  accommodate  such  ? 
V  The  most  floarishing  library,  in  point  of  funds,  that  I  have 
heard  of,  is  one  in  London,  where  the  entry  is  one  guinea,  and 
the  annual  subscription  is  the  same.  It  is  entirely  public,  unclog- 
ged  with  any  idea  of  tt^V*  or  shares.  The  subscribers  are  above 
1000,  and  the  income  ia,  of  course,  ^bove  1000  guineas  a  year. 
The  Oku^ow  public  librfiry  is  on  s  simUw  plan,  but  with  more 


FBMNSYLVANIA.  187 

limited  ^ands,  and  is  the  most  thriving  institution  of  the  kind 

I  (hgt  has  ever  come  under  my  observation.* 

From  the  library  we  passed  to  Peale's  Museum,  which  is  a  very 

I  excellent  collection,  principally  of  subjects  in  natural  history, 
and  does  honour  to  the  ingenuity  and  taste  of  the  proprietor. 
Among  other  curiosities  it  contains  an  entire  skeleton  of  the 
mammoth,  well  worth  the  attention  of  the  naturalist.  c: 

I  took  a  walk  to  the  Schuylkill  bridge,   which  is  an  el^ant 

latructure,  consisting  of  three  arches,  built  of  wood,  supported  by 
strong  stone  piers,  and  covered  in  on  the  top.  The  length  of  the 
bridge  is  550  feet,  besides  the  abutments  and  wing  walls,  which 
are  750  more.  The  span  of  the  middle  arch  is  198  feet,  that  of 
(he  other  two  150  each.  It  is  42  feet  wide.  The  footways  on 
each  side  occupy  five  feet  each,  and  the  carriage-way,  which  is  di« 

ivided  into  two  parts,  S2.  The  bridge,  which  was  six  years  in  build- 

I  ing,  was  finished  last  year,  and  the  expence  was  235,000  dollars. 
September  28.     Having  visited   every  thing  I   wished  to  aee 

[in  the  city,  I  was  invited  by  a  party  of  friends  to  take  a  jaunt  in 
the  country.  We  crossed  Schuylkill  by  the  foresaid  bridge,  and 
travelled  four  or  five  miles,  to  see  a  fiax  spinning-mill,  belonging 
to  a  gentleman  from  Dundee.  The  mill  was  not  at  work,  but 
we  were  informed  that  the  business  was  doing  very  well ;  the  pro- 
duce was  mostly  twine.  Being  joined  by  the  Dundee  manufac- 
turer, we  passed  on  to  the  Falls  of  Schuylkill,  where,  at  a  very 
pleasant  situation  on  its  banks,  we  stopped  for  dinner. 

The  Schuylkill  river  rises  in  the  mountains,  about  120  miles 
I  north-west  of  Philadelphia,  and  is  navigable  from  Reading  down- 
I  wards  to  the  upper  falls,  three  miles  above  where  we  stopped. 
The  tide  rises  to  the  lower  falls,  where  the  river  is  about  150 
yards  broad.      The  falls  are  much  broken  by  huge  masses  of 
I  stone,  with  which  the  bed  and  banks  of  the  river  abound.     The 
I  banks  are  highly  romantic,  and  are  ornamented  with  many  ele- 
gant country  seats. 

While  dinner  was  preparing  we  had  a  dish  of  politics,  in  which 

I  frequent  appeals  were  made  to  me ;    but  I  declined  taking  any 

{ share  in  the  argument,    for  I  did  not  fiiUy  agree  with  either 

I  party.    Indeed  I  saw  pretty  plainly  that  self-intere^  was  at  the 

bottom  of  it,  and  that  the  party  names  they  assumed  were  merely 


.  *  Sm  App«odUx,  No.  V. 


128  TRAVELS   IN 

Other  terms  for  importeis  and  maniifacturers,  who  conceiving  that 
their  interests  were  opposed  to  each  other,  blamed  the  government 
of  the  United  States — ^the  one  party  for  doing  too  much  in  sup- 
port of  domestic  manufactures,  and  the  other  for  doing  too  little. 
But  all  was  discussed  in  good  humour.       '"^   •  ^  ;.♦,..  i 

After  dinner  we  returned,  through  a  pleasant,  well-cultivatetl 
country,  by  an  excellent  turnpike  road,  and  in  our  way  stopped 
at  Harrowgate,  where  there  is  a  medicinal  spring,  which  is  a 
good  deal  frequented  in  the  summer  season.  We  returned  to  the 
city  in  tlie  evening.  The  day  was  clear  and  pleasant,  and  the  air 
cool  and  healthy.      .....  . 


I'r*  '-fVK  V 


:■-  H; 


to  J/ 


f! 


'   CHAPTER  XXVI. 

V?':  .«?»'V    Pentisi/lvania. 

This  fine  state  is  situated  between  39°  43'  and  42°  north  la- 
titude, and  S"  20'  east,  and  3°  30'  west  longitude.  It  is  320 
miles  long,  from  east  to  west,  and  i  62  miles  broad ;  and  contains 
49,390  square  miles,  being  31,609,G00  acres. 

The  face  of  the  country  is  remarkably  diversified.  The  south- 
east part,  to  the  distance  of  about  60  or  70  miles  from  Philadel- 
phia, is  an  undulating  country,  swelling  in  some  places  into  con- 
siderable hills ;  but  it  is  not  mountainous.  The  mountainous  re- 
gion  then  commences,  and  extends  across  the  country  about  120 
miles.  The  mountains  are  generally  in  long  chains,  running 
north-east  and  south-west.  Between  the  chains,  the  country  'u 
rough  and  hilly,  but  there  are  many  fine  valleys,  and  the  whole 
abounds  with  picturesque  scenery.  To  the  north  and  west  of  tlie 
mountains,  the  country  is  elevated,  abounding  with  hills,  vallcvs 
and  rich  scenery;  which  continue  about  120  miles,  to  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  state. 

The  country  is  remarkably  well  watered.  Lake  Erie  is  situated 
on  the  north-west,  and  the  Delaware  bay  on  the  south-east,  bv 
both  of  which  there  arc  fine  outlets,  the  one  affording  direct  and 
speedy  communication  with  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  the  other  com- 
municating with  it  by  the  more  circuitous  course  of  the  river  ISt. 
Lawrence;  while  it  is  a  link  in  the  chain  ofaninliind  navigation. 
extending  through  the  lakes  upwards*  of  a  thousand  miles.    To 


i»ENNSYLVANIA. 


129 


the  soiith-wesl,  the  state  communicates  with  the  Ohio,  having  an 
outlet  through  the  Mississippi,  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico;  and 
from  the  middle  there  is  an  outlet  through  the  Susquehannah  to 
the  Chesapeak  bay. 

The  rivers  Delaware  and  Schuylkill  have  been  already  men- 
tioned. The  most  important  of  the  others  I  shall  notice  in  theix 
order  from  east  to  west. 

The  Lehigh  rises  among  the  mountains,  between  the  Delaware 
and  Susquehannah,  and  running  a  very  crooked  passage,  emer- 
ges from  the  mountains  abont  50  miles  from  its  source,  and  from 
thence  runs  through  a  fine  country  SO  miles,  during  which  it  is 
navigable,  to  Easton,  where  it  falls  into  the  Delaware. 

The  Susquehannah  is  a  noble  river,  and  appears  on  the  map  like 
a  large  crooked  tree,  with  numerous  branches.     The  head  waters 
of  the  eastern  branch  are  numerous,  and  rise  in  the  state  of  New 
York,  not  far  from  the  waters  of  the  Mohawk  river.     Passing  in- 
to the  state  of  Pennsylvania,  it  makes  a  remarkable  bend,  called 
appropriately  the  Big  Bend ;  from  thence  it  makes  a  stretch  into 
New  York,  and  passing  to  the  westward,  about  40  miles,  turns 
again  to  the  southward,  and  passes  into  the  state  of  Pennsylvania, 
where  it  forms  a  junction  with  the  Tioga  river  at  Tioga  point. 
It  then  runs  a  south-east  course,  about  70  miles ;  when  making  a 
sudden  bend,  at  a  right  angle,  it  runs  a  south-west  course,  about 
80  miles,  and  unites  with  the  western  branch,  at  Northumber- 
land.    The   river  is   now  nearly  half  a    mile  broad,    and  flows 
through  the  mountains,    nearly  a  south  course  of  40  milws,    to 
where  it  receives  the  Junita  river.     From  thence  it  makes  a  con- 
siderable bend  to  the  eastward,  and  running  about  10  miles,    it 
emerges  from  the  mounta,ins,  above   Harrisbarg;    and  keeps  a 
iK)utk-east  course  about  80  miles,  when  it  falls  into  the  Chesa- 
peak bay. 

The  Tioga  river  has  its  head  waters  pairtly  in  Pennsylvania,  and 
partly  in  New  York,  where  some  of  the  streams  a{^roach  within 
a  few  miles  of  the  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  These  all  unit« 
in  New  York  state,  towards  the  Painted  Post,  and  run  a  south- 
east coarse  of  nearly  40  miles,  to  the  junction  with  the  Susqus* 
hannah. 

The  western  branch  of  the  Susquehannah  is  formed  by  many 
•treams,  beyond  the  Allegany  mountains,  bome  of  them  approaching 
within  a  few  miles  of  the  waters,  of  the  St  Lawrcncy^  «nd  othm 

17 


130 


TENNSYLVANIA. 


■  4- 


within  a  few  miles  of  the  waters  of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi,  and 
runs  a  very  circuitous  course,  upwards  of  200  miles*  principally 
among  the  mountains,  to  its  junction  with  the  east  branch. 

The  Junita  river  rises  on  the  Allegany  mountains,  near  tlie 
head  waters  of  the  Conemaugh,  a  branch  of  the  Ohio,  and  pass- 
ing through  the  mountains  to  the  eastward,  by  a  very  serpentiDe 
course,  it  falls  into  the  Susquchannah  as  aforesaid,  its  length  be- 
ing nearly  200  miles. 

The  length  of  the  Susquehannah,  from  the  Chesapeak  bay  to 
the  head  of  the  eastern  branch,  is  upwards  of  450  miles ;  and  the 
whole  river,  including  its  branches,  waters  a  country  nearly  200 
miles  square.  It  is  navigable  for  large  vessels  only  a  few  miles, 
iVnd  there  are  many  islands,  rocks,  and  falls,  which  obstruct  th« 
navigation  for  boats ;  but  it  is  presumed  that  these  can  be  remov- 
ed, and  that,  by  the  aid  of  some  locks  and  canals,  it  can  be  rm. 
dered  navigable,  almost  to  the  source  of  the  eastern  branch.  The 
western  branch  is  navigable,  for  boats,  nearly  150  miles,  and  the 
Junita  river  nearly  120.  From  this  short  account,  the  impor- 
tance of  improving  the  navigation  of  this  fine  river  will  be  readily 
inferred. 

The  Allegany  River  rises  on  the  highest  land  in  the  state,  to 
the  westward  of  the  mountains,  within  a  tew  miles  of  the  head 
waters  of  the  Genesee  River,  and  the  western  branch  of  the  Sus- 
quehannah. It  is  here  called  Oswaya  Creek,  and  runs  a  north- 
west course  into  the  state  of  New  York,  and,  passing  again  into 
the  state  of  Pennsylvannia,  it  receives  the  waters  of  Conewongo 
Creek  and  Chataughque  Lake.  From  thence  it  runs  a  winding 
course,  but  generally  south-west,  to  Franklin,  where  it  receives 
the  waters  of  French  Creek.  From  thence  it  runs  a  circuitous 
course  about  100  miles,  receiving  in  its  progress  many  tributary 
streams,  particularly  Toby's  Creek  and  Kishkemanetas  River, 
and  at  Pittsburg  forms  a  junction  with  the  Monongahela,  which 
together  constitute  the  Ohio.      ;  ^,.,    ,  ^..  ,.;,*   .i^  .  ..;    -. 

The  Allegany  is  a  navigable  river,  and  the  navigation  is  con- 
tinued through  French  Creek  to  Waterford,  from  when  ce  there 
is  a  portage  of  only  14-  miles  to  Lake  Firie.  The  navigation  is 
extended  into  the  country  20  or  25  miles,  by  the  Kishkemanetas 
River. 

The  Monongahela  rises  in  Virginia,  n  ear  the  Laurel  mountainSj 
«rfd|  runaiDg  by  a  meandering  course  about  70  miles,  passes  into 


« tv« 


ll 


PENNSVLVANI4. 


131 


this  state;  soon  after  which  it  receives  the  waters  of  Cheat  River. 
From  thence  it  continues,  by  a  serpentine  course,  but  nearly  in  a 
northern  direction,  about  60  miles,  where  it  forms  a  junction  with 
Yoxhiogeni,  and  thence  runs  north-west  about  14  miles  to  Pitts- 
burg. It  is  navigable  in  large  boats  to  Brownsville  and  Mor- 
gantown,  100  miles  from  its  mouth;  and  from  thence  by  snjall 
boats  40  miles  farther.  The  western  branch  is  also  navigable  hi 
hiirh  water. 

The  Yoxhiogeni  rises  in  Maryland,  and  runs  a  course  east  of 
north,  about  40  miles,  before  it  passes  into  this  state.  From 
thence  it  runs  a  north-west  course,  and,  passing  the  Laurel  Hill 
and  Chesnut  Ridge,  forms  the  junction  with  the  Monongahela 
above  mentioned ;  its  whole  length  being  about  100  miles. 

This  state  is  well  supplied  with  iron  ore,  and  coal  abounds  in 
many  places,  particularly  in  the  western  country.  Slate  is  found 
in  several  places ;  and  marble  and  freestone,  of  an  excellent  quali- 
ty, are  found  in  great  abundance.  Limestone  is  also  in  great 
plenty,  and  some  copper  and  lead  have  been  found,  but  not  in 
sufficient  quantity  to  be  wrought.  There  are  many  mineral 
springs  in  the  state.  ''  '       •  . 

The  soil  to  the  east  of  the  mountains  is  generally  good,  and 
a  considerable  part  of  it  is  bedded  on  limestone.  Among  the 
mountains,  the  land  is  rough,  and  much  of  it  poor ;  but  there  are 
a  great  many  rich  and  fertile  valleys.  To  the  west  of  the  moun- 
tains, the  soil  is  generally  excellent. 

The  climate  is  very  various.  On  the  east  side  of  the  Allegany 
mountains  it  is  pretty  similar  to  Jersey,  already  described.  It  is, 
in  common  with  the  other  countries  east  of  the  mountains,  sub- 
ject to  great  and  sudden  changes ;  but  it  is  considered  more  set- 
tled than  immediately  on  the  sea^board,  and  is  perfectly  healthy. 
The  winter  commences  about  the  20th  of  December,  and  the 
spring  sets  in  about  two  weeks,  earlier  than  at  New  York.  A- 
mong  the  mountains  there  is  a  sharp  atmo!»phere,  with  a  clear^ 
settled  sky.  There  is  frost  almost  every  month  in  the  year  in 
some  places  ;  and  the  extremes  of  heat  and  cold  arc  considerable. 
The  winters  may  be  reckoned  a  month  longer  than  to  the  east- 
ward. The  whole  region  is  very  healthy. — The  country  beyond 
the  mountains  has  a  temperate  climate,  with  a  considerable  por- 
tion of  cloudy  weather;  and  the  winters  art  more  humid  and  mild 
than  on  the  Atlantic.      "  '.'    «^5 


:j'ii 


Jp-     'H   r-i 


\3t  PENNSYLVANIA. 

The  state  'vna  first  settled  by  the  Swedes  and  Finlandcrn  in 
1627}  and  aftervards  by  the  illustrious  Willian  Penn,  in  1681 ; 
and  from  the  liberal  principles  which  he  adopted,  and  the  en< 
couragement  held  out  to  settlers  of  all  denominations,  the  country 
experienced  a  rapid  progress.  The  state  took  an  active  part  in 
the  revolutionary  war,  during  great  part  of  which  Philadelphia 
was  the  seat  of  congress.  A  state  constitution  was  framed  at  an 
early  period  of  the  war ;  but  a  new  one  was  adopted  in  1 790. 
The  state  now  sends  two  senators  and  eighteen  representatives  to 
congress. 

Pennsylvania  is  divided  into  37  counties,  and  upwards  of  500 
townships.  The  population,  in  1800,  was  602,365,  including 
]  150  slaves,  being  about  12  persons  to  the  square  mile. 

The  state  has  made  rapid  progress  in  national  improvements, 
and  abounds  in  all  the  conveniences,  and  many  of  the  luxuries  of 
life.  The  accumulation  of  property  since  the  close  of  the  war  is 
Tery  great;  and,  exclusive  of  Philadelphia,  the  state  contains  12  I 
towns,  in  which  there  are  from  1 000  to  4500  inhabitants,  amopg 
which  Lancaster,  York,  Reading,  Carlisle,  and  Pittsburg  are 
the  most  conspicuQus.  Besides  these,  there  are  upwards  of 
90  villages,  each  containing  from  100  to  1000  inhabitants,  and 
the  greater  part,  if  not  the  whole  of  those  towns  and  villages  are 
increasing  in  wealth  and  population.  The  farm  houses  are  most-^ 
)y  comfortable,  many  of  them  elegant,  and  there  are  fine  barns 
and  other  buildings.  The  state  is  weU  improved  by  turnpike  roads 
and  bridges  ;  and  lately  a  great  degree  of  attention  has  been  paid 
to  canals.     Many  turnpike  and  canal  companies  have  been  formed. 

The  agriculture  of  the  state  has  progressed  rapidly,  and,  is  in  an 
advanced  state.  The  staple  article  is  wheat,  of  which  the  quanti* 
ty  manufactured  into  flour  annually  is  immense.  It  is  reckoned 
the  best  in  the  United  States,  and  surpassed  by  none  in  the 
world.  The  mountainous  district  is  pretty  much  applied  to 
raising  stock.  The  breed  of  horses  is  reckoned  the  best  in  the 
United  States.  Sheep  have  of  late  greatly  increased,  and  thrive 
remarkably  well.  All  the  grains,  grasses,  and  roots  common  to 
the  other  states  thrive  here.  The  stock  of  fruit,  particularly 
peaches,  is  excellent;  and  some  progress  has  of  late  been  made 
in  tlie  cultivation  of  the  vine. 

Pennsylvania  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  greatest  manufacturing 
states  in  the  Union.  Domestic  manufactures  are  general  throughout 


VJEW  of  the  roVXTMr 

round 
PITTSBUH6 


»>    \ 


It    '.; 


Hi^ 


■y  I 


■'*..«■ 


-;**■ 


^'Ji'  I 


■:  r^lB* 


■.^^ 


?=■»«'?' 


-v»»' 


the  State; 
of  which 
nacca,  Ih 
Of  wood 
or  leiith 
n  variety 
other  nrf 
sugar,    n 

The  e: 
flaxseed, 
of  export 
dollars  w 
to  Britain 
states.  1 
goods;  w 
factures  fi 
and  18  yes 
dollars  an 
whence  W( 
the  impor 

The  sti 
ceding  re 
of  ease  an 
ous.  The 
yet  seen  a 
to  Europe 

The  ciy 
senate  and 
four  years, 
executive 
the  people 
declares,  * 
that  idl  po 
tural  and  i 
tates  of  th( 
pelled  to  I 
maintain  ai 
ty  can,  in  i 
of  coDsciei 
to  any  rel^ 


FBNIVSTLVANIA.  133 

the  state;  but  there  are  many  manufacturers  on  a  large  scale,  some 
of  which  may  be  enumerated.  Of  iron  there  are  above  thirty  fur- 
naces, besides  numerous  forges,  slitting  ohUh,  and  trip  hammerH. 
Of  wood,  all  sorts  of  furniture,  and  implements  of  husbandry. 
Of  leather,  boots,  shoes,  saddles,  bridles,  harness,  &c.  Of  wool, 
A  variety  of  cloths,  stockings,  and  hats.  Together  with  a  variety  of 
other  articles,  such  as  molt  liquors,  spirits,  glass,  ashes,  maple- 
sugar,    musquets,    powder,  shot,  balls,  cannon,  bells,  &c.  &c. 

The  exports  consist  principally  of  grain,  flour,  iron  utensils, 
flaxseed,  soap  and  candles,  lumber,  becij  pork,  &c.  The  amount 
of  exports,  in  1805,  was  13,762,252  dollars,  of  which  4,365,240 
dollars  was  domestic  produce.  The  principal  articles  of  export 
to  Britain  are  grain  and  flour,  and  some  cotton  from  the  southern 
states.  The  imports  consist  of  East  and  West  India  and  China 
goods ;  wine,  gin,  &c.  from  the  continent  of  Europe ;  aytl  manu- 
factures from  Britain ;  of  which  the  quantity  imported  is  immense, 
and  is  yearly  increasing.  The  value  of  imports  is  about  12,000,000 
dollars  annually,  of  which  those  from  Britain  are  a  full  half;  from 
whence  we  may  infer  the  utility  of  the  trade  to  both  countries,  and 
the  importance  of  a  good  understanding  between  them. 

The  state  of  society  may  be  pretty  much  inferred  from  the  pre- 
ceding remarks.  The  inhabitants  have  every  external  appearance 
of  ease  and  affluence,  and  they  are  remarkably  civil  and  industri- 
ous. There  are  no  beggars  to  be  seen  here.  Indeed,  I  have  not 
^ct  seen  any  in  the  United  States,  which  is  a  remarkable  contrast 
to  Europe,  and  bears  testimony  to  the  prosperity  of  the  country., 
The  civil  government  is  vested  in  a  legislature,  consisting  of  a 
senate  and  house  of  representatives.  The  senators  are  chos'^n  for 
four  years,  and  the  representatives  annually,  by  the  people.  The 
executive  authority  is  vested  in  a  governor,  who  is  also  elected  by 
the  people,  and  holds  his  office  for  three  years.  The  constitution 
declares,  "  That  all  men  are  born  equally  free  and  independent ; — 
that  all  power  is  inherent  in  the  people  ;-«-that  all  men  have  a  na- 
tural and  indefeasible  right  to  worship  God  according  to  the  dic- 
tates of  their  own  consciences,  and  no  man  can  of  right  be  com- 
pelled to  attend,  erect,  or  support  any  place  of  worship,  or  to 
maintain  any  ministry  against  his  consent ; — that  no  human  authori- 
ty can,  in  any  case  >irhatever,  controul  or  interfere  with  the  rights 
of  conscience,  and  that  no  preference  shall  ever  be  given,  by  law, 
to  any  religious  establishmeiit,  or  modes  of  worship ; — ^that  el«q^ 


*i 


134  TRAVELS    IN     ' 

tioni  shall  be  free  and  equnl ; — that  trial  by  jury  shall  be  inviolate  ;— 
that  no  law  shall  ever  be  made  to  restrain  the  liberty  of  the  press; 
— that  the  people  shall  be  secure  against  all  unwarrantable  scurc-hcii, 
and  excessive  bail  shall  not  be  required ; — that  the  lej^islaturc  shnll 
provide  by  law  for  the  establishment  of  schools  throughout  the 
state,  in  such  a  manner  as  the  poor  may  be  taught  gratis ; — the 
arts  and  sciences  shall  be  promoted."      -<>  •»  ^^    •»    »^         .   .     , 


'iJv(     (It 


>1 


I ,  '< 


•  .    :'^;' CHAPTER  XXVII. 

•    '  •    Delaxmre  riveVf — Newcastle.  ' 

^^  ...  >,■' 

Tuesday,    September  30.     Having  engagetl  a  passage  on 

board  a  packet-boat  bound  to  Newcastle,  40  miles  below  this  citj, 

I  went  on   board  this  morning  at  7  o'clock.      The  packet  was 

called  the  Hope,  and  was  one  of  a  line  of  boats  that  run  between 

Philadelphia  and  Newcastle ;  from  thence  there  is  a  communication 

by  stages  across  the  state  of  Delaware    to  the  Chesapeuk   bay, 

where   another  line  of   boats,    connected  with  this,  proceeds  to 

Baltimore :    the   whole  called,    appropriately.    Land  and  Water 

Stages.     The  distance  by  this  route  is  about  120  miles,  and  the  fare, 

including  bpard,  is  about  three  dollars. 

We  set  sail  with  a  light  wind,  and  almost  right  against  us ;  but 
the  tide  was  in  our  favour,  and  we  made  tolerable  progress  till 
we  reached  six  miles  below  Philadelphia,  where  we  got  aground 
on  a  place  called  the  Horse-Shoes  where  we  lay  nearly  two  hours. 
After  getting  off,  we  sailed  about  four  miles,  when  we  were  obliged 
to  come  to  anchor,  the  wind  and  tide  being  both  against  us.  Hav- 
ing stopped  here  till  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  we  weighed  an- 
chor, and  sailed  eight  or  ten  npiilos ;  but  the  wind  was  rigj^t  ahead, 
and  had  increased  too  much  to  beat  down,  so  we  were  obliged 
again  to  come  to  anchor.  We  once  more  set  sail  at  1 1  o'clock  at 
night,  and  next  morning  at  5  o'clock,  we  reached  Newcastle. 

The  river  at  Philadelphia  is  about  a  mile  broad,  and  it  widens 
as  you  proceed  downwards.  At  I^ewcastle  it  is  two  miles  broad; 
from  thence  it  spreads  oyt  into  the  Delaware  baj.  The  banks  of 
the  river  are  level,  and  covered  witl^  wood ;  and  the  lands  rise  to  a 
considerable  height  at  a  distance,  affording  in  some  places  pretty 
good  views.     The  only  rivers  of  note  that  join  th^  Delaware  be* 


DSLAWAni.  13ft 

twcen  Philttdclphiu  and  Newcastle,  are  the  Schuylkill  snd  Bran- 
(lywiiie  creek.  The  post-road  to  Bultiniore  runs  along  the  western 
bank,  and  passes  through  Derby  und  Chester  in  Pennsylvania,  and 
Wihniiigton  in  the  state  of  Delaware;  which  last  is  a  large  town, 
and  has  a  very  pretty  appearance  when  viewed  from  the  river. 
Oil  the  east  side,  in  Jersey,  are  Gloucester,  Woodbury,  and 
Swt'dciborough. 

Newcastle,  where  we  stopped,  is  a  small  town  containing  about 
200  houses,  some  of  them  handsome.  It  carries  on  a  considerable 
trade,  principally  in  wheat.  ,  „_  >  ;•  ^  .    ,     .  .    ,„ 

October  1st.  Having  taken  an  early  breakfast,  at  a  very  good 
tavern,  we  set  out  in  the  stage  for  the  head  of  Elk  river.  The 
road  passes  13  miles  through  the  state  of  Delaware,  and  11  miles 
through  Maryland  ;  and  I  found  the  whole  distance  a  perfect  level, . 
I  without  a  single  object  to  excite  attention,  or  gratify  the  imagina- 
tion. The  road  was  very  bad,  the  lands  alternately  sandy  and 
marshy ;  and  the  people  had  a  sallow  sickly  colour :  the  whole  in- , 
I  (jicating  a  country  somewhat  similar  to  the  low  lands  of  Carolina 
and  Georgia.  But  I  was  informed  that  this  was  a  sort  of  bye-road, 
which  had  been  taken  by  this  line  of  stages,  and  that  it  led  through 
tlie  very  worst  part  of  the  country.  ,       • 


iY^ 


tr-' 


t  x-vf 


CHAPTER  XXVI n. 

Delaware. 


1  HE  state  of  Delaware  is  situated  between  38»  29'  and  39o  47' 
north  latitude,  and  1°  15'  and  1°56'  east  longitude.     Its  greatest 
llcngth  is  100  miles,  and  greatest  breadth  about  37;  its  area  being 
[about  2200  square  miles,  or  about  1,408,000  acres. 

The  face  of  a  great  part  of  the  country  is  level,  abounding  with 
Iswamps  and  stagnant  water ;  but  toward  the  northern  part  it  is 
lore  elevated,  and  near  its  extremity  there  is  a  considerable  chain 
|of  hiUs. 

There  are  numerous  creeks  in  the  state,  but  no  rivers  of  conse^ 
quence.    The  principal  one  is  Brandywine  creek,  which  falls  into 
the  Delaware  at  Wilmington,    mid  on  which  there  are  numerous 
lills  and  manufactories. 

The  state  is  well  supplied  with  iron,  but  I  did  hear  of  any  other 
tiineral. 


5i.'ifa  (la  i^ 


I? 


!•  .il-^'ilV/ 


136  DBLAWAHE. 

The  soil,  in  the  soothern  part,  is  low  atid  oandy,  and  entirely 
free  of  stones ;  in  the  northern  part,  it  is  more  diversified,  and 
mixed  with  clay  and  loam. 

The  climate  partakes  of  the  configuration  of  the  country.    The 
Wuthem  part  has  a  humid  atmosphere,  often  foggy  and  unwho]e<, 
some ;  but  is  mild  and  temj^ierate  in  winter.    The  northern  part  ii 
agreeable  and  healthy. 

The  settlement  of  this  state  was  coeval  with  that  of  Pennsyl. 
vania.  It  took  an  active  part  in  the  revolution,  and  sent  two  dele- 
gates to  the  first  congress.  The  state  constitution  was  adopted  in 
1792.  It  now  sends  two  senators  and  one  representative  to  congressi. 

Delaware  is  divided  into  three  counties  and  24>  districts,  culled 
hundreds.  The  population,  in  1800,  was  64,273,  including  6143 
slaves ;  being  about  29  to  the  square  mile.. 

The  state  of  Delaware  is  considerably  improved,  and,  besides 
many  towns  and  villages  of  inferior  note,  contains  several  of  con- 
siderable size.  The  most  important  are, — Wilmington,  already 
mentioned,  a  large  thriving  town,  built  on  the  plan  of  Philadel- 
phia, consisting  of  500  houses,  a  court-house,  jail,  and  four  places 
for  public  worship ;  it  carries  on  a  very  considerable  trade.  AViC- 
castle  has  been  noticed.  Dover  is  the  seat  of  government,  and 
contains  about  600  inhabitants.  Lewistawn  contains  about  750; 
and  Georgetaam  about  200. 

A  canal  was  projected  across  this  state  and  part  of  Maryland,  to 
form  a  junction  between  the  Delaware  and  Chesapeak,  and  it  is 
partly  cut ;  but  the  work  was  stopped  for  want  of  funds.  It  may 
probably  be  well  that  it  is  so ;  for  it  was  projected  on  too  small  a 
scale,  and,  in  process  of  time,  will  probably  give  way  to  one  that 
will  admit  of  sloop  navigation.  I  never  observed  a  finer  situation 
for  a  canal.  Tlie  distance  between  the  Delaware  and  Chusupeui^ 
is  only  about  18  or  20  miles,  and  the  county  is  nearly  level,  so  that 
few  locks  will  be  requisite;  and  were  a  canal  cut,  it  would  forma 
connexion  between  two  of  the  finest  rivers  in  America,  and  be  a 
link  in  the  chain  of  an  internal  navigation  of  vast  extent. 

The  greater  part  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  state  are  devoted  to 
agricultural  pursuits,  and  they  have  rendered  it  very  productive. 
The  principal  produce  is  wheat,  rye,  Indian  corn,  barley,  oats,  and 
flax.  Grasses  are  abundant,  and  thrive  very  luxuriantly,  furiii< 
ing  food  for  many  caitle ;  and  every  sort  of  vegetable,  common  to 
the  states  already  described,  thrive  well  here.  The  staple  produce 
s  wheat,  of  which  a  great  quantity  of  fiour  is  made  for  e  xport. 


marVIavo. 


137 


Flonr  is  the  principal  itianufacturo  carried  on  in  the  stat^.  The 
mills  on  Drandywine  creek  arc  in  great  perfection,  giving  employ* 
meat  to  upwards  of  600  hands ;  and  they  manufacture  upwards  of 
half  a  million  of  bushels  annually.  The  other  articles  consist  prin- 
cipally of  iron,  paper,  and  himber.  In  these  a  very  extensive  trade 
is  carried  on,  principally  with  the  other  states  and  the  West  Indies. 
The  exports  in  1805  amounted  to  358,383  dollars,  of  which  280,556 
was  foreign  produce.  The  principal  trade  with  Britain  is  carried 
on  through  the  medium  of  Philadelphia. 

A  very  considerable  fund  is  appropriated  by  the  state  to  the  sup- 
port of  schools,  which  are  pretty  numerous,  and  there  are  two  flour- 
ishing academies ;  one  at  Wilmington,  and  the  other  at  Newark. 

The  constitution  guarantees  equal  rights  to  all  the  citizens,  with* 
out  regard  to  property  or  religious  opinions.  The  government  is 
vested  in  a  governor,  a  senate,  and  house  of  representatives,  which 
are  elected  by  ballot,  and  "  every  white  freeman,  of  the  age  of  21y 
who  has  resided  in  the  state  two  years  next  before  the  election,  shall 
enjoy  the  right  of  an  elector.  The  sons  of  persons  so  qualified 
shall,  betwixt  the  ages  of  21  and  22,  be  entitled  to  vote,  though 
tliey  have  paid  no  taxes."     .  ,      „,;    ,,,  ,.  ,^,  ,;.;,._. 


•^i'rft: 


1,!   !* 


CHAPTER  XXIX.        *  v^^ 

Chesapedk  bay, — Baltimore. 

On  the  Hrst  of  October,  1806,  the  day  being  clear  and  beautiful, 
we  arrived  at  Elk  river,  a  branch  of  Chesapealc  bay,  here  about 
two  miles  broad.  At  one  o'clock  we  stq)ped  aboard  the  packet* 
and  immediately  set  sail  with  a  fair  wind ;  and  enjoyed  our  situation 
very  much  after  the  dull  scenery  we  had  passed,  and  the  disagree- 
able jolting  in  the  stage. 

Having  sailed  about  two  miles,  we  passed  a  pretty  large  creek» 
called  Bohe  river,  and,  at  half  past  3  o'clock,  reached  the  Chefia- 
peak  bay.  The  view  here  was  extensive  and  sublime.  The  bay  it 
about  six  or  seven  miles  broad,  and  its  banks  abound  in  rich  sce- 
nery, while  its  waters  were  animated  with  a  great  variety  of  smal^ 
vessels.  To  the  north-west  is  the  entrance  of  the  fine  river  Snsque- 
hannah,  about  a  mile  broad,  and  its  banks  swell  out  Into  hills  of 
considerable  magnitude,  which  terminated  our  vifyr  to  that  dire<K 

18 


1-^  TRAVELS    IN 

fion.     To  the  cast  the  country  is  low,  and  the  soil  appears  poor 
^nd  sandy. 

'  The  wind  shifted  to  the  eastward,  which  considerably  retarded 
otir  progress ;  but  this  afforded  me  more  leisure  to  survey  the  seen- 
diyj  which  was  every  where  pleasant.  The  number  of  small  ves- 
sels that  we  saw  was  very  great,  indicating  a  ccmsiderable  commerce. 

October  2d.  Having  gone  to  bed  last  evening  early,  I  rose  this 
this  morning  at  1  oVlock,  when  I  found  it  clear  and  cold ;  and  a 
considerable  breeze  blowing  from  the  north-west.  I  thought  at  first 
(hat  this  was  in  our  favour ;  but  I  soon  found  that  we  had  in  the 
night  passed  the  branch  that  leads  to  Baltimore,  and  were  nearly 
as  fur  down  as  Annapolis.  We  had  therefore  to  beat  up  all  the 
Way  to  Baltimore,  now  distant  about  20  miles  i  however,  the  vessel 
bailed  remarkably  well^  and  we  made  good  progress.  During  the 
passage  upwards  we  had  a  very  fine  view.  We  arrived  at  Balti- 
more at  6  o'clock  in  the  morning.  •'  .*.'.,,% 
;  Having  taken  lodgings  at  Evans'  tavern,  I  called  on  a  friend  to 
irhom  I  had  a  letter  of  introduction,  and  he  politely  offered  his  ser- 
vices to  faciliate  my  enquiries  at  Baltimore.  On  my  return  to  the 
tavern  to  breakfast,  I  was  astonished  to  see  the  number  of  well-dress- 
ed men  who  sat  down  to  table,  amounting  to  about  80,  and  I  was 
told  the  number  was  seldom  under  40  or  50.  This  is  partly  ac- 
counted for  by  Baltiinove  being  the  great  thoroughfare  between  the 
northern  and  southern  states;  and  the  number  of  people  passing  to 
and  fro,  on  business  and  pleasure,  is  immense.  I  learned  that  a 
great  number  of  strangers  were  in  the  city  at  this  time ;  among  o- 
thers  my  old  friends  and  fellow-travellers,  the  Georgian  major,  and 
the  facetious  Englishman.  They  lodged  at  Bryden'p>  tavern,  a 
bouse  nearly  or  altogether  as  much  frequented  as  Evans'. 

Accompanied  by  my  friend,  I  went  to  see  the  market-house, 
which  is  handsomely  fitted  up,  and  well  supplied  with  provisions; 
the  prices,  I  was  told,  were  reasonable,  and  nearly  the  same  as  at 
Philadelphia.  From  thence  we  went  to  the  cotlee-house ;  on  our 
way  my  friend  pointed  out,  through  a  window,  a  very  handsome 
lady^  with  her  child,  who  he  informed  me  were  the  wife  and  child 
of  Jerome  Bonaparte.^  The  cofice-'house  is  small,  but  commodious, 
and  is  well  supplied  with  newspapers  from  every  part  of  the  United 
States.  From  the  coffee-house  we  went  to  the  library,  which  con- 
tains a  very  excellent  collection  of  books,  and  is  under  good  man* 
ngement ;  the  annual  subscription  is  four  dollars.    Th-s  whole  city 


tppears  poor 


iiahyland.  ;}S(9 

exhibited  a  very  haaidaome  appearance,  and  the  country  ro^nd  h- 
boundsin  villas,  gardens,  and  well  cultivated  fields. 

In  the  afternoon  I  went  to  view  the  ship-yards,  and  saw  a  three- 
mastetl  schooner  launched.  I  was  informed  that  a  great  many  of 
these  vessels  are  built  at  Baltimore,  and  that  they  are  reckoned  Uje 
fastest  sailing  vessels  in  the  United  States.     -»  «  »  ^ '  tfi,,.^--.,,  *>.».% 

I  spent  a  very  pleasant  evening  at  Bryden-s,  along  with  my  friend* 
in  company  with  the  major  and  the  Englishman.  The  major  related  a 
number  of  marvellous  adventures  he  had  met  with  in  his  journey,  and 
concluded  by  informing  us  that  he  was  to  drive  tandem  all  the  way 
to  Georgia,  and  wsw  to  be  accompanied  by  an  elegant  lady,  and  her 
husband,  whom  he  had  engaged  as  a  clerk.  To  accommodate  his 
suite,  he  was  io  take  a  Jersey  waggon,  in  which  he  politely  oSkned 
me  a  passage;  but  I  preferred  travelling  in  my  oim  way,  and  de- 
clined it.  The  !^nglishman  informed  me  that  he  waf>  to  leave  Bal- 
timore next  morning  by  the  stage  for  Cumberland,  and  was  from 
thence  to  travel  through  the  interior  of  the  country  to  New  Orleans, 
a«"'.iling  himself  of  land  or  water  ccmveyance  as  he  might  find  it 


inc  ■ . 


ratable  and  expeditious. 


.^si.  m 


liiK^Ti.  iv-.WJW 


(  <-A  lORE  is  situated  on  a  branch  of  the  Patapsco  river,,  called 
the  tiasip,  15  miles  frojtn  the  Chesapeak  bay,,  and  160  miles  from 
the  Atlantic  ocean.  At  the  commencement  of  the  American  war, 
it  was  but  an  inconsiderable  village;  but  such  has  been  the  r^idity 
of  its  growth,  that  it  is  now  the  fourth  commercial  city  in  tjie  United 
States :  it  contains  upwards  of  6000  dwalling-houses,  and,  by  the 
census  of  1800,  the  inhabitants  ajnounted  to  26,514,  of  whom  2843 
were  slaves :  the  houses  are  mostly  built  of  brick,  and  many  of  them 
are  elegant;  the  principal  public  buildings  are  1^  places  of  public 
worship,  a  coi^rt^house,  a  jail,  three  market-houses,  a  poor-house, 
the  exchange,  theatre,  observatory,  assembly-rooms,  and  library. 
The  monufacturesf  of  Baltimore  are  considerable,  and  consist  chiefs 
ly  of  ships,  cordage,  iron  utensils,  paper,  saddlery,  boots  and  shoes, 
hats,  wool  and  cotton  cards,  &c.  In  the  adjoining  country  there 
are  numerous  i^ills,  furnaces,  and  forges,  which  conti'ibute  much 
to  the  trade  of  the  city. 

The  state  pf  Maryland,  in  point  of  foreign  trj\de,  ranks  the  fourth 
in  the  union,  and  as  a  very  great  portion  of  it  centres  in  Baltimore, 
it  must  necessarily  add  greatly  to  its  wealth  and  importance.  A 
great  portion  of  the  export  trade  is  flour,  much  of  which  is  received 
from  the  state  of  Pennsylvania,  through  the  medium  of  tha  Su»« 


140  MARYLAND. 

quehannah  river;  and  the  citizens  have  a  brisk  trade  in  importing 
and  reshipping  foreign  articles,  particularly  West  Indian  produce-, 
runi)  sugar,  and  co£fee.  A  great  portion  of  the  imports  are  manu< 
fiwtured  goods  from  Britain,  and,  having  the  supply  of  an  immense 
back  country,  i\m  is  an  increasing  trade.  I  learned  too  that  many 
of  the  people  in  the  western  states  give  Baltimore  the  preferences 
Philadelphia;  it  is  50  miles  nearer  to  Pittsburg  than  the  latter  city, 
^ich  has  a  natural  tendency  to  secure  a  preference ;  and  the  inha* 
bitants  of  Maryland,  who  seem  to  appreciate  the  importance  of  this 
trader  have  acted  with  a  laudable  zeal  in  making  good  roads.  Upon 
the  whole,  I  was  highly  pleased  with  the  commercial  importance  of 
Baltimore,  and  regretted  that  I  did  not  fix  upon  this  place  for  my 
commercial  establishment,  in  place  of  Savannah.  The  trade  of 
Baltimore  is  facilitated  by  three  banks,  having  all  ample  capitals. 
One  is  a  branch  of  the  bank  of  the  United  States. 

The  affairs  of  the  city  are  under  the  management  of  a  city  council, 
consulting  of  two  branches,  and  a  maypr.  The  police  seems  to  be 
under  good  regulations,  and  the  streets  are  kept  very  clean,  whicii 
itcureft  good  health  to  the  citizens.  Education  is  pretty  well  attend* 
cdto;  and  the  citizens  are  said  to  be  hospitable  and  industrious: 
the  men  rank  as  correct  men  of  business ;  and  as  to  the  ladies,  I  saw 
but  little  of  them,  and  can  only  say,  ii^  the  language  of  the  quaker, 
♦«thfylookweU/?  '^        ; .        ,    '    . 


jy.v. 


is;; 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

Maryland,  ' 

This  state  is  sjtuated  between  38"  and  39"  43'  north  latitude^ 
an^  2"  east  and  2"  30'  west  longitude.  Its  extreme  length  frooK 
fast  to  west  is  212  miles,  and  its  extreme  breadth  from  north 
to  south  is  123 ;  but  it  is  very  irregular.  It  is  computed  to  contain 
about  H,000  square  miles,  or  8,9(30,000  acres^  of  which  about  one 
fourth  is  water. 

The  face  of  the  country  is  remarkably  variegated.  It  is  bound- 
ed on  the  south-west  by  the  river  Potomac  to  its  extremity ;  and 
the  fine  Chesapeak  Bay,  with  its  numerous  waters,  passes  through 
the  middle  of  it.  On  the  east  side  it  presents  a  coast  of  about  35 
miles  to  the  Atlantic  ocean:  the  eastern  shore  is  low,  level  and  sandy. 
The  country  continues  to  rise  by  a  very  gentle  aicent,  but  is  geQe- 


MiKYLAMD. 


141 


rally  Wei  to  Baltimore ;  it  then  swells  out  into  a  Billy  oounti7,'and 
the  western  part  stretches  across  the  mountains. 

The  Chesapeak  Bay  has  already  been  noticed;  but  it  merits  a  more 
particular  description,  from  its  \aat  importance  to  this  state^  and 
indeed  to  the  United  States  generally.  This  bay  is  formed  by  the 
outlet  of  the  Susquehannah  River,  where  it  receives  French  Creek, 
and  a  number  of  smaller  streams;  it  is  there  about  7  miles  broad, 
and  so  continues  to  near  the  branch  that  leads  up  to  Baltimore ; 
from  thence  it  assumes  various  breadths,  from  10  to  15  miles,  dur- 
ing a  course  downwards  of  about  70  miles,  to  near  the  Potomac 
River :  from  thence  it  stretches  out  to  25  or  30  miles,  during  a  pas- 
sage of  90  miles  more,  and  finally  passes  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean  by 
an  outlet  of  2a  miles  broad :  the  whole  course^  from  north  to  south, 
is  nearly  200  miles,  and  it  receives  in  its  passage  the  whole  waters 
pf  this  state,  nearly  the  whole  of  the  eastern  part  of  Virginia,  a 
great  part  of  those  of  Pennsylvania,  and  some  of  Delaware ;  exhi- 
faitini^  upon  the  whole,  a  greater  confluence  of  waters  than  is  to  be 
seen  in  the  United  States,  or  almost  in  the  world.  The  principal 
rivers  in  Maryland  that  run  into  this  bay,  besides  the  Susquehan- 
nah and  Potomac,  are  the  Patapsco  and  Patuxent,  on  the  west  side ; 
and  on  the  east  side.  Elk  River,  Sassafras,  Chester,  Choptank,  Naa- 
ticoke,  and  Pocomoke,  the  last  of  which  issues  out  of  Cyprus 
Swamp.  There  are  numerous  islands  in  the  bay,  and  the  waters  a- 
bound  with  various  kinds  offish :  the  state  is  generally  well  watered^ 
and  abounds  with  mill-seats.     '" 

Maryland  is  well  supplied  with  iron  ore,  and  $ome  coal  has  been 
found ;  but  not  in  jsufficient  quantity  to  make  it  an  ol^ect  of  im? 
portance.  ■      ■        *    - 

The  soil  is  very  various,  and  a  great  portion  of  it  is  but  poor :  to- 
wards the  eastern  shore  it  is  low  and  sandy,  abounding  with  swamps 
in  the  interior  there  are  many  fertile  spots ;  but  the  greater  part  of 
the  land  is  poor  until  you  pass  the  first  ridge  of  mountains,  where 
there  is  a  fertile  valley  of  12  or  14  miles  broad:  from  thence  the 
soil  is  pretty  much  assimilated  to  the  mountainous  district  qf 
Pennsylvania. 

The  climate  is  as  Various  as  the  soil :  the  eastern  part  is  pretty 
similar  to  Delaware,  indicated  by  a  pale  sickly  colour  in  the  inha- 
bitants. It  improves  as  the  land  gets  hilly,  and  among  the  moun- 
tains is  delightful,  the  summers  being  cooled  by  fine  breezes,  while 
the  wiqters  are  tempered  by  a  southern  latitude,  which  renders  theiQ 
much  more  mild  than  to  the  iiorthwArd. 


14!2 


MARYLAND. 


The  country  was  fint  settled  by  Lord  Baltimore,  a  Romea 
Catholic,  who  evinced  the  liberality  of  his  religious  principles,  by 
providing  for  the  free  exercise  of  all  other  religious  opinions  in  the 
■colony.  At  the  commencement  of  the  revolutionary  war,  the  state 
was  declared  to  belong  to  the  citizens,  who  delegated  five  of  their 
number  to  the  first  congress.  The  state  constitution  was  framed 
in  1776,  which,  with  a  few  trifling  amendments,  still  continues. 
The  state  now  sends  two  senators  and  nine  representatives  to  con- 
gress.       ai-M:  '-^  &l   V'-iiM  A-  rff-r,., 

;  The  state  is  divided  into  19  counties,  and  contained,  by  the 
census  of  1800,  24<  1,885  white  persons,  and  107,707  slaves;  b^ 
ing,  in  the  whole,  about  25  persons  to  the  square  mile  of  ter- 
ritory ;  but,  when  the  proportion  of  water  is  subtracted,  it  makes 
the  amount  to  each  square  mile  nearly  35. 

>fational  improvements  have  kept  pace  with  the  industry 
•and  perseverance  of  the  inhabitants,  and  the  towns,  cultivated 
farms,  roads,  and  bridges  are  all  so  many  proofs  that  the  citizens 
of  Maryland  ore  possessed, /in  a  high  degree,  (^  these  qualifioh 

;  Of  the  cities,  Baltimore,  already  described,  is  tl^e  chief.  .An- 
napolis is  the  seat  of  government,  and  is  situated  on  the  Severn 
River,  about  two  qniles  from  its  entrance  into  Chesapeak  Bay. 
The  houses,  built  of  brick,  are  about  300  in  number,  and  the 
^ity  c(mtains  about  2500  inhabitants.  The  State-House  is  one 
of  the  most  superb  buildings  in  the  United  States.  There  is  a 
college,  a  theatre,  and  two  places  of  public  worship  in  the  city. 
-It  has  a  harbour,  though  no  great  commerce;  but,  being  a  plea- 
sant place,  it  is  the  residence  of  a  great  many  wealthy  people.  Fre- 
^erick'tawn  is  a  large  inland  town,  containing  a  court-house,  jail, 
academy,  market-house,  and  seven  places  of  public  worship.  The 
inhabitants  are  about  6000 ;  and  the  iown  has  considerable  manu- 
factures and  ialajid  trade.  Hagers-town,  situated  beyotid.  the  first 
range  of  mountains,  contains  2100  inhabitants.  Besides  these, 
there  are  a^  great  number  of  smaller  towns  and  villages,  contain- 
ing from  100  to  1000  inhabitants.  A  great  number  of  the  farm- 
houses are  built  of  wood,  and  they  are  not  so  substantial,  nor  so 
elegant,  in  general,  as  those  in  Pennsylvania. 

This  is  the  first  state  in  which  there  is  a  materiid  difference  of 
agriculture  from  the  northern  s^tes;  still,  however,  the  staple 
^op  is  wheat )  but  they  ra|se  a  consider&ble  quantity  «f  tobacco, 


•■i.t>i*7'"»<*"10!4  '•' 


DISTRICT   OF   COLUMBIA.  143 

and  some  cotton,  though  none  of  the  latter  for  exportation.  All 
the  other  grains,  grasses,  and  roots,  that  grow  in  the  northern 
states,  flourish  here ;  and  the  sweet  potatoe,  a  root  belonging  to 
a  warm  climate,  comes  to  considerable  maturity.  f 

The  principal  manufactures  of  the  state  have  been  noticed  in 
the  account  of  Baltimore ;  and  so  has  the  foreign  trade.  The 
exports  from  the  state,  in  1805,  amounted  to  10,859,480  dollars, 
of  which  7,4'50:9S7  dollars  was  foreign  produce ;  and  the  importa 
are  about  equal  in  value,  of  which  a  great  part  consists  in  dry 
goods  from  Britain. 

There  are  considerable  funds  appropriated  to  the  support  of 
I  education.     There  are  five  colleges,  and  a  number  of  very  re^)ect- 
able  academies  in  the  state,  and  common  schools  in  every  cotinty* 

The  civil  government  is  vested  in  a  governor,  senate,  and  house 
of  delegates,  all  chosen  annually.  The  qualification  to  vote  for 
delegates  is  a  freehold  of  50  acres  of  land,  or  property  to  the 
value  of  ^.30  currency.  The  principles  of  government  ave  similar 
to  those  of  Pennsylvania.  --  /    -.v. 


J. I '■/<"!  a 


CHAPTER  XXXL 


•■^i. 


-k.fi}i;Uu-; 


■  Patajpsco  CreeJci — Washington,  ..  .  .;  ^..  . 

On  the  third  of  October,  at  eight  o'clock,  I  set  out  in  the  mail 
stage  for  Washington.  We  travelled  eight  miles  through  a  hilly, 
well-wooded,  and  healthy  country,  and  arrived  at  Patapsco  creek, 
25  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Chesapeak.  It  is  navigable 
thus  far,  but  the  navigation  is  obstructed  by  the  falls  half  a  mile 
above.  We  travelled  eight  miles  more  through  a  similar  country, 
when  w'^  stopped  to  change  horses.  The  land  seemed  but  poor, 
and  lit  ndtivated ;  the  principal  woods  were  oak,  hickory,  and 
pine.  'I'he  air  was  sweet  and  pure,  and  having  intelligent  com- 
pany in  the  stage,  the  travelling  was  very  agreeable.  At  19  mile^ 
from  Patapsco  creek,  we  stopped  again  to  change  horses,  on  an 
elevated  situation,  where  we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  adjacent  coun- 
try ;  and,  in  one  direction,  not  less  than  20  miles  distant. 

From  thence  we  travelled  16  miles,  through  a  country  rough 
and  uneven,  and  by  a  road  no  less  so,  when  we  came  to  an  agrees 
able  plain ;  and  two  miles  further  we  passed  through  a  little  scat- 


144  TBAVELS  IN  THl    -- 

tering  Tillage  called  Dladensburg,  situated  on  (he  east  branch  of 
the  Potomac ;  from  thence  we  travelled  nine  miles  more  to  Wash* 
ington  city;  the  whole  distance  being  44  miles^  The  country  ap- 
peared generally  poor  and  sterile ;  and  the  season  had  been  un- 
commonly  dry,  in  consequence  of  which  all  the  grass  and  herbs 
were  parched,  and  the  face  of  nature  every  where  exhibited  s 
scorched-like  appearance.  I  noticed,  however^  several  tliriviog 
fields  of  tobacco. 

Being  told  that  we  were  entering  Washington  city,  I  contiau* 
ed  looking  for  the  houses  for  some  little  time ;  but  seeing  none, 
I  thought  I  had  misunderstood  the  gentleman  who  made  the 
remark,  and  turning  round  for  an  explanation,  he  told  me,  laugh- 
ing,  that  we  were  almost  in  the  very  middle  of  it,  and  asked  if  I 
did  not  see  the  Capitol  a  little  before  us.  I  did,  indeed,  see  a 
stately  edifice^  but  no  other  appearance  of  a  city.  Soon  after  this, 
the  stage  stopped^  at  Steele's  hotel,  nearly  opposite  the  Capitol, 
where  I  took  lodgings. 

On  walking  out  to  the  Capitol  .  lill,  I  had  a  fine  view  of  the 
whole  scite  of  the  city,  which  is  \  y  large,  extending  a  mile  and 
a  half  in  each  direction  north  and  south  of  the  Capitol ;  to  the 
east  two  miles ;  and  to  the  west  nearly  two  miles  and  a  half.  The 
buildings,  though  numerous,  being  scattered  over  this  large  space, 
give  it  more  the  appearance  of  a  thickly-settlod  country  than  a 
city ;  and,  very  few  of  them  extending  in  the  direction  we  came, 
we  had  travelled  a  good  way  into  the  city  before  I  saw  it^ 

The  view  from  the  Capitol  is  really  superb.  The  whole  coun- 
try round  is  handsomely  settled,  with  elegant  houses ;  and  the 
view  is  terminated  to  the  west,  south-west,  and  north-west,  with 
highlands.  To  the  south,  is  the  river  Potomac,  with  Alexandria 
pleasantly  situated  on  its  banks.  The  navy-yard  and  shipping, 
and  the  barracks,  are  seen  to  the  south-east  and  eastward;  and  to 
the  west  is  the  president's  house,  a  stately  edifice,  about  a  mile 
distant ;  beyond  which,  handsomely  situated  on  the  brow  of  the 
hill,  is  Georgetown.  The  Pennsylvania  avenne  runs  between 
the  Capitol  and  the  president's  house,  and  being  ornamented  with 
trees  and  walks  on  each  side,  forms  a  very  pleasing  prospect.  It 
is  in  this  direction  that  the  city  is  making  greatest  progress. 

The  evening  was  clear  and  pleasant,  and  the  reflection  of  the 
jetting  sun  added  lustre  to  the  scenery. 


BISTfilCT   OF   COLUMBIA. 


143 


CHAPTER  XXXII.  ' 

Washington  f-Treasuryt — Capitol^ — Barracks^ — Nacn/'  Yard, 

Georgetown, 

/Washington,  October  4.  Having  been  furnished  with 
a  letter  ot  Introduction  to  a  gentleman  in  the  treasury  ofRce,  I 
called  this  raoniing,  when  1  was  politely  received,  and  got  every 
information  calculated  to  facilitate  my  inquiries.  My  friend  car- 
ried me  to  the  different  departments  in  the  ofHce,  which  are  all 
spacious  and  commodious ;  but  this  being  a  time  at  which  there 
was  no  public  business,  there  was  little  to  be  seen.  From  thence 
we  went  to  the  post-office,  which  has  no  great  appearance  exterior- 
ly, but  it  seems  to  be  yety  well  arranged  in  the  interior  to  answer 
the  purpose  for  which  it  was  designed.  I  was  informed  that  both 
these  departments  were  under  excellent  management 

I  was  then  introduced  by  my  friend  to  the  gentleman  who  has 
the  charge  of  the  Capitol,  and  went  with  him  to  see  that  edifice. 
It  is  an  elegant  building  of  hewn  stone,  and  consists  of  two  wings 
and  a  portico  in  the  middle.     The  north  wing  was  quite  complete, 
and  the  whole  legislative  business  was  transacted  in  it  for  the  time. 
The  senate-chamber  occupies  the  ground  floor,  and  is  an  elegant 
apartment,  with  handsome  furniture;  it  is  adorned  with  full  length 
portraits  of  the  late  unfortunate  king  and  queen  of  France.     The 
house  of  representatives  meet  in  an    apartment  up  stairs,  which,  I 
was  told,  was  ultimately  destined  for  the  library  room.    It  was 
fitted  up  with  commodious  seats  for  the  members,  but  no  way  or- 
namented.   The  only  things  in  it  which  merited  notice,  were  two 
very  elegant  views  of  the  falls  of  Niagara.     From    thence  we 
went  to  the  south  wing,  where  a  great  many  workmen  were  em- 
ployed; and  I  was  told  they  were  making  great  exertions  to  have  it 
finished  in  time  for  the  next  congress.     The  apartment  for  the 
house  of  representatives  is  a  large  oval  room,  occupying  nearly 
the  whole  building  up  stairs,    and  will,  when  finished,  be  very 
superb. 

From  the  Capitol  I  went  to  see  the  barracks.  They  are  large 
and  convenient,  and  were  garrisoned  by  250  men,  being  a  portion 
of  the  Unitied  States'  army.  I  waa  informed  that  they  were  found 
in  every  thing,  besides  their  pay  of  six  dollars  per  month.  Thii, 
iiowever,  does  nut  bear  a  proportion  to  the  wages  of  the  other 


;i  W'l 


146  •      TAAVfiLt  IN  TBI      1 

classes  in  America^  who,  on  nn  average,  may  be  founci  in  every 
thing,  and  have  twelve  dollars  per  month.  The  conse. 
f{ucncc  is,  that  the  few  military  that  are  wanted  will  probably 
not  be,  gcnerall}'  speaking,  equal  in  respectability  to  the  other  ci- 
tizens. It  is  probable  they  will  be  composed  of  indolent  men,  who 
are  not  willing  to  labour,  or  of  vicious  men,  who  have  become  ob- 
noxious to  society.  This  sliould,  if  possible,  be  guarded  against. 
No  set  of  men  should  be  more  respectable  than  those  to  whom  are 
committed  the  national  defence ;  and  measures  should  be  devised  to 
place  them  on  a  footing  with  their  brethren  in  regard  both  to  in- 
dustry and  pecuniary  means.  Would  it  not  be  wise  in  a  nation  to 
plan  works  of  public  utility,  and  employ  a  portion  of  the  time  of 
the  military  in  executing  them  ?  This  would  not  only  improve  the 
country,  but  would  keep  the  men  in  active  employment,  and  afibrd 
them  wages  e(]ual  to  the  other  classes  in  society. 

From  the  Barracks  I  went  to  the  Navy-Yard,  where  I  saw  cigiit 
or  ten  frigates,  the  most  of  them  undergoing  repair^  I  went  on 
board  one,  which^  I  was  informed,  was  the  Chesapeak.  She  car- 
ries 44  guns,  and  appears  very  large  for  that  metal.      '":'•  ' 

Having  seen  the  most  material  places  in  Washington,  I  procured 
a  hoi'se,  and  took  a  ride  to  Georgetown,  three  miles  distant  front 
the  Capitol.  The  view  is  very  elegant  the  whole  way,  and,  in  the 
vicinity  of  Georgetown,  there  is  a  ro.mantic  chasm,  in  which  there 
is  a  pretty  large  stream  of  water,  called  Rock  Creek.  Having 
passed  this  by  a  wooden  bridge,  I  entered  the  town,  which  I  found! 
regularly  laid  out,  and  compactly  built.  It  stands  on  the  side  of 
a  hill,  having  a  considerable  descent  to  the  river,  of  which  it  has 
a  fine  view.  It  contains  tibout  300  houses,  and  4,500  inhabitants. 
Most  of  the  houses  are  built  of  brick,  and  some  of  them  are  elegant. 
The  public  buildings  are  five  places  for  public  worship,  an  academy, 
and  a  bank.  It  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade,  which,  in  consequence 
of  the  rapid  settlement  of  the  back  country,  is  yearly  increasing. 

The  River  Potomac,  which  is  nearly  a  mile  broad  opposite 
Washington,  contracts  here  to  less  than  a  fourth  of  that  distance; 
and  it  is  proposed  to  build  a  bridge  across  it,  which,  if  executed, 
will  add  much  to  the  convenience  of  this  part  of  the  country. 

This  river  merits  particular  notice,  and  I  cannot  any  where  in- 
troduce it  with  more  propriety  than  here. 

The  Potomac  rises  ii'om  a  spring  on  the  north-west  side  of  tlie 


DISTRICT    OF   COLUMBIA. 


147 


it  sideof  tlw 


Allegany  mountairs,  and  runs  a  north-cast  courso  of  about  60 
miles,  to  Cumberland,  where  it  makes  a  bend,  and,  by  a  serpen- 
tine course,  nearly  south-east,  runs  about   18  miles,  to  wliere  it 
receives  tlie  south-west  branch.     It  then  turns  to  the  north-east, 
and  runs  a  veiy  serpentine  course  of  about  45  miles,  in  wliich  it 
receives  a  considerable  number  of  tributary  streams,  to  Hancock's 
Town.     Here  it  makes  another  bend  to  the  south-east,  and  9  miles 
from  thence  it  receiver,  the  waters  of  Licking  Creek,  and  parses  the 
North  Mountain  into  a  fine  limestone  valley,  which  it  waters  by  a 
very  winding  course,  and  principally   a  south-east  direction,  tor 
about  45  miles.     In  this  valley  it  receives  a  considerable  number  of 
small  streams,  particularly  the  Conccocheague  Creek,  at  Williams- 
)X)rt  in  the  middle  of  the  valley ;  and  at  tlie  extremity  it  receives 
the  waters  of  the  Shenandoah  from  Virginia ;  and,  by  a  singularly 
grand  passage,  issues  through  the  Blue  Mountain,  It  thence  {masses 
on,  nearly  in  the  same  direction,  about  30  miles,  where,  by  two 
different  falls,  in  the  course  of  8  or  10  miles,  it  descends  above 
140  feet  to  the  level  of  tide- water,  which  it  meets  at  Georgetown. 
Tlic  river  now  increases  to  about  a  mile  broad,    and,  passing 
Alexandria  and  Mount  Vernon,  it  runs  a  course  a  little  to  the 
west  of  south,  to  35  mile«  below  Alexandria,  where  it  makes  u 
great  bend  of  nearly  15  miles  to  the  north-east.     It  now  gradually 
increases  in  breadth,  and  running  50  miles  below  this  bend,  flows 
into  the  Chesapeak  Bay,  by  a  passage  about  10  miles  broad.  This 
is  one  of  the  most  important  of  the  Atlantic  rivers,  and,  from  its 
intersecting  the  country  in  a  central  situation,  has  excttMl  great 
attention  in  the  United  States ;  more  especially  sinc^  W^'ashington 
was  fixed  on  as  the  seat  of  the  general  government.     It  h  navigable 
for  ships  of  any  burden  to  Alexandria,  a  distance  of  about  100 
miles,  and  about   180  from  the   Capes  of  Virginia;    and   from 
thence  for  vessels  of  considerable  burden  to  Georgetown,   at  the 
head  of  tide-water.    TJiere  is  a  lock  navigation,   constructed  at 
great  labour  and  expence*  round  the  first  falls.     Considerable  im- 
provements have  been  made  further  up  the  river ;    and  it  is  pre- 
sumed, that,  by  following  up  these  improvements,  the  river  can 
be  made  fit  for  boat  navigation  to  Cumberland,  180  miles  above 
tide-water,  the  elevation  being  700  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

Connected  with  this  important  subject,  I  may  here  notice,  that 
a  road  has  been  laid  out,  by  order  of  congress,  from  Cumberland, 
across  tlie  mountains,  to  Brownsville  on  the  Monongali(4a,  a  ^^ 


148 


TRAVELS    IN    TIIK 


"■:i 


i»"i''f 


m 


■i  % 


%.\f 


tance  of  72  inilei,  on  which  the  angle  of  ascent  is  no  when 
greater  than  5  degrees.  From  Brownsville  there  is  an  easy  navi. 
gation  to  Pittbburg  on  the  Ohio. 

I  returned  from  Georgetown  to  dine  vith  my  friend ;  and  after 
dinner  was  introduced  to  a  number  of  gentlemen  of  Washington, 
who  vied  with  one  another  in  showing  mc  attention,  and  in  giv< 
ing  mc  information. 

Among  others,  I  saw  Mr.  Smith,  t^e  editor  of  the  National  In. 
tclligcncer,  a  shrewd,  sensible  man ;  arid,  having  a  desire  to  be 
correctly  informed  of  the  measures  of  the  gmcrnl  government  du< 
ring  my  stay  in  America,  I  ordered  a  copy  of  that  paper  to  be 
sent  to  Savannah.  I  had  frequently  seen  and  admired  it  for  its 
liberality  of  sentiment,  and  freedom  from  personal  abuse ;  nnd, 
from  the  access  whiclf  the  editor  must  necessarily  have  to  the  best 
sources  pi  information,  I  was  satisfied  that  the  intelligence  con* 
tained  in  it  might  be  generally  relied  on. 

In  the  evening  I  was  informed  by  iny  friends,  that  the  presi^ 
dent  had  unexpectedly  arrivecl  in  the  city,  and  1  was  advised  to 
call  upon  him  before  I  left  it.  I  wished  very  much  to  have  an 
opportunity  of  seeing  t)ic  president-;  but  I  was  informed  at  New 
York  and  Philadelphia,  that  he  would  not  be  at  Washington  until 
late  in  November,  in  consequence  of  which,  I  was  not  furnish* 
cd  with  a  letter  of  introduction*  But  they  informed  me,  that  it  wai 
altogether  unnecessary ;  Mr.  Jefferson  yras  a  man  of  no  ceremony, 
and  I  could  introduce  myself  as  a  stranger,  and  would  be  attended 
to  as  such,  and  would  see  more  of  the  president  tlian  I  could  in 
any  other  way. 

This  advice  I  resolved  to  follow,  and  the  result  of  it  shall  be 
communicated  in  the  next  chapter.       ,   ,     -     .i 


)■■ 


-     ( 


CHAPTER  XXXIII.       ' 
-    Interview  with  Mr.  Jefferson. 


Washington,  October  S.  in  pursuance  of  the  recomi 
mendation  of  my  friends,  I  set  oiit,  this  morning,  at  8  o'clock, 
for  the  purpose  of  waiting  on  Mr.  Jefferson.  On  my  arrival  at 
the  president's  house,  I  delivered  my  address  to  a  servant,  who  in 
a  few  minutes  returned  with  an  answer,  that  Mr.  Jefferson  wouM 
be  with  me  presently,  and  sliowed  me  into  an  elegant  apartment. 


DISTKICT   or   COLUMBIA. 


149 


Mr.  Jt'ffcrson  noon  entered  by  an  inner  door,  and   requesting  me 
to  be  •eoted,  sat  down  himself;  and  immediately,  and  very  frank- 
ly, entered  into  conversation,  by  asking  where  I  had  landed,  and 
how  long  I  had  been  in  the  country.     Having  informed   him,  he 
remarked  that  I  would  probably  be  travelling  to  the  nortliward ; 
and  in^giv.  JB  I  replied  that  I  had  been  to  the  north,  and  was  now  travelling  to 
iS  the  Kouthward.      "  And  how  do  you  like  New  York  ?"    "  Very 
much,"  said  1 ;  "it  is  one  of  the  finest  sea-ports  I  have  seen,  and, 
I  presume,  will  always  continue  to  be  the  first  commercial  city 
in  the  United  States."     He  observed  that  he  found  that  idea  gene- 
rally entertained  by  strangers ;  that   Ner>  York   wa:\  a  y try  hne 
situation,  and  would  unquestionably  continue  ';lw.''\s  ht  be  a  ffuat 
commercial  city :  but  it  appeared  to  him  thcf,  Nonjuil:  woi.'d  pro- 
bably, in  process  of  time,  be  the  greatest  sen-pr  rl,  in  the  IJfiited 
States,'  New  Orleans  perhaps  excepted.  }r\t  poini'i  c!  out  ihc.  nircum  - 
stances  of  the  vast  confluence  of  waters,  tliat  constiintcH  ;he  outle'  of 
the Chcsapeak  bay,  on  which  Norfolk  issitir-'ipcl,  uaii  cnijcd ked  rhfti 
these  rivers  were  as  yet  but  partially  settled ;  bi*.*;  tiiey  w-^^'t  rapi^Jly 
settling  up,  and,  when  the  population  wiis  fulJ,  the  qu  entity  »t  sur- 
plus produce  would  be  immense,  and  Norfolk  would  pro<>ably  bi^• 
come  the  greatest  depot  in  the  United  States,  i;:xcept  New  Orlcur .{. 
The  conversation  next  turned  upon  the  climate  and  season ;  on 
which  the  president  remarked,  that  the  country  hud  ih'iu  surnvnev 
been  remarkably  healthy ;  that  no  case  of  epidimici?.;  ^rckvci^;;^  had 
come  to  his  Icnowledge,  some  few  of  bilious  fever  and  fever  r  ud 
ague  excepted,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains  on  James'  rivei*,  raX 
fui  from  where  he  lived ;  and  which  country  was  r:ever  known  to 
experience  any  cases  of  the  kind  beforp.     As  this  appeared  f^i'igu- 
lar,  I  inquired  whether  there  was  any  wsy  o^occountitiij  for  it. 
He  replied,  that  the  way  he  accounted  for  it  war;  thn ;    *•  In  ordi- 
nary seasons,  there  is  a  sufficiency  of  wpt^r  re  keep  the  rivers  in  a 
state  of  circulation,  and  no  more;  b:^t  rhis  soH.<;on  there  has  been 
a  long  and  severe  drought,  which,  ii.  Lioiiy  places,  has  dried  them  up. 
The  water  has  stagnated  in  puols,  and  sends  out  a  putrid  effluvia  to 
some  distance ;  which.^  beirig  lighter  than  the  atmosphere,  ascends 
even  some  little  way  up  the  mountains,  and  reaches  the  abodes 
of  those  who  thought  themselves  heretofore  free  from  attack.'* 

I  was  struck  with  the  force  of  this  remark,  and  applied  it  to  a  cir- 
cumstance that  had  come  under  my  observation  at  Washington. 
The  Capital  Hill  is  elevated  aboye  tke  river  upwards  of  70  feet, 


J 50  TRAVELS   IN  THE 

Between  this  and  die  river  there  is  a  low  meadow,  about  a  mile 
broad,  abounding  with  swamps  and  shrubbery.  In  the  autumn 
these  swamps  send  out  an  effluvia,  which  often  affects  the  health 
of  those  who  live  on  the  hill.  I  noticed  this  circumstance,  and 
the  president  remarked,  that  it  was  exactly  in  point.  He  said  he 
had  frequently  observed  from  his  windows,  in  the  morning,  the 
vapour  to  rise,  and  it  seemed  to  have  sufficient  buoyancy  to  carry 
it  to  the  top  of  the  hill,  and  no  further ;  there  it  settled,  and  the 
inhabitants  coining  out  of  their  warm  |Y)om8,  breathed  this  cold 
contaminated  vapour,  which  brought  on  agues  and  other  com- 
plaints. He  said  he  had  frequently  pointed  out  this  to  the  people, 
and  urged  them  to  drain  the  swamp,  but  it  was  still  neglected, 
although  they  had,  besides  sufFeringin  their  health,  probably  expend- 
ed more  in  doctor's  bills  than  it  would  have  cost.  "  But,  indeed," 
he  continued,  "  mankind  are  exceedingly  slow  in  adopting  resolu- 
tions to  prevent  diseasei  and  it  is  very  difficult  co  convince  them 
where  they  originate;  particularly  when  the  reasoning  applied 
is  the  result  of  philosophical  deduction."  .    •  ^  . 

The  transition  from  this  subject  to  that  of  the  yellow  fever  vras 
natural,  and  I  introduced  it  by  noticing  Paine's  essay  on  the  sub- 
ject. The  president  observed,  that  it  was  one  of  the  most  sensible 
performances  on  that  disease,  that  had  come  under  his  observation. 
The  remarks  were  quite  philosophical,  and,  not  being  calculated  to 
^cite  any  party  feeling,  they  might  have  a  very  useful  tendency.* 

He  then  made  a  few  remarks  pn  the  nature  of  the  yellow  fever 
it8el£  He  observed,  that  it  evidently  arose  from  breathing  im- 
pure  air,  and  impure  air  may  be  either  generated  in  the  country 
or  imported.  A  case  had  come  under  his  observation  where  it 
was  iiiiported.  A  vessel  arrived  at  Norfolk,  and  the  air  in  her 
hold  was  so  pestilential,  that  every  pertjon  who  went  into  it  was 
a£fected,  and  some  of  them  died ;  but,  on  the  discovery  being 
jnade,  the  vessel  was  purified,  and  the  fever  did  not  spread.  This 
was  a  local  circumstance,  he  observed,  and  there  may  be  many 
Others,  which  are  pernicious  as  far  as  they  go,  and  care  should  be 
taken  to  prevent  them.    But  a  ship  can  never  import  a  sufficient 

"  I  bad  seen  this  eivay  of  Mr.  Pttine  in  the  newspapen,  and  I  made  msution  of  k 
in  the  account  (^  my  coaversation  with  him,  page  63.  I  have  since  procured  a  copy 
of  the  essay ;  and  as  it  is  the  most  intelligible  account  that  I  have  yet  seen  of  t<ie  yd- 
■low  ferer,  and  is  entirely  clear  of  party  prejudices,  I  have  inserted  it  ^t  ?ull  lengtli 
Ja  die  Appendix,  Nok  I,     *   •»•     «--    -•"  --•■  --—•--'  -     * '^^  * 


DISTRICT   or   COLUMBIA* 


151 


quantity  of  impure  air  to  pollute  a  whole  cityt  if  that  city  be  other* 
wise  healthy,  and  therefore  the  origin  of  the  yellow  fever,  on 
an  extended  scale,  must  be  sought  for  in  an  impure  air,  generated 
from  filth  collected  in  and  about  great  cities;  and  it  was  very 
expedient  that  this  view  of  the  subject  should  be  enforced,  in  or* 
der  to  induce  mankind  to  attend  to  one  of  tlie  most  important 
concerns  in  life — cleanliness. 

I  took  notice  of  the  bad  state  of  the  road  between  Baltimoro 
and  Washington,  and  expressed  my  surprise  that  it  should 
remain  in  this  state,  so  near  the  capital  of  the  United  States. 
The  president  observed,  that  the  removal  of  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment was  a  recent  measure,  and  the  country  was  so  extensive^ 
that  it  would  necessarily  be  a  considerable  time  before  good  roads 
could  be  made  in  all  directions,  but  as  it  was  a  most  important 
subject,  it  would  be  attended  to  as  fast  as  circumstances  would 
permit;  and  the  road  to  Baltimore,  being  the  great  thoroughfare 
to  the  northern  states,  would  probably  be  one  of  the  first  that 
would  undergo  a  thorough  repair.  He  then  informed  me,  that 
both  this  subject  and  that  of  internal  navigation  by  canals,  were 
under  consideration  at  the  present  time,  upon  a  very  extended 
scale,  and  probably  a  report  would  soon  be  published  relative  to 
them ;  and  he  had  little  doubt,  but  that  in  less  than  20  years 
turnpike  roads  would  be  general  throughout  the  country;  and  a 
chain  of  canals  would  probably  be  cut,  which  would  complete  an 
inland  navigation  from  Massachusetts  to  Georgia ;  and  another  to 
connect  the  eastern  with  the  western  waters.  ^  , .  *^ ', 

I  remarked  that  these  would  be  most  important  improvetnenta^ 
and  would  greatly  facilitate  internal  intercourse ;  and  as  to  manu- 
factures, I  presumed  it  would  long  continue  to  be  the  policy  of 
the  country  to  import  them.  He  replied,  that  this,  like  other 
branches,  would  of  course  find  its  level,  and  would  depend  upcn  the 
genius  of  the  people ;  but  it  was  astonishing,  the  progress  that  had 
been  made  in  manufactures  of  late  years.  It  would  hardly  be  believ- 
ed, he  said,  by  strangers,  but  he  had  it  on  the  best  authority,  that 
the  manufactures  of  Philadelphia  were  greater  in  value  annually, 
than  were  those  of  Birmingham  20  years  ago ;  and  he  had  no 
doubt  but  that  manufactures  of  articles  of  the  first  necessity 
would  increase  until  they  became  quite  general  through  the  country. 
As  the  non-importation  act  was  then  in  dependence,  I  was  na^ 
turally  anxious  to  ascertain^   whether  matters  were  likely  to  be^ 


152 


DISTRICT  OF   COLUMBIA. 


M":'*: 


;l 


!l!'"     < 


adjusted  with  Britain,  and)  as  modestly  as  possible,  endeavoured 
to  turn  the  conversation  that  way.  1  was  urged  to  this  by  two 
considerations.  I  was  not  sure  but  that  part  of  our  fall  importa* 
tion  would  come  under  the  operation  of  the  non-importation 
act,  if  it  took  place ;  and  being  fully  satisfied  of  the  friendly 
disposition  of  the  whig  party  in  Britain  towards  America,  I  would 
gladly  have  availed  myself  of  an  opportunity  of  expressing  that 
opinion  to  the  president.  But  on  this  subject  Mr.  Jefferson  was, 
of  course,  reserved ;  though,  from  the  few  observations  he  made^ 
I  concluded  that  matters  would  ultimately  be  amieiibly  adjusted. 
I  was  highly  gratified  by  the  expression  of  his  opinion,  on  the 
character  of  my  great  favourite  statesman  Mr.  Fox.  Accounts  had 
that  morning  reached  Washington,  that  Mr.  Fox  was  in  the  last 
stage  of  his  illness. — I  noticed  the  circumstance.  "  Poor  man," 
said  Mr.  Jefferson,  "I  fear  by  this  time  he  is  no  more,  and  his  loss  vrill 
be  severely  felt  by  his  country :  he  is  a  mnn  of  the  most  liberal  and 
enlightened  policy — ^a  friendto  his  country,  and  to  the  human  race." 
A  gentleman  then  called  upon  him,  I  believe  general  Eiiton,  and 
I  took  my  leave,  highly  pleased  with  the  affability,  intelligence  and 
good  sense  of  the  President  of  America.       jr.  ,  (,t 


iiiu 


•^Vi^'.i'j-J 


'1-..^  <i^  .  i  i 


y  u 


iA  ■> 


•    CHAPTER  XXXIV. 
District  of  Columbia. 


'i:  i.' 


This  district  is  lO  mlles  square,  and  was  ceded  to  the  United 
States  by  the  states  of  Virginia  and  Maryland ;  and  in  the  year 
.  1800  became  the  seat  of  the  general  government.     It  is  in  north 
latitude  38°  54',  and  the  American  geographers  have  adopted  it 
as  the  first  meridian  of  longitude,  which  I  have  followed  in  m; 
descriptions  of  the  states,  so  as  the  reader  may  know  at  a  glance 
how  far  they  are  removed  from  the  capital.     The  face  of  the  coun- 
try around  it  has  been  noticed :    the  soil  appears  poor  and  sandy; 
the  climate  is  the  same  as  the  middle  district  of  Maryland,  and, 
judging  from  the  countenances  of  the  people,  I  should  infer  it  is  not 
very  healthy :  it  is  high  and  dry ;  but  the  whole  flat  country  of  Vir- 
ginia and  North  Carolina  lies  to  the  south  of  it;  and,  when  a  south 
wind  blows,  it  must  waft  a  great  deal  of  marsh  effluvia  along  with  it* 
of  which  the  people  in  this  disti-ict  will  receive  a  full  share. 
The  district  lies  oq  both  sides  of  the  Potomac  river,  and  is  (it- 


DISTRICT   OP  COLUMBIA.  153 

vidtd  into  two  counties,  one  on  t%ch  side.  The  population,  when 
I  waf  therS)  was  supposed  to  be  about  17,000,  including  those  of 
Georgetown  and  Alexandria ;  and  it  was  rapidly  encreasing. 

The  general  improvements  in  this  district  have  been  already  no- 
ticed. Besides  the  settlements  scatter  jv^  over  the  district,  it  con- 
tains two  principal  towns,  and  the  capital;  of  these,  Georgetown 
has  been  already  mentioned ;  and  as  I  snail  have  occasion  to  notice 
Alexandria  in  a  subsequent  article,  it  only  remains  here  to  give  a 
general  account  of  the  federal  city. 

WASHINGTON 

Is  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  district  of  Columbia,  and  is  bound- 
ed on  the  south-east  by  the  eastern  branch  of  the  Potomac  river,  to 
the  south-west  by  the  western  branch,  to  the  north-west  by  Rock 
creek,  and  to  the  north-cast  by  the  open  country.  Its  extreme 
length  from  north-west  to  south-east  is  a  little  more  than  four  miles 
and  a  half,  and  its  medium  breadth  from  north-east  to  south-west 
about  two  miles  and  a  half,  being  nearly  the  dimensions  of  the  city 
^London,  including  Westminster  and  Southwark. 

An  elegant  plan  of  this  city  has  been  published,  on  which  I  count- 
ed 37  squares,  17  grand  avenues,  named  afler  the  different  states, 
and  103  streets  crossing  one  another  at  right  angles,  and  running 
the  whole  length  and  breadth  of  the  city.  On  this  plan  I  find  the 
following  observations : 

"  The  grand  avenues,  and  such  streets  as  lead  immediately  to 
public  places,  are  from  130  to  160  feet  wide,  and  riay  be  conveni- 
ently divided  into  foot-ways,  walks  of  trees,  and  a  carriage-way. 
The  other  streets  are  from  90  to  110  feet  wide. 

"  In  order  to  execute  th|s  plan,  Mr.  Ellicott  drew  a  true  meri- 
dional line  by  celestial  observation,  which  passes  through  the  area 
intended  for  the  capitol ;  this  line  he  crossed  by  another,  due  east 
and  west,  which  passes  through  the  same  area :  these  lines  were  ac- 
curately measured,  and  made  the  basis  on  which  the  whole  plan  was 
executed.  He  ran  all  the  lines  by  a  transit  instrument,  and  deter- 
mined the  acute  angles  by  actual  measurement,  and  lefl  nothing  to 
the  uncertainty  of  the  compass. 

"  The  positions  for  the  different  edifices,  and  for  the  several 
squares  or  areas  of  didbrent  shapes,  as  they  are  laid  down,  were  first 
determined  on  the  most  advantageous  ground,  commanding  the 
most  extensive  prospects,  and  the  better  susceptible  of  such  improve- 
ments as  either  use  or  ornament  may  hcreailer  call  for. 

20 


154 


TRAVULS    IN   THE 


•■I  'w 


"  Lines  or  avenues  of  direct  communication  have  been  devised  to 
connect  the  separate  and  most  distant  objects  with  the  principal,  and 
to  preserve  through  the  whole  a  reciprocity  of  sight  at  the  same 
time.  Attention  has  be^  paid  to  the  passing  of  these  leading  av^ 
nues  over  the  motit  favourable  ground  for  prospect  and  convenience- 

"  North  and  south  lines,  intersected  by  others  running  due  east 
and  west,  make  the  distribution  of  the  city  into  streets,  squares,  &c.; 
and  those  lines  have  been  so  combined  as  to  meet  at  certain  given 
points  with  those  divergent  avenues,  so  as  to  form  on  the  spaces 
first  determined,  the  different  squares  or  areas." 

There  are  three  creeks  delineated  on  the  plan,  above  the  city,  on 
which  I  find  the  following  observations : 

**  The  perpendicular  height  of  Tiber  creek  above  the  level  of  the 
tide  in  said  creek,  is  236  feet,  7  inches :  the  water  of  this  creek  may 
be  conveyed  on  the  high  ground  where  the  Capitol  stands,  and  af- 
ter watering  that  part  of  the  city,  may  be  destined  to  other  useful 
purposes.  The  perpendicular  height  of  the  ground  where  the  Ca- 
pitol is  to  stand  is  above  the  tide  of  Tiber  creek  78  feet. 

"  The  perpendicular  height  of  the  west  branch  above  the  tide  ii 
Tiber  creek,  is  115  feet,  7  inches. 

"  The  water  of  Reedy  creek,  and  that  of  the  Tiber,  may  be  con- 
veyed to  the  president's  house." 

A  most  elegant  plan  indeed,  and  a  very  animated  description. 
It  only  wants  40,000  elegant  buildings,  and  a  corresponding  popu- 
lation, to  constitute  the  American  capital  one  of  the  handsomest  ci- 
ties iii  the  world !  However,  it  is  to  be  recollected  that  every  thirg 
must  have  a  beginning ;  and  the  time  was  when  London  was  not 

The  city  now  probably  contains  about  700  houses,  and  5000  in- 
habitants :  the  buildings  are  all  of  brick,  three  stories  high,  and  a- 
greeable  to  a  given  plan ;  there  are  many  scattering  huts  and  wood- 
en buildings  throughout  the  district,  but  they  are  only  temporary. 
The  greater  part  of  the  public  buildings  have  been  already  noticed: 
there  are,  besides,  two  or  three  churches,  three  market-houses,  and 
a  jail.  The  markets  arc  tolerably  well  supplied  with  provisions; 
but  every  article  is  dear;  the  prices  may  be  reckoned  one-lhird 
higher  than  at  Philadelphia, — a  circumstance  that  will  probably  o- 
peratc  against  the  progress  of  population. 

The  principal  manufactures  are  those  calculated  for  domestic  con- 
sumption, boots,  shoes,  hats,  &c.  There  is  a  considerable  retail 
trade ;  but  very  little  of  any  other :  the  shipping  trade  is  carried  on 
at  Alexaudriii,  and  the  inland  trade  at  Georgetown. 


' 


1 

i 


i 


DISmiCT    OF  COLUMBIA.  155 

The  inhabitants  are  a  collection  from  all  quarters  of  the  union,  and 
there  are  many  foreigners  among  them  :  they  are  reputed  to  be  or- 
derly and  correct  in  their  morals,  and  have  bent  their  attention 
very  much  to  the  subjects  of  education  and  internal  improvement. 

ITie  district  of  Columbia,  west  of  the  Potomac,  is  subject  to  the 
laws  of  Virginia,  and  easi  of  the  river  to  those  of  Maryland ;  but 
the  whole  is  under  the  special  direction  of  the  government  of  the 
United  States,  and  the  internal  police  is  managed  by  a  corporation, 
of  which  the  president  of  the  United  States  appoints  the  mayor : 
the  other  members  are  elected  by  the  people. 

There  is  a  circuit  court  of  the  United  States  within  the  district, 
consisting  of  a  chief  judge  and  two  assistants,  and  they  hold  four 
sessions  annually.  i  •    ,'     • 

A  few  general  remarks  shall  close  this  chapter,  and  my  account 
of  the  capital  of  the  United  States.  :    / 

Having,  in  the  course  of  my  travels,  heard  a  great  many  con- 
flicting opinions  about  British  influence  and  French  influence,  and 
federalism  and  democracy,  and  the  supposed  enmity  of  the  Ameri- 
can government  to  Britain  and  British  trade,  and  of  a  partiality 
for  the  French  and  Bonaparte,  I  determined  to  take  no  share  in 
the  argument,  but  to  hear  all  the  evidence  on  both  bides,  as  it  came 
in  my  way,  and  to  judge  for  myself.  -  >      a     , .  . 

The  result  of  this  judgment  I  shall  now  communicate. 

I  was  ^tisfied,  from  all  that  I  had  seen  and  heard,  that  there  is 
bonajde  British  influence  in  the  country,  of  a  very  powerful  nature, 
great  in  extent,  and  arising  from  very  obvious  causes :  the  princi- 
pal of  these  are  the  identity  of  language,  the  similitude  of  manners 
and  habits,  and  the  extensive  commerce  between  the  United  States 
and  Britain.  To  prove  the  influence  arising  from  these,  it  is  un- 
necessary to  go  beyond  my  own  person.  I  landed  in  America  a 
stranger :  I  travelled  through:  the  country,  associating  every  where 
freely  with  the  people :  I  was  uniformly  received  as  a  friend.  I 
waited  on  the  chief  magistrate  of  America,  altogether  in  an  unpre- 
meditated manner :  I  sent  up  my  address  as  *'  a  native  of  Britain :" 
his  conduct  and  conversation  have  been  faithfully  recorded  in  the 
preceding  chapter,  and  the  public  can  judge  of  it.  Did  it  look  like 
prejudice  against  Britain,  or  British  people  ? — I  say  no. 

In  regard  to  French  influence,  it  stands  upon  a  footing  exactly 
the  reverse:  the  natives  of  France  have  a  diflerent  language,  and 
different  manners  and  habits :    when  they  urrive  in  this  country 


i<!ft 


156  TBATEL8  IM 

they  hare  a  language  to  learn;  they  never  can  earn  to  q)eak  It 
with  the  fluency  of  a  native ;  and  they  have  few  ideas  in  common,  u 
that  there  really  is  little  whereon  to  ground  a  free  interchange  of 
sentiments  and  of  friendship.  Accordingly  it  is  found  that  the 
French  natives  in  the  country  are  generally  a  quiet  peaceable  peo* 
pie,  who  associate  mostly  among  themselves,  and  pay  little  or  noat< 
tention  to  politics,  or  to  public  concerns.  I  cannot  illustrate  this 
subject  better  than  by  a  quotation  from  M.  Talleyrand.  He  had 
travelled  extensively  in  the  United  states,  and  had  paid  very  close 
attention  to  the  manners  of  the  people.  He  closes  a  series  of  obser* 
vations  with  this  sentiment :  **  In  all  my  travels  through  the  coun- 
try, I  never  saw  an  Englishman  that  was  not  treated  as  a  native; 
I  never  saw  a  Frenchman  that  was  not  treated  as  a  stranger." 

Passing  over  mere  party-bickerings,  which  1  leave  with  a  great 
deal  of  pleasure  to  the  newspapers,  I  shall  here  remark  that  it  ap* 
pcared  to  me  there  was  every  disposition  to  have  an  amicable  ad* 
justment  of  all  differences  with  Britain,  and  to  cultivate  a  friendly 
intercourse  to  every  extent  that  the  natives  niUtually  wished,  oi 
that  their  wants  might  call  for;  and  as  to  partiality  for  Bonaparte 
and  the  French,  it  was  my  sincere  opinion,  very  deliberately  form* 
ed,  that  there  was  none.  Hence^  my  opinion  was  strengthened  as 
to  the  probability  of  a  good  understanding  between  the  two  coun* 
tries ;  for  I  was  satisfied  of  the  friendly  disposition  of  the  British 
ministry.  I  knew  they  did  not  all  view  America  in  the  same  light, 
and  I  dreaded  the  loss  of  Mr.  Fox ;  but  while  a  Grenville,  an  £rs- 
kine,  and  a  Grey  remained  in  the  cabinet,  I  was  convinced  that  the 
valuable  trade  to  the  United  States  would  not  be  sacrificed  to  a 
crooked  policy,  nor  to  gratify  the  avarice  of  a  number  of  unprinci' 
pled  speculators.  I  saw,  indeed,  a  black  cloud  in  the  rere.  A  most 
powerful  tory  faction  pressed  upon  the  national  councils,  and  al- 
most brow-beat  virtue  out  of  countenance ;  and  this  faction  was 
strong  in  the  good-will  of  the  court.  But,  to  counterbalance  this, 
the  heir  apparent,  the  prince  of  Wales,  was  with  the  whig  party, 
and  I  hoped  for  the  best. 

In  the  afternoon  I  took  my  departure,  in  a  ferry-boat,  for  Alex- 
andria, which  I  reached  at  6  o'clock. 

Alexandria  is  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Potomac,  in  the 
south-east  corner  of  the  district  of  Columbia.  It  is  laid  out  on 
the  plan  of  Philadelphia,  the  streets  crossing  one  another  at  right 
angles,  and  they  are  broad  and  airy.    It  contained,  by  the  consul 


yiflGlMlA 


157 


of  1800,  4096  free  inhabitants,  and  875  slaves;  the  population  has 
since  greatly  increased.  The  public  buildings  arc  a  court-house 
and  jail,  a  bank,  and  an  episcopal  church.  I  observed  consider- 
able shipping  in  the  river,  and  learned  that  the  inhabitants  have  a 
pretty  extensive  trade,  principally  in  flour  and  tobacco. 

The  weather,  during  my  stay  in  the  district  of  Columbia,  wa» 
clear  and  very  warm ;  and  from  the  observations  I  made,  I  was 
satisfied  that  there  must  be  a  material  difference  of  climate  between 
this  place  and  Philadelphia,  the  great  change  happening  some- 
where near  the  Patapsco  river,  agreeably  to  the  opinion  of  Volney. 

On  applying  at  the  mail  stage-oftice,  I  found  there  were  10 
places  engaged,  so  that  it  was  with  some  difficulty  I  could  get  ac- 
commodated ;  but  they  agreed  to  squeeze  me  amongst  the  number ; 
and  I  retired  to  bed,  resolved  to  sleep  as  fast  as  possible,  with  a  view 
of  getting  up  at  4  o'clock  in  the  morning,  the  hour  at  which  I  wa« 
told  the  stage  would  set  out.       ,,  ..  .       ,  .    . 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 

1,..     .  '  r  .  .  ; 

,     ...        Fredericksburgi — JRichmond, — Petersburg,         .  ..■ , 

Monday,  October  eth,  1806,  at  half  past  4  o'clock,  I  took 
my  place  in  the  stage,  and  we  lefl  Alexandria  a  little  before  5. 
We  travelled  by  a  pretty  rough  road,  17  miles,  to  Occoquhan 
creek,  where  we  stopped  for  breakfast.  Part  of  our  journey  being 
before  day-light,  I  could  only  remark  that  the  country  appeared 
uneven,  and  the  soil  tolerably  good. 

After  breakfast,  the  company  began  t6  get  a  little  acquainted 
with  each  other,  and  to  exchange  sentiments.  I  mentioned  before 
that  we  were  1 1  in  number,  and  it  will  show  the  nature  of  travel- 
ling in  this  country,  to  mention  the  places  of  destination.  Three 
of  the  passengers  were  going  to  Richmond,  in  Virginia,  126  miles 
distant ;  two  were  going  to  Columbia,  in  south  Carolina,  distant 
511  miles;  one  to  Augusta,  in  Georgia,  distant  596  miles;  one  to 
Fayetteville,  .North  Carolina,  351  miles;  three  to  different  places 
in  the  interior  of  the  country ;  and  I  was  going  to  Savannah,  in 
Georgia,  distant  653  miles. 

As  we  constituted  a  little  republic,  and  several  of  us  were  to  be 
many  days  together,  we  proceeded  to  elect  office-bearers.  The 
gentleman  from  Fayetteville  #as  chosen  president ;    the  company 


153 


TRAVELS    IN 


a 


conferred  on  me  the  honour  of  being  vicc-presiderit  ?    and  thus  or- 
ganized we  proceeded  to  the  "  order  of  the  day." 

Our  president,  who  was  called  captain,  by  which  title  I  shall 
hereafter  denominate  him,  was  an  excellent  travelling  companion. 
He  sung  a  good  song;  told  a  good  story;  and  was,  withal,  very 
facetious,  and  abounded  in  mirth,  humour,  and  jollity. 

He  had  not  long  taken  the  chair,  when,  with  the  permission  w 
the  company,  he  sun^^  a  humorous  song,  which  put  us  all  in  good 
spirits.  He  then  proposed  that  eadi  man  in  his  turn  should,  when 
called  on  by  the  president,  sing  a  song,  tell  a  sto  ry,  or  pay  five 
cents;  which  being  unanimously  agreed  to,  was  immediately  car- 
ried  into  execution,  and  called  forth  a  wonderful  degree  of  merri- 
ment and  good  hunK>ur.  I  found  myself  a  little  at  a  loss,  as  I 
did  not  wish  to  part  with  my  cents,  and  I  had  nothing  but  Scots 
stories  and  Scots  songs ;  but  I  soon  found  that  these  were  highly  sa- 
tisfactory, and  that  the  name  of  Robert  Burns  was  as  well  known, 
and  as  highly  esteemed  in  Virginia,  as  in  Ayrshire. 

Our  captain  was  both  a  son  of  Neptune  and  a  son  of  Mars; 
and  could  adapt  the  technical  language  of  these  professions  to  the 
different  movements  of  the  stage,  with  remarkable  facility.  When 
the  coach  heeled  to  one  side,  he  would  call  out  "  To  the  right 
and  left,  and  cover  your  flanks — ^whiz ;"  and  when  we  passed  a 
stream  by  a  ford,  he  would  sing  out,  "  by  the  deep  nine,"  ac- 
companied with  all  the  attitudes  of  heaving  the  lead.  The  day 
was  clear,  pleasant,  and  healthy ;  and  in  this  strain  of  merriment 
and  good  humour,  we  prosecuted  our  journey  much  to  our  satis- 
faction. 

From  where  we  breakfasted,  we  travelled  through  a  hilly  coun- 
try, and  but  partially  cultivated,  to  Dumfries,  a  small  town  con- 
taining about  300  inhabitants,  court-house,  jail,  &c. ;  and  from 
thence  we  passed  on  through  a  hilly  country,  but  more  improved, 
to  Fredericksburg,  25  miles,  where  we  stopped  for  the  night. 

Fredericksburg  is  situated  on  the  south-west  side  of  Rappahan- 
noc  river.  It  is  regularly  laid  out,  the  streets  crossing  one  an- 
other at  right  angles,  and  consists  of  about  300  houses,  contain- 
ing about  1600  inhabitants.  The  principal  public  buildings  are  an 
episcopal  church,  an  academy,  courtrhouse,  and  jail.  It  carries 
on  a  considerable  trade,  principally  in  flour  and  tobacco. 

The  Rappahannock  river  rises  in  the  Blue  Mountains,  by 
two  considerable  streams,  called  Rapid  Ann  river  and  Hedgeman 


VIRGINIA.  159 

river;  which  unite  about  12  miles  above  this  place,  and,  running 
a  south-east  course,  falls  into  the  Chesapeak  bay  about  90  miles 
below  Fredericksburg,  where  it  is  about  three  miles  broad.  It  is 
navigable  to  Fredericksburg,  where  it  has  two  fathoms  water.* 

On  Tuesday,  the  7th  October,  we  started  from  Fredericksburg, 
at  1  o'clock  in   the  morning,  and  travelled   through  an  uneven 
country,  and  pretty  well  cultivated,  to  Bowling- Green,  2a  miles; 
and  a  few  miles  further,  we  pass&ed  Mattapony  rivei*.     This  river 
rises  about  20  miles  above  where  we  crossed  it,  and  runs  a  south'- 
enst  course,  about  80  miles,  when  it  joins  the  Pamunky  river,  and 
forms  York  river.     It  is  navigable  to  Downer's  bridge,  70  miles 
above  its  mouth.f     About  IB  miles  from  this  river,  wc  travelled 
through  a  country  nearly  similar  to  that  described,  but  tlie  soil 
rather  sandy,    to  Pamunky  river.     This  river  is  formed  by  the 
north  and  south  Anna  rivers,  which  rise  in  the  north-west,   about 
50  or  60  miles  distant,  and  form  a  junction  about  15  miles  above 
where  we  crossed.     From  thence  it  holds  a  south-east  course,  but 
with  many  windings,  about  50  miles,  when  it  forms  the  junction 
with  Mattapony  river  aforesaid.     It  is  navigable  for  boats  about 
40  miles  above  where  we  crossed  it.     York  river  is  composed  of 
these  two  rivers,  and  widening  to  a  considerable  extent,  it  passes 
into  the  Chesapeak  bay,  by  a  channel  of  about  three  miles.  Y'^ork- 
town  is  situated  12  miles  up  this  river,  and  is  the  best  harbour  in 
the  state  for  vessels  of  the  largest  size.     "  The  river  narrows  to 
the  width  of  a  mile  at  York,  and  is  contained  within  very  high 
banks,  close  under  which  vessels  may  ride.     It  holds  tour  fathoms 
water  at  high  tide  for  25  miles  above  York,  where  the  river  is  a 
mile  and  a  half  wide,  and  the  channel  only  75  fathoms.     At  the 
confluence  of  the  Pamunky  and  Mattapony  it  is  reduced  to  three 
fathoms  deep.":}:    York  is  remarkable  as  being  the  place  where  the 
contest  with  Britain  was  decided  by  the  capture  of  lord  Cornwallis. 
After  crossing  this  river  we  passed  Hanover  court-house,  and 
the  road  proceeds  through  a  country  nearly  similar  to  that  already 
described,  24  miles,  to  Richmond,  the  capital  of  Virginia,  which 
we  reached  to  dinner.     In  our  way  we  passed  Falling  creek,  a 
branch  of  James  river,  after  which  the  country  improves,  and  is 
handsomely  settled.     The  day  was  very  clear,  and  we  had  at  one 
place  a  view  of  the  South-west  mountains. 


•  Jefferson's  Note*  on  Virginia,     f  Ibid.      \  Jefierwn's  Notck 


160 


TIAVELS   IN 


i  Ha 


HicHMOKD  is  handsomely  situated  on  James  river,  immediately 
below  the  falls.  It  is  a  large  elegant  city,  consisting  of  more  than 
1000  houses,  and  contains  about  8000  inhabitants.*  The  state. 
house  stands  on  an  eminence,  and  is  considered  the  handsomest 
building  in  the  state,  haying  spacious  apartments  for  the  mectiDg 
of  the  legislature,  and  commodious  rooms  for  the  transaction  of  the 
public  business  of  the  state.  The  other  public  buildings  are  the 
court-house,  jail,  and  theatre,  two  places  for  public  worship,  a 
freemason's  hall,  and  three  tobacco  warehouses.  Richmond  is 
situated  in  a  fertile  healthy  country,  and  is  well  supplied  with 
provisions  ;  and  it  is  flourishing  in  manufactures  and  commerce. 
There  is  an  armoury  in  the  neighbourhood,  said  to  be  the  best 
in  the  United  States.  The  city  is  remarkably  well  situated  for 
mill-seats ;  some  of  the  finest  flour-mills  in  the  state  have  lately 
been  erected,  and  the  quantity  of  flour  manufactured  annually  is 
immense.  There  are  also  rolling  and  slitting-mills,  oil-mills,  and 
several  others;  and  several  extensive  difttilleries  and  breweries, 
Richmond  carries  on  a  considerable  trade,  principally  in  to- 
bacco and  flour,  with  many  places  of  the  United  States,  particu* 
larly  New  York,  which  in  return  supplies  it  with  dry  goods  and 
groceries,  The  inhabitants  hcre,like  those  in  the  sea-ports,  are 
mostly  dressed  in  British  manufactures,  and  are  very  gay.  They 
look  remarkably  well,  and  the  ladies,  of  whom  we  only  had  a  glance 
as  wc  passed  through  the  city,  appeared  very  handsome. 

Some  nails  in  my  portmanteau  having  given  way,  I  carried  it 
to  a  saddler  to  get  it  repaired ;  and  on  my  return  to  the  tavern,  I 
found  a  native  of  Perth,  to  whom  I  had  sent  a  message,  waiting 
for  me ;  and  what  with  conversation  about  the  place  of  our  nativi- 
ty, the  importunity  of  the  stage-driver,  and  the  humour  of  our 
merry  captain,  I  was  almost  short  shipt  of  a  dinner.  Having 
finished  my  repast  as  rapidly  as  I  could,  I  took  my  place  in  the 
Ktoge,  and  we  set  out  for  Petersburg, 

Several  of  the  passengers  had  left  us  at  Richmond ;  but  as  we 
took  up  two  or  three  gentlemen  who  were  returning  from  a  horse- 
race, the  stage  w^s  still  full ;  and  we  continued  our  regulations, 
which  our  new  members  assented  to  with  great  cordiality. 

On  leaving  the  city,  we  passed  James  River  by  a  long  wooden 
bridge,  at  which  each  of  the  passengers  had  to  pay  toll,  a  circum- 

»  By  the  census  «f  1810^  the  uiniber  p  9725. 


VIRGINIA.  161 

Stance  I   never  saw  before,   it  being  common  to  lay  the  toll  on 
the  carriage  only.    The  scenery  at  this  place  was  very  beautiful. 

James  River  is  one  of  the  most  important  in  the  state  of  Vir- 
ginia.   It  rises  near  the  Allegany  Mountains,  nearly  200  miles 
west  from  Richmond,  and  pursuing  a  course  to  the  eastward,  runs 
through  all  the  other  chains,  passes  Richmond,  and  receives  the  wa- 
ters of  the  Appomatox  about  25  miles  below  that  city.    From  thence 
it  exhibits  a  curious  appearance,  widening  and  contracting  alernate- 
ly,  and,  by  a  crooked  passage  of  about  70  miles,  fulls  into  Chesa- 
peak  Bay,  IS  miles  to  the  westward  of  Cape  Henry;  its  whole  length* 
including  its  windings,  being  upwards  of  300  miles.    The  principal 
tributary  streams  to  this  river  are  the  Rivannah,  on  which  is  Monti- 
cello,  the  seat  of  president  Jefferson,  the  Appomattox,  the  Chick- 
nhomany,  the  Nansemond,  and  the  Elizabeth,  on  which  last  is 
Norfolk.    *'  Tlie  whole  of  Elizabeth  River  is  a  harbour,    and 
would  contain  upwards  of  300  ships.     The  channel  is  from  150  to 
200  fathom  wide,    and,  at  flood  tide,    affords    18  feet  water  to 
Norfolk.     The  Nansemond  is  navigable  to  Sleepy  Hole  for  ves- 
sels of  250  tons ;  to  Suffolk  for  those  of  100  tons ;  and  to  Milncr'a 
for  those  of  25.   Chickahomany  has  at  its  mouth  a  bar,  on  which  is 
only  1 2  feet  water  at  common  flood  tide.    Vessels  passing  that, 
may  go  8  miles  up  the  river;   those  of  10  feet  water  may  go  4 
miles  further ;  and  those  of  6  tons  burden  20  miles  further.     The 
Rivannah  is  navigable  for  canoes  and  battcaux  22  miles,  to  the 
South'wcst  Mountains,  and  may  be  easily  opened  to  navigation 
through  these  mountains  to  its  fork  above  Charlottesville."* 

"  James  River  itself  affords  harbour  for  vessels  of  any  size  in 
Hampton  Road,  but  not  in  safety  through  the  winter ;  and  there 
is  navigable  water  for  them  as  far  as  Mulberry  Island.  A  40  gun 
ship  goes  to  Jamestown,  and,  lightening  herself,  may  pass  to 
Harrison's  Bar,  on  which  there  is  only  15  feet  water.  Vessels 
of250  tons  may  goto  Warwick;  those  of  125  go  to  Rocket's,  a 
mile  below  Richmond ;  from  thence  is  about  7  feet  water  to 
Riclunond;  and  about  tl^e  centre  of  the  town,  4^  feet,  where  the 
navigation  is  interrupted  by  falls,  which,  in  a  course  of  6  miles, 
descend  about  80  feet  perpendicular.  Above  these,  it  is  resumed 
in  canoes  and  batteaux,  and  is  prosecuted  safely  to  within  10 
miles  of  the   Blue  Ridge;    and  even  through  the   Ridge  a  ton 


•  Jefferson''*  Notes. 

21 


162 


TnAVBTJ   IN 


wciglit  has  been  brouglit ;  nnd  the  expencc  wotiltl  not  be  great, 
wrlien  eompiircd  with  its  objects,  to  open  a  tolerable  navigntion  up 
Jacicson's  River  nnd  Carpenter's  Creek,  to  within  25  miles  of 
Howard's  Creek  of  Oreenbriar,  both  of  which  have  then  water 
enough  to  float  vessels  into  the  Great  Kanhaway.  In  some  future 
state  of  popiihition,  I  think  it  possible  that  its  navigation  may  also 
be  made  to  interlock  with  that  of  the  Potomac,  and,  through  that, 
to  conmiunicnte  by  a  short  portage  with  the  Ohio,"* 

A  company  has  been  incorporated  by  the  state  for  improving 
the  navigation  of  this  river  with  a  capital  of  140,000  dollar^  of  which 
the  state  owns  50,000 ;  and  they  are  bound  by  the  charter  to  re- 
move all  obstructions,  so  as  there  may  never  be  less  than  12  inchest 
of  water  over  all  the  shoals  from  the  upper  end  of  the  lower  falls 
to  Pattonborough,  in  the  middle  of  the  mountains,  and  distant 
from  Richmond  upwards  of  200  miles.  The  company  have  pro- 
secuted  the  busines»  with  a  laudable  zeal,  and  have  expended  up- 
wards of  200,000  dollars  upon  it.  A  canal  is  drawn  from  the  river 
ut  the  upper  end  of  the  fulls,  and  proceeds  200  yards,  when  it  i» 
lowered  34  feet,  by  3  locks,  and  again  enters  the  river.  From 
thence  the  navigation  is  perfect  for  3  miles,  when  another  canal 
commences,  and  runs  3^  miles  to  a  basin  at  Richmond,  wheretlic 
navigation  terminates.  It  was  contemplated  by  the  charter  to 
continue  the  canal  to  the  tide  water,  but  the  plan  is  for  the  pre- 
sent suspended. 

The  basin  is  a  mile  and  a  halt  from  the  port  of  Richmond,  and 
is  80  feet  above  tide-water.  From  the  upper  end  of  the  great 
falls  to  the  basin  the  distance  is  G^  miles,  and  the  descent  48 
feet;  making  in  all  128  feet  descent  in  8  miles,  -' 

The  navifjation  of  the  river  from  above  the  falls  to  its  extremi- 
ty  among  the  mountains,  is  considered  better  than  that  of  any 
of  the  other  Atlantic  rivers;  and  it  may  be  observed  that  coal  i^ 
found  here  in  great  abundance,  a  circumstance  which  occurs  no 
where  else  in  the  vicinity  of  tide  water,  in  the  United  States. 

From  Richmond  we  travelled  25  miles  to  Petersburg,  where 
we  stopped  for  the  night.  The  country  I  could  see  but  partiall}') 
as  we  passed  a  considerable  jiart  of  it  in  the  dark.  "We  cn>s«c(l 
several  small  streams  in  our  way,  and  near  Petersburg  the  Appo- 1 
mattox  river  before  alluded  to.        '*^*    * 

This  river  rises  near  the  mountains,  and  is  in  length  upward* 


*  JelTerson's  Notes. 


VIRGIN14.  I^ 

of  100  miles  to  its  junction  with  James  river.  "  It  may  bo  na« 
viiratcd  as  fur  oh  Urondwa)r':i  by  uny  vcsvel  which  has  c  rottsetl  Har- 
rison's bar,  on  James  river.  It  keeps  ei^ht  or  ten  lec^  water  a  milo 
or  two  higher  np  to  Fisher's  bnr,  and  I'uur  feet  on  tJiat,  and  ii]>- 
wards,  where  all  navigation  ceases."* 

Pkteusburu  is  situated  on  the  aforesaid  river,  immediately  be- 
low the  falls,  and  is  a  place  of  considerable  wealth  and  importance, 
carrying  on  a  great  trade  in  tobacco  and  flour,  a  considerable 
portion  of  which  is  with  New  York.  The  population,  in  1800, 
was  2031  free  people,  and  ItSl  slaves,  liie  population  is  said 
to  be  composed  principally  of  Irish  people,  and  they  are  distin- 
guished  for  frank  liberal  manners,  and  high-spirited  })ntrioti!>ni. 

The  principal  public  buildings  are,  two  places  for  public  wor- 
ship, a  court-house,  jail,  and  freemason's  hall.  ^^  .; 

The  market  is  well  supplied  with  provisioni ;  and  there  arc  nu- 
merous mills  in  and  about  the  town. 

It  was  past  1 1  o'clock  at  night  before  we  arrived,  and  we  learn- 
ed that  the  stage  was  to  set  out  at  one  o'clock  next  morning.  We 
considered  it  therefore  entirely  useless  to  go  to  bed,  and  the  captain 
carried  me  to  see  some  gentlemen  of  his  acquaintance.  There  were 
six  or  eight  of  them,  all  agreeable  young  men,  most  of  them  Irish- 
men ;  and  the  captain,  being  intimately  acquainted  with  them,  was 
welcomed  with  much  afTection,  and  1  was  cordially  taken  by  the 
hand  as  his  friend,  for  whom  he  was  pleased  to  express  a  parti- 
cular regard.  They  had  a  violjn  in  the  room,  which  was  im- 
mediately adjusted  to  the  tune  of  the  Thistle  and  the  Shamrock f\ 
and  we  had  a  most  harmonious  concert  of  jigs  and  strathspeyst 
while  Yankee  Doodle  was  not  forgotten.  The  song,  the  senti- 
ment, and  the  toast  followed.  "  An  age  could  not  have  made 
us  better  acquainted,"  and  wc  united  in  opinion,  that  there  was 
no  country  on  the  face  of  the  earth  like  this,  where  people  of  all 
nations,  kindreds,  tongues,  and  languages,  could  with  such  hap- 
py facility  meet  and  harmonize  in  the  spirit  of  unity,  and  in  the 
bond  of  peace.  *'  But  pleasures  arc  like  poppies  spread."  We 
were  in  the  full  exercise  and  enjoyment  of  these  sentiments  when  we 
were  called  away  to  take  our  places  in  the  stage,  and  I  left  this 
little  liberal  circle  with  sentiments  of  fric»idly  regard. 

October  8,  at  one  o'clock,  wo  left  Petersburg.     At  this  early 

•  Jefferson's  Notes, 
t  Tho  reader  will  not  find  this  air  ia  any  of  tliu  inudurn  EnglLh  collections. 


hi 

hi* 


]64  ViRQiNIAii 

hour  we  could  see  nothing,  but  we  felt  that  the  country  was  liilly, 
and  the  road  very  rough.  By  the  time  the  day  dawned  upon  us 
we  had  travelled  about  20  miles,  and  the  country  appeared  pret- 
ty fertile;  we  saw  many  flourishing  fields  of  tobacco,  but,  in  con- 
sequence  of  the  long  and  severe  drought,  the  country  exhibited  a 
parched  appearance. 

At  33  miles  from  Petersburg  we  passed  Nottaway  river,  by  a 
wooden  bridge.  Tliis  river  rises  about  50  miles  above  where  we 
crossed  it,  and  running  &  south-east  course,  above  100  miles,  it 
forms  a  junction  with  the  Meherrin  river,  in  North  Carolina,  and, 
through  the'  medium  of  the  Chowan  river,  falls  into  Albemarle 
sound. 

At  37  miles  from  the  Nottaway  river  we  crossed  the  Meherrin. 
The  latter  part  of  the  distance,  the  country  was  much  improved, 
and  the  road  good.  We  now  occasionally  saw  some  crops  of 
cotton,  but  the  principal  produce  was  tobacco  and  corn.  The 
Meherrin  river  rises  about  60  miles  above  where  we  crossed  it, 
and  running  60  miles  more,  in  a  south-east  direction,  it  forms  a 
junction  with  the  Nottaway,  before  mentioned. 

About  12  miles  beyond  this  last  mentioned  river,  we  passed  the 
North  Carolina  line,  and  here  I  pause  to  take  a  view  of  the  great 
and  important  state  of  Virginnia.       ■ 


CHAPTER  XXXVI.  ^ 

Virginia. 

UEFORE  I  proceed  to  give  a  general  account  of  this  state,  I 
may  notice,  that  a  most  important  service  has  been  rendered  to 
its  geography,  by  the  publication  of  the  Notes  of  Mr.  Jefferson ; 
ft  work  replete  with  valuable  information,  and  exhibiting  in  every 
page  the  marks  of  a  vigorous  intellect  and  a  philosophic  mind. 
This  work  may  be  justly  considered  as  the  basis  of  the  geography 
of  the  state  of  Virginia ;  and  though,  from  the  progressive  nature 
of  the  subject,  it  does  not  now  contain  the  necessary  informa- 
tion, on  some  points,  yet  the  ttaveller  in  this  state  will  find  it 
a  most  valuable  companion ;  and  by  giving  it  a  careful  perusal, 
will  be  amply  rewarded  for  his  trouble. 
"  The  Notes  were  written  in  the  year  1781,   and  somewhat 


VIRGINIA.  165 

corrected  and  enlarged  in  1782,  in  answer  to  queries  proposed  to 
the  author,  by  a  foreigner  of  distinction  (M.  de  Marbois,  secre- 
tary of  the  French  legation,)  then  residing  in  America."     The 
work  is  arranged  on  the  following  plan. 
«1  Boundaries.  13  Constitution. 

2  Rivers.      '  •  14<  Luws. 

3  Sea-ports.       '  "'  15  Colleges,  buildings,  and  roads. 

4  Mountains.  "  16  Proceedings  as  to  tories. 

5  Cascades.  17  Religion. 

6  Productions,  mineral,  vegeta- 18  Manners. 

ble,  and  animal.  19  Manufactures. 

7  Climate.  20  Subjects  of  commerce. 

8  Population.  21  Weights,  measures,  and  money. 

9  Military  force.  22  Public  revenue. 

10  Marine  force.  23  Histories,  memorials,  and  state 

11  Aboiigines.  '  papers." 

12  Counties  and  towns.        •  .       - 

With  three  numbers  of  an  Appendix. 

It  is  from  this  valuable  work  that  the  facts  exhibited  in  tho 
following  short  sketch  are  chiefly  taken ;  and  wherever  the  brevi- 
ty of  the  subject  would  admit,  I  have  given  them  in  Mr.  Jeffer- 
son's own  elegant  language,  although  I  have  adhered  to  my  ori- 
ginal arrangement  of  the  various  subjects.  It  may  be  observed 
here,  that  since  Mr.  Jefferson's  Notes  were  compiled,  Kentucky 
has  been  formed  into  a  separate  state,  which  makes  a  material  al- 
teration in  the  dimensions  of  the  state  of  Virginia.  . 

Virginia  is  situated  between  36°  30'  and  39°  43'  north  latitude, 
and  1°  east,  and  6°  25'  west  longitude.  The  extreme  length  of  the 
state  from  east  to  west  is  442  miles,  and  the  extreme  breadth 
from  the  North  Carolina  line  to  the  Pennsylvania  line  is  235 1 
but  it  may  be  observed  that  there  is  a  small  part  of  the  state  that 
stretches  along  the  banks  of  the  Ohio,  to  the  west  of  Pennsylvania, 
about  60  miles  long,  and  on  an  average  10  broad;  and  there  is 
another  small  part,  about  55  miles  long  and  12  broad,  to  the 
east  of  the  Chesapeak.  The  area  is  computed  at  70,500  square 
miles,  being  nearly  as  large  as  the  whole  island  of  Britain,  com- 
puted at  77,24C.     The  number  of  acres  in  Virginia  is  45,120,000. 

The  face  of  the  country  is  somewhat  assiniilated  to  Pennsyl- 
vania, including  Jersey,  Delaware,  and  Maryland,  The  eastern 
part  extends  along  the  iea  coast  alout  115  miles,  of  which  the  outlet 


W 


'I'KIII'i*^'^ 


166  TBAVELS   IN 

of  the  Chcsapeak,  already  noticed,  occupies  20 ;  and  this  elegiint 
confluence  of  waters,  so  often  referred  to,  forms  a  great  variety 
in  this  part  of  the  state.  From  the  sea  coast  to  the  head  of  the 
tidewaters,  about  100  miles,  the  country  is  mostly  leval,  anda- 
bounds  with  swamps.  From  thence  to  the  mountains  it  is  agree- 
ably uneven,  and  affords  delightful  prospects.  Tlie  mountainous 
district  is  about  100  miles  in  breadth,  and  the  ridges  continue, 
AS  in  Pennsylvania,  to  range  from  north-east  to  south-west.  Be- 
yond  the  mountains  the  country  is  much  variegated — here  swell. 
ing  out  into  considerable  hills, — there  subsiding  into  agreeable 
valleys ;  and  so  contiimes  to  the  Ohio,  about  GO  miles.  The  Al- 
legany chain  is  the  ridge  which  divides  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic 
from  the  Mississippi,  and  its  summit  is  more  elevated  above  the 
ocean  than  that  of  the  others :  but  its  relative  lieight,  compared 
with  the  base  on  which  it  stands,  is  not  so  great,  because  the 
country  rises  behind  the  successive  ridges  like  steps  of  stairs.  The 
most  elevated  point  does  not  exceed  4000  feet,  and  few  aiuouiit 
to  more  than  2500.  • 

The  whole  of  the  Atlantic  rivers  have  been  already  noticed ; 
the  others  are  but  few.  The  state  is  watered  to  the  westward  by 
the  Ohio  upwards  of  240  miles,  and  the  Great  Sandy  river  forms 
the  boundary,  for  upwards  of  100  miles,  between  it  and  Kentuc- 
ky. The  most  important  river,  to  the  westward,  is  the  Great 
Kanhaway,  "  a  river  of  considerable  note  for  the  fertility  of  its 
lands,  and  still  more,  as  leading  towards  the  head  waters  of  James 
river.  Nevertheless,  it  is  doubtful  whether  its  great  and  numer- 
ous falls  will  admit  a  navigation  but  at  an  expence  to  which 
it  will  require  ages  to  render  its  inhabitants  equal.  The  great 
obstacles  begin  at  what  are  called  the  great  falls,  90  miles  above 
its  mouth,  below  which  are  only  5  or  6  rapids,  and  these  passa- 
ble, with  some  difficulty,  even  at  low  water.  From  the  falls  to 
the  mouth  of  Greenbriar  is  100  miles,  and  thence  to  the  lead 
mines  120.     It  is  280  yards  wide  at  its  mouth."* 

*'The  little  Kanhaway  is  150  yards  wide  at  the  mouth,  and  is 
navigable  lor  10  miles  only."f 

The  Shenandoah  river  rises  in  the  interior  of  the  country,  and 
running  a  north-east  course,  of  about  250  miles,  through  the 
great  Limestone  valley,  parallel  to  the  mountains,  falls  into  the 


•  Jeflcrsoh-s  Notes. 


t  Ibid. 


l,^  'ii 


I 


VIRGINIA.  167 

Potomac  just  above  the  Blue  Ridge.  The  junction  of  the  rivers, 
and  the  passage  through  the  Blue  Ridge  is  snid  to  be  one  of  the 
finest  scenes  in  nature,  and  is  thus  elegantly  described  by  Mr.  Jef- 
ferson. "  You  stand  on  a  very  high  point  of  land.  On  your  right 
comes  up  tlie  Shenandoah,  having  ranged  along  the  ^oot  of  the 
mountain  an  hundred  miles  to  seek  a  vent.  On  your  left  approaches 
the  Potomac,  in  quest  of  a  passage  also. — In  the  moment  of  their 
junction  they  rush  together  against  the  mountain,  rend  it  asunder, 
and  pass  off  to  the  sea. 

"  The  first  glance  of  this  scene  hurries  our  senses  into  the  opi* 
nion  that  this  earth  has  been  created  in  time ;  that  the  mountains 
were  formed  first ;  that  the  rivers  began  to  flow  afterwards ;  that, 
in  this  place  particularly,  they  have  been  dammed  up  by  the  Blue 
Ridge  of  mountains,  and  have  formed  an  ocean  which  filled  the 
whole  valley  ;  that  continuing  to  rise,  they  have  at  length  broken 
over  at  this  spot,  and  have  torn  the  mountain  down  from  its  sum- 
rait  to  its  base.  The  piles  of  rock  on  each  hand,  but  particularly 
on  the  Shenandoah,  the  evident  marks  of  their  disrupture  and  avul- 
sion from  their  beds  by  the  most  powerful  agents  of  nature,  corro- 
borate the  impression. — But  the  distant  finishing  which  nature  has 
given  to  the  picture  is  of  a  very  different  character. — It  is  a  true 
contrast  to  the  foreground. — It  is  as  placid  and  delightful  as  that 
is  wild  and  tremendous. — For  thj  inountain  being  cloven  asunder, 
fihe  presents  to  your  eye,  through  the  cleft,  a  small  catch  of  smooth 
blue  horizon,  at  an  infinite  distance  in  the  plain  country,  inviting 
you,  as  it  were,  from  the  riot  and  tumult  roaring  around,  to  pass 
through  the  breach,  and  participate  of  the  calm  below.  Here  the 
eye  ultimately  composes  itself;  and  that  way  the  road  happens  act- 
ually to  lead. — You  cross  the  Potomac  above  the  junction,  pass  a- 
long  its  side  through  the  base  of  the  mountain  for  three  miles,  its 
terrible  precipices  hanging  in  fragments  over  you,  and  within  about 
20  miles  reach  Fredericktown,  and  the  fine  country  around  it. 
This  scene  is  worth  a  voyage  across  the  Atlantic ;  yet  there  are  peo- 
ple who  have  spent  their  whole  lives  within  half  a  dozen  of  miles* 
and  have  never  been  to  survey  these  monuments  of  n  war  between 
rivers  and  mountains,  which  must  have  shaken  the  earth  itself  to  its 
centre.*"  '  '  '  ■  ' 
"  The  only  remarkable  cascade  in  this  country  is  that  of  the  fal!- 


Jefferson's  Natas* 


i 


ii 


i"i 


'U 


r. 

illicit  J 

i.  tii 


I6S  VIRGINIA, 

ing  springs  in  Augusta :  it  is  a  water  of  James  river,  w^ere  it  is 
called  Jackson's  river,  rising  in  the  warm  spring,  and  flowing  into 
that  valley.  About  three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  its  source  it  falls 
over  a  rock  200  feet,  into  the  valley  below.  The  sheet  of  water  is 
broken  in  its  breadth  by  the  rock,  in  two  or  three  peaces,  but  not  ai 
all  in  its  height.  Between  the  sheet  and  the  rock  at  the  bottom 
you  may  walk  across  dry."* 

In  the  limestone  country  there  are  many  caverns  of  very  consi- 
derable extent.  "  The  most  noted  is  called  Madison's  cave,  andis 
on  the  north  side  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  near  the  intersection  of  the 
Rockingham  and  Augusta  line  with  the  south  fork  of  the  southern 
river  of  Shenandoah.  It  is  in  a  hill  of  about  200  feet  perpendicular 
height,  the  ascent  of  which,  on  one  side,  is  so  steep  that  you  may 
pitch  a  biscuit  from  its  summit  into  the  river  which  washes  its  base. 
The  entrance  of  the  cave  is,  in  this  side,  about  two-thirds  of  the 
way  up.  It  extends  into  the  earth  about  300  feet,  bA-anching  into 
subordinate  caverns,  sometimes  ascending  a  little,  but  more  gene- 
rally descending,  and  at  length  terminates,  in  two  different  place;, 
at  basins  of  water  of  unknown  extent,  and  which  I  siiould  judge 
to  be  nearly  on  a  level  with  the  water  of  the  river."  "  The  vault 
of  this  cave  is  of  solid  limestone,  from  20  to  40  or  50  feet  high, 
through  which  the  water  is  continually  percolating.  This  trickling 
down  the  sides  of  the  cave  has  incrusted  them  over  in  the  form  of 
elegant  drapery  ;  and  dripping  from  the  top  of  the  vault,  generates 
on  that  and  on  the  base  below,  stalactites  of  a  conical  form,  some  of 
which  have  met,  and  formed  massive  columns."! 

Another  of  these  caves  is  near  the  North  Mountain  in  Frederick 
county.  "  The  entrance  into  this  is  on  the  top  of  an  extensive 
1  idgo.  You  descend  30  or  40  feet,  as  into  a  well,  from  whence  the 
cave  then  extends,  nearly  horizontally,  400  feet  into  the  earth,  pre- 
serving a  breadth  of  from  20  to  50  feet,  and  height  of  from  5  to  I'i 
let't.  After  entering  this  cave  a  few  feet,  the  mercury,  which  was 
in  the  open  air  at  50°,  rose  to  57°  "X 

"  At  the  Panther  gap,  in  the  ridge  which  divides  the  waters  of 

the  Cow  and  Calf  Posture,  is  what  is  called  the  Blowing  cave.    It 

^  in  the  side  of  a  hill,  is  of  about.  100  feet  diameter,  and  emits  ecu- 

fctantly  a  current  of  air  of  such  force  as  .o  keep  the  weeds  prostrate 

for  20  yardi  before  it.     It  is  strongest  in  dry  frosty  weather,  am! 


|;       ■     ■•. ...  ;!■    t  ■'     -S         'Ml'! 


rmi'iW' 


*  Jv'fiM-Fgn'M  Notes. 


lb. 


\  It). 


VIRGINIA. 


1^9 


weakest  in  long  spells  of  rain."*      "  There  is  another  blowing  cave 
in  the  Cumberland  mountain,  about  a  mile  from  the  Carolina  line.'*f 

The  Natural  Bridge,  in  this  state,  is  one  of  the  most  sublime  of 
nature's  works.  "  It  is  on  the  ascent  of  a  hill,  which  seems  to  have 
been  cloven  through  its  length  by  some  great  convulsion.  The  fis- 
sure, just  at  the  bridge,  is,  by  some  admeasurements,  270  feet  deep, 
by  others  only  205.  It  is  about  45  feet  wide  at  the  bottom,  and  90 
at  the  top ;  this  of  course  determines  the  length  of  the  bridge,  and 
its  height  from  the  water.  Its  breadth  in  the  middle,  is  about  60 
feet  but  more  at  the  ends ;  and  the  thickness  of  the  mass,  at  the 
summit  of  the  arch,  about  40  feet.  A  part  of  this  thickness  is  con- 
stituted by  a  coat  of  earth,  which.gives  growth  to  many  large  trees. 
The  residue,  with  the  hill  on  both  sides,  is  one  solid  rock  of  lime- 
stone. The  arch  approaches  the  semi-elliptical  form,  but  the  larger 
axis  of  the  ellipsis,  which  pruld  be  the  chord  of  the  arch,  is  many 
times  longer  than  the  transverse.  Though  the  sides  of  this  bridge 
are  provided  in  some  parts  with  a  parapet  of  fixed  rocks,  yet  few 
men  have  resolution  to  walk  to  them,  and  look  over  into  the  a» 
bvss.  You  involuntarily  fall  on  your  hands  and  your  feet,  creep  to 
the  parapet  and  peep  over  it.  Looking  down  from  this  height  a- 
bouta  minute,  gave  me  a  violent  head-ach.  If  the  view  from  the 
top  be  painful  and  intolerable,  that  from  below  is  delightful  in  an 
equal  extreme.  It  is  impossible  for  the  emotions  arising  from  the 
sublime,  to  be  felt  beyond  what  they  are  here :  so  beautiful  an  arch, 
so  elevated,  so  light,  and  springing,  as  it  were,  up  to  heaveh  !  the 
rapture  of  the  spectator  is  really  indescribable.  The  fissured  conti- 
nuing narrow,  deep,  and  straight  for  a  considerable  distance  above 
and  below  the  bridge,  opens  a  short  but  very  pleasing  view  of  the 
North  Mountain  on  one  side,  and  Blue  Ridge  on  the  other,  at  the 
distance  each  of  th*  m  of  about  five  miles.  This  bridge  is  in  the 
county  of  Rockbridge,  to  which  it  has  given  name,  and  affords  a 
public  and  very  commodious  passage  over  a  valley  which  cannot 
be  crossed  elsewhere  for  a  considerable  distance.  The  stream  pass- 
ing under  it  is  called  Cedar  creek.  It  is  a  water  of  James*  river 
and  sufficient  in  the  driest  reasons  to  turn  &  grist-mill,  though  its 
tbuntiiin  is  not  more  than  two  miles  above.":}:  "* 

There  are  a  great  variety  or  minerals  and  mineral  springs  in  the 
state.    Iron  is  very  plenty,  and  several  mines  of  lead  have  been 


•  Jeffunon's  Notes. 


t  H». 


t  lU 


22 


170 


TIRGINIA. 


I.  <  '::■.  ki 


L 


1>! 


eypcned.  Some  copper,  black-lead,  and  precious  stone»  have  been 
found »  and  in  one  instance  gold  wait  discovered.  Limestone  is 
plenty,  and  coul  is  abundant  at  Richmond,  in  some  places  among 
the  mountains,  and  in  the  western  country.  Of  the  mineral  springs, 
the  warm  and  hot  springs,  and  the  sweet  spring,  are  the  most  re- 
markable. They  are  situated  near  the  sources  of  James  river,  at 
the  foot  of  the  Allegany  mountains,  about  42  miles  apart.  They 
are  now  well  known,  and  much  resorted  to.  There  are  sulphur 
springs  in  several  places ;  and  on  the  Kanhaway  river,  67  miles 
from  its  outlet,  there  is  a  very  remarkable  air  spring.  The  hole 
from  which  it  issues  is  of  the  capacity  of  30  or  40  gallons,  and  tlie 
currant  of  air  so  strong  "  as  to  give  the  sand  about  its  orifice  the 
motion  which  it  has  in  a  boiling  spring.  On  presenting  a  lighted 
candle  or  torch  within  IS  inches  of  the  hole,  it  flames  up  in  g 
.  column  of  18  inches  in  diameter,  and  4  or  5  feet  in  height,  'which 
sometimes  burns  out  within  20  minutes,  and  at  other  times  hai 
been  known  to  continue  burning  for  three  days,  and  to  have  been 
left  in  that  state.  The  flume  is  unsteady,  of  the  density  of  burn* 
ing  spirits,  and  smells  like  burning  pit-coal."*  *' There  is  a  simi- 
lar spring  on  Sandy  river,  the  flame  of  which  is  a  coluum  about 
12  inches  diameter,  and  three  feet  high. *'f 

The  soil  in  the  low  part  of  the  state  is  sondy,  except  on  tlie 
banks  of  the  rivers,  where  it  is  very  rich.  Between  the  head  of 
the  tide-waters  and  the  mountains,  it  exhibits  a  great  variety,  and 
A  considerable  portion  is  good.  Among  the  mountains  there  is  a 
great  deal  of  poor  land,  but  it  is  interspersed  with  rich  valleys. 
Beyond  the  mountains  the  soil  is  generally  rich  and  fertile. 

The  climate  of  Virginia  is  very  various,  and  is  subject  to  great 
and  sudden  changes.  In  the  greater  part  of  the  country  below  tlic 
head  of  the  tide- waters,  the  summers  are  hot  and  sultry,  and  the 
winters  mild.  From  thence  to  the  foot  of  the  mountains  the  air  li 
more  pure  and  elastic,  and  both  summers  and  winters  are  scveial 
degrees  of  temperature  below  the  low  couiitry.  Among  the 
mountains,  the  summers  are  delirhtful,  though  sometimes  the  heat 
is  very  great.  To  the  westward  the  climate  is  temperate,  the 
Bumineivs  being  cooler  and  the  winters  warmer  than  on  the  seu  coast. 
Except  in  the  neighbourhood  of  stagnant  waters,  in  the  low  couu- 
f/i  Virginia  has,  upon  the  whole,  u  healthy  climate. 


i 


•  JclTcrRon's  Notes 


t  I»>ui. 


Thef 
in  1610. 
of  Fowl 
dation  f 
the  Indi 
The  sam 
where  sli 
She  diei 
dcscenda 
ed  to  uj 
seven  de 
the  war 
1776,  an 
2  senator 

The  stj 
90  count 
persons, 
to  the  sqi 

There 
which  ha; 
cumstano 
gable  rive 
and  they  1 

Norfoll 
state.  It 
tants,  wh 
extended  < 
merce  an 
long  peril 
probably 
and  its  wa 
of  the  All 
expressed 
the  Chesa 
the  interio 
single  tow 
be  divided 
upon  thos( 
the  follow] 


II 


"N^r 


VIRGINIA. 


171 


ft  have  been 
imestonc  ig 
aces  among 
eral  springs, 
the  most  re- 
kes  river,  at 
3art.    They 
are  sulphur 
er,  67  miles 
The  hole 
3ns,  and  the 
,s  orifice  the 
ig  a  lighted 
nes  up  in  a 
eight,  'which 
er  times  ha> 
to  have  been 
sity  of  burn- 
ere  is  asimi- 
lolumn  about 

cept  on  tlw 
the  head  ot 
variety,  and 
ns  there  is  a 
rich  vallcvf. 
rtile. 

ect  to  great 
ry  below  tlic 
try,  and  the 
ins  the  air  is 
•s  are  scveval 
Among  the 
mes  the  heat 
ipcrate,  the 
.he  sea  const. 
lie  low  couu- 


I 


The  first  permanent  settlement  of  Virginia  was  by  the  English, 
in  1610.  In  1613,  a  Mr.  Rolf  married  Pocahontas,  the  daughter 
of  Powhatan,  an  Indian  chief,  and  the  connexion  was  the  foun- 
dation for  a  friendly  commerce  between  the  English  settlers  and 
the  Indians.  In  1616  the  culture  of  tobacco  became  general. 
The  same  year  Mr.  Rolf  and  his  wife  Pocahontas  visited  England,  ■ 
where  she  was  introduced  at  court,  and  treated  with  great  respect. 
She  died  the  year  following  at  Gravesend,  and  left  a  son,  whose 
descendants  still  survive  in  Virginia.  In  1618  the  colony  amount- 
ed to  upwards  of  60,000  v>eopIc.  In  1784-  Virginia  appointed 
seven  delegates  to  the  first  congress,  and  took  a  decisive  part  in 
the  war  for  independence.  The  state  constitution  was  framed  in 
1776,  and  was  the  first  in  the  United  States.  Virginia  now  sends 
2  senators  and  22  representatives  to  congress. 

The  state  is  divided  into  an  eastern  and  western  district,  and 
90  counties.  In  1800  it  contained  a  population  of  540,353  free 
persons,  and  34'5,796  slaves,  in  all  886,149;  being  upwards  of  12 
to  the  square  mile. 

There  are  no  towns  of  any  material  consequence  in  Virginia, 
which  has  been  attributed,  and  probably  with  reason,  to  the  cir- 
cumstance of  the  state  being  so  completely  intersected  with  navi- 
gable rivers,  that  a  market  is  brought  almost  to  every  man's  door, 
and  they  have  no  inducement  to  establish  large  cities. 

Norfolk  is  the  largest  town,  and  the  most  commercial  in  the 
state.  It  contained,  by  the  census  of  1800,  nearly  7000  inhabi- 
tants, which  have  since  greatly  encreased.*  It  is  a  place  of  very 
extended  commerce,  principally  in  flour  and  tobacco,  and  its  com- 
merce and  population  will  probably  continue  to  encrease  for  a 
long  period.  Mr.  Jefferson  remarks,  in  his  Notes,  *'  that  it  will 
probably  be  the  emporium  for  all  the  trade  of  the  Chesapcak  bay 
and  its  waters,  and  a  canal  of  S  or  10  miles  will  bring  to  it  all  that 
of  the  Albemarle  sound  and  its  waters."  The  same  sentiment  was 
expressed  in  conversation  with  me.  But  it  is  to  be  observed,  that 
the  Chesa^eak  bay  and  its  waters  are  navigable  a  long  way  into 
the  interior  of  the  country,  in  consequence  of  which,  probably  no 
single  town  or  city  will  be  the  emporium  for  all  the  trade ;  it  will 
be  divided  among  many.  We  accordingly  find  numerous  towns 
upon  those  waters,*  many  of  which  have  already  been  noticed;  and 
the  following  may  be  added. 


ij&i 


•JJy  tlie  census  of   ialO,   tlioy   iimount  to   9193. 


)73 


VIRGINIA. 


mm 


liif^li,  '   i 


m 


.  On  Rappahaimoc,  Urbanna,  Port   Royal,  Falmouth. 

On  Potomac  and  its  waters,  Dumfries,  Colchester,  Winches* 
ter,  Staunton.    . 

On  York  river  and  its  waters,  York,  Newcastle,  Hano^'er. 

On  James  river  and  its  waters,  Portsmouth,  Hampton,  Suffolk, 
Smithfield,  Williamsburg,  Manchester,  Charlottesville. 

There  is  no  very  important  town  in  the  western  part  of  the  state. 
Wheell.ig,  on  the  Ohio,  will  probably  increase  more  than  any  other, 

The  state  has  of  late  been  considerably  improved  by  roads,  but 
in  that  branch  much  yet  remains  to  be  done.  The  canal  contem- 
))lated  by  Mr.  Jefferson  between  the  waters  of  the  Chesapeak  and 
Albemarle  sound  has  been  cut.  It  is  16  miles  in  length,  and  an- 
swers a  most  valuable  purpose.  Considerable  improvements  have 
been  made  upon  the  navigation  of  the  Shenandoah  river ;  and 
there  are  several  very  important  roads  and  canals  projected.  As 
to  the  buildings,  Mr.  Jefferson  remarks,  "  The  genius  of  architec- 
ture seems  to  have  shed  its  maledictions  over  this  land.  Buildings 
are  often  erected  by  individuals  at  considerable  expence.  To  give 
these  symmetry  and  taste  would  not  increase  their  cost.  It  would 
only  change  the  arrangement  of  the  materials,  and  form  the  com- 
bination of  the  members.  This  would  often  cost  less  than  the 
burden  of  bai'barous  ornaments  with  which  these  buildings  are 
sometimes  charged.  But  the  first  principles  of  the  art  are  un- 
known, and  there  exists  scarcely  a  model  among  us  sufhciently 
chaste  to  give  an  idea  of  them.  Architecture  being  one  of  the  fine 
arts,  and,  as  such,  within  the  department  of  a  professor  of  the 
college,  according  to  the  new  arrangement,  perhaps  a  spark  may 
fall  on  some  young  subjects  of  natural  taste,  kindle  up  their  genius, 
and  produce  a  reformation  in  this  elegant  and  useful  art."  Great 
improvements  have  doubtless  been  made  since  the  year  1782,  par* 
ticularly  in  the  towns ;  but  in  the  country  the  houses  arc  mostly 
composed  of  wood,  and  few  of  them  that  I  saw  had  either  symme- 
try of  design,  or  elegance  of  execution  to  recommend  them. 
Upon  the  whole,  on  this  branch,  the  Virginians  seem  to  be  far  be- 
hind their  northern  neighbours,  and  there  is  still  much  room  for 
the  exercise  of  architectural  genius. 

The  great  mass  of  the  population  in  Virginia  are  farmers,  or, 
as  they  are  termed  hci'e,  ])lanters.  The  principal  branches  of 
agriculture  for  exportation,  arc  wheat  and  tobacco;  and  the  farms 
produce   in  plenty,  ludiiin  corn,  rye,    barley,    buck-wheat,    &c. 


VIAGINIA. 


173 


'■•4 


Hemp  and  flax  are  abundant,  and  considerable  quantities  of  cotton 
are  raised  in  the  southern  part  of  the  state.  Indigo  is  cultivated 
with  success,  and  the  silk-worm  is  a  native  of  the  country,  though 
not  much  attended  to.  The  fields  likewise  produce  potatoes,  both 
sweet  and  common,  turnips,  parsnips,  carrots,  pumpkins,  and 
groundnuts;  and  of  grasses,  there  are  clovers,  red,  white,  and 
yellow,  timothy,  ray,  greensward,  blue  grass,  and  crab  grass. 

The  orchards  abound  in  fruit ;  apples,  pears,  peaches,  quinces, 
cherries,  nectarines,  apricots,  almonds,  and  plums. 

The  domestic  animals  thrive  well,  horses,  cows,  sheep,  hogs, 
poultry ;  and  there  is  a  great  variety  of  wild  game. 

The  manufactures  of  the  state  are  mostly  of  the  domestic  kind. 
I  have  net  heard  of  any  established  upon  a  large  scale.  Jblcnce 
the  quantity  imported  annually  from  Britain  must  be  immense. 
The  principal  port  in  the  slate  being  Norfolk,  it  carries  on  a  vigor- 
ous trade  with  Europe,  in  the  surplus  produce  of  the  state,  and 
imports  largely  of  dry  goods ;  but  a  great  portion  of  the  trade  of 
the  ctate  is  carried  on  through  the  medium  of  other  places,  par- 
ticularly New  York. 

The  exports  of  the  state,  in  1805,  amounted  to  5,606,620  dol- 
lars, of  which  the  greater  part  was  domestic  produce;  but  as  no  part 
of  the  produce  sent  to  other  states  is  included  in  the  custom-house 
returns,  I  should  be  inclined  to  estimate  the  surplus  produce  at  nearly 
double  that  amount,  and  theur  imports,  principally  of  manufactures, 
at  nearly  as  much,   of  which  probably  one  half  is  from  Britain. 

The  Notes  on  Virginia  contain  ample  information  on  the  state 

'.  of  society.    Mr.  Jefferson  considers  that  it  is  materially  afFectsd 

by  the  existence  of  slavery.     "  There  must  doubtless,"  says  lie, 

4  "  be  an  unhappy  influence  on  the  manners  of  our  people  by  the 

I  existence  of  slavery  among  us.     The  whole  commerce  between 

master  and  slave  is  a  perpetual  exercise  of  the  most  boisterous 

passions,   the  most  unremitting  despotism  on  the  one  part,  and 

degrading  submissions  on  the  other.     Our  children  see  this,  and 

learn  to  imitate  it ;  for  man  is  an  imitative  animal.     This  quality 

is  the  germ  of  all  education  in  him :  from  his  cradle  to  his  grave, 

he  is  learning  to  do  what  he  sees  others  do.     If  a  parent  could 

find  no  motive,  either  in   his  philanthrophy  or  his  self-love,  for 

restraining  the    intemperance  of  passion    towards   his    slave,    it 

fcnould  always  be  a  sufficient  one  that  his  child  is  present.     But 

lj;eueraily  it  is  not  sullicient.     The  parent  stormsi,  the  child  looks 


174 


VIRGINIA. 


I    h\:. 


It 


mW. 


U-H 


on,  catchos  the  llnenttients  of  wrath,  puts  on  the  same  nirs  in  t)ie 
circle  of  smaller  slaves,  gives  a  loose  to  the  worst  of  passions,  and 
thus  nursed,  educated,  and  cokcrcised  in  tyranny,  cannot  but  be 
stamped  by  it  with  odious  peculiarities.  The  man  must  be  a 
prodigy  who  can  retain  his  manners  and  morals  undepravfd  by 
such  circumstances.  And  with  what  execration  should  the  states- 
man be  loudeil,  who,  permitting  one  half  of  the  citizens  thus  to 
trample  on  the  rights  of  the  other,  transforms  those  into  despots, 
and  these  into  enemies,  destroys  the  morals  of  the  one  part,  and 
the  amor  patruc  of  the  other.  For  if  a  slave  can  have  a  eountrv 
in  this  world,  it  must  be  any  other  in  preference  to  that  in  which 
he  is  born  to  live  and  labour  for  another;  in  which  he  must  lock 
up  the  faculties  of  his  nature,  contribute  as  iiir  as  depends  on 
his  individual  endeavours  to  the  enslavement  of  the  human  race, 
or  entail  his  own  miserable  condition  cm  the  endless  generations 
proceeding  from  him.  With  the  morals  of  the  people  their  indus- 
try also  is  destroyed.  For,  in  a  warm  climate,  no  man  will  la* 
bour  for  himself  who  can  make  another  labour  for  him.  Tim 
is  so  true,  that  of  the  proprietors  of  slaves  a  very  small  propor- 
tion indeed  are  ever  seen  to  labour.  And  can  the  liberties  of  a 
nation  be  thought  secure  when  we  have  removed  their  only  firm 
basis,  a  conviction  in  the  minds  of  the  people  that  these  liberties 
arc  the  gift  of  God  ?  that  they  are  not  to  be  violated  but  with 
his  wrath  ?  Indeed  I  tremble  for  my  country  when  I  reflect  that 
God  is  just ;  that  his  justice  cannot  sleep  for  ever ;  that  consi- 
dering numbers,  nature,  and  natural  means  only,  a  revolution  of 
the  wheel  of  fortune,  and  exchange  of  situation,  is  among  possi- 
ble events ;  that  it  may  become  probable  by  supernatural  inter' 
ference  !  The  Almighty  has  no  attribute  that  can  take  side  with 
us  in  such  a  contest. — But  it  is  impossible  to  be  temperate,  and 
to  pursue  this  subject  through  the  various  considerations  of  poli- 
cy, of  morals,  of  history  natural  ond  civil.  We  must  be  con- 
tented to  hope  they  will  force  tlieir  way  into  every  one's  mind.  1 
think  a  change  already  perceptible,  since  the  origin  of  the  present 
revolution.  The  spirit  of  the  master  is  abating;  that  of  the  slave 
rising  from  the  dust,  his  condition  inoUifying,  the  way,  I  hope, 
preparing,  under  the  auspices  cf  Heaven,  for  a  total  emancipation; 
and  that  this  is  disposed,  in  the  order  of  events,  to  be  with  the 
consent  of  the  masters,  rather  than  by  their  extiqoation."  a 
This  elegant  extracti  which  I  could  not  think  of  abridgingi 


VIRGINIA.  175 

doe?  honour  to  tlie  head  and   heart  of  its  author ;  nnd  it  is  pro- 
bable  from   the  great   reputation   which    he    iiolds    ajuong  hi4 
countrymen,  that  it  may  have  produced  a  considerable  effect  in 
assuaging  the  evils  of  slavery.     Virginia  has  long  since  prohibited 
the  importation  oi'  slaves,  and  has  by  her   members  in  congress, 
always  supported   the  question    for   a    total  prohibition   of  that 
branch,  the  most  odious  feature  in  it.     And  it  is  but  justice  hero 
to  observe,  that  the   introtluction  of  slavery  in  this,  and   in   the 
other  states,  was  a  part   of  the  policy  of  the  colonial  SYSTE>r. 
Had  it  not  unfortunately  taken   place  before  the   revolution,  it  is 
probable  it  never  would  have  taken  place ;  for  almost  every  person, 
with  whom  1  have  conversed  on  the  subject,  have  expressed  their 
opinion,  that  it  is  not  only  hurtful  to  public  morals,  but  contrary 
to  every  maxim  of  sound  policy.     But  it  exists  ;  it  is  incorporated 
with  the  whole  sytem  of  civil  society ;  its  influence  has  extended 
through  evrry  branch  of  domestic  economy ;    and  to  do  it  away 
must  be  a  work  of  time. 

There  are  two  colleges  in  the  state ;  one  of  them  the  college  of 
William  and  Mary,  very  liberally  endowed.  There  are  several 
academies,  and  schools  in  each  county ;  and  there  are  numerous 
teachers  in  private  families,  as  tutors.  The  means,  in  short,  for 
educating  the  wealthy  are  ample,  and  extensively  applied;  but 
the  sytem  seems  to  be  defective,  so  far  as  the  mass  of  the  people 
are  concerned,  and  that  important  branch  deserves  the  early  at- 
tention of  an  enlightened  legislature. 

At  the  period  of  the  revolution,  Virginia  being  the  first  state 
that  drew  up  a  new  constitution,  it  was  necessarily  crude  and  un- 
digested; and  much  of  the  old  leaven  remained.     The  subject  of 
religion,  in  particular,  was  not  placed   on  that  footing  of  perfect 
freedom  which  is  the  natural  heritage  of  man,  the  gift  of  nature's 
God;  and  the  subject  affords  Mr.  Jefferson  scope  for  the  following 
remarks:  "  By  our  act  of  assembly  of  1705,  c.  30,  if  a  person, 
brought  up  iu  the  Christian  religion,  denies  the  being  of  a  Cod, 
or  the  Trinity,  or  asserts  there  are  more  Gods  than  one,  or  de- 
nies the  christian  religion  to  be  true,  or  the  Scriptures  to  be  of 
divine  authority,  he  is  punishable  for  the  first  offence  by  incapa- 
city to  hold  any  office  or  employment,  ecclesiastical,  civil,  or  mili- 
tary ;  on  the  second,  by  disability  to  sue,  to  take  any  gift  or  lega- 
cy, to  be  guardian^  executor,  or  administrator,  and  by  three  yeari 
imprisonment  without  bail.     A  father's  right  to  the  custody  of 


■  US 


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Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)872-4503 


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his  own  children  being  founded,  in  law,  on  his  right  of  guardian- 
shipi  this  being  taken  away,  they  may,  of  course,  be  severed  from 
him,  and  put,  by  the  authority  of  a  court,  into  more  orthodox 
hands.     This  is  a  summary  view  of  that  religions  slavery,  under 
which  a  people  have  been  willing  to  remain,    who  have  lavished 
their  lives  and  fortunes  for  the  establishment  of  civil  freedom; 
The  error  seems  not  sufficiently  eradicated,  that  the  operations  of 
the  mind,  as  well  as  the  acts  of  the  body,  are  subject  to  the  coc^ 
cion  of  the  laws.      But  our  rulers  can  have  authority  over  such 
natural  rights  only  as  we  have  sul)mitted  to  them.     The  rights 
of  conscience  we  never  submitted,  we  could  not  submit.     We  nre 
answerable  for  them  to  our  God.     The  legitimate  powers  of  go- 
vernment extend  to  such    acts  only  as  are  injurious  to  othen 
But  it  does  me  no  injustice  for  my  neighbour  to  say,  there  are 
twenty  Gods,  or  no  God.     It  neither  picks  my  pocket,  nor  break 
my  leg.     If  it  be  said,  his  testimony  in  a  court  of  justice  cannot  be 
relied  on,  reject  it  then,  and  be  the  stigma  on  him.     Constraint 
may  make  him  worse,  by  making  him  a  h^'pocritej  but  it  will  never 
make  him  a  truer  man.    It  may  fix  him  obstinately  in  his  erron, 
but  will  not  cure  them.     Reason  and  free  inquiry  are  theonly  effe^ 
tual  agents  against  error.     Give  a  loose  to  them,  they  will  sup* 
port  the  true  religion,  by  bringing  every  false  one  to  their  tribunal 
to  the  test  of  investigation.     They  are  the  natural  enemies  of  error, 
and  of  error  onl}'.     Had  not  the   Roman  government  permitted 
free  inquiry,  Christianity  could  never  have  been  introduced.    Had 
not  free  inquiry  been  indulged  at  the  era  of  the  reformation,  the 
corruptions  of  Christianity  could  not  have  been  purged  away.    If 
it  be  restrained  now,  the  present  corruptions  will  be  protected, 
and  new  onts  encouraged.     Was  the  government  to  prescribe  to 
us  our  medicine  and  diet,  our  bodies  would  be  in  such   keeping 
as  our  souls  are  now.     Thus,  in  France,  the  emetic  was  once  for- 
bidden as  a  medicine,  and  the  potatoe  as  an  article  of  food.    Go* 
vcmment  is  just  as  infallible,  too,  when  it  fixes  systems  in  phf 
sics.     Galileo  was  sent  to  the  inquisition  for  affirming,  that  the 
earth  was  a  sphere.     The  government  had  declared  it  to  be  (i» 
flat  as  a  trencher,    and  Galileo  was  obliged  to  abjure  his  error. 
This  error,  however,  at   length    prevailed;    the  earth  became  a 
globe;  and  Descartes  declared,    it  whirled  round  its  axis  by  t 
vortex.     The  govenment  in  which  he  lived  was  wise  enough  to 
•ee  that  this  was  no  question  of  civil  jurisdiction,  or  we  should 


VIRGINIA.^  It7 

ail  have  been  involved  by  authority  in  vortices.     In  fact,  the  vor- 
tices have  been  exploded,  and  the  Newtonian  principle  of  grnvi* 
tation  is  now  more  firmly  established,  on  the  basis  of  reason,  than 
it  would  be  were  the  government  to  step  in,  and  make  it  an  arti- 
cle of  necessary  faith.     Reason  and  experiment  have  been  indulg- 
ed, and  error  has  fled  before  them.     It  is  error  alone  which  needs 
the  support  of  government.     Truth  can  stand  by  itself.     Subject 
opinion  to  coercion,  whom  will  you  make  your  inquisitors  ?  Fnlli- 
ble  men ;  men  governed  by   bad  passions,  by  private  as  well  as 
public  reasons.     And  why  subject  it  to  coercion  ?  To  produce  uni- 
formity.    But  is  uniformity  of  opinion  desirable  ?  No  more  than 
the  face  and  stature.     Introduce  the  bed  of  Procrustes  then,  and, 
ns  there  is  danger  that  the  large  man  may  beat  the  small,  make 
us  all  of  a  size,  by  lopping  the  former,  and   stretching  the  latter. 
Difference  of  opinion  is  advantageous  in  religion.     The  several 
sects  perform   the  office  of  a  censor  monim  over  each  other.     Is 
uniformity  attainable  ?    Millions  of  innocent   men,    women,   and 
children,  since  the  introduction  of  Christianity,  have  been   burnt, 
tortured,  fined,  imprisoned ;  yet  we  have  not  advanced  one  inch 
towards  uniformity.     What  has  been  the  effect  of  coercion  ?  To 
make  one  half  of  the  world  fools,  and  the  other  hypocrites ;  to 
support  roguery  and  error  all  over  the  earth.     Let  us  reflect  that 
it  is  inhabited  by   a  thousand  millions   of  people ;  that  they  pro- 
fess probably  a  thousand  different  systems  of  religion ;    that  ours 
is  but  one  of  that  thousand ;  that,  if  there  be  but  one  right,  and 
ours  that  one,  we  would  wish  to  see  nine  hundred  and  ninety-nine 
wandering  sects  gathered  into  the  fold  of  truth.     But  against  such 
a  majurity,  we  cannot  effect   this  by  force.     Reason   and  persua- 
sion are  the  only  practicable  instruments.     To  make  way  for  these, 
free  inquiry  must  be   indulged;    and  how  can  we  wish  others   to 
indulge  it,  while  we  refuse  it  ourselves  ?     But  every  state,  says  an 
inquisitor,  has  established   nome  religion.      No   two,  &ay  I,  have 
established  the  same.     Is  this  a  proof  of  the  infallibility  of  estab- 
lishments? Our  sister  states  of  Pennsylvania  and  New  York,  how- 
ever, have  long  subsisted  without  any  establishment  at  all.     The 
experiment  was  new  and  doubtful  when  they  made  it.      It  has  an- 
swered beyond  conception.     They  flourish  infinitely.     Religion  is 
well  supported ;  of  various  kinds,  indeed,  but  all  good  enough : 
all  sufficient  to  preserve  peace  and  order.     Or,    if  a  sect  arises, 
whose  tenets  v  ould  subvert  morals,  good  sense  has  fair  play,  and 

23 


178 


V&HGiKIA. 


i 


I' 

i 


reasons  and  laughs  it  out  of  doors,  without  suffering  the  state  to  be 
troubled  \vith  it.  Tliey  do  not  hang  more  malefactors  than  we  do. 
They  are  not  more  disturbed  with  religious  dissentions.  On  the 
contrary*  their  harmony  is  unparalleled,  and  can  be  ascribed  to 
nothing  but  their  unbounded  tolerance,  because  there  is  no  other 
circumstance  in  which  they  differ  from  every  other  nation  on  earth. 
They  have  made  the  lii^py  discovery  that  the  way  to  silence  reli* 
gious  disputes  is  to  take  no  notice  of  tliem.  Let  us,  too,  give  tbiii 
experiment  fair  play,  and  get  rid,  while  we  may,  of  these  tyrannical 

Jaws." 

Th«  experiment  has  been  tried,  and  has  succeeded. — An  act  pass- 
ed the  Virginia  Assembly,  in  the  beginning  of  1786,  in  which  it  it 
declared,  that,  being  "  well  aware  that  Almighty  God  hath  created 
the  mind  free ;  that  all  attempts  to  influence  it  by  temporal  punish- 
mcnts  or  burthens,  or  by  civil  incapacitations,  tend  only  to  beget 
habits  of  hypocrisy  and  meanness,  and  are  a  departure  from  the 
plan  of  the  holy  Author  of  our  religion,  who  being  Lord  over 
both  body  and  mind,  yet  chose  not  to  propagate  it  by  coercions  in 
cither,  &c. — Be  it  therefore  enacted  by  the  General  Assembly, 
That  no  man  shall  be  compelled  to  frequent  or  support  any  reli- 
gious worship,  place,  or  ministry  whatsoever,  nor  shall  be  enforced, 
restrained,  molested,  or  burthened  in  his  body  or  goods,  nor  shall 
otherwise  suffer  on  account  of  his  religious  opinions  or  belief;  but 
that  all  men  shall  be  free  to  profess,  and  by  arguments  to  maintain 
their  opinions  in  matters  of  religion,  and  that  the  same  shall  in  no 
wise  diminish,  enlarge,  or  affect  their  civil  capacities." 

The  following  are  the  outlines  of  the  form  of  state  government : 
"  The  executive  powers  are  lodged  in  the  hands  of  a  governor, 
chosen  annually,  and  incapable  of  acting  any  more  than  three  years 
in  seven.  He  is  assisted  by  a  council  of  eight  members.  The  ju- 
diciary powers  are  divided  among  several  courts.  Legislation  is  a. 
erciscd  by  two  houses  of  assembly,  the  one  called  the  House  of  De- 
legates, composed  of  two  members  from  each  county,  chosen  annu- 
idly  by  the  citizens  possessing  an  estate  for  life  in  100  acres  of  un- 
inhabited land,  or  25  acres  with  a  house  and  lot  on  it,  or  a  house  or 
lot  in  some  town.  The  other,  called  the  Senate,  consisting  of  24 
members,  chosen  quadrennially  by  the  same  electors,  who,  for  this 
purpose,  are  distributed  into  *24  dititncts.  The  concurrence  of  both 
houses  is  necessary  to  the  passage  of  a  law  :  they  i:ave  the  appoint- 
ment of  the  governor  and  council,  the  judges  of  the  superior  courts, 


VIRGINIA.'  179 

auditors,  attorney-general^  treasurer,  roister  of  the  land-office,  and 
delegates  to  congress."  -  '  •  '  '^  ^      *  ' 

I  have  bestowed  considerable  pains  to  make  myself  master  of  the 
(Tcography  and  political  importance  of  this  state,  because  from  its 
situation  and  extent  it  must  necessarily  have  a  great  influence  on  the 
body  politic  of  the  United  States.  It  i»  the  largest  state  in  the  U- 
nion,  and  has  given  two  presidents,  out  of  three,  to  the  United 
States.  It  is  geographically  central,  and  from  its  position  must  ne- 
cessarily include  or  be  contiguous  to  the  seat  of  the  general  go- 
vernment, while  the  states  remain  in  their  present  united  form.  Per- 
haps, too,  it  may  be  the  best  situation  for  forming  a  general  theory 
of  the  climate  of  the  United  States;  and  probably  Monticello,  the 
seat  of  Mr.  Jefferson,  may  be  one  of  tlie  best  positions  in  Virginia 
for  making  experiments,  and  contrasting  them  with  those  made  in 
other  places ;  and  Mr.  Jefferson  has  in  a  very  laudable  manner  a- 
vailed  himself  of  this  advantage. 

As  Mr.  Jefferson's  Notes  are  well  known,  and  may  be  considered 
as  containing  authentic  information  on  many  important  topics  re^ 
lative  to  this  his  native  state,  1  have  indulged  myself  by  making  co- 
pious extracts  on  th^  particular  subjects  to  which  they  had  refer- 
ence ;  and  I  shall  now  close  this  article  by  a  few  more  miscellane- 
ous subjects,  wLich  I  consider  not  only  as  valuable  in  themselves, 
but  very  important,  as  containing  Mr.  Jefferspn's  opinions  on  seve« 
ral  points  of  political  economy.  '  '.* 

On  Government, 

The  following  extracts  are  from  the  drafl  of  a  fundamental  con' 
stitution  for  the  commonwealtli  of  Virginia. 

"  The  said  state  shall  for  ever  hereafVer  be  governed  as  a  com- 
monwealth. 

"  The  power  of  government  shall  be  divided  into  three  distinct 
departments,  each  of  them  to  be  confided  to  a  separate  body  of  ma- 
gistracy"— legislative— judiciary — and  executive. 

"  The  legislature  shall  consist  of  two  branches,  the  one  to  be  call- 
ed the  house  of  delegates,  tlic  other  the  senate — and  both  the  ge- 
neral assembly.  -   ■- 

"  The  delegates  to  be  elected  annually ;  the  senators  biennially, 
and  one  half  to  vacate  their  scats  each  year.       ' 

"All  free  male  citizens,  of  full  age,  and  sane  mind,  who  for  one 
year  before  shall  have  been  resident  in  the  county,  or  shall  through 


in 


€'*;.;■;? 


1 


M 


M 


IBQ  VIRGINIA, 

tb«  wboW  of  tliat  time  liavc  pouesscd  therein  real  property  of  the 
value  of  ,  or  shall  for  the  same  time  have  been  enrolled  in  the 

militia,  and  no  others,  shall  have  a  right  to  vote  for  delegates  t'ur 
tlie  said  county,  and  for  senatorial  electors  for  the  district.  They 
shall  give  tlicir  votes  jiersonally,  and  viva  voce.        ,-.-... 

"  The  executive  power  shall  be  exercised  by  a  governor,  who 
shidlbe  cIiQsen  by  joint  ballot  of  both  houses  of  assembly,  and  when 
chosen  sliall  remain  in  ofhce  five  years,  and  be  ineligible  a  second 
time. 

"  A  council  of  state  shall  be  chosen  by  joint  ballot  of  both  houses 
of  assembly,  who  shall  hold  their  ofKces  seven  years,  and  be  incligi' 
ble  a  second  time.  Their  duty  shall  be  to  attend  and  advise  the  go* 
vernor :  they  shall  annually  choose  a  president,  who  shall  preside 
in  cpuncil  in  absence  of  the  governor,  and  who,  in  case  of  his  office 
becoming  vacant  by  death,  or  otherwise,  shall  have  authority  to  ex- 
orcisc  all  his  functions,  till  a  new  appointment  be  made. 
'  "  The  judiciary  shall  be  exercised  by  county  courts,  and  such  o- 
tlier  interior  courts  as  the  legislature  shall  think  proper  to  continue 
or  to  erect;  by  three  superior  courts,  to  wit,  a  court  of  admiralty, 
a  general  court  of  common  law,  and  a  high  court  of  chancery ;  and 
by  one  supreme  court,  to  be  called  the  court  of  appeals. 

"  The  governor,  two  counsellors  of  state,  and  a  judge  from  each 
of  the  superior  courts  of  chancery,  common  law  and  admiralty,  shall 
be  a  council  to  revise  all  bills  which  shall  have  passed  both  houses  of 
assembly. 

"  The  military  shall  be  subordinate  to  the  civil  power. 

*'  Printing  presses  shall  be  subject  to  no  other  restraint  than  11- 
ablencss  to  legal  prosecution  for  false  facts  printed  and  published." 

"  On  the  Impoiiation  of  Foreigners. 

7  "  But  are  there  po  inconvenicncies  to  be  thrown  into  the  scale  a- 
gainst  the  advantage  expected  from  a  multiplication  of  numbers,  bj 
the  importation  of  foreigners  ?  It  is  for  the  happiness  of  those  united 
in  society  to  harmonize  as  much  as  possible  in  matters  which  they 
must  of  necessity  transact  together.  Civil  government  being  tlie 
sole  object  of  forming  societies,  its  administvallon  must  be  eoniluct- 
ed  by  common  consent.  Every  species  of  gt>vernment  has  its  spe- 
cific principles.  Ours  perhaps  are  more  peculiar  than  those  of  any 
otll^;*  in  the  universe.  It  is  a  composition  of  the  freest  principles 
of  the  EngUsh  constitution,  with  others  derived  from  natural  rig^' 


VIRGINIA.  181 

ajid  natural  rcasoD.      1  o  these  nothiii*^  can  be  more  opposed  tliaii 
tlie  maxims  of  absolute  monarchies.      Yet  from  such  we  urc  to  cx- 
ixxt  the  greatest  number  of  cmi<{rant8.     They  will  hr'uv^  with  theni 
the  principles  of  the  govenimcnts  they  leave,  imbibed  in  their  early 
youth  ;  or  if  able  to  throw  tlicni  offi  it  will  be  in  exchange  for  an 
unbounded  licentiousness,  parsing,  as  is  usual,  from  one  extreme  to 
another.     It  would  be  n  miracle  were  thry  to  stop  precisely  at  the 
iioiut  of  temperate  liberty.      These  principles,  with  their  language, 
they  will  transmit  to  their  children.      In  proportion  to  their  num- 
bers, they  will  share  with  us  the  legislation.     They  will  infuse  into 
it  their  spirii,  warp  and  bias  its  direction,  and  render  it  a  heteroge- 
neous, incoherent,  distracted  mass.      I  may  appeal  to  experience 
(luring  the  present  contest,   for  a  verification  of  these  conjectures." 
After  a  few  other  reflections,  Mr.  Jefferson  adds — "  If  they  come 
of  themselves,  they  are  entitled  to  all  the  rights  of  citizenship;  but 
I  doubt  the  expediency  of  inviting  them  by  extraordinary  encou- 
ragements.     I  mean  not  that  these  doubts  should  extend  to  useful 
artificers.      The  policy  of  that  measure  depends  on  very  different 
considerations.     Spare  no  expense  in  obtaining  them.     They  will 
after  a  while  go  to  the  plough  and  the  hoc ;  but,  in  the  mean  time, 
they  will  teach  us  something  we  do  not  know.     It  is  not  so  in  agri- 
culture: the  different  state  of  that  among  us  does  not  proceed  from 
a  vrant  of  knowledge  merely ;  it  is  from  our  having  such  quantities 
of  land,  to  waste  as  we  please.    In  Europe  the  object  is  to  make  the 
most  of  their  land — labour  being  abundant :  here,  it  is  to  make  the 
most  of  our  labour — land  being  abundant."  *  ,•    .-  , 


On  Manufactures,    Agriculture,    and  Commerce. 


>  t 


i  I' 


"  We  never  had  an  interior  trade  of  any  importance.  Our  ex- 
terior commerce  has  suffered  very  much  from  the  beginning  of  the 
present  contest.  During  this  time  we  have  manufactured  within 
our  families  the  most  necessary  articles  of  clothing.  Those  c£ 
cotton  will  bear  some  comparison  with  the  same  kinds  of  manufac- 
ture in  Europe ;  but  those  of  wool,  flax,  and  hemp  are  very  coarse^ 
unsigiitly,  and  unpleiusant :  and  such  is  our  attachment  to  agricul- 
ture, and  such  our  preference  for  foreign  manufactures,  that,  be  it 
wise  or  unwise,  our  people  will  certainly  return  as  soon  as  they 
can,  to  the  raising  raw  materials,  and  exchanging  them  for  finer 
manufactures  than  they  are  able  to  execute  themselves.  »«  • »"  «•♦ 
"  The  political  economists  of  Europe-  have  established  it  as  a. 


hi 


182  VIRGINIA. 

principle  that  every  state  should  endeavour  to  manufacture  fur 
itself;  and  this  principle,  like  many  others,  we  transfer  to  Amcri. 
ca,  without  calculating  the  diiTcrence  of  circumstance  which  should 
often  produce  a  different  result.  In  Envopc,  the  lands  arc  citlier 
cultivated,  or  locked  up  against  the  cultivator.  Manufacture  most 
therefore  be  resorted  to  of  necessity,  not  of  choice,  to  support  the 
surplus  of  their  people.  But  we  have  an  immensity  of  land,  court- 
ing the  industry  of  the  husbandman.  Is  it  best  then  that  all  our  citi- 
zens should  be  employed  in  its  improvement,or  that  one  half  Hhonld 
be  called  off  from  that  to  exercise  manufactures  and  handicraft 
arts  for  the  other  ?  Those  who  labour  in  the  earth  are  the 
CHOSEN  PEOPLE  OF  GoD,  if  cvcr  he  had  a  chosen  people,  whose 
breasts  he  has  made  his  peculiar  deposit  for  substantial  and  genuine 
virtue.  It  is  the  focus  in  which  he  keeps  alive  that  sacred  fire, 
which  otherwise  might  escape  from  the  face  of  the  earth.  Corrup- 
tion of  morals  in  the  mass  of  cultivators,  is  a  phenomenon  of  which 
no  age  nor  nation  has  furnished  an  example.  It  is  the  mark  set 
on  those,  who,  not  looking  up  to  heaven,  to  their  own  soil  and 
industry,  as  does  the  husbandman,  for  their  subsistence,  depend 
for  it  on  the  casualties  and  caprice  of  customers.  Dependence  be- 
gets subservience  and  venality,  suffocates  the  germ  of  virtue,  and 
prepares  fit  tools  for  the  designs  of  ambition.  This,  the  natural 
progress  and  consequence  of  the  arts,  has  sometimes  perhaps  been 
retarded  by  accidental  circumstances:  but,  generally  speaking, 
the  prc^ortion  which  the  aggregate  of  the  other  classes  of  the 
citizens  bears  in  any  state  to  that  of  its  husbandmen,  is  the  pro- 
portion of  its  unsound  to  its  healthy  parts,  and  is  a  good  enough 
barometer  whereby  to  measure  its  degree  of  corruption.  While 
we  have  land  to  labour,  then,  let  us  never  wish  to  sec  our  citizens 
occupied  at  a  work -bench,  or  twirling  a  distaff.  Carpenters, 
masons,  and  smiths  are  wanted  in  husbandry ;  but  for  the  general 
operations  of  manufacture,  let  our  work-shops  remain  in  Europe. 
It  is  better  to  carry  provisions  and  materials  to  workmen  there^ 
than  to  bring  them  to  the  provisions  and  materials,  and  with  them 
their  manners  and  principles.  The  loss  by  the  transportation  of 
commodities  across  the  Atlantic  will  be  made  up  in  happiness  and 
permanence  of  government.  The  mobs  of  great  cities  add  just  so 
much  to  the  support  of  pure  government,  as  sores  do  to  the  strength 
of  the  human  body.  It  is  the  manners  and  spirit  of  a  people 
which  preserve  a  republic  in  vigour.  A  degeneracy  in  these  is  a 
canker,  which  soon  eats  to  the  heart  of  its  laws  and  constitution." 


KORTU    CABOLIKA. 


tb3 


CHAPTER  XXXVIl. 


Warreiiton, — Raleig/iy — FayctteoiUe 


■  I   •      •  


Two  miles  from  where  w©  entered  the  state  of  North  Caroh'nOf 
we  crossed  the  Roanoke  river  by  a  flat* bottomed  boat.  The  banks 
where  we  crossed  were  steep  and  well  wooded ;  the  soil  rich  and 
fertile. 

The  Roanoke  is  composed  of  two  principal  streams,  the  Dan 
and  Staunton,  which  rise  in  the  mountains,  and  unite  in  the  state 
of  Virginia,  about  45  miles  above  where  we  crossed  it.  From 
thence  it  runs  a  pretty  crooked  passage,  but  nearly  south-east,  80 
miles,  to  where  it  falls  into  Albemarle  sound,  by  four  diflcrent 
channels,  near  the  outlet  of  the  Chowan  river.  It  is  navigable 
nearly  SO  miles  for  vessels  of  considerable  size,  and  for  boats  of 
from  20  to  40  tons  to  the  falls,  70  miles  from  its  mouth,  llie 
land  is  said  to  be  very  ridi  on  the  banks  of  this  river,  and  many 
wealthy  planters  live  on  it.     *  ;*':•'  •••  -,^ 

We  travelled  16  miles,  partly  alorg  the  banks  of  the  river,  to 
Warrenton,  where  we  stopped  for  the  night.  The  country  was  fer- 
tile ond  well  improved  ;  the  weather  cloudy  and  rather  cold. 

Warrenton  is  a  neat  little  town,  containing  about  300  inhabi- 
tants  who  look  well,  and  arc  said  to  be  mostly  Europeans.  The 
town  stands  on  a  high  dry  situation,  and  is  said  to  be  healthy. 
There  is  a  very  respectable  academy,  at  which  t  ere  arc  gcncrnlly 
60  or  70  students. 

Thursday,  October  9th.  We  left  Wnrrenton  at  5  o'clock  in  tha 
morning,  and  travelled  25  miles,  through  a  level,  sandy  country, 
to  Louisburg,  an  inconsiderable  village  on  the  banks  of  the  Tar 
river,  which  we  crossed  at  this  place.  *   *      '    "    "     ♦  ■f'^' 

Tar  river  is  a  considerable  stream,  rising  about  SO  miles  above 
where  we  crossed  it,  and,  running  about  150  miles  in  a  south  east 
direction,  falls  into  Pamlicoe  sound.  It  is  navigable  about  30 
miles  to  Washington,  and  from  thence  for  flats  to  Tarborough,  90 
miles  from  its  outlet. 

From  hence  we  travelled  1 G  miles,  the  country  sandy,  and  hav- 
ing a  barren  aspect,  but  the  road  pretty  good,  to  Nuse  river,  which 
v»e  passed  by  a  ferry. 

Nu»c  river  rises  about  40  miles  above  where  we  crossed,   and, 


•»^  -•'  1  ( 


.  V  •..iil/V 


184 


THAVRI.S    IN 


]t 


running  n  south-east  course  about  '2'2<)  niilcA,  itiUs  uIho  into  pHnili- 
coe  sound.  It  is  niivigable  tor  scu-vcssuU  12  miles  above  Ne\vlM>m, 
for  fluts  50  miles  further,  and  for  small  boats  nearly  'JOO  miles  IVuni 
its  outlet. 

About  ci^ht  miles,  tlirou;;!!  a  country  n  little  more  fertile  nnd 
better  improved,  we  reacheil  Ilnleigh,  and  here  we  stoppeil  for  the 
night.  The  princi])al  produce  in  the  country  through  which  wc 
passed  this  day,  is  cotton  and  Indian  corn.  The  weather  ua^ 
cloudy,  with  a  shower  of  rain. 

Ualeiuii,  the  seat  of  (government  of  North  Carolina,  is  hitii- 
ntal  in  north  latitude  35°  56',  and  is  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the 
state,  being  IGO  miles  from  the  sea-coast.  The  plan  of  the  cityi> 
regular,  the  streets  crossing  one  another  at  right  anglc>»>,  and  then 
is  a  large  square  in  the  niidiUc  for  the  public  buildings. 

Raleigh  contained,  by  the  census  of  1800,  334  free  persons  and 
835  slaves.  The  state-house  cost  above  15,000  dollar^.  Tlitri' 
fire  no  other  public  buildings  of  impottance,  and  the  greater  part 
of  the  other  buildings  being  of  wood,  the  place  exhibits  no  very 
flattering  appearance.  They  have  u  little  trade  in  cotton  und 
tobacco. 

Friday,  10th.  We  set  out  from  Raleigh  ot  4  o'clock  in  the 
morning.  The  passengers  had  now  all  dispersed  in  diflerent  di- 
rections, except  the  captain  and  myself.  We  had  the  stage  to  our- 
selves, and  were  as  merry  os  ever.  15»it  there  were  few  objects  ex- 
teriorly to  excite  attention,  or  elicit  remark.  The  country  was 
one  continued  dull  scene  of  sand  and  pine  barrens.  Now  and  tlieii 
we  passed  a  few  piles  of  wood,  collected  for  the  purpose  of  innking 
tar ;  and  the  streams  we  cro'-sed  generally  looked  as  if  they  liud 
been  at  tar -making  too,  being  nearly  us  black  as  that  comnuHlityi 
The  elements  indicated  a  change  of  weather,  and  recollecting  the 
highiandman's  prognostication,  " lo7ig  fair  long  foul"  I  felt  bv 
anticipation  u  dreary  tail  to  my  journey  after  my  agreeable  friend 
would  leave  me,  ami  we  had  only  this  day  to  travel  in  company. 

In  this  mood  I  travelled  25  miles  to  Ulack  river ;  and  co  )tiiniin;; 
our  course  through  n  similar  coimtry,  we  came  to  a  small  pluce 
called  Avereysborough,  soon  after  which  we  passed  Cape  Fear 
river. 

Cape  Fear  river  is  the  most  considerable  stream  in  North  Ca- 
rolina. It  rises  about  100  miles  above  Fayetteville,  and  running 
a  south-east  direction,  upwards  of  200  miles,  falls  into  the  Atlan- 


NORTK    CAROLINA. 


185 


l>i 


tic  ocean,  at  Cape  Fear,  which  gives  it  its  name.  It  is  about 
three  miles  wide  at  its  outlet,  and  there  is  1 8  feet  on  the  bar  nt 
hiffh  water.  It  is  navigable  for  vessels  drawing  10  or  II  feet,  to 
Wilmington  ;  by  sloops  25  miles  above  \N'ilmington;  and  by  boats 
to  Fayetteville.  Hoving  crossetl  this  river,  we  procectled,  nearly 
along  its  western  bank,  35  miles  to  Fuycttcville,  which  wo  reoch- 
ctl  about  7  o'clock. 

Here  my  agreeable  travelling  companion,  who  was  a  very  ro- 
•iiicctablc  merchant  in  the  place,  invited  me  to  his  house,  and 
showed  me  every  degree  of  hospitality.  As  no  passengers  were 
going  on,  he  urged  me  to  spend  a  couple  of  days  with  him,  and 
as  an  inducement,  promised  to  introduce  me  to  a  Scots  highlander, 
who  played  delightfully  on  the  bagpipes.  I  was,  however,  urgent 
to  be  home,  and  resisted  all  entreaty.  But  finding  that  my  funds 
would  not  hold  out  till  I  reachc(t  Charleston,  I  availed  myself  of 
his  friendship  to  get  a  small  supply,  till  I  could  remit  fr^m  thence, 
with  which  having  furnished  me,  together  with  letter^-  of  introduc- 
tion to  some  of  his  friends  in  that  city,  we  parted  with  mutual 
good  wishes. 

F«j/^/m//^  contains  about  1800  inhabitants,  is  a  place  of  con- 
siderable trade,  and  is  rising  in  wealth  and  importance.  The 
public  buildings  are  handsome ;  and  there  are  a  considerable  num- 
ber of  mills,  distilleries,  breweries,  and  tan-yards.  The  principal 
proi'uce,  carried  to  Wilmington  market,  is  tobacco,  wheat,  flour, 
cotton,  flaxseed,  and  provisions.  *  ■? 

The  country  round  Fayetteville  is  generally  sandy,  but  there 
are  rich  lands  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  the  country  is  esteem- 
ed pretty  healthy.  A  great  many  emigrants  from  Scotland  arc 
settled  in  the  neighbourhood. 

Saturday,  11th.  The  stage  started  this  morning  at  5  o'clock, 
and  I  was  the  only  passenger.  The  country  liecamc  more  anil 
more  dismal,  and  was  very  thinly  inhabitetl.  The  day  was  rainy, 
damp,  and  disagreeable ;  the  creeks  swelled  beyond  their  natural 
limits,  which  made  crossing  very  diflicult ;  and  the  people  looked 
pale  and  sickly.  Every  thing  conspired  to  throw  me  into  a  gloomy 
reverie.  At  one  creek  we  found  the  bridge  so  shattered,  that  we 
had  to  unloose  the  horses  and  drag  over  the  stage.  On  reaching 
Lumberton,  33  miles  from  Fayetteville,  we  stopped  for  the  night, 
at  the  house  of  a  very  intelligent  and  inqjn'siiive  Yankee.    , 

2*  »^         • 


1S6 


1HAVEL4    IN 


' 


Luinbcrtnn,  lie  told  nic,  coiibihtetl  of  33  Iiousch,  and  contained 
IGt  nhite  pcopli',  und  it  blacks,  lie  suid  the  place  wqh  healthy; 
but  jinlgiiig  from  the  countenances  of  the  inhubituntsi  I  would 
hnve  thought  otiierwiso.  An  to  the  food,  it  did  not  suit  my  palate 
ttt  all.  ll  consistcnl  of  bacon  and  brown  brea<it  both  of  u  vcr} 
sable  colour,  und  ibr  drink  we  hud  tirw  peach  brandy  as  hot  ut 
pq)per. 

Sundoy,  1 2th.     It  is  customary  for  the  stage  to  stop  all  Sun. 
day ;  but  having  made  a  short  journey  yesterday,  in  conse(]uenci' 
of  the  badness   of  the  weather  and  rouds,    wo  had  to  make  up 
the  distance   this  day;    and   we  set  forward  on  our  journey  at 
9  o'clock.     The  country  became  still  more  dismal,  and  the  creek> 
were  more  swelled,  so  that  we  prosecuted  our  journey  with  great 
difliculty  ;  and  at  length  we  met  with  an  accident  which  provd 
fatal  to  one  of  the  horses.     We  came  to  a  creek,  with  a  bridge  in 
a  very  imperfect  state.     It  was  constructed  of  timber;  three  Inrge 
logs  were  stretcheil  across  the  creek,  called   sleepei's,  and  tlivae 
supported  a  number  of  mis-sha|i«n  pieces,  culled   ruders,  thrown 
on  at  random,  without  being  fixed  by  either  nails  or  pins.     They 
liad  been  disturbed  by  the  freshet  in  the  creek,  and  the  driver 
alighted  to  adjust  them.     Me  then  drove  on;  but  on  entering  the 
bridge,  the  fore-wheels  gathered  the  rafters  in  a  heap,  which  stop- 
ped the  progress  of  the  carriage;   and  this  happened  just  as  the 
driver  was  in  the  act  of  whipping  up  the  fore-horses.     They  sprung 
forward,  and,  disengaging  themselves  with  a  jerk,  by  pulling  out 
the  staple  of  the  main  swingletree,    they  set  oil  fidl  speed,  the 
swinglctrees  rattling  at  their  heels<     We  alighted,  took  out  the 
other  two  horses,  and  dragged  the  stage  over  ourselves ;  when, 
putting  in  the  horses,  we  moved  forward,    and  half  a  mile  from 
the  creek  we  found  one  of  the  fore-horses  lying  nearly  dead,  at  the 
side  of  h  tree.     It  appeared  that  one  was  stronger  than  the  other, 
and  hud  pulled  him  off  the  road   into  the  woods,  when,  dashing 
against  a  tree,  the  poor  animul  hud  got  his  death  blow.     I  calcu* 
lottid  that  the  bridge  could  have  been  put  into  a  substantial  state 
ibr  five  dollars ;    and  this  single  accident  would  be  a  loss  of  at 
least  150.  .      .   '  V 

.  A  few  miles  beyond  this  wc  reached  the  stace,  where  we  dined. 
Cur  dinner,  ns  at  Luniberton,  was  black  bacon  ,•  our  drink,  ties 
poach  brandy.  But  our  troubles  were  only  beginning.  A  uiile 
iioni  where  we  dined  wc  liud  to  cross  Ashpole  swamp,  about  one- 


NORTH    CAROLINA.  187 

third  of  a  mile  in  breadth;  ami  here  I  met  with  something  new. 
We  swam  across  in  the  Htago,  and  it  was  with  difficulty  that  I 
preserved  the  mail  from  n  very  complete  soaking.  When  I  ob- 
Mrvcd  the  forc-horses  plunge,  I  called  out  to  the  driver  whether 
we  must  swim  ?  "  O  yes,"  says  he,  "  swim  away  through  thick 
and  thin."  I  retjuested  that  he  would  remove  the  mnil  to  a  higher 
seat.  He  wns  not  for  losing  time.  I  insisted  I  might  be  allowed 
to  remove  my  trunk;  and  this  being  granted,  I  pre%'ailed  on  him 
to  assist  me  in  moving  the  mail  also :  which  having  done,  he  dash- 
ed right  through  the  creek. 

Soon  after  this  we  passed  the  boundary  line  of  South  Carolina, 
20  miles  from  Lumbcrton,  at  which  I  gladly  pause  to  take  a  gene- 
ral review  of  the  litate. 


CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 

North  Carolina 

Is  situated  between  north  latitude  33°  47'  and  36°  30',  and  l* 
east  and  6°  45'  west  longitude.  Its  greatest  length,  from  east  to 
west,  is  472,  and  its  greatest  breadth,  from  north  to  south,  is  188 
miles.    It  contains  50,500  square  miles,  or  32,320,000  acres. 

The  face  of  the  country  is  much  diversified.  To  the  east,  and 
south-east,  there  is  a  sea-coast  of  nearly  300  miles,  indented  with 
a  great  number  of  bays,  the  principal  of  which  are  Albemarle  and 
Pamlicoe  sounds,  which  receive  the  greater  part  of  the  rivers. 
On  the  outside  of  these  sounds  are  some  of  the  most  remarkable 
capes  in  America,  Cape  Hatteras,  and  Cape  Look-out,  t^nd  to 
the  southward  is  Cape  Fear.  The  whole  country  below  the  head 
of  tide  water,  about  100  miles  into  the  interior,  is  low  and  sandy, 
abounding  in  swamps,  and  presents  an  evident  appearance  of 
having  been  at  one  period  overflowed  by  the  sea.  The  country 
from  the  head  of  the  tide  waters,  towardsthc  mountains,  is  agree- 
ably uneven,  and  much  improved  in  value.  Among  the  mountains 
it  is  exactly  similar  to  the  state  of  Virginia;  biit  being  a  few  degrees 
to  the  south,  the  value  of  the  country  is  improved,  and  the  sea- 
suns  in  that  district  are  delightful* 

The  state  is,  upon  the  whole,  well  watered.  The  rivers  fall 
into  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  and  have  been  all  noticed,  except  somo 


ASB 


NQHTII   CiBOUfiUL. 


to  tlie  jouthward,  which  I  shall  have  to  cross  in  my  way  to 
Charleston. 

Jtis  supposed  that  this  state  is  well  supplied  in  valuable  iniius 
rah,  particularly  in  tlie  mountainous  district.  Iron  ore  is  vcrjf 
plenty,  and  gold  has  been  found  in  coniaderable  quantities.  Thcce 
are  various  mineral  springs. 

The  soil  of  North  Carolina  is  very  similar  to  that  of  Virj^iuia. 
The  low  part  of  the  state,  which  is  a  considerable  portion  of  it, 
is  low,  sandy«  and  barren,  abounding  in  pine  trees;  and  the 
swamps,  which  are  very  large,  produce  cedars  and  bay  trees. 
There  ore,  in  this  distinct,  good  tracts  of  meadow  land  along  tlie 
rivers,  which  are  well  cultivated,  and  produce  abundantly.  Frora 
the  head  of  the  tide  waters  to  the  mountains,  the  soil  improves, 
and  is  very  various.  The  mountainous  district  is  very  similar  to 
that  in  Virginia. 

The  climate  in  the  low  country  is  subject  to  great  and  sudden 
changes,  and  is  often  unhealthy  in  the  fall.  Generally,  the  win- 
ters are  mild,  but  very  changeable.  The  spring  is  early,  but  sub- 
ject to  occasional  frosts.  The  summers  are  hot  and  sultry,  and 
the  autumns  are  serene  and  beautiful ;  but  the  exhalations  frofn 
the  decaying  vegetable  matter  in  the  marshes  and  swamps  are 
very  injurious  to  health.  In  the  upper  country,  the  weather  is 
more  settled,  and,  being  free  from  swamps,  is  healthy.  Among 
the  mountains,  the  climate  is  remarkably  pleasant. 

The  history  of  the  first  settlement  of  North  Carolina  is  con- 
siderably lost  in  obfc'iurity.  In  1710,  it  contained  about  1200 
fencible  men,  when  the  first  permanent  settlement  was  made,  un- 
der the  direction  of  the  proprietors  of  South  Carolina,  in  1728, 
the  proprietors  having  sold  their  right  to  the  crown,  it  was  erected 
into  a  royal  government.  The  inhabitants  took  an  early  and  de- 
dsive  part  in  the  war  for  indq^endece,  and  the  state  suffered  very 
severely.  In  1774,  they  appointed  three  delegates  to  the  first 
con.'Tress,  and  adopted  a  state  constitution  in  1 776.  It  now  sends 
two  b'jnators  and  twelve  representatives  to  congress. 

The  state  is  divided  into  8  districts  and  60  counties.  The 
population,  in  1800,  was  478,103,  of  whom  133,296  were  slaves, 
being  upwards  of  10  persons  to   the  square  mile. 

The  state  has  made  considerable  improvements  in  agriculture, 
commerce,  and  national  wealth ;  but  it  exhibits  a  barren  prorpcct 


NOHTH  CAROLINA.  189 

to  ihc  traveller.  The  post  road  runs  tlu-ough  the  pooi'cst  part  of 
it,  and,  to  use  the  language  of  Mr.  Jcficrsoii,  "  the  genius  of  arch- 
itecture seems  to  have  shed  his  maledictions  over  the  land."  The 
buildings  are  mostly  of  wood,  some  of  thcni  painted,  and  sorae 
not;  and  they  exhibit  a  very  unsiglitly  appearance.  Like  Vir- 
ginia, there  are  no  large  towns,  and  there  seems  to  be  no  occasion 
tor  thum.  Mankind  arc  probably  better  accommodated  by  a 
great  number  of  small  towns  than  by  a  few  large  cities. 

Nrd<ba-n  is  the  chief  town.  It  is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Nuse  and  Trent  rivers,  on  a  level  point  of  land,  somewhat  rcsera* 
bling  Charleston,  South  Carolina ;  and  it  carrier  on  a  con&idera- 
ble  trade  with  other  places  in  the  stale,  and  the  West  Indies. 
The  iwjMilalion,  in  1800,  was  2167,  of  whom  above  one  half 
were  slaves. 

IVUminglon  is  the  most  commencial  town  in  the  state.  It  is  situ- 
ated at  the  junction  of  the  two  branches  of  Cape  Fear  river,  H't 
miles  from  the  sea,  and,  being  tlie  {>lace  of  dcj.ot  for  a  large 
back  country,  it  cai'rics  on  considerable  trade,  foreign  aiul  domes- 
tic. The  town  contains  about  1700  inliabitants.  The  houses  are 
mostly  built  of  wood,  and  the  town  has  suHored  severely  irofii 
fire  at  various  times. 

Edmtonf  on  Albemarle  Sound,  is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  m 
the  state,  and  was  formerly  the  seat  of  the  royal  governors.  It  ia 
favourably  situated  for  trade,  but  is  low  and  unhealthy.  It  con- 
tains about  750  inhabitants. 

Raleigh  and  Fayetteville  have  been  noticed.  The  others  of 
most  note  are  Washington^  Tarborotighy  and  Hillsborough,  on  the 
Tar  river;  Halifax,  on  the  Roanoke;  Salem,  on  the  Yadkin; 
Morgantown,  on  the  Catawba ;  and  Bcaiiford,  near  Cape  Look- 
out. The  population  of  these  places  is  from  about  300  to  700,; 
aad  tlicrc  are  mn^iy  villages  ^xmtaining  from  100  to  300. 

The  roads  and  bridges  arc  yet  in  an  imperfect  state,  and  much 
remains  to  be  done  to  make  travellii^  comfortable. 

The  inhabitants  arc  mostly  farmers,  and  produce  on  their  farjns 
every  nccet^ary  of  life.  The  principal  commodities  for  sale  are 
tar,  tur})cntine,  pitch,  rosin,  tinibcr,  bees- wax,  com,  cotton,  and  to- 
bacco. Almost  every  iamily  in  the  country  manufacture  IImmt 
own  clulliiDg,  so  that  the  Briti&h  trade  to  this  state  is  not  great* 
HOT  importaot.     The  greater  part  of  it  i&  carried  on  throiigh  th« 


190 


TRAVELS    IN 


medium  of  Charleston,  or  the  northern  states.  The  direct  ex- 
ports amounted,  in  1805,  to  779,903  dollars.  ' 

The  state  of  society  is  somewhat  similar  to  Virginia.  Many  of 
the  planters  are  wealthy,  frank,  and  hospitable ;  and  considerable 
efforts  hare  been  made  to  place  education  on  a  respectable  foot- 
ing. A  university  has  been  founded,  and  endowed  by  the  state; 
and  there  are  several  respectable  academies.  But  the  most  im- 
portant branch,  that  which  has  for  its  object  the  general  diffu. 
sion  of  knowledge,  has  been  neglected  until  of  late.  In  1808, 
however,  an  act  passed  the  legislature  to  establish  common  schools 
throughout  the  state,  which,  if  followed  up,  will  produce  good 
effects. 

The  legislative  authority  is  vested  in  a  senate  and  house  of  com- 
mons, together  styled  the  General  Assembly,  and  chosen  annual- 
ly. Senators  must  be  possessed  of  300  acres  of  land ;  represen- 
tatives  of  100.  The  electors  of  senators  must  be  possessed  of  50 
acres  of  land ;  and  of  representatives  a  freehold  in  some  town. 
The  executive  is  vested  in  a  governor,  elected  by  the  General 
Assembly,  and  he  is  not  eligible  to  serve  more  than  three  yean 
in  six.  He  is  assisted  by  a  council  of  state,  consisting  of  seven 
persons,  elected  by  the  Assembly  annually.  The  judiciary  con- 
sists of  a  supreme  court,  a  court  of  equity,  and  a  court  of  admi- 
ralty.    The  judges  are  appointed  by  the  Assembly.    '^' 


::v 


>        4   k 

-1    ~-i 


,''i 


c^Vvt    CHAPTER  XXXIX.       ^^ 

Wiltony — GeorgctowHf — Charleston.      ,.  |. 

Although  we  had  passed  into  a  different  state,   we  had 
neither  a  more  beautiful  country,  nor  a  better  road.     The  one  was  | 
flat,    swampy,   and  dismal ;    the  other  was  bad  in  the  extreme. 
We  passed  a  small  plantation,  a  mile  from  the  state  line,  after  I 
which  we  had  three  miles  of  a  solitary  road,  when  we  came  to 
a  methodist  church,  attended  by  a  pretty  decent  looking  congre- 
gation.    Five  miles  from  thence  is  Swimming  creek ;  but  we  d 
not  swim  here,    though  we  had  to    'wade  a  long  way.     A  mile  | 
farther   we  reached  Little  Pedee,  where  we  left  the  stage,  and 
crossed  in  a  canoe  to  Ford's,    where  we  stopped  for  the  night 


SOUTH    CAROLINA.  191 

The  ilay  was  moist  and  warm,  rather  sultry,  but  on  the  whole 
not  disagreeable.  The  country  was  more  imminently  wretched 
than  any  I  had  yet  seen,  and  excited  a  wonder  how  it  was  in- 
habited at  all,  when  there  is  so  much  good  land,  and  so  many 
fine  climates,  in  other  parts  of  the  United  States. 

Little  Pedee  river  rises  about  80  miles  above  where  we  crossed 
it;  it  runs  a  south-east  course  about  130  miles,  and  falls  into  the 
Great  Pedee.  It  is  a  considerable  stream,  and  at  this  time  was 
swelled  by  the  late  rains  to  a  great  extent.     It  is  not  navigable. 

Monday,  October  liJth.  On  getting  up  this  morning,  at 
daylight,  I  found  the  driver,  a  young  lad  of  about  18,  was  not 
inclined  to  go  on  with  the  stage,  and  Mr.  Ford,  the  postmaster, 
seemed  to  be  very  indifferent  whether  he  went  or  not.  The  driv- 
er alleged  that  there  was  a  bridge  broken  on  a  creek  about  1 8 
miles  distant,  which  he  could  not  possibly  get  across,  and  it  was 
of  no  use  to  try.  I  asked  when  it  would  be  paiisable.  He  replied 
drily,  "  Perhaps  in  a  month."  "  And  are  we  to  wait  here  a 
month?''  "I  suppose  so,"  said  he,  with  great  sangfroid.  I 
appealed  to  the  postmaster,  but  he  appeared  willing  to  leave  it  to 
the  driver's  discretion.  Thus  situated,  I  resolved  to  take  a  deci- 
sive course,  and  told  them,  that  though  I  wus  unacquainted  with 
the  post-office  regulations,  yet  it  pppeared  to  me  that  the  stage 
ought  not  to  be  stopped,  but  by  an  unsurmountable  difficulty, 
and,  after  the  answers  I  had  received,  I  would  require  to  see  that 
difficulty  before  1  was  satisfied  of  it.  If  therefore  the  stage  was 
detained  here,  I  would  draw  up  a  representation  of  the  case,  and 
send  it  to  the  postmaster-general.  The  young  man  said  that 
tiiere  was  a  bye-patH  through  the  woods,  which  he  could  take, 
and  perhaps  get  over  the  creek,  provided  he  liad  any  asbistance. 
Another  driver  was  in  the  house,  who  wished  to  go  to  George- 
town, and  having  no  money,  he  offered  to  give  his  assistance  if 
they  would  give  him  a  passage  free.  This  the  postmaster  objected 
to.  The  sum  was  only  about  three  dollars,  and  I  pointed  out 
the  impropriety  of  detaining  the  stage  two  days  for  such  a  trifle ; 
but  it  was  to  no  purpose ;  and  I  was  obli<rcd  to  become  security 
lor  tlie  payment  of  it  before  Mr.  Ford  would  consent  to  let  the 
young  man  go  on. 

Having  got  this  matter  adjusted,  we  travelled  15  miles  to  Reedy 
cvcck,  the  soil  sandy,  the  woods  pine,  and  many  swamps  by  the  way. 
The  banks  of  this  creek  were  overflowed  to  the  breadth  ol"  a  quarter 


y>^ 


19s  thavkls  in  tm 

of  a  niib  on  each  side.  About  n  mile  beyond  this  the  driver  took 
a  pnsmge  throui^h  the  woods,  the  nstiistant  driver  acting  as  a  pioneer; 
anil  after  travelling  in  this  way  nearly  three  miles,  we  came  to  the 
creek,  concerning  which  we  had  the  altercation  in  the  morning.  It 
was  not  broad,  but  very  deep,  and  choaked  up  with  roots  and  brush* 
wood.  I  did  not  like  its  appearance ;  but  there  was  no  alternative, 
we  must  either  go  through  or  return.  Having  secured  the  mail 
from  the  water,  and  taken  some  precautions  in  case  of  being  upset, 
we  plunged  in,  swam  right  across,  reached  the  opposite  bank  in  safe- 
tj',  and  travelling  about  a  mile  more  through  trackless  woods,  we 
regained  the  road,  very  much  to  my  satisfaction.  I  bestowed  much 
applause  on  the  two  drivers  for  their  good  conduct,  and  at  the  fim 
tavern  we  came  to,  treated  them  with  a  glass  of  grog.  So  our  morn- 
ing's scolding  was  forgotten,  and  we  travelled  on  very  agreeably 
through  this  disagreeable  country. 

\Vc  were  hardly  ever  out  of  swamps  and  creeks.  Six  miles  from 
our  sxs>mming  creek,  we  reached  Maple  swamp ;  and  here  the  bridge 
was  also  broken,  and  we  had  to  get  across  in  a  flat,  which  detained 
us  a  considerable  time.  Five  miles  beyond  this  we  reached  the  Great 
Pedee  river,  which  we  crossed  by  a  ferry. 

'.  This  is  a  fine  flowing  river ;  next  to  the  Santee,  the  largest  in 
Sduth  Carolina.  It  ri>.es  in  nordi  Cavolina  among  the  mountains, 
and  has  in  that  state  the  name  of  Yadkin  river.  From  thence  it 
continues  a  south-east  course,  and  after  being  joined  by  large  tribu- 
tary streams,  particulaily  Little  Pedee,  Lynch's  creek,  and  Black 
river,  it  falls  into  the  sea,  12  miles  below  Georgetown.  Its  whole 
length  is  upwards  of  300  miles,  and  it  water§  an  extensive  tract  oi 
country.  It  is  navigable  for  sea  vessels  to  Georgetown,  and  for 
smallir  vessels  100  miles  higher  up.  It  is  about  400  yards  broad 
where  we  crossed  it,  and  flows  with  a  strong  current.  Its  banks  are 
said  to  be  fertile  ;  but  in  the  low  country  are  very  unhealthy. 

We  stopped  here  for  breakfast,  but  the  family  were  all  sick  with 
fever  and  ague,  in  consequence  of  which  wc  were  long  detained.  It 
was,  however,  at  last  produced,  and  consisted  of  u^isightly  coffW) 
brown  bread,  some  bacon,  and  butter,  which  looked  like  "  train  oil 
thickened  with  salt."  I  had  just  put  the  cup  to  my  lips,  when  1 
heard  a  violent  retching  in  the  adjoining  room,  the  door  of  which 
immediately  opened,  and  out  came  such  a  smell  as  filled  the  room 
with  a  perfume  somewhat  different  from  that  of  Arabia  Felix.  I 
could  not  bear  it,  and  urged  to  be  gone;  but  the  drivers  seemed  to 


SOUTH    CAnOLINA.  193 

be  accustomed  to  these  sort  of  scenes,  and  ate  their  coarse  furc  with 
jtll  the  composure  imaginable. 

We  left  this  wretched  place  at  half  past  1 1  o'clock,  and  two  miles 
distant  came  into  the  old  post-road,  which  gave  us  a  great  degree 
of  pleasure,  as  the  road  from  Lumbeiton  was  all  a  new  line,  and  des- 
perately bad.  However,  our  tronbles  were  not  over ;  for,  a  few 
miles  after  entering  this  road,  we  came  to  Lynch's  creek,  and  here 
the  bridge  was  not  only  gone,  but  the  water  was  spread  over  the 
face  of  the  earth  nearly  three  quarters  of  a  mile  in  breadth  :  there 
was  a  house  at  the  other  side,  but  the  view  was  obstructed  by  the 
woods,  and  we  had  to  halloo  for  half  an  liour  before  we  were  heard. 
At  last,  to  use  an  Irish  phrase,  we  heard  the  voice  of  oars  plashing  in 
the  water,  and  soon  saw  two  black  fellows  paddling  a  huge  flat,  on 
which  we  were  taken  across. 

Passing  over  many  creeks  and  swamps  of  inferior  note,  and  there 
is  hardly  any  thing  else  to  excite  attention  in  this  country,  we  reach- 
ed Blackmingo  creek,  at  4>  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  This  creek 
had  swelled  to  a  great  extent,  and  part  of  the  bridge  was  gone,  so 
that  we  could  not  get  over  the  stage  nor  horses.  We  got  across 
with  the  mail,  which  we  delivered  at  the  post-office,  where  we  were 
informed  that  the  Georgetown  mail  had  not  arrived ;  and  so  wo 
were  set  fast,  at  length*  at  a  miserable  little  place  called  Willton, 

The  whole  city  consisted  of  only  about  15  or  20  houses ;  as  for 
public  buildings,  there  were  none ;  but  there  was  a  tolerably  good 
wooden  building,  at  which  I  was  told  a  Scotsman  kept  a  dry-goods 
iitore.  Aye  !  thinks  I  to  myself,  notwithstanding  the  eminent 
wretchedness  of  the  place,  Saundeis  has  found  out  that  something 
is  to  be  done  here.  However,  Paddy  was  not  behind  hand  with 
hiiri.    The  greater  part  of  the  other  inhabitants  were  Irish  people. 

I  took  up  my  lodgings  at  the  head  inn,  (there  were  two  in  t'.j 
city)  and  I  found  my  landlord  a  civil  obliging  little  Irishman.  1 
told  him  my  adventures  in  the  stage  from  Lumberton,  at  which  he 

laughed  heartily,  observing,  "  By  J s,  you  must  have  had  a 

tough  time  of  it,  and  I'll  warrant  you  have  found  the  ground  of  your 
stomach  :  well,  well,  the  old  woman  will  have  something  ready  pre- 
sently, and  I'll  see  to  have  a  little  bit  of  beef;  and  though  it's  salt, 
we'll  have  plenty  of  vegetables  to  it,  and  some  pratees,  the  seed  of 
which  I  got  from  old  Ireland ;  and,  in  the  mean  time,  we'll  just 
have  a  little  drop  of  something  to  drink  peace  and  good  neighbour- 
hood.    Och,  now,  I  do  like  to  see  a  countryman ;  and  although 

25 


194 


TRAVELS   III 


you  are  not  just  a  countryman  neither,  yet  you  are  the  next  door 
neighbour  to  it,  and  that  comes  to  the  same  thing."  So  saying,  h« 
set  off  to  give  the  necessary  orders  about  the  dinner,  and  soon  re> 
turned  with  the  bottle,  attended  by  the  doctor  of  the  cityy  whom  he 
introduced  to  mcas  a  countryman,  "  and  as  honest  a  fellow  as  ever 
crossed  the  great  sea." 

"While  we  were  regaling  ourselves,  the  doctor  was  seized  with  an 
ague  fit.  "  Och,  now,  doctor,"  says  the  landlord,  "  what's  that  for? 
you  should  leave  the  like  o'  that  to  me,  who  am  a  trained  hand  at  it; 
it's  I'that  can  rap  it  away  to  some  purpose  when  I  begin."  And  he 
soon  did  begin  to  rap  it  away.  He  was  seized  with  a  violent  fit. 
I  felt  for  them  at  first ;  but  when  I  observed  their  wo-bcgone 
countenances  and  odd  gestures,  I  could  not  help  comparing  them, 
in  my  imagination,  to  Shakspeare's  admirable  simile  of  "  Patience 
on  a  monument,  smiling  at  grief,"  and  was  obliged  to  burst  out  into 
a  loud  laugh.  The  landlord,  forgetting  his  ague  fit,  joined  mc.  "B; 
my  shoul,"  says  he,  "you're  a  pure  one.  I  believe,  now,  if  you 
were  to  be  here  beside  mc,  with  that  merry  face  of  your  own,  you 
would  do  me  more  good  than  the  doctor,  with  all  his  medicines. 
Doctor,  why  don't  you  shove  that  rascally  ague  about  its  business, 
and  join  me  and  the  gentleman  in  the  laugh  ?"  The  doctor  smiled, 
which  was  all  the  length  he  could  go ;  however,  they  soon  got  clear 
of  their  shake,  and  we  sat  down  together  to  dinner.  "  Aye,  this  it 
something  like  civilization,"  says  I,  putting  my  fork  into  the  salt 
beef.  "  Now,  would  you  have  expeeted  that  I  could  have  mustered 
you  up  a  little  bit  of  stuff  like  that  ?"  said  the  landlord.  "  Now  ate 
{iwny  heartily,  and  make  yourself  at  home,  and  here's  some  pratees 
I'or  you,  and  some  sweet  pratees,  and  there's  some  beans  and  tur- 
nips ;  take  some  o'  that  now,  and  some  corn>bread,  and  some  o'  these 
calces  that  was  baked  for  you  by  the  old  woman,  and  ate  heartily, 
and  make  your  dinner,  dear,  for  you  see  we  don't  want  good  fare, 
thoiigu  we  have  got  into  a  queer  out  o*  th'  world  looking  place." 

The  ofiicious  kindness  and  good  humour  of  this  agreeable  Irish- 
man beguiled  the  time,  and  reconciled  mc  to  a  detention  of  two  days 
at  this  place,  which  would  otherwise  have  been  almost  intolerable; 
for  there  was  not  a  single  external  object  to  gratify  the  senses,  the 
glorious  efiulgence  of  a  bright  sun  excepted.  The  weather  was  clear 
and  beautiful.  ,  ' 

Wednesday,  15th.  The  Georgetown  stage  arrived,  and  the  o- 
ther  mail  from  the  northward  ;  so  we  got  relieved  from  our  confine- 


SOUTH   CAROLIKA. 


195 


ment  ot  5  o'clock ;  and,  bidding  adieu  to  the  agreeable  Irishman 
and  his  family,  we  set  out  in  the  stage. 

The  country  continued,  as  before,  flat  and  sandy,  six  miles,  to 
Black  river,  which  we  passed  by  a  wooden  bridge.  This  bridge  had 
been  broken,  which  was  the  reason  of  the  detention  of  the  stage, 
and,  though  now  repaired  a  little,  it  was  still  in  a  very  shattered  state. 
Black  river  rises  near  Camden,  and  running  a  south-east  course, 
falls  into  the  great  Pedee,  a  little  above  Georgetown.  The  road 
continued  pretty  good,  but  the  bridges  were  in  very  bad  order,  and 
we  passed  many  of  them ;  for  the  country  is  here  intersected  with 
creeks  in  all  directions.  We  reached  Georgetown,  20  miles  from 
Willton,  at  8  o'clock  in  the  evening. 

Here  I  was  agreeably  surprised  to  find  a  young  gentleman  who 
had  been  a  considerable  time  clerk  in  the  same  house  with  me  in 
Glasgow.  We  were  mutually  gratified  at  this  meeting ;  the  more 
60  when  we  learned  that  we  should  travel  together  to  Charleston. 

Georgetown  is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  Pedee  and  Black 
rivers,  12  miles  from  the  sea,  and  contains  about  2000  inhabitants. 
It  is  the  only  sea-port  in  South  Carolina,  except  Charleston,  and 
has  a  considerable  trade,  particularly  in  rice,  of  which  it  is  said 
that  the  lands  in  its  neighbourhood  produce  30,000  tierces  annually. 
The  houses  are  mostly  built  of  wood,  and  are  but  indifferent.  The 
principal  public  buildings  are  a  court-house,  jail,  an  episcopal 
church,  a  presbyterian  church,  one  for  baptists,  one  for  method- 
ists,  and  a  flourishing  academy. 

The  situation  is  unhealthy  in  the  fall,,  but  the  winters  are  mild 
and  pleasant. 

Thursday,  16th,  we  left  Georgetown  at  3  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  travelled  through  a  level,  sandy  soil,  about  13  miles, 
when  we  passed  the  north  branch  of  the  Santee.  From  thence 
there  is  a  very  muddy  swamp,  through  which  there  is  a  causeway. 
But  causeways  here  are  entirely  different  ft  om  what  they  are  in 
Britain.  I  naturally  expected  to  find  a  pavement  of  stones,  when 
the  term  was  made  use  of;  instead  of  which,  I  found  them  to  con- 
sist of  pieces  of  wood  laid  across  the  road,  with  a  little  space  be- 
tween them,  which  is  filled  up  with  earth  and  brush-wood ;  but 
this  soon  wears  away,  when  the  road  becomes  exceedingly  rough. 
Over  this  we  had  to  travel,  Jolt,  jolt,  jolt,  jolt,  for  two  miles,  when 
we  passed  the  south  branch  of  the  Santee,  aqd  had  a  good  leyul 
road. 


196  TRAVELS   IN 

Santee  is  the  largest  river  in  South  Carolina,  and  is  formed  In 
two  very  large  streams,  the  Congeree  and  Wateree,  in  the  interior 
of  the  country.  Thence  running  upwards  of  100  miles,  in  an  east* 
south-east  direction,  it  divides  about  5  miles  above  where  wc  crosg> 
ed  it,  and  falls  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean  by  two  channels  not  far 
apart.  The  Wateree  rises  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains  in  North 
Carolina,  where  it  is  denominated  the  Catawba,  and,  pursuing  a 
south-east  course,  is  joined  by  many  tributary  streams,  and  fornib  a 
junction  with  the  Congeree,  upwards  of  200  miles  from  its  source. 
The  Congeree  rises  also  in  North  Carolina,  within  a  few  miles  of 
the  Catawba,  and  pursues  a  south-east  course  about  70  miles, 
when  it  crosses  the  state  line,  and  runs  due  south  about  50  niib; 
it  then  runs  south-east  about  130  miles,  and  forms  the  junction 
aforesaid.  In  its  passage  through  South  Carolina,  it  receives  a 
great  many  tributary  streams,  some  of  which  are  large  rivers,  par. 
ticularly  the  Tyger,  Enneree,  and  Reedy  rivers. 

Thirty  miles  from  Georgetown,  we  stopped  for  dinner,  where 
we  had  a  view  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean ;  and  this  was  several  times 
repeated  in  our  journey  onward.  There  was  no  other  variety,  for 
the  country  is  one  continued  sand  flat,  with  drifting  sand  and  pine 
trees.  But  the  weather  was  delightful.  We  reached  Cliarlestoi) 
at  6  o'clock  in  the  evening. 


CHAPTER  XL. 

Charleston, 

As  it  was  of  importance  to  make  some  arrangements  at  Charles- 
tpn,  I  wrote  to  Savannah,  and  in  the  interim  had  a  few  days  to 
spend  with  my  friends. 

On  the  evening  of  the  20th  of  October,  I  was  invited  by  a  friend 
to  taJce  a  ride  to  the  west  end  of  the  town.  As  we  returned,  a 
gentleman  on  horseback  came  up  with  us,  whom  my  friend  fa- 
miliarly accosted  by  the  appellation  of  Doctor,  and  introduced  me 
as  a  stranger,  recently  from  Britain.  The  doctor  immediately  en- 
tered into  conversation  on  the  affairs  of  that  country.  "  I'm 
afraid,"  says  he,  "  it's  all  over  with  that  empire."  "  How  so  ?"  ask- 
ed I.  "  Why,"  says  he,  "  it  appears  to  me,  that  the  present  minis- 
try will  ruin  the  country."     **  Why,  now,"  said  I,  **  it  appears  to 


SOUTH     CAROLINA. 


197 


me,  on  the  other  hand,  that  they  arc  making  cfTorts  to  save  it ; 
at  least,  I  think  they  have  taken  very  important  steps  with  that 
vicir,  since  they  have  been  in  power."  He  replied,  very  dojj;mati- 
cally,  that  I  did  not  seem  to  understand  it; — the  men  were  ruining 
the  country;  he  was  sure  of  it;  he  saw  it  very  clearly.  He  was 
21  jolly,  good-looking  man,  with  a  drab  coat,  and  a  white  hat; 
nnd  I  supposed  him  to  be  a  doctor  of  medicine,  and  an  American. 
But  I  was  surprised  at  his  violence,  and  his  animosity  to  the  whig 
party ;  for  it  was  generally  understood  that  they  were  much  more 
favourably  disposed  towards  America  than  their  predecessors. 
Wiicn  he  had  expressed  his  sentiments,  I  adverted  to  t7iat  favour- 
able circumstance,  and  stated,  that  having  been  very  lately  in 
the  country,  I  had  paid  a  good  deal  of  attention  to  public  affairs, 
and  was  pretty  well  acquainted  with  the  policy  of  the  ministry ;  so 
that  I  ought  to  understand  the  subject  at  least  as  well  as  those  who 
lived  3000  miles  distant ;  and  if  he  would  give  me  leave,  I  would 
state  a  few  particulars,  which  he  would  find  to  be  highly  in  favour 
of  the  present  administration.  "  You  are  entirely  mistaken,"  said 
he;  "  people  who  live  here  can  form  a  much  better  judgment  on 
the  conduct  of  the  British  government  than  those  who  are  on  the 
spot.  But  what  d'ye  propose  to  tell  me  ?  can  you  mention  a  single 
instance  in  which  they  departed  from  the  policy  of  Mr,  Pitt  ?  Caij 
you  mention  one  ?  I  defy  you  to  mention  one."  I  instanced  the 
attempt  to  give  peace  to  their  country ;  to  restore  religious  freedom 
to  the  Roman  catholics ;  to  conciliate  foreign  powers ;  but,  above 
all,  to  put  an  end  to  the  traffic  in  human  Jlesh,  He  passed  over  all 
these  circumstances  except  the  last,  and,  fixing  on  it,  "  But  Mr. 
Pitt,"  says  he,  "  advocated  the  abolition  as  well  a^  Fox."  "  He  did 
so,"  said  I,  "  but  in  a  very  different  manner,  and  with  a  very  dif- 
ferent effect."  "  And  I  think  the  worse  of  him  for  so  doing,"  said 
he;  "  there,  I  think,  he  was  an  enemy  to  his  country  1"  "  I  un- 
derstood," said  I,  «'  that  you  approved  of  the  measures  of  Mr.  Pitt." 
"  And  so  I  did."  «  Well,  then,  in  supporting  the  abolition,  was 
he  an  enemy  to  his  country  /""  «  No,"  said  he,  "  I  don't  think 
so;  fori  believe  he  was  not  sincere."  "  Not  sincere!"  said  I. 
"  Sir,  you  place  Mr.  Pitt's  memory  in  a  very  extraordinary  point 
of  view.  If  he  was  not  sincere,  he  was  a  consummate  hypocrite. 
If  he  was  sincere,  then,  according  to  your  opinion,  he  was  an  ene- 
my to  his  country." — «  Ay,  but  there  may  be  cases  of  expediency," 
said  he.    «  Case*  of  expediency  !"  said  I.  «*  Sir,  truth  is  sipaple 


198 


TK4VELS   IN 


and  honourable,  and  requirefi  no  expedients.  Fnlcehood  is  hut 
and  detestable,  and  all  the  expedients  in  the  world  will  not  dii. 
guise  it. — Besides,  to  apply  cases  of  expediency  to  such  a  motnen* 
tous  concern  as  the  slave  trade,  is  monstrous. — The  laws  of  moralitv 
require  that  we  should  do  to  our  neighbours  as  we  would  be  done 
by ;  humanity  enforces  it — Christianity" 1  was  going  to  say  en- 
joins it ;  but  our  roads  lay  different,  and  we  parted.  "  You  should 
not  have  been  so  severe  upon  the  doctor,"  observed  my  friend. 
*<  who  is  he?"  said  I. — 1  was  astonished,  and  the  reader  will  be 
astonished,  to  learn,  that  this  approver  of  expedients — this  sup- 
porter of  the  measures  of  Mr.  Pitt — this  advocate  of  the  slave 
trade,  was  a  minister  of  the  gospel  of  Christ  I  and  was  sent  out  to 
Charleston  on  the  recommendation  of  the  late  Dr.  Blair  of  Edin- 
burgh. 

I  was  variously  employed  in  Charleston  until  the  21st,  by  which 
time  I  had  got  all  my  arrangements  completed,  when,  having  no 
letter  from  Savannah,  I  became  exceedingly  impatient  to  be  gone. 
I  accordingly  took  my  passage  by  the  mail  stage,  and,  as  it  wai 
to  start  at  three  o'clock  in  the  morning,  I  went  to  sleep  in  the 
stage-house. 

I  was  seized  with  a  slight  fever  during  the  night,  and  when  the 
departure  of  the  stage  was  announced,  I  found  it  was  out  of 
my  power  to  proceed.  I  got  very  anxious,  and  sent  for  a  doctor, 
nrho  prescribed  some  medicine,  and  I  believe  gave  me  a  very  ini' 
proper  dose,  to  which,  principally,  I  attribute  a  severe  stomach 
complaint  with  which  I  was  afterwards  afflicted. 

In  this  situation  I  was  greatly  assisted  by  a  young  Irishman, 
who  came  to  lodge  at  the  same  house.  He  examined  into  my  ftitu* 
ation,  told  roe  he  had  been  served  in  the  same  way  at  New  Or- 
leans, and  prescribed  some  medicine  to  counteract  the  effect  of  the 
other,  which  was  successful,  and  in  all  probability  saved  my  life. 

During  my  confinement  there  was  a  remarkable  change  of  wea- 
ther ;  the  thermometer  fell  suddenly  from  75**  to  48".  I  was  told 
that  such  changes  were  very  common  there,  in  the  spring  and  fall 

Charleston  is  elegantly  situated  on  a  point  of  land  at  the 
confluence  of  Cooper  and  Ashley  rivers,  which  form  the  harbour, 
one  of  the  most  convenient  in  the  United  States.  The  ground 
on  which  the  city  is  built  is  low,  but  it  is  open  to  the  sea  breeze, 
and  is,  upon  the  whole,  one  of  the  most  eligible  situations  in  the 
low  country.     The  plan  of  the  city  is  regular,  the  streets  crossing 


SOUTH   CAROLINA.  |99 

each  other  at  right  angles ;  but  many  of  them  aro  too  narrow. 
The  houses  are  partly  built  of  brick,  and  partly  of  woocl ;  and 
many  of  them  arc  elegant.  They  arc  about  5000  in  number,  anil 
the  city  contains  about  24-,000  inhabitants,  of  whom  nearly  one 
half  arc  slaves.  The  public  buildings  arc  a  court-house,  exchange, 
college,  armoury,  three  banks,  18  places  of  public  worship,  alms- 
bouse,  orphans-house;  &c.  The  markets  arc  kept  in  pretty  good 
order,  but  provisions  are  dear,  and  are  not  so  good  as  in  the 
northern  cities.  There  arc  few  manufactures  at  Chorleston,  but 
there  is  a  very  active  commerce,  particularly  in  the  winter  sea* 
ton ;  and  vast  quantities  of  shipping  arc  constantly  arriving  and 
departing,  which  keeps  the  city  very  lively.  The  principal  fo- 
reign trade  is  to  Europe  and  the  West  Indies ;  of  which  Britain 
occupies  a  large  share,  and  a  considerable  portion  is  appropriated 
to  Glasgow.  The  great  articles  for  export  arc  cotton  and  rice, 
particularly  the  former ;  and  the  imports  consist  of  East  and 
West  India  goods,  groceries,  and  British  manufactures.  Besides 
this,  there  is  a  very  extensive  trade  to  the  northern  states,  in 
which  many  regular  packets  arc  cmployeii.  The  citizens  arc  es* 
teemed  hospitable  and  polite,  of  which  I  found  many  instances. 
They  are  mostly  all  dressed  in  British  manufactures,  so  that  the 
cultivation  of  this  trade  is  an  object  of  considerable  importance  to 
that  country.  A  more  than  ordinary  proportion  of  the  popula- 
tion of  Charleston  is  blacks,  occasioned  by  the  circumstance  of 
its  being  the  only  port  in  the  United  States  in  which  they  can  be 
imported;  but  it  is  supposed  this  branch  will  not  long  continue^ 
—From  the  light  of  reason,  of  philosophy,  and  of  religion,  that 
is  every  where  shining  around  us,  may  we  not  hope  that  the 
time  will  soon  arrive  when  man  will  no  more  deal  deceitfully 
with  his  fellow,  but  justice,  and  righteousness,  and  mercy,  will 
•xtend  over  all  the  earth  ? 


ii 


CHAPTER   XLI. 


4'$  .;<v 


,,  ;,     :.      South  Carolina.  :  .. 

i  MIS  .state  is  situated  between  north  latitude  32"  6'  and  SS®,, 
I  and  west  longitude  1°  80'  and  6°  25'.  Its  extreme  length  from  east 
jto  wc«tis  236,  dnd  breadth  from  north  to  south  210  miles;  and  it 


I 


I 


€0O  SOUTH   CAROLINA. 

ii  computed  to  contain  an  area  of  33,880  iquarc  miles,  bciuj 
21,f)S.'J,200  acres. 

South  Cnroliim  lias  n  tea  const  on  the  Atlantic,  extending  near 
\y  200  miles,  to  which  all  its  rivers  flow.  The  angle  of  the  coa« 
U  from  north-east  to  south-west ;  and  nearly  parallel  with  this,  at 
about  120  miles  from  the  coast,  the  first  high  land  commencei 
The  whole  of  the  intermediate  space  is  nearly  a  continued  level, 
the  angle  of  ascent  being  so  trifling,  that  the  rise  at  the  extrcmitj 
probably  docs  not  exceed  1 5  or  20  feet.  From  the  commence- 
ment of  the  high  lands  the  face  of  the  country  is  variegated,  and 
agreeably  uneven,  swelling  sometimes  into  considerable  hills ;  and 
this  continues  to  the  north-west  extremity  of  the  state,  where  it 
is  bounded  by  the  mountains. 

The  state  is  remarkably  well  watered  The  Savannah  river 
forms  the  boundary  line  between  it  and  Georgia,  through  its 
whole  course.  This,  and  some  of  the  other  rivers,  have  been  no- 
ticed ;  besides  which  there  are — 

Cooper  and  Ashley  rivers,  which  form  a  junction  at  Charleston. 
Cooper  river  rises  about  50  miles  N.N.W.  of  Charleston,  not  far 
from  the  Santee  river.  It  is  a  mile  wide,  nine  miles  above  Charles* 
ton,  and  is  navigable  to  its  source,  from  whence  there  is  n  canal 
to  the  Santee.  Ashley  river  rises  to  the  north-west  of  Charleston, 
and  derives  its  principal  importance  from  the  circumstance  of  its 
forming  part  of  the  harbour  of  that  city. 

Edisto  river  rises  near  the  extremity  of  the  low  country,  and 
runs  a  south-cast  course,  including  its  windings,  of  150  miles, 
when  it  enters  into  the  Atlantic,  by  two  principal  channels,  call- 
ed north  and  south  Edisto.  The  space  between  them  forms  tbe 
Edisto  Island.  ,      v>i . 

Cambahee  river  rises  near  Edgefield  court-house,  and  running 
n  south-cast  direction,  upwards  of  130  miles,  falls  into  St.  Helena 
Sound. 

Coosaw  river  rises  in  Orangeburg  district,  and  running  a 
south-east  course,  through  Black  swamp,  falls  into  Broad  river, 
which  last  is  an  arm  of  the  sea,  in  some  places  7  or  8  miles  broad, 
and  forms,  at  Baufoit,  one  of  the  finest  harbours  in  the  United 
States.  Beaufort  and  St.  Helena  Islands  are  formed  by  the  con- 
fluence of  the.«e  rivers  and  inlets;  and  there  is  a  spacious  entrance 
by  Port  liepublican,  formerly  termed  Port  Royal. 


SOUTH   CAROLINA.  %0\ 

Tlie  principal  mincrftl  is  iron,  which,  indeed,  is  found  in  great 
plenty  in  all  the  state* ;  and  gold,  silver,  and  cop|>cr  ores  have  also 
been  found  here.  Marbl«  has  been  tound  in  some  few  places,  and  also 
black  lead.   Thcic  ^re  severnl  <rgluablc  mineral  springn  in  the  state. 

The  whole  of  the  luw  country  presents  an  even  regular  soil,  form- 
cdby  a  blackish  sand,  and  |irctty  deep  in  those  places  where  there 
arc  no  stones.  Seven  tenths  of  it  is  covered  with  pines  of  one 
ipecicii,  which  as  the  soil  is  drier  and  lighter,  grow  loftier  and 
not  M  branchy.  In  some  places  they  are  interspersed  with  oaks. 
The  pine  barrens  arc  crossed  by  little  swamps,  in  the  midst  of 
which  generally  flows  a  rivulet,  and  they  have  different  degrecR  of 
fertility,  indicated  by  the  trees  that  grow  on  them.  In  the  upper 
country,  the  most  fertile  lands  are  situutctl  upon  the  borders  of 
the  rivers  and  creeks;  the  lands  that  occupy  the  intermediate 
spaces  are  much  less  fertile.  The  latter  are  not  much  cultivated ; 
and  those  who  occupy  them  arc  obliged  to  be  perpetually  clearing 
them  to  obtain  more  abundant  harvests.  T'hc  forests  are  chiefly 
composed  of  oaks,  hickory,  maples,  and  poplars.  Chesnut-trees 
do  not  begin  to  appear  for  60  miles  on  this  side  of  the  mountains.* 

The  climate  in  the  low  country  is  materially  different  from  that 
in  the  upper  country,  the  former  being  much  less  congenial  to 
health  than  the  latter.  The  summers  arc  exceedingly  hot  and 
sultry,  and  the  heat  abates  but  little,  except  in  the  evenings  and 
mornings,  till  past  the  middle  of  October.  From  the  first  of 
July  to  that  period,  the  country  is  in  many  places  subject  to  much 
sickness,  particularly  bilious  fevers,  agues,  &c.  The  fall  weather 
is  generally  beautiful,  and  continues  till  past  Christmas ;  the  aver- 
age temperature  is  greater  than  an  English  summer.  The  win- 
ters are  generally  mild,  and  there  is  very  little  front,  but  the  wea- 
ther is  sometimes  subject  to  great  and  sudden  changes.  The 
•pring  commences  about  the  middle  of  February,  and  they  have 
oflen  green  peas  in  the  market  by  the  middle  of  March ;  but  the 
weather  intermits  very  much  till  about  the  first  of  May,  when  it 
gets  steadily  warm,  and  continues  increasing  with  the  season  till 
September,  when  it  begins  to  abate.f  Almost  every  person  who 
can  afford  it,  removes  to  a  more  healthy  situation  during  this 
period,  and  a  vast  number  go  to  the  northern  states  in  summer, 
and  return  in  the  fall.     The  period  of  going  north,  is  mostly  from 


mm 


Michaux. 


ttf 


f  Ibid. 


203 


SOUTH    CAROLINA. 


if 

m 


liiiii 


Ttei 


the  middle  of  May  till  the  middle  of  July,  and  of  returning,  from 
the  middle  of  October  till  the  middle  of  November.  The  anxiety 
that  prevails  during  that  period  is  extreme ;  and  when  it  is  over 
the  inhabitants  con<rratulate  one  another  with  the  full  prospect  of 
10  or  11  months' being  added  to  their  existence.  In  the  upper 
country  the  summers  are  much  more  temperate,  and  being  re- 
moved from  the  swamps,  there  is  no  sickness.  Towards  the  moun- 
tains  the  climate  is  delitrhtful. 

In  1662,  Charles  II.  granted  to  lord  Clarendon^  and  others,  i 
tract  of  land  extending  from  north  latitude  29"  to  36°  31',  and 
from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  wlrich  they  called  Caro. 
Una.  The  first  permanent  settlement  was  made  at  Charleston, 
umkr  their  direction,  in  1669.  The  cultivation  of  rice  was  intro- 
duced in  1690;  and  of  cotton  in  1702.  In  1T28,  the  country  was 
divided  into  North  and  South  Carolinu,  when  there  were  14,000 
whites,  and  20,000  negroes  and  Indians.  Indigo  was  cultivated 
in  1745.  South  Carolina  took  an  early  and  decided  part  in  the 
struggle  tor  independence,  and  sent  delegates  to  the  first  congresi. 
In  1790,  slie  adopteu  tl»e  present  state  constitution;  and  now 
sends  two  senators  and  eight  representatives  to  congress. 

The  state  is  divided  into  26  judiciary  districts;  and  some  of  these 
are  sulxlivided  hito  parishes.  The  population,  in  1800,  was 
199,4'40  free  persons,  and  146,151  slaves,  in  all  345,591,  being 
about  lO  to  the  bquare  mile. 

The  state  advances  in  improvements  and  popwlation;  but  the 
increase  of  both  being  principally  in  the  upper  country,  are  not 
seen  by  strangers.  Except  Charleston,  there  are  no  towns  ot 
material  consequence.  .* 

Columbia,  on  the  Congeree  river,  T20  miles  from  Charleston, 
is  the  scat  of  goverr.  .iciit,  and  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade. 
"  The  number  of  its  houses  docs  not  exceed  200 ;  they  are  almo!>t 
all  built  of  wood,  and  painted  grey  and  yellow ;  and,  although 
there  are  very  few  of  them  more  than  two  stories  high,  they  have 
a  very  respectable  appearance.  The  inhabitants  of  the  upper 
country,  who  do  not  approve  of  sending  their  provisions  to 
Charleston,  stop  at  Columbia,  where  they  dispose  them  at  several 
respectable  shops  established  in  the  town. 

The  above  account  is  given  by  Michaux,  who  travelled  throng!) 
this  phice  in  1803  ;  and  a  continuation  of  the  extract  presents  a 
picture  of  the  country  between  Columbia  and  Charleston* 


SOUTH    CAROLINA^ 


90S 


<<  Columbia  is  aboul  120  miles  from  Charleston.  For  the  whole 
of  this  space,  particularly  from  Orangeburg,  composed  of  20  houses, 
the  road  crosses  an  even  country,  sandy  and  dry  during  the  sum- 
mer; whilst  in  the  autumn  and  winter  it  is  so  covered  with  water 
in  several  places,  for  the  space  of  eight  or  ten  miles,  that  the  horses 
are  up  to  their  middles.  Every  two  or  three  miles  we  met  with  a 
miserable  log-house  upon  the  road,  surrounded  with  little  fields  of 
Indian  corn,  the  slender  stalks  of  which  are  very  seldom  more  than 
five  or  six  feet  high,  and  which,  from  the  second  harvest,  do  not 
yield  more  than  four  or  five  bushels  an  acre.  In  the  mean  time, 
notwithstanding  its  sterility,  this  land  is  sold  at  the  rate  of  two 
dollars  per  acre."  Beaufort  contains  about  1  OOP  inhabitants;  and 
there  are  several  smaller  towns  containing  from  100  to  500. 

As  there  is  a  material  difference  in  the  soil  and  climate  of  the 
upper  and  lower  country,  so  is  there  in  the  produce.  The  produce 
in  the  lower  country  is  mostly  cotton  and  rice,  with  articles  neces- 
sary for  the  subsistence  of  the  negroes,  particularly  Indian  corn. 
The  sea  islands,  and  low  lands  along  the  coast,  produce  cotton  of 
the  long  staple:  in  the  interior  it  is  principally  of  the  short  staple. 
Rice  plantations  are  established  in  the  great  swamps,  and  the  har- 
vests are  abundant.  Throughout  the  whole  of  this  district  the  agri- 
cultural labours  are  performed  by  negro  slaves.  In  the  upper  coun- 
try the  produce  is  more  diversified.  They  raise  no  rice ;  but  they 
produce  cotton  of  the  short  staple  in  very  considerable  quantities; 
and,  liesides  Indian  coin,  they  raise  wheat,  rye,  oats,  and  barley. 
A  great  part  of  the  agricultural  labour  here  is  performed  by  the 
white  people ;  and  so  great  is  the  diiference,  in  this  respect,  from  the 
low  country,  that  we  may  reckon  there  are  two  white  persons  to 
one  black ;  whereas,  in  the  other  there  are  two  blacks  to  one  wliitc 
person. 

The  manufactures  of  this  state  are  mostly  of  the  domestic  kind, 
for  family  use,  and  tliis  kind  of  industry  is  increasing ;  but  such  is 
the  quantity  of  produce  suitable  for  foreign  markets,  that  the  state 
carries  on  a  very  active  foreign  commerce,  of  which  a  great  propor- 
tion is  to  Britain.  The  articles  exported  are  chiefly  cotton,  rice, 
and  tobacco.  The  imports  consist  of  British  manufactures,  wines, 
and  groceries.  The  exports  in  1 805,  amounted  to  9,0G0,625  dollars, 
of  which  5,957,646  dollars  was  domestic  produce;  and  probably 
three  millions  more  are  exported  through  the  medium  of  the  north- 
ern ports.     ,    :       ;    .    -  .  '  ...  ,-> 


f04l  TRATKLS   IN 

The  operation  of  slavery  to  so  great  an  extent  produces,  of  course, 
(he  same  effects  here  as  in  other  places ;  but  the  people  have  consi- 
derably improved  in  education  and  morals  since  the  revolution.  It 
was  customary  for  a  long  period  for  the  more  wealthy  planters  to 
send  their  sons  to  Europe  for  education ;  and  even  now  they  fre- 
quently  send  them  to  the  northern  states ;  but  the  practice  is  grar 
dually  declining,  and  the  desire  has  become  general  to  have  res. 
pectable  seminaries  in  the  state.  A  college  has  been  founded,  and 
very  respectably  endowed,  at  Columbia ;  and  there  are  several  other 
colleges  and  academies  throughout  the  state.  The  towns  are  pret- 
ty well  supplied  with  common  schools ;  but  they  are  defective  in  the 
country ;  and  this  branch  of  education,  being  the  basis  of  the  moral- 
ity of  the  state,  deserves  the  early  attention  of  the  legislature. 

The  civil  government  is,  like  that  of  the  other  states,  legislative, 
executive,  and  judiciary.  The  legislative  power  is  vested  in  a  general 
assembly,  consisting  of  a  senate  and  house  of  representatives.  The 
senators  are  chosen  for  four  years,  and  one  half  vacate  their  seats  e^ 
very  two  years ;  they  must  be  thirty-five  years  of  age,  and  possessed 
of  a  freehold  estate  of  the  value  of  300  pounds  sterling,  clear  of 
debt ;  and  the  electors  must  be  possessed  of  fifly  acres  of  land,  or  a 
town  lot,  Oi*  have  paid  a  tax  of  three  shillings  sterling.  The  repre< 
sentatives  n^ust  be  twenty-one  years  of  age,  and  be  possessed  of  a 
freehold  esti.te  of  150  pounds,  clear  of  debt;  and  the  electors  must 
have  the  same  qualifications  as  for  senators. 

The  executive  government  is  vested  in  a  governor,  chosen  for  two 
years,  by  the  legislature ;  and  the  qualifications  to  fill  that  office  are, 
that  he  be  thirty  years  of  age,  and  be  possessed  of  1500  poonds 
sterling. 

The  judges  of  the  superior  courts,  commissioners  of  the  treasury, 
secretary  of  state,  and  surveyor-general,  are  all  elected  by  the 
legislature. 

■    ■(■,    ■  y 

CHAPTER  XLII. 

Charleston, — Savannah  river, — Savannah, 

S  ATURDAY,  October  25th.  Having  been  eight  days  in  Charles- 
ton, without  hearing  from  Savannah,  I  got  much  alarmed  for  my 
friend,  and  resolved  to  depart  forthwith,  notwithst.tDding  I  was  in 
M  very  poor  state  of  health.     I  accordingly  engaged  a  passage  in 


CBOROIA.  105 

the  Deliglit,  captain  Cooper,  and  went  on  board  in  the  afternoon. 
We  set  sail  at  5  o'clock.  It  was  a  fine  clear  evening ;  but  I  was 
gick  and  could  not  enjoy  the  breeze  nor  the  scenery.  The  wind 
was  favourable,  and  before  midnight  we  were  in  sight  of  Tybce  light- 
house. I  went  to  bed,  but  slept  little ;  and  when  I  arose  in  the 
mornin"  I  found  we  were  sailing  up  Savannah  rivea*  with  a  fair  wind, 
which  continuetl  till  we  reached  the  city.  As  we  were  drawing  to- 
wards the  wharf,  a  gentleman  of  my  acquaintance  passed  us  in  a 
Iwat;  and  so  great  was  my  anxiety  that  I  could  hardly  put  the  ge- 
neral question :  "  How  are  you  all  in  Savannah  ?"  The  answer 
was  such  as  I  dreaded :  "  Your  friend  is  not  very  well."  I  was 
dreadfully  agitated,  and  could  hardly  pronounce  the  sentence:  "  He's 
not  dangerously  ill,  I  hope."  "  He's  pretty  bad,"  was  the  reply. 
It  went  to  my  heart.  The  power  of  vision  and  of  hearing  forsook 
me;  my  limbs  tottered  under  me;  I  lost  all  sense  of  recollection, 
and  in  this  state  was  conveyed  to  the  wharf;  but  I  soon  recovered 
from  my  reverie.  The  powers  of  my  mind  rallied  their  force,  and 
the  passion  of  grief  took  the  place  of  lethargy.  I  was  almost  choak- 
ed  with  the  violence  of  my  passion,  and  could  hardly  support  my- 
self to  the  top  of  the  bluff,  when  I  was  accosted  by  a  friend,  who 
told  me  my  presence  was  very  much  wanted  in  Savannah.  This  gave 
my  mind  a  fresh  direction.     I  armed  myself  with  resolution, 

*'  Tliat  column  of  true  majesty  in  man ;" 

and  determining  to  brave  all  difficulty  and  all  danger,  I  made  the 
hest  of  my  way  to  the  house.  1  found  my  friend  in  the  agonies  of 
death.  I  spoke  to  him ;  but  he  underssood  me  not.  I  looked  iu 
his  face ;  but,  oh,  how  altered  !  His  eyes  were  sunk  in  his  head, 
and  his  colour  was  quite  yellow.  I  seized  his  hand,  and  it  was  quite 
emaciated.  The  hand  of  death  pressed  heavy  upon  him,  and  all  I 
could  now  hope  for  was  to  make  myself  understood  in  taking  a  sor- 
rowful farewell.  I  mentioned  my  name,  on  which  he  raised  his  eyes; 
he  looked  wistfully  in  my  face  ;  he  pressed  my  hand  with  fervour, 
saying  faintly,  '*  Is  it  you  ?"  and  fell  back  in  his  bed,  and  soon  after 
expired. 

Thus  I  lost  an  esteemed  friend,  and  the  business  lost  the  serviceir 
of  a  valuable  young  man,  on  whom  I  had  placed  great  reliance. 
His  conduct  during  the  whole  of  our  short  connexion  was  such  as 
to  give  me  every  satisfaction,  and  to  secure  my  utmost  confidence. 
His  loss  was  painful,  as  a  friend — as  an  assistant,  irretrievable. 


S05  TRAVELS   IN 

In  the  mean  time,  the  whole  of  the  business  devolved  upon  rat 
and  such  was  the  mass  of  matter  through  which  I  had  to  labour,  that 
I  hardly  ever  enjoyed  an  hour  of  recreation  or  repose  for  the  space 
of  two  months ;  and  my  health  was  re-established  very  slowly. 

In  other  respects  matters  were  favourable.  By  dint  of  vigoroui 
exertions  I  got  the  whole  of  my  business  arranged  to  my  wish ;  and 
my  accounts  from  Britain,  both  of  a  public  and  private  nature,  were 
flittering.         ,     ;,  ,   .., 

The  non-intercourse  act  was  suspended,  in  consequence  of  which 
a  quantity  of  our  goods,  that  were  seized  under  its  operation,  were 
given  up  free  of  expense. 

Mr.  Fox  was  dead ;  but  his  friends  remained  in  the  cabinet ;  and 
every  thing  seemed  to  promise  a  continuance  of  a  good  understand- 
ing between  the  two  countries,  on  which  my  whole  fortune  and  fu- 
ture  prospects  depended. 

My  fi^elings  were  highly  gratified  by  an  act  of  the  American  go 
vernment,  abolishing  for  ever  the  slave  trade ;  and  it  appeared  that 
a  similar  measure  would  be  adopted  in  Britain. 

I  found  the  inhabitants  of  Savannah  hospitable  and  friendly ;  and 
was  much  pleased  with  the  attention  of  those  of  them  with  whom  I 
had  occasion  to  associate. 

Under  all  these  circumstances,  it  became  a  question  whether  I 
would  form  a  new  connexion,  to  supply  the  place  of  my  friend,  and 
go  on  with  the  business,  or  whether  I  would  wind  it  up.  After 
much  deliberation  it  was  determined  to  carry  it  on.  A  new  connex* 
ion  was  formed,  and  I  prosecuted  the  various  arrangements  con* 
nected  with  it  with  all  the  vigour  in  my  power. 

Having  all  these  completed,  I  prepared  to  leave  the  United  Stales 
for  Europe ;  but  before  I  embark  I  shall  take  a  general  view  of  the 
itate  of  Georgia.  ,, 

CHAPTER  XLIIl. 

,         .  Georgia 

Is  situated  between  north  latitude  30*  30' and  35°,  and  west  lon- 
gitude 3°  50'  and  9"  5'.  Its  extreme  length  from  north  to  south 
is  305  miles,  and  its  extreme  breadth  259.  Its  area  is  about  60,000 
square  miles,  or  38,400,000  acres.     , 

This  state,  like  the  Carolinas,  is  naturally  divided  into  two  dis- 
tricts, the  upper  and  the  lower ;  of  which  the  boundary  is  remark- 


GEORGIA.  SOT 

ably  well  defined.  Augusta  is  on  this  line,  on  the  Savannah  river, 
from  whence  it  passes  to  the  westward  by  Louisville,  and,  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  state,  passes  the  Flint  river,  about  the  latitude  of  SS®. 
The  respective  portions  are  so  much  assimilated  to  South  Cai'olina, 
that  it  is  unnecessary  to  describe  them  here.  Tlie  state  has  a  sea 
coi'st  of  100  miles,  which  is  indented  with  bays  and  inlets,  and  stud- 
ded with  islands,  well  known  by  the  name  of  Sea  Islands.  In  the 
southern  part  there  is  a  portion  of  Eokefanoke  swamp,  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  in  the  world.  To  the  north -west  are  the  Allega- 
ny mountains,  which  terminate  in  this  state.    . 

The  state  is  remarkably  well,  supplied  with  rivers  and  small 
streams.  The  Savannah  river  has  been  already  described.  The 
Ogeeche  river  rises  a  little  above  Greensburgh,  200  miles  from  Sa- 
vannah, and  pursuing  a  south  east  course  falls  into  the  Atlantic^  25 
miles  south  of  Savannah. 

The  Altamaha  is  composed  of  a  number  of  branches,  of  which 
the  largest  is  the  Oconee.  It  rises  near  the  mountains,  about  300 
miles  from  Savannah,  and  running  a  south-south -east  course,  is 
I  joined  by  the  Appalachy,  and  thence  continues  its  course,  augment- 
ed by  a  great  number  of  tributary  streams,  till  it  forms  a  junction 
with  the  Oakmulgee,  100  miles  from  the  ocean :  from  thence  it  runs 
an  east-south-east  couse,  and  falls  into  the  Atlantic  below  Darien,  to 
which  it  is  navigable  for  large  vessels. 

The  Oakmulgee  is  a  large  river  rising  near  the  Appalachy,  from 
whence,  to  its  confluence  with  the  Oconee,  it  runs  upwards  of  200 
miles.  The  Little  Ogeeche  is  a  considerable  river,  and  falls  into 
the  Altamaha,  from  the  northward,  after  this  junction. 

The  Chatahouchy  is  a  very  large  river,  and  forms  the  western 
boundary  of  Georgia  from  the  Florida  line,  125  miles  up  the  coun- 
try. It  rises  at  the  ibot  of  the  mountains,  near  the  head  of  Savan- 
nah river,  and  runs  south-westwardly,  above  200  miles,  to  where 
it  forms  the  state  line.  From  thence  it  pursues  a  course  a  littli: 
east  of  south,  to  Florida,  where  it  forms  a  junction  with  Flint 
river,  and  assumes  the  name  of  Apalachicola.  From  thence  it 
I  runs  a  south  by  east  course,  80  miles,  to  the  gull'  of  Mexico, 
which  it  enters  by  several  mouths.  .  • 

Flint  river  is  about  300  yards  broad,  and  12  or  IS  feet  deep' 
It  rises  near  the  Oakmulgee  river,  and  runs,    with  a  clear  gentle 
I  current,  a  course  to  the  west  of  south,  upwards  of  200  miles. 

St.  Mary's  river  rises  in  Eokefanoke  swamp,  and  running  about 


208  GEonoiA. 

100  miles  by  a  very  crooked  course,  but  cast  upon  the  whole, 
forms  the  boundary  between  the  United  States  and  East  Florida, 
during  its  whole  passage,  and  falls  into  the  sea  at  St.  Mary's, 
where  it  forms  a  good  harbour. 

The  soil  and  climate  are  both  assimilated  to  South  Carolint, 
There  is  a  great  proportion  of  good  land  in  upper  Georgia,  and 
the  sea-islands  are  numerous  and  rich. — Lower  Georgia,  being 
farther  to  the  south,  is  a  little  warmer  than  South  Carolina. 

The  first  settlement  of  Georgia  was  made  in  1 732,  under  the 
direction  of  a  society  of  gentlemen,  who  acted  as  trustees;  and 
general  Oglethorpe  landed  at  Savannah  with  113  settlers.  la 
ITS*,  they  were  joined  by  130  highlanders  from  Scotland,  and 
170  Germans.  Georgia  suffered  severely  in  the  struggle  for  inde- 
pendence, and  was  frequently  the  seat  of  war.  The  state  consti* 
tution  was  adopted  in  1 780.  Georgia  now  sends  two  senators  and 
four  representatives  to  congress. 

The  state  is  divided  into  24  counties,  and  these  compose  two 
judiciary  districts.     The  population,  by  the  census  of  1 800,  was 
102,987  free  persons,  and  59,697  slaves,  making  a  total  of  162,68i,  I 
being  somewhat  more  than  3  to  the  square  mile.     •  r  t  ' 

There  arc  but  few  towns  in  Georgia.  Savannah  and  Augusta 
have  been  noticed.  The  others  are  mostly  situated  on  the  waters. 
Besides  Savannah  and  Augusta,  there  is,  on  the  Savannah  river, 
a  little  town  called  Petersburg ;  and  in  the  interior,  between  tlie 
Savannah  and  Ogeeche,  is  Washington,  Both  these  are  thriving 
places. 

On  the  great  Ogeeche,  there  are,  besides  Louisville,  (^ar/aand 
Gi'emshurg.  .     .'  '       '.     >      •     j 

On  the  Altamaha  and  its  waters,  Dai  ien^  a  new  seaport,  Mil- 
LEDGEViLLE,  the  new  Seat  of  government,  and  Athens^,  the  seat  of  | 
a  college. 

On  St.  Mary's  river  is  the  town  of  St.  Mari/s,  at  the  southern  ] 
extremity  of  the  state. 

The  agriculture  and  produce  of  the  st^ite  are  neaily  similar  wl 
those  of  South  Carolina. 

A  great  degree  of  attention  has  been  paid,  in  Georgia,   to  edu- 
cation ;   and  very  considerable  funds  have  been  ai>propriated  to  the  | 
support  of  it.     The  college  at  Athens  is  amply  endowed,  and  pro 
vision  is  made  for  establishing  and  keeping  up  an  academy  in  ere^ 
>    '--,  ~-i,'^\  ,::''  .':-■•  yt^^^-iiitW '*'■' .  -*..  -.    ■'^-''  .•■•■-■ 


GIOBGIA.  209 

coanty  in  the  state.  In  the  towns,  there  Are  very  good  common 
ichools ;  but  the  state  is  yet  defective  as  to  the  establishment  of 
these  most  useful  seminaries  thronghout  the  country.  It  should  be 
mentioned,  however,  that  in  this,  and  all  the  southern  states,  the 
population  is  too  thin  to  admit  of  the  establishment  of  schools  upon 
the  plan  of  the  townships  of  the  northern  states,  or  the  parishes  in 
Scotland.  By  looking  at  the  census,  it  will  be  seen,  that  in  this 
state,  for  example,  a  township  of  six  miles  square,  or  36  square 
miles,  only  contains  about  112  persons;  from  which  if  we  deduct 
the  proportion  of  black  people,  it  leaves  only  75  ;  and  this  number 
would  not  be  sufficient  to  support  a  school.  On  the  other  hand, 
there  is  much  waste  land,  and  those  districts  that  are  settled  up, 
often  contain  much  more  than  this  proportion ;  sometimes,  indeed, 
a  sufficient  number  for  the  purpose  mentioned.  "Whenever  that  is 
the  case,  a  school  should  be  established. 

Before  taking  leave  of  this  subject,  I  may  notice,  that  the  best 
plan  of  establishing  country  schools,  probably,  is  to  appropriate  a 
public  fund  equal  to  one-half  of  what  may  be  considered  a  reason- 
able salary  to  the  teacher,  and  let  him  depend  on  his  class,  for  the 
other  halK  This  appears  to  be  a  happy  inedium  between  the  plan 
of  allowing  the  teacher  to  depend  wholly  on  his  class,  and  that  of  pro- 
viding a  public  fund  for  the  whole  of  the  salary.  In  the  one  case,  the 
teacher  is  not  sufficiently  independent ;  in  the  other,  education,  by 
being  made  too  cheap,  is  not  sufficiently  prized.  In  the  way  point- 
ed out,  the  independence  of  the  teacher  is  in  part  secured,  and  the 
dependence  on  a  contingency  for  the  remainder  has  a  tendency  to 
stimulate  both  teacher  and  pupils  to  exertion. 

In  all  cases,  provision  should  be  made,  that  the  children  of  the 
poor  may  be  taught  gratis.  Good  education  is  a  blessing  of  ines- 
timable value  to  a  community,  and  should  be  within  the  reach  of 
every  member. 

The  constitution  declares,  that  "  arts  and  sciences  shall  be  pro- 
moted, in  one  or  more  seminaries  of  learning ;  and  the  legislature 
shallgive  such  further  donations  and  privileges  to  those  already  estab- 
lished, as  may  be  necessary  to  secure  the  objects  of  their  institution." 

On  the  subject  of  religion,  it  is  declared,  that  "  no  person  with- 
in the  state  shall,  upon  any  pretence,  be  deprived  of  the  inesti- 
mable privilege  of  worshipping  God  in  a  manner  agreeable  to  his 
own  conscience,  nor  be  compelled  to  attend  any  place  of  worship, 
contrary  to  his  own  faith  and  judgment;    nor  shall  he  ever  be 


210 


TRAVILS  ON 


obliged  to  pay  tythes,  taxes,  or  any  other  ratci,  for  the  building 
or  repairing  any  place  of  worship,  or  for  the  maintenance  of  any 
minister  or  ministry,  contraiy  to  what  he  believes  to  be  right,  or 
hath  enpragcd  to  do.  No  religious  society  shall  ever  be  established 
in  this  state  in  preference  to  any  other :  nor  shall  any  person  be 
denied  the  enjoyment  of  any  civil  right,  merely  on  account  of  re- 
ligious principles."        i    ..-.  ■    . 

.  The  civil  government  is  vested  in  an  assembly,  consisting  of  » 
senate  and  house  of  representatives,  a  governor,  and  a  judiciary. 

The  assembly  are  elected  annually,  and  all  free  white  persons, 
who  are  of  age,  and  who  have  paid  taxes,  have  a  vote. 

The  governor  is  appointed  for  two  years,  by  the  legislature. 

The  judges  are  elected  by  the  legislature  for  three  years. 


'     CHAPTER  XLIV. 

-i '*     ?  K        Savannah f — Ships  of  war, — Liverpool, 

Sunday,  12th  April,  I8O7.  The  period  for  my  leaving  Sa- 
vannah being  arrived,  I  engaged  a  passage  by  the  Eliza,  Captain 
Starks,  and  this  morning  went  on  board  at  Five  Fathom  Hole, 
at  nine  o'clock.  The  other  passengers  were  two  gentlemen,  na- 
tives of  Scotland,  settled  as  merchants  in  Savannah :  one  gentl^ 
man,  a  native  of  Scotland,  who  had  been  resident  in  Savannah, 
and  was  proceeding  to  Liveipool  to  settle  there ;  an  English  gen- 
tleman, settled  as  a  merchant  in  the  upper  country ;  and  a  young 
gentleman  from  South  Carolina,  who  was  going  over  to  get  his 
education  in  England. 

Every  thing  being  prepared,  the  ship  weighed,  and  proceeded 
down  the  river  with  a  fair  but  light  breeze ;  but  on  reaching  Four 
Mile  Pointy  a  few  miles  below,  the  wind  veered  about  to  the  south- 
cast,  and  we  were  obliged  to  come  to  anchor,  where  we  lay  the 
remaining  part  of  the  day,  and  all  the  next  night,  tortured  by 
musquctoes* 

Monday,  13tli.  'the  wind  having  come  round  to  the  north- 
west, and  blowing  a  fine  breeze,  we  weighed  anchor  at  10  o'clocic, 
and  glided  down  the  river  very  swiftly.  At  half  past  eleven  we 
were  up  with  the  light-house,  and  at  twelve  we  passed  the  bar, 
and  tlicharged  the  pilot. 


THE    4TLANT1C  OCEAN.'  211 

We  had  now  a  delightful  breeze ;  and  the  Eliza,  being  one  of 
the  fastest  sailing  ships  in  America,  and  well  trimmed,  darted 
through  the  water  with  great  rapidity.  And  Captain  Starks,  the 
commander,  did  her  every  justice ;  to  use  his  own  phrase,  he 
did  cracli  on  the  muslin.  We  seldom  made  less  than  ]  50  miles  a 
(lay,  and  one  day  we  had  the  remarkable  run  of  253  miles.  In 
ten  days  we  were  past  the  banks  of  Newfoundland,  after  which  we 
had  a  series  of  north-east  winds,  which  kept  us  too  much  to  the 
southward,  but,  as  the  Eliza  sailed  remarkably  well  upon  the 
wind,  we  still  made  pretty  good  progress. 

On  the  27th  of  April,  we  discovered  a  vessel  to  windward  bear- 
ing right  down  upon  us,  under  French  colours.  On  getting  suf- 
ficiently near,  she  fired  a  gun  ahead,  and  we  hove  to,  not  a  little 
apprehensive  of  the  result.  On  coming  along  side,  the  captain 
hailed  us  in  broken  English,  and  said  lie  would  send  a  boat  a- 
board  pour  chearche  our  papiercs.  A  boat  was  accordingly  dis- 
patched, and  the  lieutenant,  a  young  Scotsman,  jumping  aboard, 
told  us  that  the  vessel  was  the  Rattler  sloop  of  war,  captain  Augu- 
2iez,  and  that  they  used  the  French  flag  and  language  for  a  decoy. 
We  ware  delighted  with  this  account,  treated  the  ofHcer  with  u 
glass  of  our  best  Madeira ;  and  he,  having  examined  our  papers 
and  found  every  thing  correct,  told  us  we  might  make  sail  as  soon 
as  we  observed  the  signal  from  the  vessel ;  so  saying,  he  jumped 
into  the  boat.  On  reaching  the  ship,  he  again  returned  with 
the  captain's  compliments,  who,  having  his  lady  and  two  children 
aboard,  requested  that  we  would  sell  them  some  sweet  flour  and 
biscuit.  We  immediately  made  up  an  assortment  of  these  articles, 
and  some  others,  which  the  captain  sent  with  a  return  of  his  com- 
pliments; and  receiving  the  signal,  we  made  sail,  and  parted 
with  mutual  ^ood  wishes. 

The  northerly  winds  still  continued,  and  the  weather  was  very 
wet  and  cold ;  but  we  made  pretty  good  progress,  and,  by  the 
4th  of  May,  we  were  within  a  few  days*  sail  of  Cape  Clear,  when 
we  were  brought  to  and  boarded  by  the  Dryade  frigate,  of  44- 
guns  and  250  men,  captain  Drummond  commander.  The  board- 
ing officer  here  was  also  a  Scotsman,  and,  like  the  other,  behaved 
with  great  politeness. 

He  told  us  they  had  been  one  of  the  convoy  to  the  West  In- 
dia fleet,  as  far  as  the  latitude  of  30  ;  that  they  had  been  out 
five  weeks,  and  were  to  cruize  between  the  Channel  and  W^estern 


IHAVfU  eN 


sit 

InlAtids  two  months.  He  reported  their  longitude  to  be  22o  ,sv 
by  the  chronometer.  Having  pot  a  quantity  of  letters  on  boani 
for  England,  he  told  us  we  might  set  sail  as  soon  as  they  madt 
the  signal. 

As  we  were  now  drawing  near  our  native  shores,  and  antici> 
pating  a  happy  meeting  "with  our  friends,  we  were  all  in  good 
spirits,  and  hod  various  theatrical  representations  in  the  style 
of  the  grand  sultan  and  his  faithful  slave  Shacabac,  which  great* 
ly  astonished  and  amused  the  ship's  company.  We  had  also  a 
series  of  moral  regulations,  which  laid  a  pretty  severe  penalty  on 
swearing.  I  was  appointed  the  executor  of  this  branch  oi*  the 
law ;  but  I  sometimes  found  a  difficulty  in  putting  it  into  execu- 
tion, particularly  with  our  Liverpool  merchant,  who,  when  we 
reached  the  Channel,  told  us  flatly,  that,  being  now  in  the  Brit- 
ish king's  dominions,  he  would  swear  if  we  were  all  d — d  on't. 
As  the  gentleman  was  under  the  influence  of  the  crown,  we  were 
e'en  obliged  to  submit  to  royal  authority,  and  the  fines  were 
thenceforth  remitted. 

We  passed  Cape  Clear  on  the  10th,  and  had  a  fine  view  of  tiie 
Irish  coast,  from  the  cape  to  the  Old  Head  of  Kinsale.  As  we 
glided  along  with  a  fair  wind,  vi  little  pilot  boat  came  off  from  the 
land  to  meet  us,  and  try  to  persuade  us,  no  doubt,  that  there 
would  be  a  gfeat  big  storm,  and  that  we  must  take  a  pilot  and 
run  in  for  the  coast.  But  the  Eliza  outsailed  him,  and  he  fell  a 
little  astern.     He  had  all  his  canvass  hoisted   to  the  breeze,  but 

without  effect.     "  By  J s,  you  sail  d d  sharp,  captwn !" 

said  he.  "  Pretty  well,"  said  the  captain.  "  Now,  if  you  would 
only  back  your  mizen-sail  a  bit,  I  would  come  aboard  and  tell  you 
all  about  the  land."  "  Thank  you,  thank  you,"  said  the  captaiu, 
*'  but  I  happen  to  know  something  about  it  already."  "  Then 
you  may  go  to  the  mischief  with  yourself,"  exclaimed  Paddy; 
*<  you'll  be  catched  in  a  great  big  storm  to-night,  and  the  d— 1 
make  matter."  So  saying,  he  put  about  and  stood  toward  the 
coast. 

On  the  1 1  th  we  passed  the  Cove  of  Cork,  which  presents  from 
sea  a  most  picturesque  view.  Oh  the  12th,  we  passed  the  curious 
insulated  rock,  well  known  to  seamen  by  the  name  of  Tiiscat- 
Kext  morning  we  were  round  Skerries-light,  when  we  were  en- 
veloped in  a  fog  so  thick  that  we  were  obliged  to  lie  to.  Here  we 
ouud  the  brig  Lucy  from  Sayannah,  in  the  same  situation.    She 


THE   ATlANTIC   OCKAN. 


t\$ 


faiul  sailed  fourtocn  days  before  us,  and  was  likely  to  get  into  port 
8ome  time  after  us. 

About  4  o'clock  in  the  aflernoon,  the  fog  cleared  away,  but 
the  wind  veered  about,  right  ahead,  and  wc  made  little  progreu. 
Next  morning,  howerer,  we  were  on  pilot  ground,  and  soon  dit- 
covered  a  boat,  to  which  we  made  signal,  which  was  answered 
bv  putting  one  of  her  hands  on  board. 

Wc  immediately  flocked  rouud  the  pilot  to  learn  the  news, 
but  he  could  tell  us  nothing,  except  that  there  was  a  new  election 
in  Liverpool.  He  could  assign  no  reason,  but  said  it  was  thought 
Mr.  Roscoe  would  not  be  member  again  :  wc  were  lost  in  con- 
jecture. 

The  head  winds  continued,  ond  we  did  not  raoke  the  north-west 
buoy  till  the  14th,  when  we  were  obliged  to  come  to  anchor. 
During  the  night  it  blew  a  furious  gale ;  as  wc  were  fast  at  an- 
chor, abreast  of  the  "  fast-anchored  isle,"  we  did  not  feel  it  much, 
but  a  pretty  lively  idea  of  it  may  be  formed  from  the  cap  tola's 
account :  he  said  "  it  was  enough  to  blow  the  hair  out  of  a  fel- 
low's head."  The  gale  continued  all  next  day,  and  there  was  no 
possibility  of  getting  on  shore,  though  we  were  very  anxious.  At 
length,  about  mid-day,  a  pilot  boat  hove  in  sight,  and  we  made 
signal  for  her.  She  came  along  side,  and  sent  out  her  yawl,  into 
which  the  passengers  got  with  considerable  difficulty,  and  such 
was  the  swell,  that  we  were  at  one  time  in  the  most  imminent  dan- 
ger of  being  upset  before  we  got  on  board  the  boat.  After  we 
did  get  on  board,  however,  we  were  recompensed  for  the  danger 
we  had  undergone.  Wc  got  some  fine  beef  and  potatoes,  and  a 
file  of  newspapers ;  and  here  I  made  the  discovery  that  a  great 
political  change  had  taken  place  in  Britain,  which  augured  most 
important  consequences  to  the  world;  and  particularly  to  that 
portion  of  it  we  had  lately  left — America. 

At  one  o'clock,  we  landed  at  Hoyle-lake,  where,  thanking  Gt>d 
for  our  safety,  and  kissing  our  parent  earth,  we  pursued  our  way 
to  a  tavern  in  the  neighbourhood. 

Having,  at  the  tavern,  procured  saddle  horses,  and  a  guide  to 
accompany  us,  we  set  out  for  Live^ol,  distant  about  seven  miles, 
and  made  a  pretty  respectable  cavalcade.  In  our  way  we  enjoy- 
ed the  land  scenery  as  much  as  the  blustering  weather  would  aU 
low  us.  When  we  were  about  half  way,  I  rode  towards  t^ie 
guide,  and  asked  how  fiir  we  were  from  Liverpool.     **  Indeed  I 


214 


TRAVKLt    IN 


doan't  know,"  sAid  he.  "  Oh,"  said  I,  "  I  presume  you  ure  t 
stranger  here  as  well  as  myself."  "  Anan!"  said  he.  "  Anon  !"  r. 
peuted  I,  with  surprise,  "  why,  I  suppose  j-ou  have  never  travel. 
led  this  road  before."  "  O  yeaz,  zur,  an  hundred  tymes."  "^Vhat, 
and  don't  know  the  distance  we  have  yet  to  go  !"  "  No  1  doan't." 
"Nor  the  distance  we  have  come?"  "No,  nor  that  neitlier." 
*'  Nor  the  wliole  distance?"  "  Noa ;  I  know  how  to  get  thear,  and 
I  know  how  to  get  back  agean,  and  that's  all  I  know  about  the 
meater."  Here  is  a  pretty  specimen  of  intelligence,  thinks  I  to 
myself.  "  Only  think  of  that,  master  Brook  !"  and  contrast  it  with 
the  keen  inquisitive  disposition  and  shrewd  answers  of  a  Ncw-Kng> 
land  man. 

We  reached  the  ferry  about  4  o'clock,  and  immediately  crossed 
over  to  Liverpool,  where  we  agreed  to  rendezvous  at  the  Kin^i's 
Arms  tavern ;  and  constituting  the  Liverpool  merchant  our  stew- 
ard, to  bespeak  a  dinner,  we  took  each  our  i>everal  way^  as  busi- 
ness or  friendship  directed. 


trade' 
new  ni 
ing  11 II 
ni/ed  f 
vour  ol 
ntid  III 
^  Bonapn 
(]ucr  all 
critnitia 
rcasuii 
tliougiit 


CHAPTER  XLV. 

Liverpooolf — Electioriy — Chairing  the  members. 

After  parting  with  the  company,  I  went  immediately  to  the 
cofiee-bouse,  to  examine  into  the  causes  of  the  change  of  councils; 
and  to  form  a  judgment,  if  possible,  what  effect  tlie  measure 
would  have  upon  the  American  trade.  I  took  a  file  of  the  Lon« 
don  Courier  on  the  one  hand,  and  of  the  Morning  Chronicle  on 
the  other,  and  traced  the  whole  proceedings,  step  by  step,  till  I 
came  to  lord  Grenville's  explanation  in  the  house  of  lords,  and 
that  of  Mr.  Grey  in  the  commons.  I  saw  that  bigotry,  prejudice, 
illiberality,  and  corruption,  had  prevailed  over  virtue,  patriotism, 
and  integrity.  I  exclaimed,  woe  is  my  country !  and,  with  a  hea- 
vy heart,  went  to  join  my  companions  at  the  dinner  table. 

The  next  object  of  inquiry,  and  in  which  I  was  most  deeply 
interested,  was  the  probable  effect  that  this  change  would  have 
upon  the  American  relations;  and  here  again  my  anticipations 
were  far  from  being  favourable.  I  observed  that  one  part  of  the 
play  upon  the  passions  of  the  English  nation,  and  a  very  success- 
-  ful  one,  was  to  hold  out  the  idea  of  a  "  universal  monopoly  of 


ENGLAND. 


!ei5 


trudo."  1  ''C  doctrine  was  openly  und  loudly  promulgated  by  the 
new  miiu»try  and  their  pnrtisans,  that  there  was  no  use  in  hav- 
ing a  naval  force  created  at  such  an  exprnec,  nnleas  it  was  8o  orga- 
ni/ecl  and  conducted  a »  to  controul  the  trade  ofthe  world  in  fa- 
vour of  Iritain.  The  sea  ought  of  right  to  he  British  property, 
and  not  a  vessel  should  sail  the  ocean  but  by  Briti^th  permission. 
Bonaparte  had  conquered  all  the  land,  and  Britain  should  con- 
(lucr  all  the  sea;  and  the  late  administration  were  charged  with  a 
criminal  neglect  of  duly  in  not  enforcing  tliese  principles.  1  saw 
reason  to  dread  that  they  would  be  enforced  now.  I  knew,  or 
tiiou'^lit  I  knew,  that  America  would  not  submit  to  them ;  and 
hence  I  feared  a  rupture.  1  observed,  however,  that  Mr.  Erskinc 
was  to  be  continued  as  ambassador,  and,  reflectmg  on  the  nature 
ofthe  American  government,  I  considered  that  there  would  be 
no  rupture  on  their  part  before  they  had  tried  ncgociation  to  the 
utmost.  I  therefore  judged  it  expedient,  under  all  circumstances, 
to  go  on  with  my  business,  and  to  take  prompt  measures  to  make 
my  shipment  accordingly. 

During  the  few  days  I  stopped  in  Liverpool,  I  was  ardently  en« 

I  gaged  in  making  commercial  arrangements,  and  had  time  for  few 

remarks  that  would  be  interesting  to  the  general  reader;  I  shall 

therefore  only  notice  two  or  three  circumstances,  calculated  to  show 

|thetemperof  the  times,  • 

We  were  informed  that  tliere  had  been  an  election  in  Liverpool 
I  two  days  before  we  arrived.  The  tory  candidates  were  generals 
I  Tarleton  and  Gascoyne ;  the  whig  candidate,  Mr.  Roscoe.  Tory 
principles  were  tremendously  triumphant — so,  much  so  that  Mr. 
I  Roscoe  durst  not  even  appear  at  the  hustings ;  and  his  friend,  colo- 
nel Taylor,  who  was  proceeding  there  in  his  behalf,  was  intercepted 
|by  aband  of  armed  men,  and  had  his  horse  killed  under  him. 

The  tavern  where  we  lodged  was  mostly  frequented  by  travellers 
Ion  business,  and  the  evenings  were  generally  devoted  to  long  and 
Ifcrvent  discussions,  sometimes  animated  debates.  As  the  company 
jwere  collected  from  all  quarters  of  the  island,  we  had  a  good  oppor- 
[tuuity  of  learning  the  public  sentiment  in  general ;  and  it  appeared 
I  to  me  to  be  in  favour  ofthe  new  ministry,  by  a  vast  majority  of  the 
jleading  men  in  the  country. 

During  my  ttay  in  Liverpool,  "  the  chairing  of  the  members," 
las  it  is  called,  took  place.  It  was  conducted  in  this  way :  Chairs, 
|«f  elegant  workmanship,   were  provided,  richly  ornamented  with 


216 


TR&VEI^   IN 


I? 


4 


M 


•ilks  and  dr^ry,  principally  of  the  colour  of  the  members'  liren-; 
they  had  cushions  for  seats,  and  two  sides  supported  a  pavilion  roof 
on  each :  they  were  borne  on  appropriate  carriffgcs,  hsring  two 
poles,  and  the  candidates  were  carried  on  them  by  a  number  of 
men,  from  the  place  of  election  through  those  parts  of  the  town 
that  fancy  or  vanity  directed. 

In  this  procession  General  Tarleton  took  the  lead.  Hi»  liTen 
was  green,  the  other's  blue.  Tliey  were  both  richly  dressed  in  re« 
gimentals.  They  stood  up  uncovered  in  the  chairs,  and  proceeded 
ftlowly  along,  looking  and  bowing  in  all  directions  to  the  populac% 
who  in  return  waved  streamers  of  green  and  blue  ribbons  from 
the  windows.  Round  each  chair  were  a  number  of  persons  cairj- 
ing  poles  with  boards  nailed  to  the  tops  of  them,  and  labels  pasted 
on  the  boards.  These  also  deserve  notice.  "  No  popery."  "  Church 
and  king."  "  Long  live  the  king."  "  No  dictating  to  the  royjl 
conscience."  "  If  I  forsake  my  king,  may  God  forsake  me ;"  and 
ft  hundred  other  sayings,  the  presumed  sentiments  of  the  members, 
were  thus  exhibited  to  the  multitude ;  who,  in  return,  testified  their 
loyalty  in  repeated  claps  and  huzzas,  accompanied  by  flourishes  of 
blue  and  green  ribbons.  Even  the  members  of  the  frail  sisterhood, 
with  which  the  town  swarms,  were  flourishing  away  in  green  and 
blue,  in  all  directions,  damning  pink  and  Mr.  Roscoe,  and  swear- 
ing to  their  loyalty  and  their  devotion  to  the  king  and  the  two 
generals. 

In  the  afternoon  I  met  with  a  friend  in  the  street,  and  we  adjourn- 
ed  to  a  tavern  to  get  some  porter.  Here  we  found  a  crowd  of  mot- 
ley politicians,  with  some  of  whom  I  entered  into  conversation;  when 
I  found,  to  my  great  astonishment,  that  the  privilege  of  a  freeman 
in  Liverpool  could  only  be  obtained  by  seven  years  servitude  to  s 
fieeman ;  and  that  such  freemen  only  had  a  vote  for  members  of 
parliament.  Hence  a  great  number  of  the  most  opulent  and  res- 
pectable merchants  in  this  vci^  important  seaport  are  totally  exclud- 
ed from  voting ;  and  the  exercise  of  that  privilege  is  confined  to  a  I 
class  of  men,  many  of  whom  arc  very  ill  calculated  for  exercising  its 
important  functions.  Of  this  we  had  some  very  decisive  proof  be- 
fore I  left;  the  house,  particularly  from  one  man,  who,  while  heplunl- 
ed  himself  upon  his  right,  as  he  termed  it,  and  exhibited,  with  bo  | 
umall  exultation,  his  bit  of  green  ribbon,  which  he  called  his  liverr, 
{flowed  by  his  conversation  that  right  and  wrong  Were  subjects  on 
which  he  was  very  incompetent  to  form  an  opinion.  I  am  nfnid 
that  too  many  of  the  voters  in  Liverpool  are  of  that  description. 


ENGLAND.  217 

The  elective  frauohise  is  a  most  sacred  trust,and  ought  to  be  ex- 
ercised with  great  circumspection,  inasmuch  as  it  is  the  very  safe- 
guard of  tlie  hberties  of  a  nation.  Hence,  those  entrusted  with  it 
khould  be  carefully  informed  of  their  duties  as  well  as  rights ;  and 
hence  the  importance  of  diffusing  knowledge  among  the  mass  of  the 
people.  They  constitute  the  wealth  and  strength  of  a  nation :  they 
arc  generally  honest  in  intention ;  but  knowledge  alone  can  regu- 
late their  actions  so  as  to  produce  a  beneficial  result  in  practice. 
Unfortunately,  however,  a  strong  prejudice  eadsts  among  many  who 
have  received  a  liberal  education  themselves,  against  any  plan  hav- 
ing for  its  object  the  general  diffusion  of  that  inestimable  blessing; 
and  wc  may,  of  course,  expect  that  those  who  object  to  theif  fellow 
men  participating  with  them  in  knowledge^  will  also  object  to  their 
participating  with  them  in  power.  In  such  a  state  of  society,  wher- 
ever power  may  partially  extend  to  the  moss  of  the  people,  as  in  the 
case  before  us,  we  may  expect  to  see  it  abused.  But  in  this  enlight- 
ened period  of  the  world,  we  may  hope  soon  to  see  both  knowledge 
and  power  generally  diffused  among  mankind,  and  that  a  period  of 
political  jealousy  and  discord  will  be  succeeded  by  a  hap^y  period 
of  '<  peace  on  earth  and  good  will  among  men." 


i>'-r 


...'!}    .:i.i// 


CHAPTER  XLVI. 


Liverpool, — Lancaster, — Carlisle, — Glasgow,  .      ' 

ill  AY  1 9th.  I  set  out  for  Glasgow,  accompanied  by  one  of  our 
passengers,  whose  connexions  lived  in  that  city.  The  conveyance 
from  hence  to  Carlisle  was  by  what  is  called  the  heavy  or  long  coach, 
and  it  took  two  days  to  perform  the  journey,  324  miles. 

We  started  at  8  or  9  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  passing  through 
Qrmskirk  and  Preston,  reached  Lancaster,  55  miles  from  Liverpool, 
wiere  we  stopped  for  dinner.  The  weather  was  agreeable;  the 
Qountry,  in  all  that  distance,  is  ^ell  cultivated,  exhibiting  a  veiy 
pretty  appearance.  Qrmskirk  is  a  place  of  little  consequence ;  but 
Preston  has  a  population  of  14,000,  and  carries  on  manufactures, 
particularly  in  cotton,  to  a  great  extent. 

Lancaster  is  the  county  town,  handsomely  situated  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river  Lone,  and  contains  about  8000  inhabitants.  It  has  oon- 
N^erable  commerce,    but  very  little  to  America ;    itt  chief  manu* 


•■' :  '{* 


wt 


n 


'J » 


*lcl  TRAVELS   IN 

facturei  hcmjg  sail-cloth,  ftirniture,  hardwaf^,  Cfincllefi,  &t.  the 
duke  6f  Bridgewatfer's  canal  runs  near  Larrcaster,  and  crosses  the 
river  by  a  Veiy  sijacious  aqueduct  bridge,  built  of  hewti  stotie,  whtA 
has  a  fine  appearance  when  viewed  from  the  road. 

After  dinner,  we  continued  our  jonrncy  18  mile*  to  Kendal, 
vrtiere  we  stopped  for  the  night.  The  country  is  pleasant  all  the 
way  to  Kendal ;  and,  mnntng  through  a  hilly  country,  aifonls 
many  iSrie  views.    ■       '^-       -  - 

Onfe  of  our  passengors  was  a  shrjitping-mctchant  fhrni  London, 
and  Vie  expressed  his  disapprobation  of  the  Me  ministry,  in  very 
severe  terms,  for  not  shutting  up  the  carrymg  trade  of  the  Ameri- 
cans. My  fellow-traveller  and  I  ettdcavoured  to  reason  with  him, 
and  to  poirit  "but  the  importance  of  the  Amierican  trade  to  Britain, 
and  the  injustice  t^iat  it  would  be  to  stop  it :  but  this  man  of  com- 
merce would  listen  to  no  reason,  and  would  bend  to  no  maxims  of 
justice.  "  \Ve  are  able  to  carry  on  the  whole  trade  of  the  world," 
said  he,  "  and  we  should  have  it.  Our  ifleets  are  aW-powerfuI,  and 
we  should  command  it."  He  seemed  to  forget,  that  there  arfe  jd- 
ways  two  at  a  bargain-making ;  and  that  no  ndtion  can  carry  on  a 
foreign  trade  alone.  ■     "'  -  -  ;.    — '•♦.i^*^ ----■• -i- 

Ke?idal  is  beautifully  situated  in  a  fine  healthy  country,  and  the 
women  have  cheeks  like  roses.  It  is  a  pretty  large  town,  and  has 
considerable  manufactories  of  Cottoiis,  'Wobllens,  stockings,  hats, 
&c. ;  some  of  which  are  calculated  for  the  American  trade. 

May  20th.  We  set  o»t  at  7  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  travelled 
through  a  roiigh,  hilly  country,  called  Sbap-Fells,  27  miles,  to 
Penrith.  The  country  is  but  thinly  inhabited  in  this  district,  and  the 
i  nhabitants  seem  to  be  mostly  employed  in  raisif^  sheep  and  geese. 

Penrith  is  a  neat  little  place,  containing  about  SOOO  people. 
The  cotintry  to  the  eastward  i»  high  and  barren,  but  it  is  fertile  to 
the  vrestward,  and  abounds  in  thriA'ing  farms.  The  eoimtry  im- 
proves tbwnrds  Carlisle,  18  mile»  distant,  rati nd  which  it  is  culti- 
vated like  a  garden.  ,  .•f,.:.:ii};iij;irt,     ..  i.^v 

Having  reached  Carlisle  ^liout  1  o'clock,  wc  proposed  going  o» 
to  Glasgow  by  the  London  mail,  expected  in  half  an  hour,  and,  in 
the  mean  time,  we  took  a  wtdk  through  the  town. 

Carli:>le  is  prettily  situated,  and  contains  a  population  of  10,060. 
It  is  favourably  situated  for  carrying  on  manufactures,  which  arc  in 
an  improved  state,  and  consist  of  cottouHspuining  and  weaving; 
priming  and  dying  j   coarse  linenscand  Osnaburglis ;  hats,  hosiervi 


Icgthei'i  ro^ieS)  and  sicveral  kinds  of  woollens*  Sioin^  of  fhe  i^rti^}^^ 
particularly  printed  calicoes,  are  in  high  repute. 

On  the  arrival  of  the  mail  stn^re,  we  found  all  the  inside  plac^ 
taken,  and  we  had  no  alternative  but  to  wait  ano^hqr  day,  or  take 
outside  places.  The  iattcr  was  resolved  oq ;  and,"  having  nippnted 
on  the  top,  the  coach  drove  on.  We  anticipated  that  av^  would 
suffer  a  little  from  the  cold,  albeit  it  was  late  in  May»  but  we  were 
sure  that  if  all  kept  well,  we  could  see  our  frienfis  by  7  Q*clof)c 
in  the  morning. 

Ten  miles  from  Carlisle,  we  passed  through  LongtO>vn,  a  sn^aU 
place  on  the  confipQs  of  England ;  ai^d  a  littl§  beyond  ihi^  we 
crossed  a  little  stream,  and  hailed 

'■"'■*  "Old  Scotia,  our  dear,  our  native  soil.**  ■ 

Here  we  had  a  very  extensive  view.  Solviay  firtl\  a  very  large  in- 
let from  the  Irish  sea,  was  on  our  right ;  ainl  beyond  it,  the  Cum^ 
berland  moiuitains,  some  of  them  of  great  magnitude.  To  the 
west,  north-west,  and  north,  we  saw  50  or  60  miles  into  the  in- 
terior of  Scotland ;  and  a  fine  champaign  coiuitry  lay  on  our  rear 
towards  Carlisle. 

Four  miles  from  hence  is  the  village  of  Gretna  Oreen,  celebrat- 
ed for  the  coupling  blackfunith  who  lives  in  it.  Tlie  laws  of  mar- 
ritiige  in  Scotland  are  very  simple.  If  two  persons  agree  to  marry, 
they  can  carry  their  intention  into  efEfXt  by  declaring  their  union 
before  witnesses;  acd  this,  though  contrary  to  the  rules  of  tlic 
church,  and  to  the  general  practice  of  the  country,  constitutes  a 
legal  marriage.  It  is  ako  applicable  to  the  natives  of  South  Britain 
when  they  come  to  the  north ;  on  which  account,  it  frequently 
hi^pens,  that  when  a  {^ntleman  and  lady  in  England  iall  ii»  k)v«, 
and  cannot  live  without  one  another,  while  tUey  are  so  unlbrtunato 
iu  not  to  be  able  obtain  the  consent  of  tlieir  fri^ids,  they  set  off 
an  a  matrimonial  trip  to  Scotland;  and  this  being  the  neai-est  vil- 
lage, on  one  of  the  great  roads,  such  marriages  are  frequently 
solemnized  here.  The  person  who  acts  as  parson  on  the  occasion, 
but  who,  in  truth,  is  only,  along  with  one  or  two  more,  a  witness 
to  the  declaration,  is  called  a  coupling  blacksmith  ;  and  the  whole  cir- 
cumstance has  given  rise  to  a  humorous  farce,  called  Gretna  Green. 

The  road  beyond  this  place  was  very  rough,  but  it  was  dry. 
We  had  a  find  evening;  but  towards  night  it  became  very  cold. 
We  passed  Locherby,  a  small  place,    and  reached   Moffat,    fifty 


% 


920 


TKAVEtS   IN 


miles  from  Carlisle,  to  supper.  This  is  a  little  place  among  the 
hills,  and  only  merits  notice  as  the  stopping-place  of  the  stages,  on 
the  way  to  and  from  England.  There  are  some  good  medicinal 
springs  in  its  neighbourhood. 

Leaving  Moffat,  we  had  to  cross  a  large  chain  of  hills ;  but  I  can 
give  no  particular  account  of  the  configuration  of  the  country; 
for,  though  I  have  often  passed  through  it,  it  has  always  been  in 
the  night.  The  night  was  now  very  cold ;  but  a  gentleman  left  the 
mail  at  Moffat,  and  we  engaged  his  seat  $  so  we  changed  guard, 
and  took,  as  the  sailors  call  it,  "  spell  and  spell  about"  of  the  inside. 

In  this  way  we  passed  the  sources  of  the  Clyde,  and  the  Lead 
hills  to  the  right,  and  journeyed  onward  at  a  good  pace.  As  I  \ras 
taking  my  outside  station,  about  day-light,  I  heard  a  dialogue  be* 
twcen  the  iwo  drivers  in  broad  Scots,  being  the  first  I  had  heard 
for  14*  months;  and,  such  is  the  effect  of  habit,  that,  although! 
considered  myself  a  sort  of  adept  at  the  Scottish  language,  and 
had  frequently  practised  it,  this  had  a  surprising  effect  upon  my 
ear.  It  appeared  more  broad  than  any  thing  I  had  ever  heard  b^ 
fore.  "  A,  Johnny,  mill,"  says  the  one,  "  I  canna  get  this  thing 
fixt"  «  Can  ye  no  ?"  said  the  other ;  "  what  ails't?"  «  Goth,  I 
dinna  ken  weel ;  but  it  winnadraw  through  wi*  me."  **  Ye'll  bet- 
ter cut  it."  "  Na,  I'll  no  fash  to  do  that  yet;  I'll  tak  my  teetii 
tiirt."  I  could  liOt  see  what  they  were  about;  but  they  soon  got 
it  to  righti),  whatever  it  was,  and  we  drove  on. 
.  About  sun-rise,  we  reached  the  village  of  Hamilton,  the  seat  of 
one  of  the  most  ancient  families  of  Scotland.  It  is  1 1  miles  from 
Glasgow,  on  the  river  Clyde,  in  a  fine  fertile  valley,  and  is  noted 
for  raising  fruit.  A  great  many  muslin  weavers,  who  work  for  the 
manufacturers  of  Glasgow,  live  at  this  place.  Indeed,  they  are 
scattered  all  over  the  country. 

We  passed  Clyde  iron-works,  the  second  in  extent  in  Scotland, 
and  reached  Glasgow  at  7  o'clock,  when  I  had  a  joyful  inecting 
with  my  firiends,  after  an  absence  of  nearly  15  months.  , 


\ 


,i  ♦., 


•  •-''*  r;  *■  ■  ■^' 


ISKGLANOi.  211 

,'    ..  ..'..  ':■.'  '  '  ".        '      '  "'•-  I'''     "'       ".'    L  ■ 

CHAPTER  XLVIL      > 

.:   I      ■•<  ■  ■  ■  . 

Glasgow,— ^-Manchester, — Leeds, — Edinburghm       '   - 

I  CONTINUED  in  Glasgow  until  the  19th  of  June,  wIkb,  ia 
prosecution  of  my  commercial  business,  I  set  out  for  England. 
took  a  passage  by  the  mail  coach,  and  travelled  through  ~ 
and  Preston,  to  Manchester.  The  country  from  Preston  to 
Chester  is  probably  among  the  richest  in  England.  The  fiddb  are 
well  cultivated ;  the  houses  are  so  close,  that  it  looks  like  «  oaaati> 
nued  village;  and  the  quantity  of  machinery  and  bleach-fidds  duA 
every  where  appears  is  immense.  The  road  passes  through  €3iar- 
ley  and  Bolton,  both  manu&cturing  villages ;  but  the  whole  of 
their  trade  is  subservient  to  Manchester,  which  may  be  considep- 
ed  as  the  great  manufacturing  capital  of  all  England.  The  dis- 
tance from  Preston  to  Manchester  is  36  miles. 

From  Mai.chester  I  found  it  necessary  to  go  to  Liverpool,  dis- 
toDt  36  miles.  The  road  passes  through  a  rich,  well-cultivKted^ 
level  country,  in  which  are  two  considerable  villages,  Warringtoa 
and  Prescott.  The  country  becomes  more  sterile  towards  LifCT" 
pool;  but  this  part  of  it  is  beautified  by  many  seats,  the  propertf 
of  the  Liverpool  merchants.  Among  the  number  is  Gilead  HaO^ 
the  seat  of  Dr.  Solomon,  of  Balm  of  Gilead  memory,  one  (^  the 
most  beautiful  buildings  in  England.  .     t . 

My  commercial  friend  in  Liverpool  being  a  prompt  man  of 
business,  I  made  an  arrangement  with  him,  in  the  course  of  a  fear 
hours,  to  my  entire  satis&ction;  and  immediately  returned  ti» 
Manchester.  From  the  ample  assistance  a£Porded  me  by  my  fnend^ 
I  was  able  to  expedite  my  business  in  this  place  with  ^reat  cde- 
rity,  and  I  had  an  excellent  opportunity  of  observing  the  veiy  ex- 
tended manufactures  and  commerce  pf  this  place,  and  thdr  appli- 
cation to  the  American  trade.  .....;• 

Manchester,  though  it  ranks  only  as  a  village^  is  a  pUoe  of 
great  antiquity,  a  town  having  been  raised  here  by  the  Romans 
in  the  97th  year  of  the  Christian  sera,  and  is  now,  in  ptnnt  of 
population,  the  second  town  in  England ; — in  manufactures  de- 
cidedly the  first.  The  streets  are  about  600  m  number,  and  some 
pf  them  spacious;  but  a  great  many  are  too  narrow,  and  the  town 
is,  upon  the  whole,   very  irregular.     The  number  of  hooics  is 


■•ys.  m. 

ii 

Wmm 

1  ^r^.-ul*@alva 

^.i^ 

?im 

^2  TRAVKLS    IN 

computed  at  upwards  of  12,000)  and  the  iiihabitants  amount  to 
84,020. 

Manufactures  have  been  established  at  this  place  for  upwards  of 
200  years,  and  have  been  continually  encreasing ;  but  (he  encrensc 
since  the  application  of  machinery,  on  an  extended  scale,  to  the 
cotton  tradev  and  particularly  since  the  introduction  of  Bolton 
ind  Watt's  improved  st«am  engine,  exceeds  all  former  exr.mplu, 
in  any  place  or  any  country.  There  are  a  vast  number  of  cotton 
nills  erected  in  the  town,  and  many  of  them  employ  upwards  of 
1000  hands.  The  quantity  of  raw  material  consnmed  annually 
lu  this  branch,  U  immense,  and  a  bare  enumeration  of  the  articles 
h  ill  nuinufaotured  into,  would  fill  a  number  of  pages.  Those 
nmt  calculated  for  the  American  trade  arc  fustians,  waistcoat- 
Ui{;s,  shirtings,  cambrics,  dimities,  painted  callicoes,  nankeens, 
j«ttns,  checks,  ginghams,  chambrays,  table  napery,  stockings, 
^ovos,  braces,  b^-quiltit,  &c.  &c.  Of  other  articles  there  are 
also  extensive  and  important  manufactures,  such  as  hats,  silks, 
t*p€S)  fringes,  laces,  &c. ;  and  Manchester  is  a  geneitil  market 
ifnt  the  manufactures  of  the  whole  country,  particularly  every  de- 
•cription  of  woollens. 

Fmm  Manchester  I  travelled  to  Bury,  nine  miles,  through  an 
VICV^  but  fertile  and  well-cultivated  country.  The  principal 
SUMttfaetures  here  ar«  woollens,  particularly  plains,  coatings,  blan- 
kets, iwd  fknnels*        ,.i\iti  V   .^^i  -A.     ^  'ii   .Ai    !■  : 

From  Bury  to  Rochdale  is  6  miles,  the  country  nearly  the  same 
ii*  th«  hst  mentioned.  Here  are  considerable  manufactures,  par- 
riealariy  flannels  of  a  very  excellent  quality. 
•-H^rom  Rochdale  to  Halifax  is  17  miles,  partly  through  anex- 
tM&^ite  moor;  and  the  whole  country  is  hilly,  some  of  it  romantic. 
At  Halifax  there  are  very  extensive  manufactures  of  woollens, 
plltticuTariy  of  broad  and  narrow  cloths. 

Frditi  Halifex  to  Leeds  is  18  miles,  through  a  hilly  country,  of 
which  the  soil  improves  towards  the  latter. 

L^>  is  beauti^Uy  situated  iti  a  very  fertile  country,  and  is 
Ae  ^teateat  town  in  England  lor  the  woollen  manufactures.  The 
most  iwipotlant  manufectures  for -America  are  bi'oad  ami  narrow 
dethS)  fiannek,  serges,  cassimeres,  calamancoes,  durants,  bom* 
ktteem,  bemtsaeeits,  biankets,  8cc.  The  population  is  upwardi 
<ir  58^000,  and  the  to^'n  abonnds  m  wealth.  The  country  around 
iirfeitHeftnd  bemj^wl.  .. 


> 


its  amount  to 


From  tills  place  I  passed  alwut  12  miles,  through  a  pretty 
woll-sintled  country,  but  partly  moor,  to  the  great  London  ron(f, 
wirli  I  view  of  taking  my  })a?8age  for  Glasgow  by  the  London 
nrnil.  When  the  mail  came  forward,  it  w*as  full,  and^I  was  disap- 
pointed ;  bnt  a  coach  passed  soon  after  for  Newcastle,  and  being 
informed  t>mt  the  line  was  continued  from,  thence  to  Edinburgh, 
I  availed  myself  of  that  conveyance. 

It  was  nbout  1 1  o'clock  at  night  when  we  set  out,  and,  travel- 
ling all  night,  we  passed  through  Northallerton,  about  30  mile* 
from  \^  here  we  started,  at  day-light  next  morning.  The  country^ 
I  was  informed,  is  pretty  fertile  and  well  cultivated. 

From  Northallerton  to  Durham  is  about  27  miles,  through  a 
pretty  fertile  country,  arid  Durham,  the  capital  of  the'  county  of 
the  same  name,  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  river  Wear,  sur- 
rounded by  fertile  and  well  cultivated  fields. 

From  Durham  to  Newcastle  is  16  miles,  partly  tliroftgh  fertile 
fields,  but  the  soil  becomes  worse  towards  Newcastle,  and  in  that 
neighbourhood  the  country  abounds  with  coal  mines.  We  had 
frequent  and  extensive  view  of  the  German  Ocean  by  the  way, 
and  I  could  not  help  contrasting  the  breadth  of  the  country,  not 
much  more  than  a  day's  journey,  with  the  extended  country  which 
I  had  lately  left.  Ought  not  Britain,  exclaimed  I  mentally,  to  be 
proud  of  having  settled  America,  to  conciliate  the  affections  at 
her  growing  population,  and  to  cultivate  a  good  understanding  ? 

Newcastle  is  situated  on  the  river  Tyne,  and  is  large  and  popu- 
lous, but  irregular,  arid  not  very  clean ;  it  is  chiefly  remarksfbld 
for  its  great  coal  trade,  the  greater  part  of  the  supply  of  the  English 
metropolis  beitig  derived  from  it. 

Here  I  stopped  all  night,  and  started  by  the  coach  for  Edin- 
burgh next  morning,  at  5  o'clock.  At  14  mile?  from  Newcastle, 
we  reached  Morpeth,  an  inconsiderable  town,  and,  1 9  miles  fur- 
ther, we  reached  Alnwick,  the  seat  of  the  earl  of  Northumberland. 
The  castle  is  beautifully  situated  on  an  eminence,  and  it  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  high  wall  at  a  distance,  which  encloses,  I  presume, 
nearly  300  acres  of  ground,  all  laid  out  for  grazing.  Thew-hole' 
has  a  most  magnificent  appearance.  From  Alnwick  to  Herrndk 
I  is  27  miles.  In  the  whole  distance  from  Newcastle  to  Berwick, 
I  the  country  presents  a  pretty  uniform  appearance.  The  soil,  ex- 
I  cept  at  some  particular  places,  is  rather  thin.  There  are  fii^W 
I  lands  to  the  west,  and  to  the  east  is  the  German  ocean,    rilongf 


tM 


TKAVEtii  nr 


the  road  rnns  within  a  few  miles  the  whole  way.    To- 
Berwick^  it  is  almost  close  along  shore. 

Bnwkk  is  situated  on  the  Tweed,  near  the  border  of  Scotland, 
.  pretty  populous,  but  irregularly  built  town,  and  carries 
•n  cootklerable  manufactures.  But  it  is  chiefly  remarkable  for 
Acwlmon  fisheries,  which  are  very  extensive,  and  employ  a  num* 
berofsmall  vessels  in  the  London  trade,  called  Berwick  smacks. 

A  fern  miles  from  Berwick,  we  passed  the  Scottish  border,  at 
a  house  was  pointed  out,  where  matrimonial  contracts  are 
:  on  the  same  principle  as  at  Gretna  Green.  After  passing 
this  place,  the  road  leaves  the  sea-coast,  and  crosses  the  country 
tbraagh  elevated  lands,  but  apparently  pretty  fertile,  and  under 
cscriknt  cultivation;  and  this  continues  to  Dunbar,  toward 
vhkfa  the  road  approaches  the  coast  of  the  Firth  of  Forth. 

Dunbar  is  a  pretty  large  and  ancient  town,  finely  situated  on 
the  Forth,  firom  whence  there  is  an  elegant  view  of  the  singular 
lodk  called  the  Bass,  North- Berwick  Law,  the  coasts  of  the  firtb, 
and  the  interior  of  the  county  of  Fife.  It  is  11  miles  from  Ber- 
vide  to  Haddington,  a  considerable  place,  and  16  miles  more 
to  Edinburgh,  the  capital  of  Scotland.  In  all  this  distance  the 
ami  is  lacellent,  aud  the  agriculture  in  the  most  improved  state. 
We  reached  Edinburgh  at  10  o'clock  at  night,  having  travelled 
tkn  day  120  miles. 

Edinburgh  is,  without  exception,  the  roost  beautiful  city  that  I 
have  yet  seen.  Its  situation  is  singular.  To  the  eastward  of  the 
ci^  is  a  conical  hill,  called  Arthur's  Seat :  its  base  is  probably  a- 
bout  half  a  mile  in  diameter,  and  it;  is  700  feet  high.  To  the  north* 
west  of  this  is  a  ridge  of  hills  called  Salisbury  Craigs,  probably  a- 
bout  one  third  of  a  mile  in  length,  and  about  350  feet  high,  having 
a  sfeq)  acclivity  on  the  west,  which  overhangs  the  eastern  part  of 
the  city.  Near  the  foot  of  these  the  city  commences,  and  from 
thence  the  High-street  runs  due  west  about  a  mile,  rising  at  an  an* 
gle  of  about  10  degrees  from  the  horizon,  and  at  its  extremity  ii 
terminated  by  the  Castle,  on  a  rock,  from  whence  there  is  a  perpen* 
dicular  descent  of  about  350  feet.  This  ridge  is  only  of  sufficient 
breadth  on  the  top  to  form  the  street,  from  whence  it  immediately 
Mb  by  a  steep  descent  on  both  sides,  and  nearly  to  a  level  with  the 
^t  of  the  High-street.  To  the  south,  a  narrow  street  called  the 
Cowgate,  runs  in  the  hollow,  aud,  beyond  it,  the  ground  again  im- 
mediately rises,  and  spreads  out  into  an  open  plain,  on  wliicl^  standi 


SCOTLAND. 


225 


the  south  part  of  the  town.  The  hollow  to  the  north  is  called  the 
North  Loch,  because  it  was  once  filled  with  water;  but  it  is  now 
drained ;  and  to  the  north  of  it  the  ground  rises,  and  spreads  out 
into  a  fine  plain,  on  which  the  New  Town  is  built.  ^^'^■'^ 

To  the  east  of  the  New  I'own  there  is  a  smaller  hill  called  Calton 
Hill,  which  is  public  property,  and  affords  fine  walks  and  most  a- 
greeable  prospects. 

The  Old  Town  is  remarkable  for  its  singular  configuration,  and 
lofty  houses,  some  of  them  14^  stories  high;  and  the  New 
Town,  whether  we  view  it  in  regard  to  the  elegance  of  its  plan,  or 
the  regularity,  symmetry,  and  beauty  of  its  buildings,  is  beyond  all 
comparison  the  most  elegant  city  I  ever  saw.  *.kiyEw 

The  Old  and  New  Towns  are  connected  by  the  North  Bridge, 
an  elegant  building,  which  crosses  the  North  Loch ;  and  a  fine  street 
is  continued  across  the  High-street,  and  by  the  South  Bridge  cross- 
es the  Cowgate,  and  connects  the  south  part  with  the  north  part. 
This  bridge  has  elegant  buildings  on  each  side,  except  at  the  mid- 
dle, where  they  are  interrupted  by  the  Cowgate;  and  here  the  view 
is  as  singular  as  can  well  be  imagined  :  being  elevated  on  the  bridge, 
you  see  the  busy  inhabitants  below,  to  the  east  and  west,  the  whole 
length  of  the  street 

Leith  is  considered  as  the  port  of  Edinburgh,  and  is  connected 
with  it  by  a  very  broad  avenue,  nearly  two  miles  long,  called  Leith 
Walk.  The  whole  population  of  Edinburgh  and  Leith  was,  in 
1801,82,560. 

The  whole  adjacent  country  abounds  in  rich  scenery,  and  well 
cultivated  fields  and  gardens ;  and  from  its  peculiar  configuration, 
it  exhibits  a  greater  variety  of  fine  views  than  any  other  place  I  have 
ever  seen. 

Edinburgh  is  the  seat  of  the  supreme  court,  and  the  law  has  become 
a  fashionable  study  among  the  nobility  and  gentry  of  Scotland ;  the 
greater  part  of  whom  have  their  winter  residence  in  the  city.  This 
circumstance  not  only  affords  a  permanent  fund  for  the  support  of 
the  city,  but  forms  an  assemblage  of  beauty  and  fiishion  rarely  e- 
<iuallc(l ;  and  the  winter  assemblies  and  fashionable  parties  have  a 
brilliancy  and  splendour  not  to  be  found,  probably,  in  any  otiier 
part  of  the  world. 

1  he  seminaries  of  education^  and  other  literary  and  scientific  in* 
slitutions,  are  known  and  prized  all  over  the  world.  As  the  city 
<lraws  its  permanent  support  from  land,  it  has  not  its  dependence 

29 


1t2S 


K 


Tf  AYi:i4  IN 


on  foreigB  commerce)  like  the  niAnufacturing  and  commercial  citief. 
Though  the  mnnufaetures  are  considerable,  they  are  mostly  calcu- 
lated for  internal  trade. 

The  state  of  society  is,  generally  speaking,  excellent.  The  pco. 
pie  are  well  informed,  frank,  and  generous.  As  for  the  ladies,  thev 
are  elegant  to  a  proverb ;  those  who  have  ever  been  on  "  Leith 
Walk  in  the  gloaming,"  can  bear  witness  to  their  "  angelic  forms," 
their  ^*  rosy  complexions,"  and  their  "  witching  smiles,"  But  as 
I  might  be  accused  of  partiality  for  my  fair  countrywomen  were  I 
to  spesJc  my  mind  oti  this  sul^cct,  I  shall  take  my  leave  of  the  £■ 
dinburgh  ladies  by  addressing  the  younger  part  of  them  in  tlie 
words  of  Robert  Burns :  ,      . 

,  "  Cixl  make  ye  guid  as  well  as  braw, 

'"        ■'  And  send  ye  lads  in  plenty." 

1  left  the  capital  of  Scotland  at  4!  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and 
reached  Glasgow^  42  miles  distant,  a  quarter  before  10,  which  was 
pretty  quick  travelling.  I  have  frequently  heard  it  remarked  that 
the  Telegraph,  by  which  I  travelled,  is  under  better  regulation! 
than  any  public  coach  in  iScotland,  except  the  Mail.  In  the  fint 
10  or  12  miles  of  this  journey  the  country  is  pretty  rich ;  the  next 
H  miles  it  is  cold  and  bleak,  and  but  little  cultivated :  towards  Glas- 
gow the  soil  again  improves;  but,  generally  speaking,  the  lands  are 
much  inferior  to  what  they  are  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Edinburgh. 


,4^,hmrvt;^^,>.?iau     CHAPTER  XLVIII.        '  '' 
,,  ;^j..        Giasgffvo, — Stirling^ — Oei^, — Met/ivenj — Peith. 

IxAVlNG  completed  my  shipments,  I  had  now  little  else  to  do 
but  wait  the  return,  and  of  course  could  pay  some  attention  to  pub- 
lic matters.  The  plans  of  the  new  ministry  soon  began  to  develope 
themselves.  One  of  the  most  successful  engines  which  they  had 
used  to  oust  their  predecessors  was  to  charge  them  with  want  ofe- 
nergy ;  and  it  became  necessary  for  them  to  support  their  character 
by  adopting  energetic  measures.  Accordingly  a'great  big  expedi- 
tiou  was  prepared,  with  much  solemnity  and  parade ;  and  having 
looked  about  in  all  directions  for  an  object  to  wreak  the  vengeance 
of  the  nation  upon,  they  hit  upon  Denmark.     Denmark  was  ancu- 


BCOTLANO.  !lt7 

tral  and  friendly  power ;  but  that  was  of  no  importance, — they  could 
there  strike  a  blow  with  effect,  and  convince  the  world  of  the  tre- 
mendous power  of  Britain,  and  the  energy  of  her  ministers.  Thb 
blow  was  struck — and  a  terrible  blow  it  waa  lor  Denmark  j  but  it 
was  more  terrible  still  to  Britain, — it  laid  her  honour  law  iii  the 
dust,  and  pointed  her  out  as  the  enemy  of  the  civiliaed  worlds 

I  dreaded  that  the  next  blow  would  be  struck  at  America, — and 
80  it  was ;  but  in  a  different  form :  it  was  a  blow  at  neutral  trade. 
The  fuinous  orders  in  council  nindc  their  appearance  on  the  1 1th 
of  November,  1807,  and  at  one  fell  swoop  prostratetl  the  once  ilour- 
ishin^  trade  of  Britain  and  America  at  the  feet  of  Bonaparte. 

People  of  all  ranks  weic  astonished  at  these  proceedings  of  the 
cabinet.  Ft  was  some  time  indeed  before  the  natufo  of  the  orders 
in  council  was  understood,  such  was  the  remarkable  obscurity  of  the 
language  in  which  they  were  drawn  :  and  or^s  followed  upon  or- 
ders, for  a  month  or  six  weeks^  to  explain  them ;  but  their  effects 
were  soon  felt.  To  me  it  was  evident  that  the  American  people 
never  would  submit  to  them ;  and  I  thought  I  had  good  reasons  for 
forming  that  opinion.  I  had  recently  returned  from  America — I 
had  ardently  studied  the  genius  and  power  of  that  people— I  knew 
that  their  spirit  of  stern  independence  would  never  submit  to  be  dic- 
tated to  where  they  should  carry  their  own  goods  in  their  own  ves- 
sels-'I  calculated  that  they  had  power  to  do  without  British  trade, 
if  they  were  driven  to  it.  I  trembled  for  the  result ;  and  I  wept 
by  anticipation  at  the  ruin  of  a  business  that  I  had  organized  with 
such  labour,  and  in  which  all  my  capital  and  all  my  creiUt  were 
embarked.  But,  a  solitary  individual,  what  could.  I  do  ?  Those 
who  wielded  the  power  of  the  country  had  passed  the  law ;  and  it 
was  the  fiat  of  fate.  There  was  stJll  a  faint  glimmering  of  hope  lefl 
that  parliament  miglit,  in  its  wisdom,  repeal  the  orders  in  council ; 
and  judging  it  expedient  to  contribute^  my  mite  of  knowledge  to  an 
itlu^rious  and  independent  member  of  that  honourable  body,  I 
wrote  the  letter  in  the  Appendix,  No.  2.  In  drawing  up  this  letter  I 
considered  it  my  doty  to  give  a  short  sketch  of  the  view  which  ray 
observations  led  jne  to  take  of  the  American  character,  not  only  as 
an  act  of  gratitude  for  the  kind  hospitality  of  that  })eo|)lc;  but  be- 
cause it  was  the  fashion  of  the  day,  and  supported  by  one  of  the 
roost  popular  of  the  periodical  writers,  to  trinluce  and  vilify  th6 
country  by  every  lying  story  that  could  be  laid  hold  of. 

This  letter  was  drawn  up  about  tlie  20th  of  Jamiary,  but  it  was 


2S8 


TRAVELS   IN 


not  sent  off  betbru  the  27tli,  by  which  time  wc  had  the  news  of 
the  iirst  fruits  of  the  orders  in  council — the  American  embargo; 
and  this  brought  matters,  as  fur  us  I  wus  concerned,  to  issue,  i 
knew  from  my  letters  that  our  fiinds  would  be  blocked  up  in  (ieor- 
g^a ;  I  could  calculate  u|)on  no  time  for  a  return ;  so  I  nindc  the 
best  arrangement  that  I  could  devise,  under  existing  circumstuncc;, 
and  resolved  to  wait  with  us  much  patience  as  I  could  for  the  result. 

Having  completed  this  arrangement,  I  took  a  journey  to  see 
my  relations  in  the  easi,  country. 

On  the  12th  of  March,  1808,  I  lefl  Glasgow  by  the  stngc  for 
StirUng,  distant  27  miles.  The  first  13  miles  is  through  a  prcttv 
good  country  to  the  village  of  Cumbernauld,  principally  occupied 
by  muslin  weavers.  Two  miles  beyond  this  the  roud  passes  the 
Forth  and  Clyde  canal,  a  work  of  great  utility,  by  which  there  is 
a  sloop  navigation  fiom  one  side  of  the  island  to  the  other.  Four 
miles  from  thence  there  is  an  extensive  printfield,  after  whidi  the 
road  passes  through  a  dreary  moor,  till  witliin  two  or  three  miles 
of  Stirling,  when  the  Carse  commences,  one  of  the  most  fertile 
•pots  in  Scotland. 

Stirling  is  situated  on  the  Forth,  at  the  head  of  sloop  navigation, 
and  is  a  place  of  great  antiquity,  having  been  long  the  residence  of 
the  Scottish  kings,  and  is  distinguished  in  the  history  of  the  wars 
with  England.  It  is  situated  on  a  hill,  somewhat  like  Edinburgh, 
terminated  by  a  castle,  from  whence  there  is  one  of  the  most 
inagnificent  views  in  Scotland.  Stirling  contains  about  5200  people, 
who  carry  on  considerable  manufactures,  of  which  carpctting  is  the 
chiefl      •:(-.;  ■':,.,.      •^.   ........  ,         ,   .  ..     .  •,  . 

From  Stirling  to  Dumblane  is  six  miles,  and  the  road  winds 
through  a  country  as  romantic  as  can  well  be  imagined.  It  is  the 
opening  of  the  Ochill  Hills,  in  which  is  the  confluence  of  three 
considerable  rivers,  the  Forth,  the  Teith,  and  the  Allan. 

Dumblane  is  situated  on  the  latter,  and  is  a  small  place,  abound- 
ing in  little  dirty  houses,  but  ornamented  with  the  remains  of  an 
old  cathedral.  From  hence  the  road  continues  along  the  north 
side  of  the  Sheriff  Moor,  well  known  in  Scottish  histoiy,  11  miles, 
when  it  winds  to  the  northward,  and  proceeds  through  the  Moor 
of  Orchill,  a  very  elevated  country,  from  the  summit  ol  which 
there  is  an  extensive  view,  whence  I  could  descry  the  seat  of  rny 
nativity,  20  miles  distant. 

Passing  Muthil,  a  small  village,  the  country  improves  for  two 


«COTlAND. 


2^ 


milei  to  the  bank«  of  the  river  Erin,  which  we  crossed  by  n  roo<1 
stone  bridge,  ond  thence  nscended  q  pretty  steep  acclivity  of 
}miri  n  mile,  where,  loftily  situated  on  the  brow  of  a  hill,  is  the 
villu^c  of  Crieff. 

This  is  but  a  sninll  place,  but  it  was  interesting  to  me  as  being 
the  country  of  my  ancestors.  I  spent  some  little  time  among  my 
relations,  and  then  set  forward  for  Mcthven,  distant  1 1  miles.  The 
country  between  Crieff  and  Methven  is  tolerably  g(MHl,  and  a  turn- 
pike rond  has  lately  been  made,  which  renders  travelling  very  plca- 
^ant  and  expeditious. 

Having  spent  a  few  days  at  this  place,  1  shall  avail  myself  of  the 
opportunity  to  introduce  an  account  of  my  native  parish,  which 
will  itervc  to  illustrate  the  parish  establishment  of  Scotland  gene- 
rally. 

The  village  of  Mcthven  is  situated  six  miles  to  the  westward  of 
Pertii :  the  parish  is  boundetl  by  Fowlis  on  the  west  and  north ;  by 
Moneiily  and  Redgorton  on  the  east ;  and  Ti)ipermoor  on  the 
south.  Its  extreme  length  is  about  seven  miles,  and  breadth  three* 
Its  area  is  about  19  square  miles,  and  its  contents  in  acres  12,000. 

The  surface  is  undulating,  some  part  of  it  hilly,  but  not  moun- 
tainous ;  it  is  well  supplied  with  rivulets  and  springs ;  and  the  river 
Almond,  a  romantic  stream,  abounding  in  falls  and  mill -scats,  runs 
along  its  whole  northern  boundary,  a  distance  of  six  or  seven  miles. 

The  soil  is  very  unequal.  About  five  square  miles  consist  of 
nioor,  which  is  unfit  for  cultivation,  but  affords  turf  and  heath  for 
fuel,  and  some  little  grazing.  Two  miles  consist  of  moss,  Which  is 
altogether  unfit  for  any  agricultural  purpose,  but  affords  excellent 
fuel,  called  there  jam/*.*  Two  miles  are  in  wood,  called  the  wood 
of  Methven.  One  mile  is  occupied  with  the  policies  of  Meth- 
ven castle,  and  about  as  much  with  those  of  Balgowan.  Of 
the  eight  remaining  miles,  one  third  may  be  reckoned  rather  poor, 
but  the  remainder  is  good  fertile  land. 

Tlie  whole  parish  is  owned  by  two  proprietors,  thence  called 
heritors.  Colonel  Smith,  of  Methvenj  has  the  largest  portion, 
probably  not  less  than  three  fourths,  and  the  remainder  belongs  to 
tlie  celebrated  general  Graham,  of  Balgowan.  There  was  until 
iiUeiy  another  propietor,  who  owned  an  estate  called  Tippermal- 
locli,  consisting  of  about  700  acres  of  excellent  land ;  but  not  being 
entailed,  it  was  sold,  on  bis  demise,  by  his  heirs,  to  Smith  of 
Methven,  for  jfil  7000.  . 


230  TRAVELS  IN 

The  present  population  is  1280  maks,  and  1375  females,  in  ail 
S65d,  being  nearly  140  to  the  square  mile;  which  is  a  gre<nt  pqxi. 
latioo,  when  we  consider  the  small  quantity  of  good  land  in  tiie 
parish.  The  total  number  of  families  is  577 ;  of  these,  1 37  are  em- 
ployed  in  agriculture;  the  remainder  in  trades  and  manuihcturci, 
The  number  of  inhabited  houses  is  44<7,  of  which  149  are  in  the 
village  of  Methven.  The  number  of  families  in  the  village  is 
24i3  i  25  of  whom  are  employed  in  agriculture,  the  rest  in  manu- 
factures, trades.  Sac  The  total  number  of  inhabitants  in  the 
village  is  950;  of  whom  100  are  weavers,  18  shoemakers,  1] 
masons,  9  taylors,  10  Wrights  (carpenters,)  4  stocking-makers,  2 
clock-makers,  2  butchers,  and  7  store-keepers. 

The  whole  land  in  the  parish  being  entailed,  the  farmers  occupy 
their  farms  on  rent  from  the  proprietors ;  and  land  lets  at  present 
from  j£l  10s.  to  £S  5s.  sterling,  annually,  per  Scots  acre,  which 
is  about  one  fifth  more  than  an  English  acre.  The  farms  arc  gcD^ 
rally  let  on  leases  of  19  years.  f.    i 

The  legal  provision  for  the  minibter  of  the  parish  consists  of  a 
house,  called  the  manse  ,-  about  30  acres  of  land,  called  the  ^/^if, 
and  the  remainder  is  paid  by  the  heritors,  who  generally  indenuii* 
fy  themselves  by  assessing  it  on  the  farmers  to  whom  they  let  the 
land.  The  whole  of  the  minister's  income  in  this  parish,  is  aboot 
j£.SOO*  The  average  in  Scotland,  generally,  may  be  reckoned 
Ikbout  i£.200.  Li  every  parisli  there  is  what  is  called  u  patm, 
who  has  the  gill  of  presentation ;  that  is,  when  a  vacancy  takes 
place,  be  provides  a  candidate  of  his  choice,  and  presents  him  tt 
the  people^  If  they  vote  for  him,  he  is  theuceibrth  minister  ol 
jthe  parish ;  if  they  are  dissatisfied,  he  is  settled  as  minister  of  the 
parish,  'whether  they  mil  or  not.  In  consequence  of  this  law,  a 
great  schism  took  place  in  the  church,  and  in  almost  every  popu* 
lous  parish  there  is  a  secede-  meeting.  In  this  parish  nearly  two 
thirds  of  the  people  are  seceders. 

l^e  schoolmaster  is  appointe<l  by  the  heritors,  and  the  legal 
provisipn  in  this  parish  is  a  hous^e,  school- house,  and  a  gardeo, 
A  small  income  arises  from  the  office  of  session  clerk ;  and  I  be- 
lieve there  are  some  little  perquisites  besides.  The  remainder  of  | 
the  incoaie  arises  from  the  quarterly  payments  of  such  ns  go  to 
school.  It  is  now  one  shilling  ami  six-pence  per  quarter,  but  in 
pay  young  days  it  was  only  one  shilling.  The  seceders  have  soln^ 
times  a  schoolmaster,  and  sometimes  not.    The  office  is  geueroUy 


aCOTLAMO. 


fSl 


'emales,  in  ai 

a  great  popu* 

d  land  in  tiie 

e,  137  are  Ml. 

manutactures. 

149  are  in  the 

the  village  k 

;  rest  in  manu- 

ibitants  in  the 

ihoemakers,  11 

dng-niakers,  2 

Brmers  occupy 

lets  at  present 

lotsacrc,  which 

farms  arc  gcD^ 

$h  consists  of  a 

laWed  the  gkk; 

lerally  indemni- 
m  they  let  the 
arish,  is  about 

[y   be  reckoned 

;alled  a  patron, 

vacancy  takes 

pesents  him  to 

th  minister  ol 

Iminibter  of  the 

of  this  law, » 

(Sit  every  popu- 

bh  nearly  two 


and  the 
I  and  a  gardeD. 
rk;   and  Ibe- 
remainder  of  | 
|giich  aRgo  to 

luarter,  but  in 
lers  have  so^l^ 
ice  is  geuerally 


£lled  by  one  of  their  young  men,  who  is  a  candidate  for  the  min- 
istry ;  but,  from  the  necessary  time  that  he  must  devote  to  oth«r 
studich,  it  cannot  be  supposed  that  the  establishment  will  be 
equal  to  the  other,  where  there  is  a  fccltlod  teacher ;  though  it  an- 
swers the  purpose  oihiducing  the  settled  teacher  to  pay  more  clo«» 
attention  to  his  duty.  '     «r».. 

1  cannot  better  explain  the  order  of  the  school  and  chmrch,  and 
their  connexion  one  with  another,  than  by  giving  a  short  sketch 
of  die  plan  followed  in  my  early  life,  which  will  also  explain  the 
moral  economy  of  the  parish. 

When  I  was  five  years  of  age,  we  lived  a  little  more  than  half  a 
luile  iVom  the  village ;  and  I  was  sent  to  school  along  with  an' 
I  elder  brother.    The  first  book  used  in  the  school  was  the  Shorter 
Catechism,  which  cost  one  halfpenny.     The  next  in  order  was  tlie 
Proverbs,  price  one  penny ;    the  third  was  the  New  Textamentr 
price  seven -pence  or  eight-ponce.      I  went  through  the  first  two 
books,  of  course,  and  at  seven  years  of  age  was  in  the  New  Testa- 
ment,  at  which  time  we    removed   to  the  village,      llie  nexfr 
i  gradation  was  the  bible,  accompanied  by  writing,  and  from  thence- 
I  to  Latin  and  arithmetic ;.  the  writing  being  continued.    The  hour* 
I  of  attendance  in    t\\e  morning  was  9  o'clock  in  summer,    and 
10  o'clock  in  winter;    and  the  school   was  opened  by  a  short 
prayer.    We  had  an  interval  from  1  to  2,  and  were  dismissed  at  6 
I  o'clock  in  the  summer,  and  in  winter  a  little  before  dark ;  when 
we  bad  again  a  short  prayer.     The  Saturdays  were  devoted  to  re- 
peat questions  in  the  catechism ;  and  on  Sunday,  besides  attend- 
ance at  church,  which  was  strictly  enjoined,  we  had  to  get  a  psalm 
by  heart,  whicli.  wc  repeated  in  the  school  on  Monday  morning.- 
Tliose  farther  advanced  in  education,  got  by  heart  the  proofs  to 
the  Shorter  Catechism;  and  sometimes  we  were  appointed  to  re- 
peat them  in  church,  after  the  morning  service. 

The  people  assembled  to  church  at  10  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
Iwhen  the  exercise  began  by  singing  from  8  to  12  lines  of  the  Scots 
Ipsalms.  The  schoolmaster  wa-i  precentor,  and  all  the  people 
Ijoiaed,  often  forming  a  most  melcKJiuus  concert.  Aticr  sinjj[ing, 
lliie  minister  prayed,  and  then  read  a  portion  of  the  scriptures,  on< 
[which  he  gave  a  lecture,  which  generally  lasted  about  40  minutes.^ 
jWhcn  it  was  finished,  he  gave  out  another  psalm  to  be  sung,  and 
jlliia  was  called  the  mid- psalm.     The  minister  then  prayed,  gave  a> 


^3 


TRAVBLS   IN 


•ermon,  and  a  prayer  after  it.    He  then  gave  out  another 
and,  with  a  benediction,  dismissed  the  congregation. 

If  there  were  any  children  to  be  baptised,  they  were  presented 
immediately  after  singing  the  last  psalm ;  and  this  was  performed 
with  great  solemnity,  in  the  face  of  the  whole  congregation.  The 
parent  was  admonished  to  train  up  the  child  in  the  nurture  and 
admonition  of  the  Lord — to  be  exemplary  in  his  iamily,  and  togm 
tlie  child  an  education  according  to  his  circumstances ;  which  hav. 
ing  assented  to,  the  child  was  admitted  a  member  of  the  church 
by  baptism,  performed  by  sprinkling  water  on  the  face.  In  sum. 
mer  there  was  an  interval  of  about  an  hour,  when  the  congrega- 
tion again  met,  and  the  afternoon  exercise  was  conducted  in  the 
same  way,  with  the  omission  of  the  lecture  and  mid-psalm. 

The  worship  in  the  seceder  church  was  performed  exactly  in 
the  same  way,  but  was  longer  continued ;  and  they  had  an  inter- 
val both  in  summer  and  winter. 

.  The  religious  tenets  of  the  parish  were  calvinistic,  in  which  the 
established  church  was  pretty  liberal ;  but  the  seceders  were  very 
rigid  and  austere.  No  part  of  the  discipline,  however,  had  any 
tendency  to  clash  with  the  established  habits  of  the  people,  except 
that  which  prohibited  promiscuous  dancing ;  that  is,  men  and 
women  dancing  together.  We  had — for  my  mother  was  a  seceder, 
and  1  was  one  of  course — we  had  frequent  addresses  from  the  pul- 
pit on  the  profanity  of  this  exercise,  and  the  old  douce  elders  and 
"  unco  guid"  of  the  congregation  were  everlastingly  admonishing 
the  young  and  gay  against  the  "  awful  judgment>like  sin  of  dis- 
regarding the  covenants,  and  standards  of  the  church ;"  but  so 
tliey  might.  The  young  and  the  gay  would  hear  them,  and  som^  I 
times  look  (/(7t/ce  on  the  occasion  too;  but  let  a  fiddle  and  bass 
strike  up  to  the  tune  of  '<  The  Highlandman  kissed  his  niither," 
or  the  "  Cameronion  rant,"  the  heart-inspiring  strain  would  im- 
mediately vibrate  through  every  avenue  of  the  body;  the  young  I 
peasants,  and  often  the  old  ones,  would  immediately  start  up  and  [ 
dance ;  nor  would  they  have  desisteil  (I  speak  of  my  young  days,* 
I  very  believe,  although  Mess  John  had  been  in  the  room,  ready 
to  deliver  them  over  to  Satan,  and  his  sooty  darkness  at  his  elbow, 
ready  to  execute  the  mandate.  'i  .t*     ..  ',. 

;  For  my  own  part,  I  was  passionately  fond  of  Scottish  music  I 
and  dancing,  from  the  earliest  period  of  my  remembrance ;  and 
w«  had  most  delectable  music  in  the  parish.    There  was  a  niiii  { 


SCOTLAND. 


^S3 


of  the  name  of  John  Bowie,  who  played  delightfully  on  the 
fiddle;  and  his  brother  Peter  was  equally  celebrated  on  the 
bass.  They  performed  at  all  the  weddings  round,  and  a  wed- 
ding could  not  be  held  without  music  and  dancing.  To  these 
it  was  the  fashion  for  the  young  boys,  for  many  miles  round, 
to  go;  and  I  never  failed  to  embrace  every  opportunity  that  pre- 
•ented  itself.  Often,  on  a  stormy  winter  night,  have  I  walked 
three  or  four  miles,  plashing  away  through  "  dub  and  mire  ;*' 
but  the  moment  that  the  sound  of  the  fiddle  reached  my  ears,  it 
would  set  my  heart  a  capering  so,  that  I  could  •  hardly  withstand 
the  temptation  to  dance  in  the  open  fields,  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
distant  from  the  scene  of  action. 

I  cannot  devote  more  room  to  delineate  the  peculiar  manners 
of  the  Scottish  peasants.  I  shall  therefore  only  observe  here,  that 
those  in  our  parish  were,  generally  speaking,  sober,  discreet,  and 
Tirtuous ;  and  referring  to  the  Appendix,  No.  3,  for  further  par- 
ticulars, I  shall  close  this  article  by  an  extract  from  the  celebrated 


'..tt? 


sh  bard,  Robert  Bums. 

O  Scotia !  my  dear,  my  native  soil ! 

For  whom  my  warmest  wish  to  heaven  in  sent  f 
Long  may  ihy  hardy  sons  of  rustic  toil 

Be  blest  with  health,  and  peace,  and  sweet  content ! 
And,  O  !  may  Heaven  their  simp*e  lives  prevent 

From  luxury's  oonta^on,  weak    -id  vile ! 
That,  howe'er  crowns  and  coronets  be  rent 

'  a 

A  virtuous  populace  may  rise  the  while,  --t,..   ,_   . 

And  stand,  a  wall  of  fire,  t^round  their  much-loved  Lsle. 

From  Methven  I  went  to  Perth,  where  I  had  served  my  ap- 
prenticeship to  business,  and  spent  a  number  of  my  early  years. 
The  country  is  well  cultivated,  and  abounds  with  fine  scenery. 
The  eastern  part  of  the  river  Almond  abounds  with  printfields  and 
bleachfields,  and  a  large  canal  is  carried  from  it,  about  three 
miles,  to  supply  the  town  with  water,  on  which  there  are  very  im- 
portant works  erected.  .  ...   <      .,  ttir 

Perth  is  situated  on  the  river  Tay,  at  the  head  of  tide  wa- 
ter, and  is  one  of  the  handsomest  towns  in  Scotland.  The  scen- 
ery around  it  is  very  rich,  and  the  public  prope  ty,  consisting  of 
two  fine  fields,  called  the  North  and  South  Inches,  are  not  only 
ornamental,  but  highly  useful  to  the  town ;  affording  fine  walks, 
and  bleaching  and  grazing  grounds.    To  the  east  is  the  hill  of  Kin- 

30 


234 


TRAVELS   IN 


noul)  about  800  feet  high,  and  on  the  oi^osite  side  of  the  Tay,  'u 
the  hill  of  Moncrieif,  from  whence  there  are  some  of  the  richest 
views  in  Scotland.  There  is  an  elegant  stone  bridge  across  the 
Tay  at  Perth,  which  adds  much  to  the  convenience  and  beauty 
of  the  town. 

Perth  contains  about  1£,000  people,  who  are  principally  em- 
ployed in  trades  and  manufactures,  which  are  carried  on  with 
great  spirit ;  particularly  in  linen  and  cotton.  There  are  valuable 
fishings  upon  the  Tay,  which  keep  a  number  of  vessels  employed 
in  the  London  trade ;  and  ship-building  is  carried  on  to  a  con- 
siderable extent.  j.  ,,, 

The  system  of  education  is  upon  an  excellent  footing,  particu- 
larly the  academy,  at  which  is  taught  a  college  education  in  minia- 
ture ;  and  it  has  furnished  more  good  mathematical  scholars,  cal- 
culated  for  tlie  ordinary  occupations  of  life,  than  any  other  semi- 
nary  that  has  ever  come  under  my  observation. 

Having  spent  a  few  days  in  this  place,  I  set  out  by  the  coach 
for  Methven,  and,  bidding  adieu  to  my  relations,  I  continued  my 
journey  to  Glasgow, 


Edinburgh, 


CHAPTER  XLIX, 

'Dundee, — Falkland, 

I  MENTIONED  in  the  last  chapter,  that  I  had  made  the  best 
arrangement  I  could  under  existing  circumstances;  but  to  carry 
it  into  ftill  effect,  was  attended  with  a  good  deal  of  difficulty^  and 
I  was  obliged  in  consequence,  to  take  a  journey  to  the  east  coun- 
try. I  accordingly  left  Glasgow  on  the  Sth  of  July,  and  travel- 
led by  the  coach  to  Edinburgh.  Next  morning,  I  cros.se(l  the 
Forth  at  Lcith.  The  Forth  is  here  seven  miles  broad,  encreasiiig 
in  breadth  to  the  eastward,  and  contracting  to  the  westward;  ami 
there  are  several  islands  in  it,  but  of  no  great  extent.  The  whole 
presents  a  very  i>icturesque  view.  The  packets  generally  make  a 
passage  in  from  10  minutes  to  un  hour;  and  they  are  under  such 
good  regulations,  and  so  cautiously  conducted,  that  from  time 
immemorial  none  of  them  have  been  lost.  > 

Kinghorn,  on  the  north   side  of  the  Forth,    *i  a  small  towu, 
built  on  high  ground,  sloping  towards  the  Forth,  of  whidi,  and 


re  across  the 


SCOTLAND.  235 

of  Edinburgh,  and  Leith,  on  the  opposite  side,  it  has  a  fine  view. 
Four  miles  to  the  eastward  is  Kirkaldy,  a  long  straggling  town, 
built  mostly  on  one  street,  close  along  the  shore;  and  here  there 
are  considerable  manufactures  of  hemp,  flax,  and  cotton;  par- 
ticularly of  checks  and  ticks.  '  i        ,     '.  . 

A  mile  beyond  this,  on  the  height,  is  Pathhead,  where  a  great 
deal  of  weaving  is  done,  principally  for  the  Kirkaldy  manufac- 
turers. A  mile  to  the  east  is  Dysart,  a  little  town  remarkable  for 
its  coal-works ;  and  the  whole  coast  to  the  eastward  is  studded 
with  towns,  containing  from  200  to  400  people. 

From  Pathhead,  I  travelled  1 6  miles  to  Cupar,  through  a  va- 
riegated country,  abounding  in  hill  and  djde,  woods  and  small 
rivulets.  The  soil  is  pretty  good,  and  the  s^'stem  of  agriculture 
is  in  a  very  advanced  state. 

Cupar  is  the  county  town,  and  is  a  populous  and  thriving  place, 
having  considerable  manufactures  ;  particularly  of  linen  goods, 
such  as  Silesias  and  Osnaburgs.  The  country  in  its  ncighbour- 
ho'xl  is  remarkably  well  cultivated,  and  the  farmers  have  every 
appearance  of  wealth,  and  its  usual  concomitant — independence. 

From  Cupar,  I  travelled  1 1  miles  to  Dundee,  and,  being  bn 
horseback,  I  took  the  nearest  road,  which  led  me  over  a  hilly 
track  of  country ;  but  the  soil  was  fertile,  and  it  was  every  where 
covered  with  fine  fields  of  grain,  particularly  wheat. 

While  I  was   enjoying  this    scenery,    and  contemplating  the 
bounty  of  Providence,  I  was  joined  by  a  very  communicative,  gar- 
rulous friend,  who  told  me  he  was  a  plasterer  in  Dundee.     He 
began  a  long  talk  about  America,  part  of  which  I  knew  before, 
and  part  of  which  was  never  known  by  mortal  man.     But  it  was 
all  gospel  in  my  friend's  eyes.     He  had  it  from  the  best  authority : 
he  could  not  be  mistaken. — Among  other  tales,    he  mentioned 
that  a  gentleman,  of  the  name  of  Millar,  had  left  a  good  trade  in 
Dundee  to  go  to  America,    and  had  settled  in  the  back  woods  a- 
niong  the  savages ;  and  yet  he  had  come  back  to  try  to  get  his  wife 
to  go  out  also ;  alleging  that  it  was  a  better  country  than  this  I 
"  But,"  added  he,  "  I'm  very  well  pleased  where  I  am,  and  in- 
tend to  remain  ^n  Dundee." 

On  drawing  towards  the  place  of  destination,  the  road  descends 
by  a  winding  course  of  considerable  extent,  from  whence  there  is 
a  beautiful  view  of  the  Firth  of  Tay,  which  we  crossed  by  a  ferry 


i 


936  TIAVULS   IN 

iTofttly  Uire«  miles  broad,  and  immediately  entered  the  town  of 
Dundee,  where  I  stopped  ibr  the  night. 

Dundee  is  a  large  town,  containing  upwards  of  26,000  inhabi' 
tants,  who  have  extensive  and  well-organized  manufactures  of 
hemp,  flax,  and  cotton;  particularly  cotton-bagging,  sail-clotli, 
O^naburgs,  and  coloured  threads.  It  is  one  of  the  principal  ship. 
ping  ports  in  the  east  of  Scotland,  and  carries  on  a  considerable 
trade  to  the  Baltic,  from  which  the  principal  raw  materials  fot 
the  manufactures  are  drawn.      ,, ,:   .:.,..  ..-^   ;.. 

I  soon  finished  my  business  here,  and  returned  to  Cupar.  From 
thence  I  travelled  to  Auchtermouchty,  about  nine  miles  to  the 
westward,  through  a  tolerably  fertile  country.  Here  also  there  are 
considerable  linen  manufactures.  My  business  was  soon  finished 
at  this  place,  and  I  immediately  set  out  for  Edinburgh.  The 
only  place  of  note  that  I  passed  was  Falkland,  once  the  residence 
of  the  kings  of  Scotland.  The  remains  of  the  palace  are  still 
to  be  seen,  but  it  is  a  miserable  pile  of  building,  having  a  room 
or  two  occupied  as  a  carpenter's  shop ;  notwithstanding,  it  has  (i 
hereditary  keeper,  with  a  considerable  salary  i 

One  of  the  beautiful  Lomond  hills  rises  immediately  to  the 
south  of  Falkland,  and  reaches  an  elevation  of  about  1200  feet. 
Seven  or  eight  miles  to  the  westward  is  the  other,  and  there  is 
a  continued  ridge  between  them,  which  affords  pasture  for  a  great 
many  sheep. 

The  whole  c^  tlie  county  of  Fife  abounds  with  coal,  iron,  and 
other  minerals. 

I  reached  Edinburgh  in  the  evening  and  next  day  returned  to 
Glasgow. 


CHAPTER  L. 

Glasgaociy-^Edinhurgh, — Mr,  Fox's  birth-day. 

JL  HE  orders  in  council  still  continued  their  baleful  operation,  and 
and  I  was  kept  in  a  state  of  inactivity  most  uncongenial  to  my  es- 
tablished habits ;  but  there  was  no  help  :  "  the  king  willed  it,"  and 
I  was  obliged  to  submit. 

Under  this  disagreeable  feeling,  I  was  glad  to  avail  myself  of  any 
active  and  rational  amusement ;  and  two  much-valued  friends,  one 


SCOTLAND.  ^7 

of  tbem  a  merchant  of  Liverpool,  having  invited  mc  to  take  a  jaunt 
to  Edinburgh,  I  accepted  it  with  pleasure ;  the  more  so  as  I  heard 
that  the  birth-day  of  Mr.  Fox  was  to  be  celebrated  in  a  lew  days. 

We  left  Glasgow  on  the  20th  of  January,  1809.  Mr.  Fox's  birth- 
day was  celebrated  by  the  whig  party  in  Edinburgh,  on  the  24tli. 
Being  acquainted  with  several  members  of  that  illustrious  body,  I 
applied  for  tickets  for  my  Liverpool  friend  and  myself;  and  we  join- 
ed the  party  accordingly.  A  friend,  who  had  assisted  in  arranging 
the  music,  and  whose  plnro  was  to  be  opposite  the  band,  that  he 
niight  give  the  necessary  instructions,  obligingly  accommodated  us 
with  seats  beside  himself;  so  that  we  were  placed  in  a  favourable 
situation  for  observation. 

The  company,  nearly  200  in  number,  assembled  at  6  o'clock. 
Mr.  Maul,  of  Panmure,  took  the  chair;  Sir  Harry  MoncrieffwaS 
chaplain.  The  company  generally,  in  point  of  respectability  of  cha- 
racter, liberality  of  sentiment,  and  brilliancy  of  intellect,  ranked 
high  among  the  living  characters  of  the  present  day.  What  a  bless- 
ing it  would  be  for  mankind,  thought  I,  if  the  councils  of  statei 
could  be  animated  by  the  spirit,  and  actuated  by  the  conduct  of 
such  men  !  But  Providence  has,  (no  doubt  for  wise  reasons,  though 
inscrutable  to  us)  ordered  it  otherwise ;  and  we  must  submit,  and 
hope  for  better  days. 

The  first  toast,  "  The  glorious  and  immortal  memory  of  Charles 
James  Fox,"  was  drank  in  silence,  and  standing.  This  was  follow- 
ed by  a  dirge  from  the  band  of  vocal  music ;  after  which  we  had  the 
song  of  "  Scots  wha  hae  wi'  Wallace  bled,"  followed  by  the  air  to 
which  Burns  originally  composed  it,  by  the  inimitable  band  of  Na- 
thaniel Gow ;  and  so  mournfully  pathetic  did  they  play  it,  that  it 
brought  a  plentiful  shower  of  tears  fi-om  the  eyes  of  many  of  the 
cop^nany. 

cry  toast  was  followed  by  music,  and  never  did  I  hear  tnuac 
more  elegant  or  better  arranged.  Nathaniel  Gow,  a  son  of  the  ce- 
lebrated Niel  Gow,  led  the  band,  and,  to  use  the  language  of  my 
Liverpool  friend,  he  "  handled  his  elbow  in  great  style;**  and  was 
well  supported  by  the  other  performers. 

The  notice  of  a  few  of  the  leading  sentiments,  with  the  music  that 
followed,  will  serve  to  illustrate  the  spirit  of  the  company. 

Toast — The  whig  party  of  Scotland. 

Music — Whigs  of  Fife.  . 

Toast— Whigs  of  Englahd. 


238 


TRAVELS   IN 


;^i*« 


•1.; 


Mitsic — O  the  rouit  beef  of  Old  England !  -''  *  - 

Toast — Whigs  of  Ireland. 

Music — Erin  go  bragh. 

Toast — A  speedy  adjustment  of  our  differences  witli  America, 
And  justice  to  foreign  powers. 

Music — Yankee  Doodle. 

The  whole  conduet  of  the  enlightened  gentlemen  composing  this 
meeting  showed  that  they  were  actuated  by  the  truly  enlightened  prin- 
ciples of  the  revered  character  whose  birth  they  met  to  celebrate; 
and  the  last  sentiment,  and  music  that  accompanied  it,  is  a  convinc- 
ing  proof  that  they  entertained  liberal  sentiments  regarding  Ame- 
rica. Had  the  councils  of  Mr.  Fox  prevailed  in  the  British  cabi- 
net, two  nations  "  formed  to  be  mutually  beneficial  to  each  other," 
instead  of  being,  plunged  into  a  calamitous  war,  might  have  reaped 
the  mutual  advantages  of  cultivating  the  arts  of  peace ! 

Before  leaving  Edinburgh,  w  heard  the  melancholy  account  of 
the  battle  of  Corunna,  and  the  icrifice  of  one  of  the  most  gallant  of 
Britannia's  sons,  Sir  John  Mov  e.  And  for  what? — To  support  the 
independence  of  %)ain  and  Portugal !  say  the  British  ministry  and 
their  adherents.  Of  the  correctness  of  thesentimentletposterity  judge. 

The  weather  was  dreadfully  cold  during  our  stay  at  Ediiiburgh, 
tlie  thermometer  being  one  day  as  low  as  2**.  On  our  way  to  Glas- 
gow, the  snow  was  so  deep,  that  during  a  considerable  part  of  the 
journey  we  had  six  horses  in  the  carriage. 


-  CHAPTER  LI. 

Journey  to  Ireland, — Port   Patrick, — Belfast, — Dundrum  Bay,— 

Nessorij. 

A  PERIOD  ~was  at  last  put  to  my  state  of  inactivity.  On  the 
17th  of  July,  as  I  walked  along  the  street,  the  carrier  put  a  packet 
oi  letters  into  my  hands,  which  bore  the  post-mark  of  CastlewcUan, 
in  Ireland.  On  opening  it,  I  found  it  contained  an  invoice  and  bill 
of  lading  of  a  cargo  of  cotton,  shipped  by  the  Lucy  from  Savannah; 
but  the  vessel  was  bound  to  LiverpooK  and  there  was  nothing  to  ex* 
plain  why  my  letters  should  have  been  put  ashore  at  Castlewel- 
lan.  I  dreaded  a  shipwreck,  and  made  immediate  preparations  to 
go  to  Ireland. 

I  left  Glasgow  by  the  mail  stage  on  the  19th,  and  travelling 


SCOTLAND.  S39 

through  a  tolerably  fertile  country  about  7  miles,  passed  through  a 
chain  of  barren  hills,  of  no  great  height,  about  7  miles  more.  Eight 
miles  beyond  this  is  Kilmarnock,  and  towards  it  the  couiitry  is  a 
little  improved.  ■  .  r       .      i  , 

Kilmarnock  is  a  straggling  village,  but  celebrated  for  its  manu- 
factures of  carpets,  and  as  being  the  scene  of  several  subjects  in  the 
works  of  the  Ayrshire  poet,  who,  in  one  of  his  poems,  honours  it 
with  the  following  notice : 


Kilmarnock  wabstera,  fidgc  an'  claw, 

An*  pour  jrour  creeshie  nations ; 
An'  ye  wha  leather  rax  an'  draw. 

Of  a'  denominations ; 
Swith  to  the  laigh  kirk  one  an'  a'. 

An'  there  tak  up  your  stations 
Then  aff  to  Bigbie's  in  a  raw, 

And  pour  divine  libations  ■■,-■■  '    < 

.  •.  «  For  joy  this  day. 

We  stopped  at  the  said  Bigbie's,  and,  for  the  humour  of  the 
thing,  I  called  for  a  libation  of  porter;  but  there  w^os  no jlt^  in 
the  drinking  of  it — it  was  sour,  stale,  and  spiritless. 

From  Kilmarnock  to  Ayr  is  12  miles :  the  road  is  very  good,  but 
the  country  is  poor,  although  it  certainly  bears  an  excellent  crop  of 
"  bonny  lasses :"  the  women  of  Ayrshire  are  beautiful. 

On  entering  the  town  of  Ayr,  every  thing  that  I  saw  reminded 
me  of  my  favourite  bard.  The  "  Dungeon  Clock'*  and  "  Wal- 
lace Tower,"  the  "  twa  steeples,"  could  ba  seen  at  a  distance,  and 
1  passed  by  the  "  New  Brig,"  where  a  little  way  up  the  stream  I 
saw  the  "  Auld  Brig;"  and  the  whole  scenery  brought  the  extraor- 
dinary dialogue  between  the  "  Brigs  of  Ayr"  fresh  to  my  recollec- 
tion. "      ' 

Ayr  has  no  manufactures  for  America,  and  I  had  not  a  moment 
to  view  the  town ;  so,  procuring  a  chaise,  I  posted  all  night  to- 
wards Port  Patrick.  The  night  was  dark,  damp,  and  dismal;  but 
I  my  haste  would  brook  no  delay.  I  hurried  on  :  at  midnight  I  was 
atGirvan,  at  daylight  at  Ballantrae,  and,  at  8  o'clock,  I  break- 
fasted on  the  east  side  of  Loch  Ryan.  From  thence  the  road  passes 
through  a  poor  moory  country  to  Port  Patrick,  which  I  reached  at 
I  one  o'clock. 

Here  I  was  informed  that  the  packet  had  not  sailed  for  five  days, 
such  had  been  the  violence  of  the  weather ;  and  that    a  number  of 
passengers  were  in  waiting,  one  of  them  a  gentleman  of  my  ae- 


SIO 


TRAVELS   IK 


qiuiintancc  from  Glasgow,  bound  to  Ireland  on  an  errand  of  tlic 
ffaine  nature  as  my  own.  It  whs  Sunday,  and  the  gentlemen  were 
at  church ;  but  I  was  told  they  would  soon  return,  when  they 
would  take  dinner,  and  the  packet  would  sail  immediately  after. 
I  was  rejoiced  at  this  intelligence,  and  ran  up  stairs  to  shave  and 
clean  myself;  but  the  despatch  was  greater  than  1  had  been  led  to 
imagine,  for  I  had  only  got  my  beard  half  off  when  I  was  informed 
that  I  must  immediately  go  on  board  the  packet,  or  lose  my  \m 
■age ;  I  therefore  buckled  up  my  trunipety,  and,  in  the  style  that 
the  Israelite  messengers  were  once  presented  to  their  king,  hall' 
shaved  and  half  not,  I  presented  myself  on  board  the  packet>boat, 
and  she  immediately  got  under  way. 

Port  Patrick  is  one  of  the  most  singular  ports  I  ever  saw. 
The  town  consists  of  a  few  houses  only,  and  the  harbour  is  a  small 
inlet  among  a  large  mass  of  rugged  rocks.  The  whole  coast  is  lof- 
ty, and  lined  with  rocks ;  and  this  harbour,  small  as  it  is,  is  the  only 
place  where  a  boat  could  Innd  for  many  miles ;  on  which  account  it 
is  one  of  the  great  thoroughtares  to  Ireland,  where  the  mail  pack- 
ets  daily  cros8.  The  mode  by  \%hich  they  warp  the  boats  out  and  in, 
is  very  ingenious  and  singular* 

■  The  wind  was  almost  right  ahead,  and  the  swell  considcrftble, 
but  we  got  warped  out,  aud  put  to  sea.  For  the  first  few  hours 
the  weather  was  pretty  moderate,  and  we  got  about  half-way  across, 
when  the  wind  increased  to  a  very  severe  gale,  which  continued  all 
night  and  great  part  of  next  day.  The  passengers  in  the  cabin 
were  mostly  all  sick,  and  in  all  m}^  passages  across  the  Atlantic  I 
nevor  suffered  so  much.  But  in  the  steerage  it  was  more  serious, 
The  captain  was  obliged  to  shut  the  hatches;  and  the  vessel 
being  crowded  with  passengers,  some  of  them  were  almost  stifled 
to  death.  In  thjs  way  we  were  beat  about  in  the  channel  for  2* 
hours,  often  within  u  few  miles  of  the  Irish  coast,  though  we  | 
could  not  reach  it ;  and  finally  we  were  obliged  to  put  back  to 
Port  Patrick.  .        >  '  ^- :r 

Two  days  thereafter  we  had  a  fair  wind,  which  wafted  us  ovw  I 
27  miles,  in  a  few  hours ;    and  we  set  foot  on  Pad(h/s  dominum 
just  as  it  began  t<>  get  dark. 

The  degree  of  prejudice  that  is  artfully  kept  alive  in  Britain 
against  Ireland,  would  hardly  be  believed  by  those  who  are  not  ac- 1 
quainted  with  it ;  and  such  was  the  effect  it  iiad  produced  on  me, 
that  though  I  did  not  believe  ttie  twentieth  part  of  the  stories  that 


inELAND.  '     241 

were  told  of  the  "  wild  Irish,"  yet,  on  hmding  at  Donaghadec,  I 
had  considerable  apprehensions  as  to  my  personal  safety;  and 
nothing  could  have  induced  me  to  travel  alone  at  that  hour  of  the 
night  in  a  post-chaise.  I  therefore  availed  myself  of  the  company 
of  my  Glasgow  friend,  whose  business  was  equally  urgent  with  my 
own:  we  posted  all  night  by  Belfast  and  Hillsborough;  and  at  day- 
light arrived  at  Banbridge.  Here  we  parted,  he  to  go  to  Wex- 
ford ;  I  took  a  post-chaise,  and  drove  on  with  all  the  despatch  that 
a  pair  of  very  sorry  horses  would  carry  me,  to  Dundrum  bay. 

On  my  way  thither  I  learned  the  unfortunate  fate  of  the  vessel ; 
and  on  reaching  the  spot,  I  found  her  lying  a  total  vreck  on  the 
shore,  and  the  inhabitants  collected  to  a  public  sale  of  her  ma- 
terials. 

The  supercargo  assured  mc  that  all  the  cargo  was  safe:  it  was  all 
landed  to  be  sure,  but  on  examination  I  found  it  so  completely 
drenched  with  sea-water,  that  it  was  very  questionable  whether  it 
would  bring  one-third  of  its  value;  and  the  expenses  I  found 
would  be  excessive.  My  first  impression  was,  that  we  should  sell  off 
the  whole  on  the  spot,  and  the  agent  and  I  had  an  advertisement 
drawn  up  to  that  effect ;  but  this  not  meeting  the  approbation  of 
ray  friends  in  Britain,  nor  the  owners  of  the  other  parts  of  the  car- 
go, I  reluctantly  yielded  up  my  opinion  to  theirs,  and  agreed  to 
ship  it  to  Liverpool :  in  consequence  of  this  determination,  I  was 
detained  eight  weeks  in  Ireland. 

As  our  agent  lived  at  Newry,  I  had  frequent  occasion  to  go 
there,  and  I  found  him  a  most  hospitable  nan,  frank,  friendly, 
and  obliging.  The  morning  after  my  arrival  he  carried  me  to  the 
coffee-house,  where  tliero  was  an  animated  debate  concerning  a 
newspaper;  and  which  subject,  though  apparently  trifling,  actu- 
ally involved  the  catholic  question.  One  of  the  subscribers,  a  very 
respectable  merchant  in  the  place,  was  charged  with  a  breach  of 
the  rules,  by  abstracting  the  public  papers  for  his  own  private  use. 
The  charge  was  founded  on  the  trivial  circumstance,  that  the 
gentleman  l)eing  confined  to  his  bed  by  indisposition,  his  clerk 
wished  to  communicate  a  piece  of  very  interesting  intelligence,  and 
carried  away,  with  leave  of  the  bar -keeper,  one  of  the  papers 
which  contained  it,  after  the  room  was  shut  at  night,  which  he  re. 
turned  before  it  was  opened  in  the  morning.  A  common  observer 
would  have  thought  that  there  was  really  no  harm  in  this :  it  \Yas 
,.  .  31 


11 


TRAVELS    IN 


S42 

calculated  to  iujiirc  nobody ;  and  if  there  was  any  blame  at  all,  it 
rcbtcd  witli  the  clerk,  not  the  employer.  Dut  «o  did  not  one  of 
the  sub!M;ribcrs  think.  He  made  it  the  ground  of  a  nioHt  serioiu 
charge,  in  which  he  overlooked  the  clerk  altogether,  and  fixed  on 
the  cnipU>yer  only.  The  matter  wa«  explained,  and,  as  miglii 
have  been  expected,  the  charge  was  scouted  by  the  good  sense  of 
the  people.  "  Why  was  it  mode?"  might  be  asked,  with  sur. 
prise,  by  those  who  do  not  know  the  management  of  regular  eo- 
vcrnnicnts.  The  gentleman  who  made  it  was  an  officer  under  go- 
vcrnment,  and  a  hercsif  hunter ;  his  antagonist  had  the  audacity  to 
be  a  lloman  catholic. 

Ncwry  is  siluatetl  on  a  river  called  Newry  Water,  at  the  head  of 
Carlingford  Bay,  and  enjoys  a  very  considerable  commerce,  espc- 
cially  in  tlic  Liverpool  trade.  The  bay  is  navigable  for  large  ves- 
sels to  within  a  few  miles  of  the  town,  and  the  navigation  is  thence 
continued  for  smaller  vessels  into  the  town  by  a  canal,  which  ruiii 
to  Lough  Neagh.  l'l»e  greater  part  of  the  town  is  low,  and  not 
very  clean  ;  but  part  of  it  is  on  high  ground,  on  which  thechurcii 
stands,  with  a  low  squat  steeple.  Tlie  country  round  is  hilly,  ex- 
cept to  the  north-west,  where  it  spreads  out  into  fine  fertile  plains. 

The  peculiar  configuration  of  the  town,  and  state  of  society  in  it, 
occasioned  the  following  lines  from  the  satirical  pen  of  Dean  Swift: 

.«,,  .  *    .  -^  ,  :..,  jjjg,,  church,    low  steeple^  j«*4  r 

Dirty  streets,  and  proud  people.         >,  i,    — •^^.     >,, 

Whether  the  people  in  general  deserve  the  character,  I  cannot  say; 
but  those  among  whom  I  associated  certainly  did  not.  I  found 
them  frank,  alTable,  polite,  and  friendly. 

My  business  in  Ireland  proved  much  more  troublesome  than  was 
originally  anticipated,  and  I  was  induced  to  go  to  Belfast  to  make 
some  enquiry  concerning  it.  From  Newry  to  Banbridge  is  10 
miles,  through  a  tolerably  jiood  soil,  improving  towards  the  latter 
})lace,  which  is  a  small  town,  surrounded  by  fine  bleachfields,  and 
has  a  good  linen  market.  Five  miles  beyond  Banbridge  we  passed 
Droniore,  the  scat  of  one  of  the  Irish  bishops;  and  four  miles 
from  thence  we  reached  Hillsborough,  finely  situated,  in  a  ricli 
and  flourishing  country,  and  ccntaining  about  100  houses.  The 
church  is  an  elegant  building,  with  a  very  lofty  spire;  and  the 
windows  are  stained,  in  imitation  of  some  of  the  English  cathe- 
drals. This  is  the  scat  of  the  Downshire  family,  one  of  the  most 
wealthy  in  Ireland. 


•,  I  cannot  sav; 


IRELAND.  2i3 

'fhrcc  miles  beyond  this  id  Lisbiim,  a  thriving  little  town,  in 
which  cotton  nmnufuctories  have  bvcn  established  to  n  very  conni- 
(lcral)lc  extent ;  and  seven  miles  from  thence,  through  a  very  ele- 
gniil  country,  and  highly  cultivated,  is  the  town  of  Belfast. 

Ikifuct  is  situated  at  the  head  of  Belfast  Lough,  and  is  a  hand- 
some pincc,  having  extensive  cotton  and  linen  manufactories,  and 
u  very  considerable  shipping  trade.  I  was  detained  here  part  of 
two  days,  and  found  the  inhabitants  very  civil  and  obliging,  'i'hose, 
in  particular,  with  whom  I  had  business,  were  unconmcnlv  atten- 
tive; and  one  gentleman,  who  was  a  good  deal  co.;';?ri;nMt  with 
the  mode  of  managing  shipwrecks  and  da'.i  i<^i;d  ioilou,  a,'i/?o<lio 
jwy  me  a  visit  at  Dundrum  Bay,  and  gic^i  lu  i  hi*  Ijcst  advico. 
This  matter  being  settled,  I  returned  t(»  New  .  y. 

We  changed  horses  at  Banbridge,  the  pl.K'.  wherj  i  p?rtet!  ^hh 
my  friend  on  my  way  to  Dundrum  Bay.  The  l\'>'jt)er,  n  Iujjj  or-* 
ous-iooking  fellow,  recognized  me.  "*  Wwi  r.ot  you  ihe  t;;en(,len5n;>," 
said  he,  "  that  I  got  the  chaise  for  the  I'otJicr  mor';;"»f/,  and  t'ldt 
gave  me  a  five-penny  in  place  of  a  tcn-pcT'.v.Vj  t?ra(Vr„'  he  h.wL 
no  more  change  ?"  "May  be«o,"  said  1,  tokir.g  my  scot  in  die 
carriage.  "And  shall  I  really  shut  the  do^r?"  snys,  he  looking 
very  humorously  in  my  face.  "  Certainly,"  said  1^  preieiuun^^  i^i^ 
norancc  of  his  meaning :  "  we  can't  travel  with  tlt(>  c»irriag'j  ioor 
open."  "  Well  now,"  said  he,  still  holding  thk^  dcxv,  '  aho  v/cui-i 
liave  expected  it  from  that  good,  generous- looking  fare ','"  "  13y 
my  skoul/*  said  I,  Paddy,  (giving  him  a  ten-penny,)  "ifyouirwit- 
men  don't  make  money,  it  will  not  be  for  want  of  b.ass.""  "  Och  / 
dear,  sure  our  tongues  were  never  mea:.it  foi  the  pockot."  rfi.id  Pad- 
dy, shutting  the  door  with  a  humorous  srji'.o,  a  id  ^ve  drove  rn. 

From  Newry  I  returned,  accompanied  b)  rny  frio.ul,  tj]Jundrum 
Bay,  where  1  had  immense  trouble  vlti.  the  cargo;  but  this  sub- 
ject, though  of  great  importance  *r  me.  being  of  no  consequence 
to  the  reader,  I  shall  pass  it  o\er,  and  notice  a  few  of  those  oc- 
currences which  aiP  more  geacrally  interesting. 

Dundrum  Buy,  where  the  vessel  was  :$trandcd,  is  a  large  bend 
in  the  Irish  Sea,  extending  across  from  Annalong  on  the  south- 
west to  Point  St.  John  on  the  south-east,  about  12  miles;  and  it 
extends  into  the  country  about  five  miles.  To  the  west  ai:e  the  lofty 
Mourne  mountains,  one  of  them  (Slieve  Donard,)  the  highest  in 
Ireland.  To  the  north-east  of  the  mountains,  the  country  spreads 
out  into  pretty  fertile  fields.        ..  .   _        ,  4;     * 


I 


''m. 


4-  iUW 


jr..,  .aJ!s  ^^ 


'i 


!S44  TRAVELS   IN 

At  the  foot  of  the  mountains  stands  Newcastle,  a  small  villag«, 
and  from  thence  eastward  the  sea  shore  is  a  sandy  beach,  two 
miles  to  Dundrum,  where  there  is  an  inlet.  This  inlet  spreads  to 
the  east  and  west  a  considerable  distance ;  the  western  part  is  a 
narrow  peninsula,  abounding  with  rabbits,  and  has  been  convert- 
ed into  a  rabbit  warren.  The  Lucy  was  driven  ashore  on  tlie 
eastern  part  of  this  peninsula ;  and  the  cargo  was  landed  on  the 
p^-emises  of  the  proprietors  of  the  rabbit  warren,  a  very  respecta- 
ble and  hospitable  family,  where  I  found  the  captain  and  super- 
cargo ;  and  with  whom  I  also  lodged  during  my  stay  there. 

The  landlord  was  near  70  years  of  age,  very  stout  made,  re- 
markably humoursome,  and  a  great  lover  of  the  game  of  whist 
The  landlady  was  nearly  as  fond  of  whist  as  her  husband;  and 
when  they  joined  their  forces,  they  were  an  overmatch  for  almost 
all  who  ventured  to  play  against  them. 

They  had  a  large  family,  all  grown  up,  of  whom  four  sods 
and  three  daughters  were  at  home;  they  all  played  whist:  they 
were  also  visited  by  some  of  the  most  respectable  people  in  the 
neighbourhood,  and  often,  in  the  evenings,  they  had  very  en- 
tertaining whist  parties.       •  '      ,  .  .'.  '..    ,\        ,  • 

It  was  early  in  the  morning,  after  one  of  these  parties,  that  the 
Lucy  met  with  her  hard  fate.  She  was  bound  to  Liverpool,  and, 
being  past  Skerries-light,  was  within  a  few  hours*  sail  of  pilot 
ground,  when  the  gale  commenced ;  and,  after  weathering  it  for 
three  days,  she  was  at  last  driven  ashore  here. 

The  old  man,  who  was  weather-wise,  anticipated  the  event. 
He  rose  from  the  card-table,  and  looked  out ;  and,  on  resuming 
his  seat,  observed,  "  It  cheats  me,  if  there  be  not  a  rat  caught  in 
the  trap  before  morning :"  and  so  there  was.  On  going  to  the 
beach  in  the  morning,  there,  high  and  dry,  the  Lucy  lay ;  and 
another  vessel,  about  a  mile  to  the  westward. 

The  captain  and  supercargo,  who  were  almost  dead  with  fa- 
tigue, were  taken  to  the  house,  and  hospitably  entertained;  and 
measures  were  taken  to  secure  the  wreck.  In  the  evening  there 
was  a  whist  party,  and  the  old  man,  seeing  the  captain  look  very 
pitiful  and  dejected,  advised  him  to  take  a  hand  at  whist,  to  cheer 
his  spirits.  The  captain  was  persuaded ;  but  something  else  than 
whist  was  uppermost  in  his  mind»  and  he  could  hardly  keep  him- 
self awake  while  he  played  two  or  three  games  very  badly.  H^ 
relinquished  the  game,  and  went  to  bed,  in  the  same  room  where 


IRELAND.  245 

the  landlord  slept.  The  landlord  did  not  go  to  bed  for  some  hours 
after,  when,  awakening  the  captain  with  some  difficulty,  the  lat- 
ter started  up  with  a  halloa,  calling  out,  "  What's  the  matter  ?" 
«  0  faith,  the  matter's  not  great,  dear,"  said  the  landlord.  "  I 
only  wanted  to  tell  you  that  you're  a  d— -d  bad  hand  at  whist,  and 
by  J— s,  you  shall  never  be  a  partner  of  mine  again,  for  I  lost 
two  ten-pennies  by  you." 

He  was  a  very  early  riser,  and  generally  came  to  my  room  in 
the  morning  to  wake  me ;  when  he  would  entertain  me  with  a 
thousand  witty  sayings.  Sometimes  he  would  descant  on  the 
beauties  of  the  creation,  the  brightness  of  the  sun,  the  healthy 
sea-breeze,  the  rising  plants,  and  the  singing  of  the  birds.  At 
other  times  he  would  remark,  that  the  air  was  "  as  thick  as  but- 
ter-milk," or  that  he  could  cut  it  with  a  knife ;  on  which  occa- 
sions he  would  say,  "  You  had  better  lie  still,  and  take  another 
sleep,  dear." 

We  were  introduced  to  a  number  of  the  families  round  ;  among 
others,  to  the  doctor  of  the  place,  who  was  n  man  of  talents,  and 
esteemed  one  of  the  greatest  wits  in  all  the  counti-y.  At  a  visit- 
ing party,  our  supercargo  and  the  doctor  entered  into  a  punning 
conversation ;  but  the  supercargo  was  no  match  for  the  doctor  at 
this  kind  of  discourse.  He  had  been  amusing  the  company  with 
a  number  of  tales  concerning  the  wonderful  size  of  some  of  the 
animals  in  America ;  amongst  others  the  well-known  story  of  the 
amazing  large  musquetoes  that  bit  general  Washington  through 
the  boots.*  As  an  offset,  the  doctor  told  an  equal  number  of  tales 
jibout  the  wonderful  animals  in  Ireland,  meeting  the  supercargo 
in  every  point,  except  the  musquetoes.  "  Well,"  said  the  super- 
cargo, triumphantly,  "  you  must  acknowledge  that  our  flies  arc 
larger  than  yours."  "  Yes,  faith,''  cried  the  doctor,  "  I'll  acknow- 
ledge it  with  all  my  heart,  if  you'll  only  take  away  the  f  from 
them." 

Several  linen  merchants  were  in  the  neighbourhood,  who  gave 
me  a  history  of  the  linen  trade  of  Ireland,  and  stated  that  the 
stoppajre  of  the  American  trade  was  ruining  their  business.  One 
of  theni  had  recently  returned  from  Rio  Janeiro,  where  he  had 
been  with  a  cargo  of  linens,  to  the  value  of  nearly  60,000  sterling, 
tended  by  the  flattering  accounts  held  out  by  the  iupporter&.of 


•  Sjo  Weld's  Trarcls. 


'■ii  i'.i  c?  va,w  .. 


S46  TRAVELS   IN 

the"  ministry.  He  returned  with  a  most  deplorable  tale.  He  was 
not  able  to  sell  above  one  third,  at  a  loss  of  30  per  cent.,  and  he 
could  only  get  a  precarious  produce  for  return,  by  which  he  an- 
ticipated a  loss  of  from  iO  to  20  per  cent.  more.  The  remainder 
of  the  goods  he  was  obliged  to  consign  into  other  hands,  and  leave 
the  place.  His  loss  altogether,  he  supposed,  would  be  fully  one 
half;  and  he  said  that  almost  every  other  sort  of  goods  were  sub- 
ject to  a  similar  depreciation.  Goods  were  pouring  in  from  all 
quarters, — London,  Liverpool,  Glasgow,  Manchester,  Birming- 
ham, Sheffield,  &c. ;  and  so  badly  informed  were  the  people  in 
some  places,  that  many  articles  sent  were  altogether  unsuitable  for 
the  market :  iron  grates,  fenders,  fire-irons,  warming-pans,  and 
skates,  were  exported  to  the  Brazils.  But  the  prince  regent  was 
our  august  ally,  and  therefore  that  country  must  be  a  fine  market 
ibr  all  sorts  of  manufactures.  "  Only  look  at  the  map,"  the  min- 
istenalists  would  exultingly  exclaim ;  "  only  look  at  the  map,  and 
see  the  amazing  extent  of  the  country :  how  rich !  how  finely 
watered  !  And  then  the  gold  mines  that  it  abounds  with ;  and  the 
noble  Portuguese  who  inhabit  it,  our  friends,  and  our  beloved 
allies.  Here's  a  field  for  our  surplus  manufactures  to  the  latest 
posterity ;  let  us  avail  ourselves  of  it,  and  kick  that  blackguard 
Yankee  trade  to  the  devil  I"  "  Amen,"  hi,ld  John  Bull ;  and, 
overlooking  the  trifling  circumstance,  that  it  was  inhabited  by  only 
half  a  million  of  people,  and  these  the  moet  poor,  pitiful,  bigot- 
ted,  priest-ridden  devils  under  the  sun,  he  did  avail  himself  of  it, 
and  can  now  calculate  the  value  of  the  avail !        •'•  /" 

My  friend  came  from  Belfast,  according  to  promise,  and 
brought  two  or  three  cotton  spinners  along  with  him.  They 
looked  at  the  cotton,  and,  giving  their  best  advice,  invited  me 
to  convoy  them  as  far  as  Bailynahinch.  Here  we  were  met  by 
our  agent  from  Newry,  and  spent  a  very  happy  evening  together. 
I  got  an  account  of  the  battle  of  Bailynahinch,  and  of  the  present 
state  of  Ireland,  and  next  morning  set  out  to  Dundrum,  distant 
nine  miles.  '        "rl  i^ 

There  was  neither  horse  nor  chaise  to  be  hired  here  ;  so  I  wa^ 
obliged  to  walk.  Learning  that  there  were  some  medicinal  springs 
by  the  way,  I  went  about  two  miles  out  of  the  direct  road  to  visit 
them.  Before  1  had  got  that  length,  a  very  severe  rain  came  on,aDd 
I  was  glad  to  take  shelter  in  a  little  wretched  cabin  beside  the  springs. 
The  old  woman  was  kind  to  an  excess,  brought  me  a  dram  of  whis- 


IRIIANO. 


247 


l^ey  and  regretted  that  the  accomodation  was  so  poor.  After  I 
had  warmed  and  dried  myself  a  little, ,  she  looked  out,  and  pro- 
nounced that  it  would  rain  all  day.  She  then  asked,  whether  I 
had  ever  heard  of  Mr.  Fox,  and,  upon  being  answered  in  the  af- 
firmative, she  put  a  few  more  c,ue:;tions,  to  learn  whether  I  ap- 
proved of  Mr.  Fox's  sent.'nients.  1  could  not  divine  the  meaning 
of  this,  and  was  pondering  the  subject  in  my  mind,  when  a  young 
boy  in  livery  called  at  the  house,  and  told  me  the  counsellor  sent 
his  compliments,  and  requested  I  would  call  npon  him,  as  he 
wished  to  see  me.  I  was  surprised,  and  was  going  to  ask  the  old 
woman  who  the  counsellor  was ;  but  she  sealed  my  lips  by  telling 
me,  just  to  step  up  to  the  counsellor's,  and  it  would  be  all  ex- 
plained to  me.  I  obeyed,  and  followed  the  messenger.  "  And 
who  is  the  counsellor,  my  young  fellow  ?"  said  I,  as  we  walked 
towards  the  house.  "  He  is  counsellor  Trotter,  sir,"  said  the  boy. 
"What,"  said  I,  "  the  same  that  was  private  secretary  to  Mr, 
Fox  ?"  "  Yes,"  said  the  boy.  This  accounted  for  the  conduct 
of  the  old  woman;  and  I  shall  ever  remember  her  with  gratitude, 
for  being  the  means  of  introducing  me  to  the  bosom  friend  and 
biographer  of  Charles  James  Fox. 

The  counsellor  and  I  soon  got  intimately  acquainted.  I  answer- 
ed all  his  questions  concerning  America,  and  he  gave  me  a  great 
deal  of  information  regarding  Mr.  Fox's  private  life,  including  an 
account  of  his  journey  to  France,  in  which  Mr.  Trotter  accom- 
panied him,  and  of  his  death,  at  which  he  '.*as  present  I  was 
delighted  with  his  conversation,  and  the  day,  as  if  determined  to 
prolong  it,  continuing  very  stormy,  I  availed  myself  of  his  hospi- 
table offer,  and  staid  all  night.  Next  morning  early,  I  set  out  for 
Dundrum. 

During  my  stay  at  this  place,  I  received  letters  announcing  the 
an-ival  of  one  my  partners  from  Savannah,  and  stating  that  I 
must  hold  myself  in  readiness  to  return  to  America.  I  was  sick 
of  my  present  situation,  and  longed  to  be  home;  so,  inviting  my 
partner  to  come  and  take  charge  of  the  cargo,  1  continued  ship- 
ping it  to  Liverpool  with  all  possible  despatch.  My  partner  arriv- 
ed just  as  we  were  shipping  the  last  of  the  cargo  ;  and  I  consigned 
the  remaining  business  to  his  charge,  and  made  the  best  of  my 
*ay  to  Glasgow.  He  attended  the  cargo  to  Liverpool,  where  it 
found  a  market  at  a  little  more  than  what  was  sufficient  to  pay 
Hie  expense".     Had  it  arrived  safe,  it  would  have  yielded  a  clci  r 


m 

m. 

1  *  W- 

1^1 

lui 

'  (^ 

kR 

ijjggmM 

'i 

«Wvr<i;Hi 

m 

1 

wt 

mi:a; 


•348  tRAVlLS   IN 

profit  of  afi.7000.  Such  are  some  of  the  turns  of  fate !  There  wa 
not  one  penny  of  insurance  upon  it,  nor  the  power  of  making  it. 
The  first  account  that  I  received  of  it  was  by  the  before-mention. 
ed  letters  from  Castlewellan.  i 


CHAPTER  LIL 

■    •    ■  '  ■     Iteturn  to  Giasgaw.  «     '  -^ 

^PRIL  20th.  Having  completed  the  shipment,  I  parted  from 
my  hospitable  entertainers  with  sentiments  of  friendly  regard,  and 
set  out  on  my  return  to  Glasgow,  taking  Strangford  in  my  way, 
in  order  to  clear  out  the  vessels  at  the  custom-house ;  and  I  was 
accompanied  by  my  agreeable  friend,  the  agent  at  Newry.  We 
passed  through  Downpatrick,  the  capital  of  Downshire,  a  pretty 
large  town,  but  not  handsome ;  though  it  is  situated  on  a  fertile 
country,  and  carries  on  a  considerable  trade. 

On  our  arrival  at  Strangford,  the  deputy  collector  executed  our 
business  with  great  despatch,  and  very  much  like  a  gentleman, 
which  is  a  compliment  that  I  cannot  pay  to  all  his  majesty's  ser- 
vants in  Ireland,  with  wliom  I  had  to  deal.  If  I  were  inclined 
to  be  ill-natured  here,  I  could  give  a  great  big  thrashing  to  a  cer- 
tain gentleman,  that  lives  not  a  hundred  miles  from  the  foot  of 
Mourne  Mountains,  who  thinks  "  he  has  a  right  to  make  the  most 
of  his  situation  on  the  coast ;"  and  seems  to  be  of  opinion,  that 
he  is  justifiable  in  adopting  any  means  in  the  exercise  of  that 
right ;  but  I  am  now  in  a  hurry  to  be  at  Glasgow,  and  shall  pass 
over  his  conduct. 

We  crossed  over  to  Portaferry,  betwixt  which  and  Strangford 
the  tide  r\ms  with  a  velocity  that  I  have  never  yet  seen  equalled. 
We  dined  at  Portaferry,  after  which  the  agent  and  I  parted  with 
many  professions  of  sincere  regard. 

From  Portaferry  to  Donaghadee  is  about  16  miles,  partly  along 
the  coast.  The  country  is  pretty,  but  the  soil  in  many  places  is 
poor.  This  district  was  mostly  peopled  from  Scotland,  and  I 
could  observe  a  remarkable  coincidence  in  dialect  between  tb« 
people  on  both  sides  of  the  channel.  I  reached  Donaghadee  at 
10  o'clock  in  the  morning;  and  a  number  of  vessels  loaded  vitl' 
bullocks,  being  about  to  sail  for  Port  Patrick,  1  engaged  a  pas*  | 
i»ngc  in  one  of  them,  to  sail  at  2  o'clock. 


IMMLkKiD. 


9^d 


!  There  wm 
f  making  it. 
bre-menttofr 


parted  from 

I 

y  regard,  and 

1 

1  in  my  way, 

■ 

se;  and  I  was 

I 

Newry-    We 

I 

shire,  a  pretty 

■ 

ed  on  afertik 

I 

ir  executed  our 
I  a  gentleman, 
;  majesty's  set- 

were  inclined 
ishing  to  a  cer- 

im  the  foot  of 

make  the  most 
opinion,  thai 

:ercise  of  tliai 
and  shall  pass 

ul  Strangford 

I  seen  equalled. 

I  parted  witli 

,  partly  along 
Lany  places  is 
otland,  and  I 
between  th« 
)onaghadce  at 
.  loaded  witl'| 
bgaged  a  pa»* 


iDtihem^eon  time,  I  could  not  help  <:ontrasting  ^  sensationR  I 
now  had  regarding  Ireland  with  those  I  entertained  of  the  country 
before  I  saw  it.  I  noticed^  on  landing  ^t  Donaghadcc,  that  "  Iha^ 
considerable  apprehensions  for  my  personal  safety,  and  nothing 
could  have  induced  me  to  travel  alone  at  night  in  a  post  chaise." 
Now,  however,  I  was  satisfic<l  that  I  could  not  only  travel  alon^  in 
a  post-chaise,  but  that  I  could  travel  in  any  way,  and  at  all  hours, 
with  as  much  safety  as  I  could  In  any  part  of  Britain.  I  was,  in 
hct,  highly  pleased  both  with  the  country  and  the  inhabitants. — 
The  vessel  set  sail  in  the  ^fternoon,  and  arrived  at  Port  Patrick  a- 
bout  sundown.  The  evening  was  very  cl^r,  and  I  could  see  the 
Mourne  Mountains  at  the  distance  of  50  miles. 

At  Port  Patrick  I  met  with  an  Irish  gentleman  who  was  tra- 
velling to  Glasgow,  and  being  pleased  with  his  appearance,  I  wa^s 
very  glad  to  .have  him  for  atruvelling  companion.  We  started  by 
the  stage  at  6  o'clock  in  the  morning,  t^nd  travelled  along  the  coast, 
which  we  found  pretty  rugged,  hilly  and  barren ;  but  abounding  in 
fine  views  which  were  seen  to  ^reat  advantage,  the  day  being  re- 
markably clear.  At  one  place,  on  the  top  of  a  hill,  we  could  see 
the,  whole  north  channel;  the  coasts  of  Ireland  and  Scotland;  the 
islands  of  Arran,  Bute,  and  Ailsa;  and  I  could  also  distinctly  per- 
ceive the  Mourne  Mountains,  although  we  were  now  upwards  of  80 
miles  distant. 

In  the  course  of  our  journey  I  discovered  that  my  travelling  com- 
panion had  a  fine  taste  for  music ;  and  being  provided  with  an  ex- 
cellent flute,  in  his  travelling  cane,  he  entertained  me  with  a  great- 
er number  of  Irish  tunes  than  I  had  ever  heard  before. 

When  we  drew  near  Ayr  wo  left  the  couch  and  crossed  over  the 
.country  about  half  a  mile  to  the  old  road,  to  see  the  birth-place  of 
the  immortal  Burns.  It  *  -  a  lowly  one-story  house,  the  one  end 
ilated,  the  other  thatched.  Being  ushered  into  the  slated  end,  which 
had  a  deal  floor,  we  called  for  a  "  whisky  gill,"  with  which  we 
made  a  libation  to  the  memory  of  the  departed,  bard;  and  having 
repeated  "  Tam  o'  Shanter,"  the  scene  of  which,  «  AUpway  ICirk," 
18  hard  by,  we  set  out  for  Ayr.  At  the  end  of  the  town  we  pas^sed 
aniost  princely  house,  which  might  have  been  with  much  propriety 
dedicated  to  Folly.  It  was  the  fruits  of  a  rapid  fortune  made  by 
imuggling,  which,  like  many  such,  had  taken  to  itself  the  wings  of 
the  morning  and  departed ;  but  the  house  remained  an  emblem  of 
Jhe  cupidity  and  imprudence  of  its  former  owner. 

3S 


.  t.  i;,. 


vl  y^  I :  ■:! 


A']i 


250  TRAVELS    IN 

I  ».  The  stage  procoeded  no  further  than  Ayr ;  but  being  anxious  to 
reach  Glasgow,  my  fellow-traveller  agreed  to  accompany  me  in  a 
post  chaise,  which  having  procured,  we  arrived  at  2  o'clock  next 
morning.  ..   ./r,.  ,-.      •■■..-■.■;    .-_.'    ...-i   ■.-■■    -:.,.,;..!  -,>,      ,'  ,■■■ 

"^    !''!^       ;'  CHAPTER  LIU.       '  ' 

GfasgcxVi — Edinburgh) — Liverpool^ — Manahester, — Leedsy — Isot- 

tinghaniy — London, 

kSOON  after  my  return  from  Ireland,  I  was  highly  gratified  with 
the  account  of  Mr.  Erskine's  arrangement  with  the  United  StateSj 
and  the  removal  of  the  non*intercourse;  which  was  followed  by  a 
removal  of  the  orders  in  council  in  Britain :  but  the  hope  induced 
by  these  circumstances  was  of  short  duration.  Two  days  had  not 
elapsed  before  meetings  of  the  shipping  interest  were  held,  and  the 
ministry  were  assailed  with  most  deplorable  tales  concerning  the 
loss  of  their  trade.  One  set  of  them  had  the  audacity,  indeed,  to 
set  up  tlie  pica  that  if  the  Americans  were  allowed  a  free  trade,  ft 
would  deprive  the  British  shipping  interest  of  the  carrying  trade  to 
Holland.  To  Holland  !  Yes,  to  Holland  ! — a  country  with  which 
the  nation  was  at  war ;  and  to  trade  with  which  was  declared  to  be 
high  treason  by  the  laws  of  the  land  ! 

A  cabinet  council  was  held,  at  which  it  is  said  Mr.  Canning,  the 
secretary  for  foreign  affairs,  took  a  most  active  part,  and  strenuous- 
ly supported  the  principle  that  Mr.  Erskine's  arrangement  should 
be  ratified ;  but  a  certain  elevated  personage  took  umbrage  at  some  I 
expressions  in  the  papers,  and  would  not  agree  !  and  the  orders  in 
council  were  re-enacted  in  a  new  form,  called  a  blockade.  Thus  were 
the  valuable  manufactures  of  the  country  sacrificed  to  the  whim  of 
an  individual,  and  the  mei*cantile  cupidity  of  a  shipping  interest. 

The  public  will  be  able  to  form  a  pretty  correct  judgment  as  t»  I 
what  degree  of  knowledge  in  political  economy  was  possessed  by 
the  men  to  whom  was  confided  the  management  of  the  afiiiirsofa 
great  commercial  nation,  by  adyerting  to  the  following  fuct^: 
It  was  estimated  by  Mr.  Pitt  that  the  profits  of  the  *' 

-f   nation  arising  from  manufactures  amounted  to    £.  14,100,(1 
From  the  merchant  shipping  and  small  craft       *    .    jf,  1,000,000 1 
The  hands  employed  in  manufactures  were  esti-  ;. ., 

mated  at   .«.   ,,-iH-  -■-,„  ,.  -    .\...i  .','.•  ...  ',  '•  1,680,OCO| 


(.'! 


^.i;^ 


KNGLAND. 


251 


£.  7,000,000 


■  fi 


:     '.r.r.'ji'l 

675,000 
20,000 


Seamen  in  the  merchant  service  at  ^  ■  155,000 

The  income  arising  from  manufactures  destined  for 

the  united  States 
The  bands  employed  in  manufactures  for  the  U- 

nited  States  ,      .; 

And  1  presume  that  the  hands  employed  in   th^ 

whole  trade  with  the  enemies  of  the  country  do 

uot  exceed 

And  yet  a  fair,  honourable,  and  safe  trade,  to  a  great  extent,  with 
a  friendly  neutral,  has  been  sacrificed  to  a  poor,  pitiful,  limited,  dis- 
honourable, and  precarious  commerce,  subject  to  the  regulation  of 
the  arch-enemy  of  the  country.  Could  that  enemy  have  managed 
the  matter  with  more  advantage  to  his  views? 

I  now  calculated  that  the  American  trade  was  at  an  end,  and  im- 
mediately decided  to  set  out  for  that  country  to  inquire  into  the  state 
ofour  property  there,  and  make  the  best  arrangement  regarding 
it  that  circumstances  might  point  out.  Before  taking  my  passage 
for  America,  it  was  necessary  to  make  a  very  extended  tour  in  Bri- 
tain; and  though  it  was  so  rapid  as  to  be  almost  barren  of  incident 
or  observation,  yet  I  shall  state  the  outlines,  so  as  to  continue  the 
chain  of  connexion  with  the  other  parts  of  these  travels. 

I  set  out  from  Glasgow  on  the  1st  of  August,  1809,  and  travelled 
hy  the  coach  to  Edinburgh.  From  thence  I  crossed  the  Forth  to 
Kirkaldy,  Cupar,  and  Dundee,  and  returned  to  Edinburgh. 

On  die  6th,  I  left  Edinburgh  in  the  mail  coach  for  Carlisle.  We 
passed  through  Dalkeith,  Selkirk  and  Langholm.  A  great  part 
of  the  journey  was  in  the  night,  and  the  weather  was  very  rainy/ 
The  soil  appeared  pretty  good  to  Dalkeith,  which  is  a  handsome 
little  town,  nine  miles  from  Eldinburgh,  with  the  seat  of  the  duke 
of  Buccleugh  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  soil  continues  good  a 
considerable  way  beyond  Dalkeith,  after  which  the  country  is  poor 
I  and  luliy ;  but  it  answers  well  for  pasture,  and  the  people  keep  large 
flocks  of  sheep. 

I  reached  Carlisle  at  6  o*clock,  and  continued  my  journey  to  Li- 
verpool, where  I  arrived  at  3  o'clock  next  morninii.  ,  •'st  ^ 

In  the  afternoon  1  left  Liverpool  for  Manchester,  and  continued 
I  n>y  journey  to  Halifax  and   Leeds,   and  thence  through  a  fertile 
country  eight  miles,  to  Wakefield,  a  neat  town,  having  extensive  ' 
[•nannfactures  of  woollens,  particularly  stuffs. 

From  Wakefield  to  Sheflield  is  24  miles,  through  a  rich,  well 


1 

N 

~M 

m 

'inpjl^'' 

i^K^ 

^''1^4'^^ 

■ .  Jf  -A  "JJlfi 

\\k3tKi^Bm 

QWniw&KB'Ki 

■1 

wm 

rl^l 


thf^  TRAV£L«  IH 

cnHivatcd  country ;  and  at  Sheffield  are  the  greatest  manufactorici 
of  edge-tools  in  England.  The  master 'Cutlers  are  here  600  in  nuns 
ber,  and  the  quantity  and  variety  of  work  that  is  produced  is  in* 
mense.  America  is  a  great  and  important  market  for  Sheffield  goodi. 

On  the  morning  of  the  15lh  of  August,  at  one  o'clock,  I  left  Shef- 
field for  Nottingham,  distant  38  milcg.  Of  the  country  I  could  see 
nothing  till  1  was  near  Nottuigham,  and  there  it  is  fertile  and  well 
improved.  ,,      ,  .      :.,v        ,. 

Nottingham  is  situated  on  the  steep  ascent  of  u  rock,  overlook- 
^iig  the  river  Trent,  and  a  vast  range  of  adjoining  meadows.  It  \i 
A  large,  populous,  and  pretty  handsome  town,  having  the  streets  well 
pa^ed,  and  a  good  market-place :  it  is  a  pt'incipal  seat  of  the  manu- 
facture of  cotton  and  silk  hosiery,  and  lace;  and  sends  annually  a 
vast  quantity  of  goods  to  America.  There  is  a  castle  situated  on  a 
high  part  of  the  eminence,^  which  ha&  a  fine  .effect  wh^ii  viewed  at  a 
distance,     -r  -         -^"   :•  *     *■  '--■  ••     • 

Here  I  took  a  passage  by  the  mail  coach  for  London ;  and  setting 
out  at  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning,  we  passed  through  Norman^ 
Melton,  Mov'bray,  Oakham,  Uppingham,  Koekinghotn,  Harbo- 
rough,  Kettering,  Wellingborough,  Harold,  Bedford,  Shelford^ 
Hitchin,  Hatfield,  Barnet,  and  Highgate,  And  reached  LondoAj 
distant  from  Nottingham  124i  miles,  at  $  o'clock  next  morning. 

My  business  in  London  waft  soon  settled,  and  I  devoted  a  day  to 
sec  my  friends;  but  I  was  too  much  hurried  to  go  to  any  ofth^ 
pablic  places  with  which  tlie  city  abounds,  except  Vauxhall  Gar- 
dens. This  place  is  considered  a  great  curiosity j  and  in  all  my  for* 
mer  visits  to  London  1  had  never  Imd  an  oppcnrtunity  of  seeing  it. 
I  bad  been  out  of  town  dining  with  a  friend^  and  hurried  to  the  Lori* 
don  eofibe^house  to  go  to  th6  gardens.  Just  as  I  arrived  I  found 
a  Scotsman  from  Georgia  At  his  glass  of  win^ :  he  invited  me  to  par- 
tmke  ofit )  but  I  declined  it,- telling  him  that  I  was  in  a  t^urry  to  goto 
Vauxhall;  hie  finished  his  wine,  aiKl  agreed  to  aceoinpahy  me.  It 
was  the  duke  of  York's  birth-night,  he  told  me,  and  there  would  be 
scmie  extra  amusemients.  As  we  travelled  towai^ds  the  gardens  I 
perceived  that  my  friend  had  taken  a  glass  too  much^  and  it  began 
t6  operate  pretty  vehemently  to  the  prejudice  of  the  English  people. 
I  did  not  r^pnrd  this  when  by  ourselves ;  but  I  admonished  him  to 
be  more  circumspect  in  his  cenduet  and  expresaicMM  when  we  i^onid 
reach  the  garden,  which  he  readily  asis^ited  to*  ..  ^--i;     . 

On  our  arrival,  1  was  delighted  vtith  th^e  vast  variety  arid  brilK- 


EKOLAVD.  25} 

ancy  of  the  lamps,  and  the  immense  concourse  of  people.     An  or- 
chestra was  in  the  middle*  and  we  had  some  vocal  and  instrumental 
music;  but  as  I  never  admired  English  music,  I  pass  it  over.     In 
a  short  time  my  friend  proposed  at»  adjoiirnntent  to  a  tcht,  where 
we  might  have  something  to  drink :  he  called  for  a  bowl  of  arrack 
nuncfa)  and  seeing  sortie  company  pass,  he  invited  two  of  them  to 
take  seats  b^ide  u«j  and  n  shnrc  of  our  fjtre.      "While  we  were  thui 
gitasted,  tht  fi^e-works  wefe  anilounced,  and  wishing  to  see  the 
whole  economy  of  these  f^ttrdctis,  1  went  to  view  them.     They  were 
iplendidi    On  my  return  I  found  my  friend  had  got  a  second  bowl 
of  arrack ;  aiid  observing  two  of  three  men  in  the  highliind  dress, 
he  invited  them  to  join  us,   and  ordered  a  third  bowl.     While  wc 
were  tihiis  erigiiged,  a  band  of  music,  overhead,  struck  up  Rathe- 
iDurebe's  Rant,  and  a  ring  being  formed  among'  the  spectators, 
atmmbei'of  g^utlelmen  aftd  ladiei^  danced  Scots  reels.     This  gave 
hiy  friend,  who  was  a  great  Scotsrfian,  fresh  animation,  and  he  be- 
gan to  flourish  ihr^y,  arid  drttw  comparisons  between  his  country- 
men atid  the  Efiglish  that  I  did  not  at  all  like,  and  proposed  that 
w<!  should  iinmediately  go  homd.     Having  assented  to  this,  I  left 
hitn  to  adjust  atid  settle  the  bill,  w-hile  I  w6nt  to  sed  the  water-works. 
On  my  tetntn  I  fonnd  him  embrdled  with  some  of  the  natives, 
Whom  he  was  denouncing  tls  a  set  of  tailors;  and  the  bill  was  stUI 
dlisettled.     I  instantly  paid  it,  and  looked  round  for  my  friend — 
but  be  WJts  gone;     On  mftking  enquiry  for  him  of  the  by-standet% 
I  was  told  that  h^  had  been  eoitimitted  to  the  watch-house;  and  it 
was  with  great  difficulty  that  I  esci(iped  being  implicated  as  an  ac- 
€oitl|*lice.     Having,  with  considerable  address,  cleared  myself  from 
the  impUt^tidUj  I  nt  Inst  prevailed  ivith  some  of  his  antagonists  to 
coliduet  m^  to  the  ^atch-honse,  wher^  I  found  my  friend  caged  up, 
And  declaiihitlg  against  the  English  with  most  dreadful  vociferation. 
After  several  hours  trouble,  in  the  dead  of   night,  with  watch- 
inenj  constables,  B.>w-strtet  ruttn^rS,  8tc.  &c.  I  at  last  succeeded  in 
getting  hiiti  out  of  durance  tile,  attd  we  made  the  best  of  our  way 
to  the  London  boflee-hous^e,  which  we  reached  at  3  o'clock  in  the 
mornirtg ;  and  here  I  madfe  a  VOW  that  I  would  never  after  accom- 
pany a  Scotsman  to  Vauxhall  gardeili,  unless  I  previously  knew 
that  he  had  so  far  drvEsted  himself  of  national  prejudice  as  to  pay 
ah  wjiiixl  rtspcet  to  Englishmen  Ski  to  those  of  his  own  country. 


itf   '\<i 


#<>.v,r 


, »  $■   ,  j\  ^  J,  t  ^ 


254 


TRAVKLS   IK 


V  • 


CHAPTER  LIV. 


!' 


I 


Lomlorii — Oxford^ — Birmingham^ — Shre-xshtirt/, — Liverpool. 

X  LEFT  London  on  the  evening  of  the  18th  of  August,  by  the 
mail  coach,  and  travelling  all  night,  passed  through  Uxbridac, 
Stockton,  and  Oxford,  where  is  the  celebrated  university ;  but  1 
could  see  nothing  of  it  at  the  hour  we  passed.  We  continued  our 
course  through  Woodstock,  Shipton,  and  Stratford ;  and  at  ]0 
o'clock  on  the  1 9th  we  arrived  at  Birmingham,  distant  from  Lon- 
don 116  miles. 

Birmingham  is  situated  in  the  middle  of  a  fertile  and  populous 
country,  and  is,  in  point  of  population,  the  fourth  town  in  England, 
its  inlmbitants  amounting  to  73,670.  Part  of  the  the  town  lies  low, 
and  the  houses  arc  mean  and  unsightly ;  but  a  considerable  por- 
tion is  elevated,  and  abounds  with  handsome  houses.  The  hard- 
ware manufactures  of  Birmingham  are  unrivalled,  and  vast  quanti- 
titles  of  goods  of  all  descriptions  have  been  made  up  annually  for 
the  American  market.  The  works  of  Bokon  and  Watt  arc  at  So* 
1m>,  inthis  neighbourhood,  and  are  in  a  state  of  organization  pro- 
bably superior  to  any  other  in  the  world.  It  is  calculated  that  since 
the  introduction  of  their  improved  steam  engine,  the  labour  saved 
by  it  ulone,  in  Britain,  amounts  to  20  millions  sterling  tinnually. 

The  trade  of  Birmingham  is  greatly  facilitated  by  canal  naviga- 
tion, which  is  here  very  complete ;  affording  a  water  eommuni- 
cation  to  London,  Hull,  Liverpool,  and  Brbtol,  and  througliout 
the  whole  interior  .of  the  country.  From  Birmingham  I  travelled 
to  Shrewsbury,  in  company  with  a  Mr.  James,  a  civil  engineer, 
who  resides  in  Warwickshire ;  and  as  the  country  through  which 
we  passed  abounded  with  mines  of  coal,  iron,  and  beds  of  lime- 
stone, I  derived  a  good  deal  of  information  from  him.  He  stated 
that  the  yearly  income  arisng  from  the  mines,  in  the  counties  of 
Warwick  and  Stafford,  was  incredible,  and  the  number  of  hands 
employed  in  the  bowels  of  the  earth  was  immense.  The  business 
was  remarkably  well  systematized)  he  observed,  and  was  highly 
conducive  to  the  progress  of  knowledge  and  liberality  of  sentiment, 
Even  the  minds  of  the  common  workmen  were  affected  by  a  view 
of  the  grand  operations  of  nature  in  the  heart  of  the  earth,  and 
they  had  a  degree  of  intelligence,  and  a  spirit  of  independence) 


INCLANO. 


255 


I 
to- 


qtilte  different  from  the  workmen  in  the  manufacturing  towns. 
found  this  gentleman's  company  very  agreeable,  in  a  journey 
aether  of  46  miles,  when  we  arrived  at  Shrewsbury. 

Shrewsbury  is  situated  on  the  river  Severn,  and  is  a  place  of 
considerable  trade,  but  the  streets  are  narrow,  and  it  exhibits  no 
very  handsome  appearance.  Being  in  one  of  the  counties  adjoin- 
ing Wales,  it  is  well  calculated  for  the  woollen  trade,  and  a  con- 
siderable portion  of  its  manufactures  arc  calculated  for  the  Ameri- 
can market,  particularly  plains  and  flannels. 

On  Monday,  the  21st  of  August,  I  left  Shrewsbury  jit  five 
o'clock,  by  the  stage,  and  passed  through  Ellesmcrc,  and  Wrex- 
ham, to  Chester,  at  wliich  we  dine<l.  Hero  1  hod  leisure  to  take 
a  walk  round  the  city,  along  the  top  of  the  wall  with  which  it  is 
surrounded,  from  whence  there  is  a  fine  view.  Some  of  the  chief 
steets,  are  singular  in  their  construction,  being  cut  out  of  a  rock, 
below  the  level  of  the  ground  ;  and  the  houses  have  a  portico  in 
front,  which  serves  for  a  covered  foot-path.  The  shops  and  ware- 
houses are  in  the  sides  of  the  rock,  and  on  a  level  with  the  streets, 
to  which  there  is  occasionally  an  ascent  by  stairs.  Chester  is  the 
residence  of  a  number  of  people  from  Wales,  with  which  country 
it  carries  on  a  considerable  trade.  Its  population  amounts  to  about 
15,000. 

From  Chester  I  continued  my  journey  12  miles,  through  an  a- 
greeable  open  country,  and  passing  the  Mersey,  by  a  ferry-boat, 
I  arrived  in  Liverpool  at  six  o'clock  in  the  evening. 

From  the  22d  of  August  to  the  3d  of  September,  I  was  busily 
employed  in  Liverpool,  making  preperations  for  my  embarkation 
to  America.  During  this  period  I  had  a  little  time  for  reflection 
on  the  situation  of  England  and  America ;  and  every  thing  seemed 
to  portend  most  important  consequences.  The  British  administra- 
tion appeared  determined  to  adhere  to  the  new  system  of  blockade; 
and  they  were  backed  by  the  whole  power  and  influence  of  the 
tory  party,  including  the  shipping  interest,  the  monied  interest, 
and  all  the  placemen  and  pensioners  in  the  country.  Their  oppo- 
nents of  the  whig  party,  though  firm  to  their  principles,  were  fee- 
ble and  dispirited ;  and  thus,  secure  in  power  and  influence,  and 
having  a  very  slender  opposition,  it  was  not  reasonable  to  be  ex- 
pected that  they  would  abandon  a  measure  hich  formed  a  moiit 
important  part  of  their  system  of  policy.  On  the  other  hand,  I 
was  well  convinced  that  the  American  govcrmiient  would  set  up, 


^■;  ,,^r; 


1.  ■  -  • 


]iiri|''% 


^'^11. 


("I 


I, 


,-\  im 


4    ..  '■•<, 

Iff  ,}    ■r'r^  *K  - 


TIAVBLS  ON 


i 


l\ 


256 

and  persevere  in,  a  xosMtance  of  MHueiund,  wbilo  thcie  orders  coo. 
tmued.  From  a  viow  of  Uic  recent  measures  of  that  country,  u. 
tleed,  it  was  impossible  to  form  an  opinion  wjiat  this  rexistancf 
would  be ;  but  I  was  well  aware,  upon  tiie  whole,  that  the  codm' 
qucncos  resulting  from  thcinterruptions  of  commerce,  would  tcud 
much  to  wuoken  the  connection  between  the  two  countrioK,  and  ibot 
America  would  every  day  become  more  independent  of  Britain. 


CHAPTER  LV. 

I  I       Liverpool, — Banks  of  Neuafoundland, — Neva  Yoil: 

Having  finished  my  business  in  Liverpool,  I  engaged  apas- 
sage  for  myself  and  son  by  the  Pacific,  captain  Staunton,  for 
Kew  York.  .  .  , 

The  other  passengers  were  two  merchants  of  New  Yqrk ;  two 
Yorkshire  merchants;  a  Liverpool  merchant,  'who  called  himklj 
an  American  citizen ;  and  a  merchant  of  Savannah  ip  Georgia, 
We  had  also  the  captain  and  two  mates  of  the  ship  Manhattan, 
which  had  been  sold  in  Liverpool. 

The  passengers  had  agreed  to  rendezvous  at  the  King's  Aro^ 
tavern  on  the  evening  before  the  vessel  sailed,  at  10  o'clock,  to  go 
on  board  together,  as  she  was  to  weigh  anchor  very  early  in  the 
morning.  I  had  to  step  out  of  town  a  little  way  to  transact  some 
business  with  a  friend,  and  the  night  being  dark  and  wet,  it  was 
a  little  past  the  appointed  hour  before  we  got  to  the  place  of  ren- 
dezvous. The  company  were  gone,  and  we  had  to  trudge  thrQu^ii 
Liverpool  in  quest  of  a  boat,  but  none  was  to  be  found.  It  was 
quite  dar]c  and  rainy ;  and  wet,  perplexed,  and  disappointed,  wt 
were  landed  in  a  small  ale-)iouse,  on  one  of  the  wharfs,  at  1 
o'clock  in  the  morning.  The  landlord  was  a  good-natured  man, 
and  used  every  effort  to  get  us  on  board,  but  without  effect :  and  I 
really  began  to  be  apprehensive  that  we  would  lose  our.  passage. 
At  length  an  Irish  sailor  came  infromaneighbouriiigvesseltogcta 
pint  of  ale,  and  the  landlord  whispered  to  me,  that, if  I  spoke bim 
fait'i  perhaps  he  could  get  me  on  board.  I  thougljit  the  fairest  way 
of  speakig  liim  would  be  to  use  his  own  style,  and  assumed  the 
character  of  a  countryman  in  distress,  which  pro4uced  ftn  imine- 
diate  effect  on  Paddy's  feelings,  and  he  told  jne  if  Morgan  would 


THE    ATLANTIC    OCKAN.  t257 

«o,  he  would.  lie  called  Morgan,  who,  with  ccnsiderable  reluc- 
tance, complied.  The  next  difficulty  wn«  to  ri*i>J  the  vessel;  for 
it  was  nearly  as  dark  aH  pitch,  and  we  had  \>  go  about  throe 
miles  up  the  river.  I  did  not  wish  to  tolk  inurN,  for  fear  that  my 
.speech  "would  bewray  me,"  and,  as  good  luck  would  have  it, 
1  did  not  need,  for  the  very  first  ship  we  hailed  was  the  Pacific. 
I  paid  the  Irishmen  for  th«ir  trouble,  and  we  went  on  board.  As 
they  were  starting  from  the  vessel,  1  heard  one  soy,  "  Faith,  Pat, 
I  believe  he  is  a  Scotsman  after  aM  "  "  Well,  well,  it  docs  not 
>igiiify,"  says  the  other,  "  what  he  i» ;  he  has  done  the  fair  thlnff 
by  us,  any  how." 


"  Tut,"  said  I,  "arc  we  not  all  rdations?' 


SU'rne4 


U 


On  the  morning  of  the  3d  of  September,  the  ship  got  under 
weigh,  at  3  o'clock,  and  the  wind  being  fair,  we  were  round  the 
rock  by  5;  and  at  6,  discharged  the  pilot.  The  breeze  continu. 
ed  from  the  north-east,  and  we  had  a  fine  run.  At  7  o'clock, 
we  were  up  with  the  point  of  Ayr  ;  at  10,  at  Grcot  Ormshead ;  at 
12  we  passed  Skerries-light,  and  shaped  dur  course  to  the  south-west, 
through  St.  George's  channel.  A  vast  number  of  ships  come  out 
of  the  river  along  with  us,  but  we  hod  lost  sight  of  them  all,  ex- 
cept the  John  Bull,  a  fine  English  ship ;  she  kept  in  sight  of  us 
ail  the  way  out  of  the  channel,  although  the  Pacific  considerably 
outsailed  her.  -    '- '  ;  '      ; 

We  passed  Cape  Clear  on  the  5th,  after  which  we  had  a  series  of 
west  and  north-west  winds,  till  the  ISth,  by  which  time  we  were 
nearly  up  with  the  Western  Islands.  The  wind  then  shifted  to  the 
south-west,  and  continued  till  the  1 9th,  when  it  again  shifted  to 
north-west,  and  it  continued  to  chop  round  from  south-west  to 
north-west,  almost  incessantly ;  but  as  the  Pacific  sailed  remaik- 
ably  well  by  the  wind,  we  made  tolerable  progress,  and  by  the 
S^th,  we  were  nearly  up  with  the  Banks  of  Newfoundland.  Here  a 
phenomenon  happened,  which  1  had  never  before  observed  at  sea. 
At  3  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  we  had  a  fine  steady  breeze,  to  which 
we  were  carrying  all  sail,  and  the  ship  was  running  through  the 
water  at  the  rate  of  eight  miles  an  hour ;  when,  all  of  a  sudden, 
sho  ran  out  of  the  breeze,  and  was  becalmed  in  an  instant.  Tlie 
impulse  Continued  for  some  little  time,  and  carried  her  through  the 
nutt r  probably  about  half  a  mile ;   at  which  distance  we  could 

33 


.4:<i 


:;' i.ii 


■('.* 


v>i?na''«i 


I 


m. 


258  TRAVELS    ON 

perceive  that  the  breeze  we  had  left  was  blowing  as  strong  as  ever. 
It  is  said  that  ships  are  sometimes  situated  in  this  way  on  some 
parts  of  the  coast  of  Africa,  where  the  calms  are  frequent  and  of 
long  duration ;  and  often  accompanied  by  tremendous  storiii!>  of 
thunder  and  lightning.  By  the  25th,  we  appeared  to  be  on  the 
Banks  of  Newfoundland.  The  weather  was  foggy,  and  the  ther- 
mometer,  which,  the  day  before,  had  been  at  72°,  fell  to  56»' 
We  sounded,  but  found  no  bottom ;  indeed  we  were  nearly  at 
the  south  point,  where  the  water  is  very  deep.  On  my  former 
passage,  I  made  some  remarks  on  the  formation  of  these  banks, 
which  my  present  observations  tended  to  corroborate.  I  had  heard 
a  great  deal  of  the  fisheries  on  them;  but,  notwithstanding  I  had 
crossed  them  twice,  1  never  saw  any  thing  of  the  fishing  vessels, 
nor  did  we  take  any  fish. 

This  great  bank  is  about  330  miles  in  length,  from  south  to 
north,  and  about  75  in  breadth,  from  east  to  west.  The  depth  of 
water  on  it,  is  from  15  to  60  fathoms.  The  fishery  commences 
about  the  10th  of  May,  and  continues  till  the  end  of  September. 
The  cod  is  cured  in  two  ways ;  one  by  drying  them,  the  other  by 
putting  them  up  in  pickle.  The  fisheries  are  computed  to  yield 
upwartis  of  j£.300,000  sterling,  annually,  for  the  supply  of  the 
Catholic  countries  alone;  and  such  is  the  immense  supply  of  fish, 
that,  notwithstanding  the  annual  drain,  there  is  no  sensible  dim!* 
nution. 

After  leaving  the  banks,  we  had  a  series  of  west  and  nortli-west 
winds,  which  sent  us  beyond  the  Gulf  Stream,  and  as  far  to 
the  southward  as  the  latitude  of  37°  30',  where  we  found  the 
weather  very  warm,  the  thermometer  rising  to  78°  and  80°. 

The  weather  was  clear  and  fine,  and  the  moon  being  in  a  fa- 
vourable position,  we  had  lunar  observations  on  diflfercnt  morn- 
ings. The  result  we  found  to  be  very  correct ;  a  proof  of  the 
great  importance  of  the  application  of  astronomy  to  one  of  the 
most  useful  arts. 

The  wind  shifted  back  again  to  the  southward,  and  we  bore  a- 
way  to  the  north-west,  until  the  Cth  of  October,  when  we  tookii 
fair  wind,  which  carried  us  to  the  Jersey  shore  on  the  8tli,  40 
miles  south  of  the  light-houser  We  had  a  southerly  wind,  and 
were  running  to  the  northward,  and  would  soon  have  made  San- 
dy Hook,  but  night  came  on,  and  we  were  deceived  by  a  light, 
which  we  mistook  for  a  light-house  ;  in  consequence  of  which,  we 


y  commences 


THE  ATLANTIC   OCRAN.  259 

lay  to  for  the  night.  Next  morning,  at  day-break,  we  set  sail, 
and  soon  described'the  high  lands,  and  afterwards  the  light-house ; 
and  between  2  and  3  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  received  a  pilot. 
We  flocked  round  the  pilot  to  learn  the  news,  and  were  inform- 
ed, that  the  non-intercourse  was  ugain  enforced  by  proclamation ; 
and  that  the  American  government  were  very  much  dissatisfied 
with  the  British  for  not  executing  Mr.  Erskine's  treaty.  On  this 
subject,  however,  I  soon  found  that  there  was  a  considerable  dif- 
ference of  opinion ;  indeed,  some  of  the  American  newspapers, 
which  we  perused,  justified  the  British  government  in  every  step, 
condemning  that  of  America  and  Mr.  Erskine ;  and  one  of  our 
company,  an  American  citizen  too,  openly  avowed  that  he  could 
have  no  confidence  in  the  governnient,  unless  there  was  a  king  at 
the  head  of  it :  even  Mr.  Jefferson,  he  believed,  would  have  acted 
a  much  better  part,  had  he  been  king  of  America. 

The  passengers  were  upon  the  whole  agreeable,  and  captain 
Staunton  was  one  of  the  most  obliging  shipmasters  I  have  ever  boen 
at  sea  with.  He  was  well  provided  in  a  mate  and  good  sailors, 
and  every  thing  on  board  the  vessel  was  conducted  with  great 
propriety.  The  cabin  was  remarkably  well  furnished,  and  we 
fared  sumptuously  all  the  way. 

Having  crossed  the  bar,  we  proceeded  up  the  channel  with  a 
light  but  fair  breeze,  and  at  5  o'clock  passed  the  Narrows,  and 
stood  in  for  the  quarantine  ground.  Here  we  were  visited  by 
Lang  and  Turner,  editors  of  the  New  York  Gazette,  who  by  thei* 
indefatigable  attention  to  the  shipping  trade  of  the  port  of  New 
York,  have  deserved  well  of  their  country,  and  have  been  amply 
rewarded  by  a  very  respectable  patronage  and  support  to  their 
paper. 

Connected  with  this  establishment  is  that  of  the  JSIcrcantile  Ad- 
vertiser, the  editors  of  which  pay  one  half  of  the  expense  of  pro- 
curing the  shipping  intelligence,  and,  of  course,  receive  the  same 
information  as  the  Gazette;  and  so  attentive  are  the  parties  to  the 
business,  that  Mr.  Lang  has  a  house  at  the  quarantine  ground, 
where  he  resides  with  his  family  during  the  summer,  and  speaks 
every  vessc'  that  comes  into  port.  By  this  means  the  shipping  in- 
telligence in  the^e  two  papers  is  early  nnil  authentic,  and  they 
are  the  most  respectable  mercant  ile  registers  in  New  York. 

We  were  only  a  few  minutes  here  when  the  health  oHicer  came 
on  board,  who,  finding  all  well,  gave  us  a  bill  of  health,  and  we 


>' 


pM 


?60  TRAVELS   IN 

set  sail  up  the  bay,  and  landed  at  the  wharf  at  8  o'clock.  I  im, 
mediately  waited  upon  my  friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs,  Stewart,  from 
whom  I  had,  as  before,  a  friendly  welcome.        , 


;!!■    t 


CHAPTER  LVI. 

New  York, — Philadelphia, — Savannah. 

I  CONTINUED  in  New  York  until  the  11th  of  November, 
when,  having  some  business  to  attend  to  in  Philadelphia,  I  set 
out  for  that  city  in  the  mail  stage.  We  left  New  York  at  1 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  next  morning  at  5  o'clock  we  reach- 
ed Philadelphia,  distant  97  miles. 

My  business  here  was  in  friendly  hands,  and  I  got  it  arrancred 
to  my  satisfaction  in  a  short  time,  when  I  had  a  few  days  to  spend 
with  my  friends.  At  the  house  where  I  lodged,  a  gentleman  som^ 
times  called  to  spend  the  evenings.  My  friend  and  he  were  tw 
of  the  most  extensive  and  respectable  merchants  in  Philadelphia, 
and,  like  myself,  both  were  concerned  in  the  British  trade.  We 
agreed  in  opinion  as  to  the  utility  of  this  trade,  but  we  differed 
regarding  the  cause  of  its  interruption.  I  attributed  it  to  what  1 
considered  the  true  cause,  which  will  be  readily  inferred  from  the 
foregoing  pages ;  but  my  friends  were  inclined  to  attribute  it  to 
the  hostility  of  the  democratic  party  in  America  to  foreign  com- 
merce. Considering  this  idea  incorrect,  I  opposed  it,  which  led 
to  a  pretty  long  discussion,  in  which  I  had  occasion  to  state  the 
view  I  took  of  foreign  commerce  generally,  and  the  importance  of 
the  relations  between  America  and  Britain.  My  friends  assented 
to  the  correctness  of  my  opinion,  but  insisted  that  it  was  so  oppo- 
site to  that  of  the  democratic  party,  that,  were  I  to  draw  it  up, 
and  send  it  to  a  democratic  newspaper,  it  would  not  be  inserted, 
Considering  this  a  very  good  plan  to  bring  the  matter  to  the  test, 
I  drew  up  an  essay,  which  received  their  approbation.  It  was 
sent  to  the  Aurora,  andj  two  days  thereafter,  niude  its  appearance 
in  that  paper.*        ■  '      '  •  '-.     *'  '    \   "     '     " 

While  I  staid  at  Philadelphia,  the  negociations  with  the  Brit- 
ish minister,  Mr.  Jackson,  were  broken  off,  and  it  clearly  ap- 
peared to  me,  that  nothing  but  the  ascendancy  of  the  whig  party 

*  See  Appendix,  No.  IV.  • 


GEORGIA. 


26  L 


in  Britain  would  prevent  a  war ;  but  from  the  intelligence  which 
I  received  from  Britain,  public  and  private,  I  thought  it  extreme- 
ly probable  that  this  ascendancy  would  soon  take  place;  at  any 
rate,  I  considered  it  would  inevitably  follow  the  :  ppointment  of 
the  prince  of  Wales  as  regent,  and  that  event  was  dail^  expected. 
I  was  tfuided  by  this  view  in  my  commercial  arrangements,  and 
took  iTiy  measures  accordingly. 

From  Pliiladclphia  I  returned  to  New  York,  and  from  thence 
went  bv  sea  to  Savannah,  where  J  arrived  on  the  17th  of  Decem- 
ber, without  meeting  any  adventure  worth  recording. 

0;i  my  arrival  iu  Savannah,  I  found  matters  in  a  dreadful  state. 
Tiie  stock  of  goods  was  disassorted,  and  would  not  bring  half  the 
oii'iiial  value ;  and  the  other  fimds',  consisting  chiefly  ofoutstand- 
i!K/ debts,  ifev-Tthey  would  be  collected  at  all,  it  could  only  be 
done  at  a  labour,  expense,  and  loss  of  time,  that  would  probably 
be  greater  than  the  ultimate  value  of  them.  A  great  many  of 
them  were  in  suit,  and  the  courts  of  law  were  buspended,  so  that 
the  recovery  by  that  process  was  very  tedious  and  uncertain.  Our 
debtors  amounted  to  the  amazing  number  of  185,  and  they  were  so 
scattered  over  the  land,  that  they  occupied  a  space  of  nearly 
200  miles  square.  Some  landed  property  belonged  to  the  con- 
cern, and  some  negroes,  (a  "^p  des  of  commodity  which  I  never 
wished  to  deal  in,)  and  these  had  fallen  in  value.  We  had  also  a 
store,  220  miles  in  the  interior  of  the  country;  but  it  held  out  no 
better  prospect :  while  our  American  debts  were  large  and  urgent, 
a  great  portion  of  them  custom-house  bonds.  I  was  absolutely 
sickened  when  I  locked  into  the  books,  where  I  had  nothing  to 
contemplate  but  the  wrecks  of  a  ruined  estate,  and  the  fragments 
of  it  scattered  to  and  fro  throughout  the  land  ;  so  that  no  time 
could  be  fixed  for  its  being  eventually  wound  up.  However,  there 
was  nothing  for  it  but  to  arm  myself  with  resolution  ;  and,  after 
three  mouths  most  ardent  application,  I  got  it  reduced  to  some 
sort  of  order,  and,  liaving  made  a  new  arrangement  with  my 
partn,  V  to  carry  on  a  conmiission  business,  while  the  old  concern 
was  winding  u}>,  I  set  out  on  a  collecting  tour,  taking  in  my  way 
the  store  up  the  country.  A  few  of  the  observations  which  I  made 
on  my  journey  shall  be  communicated  in  the  next  chapter. 


■^  ^■-■bl 


'mi 


26% 


TRAVELS   IN 


CHAPTER  LVII. 


f  -I 


Savannah, — Louisville, — Greensburg, — Augusta. 

O  N  the  2(1  of  April  I  left  Savannah,  on  horseback,  at  5  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon.  A  young  gentleman  in  a  chair  accompanied  mc, 
and  we  took  the  road  to  Louisville.  The  weather  was  warm  and 
sultry.  We  travelled  18  miles  through  a  low  marshy  countn-, 
abounding  in  thick  woods,  but  having 'a  thin  population,  to 
Powell's,  and  here  we  stopped  for  the  night.  About  11  o'clock, 
there  was  a  thunder-gust  to  the  south-east ;  the  wind  shifted  to 
the  north-west,  and  the  weather  became  suddenly  cold. 

April  3d,  we  travelled  through  a  wretched  looking  country  12 
miles,  to  breakfast;  and  12  miles  further  to  dinner,  part  of  the 
way  through  pine  barrens.  The  country  was  now  a  little  more 
elevated,  but  the  soil  poor  and  sandy,  and  so  continued  20  miles, 
to  Jones',  where  we  stopped  for  the  night.  Jones  has  a  thriving 
plantation,  and  a  fine  peach  orchard. 

April  ^tlij  we  travelled  through  a  country  nearly  similar  to  that 
we  passed  yesterday,  14  miles,  when,  entering  Burke  county,  we 
met  with  more  improv.ements,  and  saw  many  fine  peach  orchards, 
and  the  trees  being  in  blossom,  formed  a  very  agreeable  contrast 
to  the  barren  wastes  around  them.  At  6  o'clock  in  the  evening, 
we  reached  Louisville,  100  miles  from  Savannah.  I  found  the 
seat  of  government  had  been  removed  to  Milledgeville ;  but  my 
friend  Dr.  Powell  still  remained  at  this  place  ;  and  I  passed  a  very 
agreeable  evening  with  his  family.  The  doctor  was  not  at  home, 
and  I  regretted  much  that  I  had  not  an  opportunity  of  thanking 
him  foi  his  kindness  and  attention  when  I  was  here  before. 

Aprils.  At  half  past  8  o'clock  we  set  out  for  Sparta.  A  mile 
frotn  Louisville,  we  passed  a  considerable  stream  called  Rocky 
Comfort,  where  there  are  a  number  of  mills ;  and  this  being  the 
boundary  between  the  high  and  low  country,  the  scenery  now 
becomes  more  variegated.  Five  miles  beyond  this  the  road  forks ; 
we  took  the  right-hand  road,  but  it  was  the  wrong  one,  and  led 
us  six  miles  out  of  our  way,  through  a  barren  country.  Th» 
country  improves  towards  the  Ogeeche  river,  which  we  crossed 
at  the  Shoals,  and  here  there  are  several  important  mills.  The 
banks  ol'the  river  are  steep  and  rocky,  and  the  soil  in  the  neigh- 


Ih  we  crosseJ 


GBORGIA. 


363 


4  Ml 


bourhood  is  pretty  fertile,  producing  wheat,  corn,  &c.  After 
crossing  the  river,  we  passed  over  vast  masses  of  rock,  and,  travel- 
line  H  miles,  we  reached  Sparta,  towards  which  the  soil  improves, 
and  there  is  a  pretty  fertile  country  round  it.      *    •  ' 

Sparta  is  a  small  town,  but  until  of  late  it  had  a  very  flourishing 
commerce,  and  a  great  deal  of  mercantile  business  was  transacted 
in  it.  It  has  now,  in  consequence  of  the  stoppage  of  foreign  com- 
merce, suffered  most  severely.  Many  of  the  merchants,  and 
co'intry  people,  cannot  pay  their  debts;  and  the  winding  up  of 
the  business,  through  the  medium  of  the  courts  of  law,  has  pro- 
duced effects  distressing  to  contemplate.  I  was  informed  that 
there  was  now  no  demand  for  British  goods  at  all ;  and  all  the 
people  were  clothing  themselves  in  homespun. 

At  Sparta  I  parteu  v.Uh  my  young  friend,  who  returned  to  Sa- 
vannah, and  I  went  further  up  the  country  to  Greensburg.    Meet- 
ing with  a  countryman  who  kept  a  tavern  about  half-way,  I  avail- 
ed rayself  of  his  company,  and  lodged  at  his  house  during  the 
night.    My  fellow-traveller,    who  was   very  communicative,    told 
me  that  the  country  in  this   district  was  healthy,    and  the  lands 
generally  good.     The  price  of  land  uncleared,  was  from  two  to 
live  dollars  per  acre.     On  reaching  the  house,  T  found  his  family 
i  all  busily  employed  in  manufacturing,  and  they  showed  me  a  num- 
!  ber  of  the  articles,  which  were  very  good,  some  of  them  handsome. 
i  They  told   me  that,  besides  supplying  the  family,  they  made  a 
considerable  quantity  of  goods  for  <  ale. 

April  7.     The  morning  being  I  dutiful,  I  started  at  day-light, 
!  and  travelled  through  a  very  pleasant  country,  13  miles,  to  Greens- 
burg.    The  soil  is  good,  and  abounds  with  a  species  of  timber, 
called  dog- woor,  which  bears   a  white  flower,  and  being  now  in 
jiull  blossom,  the  woods  formed  a  most  beautiful  appearance.     The 
[noith-west  wind,  which  commenced  on   the  2d,   contniued  until 
now,  and  the  vveather  was  healthy  and  delightful. 

Greensburg  is  a  handsome  town,  containing  about  200  inhabi- 
[tants,  and  is  improving ;  but  the  mercantile  business  is  in  a  very 

ill  state.    The  country  is  handsome  round  it,  and  the  situation 

<  elevated  und  healthy. 

At  12  o'clock,  noon,  I  set  out  for  Mount  Vcrnojiy  in  the  new 
purchase,  where  our  country  store  was  situated  22  miles  from 
^reonsburs^.  Eight  milc:»  from  Greensburg,  through  a  pretty 
bod,  but  tliinly-scttlod  country,  is  the  Oconee  rivur,  and  ihrue 


'^1    si.*  '\       ' 


f; 


iL  li 


'.  J 


264 


TRAVELS    IN 


miles  beyond  this,  through  a  country  nearly  similar,  is  the  Appa- 
lachy.  These  two  rivers  are  very  fine  streams,  and  1  passed  both 
by  boats.  From  the  Appalachy  to  Mount  Vernon,  I  travelled  11 
miles  in  the  new  purchase,  and  I  was  really  surprised  to  obane 
the  number  of  settlements  that  had  been  made  in  the  short  space 
of  four  years.  The  greater  part  of  the  lots  were  disposed  oi\  and 
I  was  hardly  ever  out  of  sight  of  a  plantation.  The  surface  of 
the  country  is  agreeably  uneven,  abounding  in  springs  and  smaO 
rivulets,  and,  from  the  appearance  of  the  people,  I  have  no  doubt 
but  the  country  is  very  healthy.      ^rih>  iu  •■    i  :'i:'ii.ii,    . 

I  spent  several  days  in  this  place,  on  one  of  which  I  went  to 
Madison,  the  county-town,  six  miles  from  Mount  Vernon.  This 
was  laid  out  only  a  year  before,  yet  it  is  now  a  thriving  place, 
having  p  court-house,  a  number  of  dweUing-houses,  three  taverns, 
and  as  many  stores. 

On  the  15th  of  April,  I  left  this  district,  on  my  return  to 
Greensburg,  On  my  arrival  there,  I  found  the  inhabitants  in  ii 
state  of  alarm.  Advice  had  just  been  received,  that  a  letter  had 
been  found  in  the  state  of  Virginia,  dated  from  Greensburg, 
stating  that  all  was  ready  in  Georgia,  and  recommending  prompt 
measures  to  be  pursued  in  executing  the  work  in  Virginia.  It  was 
presumed  that  the  work  alluded  to  was  the  assassination  of  the 
white  people.  The  alarm  being 'given,  it  had  spread  through  the 
country  in  all  directions ;  and  the  people  had  adopted  mcasurej 
of  precaution.  At  this  place  the  guards  paraded  the  streets  all 
nijjht. 

On  the  16th,  at  12  o'clock,  I  left  Greensburg  for  Augusta,  ac- 
companied by  a  doctor  of  medicine,  a  very  intelligent  gentleman, 
who  lived  16  miles  below  Greensburg.  While  we  travelled  to- 
gether we  had  a  good  deal  of  conversation  regarding  the  present 
alarm  in  the  country,  concerning  which  we  made  inquiry  at  all 
the  settlements  we  passed,  and  of  all  the  people  we  saw.  ^Ve 
found  that  some  of  them  were  a  good  deal  alarmed  ;  others  con- 
sidered that  there  was  no  danger;  and  some  ridiculed  tlio  wliolc 
as  an  idle  tale.  But  they  all  thought  there  was  a  propriety  in 
taking  measures  of  precaution. 

I  was  satisfied,  upon  the  whole,  that  the  alarm  was  greater  dian 
the  danger;  and  that  there  never  can  be  a  successful  organization 
of  the  black  people  against  the  whites,  upon  a  large  scale,  i» 
Georgia;  nor  indeed  in  any  part  of  the  United  States.    A  short 


GEORGIA.  265 

glance  at  the  subject  may  be  useful,  because  I  found  that  it  was 
generally  supposed  in  Britain,  that  the  southern  states  would  be 
eventually  destroyed  in  this  way. 

By  the  census  of  1800,  I  find  that  all  the  slaves  north  of  the 
state  of  Delaware^  amount  to  only  135,516;  being  such  a  small 
proportion  to  the  white  inhabitants,  that  they  can  have  no  influ> 
ence ;  and  as  a  gradual  abolition  is  going  on,  the  proportion  in 
diminishing  every  year. 

In  those  states  where  slavery  exists  in  full  force,  the  relative  num- 
bers, in  ]  800,  stood  as  in  the  following  table  : 


Free  Persoiis. 

Slaves. 

Delaware 

58,130 

6,143 

Maryland 

24.1,985 

107,707 

Virginia 

534,396 

345,796 

Kentucky 

180,602 

40,343 

N.  Carolina 

334,807 

133,296 

S.  Carolina 

199,34-0 

146,151 

Georgia 

102,989 

59,699 

Tennessee 

92,018 

13,584 

1,744,267 


852,699 


From  this  table  it  appears  that  the  free  people  outnumber  the 
slaves  about  two  to  one ;  and  we  cannot  suppose  that  ever  the  pro- 
portion on  the  side  of  the  slaves  will  be  greater  than  it  is  now,  more 
especially  when  we  consider  that  all  importation  has  ceased. 
Hence  the  mere  physical  strength  is  above  two  to  one  on  the 
side  of  the  white  people ;  and  those  who  possess  any  degree  of  intel- 
ligence among  the  negroes  are  fully  aware  of  this,  and  must  know 
that  any  attempt  at  insurrection  would  end  in  tticir  own  destruction. 
It  is  only  by  men  of  intelligence  among  them.  Heading  an  insurrec- 
tion, that  *hey  could  have  any  chance  at  all. 

Uut,  in  the  next  place,  the  whole  artificial  strength  of  the  country 
is  in  the  hands  of  the  white  people ;  and  when  we  consider  that  a 
single  despot,  at  the  head  of  a  band  ot  armed  men,  comparatively 
few,  can  rule  a  whole  country  with  a  rod  of  iron,  we  can  calculate 
wbat  elTect  an  attempt  on  the  part  of  one  third  of  a  nation  in  a  state 
of  slavery,  without  arms,  without  ammunition,  without  eJucation, 
or  the  power  of  holding  conversation  with  one  another  by  writiiifj ; 

3t 


5^•l^.•r  < 


^ea 


TRAVELS    IN 


we  can  calculate  what  effect  an  attempt  on  their  part  would  have 
to  destroy  the  other  two  thirds,  who  have  every  advantage  that  tU 
others  want. 

It  has  been  supposed  that  the  slaves  could  organize  a  plan  to  as. 
sassinate  the  white  people,  and  to  perform  the  wiiolc  in  one  niglt. 
The  thin^  is  impossible.  No  plan  of  this  kind  can  be  organized  on 
a  large  scale  without  detection;  and  the  power  to  organize  suciu 
plan  by  the  slaves  in  these  states,  is  so  limited  as  hardly  to  merit 
notice.  Besides  all  this,  there  is  probably  hardly  a  family  in  the 
United  States  where  there  is  not  one  or  more  of  the  slaves  attached 
to  them  from  some  personal  consideration.  The  women,  in  parti- 
cular, are  a  great  many  of  them  employed  in  the  capacity  of  domes- 
tic servants,  and  some  of  them  are  as  much  in  the  confidence  of  their 
mistresses  as  ladie»'  maids  are  in  England ;  others  have  nursed  the 
children  ;  and  the  whole  have  less  or  more  associated  with  the  white 
children  when  young.  These  are  all  so  many  ties  of  affection,  which 
but  a  small  majority  among  the  negroes,  I  believe,  would  be  wil- 
ling to  break  in  order  to  organize  rebellion ;  and  it  will  be  perceiv- 
ed that  a  single  discovery,  by  one  slave,  leads  to  a  detection  ofa 
whole  plot. 

But  indeed  it  appears  to  me  that  the  blacks  are  in  general  a  good- 
natured,  well  disposed,  peaceable  people;  and  nothing  but  ill  usage, 
so  extreme  as  to  drive  them  to  a  state  of  desperation,  could  ever 
bring  about  any  general  plan  for  the  assassination  of  the  white  people. 
There  may  be  particular  local  circumstances  of  revolt ;  but  none  1$ 
ever  to  be  apprehended  of  a  nature  sufficient  to  endanger  the  safe- 
ty of  the  southern  states,  or  of  any  one  individual  state. 

Having  travelled  30  miles  through  a  pretty  pleasant  country,  I 
arrived  in  the  evening  at  Washington,  which  is  a  pleasant  little 
town,  containing  about  100  houses ;  and  the  fields  in  its  neighbour- 
hood arc  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation, 

April  17th.  1  left  Washington  at  day-light,  and  at  ten  reached 
Ray's  mills,  a  handsome  settlement  on  a  considerable  stream  of  wa- 
ter. Having  some  little  business  to  transact  here,  I  stopped  all  day. 
'Hie  people  in  the  Ikhisc  where  I  lodged  had  a  very  fxiciibive  ma- 
nufactory of  homespun ;  and  they  were  all  substantially  clad  in  cot- 
ton cloth  of  their  own  manufacture,  some  of  it  elegant. 

On  the  18th  I  travelled  16  miles,  through  a  pretty  good  ooiintrv, 
to  Columbia  Court- House,  a  small  place,  handsomely  situated, 'i2 
miles  west  from  Augusta, 


GEORGIA. 


267 


On  the  I9th  I  travelled  through  a  country  nearly  similar  to  that 
I  passed  through  the  day  betbre ;  towards  Augusta  the  soil  is  good, 
and  the  country  improves  in  appearance,  being  in  a  high  state  of 
cultivation.  I  reached  Augusta  at  twelve  o'clock,  and,  being  a  place 
I  always  admired,  1  stopped  here  some  days. 

One  of  my  first  calls  was  on  my  old  friend  the  Major,  with  whom 
I  travelled  from  New  York  to  Boston,  four  years  before ;  and  we 
fcpent  a  few  hours  together,  in  which  we  recounted  our  adventures 
on  Long  Island  sound.  The  gentleman  with  whom  I  lodged  having 
a  taste  for  natural  philosophy,  chemistry,  and  mechanics,  I  had  al- 
ways a  rich  intellectual  feast  on  my  return  to  my  lodgings. 

I  left  Augusta  on  the  26th  for  Richmond  springs,  where  I  saw  my 
old  friend  the  poet,  ond  his  sable  mistress,  with  whom  I  lodged  two 
days,  and  then  passed  over  to  Waynesborough,  where  being  hospi- 
tably entertained  a  few  days  by  some  very  respectable  planters  in 
that  neighbourhood,  I  set  out  for  Savannah  on  the  Sd  of  May,  in 
company  with  two  very  agreeable  friends,  and  arrived  on  the  5th 
at  noon. 

During  this  journey  to  the  upper  country,  I  made  every  inquiry 
that  I  could  regarding  the  state  of  its  commercial  concerns,  and  I 
was  satisfied  that  it  had  undergone  a  great  revolution  since  I  was 
in  the  country  before.  The  staple  commodity  of  the  state  is  cotton, 
and  it  had  so  fallen  in  value  as  to  cut  ofFupwards  of  one  third  of  the 
income  of  the  country.  It  followed  that  the  inhabitants  must  cur- 
tail their  expenditure  in  proportion,  I  accordingly  found  that  all 
tlie  people  in  the  interior  of  the  country  were  clothed  in  homespun. 
In  almost  every  family  a  cotton  manufactory  was  to  be  seen,  and  in 
some  instances  they  had  introduced  spinning  upon  a  pretty  large 
scale,  by  jennies.  At  a  parade  of  the  militia,  at  Augusta,  I  was  told 
that  out  of  500  men  only  two  were  to  be  found  who  had  a  single 
article  of  British  manufacture  about  them.  It  had  become  fashion- 
able every  where  to  wear  homespun ;  and  from  the  very  substantial 
stuif  the  people  were  making,  amd  the  agreeable  employment  it  af- 
forded to  the  young  women  of  the  country,  I  was  convinced  that 
this  trade  would  encrease,  probably  to  nearly  the  total  exclusion  of 
British  <roods  from  the  state.  This  was  fur  from  being  flattering  to 
I  me;  and  the  commission  business,  in  which  wc  had  embarked,  was 
I  much  arfected  by  the  low  price  of  cotton,  and  the  general  dull  state 
|t<  trade.  Having,  therefore,  very  little  to  do,  I  confided  the  busi- 
'itij  to  the  management  of  my  partner,  and  set  out  for  the  northern 
1 5ta  e>,  by  way  of  Charleston. 


'<•  ■■'  tA': 


Mi  ■ 


S"'  ^' 


m 


am 


TRAVELS    IN 


CHAPTER  LVIIl. 

Charlestun, — New  Yorlf — Philadelphia^ — Statcn  Island. 

On  the  9th  of  June  I  left  Savannal.,  with  my  old  friend,  captain 
Cooper,  in  the  Delight.  The  weather  was  exceedingly  sultry,  mid 
we  hatl  a  light  southerly  bree/x*  down  the  river,  but  we  were  fiivour' 
ed  by  tlu  tide,  and  got  to  sea  before  dark,  when  a  fine  breeze  sprung 
up,  and  we  reached  Charleston  light-house  by  day-light.  At  8 
o'clock,  we  landed  in  the  city. 

Here  I  was  invited  to  lodge  with  a  friend,  which  was  a  fortunate 
circumstance,  for  I  had  been  but  a  short  time  in  the  city  wlicn  I 
was  seized  with  a  fever;  but  by  timely  attention  and  good  nursing 
I  got  clear  of  it  in  the  course  of  a  few  days. 

During  my  stay  here  I  went  to  see  Sullivan's  Island :  in  our  way 
we  passed  the  fortifications,  where  considerable  repairs  and  .tl'ira. 
tions  had  taken  place;  and  it  was  presumed  the  harbour  was  now 
in  a  very  respectable  state  of  defence.  Sullivan's  Island  is  an  excel- 
lent summer  retreat,  and  is  open  on  all  sides  to  the  sea  brtx  /o,  so 
that  it  is  entirely  free  from  every  vestige  of  marsh  or  putrid  cflliivia, 
and  consequently  from  all  epidemical  sickness. 

On  Sunday,  the  17th  June,  I  went  on  board  the  Eliza,  captain 
Leslie,  for  New  York.  This  was  a  very  handsome  vessel,  r»r.  ark- 
ably  well  found  in  every  respect,  and  she  was  on  this  occasion  crowd- 
ed with  passengers,  having  no  less  than  24".  On  crossing  the  bar  we 
put  to  sea  with  a  north-east  wind,  which  sent  us  a  considerable  way 
to  the  south  of  our  course;  and  after  being  beat  about  with  head 
winds  for  several  days,  we  took  a  heavy  gale  from  the  south-east, 
which  nearly  put  us  ashore  on  Cape  Look-out  shoals.  The  gale 
subsided,  but  we  had  still  head  winds  until  the  26th,  when  near 
Cape  Hatteras,  we  took  a  fair  wind,  which  carried  us  into  New 
York  on  the  30th. 

Nothing  material  occurred  in  this  city  until  the  4th  of  July,  wiien 
tlie  anniversary  of  independence  was  celebrated  with  great  splendor, 
and  was  equally  attended  to  by  both  the  political  parties.  The  fe- 
deral procession  consisted  principally  of  the  Washington  and  Ha- 
milton Societies,  in  number  700  or  800 ;  that  of  the  republicans  was 
composed  of  the  Tammany  Society,  Manhattan  Society,  and  the  dif- 
ferent trader'  societies  in  the  eity.     The  processions  were  conduct- 


*NEW   YORK.  269 

cil  respectively  to  difforont  churches,  whero,  after  prnycr,  the  ilc- 
clgration  of  indepcrnlcucc  was  read,  and  an  oration  tlclivercd,  ac- 
companied with  several  pieces  of  appropriate  vocal  and  instrunipn- 

tul  music.  '     . 

Au  outward  display  of  great  festivity  was  exhibited  all  over  the 
citv,  by  firing  guns,  ringing  bells,  with  military  and  other  proces- 
sions ;  and  the  evening  was  spent  generally  in  a  social  manner,  by 
different  societies  and  private  circles.  In  every  jwirty  they  had  a  re- 
.rular  series  of  17  toasts,  one  lor  each  state,  and  a  numl)er  of  volun- 
teer toa-'ts  from  the  company.  These  toasts  were  very  sentimental, 
anil  may  be  considered  as  a  very  good  barometer  for  discovering  the 
particular  political  opinions  of  the  party. 

Having  no  particular  business  in  the  city,  I  went  to  live  a  few 
weeks  on  Long  Island,  which  is  a  delightful  summer  residence. 
During  this  time  I  took  a  jaunt  as  far  as  Jamaica,  a  pretty  little  vil- 
lage, V2,  miles  to  the  eastward  of  New  York,  and  by  the  finest  road 
1  had  yet  seen  in  America.  The  .settlements  by  the  way  are  very 
handsome,  and  some  of  the  buildings  are  elegant.  A  number  of  ve- 
ry respectable  inhabitants,  some  of  whom  are  merchants  of  New 
York,  reside  in  Jamaica;  and  it  has  a  seminary  for  education,  es- 
teemed one  of  the  best  in  the  state.  The  country  round  is  very 
pleasant,  and  to  the  north  is  a  ridge  of  hills  from  whence  there  is  a 
very  fine  view  of  the  adjacent  country,  and  a  considerable  distance 
out  at  sea.  Having  spent.a  day  at  this  place,  I  returned  in  the  e- 
vening  by  Newtown,  a  pleasant  little  village  near  East  river.  In 
the  whole  circuit  I  found  the  sides  of  the  road  clad  with  fruit-trees, 
and  the  crops  of  fruit  very  abundant. 

About  this  time  I  fell  in  with  a  gentleman  from  Scotland*   who 
was  in  expectation  of  a  considerable  quantity  of  goods  in  the  fall, 
and  wc  agreed  to  transact  business  together  during  that  season, 
with  a  view  of  a  more  permanent  connexion,  if  the  trade  continu- 
ed open.    Having,    previous   to  this,    determined  to  remain  in 
Americir,  I  had  written  to  my  family,  and  expected  them  early  in 
jthefal;;  and,  in  order  to  receive  them,  I  took  lodgings  atthequa^ 
t  rantiue  ground,  on  Staten  Island ;  and  having  stationed  my  son  in 
j  our  new  lodgings,  I  accompanied  two  of  our  New  York  friends  to 
[Philadelphia. 

We  travelled  by  the  mail  stage,  and  were  determined  to  be. 
I  merry.  One  of  our  members,  being  a  limb  of  the  law,  made  some 
h'ery  auiraatcd  dissertations,    legal,  logical,  moral  and  critical,  to 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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23  WIST  MAIN  STIIET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14SS0 

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270 


TnAVKLS   IN 


the  great  edification  of  the  company.  A  young  Englishman  mam". 
fcsted  his  national  feelings,  by  assuring  us  of  the  great  demand  for 
Ilenglish  goods  at  ome  ;  and  expatiated  on  the  unimportance  of  the 
American  trade ;  but  some  of  us  knew  better.  However,  he  was  s 
pleasant  coiDpanion,  and  joined  in  our  amusements  with  much 
satisfaction. 

In  the  course  of  our  journey,  we  encountered  a  stage  full  of 
pcoj)lc,  some  of  whom,  Ave  were  informed,  had  been  at  a  camp 
meeting;  and  a  preacher  from  New  York,  who  had  some  tiniel)c. 
fore  been  interdicteil  by  the  corporation  from  disturbing  the  ])caco 
of  that  city  by  his  eccentricities,  sat  ill  the  front  of  the  cuniage. 
A  good  many  witticisms  were  passed  on  this  circinnstance,  juul  on 
the  nature  of  camp  meetings,  and  the  facility  with  which  certain 
members  of  the  community  could  accommodate  themselves  with 
partners,  and  soforth.  This  occasioned  a  good  deal  of  laughter  in 
both  stages ;  but  the  zealous  manf  retaining  all  his  gravity,  asiiurcd 
us  there  would  be  no  laughter  in  hell.  It  was  one  of  those  quaint 
remarks  which  excites  no  novel  idea ;  but  yet  it  produced  much 
merriment,  a  proof  that  there  is  a  time  for  all  things  under  the  snn; 
and  assuredly  serious  allusions  to  the  place  just  mentioned  do  not 
suit  a  stage-travelling  audience. 

I  laving  arrived  in  Philadelphia  without  further  accident  than  the 
loss  of  a  hat,  ^  remained  in  that  fine  city  some  days,  and  returned 
by  the  steam  boat  line. 

This  being  the  first  time  I  travelled  by  the  steam  boat,  it  furnish- 
ed much  subject  for  remark.  The  extent  of  the  works,  the  mag- 
nitude of  the  waters  over  which  we  had  tc  travel,  the  scenery  on 
the  land,  the  order  and  economy  on  board  the  boats  and  in  the 
over-land  stages,  all  excited  my  admiration ;  and  this  being  a  route 
very  much  travelled,  it  may  be  gratifying  to  go  a  little  into  detail, 
by  a  short  sketch  of  the  journey. 

We  went  on  board  the  steam  boat,  in  the  Deloware  river,  at  7 
o'clbck  in  the  morning.  The  boat  immediately  started  from  the 
wharf,  and  moved  majestically  through  the  water,  at  the  rate  of  7 
miles  an  hour.  As  the  boat  was  perfectly  ^asy  in  lirr  motion,  I 
had  a  good  opportunity  of  examining  her  works,  and  of  observ- 
ing the  application  of  them  to  produce  motion  in  the  boat.  The  I 
engine  was  constructed  on  Bolton  and  Watt's  j)lan,  and  the  jwwer 
was  communicated  through  the  medium  of  a  walking  beam  of  a 
peculiar  construction,    adapted  to  the  boat,   and  from  thence  to 


stage  full  of 
en  at  a  camp 
5mc  timel)c- 
ng  the  peace 
the  carriage. 
iincc,  anil  on 
vhich  certain 
jpiselvcs  with 
if  laugliter  in 
avity,  assured 
f  those  quaint 
oduced  much 
under  the  sun; 
ntioned  do  not 


PENNSYLVANIA.  2?  I 

wheels  on  each  side,  somethhig  like  mill  wheels,  which,  by  a  rota- 
tory motion  through  the  water,  impelled  the  boat  the  contrary  way, 
producing  precisely  the  same  effect  as  oars.  The  boat  was  suili- 
ciently  capacious  to  carry  100  passengers,  and  was  furnished  with 
every  requisite  for  boarding  and  lodging,  that  could  be  obtained  in 
a  good  tavern. 

By  this  conveyance  we  travelled  to  Bordentown,  a  delightful 
liiuation,  30  miles  from  Philadelphia.  Here  we  were  accommo- 
Jatetl  with  stages,  which  conveyed  us  across  Jersey,  36  miles,  to 
New  Brunswick,  where  we  stopped  all  night. 

Next  morning  we  set  out  at  6  o'clock,  by  another  steam  boat,  for 
New  York.  This  boat  was  much  larger  than  that  on  the  Delaware, 
and  her  steam  works  were  somewhat  different  in  the  construction, 
but  the  principle  was  precisely  the  same.  We  sailed  along  the 
Rariton  with  great  majesty,  and  arriving  at  Perth  Amboy,  we  took 
in  some  passengers,  when  we  took  n  course  through  a  narrow  arm 
of  the  sea,  that  runs  between  Staten  Island  and  the  Jersey  shore. 

Having  no  particular  business  at  New  York  till  the  fall  goods 
would  arrive,  I  landed  at  Staten  Island,  which  I  found  to  be  a 
most  agreeable  place   in  the  summer    season.      The  quarantine 
ground  is  handsomely  situated,    on  the  east  side  of  the  island,  on  a 
small  bay,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  above  the  narrows.      The  land 
here  rises  boldly  from  the  shore,  and  is  perfectly  healthy.     A  con- 
siderable piece  of  ground  is  enclosed  for  the  health  offices  ;  and  the 
health  oiRcer,  and  his  assistant,  reside  within  the  enclosure*     Con- 
ti(;uous  to  it  an  officer  of  the  the  customs  resides ;   and  in  the 
neighbourhood  area  number  of  respectable  families.  Mr.  Lang,  for- 
merly mentioned,  anil  his  family,  reside  here  in  the  summer  season. 
There  was,  upon  the  whole,  a  very  social  circle  at  this  place,  em- 
bellished by  a  number  of  handsome  young  ladies;  and  we  had  many 
aiireeable  partici.     Oin-  society   was  often  augmented  by  visitors 
liom  New  York,  and  strangers  arriving  at  the  quari^ntine  ground  ; 
[10  diat  the  variety  of  sentiment  among  us,  religious  and  political, 
as  in  proportion  to  our  numbers;  biu  it  never  interfered  with  our 
iul  harmony.     Religion  and  politics  are  two  of  the  most  im- 
rtant  concerns  of  mankind; — the  one  embracing  his  interests 
low,  and  the  other  hereafter;   and  in  proportion  as  people  feel 
lively  interest  in  both,  they  will  become  the  topics  of  cQnversa- 
iion.    «  Out  of  the  abundance  of  the  heart  the  mouth  speaketh." 
utthoy  are  subjects  which  admit  of  a  great  variety  of  sentiment^ 


) 


27^  TnAVELS    IN 

and  on  which  mankind  will  never  think  alike.  Hence  it  is  of  im. 
portnncc  that  thry  be  discussed  temperately,  and  with  deference  to 
the  feelings  of  each  other.  One  of  the  most  important  circum. 
stances  in  discussing  them,  is  to  avoid  all  personal  abuse,  more 
especially  of  public  characters.  In  a  popular  government,  no 
man  can  be  appointetl  to  a  public  station,  without  having  tlic  voice 
of  a  majority  in  his  favour,  real  or  implied.  To  call  him  names, 
therefore,  and  to  load  him  with  all  manner  of  reproaches,  is  jun 
to  abuse,  at  second  hand,  those  who  have  appointed  him,  of  whom 
your  political  antagonist  may  be  one.  It  is  often  so  viewed,  and 
anger  and  strife  ensue;  and  thus,  a  discussion  that,  properly 
managed,  might  be  conducive  to  promote  knowletlge  and  informs. 
tion,  becomes  often  the  means  of  raising  the  whirlwind  of  passiou, 
and  of  destroying  the  peace  of  society. 


CHAPTER  LIX. 

New  Yorky — Comma- cial  Viascs. 

Jl  HE  expected   goods  arrived  early  in  the  fall,  and  in  greater 
quantity  than  was  at  first  calculated  on,  and  there  was  a  very  good 
fall  trade,  so  that  I  was  pretty    busily  employed  in  New  York,  till 
the  month  of  November,  when  I  was  delighted  by  the  safe  arrival 
of  my  family.     I  was  now  most  anxious  to  settle  in  New  York,  in  a 
mercantile  capacity,  and  there  seemed  to  be  a  considerable  proba- 
bility that  1  would  be  able  to  accomplish  that  object.     The  nego- 
ciations  between  Am«rica  and  Britain  were  continued,  nnd  had 
been  so  long  protracted,  that  I  was  inclined  to  think  all  interrup- 
tions would  be  done  away.     Indeed  the  American  government  I 
placed  her  foreign  relations  on  a  footing  by  which  the  Englitli 
ministry  could  get  an  ascendancy  over  France  on  terms  so  easy. 
that,  shaken   as  my  confidence  in  them  was,  I  could  not  ima|rinc 
but  that  they  would  embrace  it.     America  had  opened  licr  tradd 
to  both  belligerents,  accompanied  by  a  declaration,    that  on  m\ 
one  of  them   withdrawing  their  unjust  edicts,  so  far  as  they  inter- 
fered with  her  neutrality,  she  would  imn>cdiately  enforce  the  non- 
intercourse  act  against  the  other.     Both  parties  had  exprcsscil  tiid 
utmost  good-will  towards  America,  and  asserted  that  the  eilictil 
weie  only  meant  to  annoy  the  trade  of  each  other;  alleging tlutl 


MIW    YORK. 


273 


America  could  not  reasonably  complain  that  it  accidctttaUif  inter- 
fered with  her  trade,  as  she  had  not  set  up  the  proper  resistance, 
it  was  impossible  that  America  could  set  up  a  resititance  to  both, 
in  any  other  way  than  by  withdrawing  from  the  ocean  altogether, 
which  was  a  resistance  that  might  be  made,  and  had  been  made  for 
a  time;  but  it  could  not  be  endured  for  ever.  It  was  a  sacrifice 
without  an  object ;  she  could  in  that  case  have  no  trade.  8hc 
tbercforc  came  to  the  resolution  of  resisting  any  one  of  them,  on 
getting  the  freedom  of  the  seas  restored,  as  far  as  it  had  been  ob- 
structed, by  the  other.  How  eagerly  then  would  a  wise  ministry 
have  seized  this  opportunity  of  cultivating  the  friendship  of  a  great 
and  growing  nation,  whose  trade  is  of  such  importance  to  Britain ; 
and  of  putting  their  deadly  enemy  in  the  wrung  in  the  face  of  the 
whole  world  !  But  the  sincerity  of  the  British  ministry  was  now 
brought  to  the  test,  and  Bonaparte,  as  usual,  triumphed  over  them 
and  the  nation.  The  French  minister,  Champagny,  intimated  to 
the  American  minister  at  Paris,  that  the  decrees  were  withdrawn, 
in  these  terms :  "The  decrees  of  Berlin  and  Milan  are  revoked, 
and  they  will  cease  to  be  in  force  from  the  1st  of  November  next, 
it  being  understood  that,  in  consequence  of  this  declaration,  the 
English  shall,  as  they  have  declared  they  would,  revoke  their  or- 
ders in  council,  and  renounce  the  principles  of  blockade  which 
they  have  attempted  to  establish,  or  that  the  United  States,  con- 
formably to  the  act  of  congress  you  have  just  communicated,  shall 
cause  their  rights  to  be  res|iected  by  the  English." 

This  was  officially  announced  by  the  president's  proclamation  of 
the  2d  of  November;  and,  no  corresponding  act  having  taken 
place  in  England,  the  non-intercourse  act  wus  put  in  force  against 
that  country ;  and  thus  again  were  my  coninierciul  arrangements 
defeated. 

In  the  mean  time  I  had  kept  up  an  intercourse  with  my  partner 
in  Savannah,  and  from  a  supposition  that  some  business  might  be 
done  between  that  port  and  New  York,  we  tried  the  experiment 
by  a  small  shipment  from  each ;  but  they  were  both  unsuccessful, 
and  I  was  satisfied  that  while  the  restrictions  were  continued,  no 
beneficial  trade  could  be  carried  on,  at  least  by  us,  between  these 
two  ports.  Indeed  I  was  tired  of  the  Savannah  trade  altogether, 
I  and  anxiously  wished  for  an  opportunity  to  get  entirely  clear  of  it. 

But  matters  did  not  yet  appear  entirely  hopeless  with  Englond. 
llic  president  stated  in  his  message  to  congress,  that,  "  To  a  coni- 

35 


.  t> 


'.r 


274  TRAVELS   IN 

tnuuication'from  our  minister  at  London  of  the  revocation  of  the 
Berlin  and  Milan  decrees,  it  was  answered,  that  the  British  tyitm 
would  be  relincjuished  as  soon  as  the  repeal  of  tl>e  French  decree 
should  have  actually  taken  effect,  and  the  commerce  of  neutral  natiotii 
liavc  been  restored  to  the  condition  in  which  it  stood  previously  to 
the  promulgation  of  those  decrees^  This  pledge, ,  although  it  does 
not  necessarily  import,  does  not  exclude  the  intention  ofrelin* 
quishing  along  with  the  orders  in  council,  the  practice  of  those 
novel  blockade^;,  which  have  a  like  effect  of  interrupting  our  fo- 
reign commerce.  And  this  further  justice  to  the  United  iStatesu 
the  rather  to  be  looked  for,  inasmuch  as  the  blockade  in  question, 
being  not  more  contrary  to  the  established  law  of  nations,  than 
inconsistent  with  the  rules  of  trade  recognised  by  Great  Britain 
liersclf,  could  have  no  legal  basis,  other  than  the  plea  of  rctaliatiuu 
alleged  as  the  basis  of  the  orders  in  council." 

It  was  started  in  a  subsequent  part  of  the  message,  indeed,  that. 
"  On  tl>e  other  important  subjects  depending  between  the  United 
States  and  that  government,  no  progress  has  been  made  from 
which  an  early  and  satisfactory  result  could  be  relied  on ;"  yet  1 
considered  there  was  still  a  ppbability  of  the  trade  being  opened. 
1  thought  the  ministry  would  not  surely  be  so  mad  as  to  persevere 
in  a  system  which  went  to  preclude  the  valuable  manufactures  ot' 
the  country  from  a  market  to  the  extent  of  ten  or  twelve  niilloib 
sterling  annually ;  and  I  went  on  making  my  arrangements  to  act 
as  an  agent  fur  some  British  manufacturers,  in  which  I  had  a  pro- 
spect of  excellent  connexions. 

In  following  up  my  plan  relative  to  this  branch,  I  was  naturally 
led  to  inquire  into  the  state  of  the  internal  manufactures  of  the 
country,  and  I  was  astonished  to  observe  the  rapid  progress  which 
they  had  made  in  the  course  of  a  few  years,  and  the  groat  extent 
to  which  they  had  risen. 

By  the  secretary  of  the  treasury's  report,  which  was  only  in 
part,  it  appeared,  that  "  the  following  nuumfactures  are  carried 
on  to  an  extent  which  may  be  considered  adequate  to  the  supply 
of  the  United  States.      ,       ■'  i  -  v,- 

Wooden  articles  of  every  kind. 

Leather,  and  articles  of  leather.  ^  ,      ,_  ^ 

Soap,  and  tallow  candles.  .  ,     ^^ 

Spermaceti  oil  and  candles*  / 

Flaxseed  oil.  i 


.•'' 


; ' 


KEW   YORK. 


275 


Refined  sugar. 

Coarse  earthen  ware. 

SnaflT,  cliocolatc,  hair-powder,  and  mustard. 
"  TTic  following  branches  are  firmly  established,  supplying  the 
.treatcr  part  of  the  consumption  of  the  United  States 

Iron,  and  articles  of  iron. 

Cotton,  wool,  flax,  and  hemp. 

Hats  and  straw  bonnets. 

Paper,  printing  types,  printed  books,  playing  cards. 

Spirituous  and  malt  lir|uors. 

Wax  candles. 
«  Progress  has  been  made  in  the  following  branches. 

Paints  and  colours. 

Chemical  preparations,  and  medicinal  drugs. 

SalU 

Copper  and  brass. 

Japanned  and  plated  ware. 

Queen's  and  other  earthen  ware. 

Glass  ware,  &c.  &c. 
"  Many  other  articles,  on  wiiicli  no  information  has  been  re- 
ceived, are  undoubtedly  omitted." 

The  report  goes  on  to  state  the  outlines  of  the  information  re- 
ceived on  the  respective  branches,  all  of  which  is  exceedingly  im- 
portant ;  but  I  shall  only  make  a  few  extracts,  relative  to  some  of 
the  most  prominent  article*. 

*•  Cotton,  Wooly  and  Flax, 


^    <   < 


♦ 


cs  are  tar 


"  The  first  cotton  mill  was  erected  in  the  state  of  Rhode  I:^ 
hind,  in  the  year  1791,  another  in  the  same  state,  in  the  yeajr 
1795;  and  two  more  in  the  state  of  Massachussets,  in  the  years 
1803  and  1804.  During  the  three  succeeding  years,  ten  more 
were  erected  in  Rhode  Island,  and  one  in  Connecticut,  making 
idtogether  15  mills,  erected  before  the  year  1808,  woi'king  at  that 
time  about  8000  spindles,  and  producing  about  300,000lbs.  of 
yarn  a-year. 

"  Returns  have  been  received  of  87  mills,  which  were  erected  at 
the  end  of  the  year  1809;  62  of  which  (48  water  and  14  horse 
mills)  were  in  operation,  and  worked  at  that  time  31,000  spindles. 
The  other  25  will  be  all  in  operation  in  the  course  of  this  year, 


)^:^  * 


876 


TRAVELS    IN 


and  together  with  the  former  onc^t,  (all  of  which  are  incrcaoin^ 
their  machinery,)  will,  by  tlie  estimate  received,  work  more  than 
80,000  spindles  at  the  commencement  of  the  year  181 1. 

"  The  capital  required  to  carry  on  the  manufacture  on  the  bc»t 
terms  is  estimated  at  the  rate  of  100  dollars  per  spindle;  but  itii 
believed,  that  no  more  than  at  the  rate  of  60  dollars  is  gencrallv 
employed.  Each  spindle  produces  annually  about  36  pounds  uf 
yarn  from  l-iilbs.  of  cotton  ;  and  the  value  of  the  yarn  niuy  be  a- 
veragcd  as  worth  1  dollar  12^  cents  per  lb.  Eight  hundred  spin- 
dles employ  40  persons,  viz.  5  men,  35  women  and  children. 

"  The  increase  of  carding  and  spinning  cotton  by  machincn, 
in  establishments  for  that  purpose,  cxcluKively  of  that  done  in 
private  familcs,  has  been  fourfold  during  the  last  two  years,  and 
tenfold  in  three  years.  Thirty  six  of  these  mills,  working  20,406 
spindles,  are  situated  within  30  miles  of  Providence.  The  remain* 
dcr  are  scattered  all  over  the  country. 

"  Hosiery  may  be  considered  us  almost  exclusively  a  houselio!il 
manufacture.  That  of  Germantown  has  declined,  and  it  dm 
not  appear  to  have  been  attempted  on  a  large  scale  in  other  places. 
There  are,  however,  some  exceptions ;  and  it  is  stated,  that  the 
island  of  Martha's  Vineyard  exports  annually  9000  pair  of  stock- 
ings. 

"  But  by  flir  the  greater  part  of  the  goods  made  of  cotton,  flax, 
and  wool,  are  manufactured  in  private  families,  mostly  fur  their 
own  use,  ond  partly  for  sale.  They  consist  principally  of  coarse 
cloth,  flannel,  cotton  stuffs,  and  stripes  of  every  description,  linen, 
and  mixtures  of  wool  with  flax  and  cotton.  The  information  re- 
ceived from  every  state,  and  from  more  than  60  different  places, 
concurs  in  establishing  the  fact  of  an  extraordinary  increase  during 
the  last  two  years,  and  in  rendering  it  probable,  that  about  two* 
thirds  of  the  clothing,  and  house  and  table  linen  of  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  Unital  States,  who  do  not  reside  in  seaports,  is  made 
in  this  way. 

"  In  the  eastern  and  middle  states,  carding  machines,  worked 
by  water,  are  every  where  established,  and  they  are  rapidly  ex- 
tending southwardly  and  westwardly.  Jennies,  other  family  spin- 
ning machines,  and  flying  shuttles,  are  also  introduc.xl  in  many 
places ;  and  as  many  fulling  mills  are  erected  as  are  required  for 
finishing  all  the  cloth  that  is  woven  in  private  families. 

"  The  value  of  the  goods  made  of  cotton,  wool,  and  flax,  which 


NRW    YOnKt 


277 


arc  annually  manufactured   in  the  United  States,  is  calculated  to 
(>xccc<UO,000,000  dollars. 

«  The  muinifacture  of  cards  and  wire  is  intimately  connected 
with  this  part  of  the  subject.  VVhitemore's  mncliine  fur  making 
cards  hem  completely  excluded  forei<{i)  importations  of  that  article, 
but  the  wire  is  altorrethcr  imported.  It  appears,  however,  that  the 
maniitacture  of  it  may  uiid  would  be  imme<liiitely  established,  so 
a!)  to  kupply  the  demand  both  for  cards  and  other  objects,  provi« 
(led  die  sanie  duty  was  imiHised  on  wire  (now  imported  duty  free) 
which  is  laid  on  other  articles  of  the  same  material. 

"  Earthen  and  Glass-ware. 


"  A  suflicicnt  quantity  of  the  coarser  species  of  {lottery  is  made 
ever}'  where ;  and  information  has  been  received  of  four  manufac- 
tories ofafmcr  kind  lately  establi!>hed.  One  at  Philadelphia,  with 
a  capital  of  1 1 ,000  dollars,  manufactures  a  species  similar  to  that 
made  ill  Staffordshire,  in  England  ;  and  the  others  in  Chester  coun- 
ty, in  Pennsylvania,  in  New  Jersey,  and  on  the  Ohio,  make  va- 
rious kinds  of  queen's- ware. 

''  Information  has  been  obtained  of  10  glass  manufactories, 
which  employ  about  HO  glass-blowers,  and  make  annually  27}000 
l)oxe8  of  window  glass,  containing  each  100  square  feet  of  glass. 
Some  of  these  manufactories  make  also  green  bottles  and  other 
wares ;  and  two  works,  employing  together  6  glass-blowers,  have 
been  lately  erected  at  Pittsburg,  and  make  decanters,  ;  Mblcra^ 
and  every  other  description  of  flint  glass  of  a  superior  quality. 

"  It  is  inferred,  that  the  annual  product  of  the  American  manu- 
factures exceeds  120,000,000  dollars;  and  it  is  not  improbable 
that  the  raw  material  used,  and  the  provisions  and  other  articles 
consumed  by  the  manufacturers,  creates  a  home  market  for  agri- 
cultural products  not  very  inferior  to  that  which  arises  from  foreign 
demand. 

"  The  most  prominent  of  the  causes  which  have  hitherto  im- 
peded the  progress  of  manufactures  have  been  the  abundance  of 
iaiul,  compared  with  the  population,  the  high  price  of  labour,  and 
the  want  of  capital.  The  superior  attractions  of  (^ricultural  pur- 
suits, the  great  extension  of  American  commerce,  during  the  late 
European  wars,  and  the  continuance  of  habits  after  the  causes 
which  produced  them  Lave  ceased  to  exist,  may  also  be  cniment* 


r 


i*y 


A. 

*  'I 


278  TRAVt.W   IN 

ed.  Several  of  these  obsUclcs  have,  however,  been  removed  nr 
lessened.  The  ciirapness  of  provisions  had  always,  to  n  cirtaln 
extent,  counterbnlnnccd  the  liigh  price  of  manual  labour;  and  thii 
is  now,  in  many  important  branches,  nearly  supersedcil  by  ihc 
introduction  of  machinery.  A  great  American  capital  lias  JK-cn 
acquired  durinc^  the  last  twenty  3'oars;  and  the  injurious  violntum 
of  the  neutral  commerce  of  the  United  States,  by  forciufr  jiuliistry 
and  capital  into  other  channels,  have  broken  inveterate  habits,  and 
given  a  general  impulse,  to  which  must  l>e  ascribed  the  grout  cii* 
crease  of  manufactures  during  the  two  last  years." 

It  would  be  tedious  to  enumerate  the  twentieth  part  of  tlio  in* 
formation,  which  came  under  my  ob«rrvation  in  corroborotion  of 
this  report ;  I  shall,  therefore,  only  condescend  upon  one  >im<r\t 
circumstance,  which  shows  at  one  glance  the  great  progress  of  p  a* 
nufactures,  and  how  little  the  subject  may  be  known  by  i.ioso 
who  live  in  the  sea>ports.  In  the  county  of  New  York,  compre- 
hending the  whole  island,  there  were,  in  1810,  only  three  looms; 
the  number  in  the  stale  was  33,068 ;  and  the  general  summary  of 
the  manufactures,  in  the  state,  was  as  follows : 

Valuft 
33,068  yards  cloth  9,099,703       dol.  5,002,891 


Looms 
Tan  works 
Distilleries 
Breweries     ■ 
Fulling  mills 
Paper  mills 
Hat  factories 
Glass  worics 
Powder  nnlb 
Repe  walks 
Sugar  houses 
Oil  mUIs 
Blast  furnaces 
Air  liimaces 
Cat-nail  factories 
Forges  *•*    • 
Trip  hammers 
Rolling  and  slit 

ting  mills 
CardlDg  machines 


867  leather 

591  spirit} 

42  beer 
427  enhanced  value  of  cloth 

S8  paper 

124  bats 

6  '  glass  (besides  bottles) 

9  powder 

18  ropes 

10  sugar 

US  oil  • 

11  iron  wares 
lt>"   '  do. 

44  nails  '    ';■ 

4%'  iron 

49  do. 


1 


do. 


1,299,542 
1,685,794 
340,765 
679,126 
233,268 
249,035 
716,820 

10,040 
538,000 
420,706 

49,288 
205,300 
156,720 
276,932 
185,240 

40,000 

33,120 


mercc  wou 


41S    (value  in  cloth  stated  above) 


rcmovod  nr 
to  n  cirtnin 
3ur ;  and  tliii 
»c(lc(l  by  ilic 
titnl  lins  Ik-ch 
iuud  violation 
cinp;  industry 
;c  habits,  and 
the  great  en- 

[irt  of  tlic  in« 
•roboratioii  of 
n  one  nu»\t 
rocrcss  of  p  a- 
>wn  by  i.io>o 
ork,  compre- 
three  loomj; 
il  summary  of 

Value* 
^ol.  5,002,891 
1,299,542 
1,685,794 
340,765 
679,126 
233,268 
249,035 
716,820 
10,040 
538,000 
420,706 
49,28S 
205,300 
156,720 
276,932 
185,240 
40,000 


33,120 


)ve) 


NSW    TOKX.  279 

Cotton  factories      26     (value  not  ascertained) 

Wooiica  factories  (ditto) 

Salt  525,000  bukhcls  147,000 

Silk  ^240  skeins 

Artifice  in  Stnto  Prison  60,000 

Tile  iiulc  uiuuutuctures  may  be  estimated  above  17  millions  of 
dollars,  exclusive  of  tiunr,  a^hes,  maple  sugar,  cyder,  &c. 

The  aggregate  uf  the  manufactures  of  Pennsylvania,  I  found  to 
exceed  28  millions  of  dollars;  and  they  appeared  every  where  to  be 
tippruucliin<;  nearly  to  a  supply  of  the  internal  doniund,  while 
those  of  Rhode  Island  exceeded  it,  and  aiTordcd  a  great  surplus 
lor  exportation. 

From  these  and  several  other  circumstances  which  came  under 
my  review,  I  was  led  to  believe  that  the  trade  to  Britain,  on  which 
I  had  fixed  my  dependence,  would  be  now  so  much  curtailed,  that 
it  would  be  precarious:  but  1  had  been  long  in  it ;  my  habits  were 
formed  to  it ;  and  1  was  unwilling  to  relinquish  it,  w  hilc  there 
was  a  ray  of  hope  left. 

At  last  that  ray  of  ho{ie  was  dissipated.  The  prince  of  Wales 
was  appointed  regent ;  but  no  new  ministry  was  formed,  nor  any 
measure  adopted  to  restore  harmony  between  the  two  countries : 
— "  I  therefore  calculated  that  internal  manul'actures  and  com- 
merce would,  in  all  probability,  be  substituted  for  foreign  com- 
merce," and  I  resolved  to  sha])e  my  course  acordiugly. 


CHAPTER  LX. 

Kevo  York, — Philadelphia^ — Baltimore^ —  Washington, 

Having  now  to  fix  on  a  new  line  of  life,  it  was  the  subject  of 

much  reflection  and  study  to  find  out  which  would  be  tne  beat;  and 

tlie  result  was  that  my  affections  tended  most  towards  agriculturcw 

1  had  been  bred  to  this  branch  in  my  youth ;  I  had  always  admired 

I  it;  but  1  saw  that  in  my  own  country  I  never  could  rise  to  complete 

I  uidepcndence  in  it ;  I  could  never  expect  to  farm  my  own  property. 

When  therefore  a  chance  turned  up  which  presentied  a  feir  prospect 

for  success  in  the  commercial  world,  I  gladly  embraced  it ;    I   was 

I 'or  a  considerable  while  successful  in  it  beyond  my  most  sanguiao 

"pcctations ;  but  the  times  became  at  length  so  oiUra^ecMly  singii- 


«80 


TRAVBU   IM 


lar  thnt  my  wliole  plant  were  di«concertod,  ami  I  waa  wofully  diV 
nppuinted.  I  had  been  no  long  out  ot'thc  habit  ol' agricultural  pur. 
■uit«  that  I  foresaw  a  difficulty  in  renuming  them,  and  tlure  wtrr 
Rcveral  diflicultie^  to  encounter  otherwise;  but,  on  the  otiicr  liand 
1  knew  that  I  could,  by  my  own  labour  alone,  support  my  tiimilT 
nn  five  acrott  of  land,  if  neceMary ;  ho  that  we  nevor  could  in  tlut 
branch  be  absolutely  destitute  :  and  from  the  ease  with  which  Jind 
can  be  procured  in  thiii  country,  I  thought  I  could  be  more  iiidr 
I>endcndcnl  in  it  than  any  other. 

I  had  travelled  a  ^roat  detd  in  America,  but,  m  my  pursuits  tvcn 
comnicreinl,  my  trnvcU  were  confined  to  the  commercial  (liitricts. 
In  an  agricultural  point  of  view,  I  was  led  to  believe,  from  all  1  hid 
heard,  that  the  western  country  prenentcd  the  fmest  field  ;  and  at 
any  rate  it  seemeil  to  be  of  consetjuence  to  me  to  examine  it,  unic* 
count  of  the  low  price  of  land. 

As  1  had  always  a  strong  desire  to  join  objects  of  public  iitilitv 
with  my  private  purtuits;  it  now  occurred  that  I  might  arransei 
plan  so  as  to  give  the  public  correct  and  authentic  information  r^ 
garding  a  section  of  the  country  but  imperfectly  known,  altliou:;ii 
of  great  importance ;  and  from  a  review  of  the  information  I  had 
already  collected,  I  thought  it  might  be  u  desideratum  in  literature 
to  publish  my  travels  in  the  Atlantic  states  and  Britain,  at  the  !<aine 
time. 

I  communicated  my  ideas  ou  thU  subject  to  a  number  of  mj 
friends,  and  my  plan  having  met  their  approbation,  1  resolved  to  unilir- 
take  a  pretty  extended  tour  into  the  western  country.  M'ith  avie» 
of  fixing  upon  the  best  route,  and  the  objects  of  greatest  iuiportanct 
to  be  attended  to,  I  availed  myself  of  all  the  information  I  cuuld 
procure  from  books,  maps,  and  persons  who  had  lately  visited  that 
country ;  ond  determined  to  take  a  journey  to  Philadelphia  aiiii 
Washington,  to  procure  the  needful  information  regarding  ua- 
settled  lands,  particularly  those  belonging  to  the  United  States 

Having  stationed  my  family  in  an  agreeable  and  healthy  situation 
on  Long  Island,  beside  excellent  neighbours,  1  set  out  for  riiiludtl' 
phia,by  the  steam  boat,  on  the  15th  of  May,  and  arrived  on  the  llili 

Here  1  was  introduced  to  a  gentleman  well  actjuainted  with  laiitJ, 
and  he  procured  me  every  information  regarding  the  state  ol  I'eiin- 
sylvania,  and  some  other  places ;  and  gave  me  otherwise  such  inlor- 
ination  as  greatly  facilitated  my  after  inquiries. 

I  carried  with  me  a  letter  of  introduction  to  Mr.  Latrobe,  «t 


je  luurc  indr 


PEKNSYf.V/^NIA.  881 

Wvhington,  and  t  fortunately  iri«t  with  him  at  Philndciphia, 
«hm!  lie  waa  att(fn(lin^  u  iiievtiiig  of  the  Society  of  Artistii  of  the 
tiiitcd  ^itntcts  of  which  he  wti»  uuc  of  the  vice-pn'nideiitft.  At 
Mr.  Lntruhc  wiih  well  nc(|uniiiteU  with  Mr.  Ciallatin,  io  whom  he 
proniiMii  to  iiitroilucc  iius  1  ^^:>«  induced  to  wiiit  u  few  dnys  for  hisi 
<ief)arture,  aiid  thiit  afl«)rded  tne  u  little  tiiorc  time  to  ttee  thin  One 

city. 

1  tbund  that  it  had  gently  increasci.1  in  xi/c,  splendour,  and 
vralth,  since  I  first  vit>ited  it.  'i'he  po|)ulntiun  had  encieasod  in 
ten  years  from  81,000  to  111/210.  Many  ini|>ortnnt  inanufuctureii 
htd  been  eHtahliiihed ;  and  the  fine  arts  hiulflonriiihed  in  an  emi- 
nent (iti^ree.  Connected  with  this  In^t  subject,  I  waH  happy  to  find 
that  the  artihts  had  recently  formed  themselves  into  a  society,  un- 
der the  title  of  the  Society  of  Artists  of  the  Umiteu  States  ; 
and  tlieir  institution  is  formed  on  such  principlets  and  is  in  such  (v 
(rain  of  ninnai^cmentf  as  promises  to  be  highly  useful  to  the  pro^resn 
of  the  arts  in  this  country.  A  short  account  of  this  infant  society 
cannut  tail  to  be  interesting. 

in  the  month  of  Muy«  1810,  a  number  of  artists  and  amntours 
annciated  together  at  Philadttlphia,  and  announced  their  inten- 
tion of  forming  this  institution,  from  a  conviction  that  it  was  ro 
qui<tite,  and  with  a  view  of  collecting  into  a  focus  the  various  talents 
and  reiioiirces  of  artihtS)  and  thereby  stamping  a  character  upon 
the  line  arts  in  America. 

At  a  meeting  of  the  Society)  Mr.  Oeorge  Murf  hy,  one  of  the 
principal  engravers  in  Philadelphia,  who  had  bornn  a  very  active 
prt  in  forming  the  society,  delivered  an  address,  a  few  extracts 
from  which  will  more  particularly  show  the  principles  and  design  of 
the  institution. 

"The  primary  objects  of  the  society,"  says  Mr.  Murray,  "  ttre 
to  establish  schools  in  all  the  various  brandies  of  the  fme  arts,  and 
a  public  exhibition  of  the  productions  of  American  artists  ;  to  im- 
prove the  public  taste ;  to  raise  a  fund  for  the  relief  of  decayed 
members ;  to  examine  with  impartiality  in  what  true  excellency 
consists,  and  to  render  as  simple  as  }>ossible  the  means  of 
acquiring  a  knowledge  of  tlic  arts ;  but,  above  all,  to  endeavour 
to  remove  existing  prejudices,  and  to  give  a  character  to  t!ie  fine 
arts  ill  the  United  States. 

"  An  opinion  has  prevailed,  and  in  some  degree  exists  at  pre- 
•«nt,  that  tliis  country  is  too  young  to  foster  the  arts,  and  that  our 

36 


'1  ;!t 


.*  ,4'-»J 


262 


TRAWLS    IN 


Irn 


m 


form  of  government  is  not  very  favourable  to  promote  them  ;  tlui 
there  are  not  suiticient  materials  to  enable  the  student  to  pursue  Im 
Ktudies  to  advantage;  and  that  there  is  neither  taste  to  appreciate 
merit,  nor  a  disposition  to  reward  it. 

"These  opinions  have  been  promulgated  without  due  examini. 
tion.  We  possess  a  va^t  extent  of  territory,  and  variety  of  cli> 
mute ;  affording  not  only  all  the  comforts  and  convcniencies,  but 
nearly  all  the  luxuries  of  life.  Chains  of  mountains,  of  amazing 
extent,  run  nearly  parallel  with  the  coast,  and  arc  intersected  at 
many  places  with  magnificent  rivers,  forming  a  vast  variety  uf  the 
most  sublime  and  picturesque  scenery  in  the  'vorld;  and  the«c  be- 
ing diversified  with  populous  cities,  towns,  villagcii,  and  elegant 
mansions,  aflbrd  an  infinite  source  of  materials  for  the  landscape 
painter. 

"  The  rapid  increase  of  population  and  of  wealth,  and  the  ap- 
plication of  the  latter  to  promote  the  improvement  of  our  cities  and 
public  works,  calls  forth  the  talents  of  the  architect,  and  insures  a 
reward  for  his  exertions.  .. 

"  To  commemorate  the  American  revolution,  and  to  place  in  a 
conspicuous  point  of  view  those  patriots  and  heroes,  who  fought 
and  bled  in  their  country's  cause,  belong  equally  to  the  pointer,  the 
sculptor,  and  the  engraver. 

**  The  prosperity,  and  even  existence  of  a  republic,  depends 
upon  an  ardent  love  of  liberty  and  virtue ;  and  the  fine  arts,  when 
properly  directed,  have  a  tendency,  in  a  very  eminent  degree,  to 
promote  both. 

"  The  encouragement  given  to  engraving  within  these  few  years, 
and  the  great  improvement  of  that  branch  of  the  urt»,  is  a  convinc- 
ing proof  that  the  American  people  are  far  from  being  destitute  of 
taste  Many  works  have  lately  issued  from  the  American  press, 
embellished  with  engravings  equal,  and  some  of  them  superior,  to 
those  of  the  same  kind  in  Europe.*  In  particular,  the  American 

*  As  a  proof  of  the  advanced  state  of  this  branch  of  the  fine  arts,  and  its  appL'cation  u 
important  commercial  purposes,  it  may  not  be  improper  to  notice,  that  an  iiistiuitionlw 
lately  been  establisiied  at  Philadelphia,  for  engraving  and  printing  banknotes,  and  other 
important  papers,  with  a  view  to  render  them  more  diflicult  of  imitation.  This  ntt- 
blishment  consists  of  an  association  of  artist*,,  of  the  lirst  talents  in  the  various  parts  of 
ornamental  and  writing  engraving  ;  and  is  carried  on  under  the  firm  of  Murray,  Draper, 
raiiman,  &  Co.  In  the  ornamental  part  u£  the  notes,  they  make  use  of  steel  dies,  »• 
cciited  with  great  mechanical  accuracy,  with  vcLricb  an  impresuon,  singularly  beautiful 


PENNiYLVAXI> 


2S3 


Ornithology,  by  Alexander  Wilson,  challenges  a  competition 
with  any  work  of  the  kind  that  has  ever  appeared ;  and  has  receiv- 
«d  the  stamp  of  approbation  from  the  best  judges  in  Europe.  The 
splendid  success  of  that  work  in  America,  speaks  volumes  in  fa- 
vour  of  American  taste. 

"  As  the  United  States  possess  a  most  beautiful  system  of  equal 
lavs,  and  hold  out  the  right  hand  of  fellowship  to  all  the  frit  nds  of 
rational  freedom,  they  afford  a  safe  retreat  to  such  os  may  l)c  forced 
from  their  native  land,  by  the  jealousy  or  tyranny  of  old  govern- 
ments; and  that  bring  along  with  them  the  arts  and  sciences, 
in  return  for  the  boon  of  protection  which  they  receive  in  this  hap- 
py country,  which  may  be  termed  the  strong  hold  of  liberty. 

"The  Society  of  Artists,  looking  up  to  their  fellow-citizens  for 
countenance  and  support,  arc  determined  individually,  and  ns  a 
body,  to  use  every  exertion  to  promote  the  prosperity,  glory,  and 
independence  of  their  country." 

A  constitution  was  drawn  up  and  signed  by  about  60  members, 
and  the  society  being  invited  to  hold  their  meetings  in  the  Pennsyl- 
vania Academy,  this  was  accepted,  and  was  found  to  be  of  great 
utility  to  the  infant  institution. 

In  the  coui*8e  of  six  months,  the  society  consisted  of  upwards 
of  100  members,  when  it  was  resolved  to  divide  the  artists  into  two 
classes,  denominated  "  Fellows  of  the  society,"  and  "  Associate 
Artists ;"  and  the  general  management  was  vested  in  a  president, 
four  vice-presidents,  a  secretary,  and  treasurer,  llie  vice-presi- 
dents to  be  artists  of  the  class  of  fellows,  and  to  be  chosen  one 
each  from  the  following  branches  of  the  arts :  painting,  sculpture, 
architecture,  and  engraving. 


is  suraped  upon  the  copper- plates.  The  notes  engraved  by  the  conipany  are  greatly  ad- 
imrcdfor  the  beauty  and  elegance  of  Uie  workmanship,  and  far  surpass  any  thing  I  have 
"er  seen  in  Europe.  The  institution  has  lieen  in  operation  about  two  years,  and  has 
necuted  engravings  for  42  banks,  none  of  which  have  been  counterfeited.  Indeed,  it 
apptart  to  me,  tliat  there  is  no  chance  of  any  attennpt  being  made  to  counterfeit  their 
MlM;  for  no  attempt  could  be  successful,  unless  executed  by  a  combination  of  tiilent, 
tqual  to  what  has  been  called  into  operation  by  this  society ;  and  where  that  existk,  He 
0197  safely  conclude  that  It  will  find  a  more  honourable  and  a  more  profitable  employ- 
iixnt  in  America,  than  coimterfeiting  bank  note*. 

Tb«  company  havs  also  devised  a  plan  for  tlie  ornamental  parts  of  ships'  papers, 
«bidi  has  been  submitted  to  tlie  general  government,  and  will  probably  be  adopted  ;  in 
which  ctK  it  will  guard  the  American  flag  against  prostitution,  to  the  great  joy,  no 
^""^  of  the  fraternity  who  are  employed  in  London,  Liverpool,  and  elsewhere,  in  the 
'try  honourable  trade  «f  '•  siinalali'i?"  thipi  paptrs. 


i 


vr 


%m 


1) 


'■'*t.V  ij 


1  ■-  "h  1^1 


9B4t 


TRAVBLt   IN 


An  attempt  was  made  to  unite  with  the  Aaademy  <^  Fine  Arts, 
so  us  to  form  but  one  society,  but  owing  to  some  particular  cIn 
cumsttmces  it  did  not  succeed ;  and  an  arrangement  was  entered 
into  otherwise,  wliich  will  probably  be  equally  beneficial  in  promote 
ing  the  objects  of  both. 

In  January,  1811,  the  president  of  the  United  States  was  re^ 
quested  to  accept  the  title  of  patron,  which  he  co»>plied  with, 
highly  approving  of  the  principles  of  the  institution,  and  offerisg 
it  all  the  aid  in  his  power. 

On  the  6th  of  May,  the  fli^t  annual  exhibition  was  opened  to 
the  public,  and  consisted  of  more  than  500  articles,  above  half 
of  which  were  the  ])roduction  of  American  artists.  The  vast  con- 
course  of  visitors,  who  thronged  to  see  the  exhibition,  formed  a 
striking  proqf  of  its  utility,  and  of  the  estimation  in  which  it  was 
held  by  the  public.  The  receipts,  during  the  six  weeks  tliat  it 
was  kept  open,  amounted  to  I860  dollars;  and  the  receipts  of 
(mother  week  having  been  appropriated  to  the  relief  of  the  saffer- 
crs  by  fire  in  Newburyport,  amounted  to  4' 10  dollars. 

When  I  vibited  the  exhibition,  I  was  quite  surprised  to  find  th« 
arts  in  America  in  such  a  forward  state.  A  great  number  of  th* 
paintings,  both  portrait  and  landscape,  were  e<]ual  to  any  thing  I 
had  ever  seen  in  Europe;  and  the  designs  in  architecture  had  s 
neatness  and  elegaiiccj  which  indicated  a  very  correct  public  taste. 
There  were  a  number  of  models  of  elegant  workmanship;  and 
the  exhibition  of  prints  bore  ample  testimony  to  the  advanced  state 
of  engraving.  Connected  with  this  branch  is  that  of  drawinpf 
maps,  of  which  an  elegant"  specimen  was  in  the  exhibition;  and 
Philadelphia  cm  boust  an  artist  in  this  line,  probably  inferior  to 
none  in  the  world. 

I  was  highly  gratified  to  see  the  number  and  respectability  of 
the  visitors;  particularly  of  the  ladies,  whose  approbation  aiid 
opplause  was  no  small  proof  of  the  value  of  the  institution,  and 
must  have  been  highly  gratifying  to  the  artists.  Kvery  person,  who 
is  acquainted  with  human  nature,  must  be  aware  of  the  influence 
of  intelligent  women  in  polished  society,  I  have  never  yet  seen 
any  object  fail  which  met  with  tbieir  ^pvoba.tioo<  and  support; 
and  their  approbation  and  support,  on  this  o«ca«ion,  was  tomes 
convincing  proof  both  of  the  utility  and  stability  of  the  society. 

The  terms  of  admissiua  are  5  4^\\MSi  of  entr^,  and  4>  dollars  ul 


\Kt  '- 


4'/        »*■ 


PENNSYLVANI\. 


JSj 


annual  subscription,  until  50  dollars  be  paid  in  all ;  after  whick 
the  members  are  free  for  life.      "  '         '  •         " 

If  any  thing  is  wanted  to  complete  thia  institution,  I  shoald 
think  it  is  a  library.  A  small  additional  sum  from  each  of  the  mem- 
bfTj  annually  would  secure  that  object ;  and  it  is  very  probable 
tlwt  it  would  meet  with  poblic  encouragement  by  many  donations 
gi'btfoks  IJrom  patriotic  individuals,  who  wish  well  to  the  improve- 
ment of  the  mind  among  a  cJtiss  of  people  so  useful  in  society  as 
artists. 

I  should  imagine,  too,  that  from  the  peculiar  principles  df  the 
association,  they  would  merit  the  notice  of  the  legislature  of  a 
repnblican  commonwealth.  The  society,  from  its  nature,  must  be 
purely  republican.  Operative  artists  are  nearly  all  on  an  equal  foot- 
ing, and  being,  to  use  tlieir  own  expression,  "  the  bees  that  make 
the  honey,"  their  combined  power  must  be  very  considerable. 
Few  of  them,  however,  being  rich,  tiiis  power  must  be  chiefTy 
confined  to  the  forwarding  of  the  objects  laid  down  in  their  inslitii- 
tion.  These  they  can  manage  with  propriety ;  but  to  accommodate 
themselves  widi  appropriate  buildings  is  probably  beyond  their 
power:  hence,  they  must  be  in  some  measure  dependent.  A  small 
degree  of  legislative  aid  might  relieve  them  from  this  inconveni- 
ence, and  I  have  no  doubt  that  the  legislature  of  Pennsylvania 
would,  if  properly  applied  to,  readily  afford  it  to  a  society  who 
desorTc  so  well  of  their  country. 

Mr.  Latrobe  being  detained  longer  than  was  expected,  I  was 
obliged  to  set  out  for  Washington  alone ;  but  he  favoured  me 
with  a  letter  of  introduction,  which  answered  every  purpose. 

On  the  28th  of  May,  I  took  my  passage  on  board  the  New- 
castle packet,  and  we  set  sail  at  8  o'clock  in  the  morning,  with  a 
very  light  wind.  On  getting  round  Gloucester  Point,  the  breeze 
iacreased,  but  it  was  almost  right  ahead,  and  we  had  to  tack 
trom  side  to  side  all  the  way  down,  which  afforded  us  a  fine  view 
"ttlicbuuks  of  the  Delaware,  and,  the  country  being  in  full  ver- 
dure, they  exhibited  a  very  fine  appearance.  We  reached  Ncw- 
caiitle  at  5  o'clock,  and  immediately  got  into  a  stago  to  cross  the 
country.  The  stage  took  a  difiiercnt  road  from  that  I  had  travel- 
led before.  The  country  was  low,  but  the  soil  was  more  rich  and 
1  better  improved,  In  our  way,  we  passed  a  good  many  hedges  of 
I'iiwthorn,  which  were  in  a  most  luxuriant  state,  aiul  gave  the 
|kUs  a  fresh,  verdant  appearance.     We  arrived  at  Frenchtown  ut 


286  TRAVELS   IN 

9  o'clock)  and  immediately  went  on  board  the  packet ;  but  the 
wind  and  tide  were  both  against  us,  and  we  lay  all  night  at  tbe 
wharf. 

May  29,  we  had  a  thunder-gust  during  the  night,  and  the  wind 
shifted  to  the  north-west,  so  that  at  2  o'clock  in  the  morning  we 
set  sail  with  a  fair  wind,  and  by  the  time  I  rose,  at  6  o'clock,  «e 
were  nearly  half  way  to  Baltimore.  The  wind  increased,  and,  as 
tlie  packet  sailed  very  fast,  we  reached  Baltimore  a  little  past  9 
o'clock,  in  the  morning. 

Baltimore  had  increased  very  much  since  my  last  visit :  the  in- 
habitants now  amounted  to  35,583. 

On  the  30th,  at  6  o'clock  in  the  morning,  I  set  out  for  Washing- 
ton by  the  mail  stage.  I  observed  no  material  difference  in  the 
country  since  I  travelled  through  it  before,  but  found  that  the 
road  was  much  improved,  and  it  will  soon  be  in  a  very  good  stute. 
We  arrived  at  Washington  at  1  o'clock.  My  transactions  there 
shall  be  narrated  in  the  next  chapter. 


t  ' 

*■ 


CHAPTER  LXI. 

IiUerview  with    Mr.    Gallatin, — -joith    the  President^ — Return  h 
,  ,  New  York. 

Soon  after  my  arrival  in  Wasliington,  I  waitcti  on  ray  fricml 
mentioned  in  my  former  visit.  I  found  i>e  had  left  the  treasury 
department,  and  had  become  a  merchant.  He  was  equally  atten- 
tive as  before.  I  intimated  the  object  of  my  journey,  and,  to 
facilitate  it,  he  introduced  me  to  a  gentleman  who  was  actjuaint- 
ed  with  the  secretary  of  the  treasury.  This  gentleman  introduced 
me  to  Mr.  Gallatin,  to  whom  I  delivered  my  letter  of  introduc- 
tion, and,  after  some  general  conversation,  it  was  agreed  that  I 
should  wait  upon  him  next  morning  at  9  o'clock. 

As  I  knew  that  Mr.  Gallatin  was  an  accurate  man  of  business 
I  considered  that  it  would  be  proper  to  commit  the  substance  <" 
my  inquiries  to  paper,  and,  on  my  return  to  my  lodgings,  I  drew 
up  the  following  queries. 

°  .I.IInJj        i^     '/'i    i-fi'^tltr,'  'J    •/•'•.''.'    •■*' 


THB   DISTRICT   OF  COLUMBIA. 


287 


!t;    but  the 
light  at  the 

ind  the  wind 
morning  we 
>  o'clock,  »e 
tse(U  and,  as 
i  little  past  9 

visit :  the  in- 

for  Washing- 
tjrence  in  the 
ound  that  the 
ry  good  state. 
sactions  there 


..i. 


!/, — Return  t^ 

I  on  ray  frif"^^ 

the  treasury 

I  equally  atten- 

irney,  and,  to 

was  acciuaint- 

[an  introducetl 

:r  of  intrwluc- 

narced  thatl 

In  of  business, 
|e  substance  *'f 


gings, 

1  drc* 

,  v..: 

.  f 

/;» 

'  .    '  ' 

It    '. 

%"■■ 

tfi.U 

til'  '>' 

P)cliininafy  Inquiries  hefwe  netting  otU  on  a   Tour  to  the  Western 

Country. 

1st.  What  are  the  particular  situations  in  the  United  States  which 

combine  the  greatest  number  of  advantages  to  new  settlers  ? 
2d.  Who  hold  large  tracts  of  unsettled  land,  in  good  situations  ? 
It  is  presumed  the  most  advantageous  terms  can  be  made  with 
sucli,  l>ecause  every  new  settler  has  a  tendency  to  confer  value 
upon  the  adjoining  lands. 
3d.  VMiat  is  the  price  of  land  generally,  cleared  and  uncleared ; 
and  the  clinmt-^    as  to  the  heat  of  summer  and  cold  of  winter? 
It  is  to  be  observetl  that  a  temperate  climate  is  deemed  the  best. 
4th.  What  are  the  local  circumstances  attending  the  didercnt  situ- 
ations that  may  come  under  review  ?    Are  they  best   calculated 
for  raising  stock  or  grain  ?     It  i.s  presumed  that  one  favourable 
for  both  would  answer  best. 
5th.  Where  do  those  tracts  of  land  lie,  that  are  composed   partly 
of  woodland,  and   partly  of  prairie?     It   appears  that  meadow 
lands  would  suit  best  for  tillage  and  grazing,  while  wood  is  in- 
dispensably necessary  for  fuel,  for  fences,  for  houses,  for  furni- 
ture, and  other  purposes. 
6th.  What  situations  are  most  favourable  for  minerals,  particular- 
ly coal,  iron,  and  limestone  ?  -  -      .        .« 
Tlh.  What  is  the  degree  of  facility,  by  water  communication  ;  and 

by  roads  and  canals,  already  existing  or  projected  ? 
8lh.  What  are  the  best  maps,  geographies,  gazetteers,  and  books 
of  travels  in  the  United  States? 

May.  31.     I  waited   on  Mr.  Gallatin,    at  his  own   house,  ac- 
cording to  appointment,  when  he  gave  me  ample  information  on 
the  greater  part  of  the  preceding  inquiries,    and  invited  me  to 
jmeetliiin  at  his  office  for  further  details   regarding  the   United 
jStates'  lands.     On  waiting  on  him  there,   he  exhibited   all  the 
|6ur\eys,  and  on  a  small  map  of  the  western  country,  in   my  pos- 
jseNsioii,  marked  out  the  diiferent  land  districts  belonging  to  the 
government  of  the  United  States.  . 

1  was  highly  gratified  by  Mr.  Gallatin's  attention,  and  much 
liScd  by  his  valuable  information,  which  was  my  principal  guide 
I  fixing  on  my  route,  to  be  afterwards  noticed.  In  the  after 
an  ot  the  day  I  made  some  additional  inquiries,  in  consequence 


''i 


288 


TRAVELS   IK 


of  the  information  received  from  Mr.  Gallatin,  and  aftcrwardi 
went  to  see  n  friend  in  Georgetown. 

June  1.  Having  finished  my  more  immediate  business  at 
Wasliington,  I  went  this  day  to  pay  my  respects  to  the  president. 
Wr.  Mudison,  like  his  })redecessor,  required  no  introduction;  but 
lie  was  already  acquainted  with  me  by  name.  He  received  nic 
very  politely  in  a  drawing-room,  and  we  had  a  long  conversation, 
principally  regarding  the  relations  between  Britain  and  America, 
Mr.  Madison  observed,  that  he  would  have  gone  to  the  couiitrv 
before  this  time,  but  was  waiting  for  Mr.  Foster,  now  daily  ex- 
pected ;  and  he  sincerely  hoped  that  on  his  arrival  something 
V.  ould  be  done  to  accommodate  the  differences  between  the  two 
countries.  He  remarked  that  he  was  happy  to  observe  the  favour- 
able disposition  of  the  prince  of  Wales  towards  neutral  trade; 
and  it  was  a  considerable  ground  of  hope,  that  he  was  so  popular 
in  his  own  country.  He  had  done  nothing  as  yet,  but  it  appear- 
ed that  he  had  hitherto  sacrificed  his  own  opinion  to  his  faial  re- 
gard for  his  father ;  and  this  circumstance,  though  it  militated  a- 
gainst  a  free  trade  between  England  and  America  now,  yet  it  vas 
in  favour  of  the  prince's  personal  character;  and  he  tlioiight 
there  could  hardly  be  a  doubt  but  he  would  change  the  ministry 
and  restore  a  free  trade,  when  he  succeeded  to  full  power. 
.  On  the  stopping  of  the  trade  itself,  he  remarked  that,  the  im* 
morality  and  injustice  of  the  measure  out  of  the  question,  it  had 
always  astonished  him  that  the  British  ministry  should  persevere 
in  a  system  so  evidently  impolitic,  and  which  militated  more ; 
gainst  the  interest  of  England  than  any  other  nation  ;  and  it  could 
not  be  frqm  ignorance,  for  the  operation  and  tendency  of  the  | 
orders  in  council  had  been  very  amply  exposed  in  England,  par- 
ticularly in  Mr.  Baring's  pamphlet,  and  Mr.  Brougham's  speech;  I 
both  masterly  productions,  and  which  placed  the  question  between 
the  two  countries  in  as  clear  a  point  of  view  as  words  could  con- 
vey  it.  He  observed  that  the  effect  of  the  order*  in  council  were  | 
very  injurious  in  this  country,  as  they  tended  to  distress  ;  ho  sea* 
ports,  and  to  divide  the  people ;  and  there  was  now  no  aitciii>| 
tive  but  to  sacrifice  the  national  honour,  or  to  resist.  ricsi«taM«j 
had  been  determined  on  by  congress,  and  would  in  all  prob:ibil;i}l 
be  persevered  in  till  justice  was  obtained;  nor  did  he  believe  thjtj 
any  supposed  oj^sitiou  in  the  eastern  states  would  now  bavel 
any  effect  in  altering  that  determination,  it  being  well  knovn  that| 


THP.    DISTRlCr    OF    COLUMBIA. 


289 


mass  of  the  people  in  these  states  were  determined  republicans ; 
and,  notwithstanding  the  difference  of  opinion  on  connnercial  sub- 
jects, he  was  well  assured  that  in  the  day  of  trial  they  would 
stand  as  firmly  by  their  own  government  ns  any  section  in   the 

union. 

He  rcgrettetl  that  a  number  of  the  merchants  ditl  not  take  a 
more  extended  view  of  the  subject,  and  prefer  their  permanent 
interests  to  a  precarious  and  temporary  interest,  liable  to  be  cut 
off  every  day.  It  was  evident  that,  independent  of  the  principle 
which  the  orders  in  council  involed,  that  during  their  operation, 
the  trade  must  necessarily  be  very  limited,  and  subject  to  great 
contingencies ;  and  without  a  free  trade  to  the  continent,  there 
could  be  no  free  trade  from  England  ;  so  that,  although  the  govern- 
ment were  even  to  sacrifice  the  national  honour,  and  allow  the 
merchaiitb  to  regulate  the  commerce  of  the  country,  the  trade 
wonld  soon  cease  of  itself.  Goods  could  only  be  imported  to  the 
extent  of  the  exports,  and  these  being  confined  to  Enghmd,  and 
her  dependencies  and  allies^  it  nmst  necessarily  be  so  limited,  that 
many  of  the  merchants  would  be  in  a  losing  concern,  and  domes- 
tic manufactures  would  ultimately  supersede  foreign  commerce. 

Oil  the  subject  of  manufactures  he  observed  that  they  had  pro- 
j^essed  in  a  wonderful  degree,  and  went  far  to  supply  tlie  internal 
demand,  which  was  one  great  and  permanent  good  that  had  arisen 
out  of  a  system  fraught  with  many  evils :  and  so  firmly  were  these 
manufactures  now  rooted  that  they  would  unquestionably  fiourisli 
and  increase.  On  the  other  hand,  such  had  been  the  increase  of 
population  and  wealth  in  the  United  States,  that  there  would  still 
be  a  very  great  demand  for  British  manufactures,  were  the  trade  o- 
pcned.  Mr.  Baring  had  pointed  out  in  his  pamphlet  that  the  ex- 
ports from  Britain  to  America  amounted  to  12,000,000  stc'rlin«»-, 
and  he  had  no  doubt  but  they  would  continue  to  be  equal  to  that 
amount  if  the  trade  were  free:  and  this  consideration  alone  niii'lit 
have  hiduced  the  British  miuisty  to  cultivate  a  friendly  intercourse 
with  a  nation  who  were  disposed  to  be  friends,  in  place  of  scekiiif 
a  precarious  commerce  by  means  of  special  licenses  with  their  e- 
ucmies. 

The  conversation  laste<l  nearly  an  hour,  and  embraced  several 
other  topics,  but  these  are  the  most  material;  and  I  Iclt  ]Mr.  Ma- 
dison with  sentimepts  of  friendly  regard  and  high  estccui. 

WAsiiiNaroN  CITY,  and  the  district  of  Columbia  generally,  had 

37    '  • 


y^i? 


■mm 


mMm,<. 


290 


TRAVELS    IN 


mucli  improved  since  I  was  here  before ;  but  the  improvementi 
made  the  most  prominent  appearance  in  Georgetown  and  Alex* 
nndria,  whicli  arc  compact  handsome  towns.  The  city  is  laid  out 
on  quite  too  large  a  scale  to  be  cither  comfortable  or  handsome. 
Indeed  I  am  reluctantly  led  to  regret  that  the  seat  of  government  of 
the  Unitt'd  States  was  fixed  here  at  all.  The  soil  is  sterile  around 
it,  and  every  article  of  the  necessaries  of  life  is  extravagantly  high. 
The  climate  was  noticed  in  page  152,  accompanied  with  somero 
marks  concerning  the  marsh  effluvia  of  the  low  country,  which  my 
present  observations  tended  to  confirm.  A  strong  south-cast  wind 
was  blowing  this  day,  which  had  a  sensible  cfiect  on  my  health ;  and 
many  others  whom  I  saw,  and  a  sea  captain,  well  acquainted  with 
the  Mediterranean,  said  it  had  all  the  characteristics  of  a  Siroc 
wind. 

There  are  thousands  of  situations  in  the  United  States  equally 
central  and^convcnient  for  the  seat  of  the  general  government ;  and 
had  the  district  of  Columbia  been  situated  in  a  fertile  soil  and  fine 
climate,  such  are  the  advantages  arising  from  the  rircumstance  of 
its  being  the  seat  of  government,  that  it  would  in  all  probability  by 
this  time  have  abounded  with  population  and  wealth,  and  have  been 
the  nursery  of  the  sciences,  of  classical  education,  of  literature,  and 
of  all  the  other  arts  that  exalt  and  embellish  human  life.  As  it  is,  so> 
ciety  has  made  very  considerable  progress  within  these  last  10  years. 
The  population  of  the  district  of  Columbia  is  now  as  follows 

Washington  city 

Georgetown 

Washington  county,  exclusive  of  the  city  and  Georgetown 

Alexandria 

Alexandria  county,  exclusive  of  the  town 


8,208 

2,315 

7,22: 
1,32J 


24,023 


Having  now  com})Ietcd  my  arrangements  here  to  my  entire  satis- 
faction, I  was  anxious  to  lose  no  timein  commencing  on  my  western 
tour ;  I  accordingly  set  out  on  my  return,  on  the  2d  of  June,  at  8 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  arrived  at  Baltimore  at  3  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon,  where  I  stopped  all  night. 

On  the  3d  of  June  I  set  out  from  Baltimore  by  the  Pilot  stage,  nt 
3  o'clock  in  the  morning.  The  country  was  thinly  settled,  and  the 
road  verj'  rough  all  the  way  to  Havre-de-grace,  at  the  mouth- of  tlie 


NEW    YORK.  S9I 

Susquehannah,  where  we  crossed  by  a  ferry)  upwards  of  a  mile 
wide.  Havre-de-grace  is  built  on  a  beautiful  plain ;  but  it  i$  sub- 
ject to  fever  and  ague,  and  is  not  thriving.  The  banks  of  the  ri- 
ver to  the  northward  are  romantic  and  beautiful.  Tlic  country  im- 
proves towards  Philadelphia,  and  the  road  passes  through  Wilming- 
ton, a  fine  thriving  town,  formerly  noticed.  We  arrived  in  Phila- 
delphia at  7  o'clock,  having  travelled  103  miles  in  IG  hours;  which 
was  great  despatch,  when  we  consider  the  nature  of  the  road.  Next 
(lay  I  set  out  for  New  York  by  the  steam-boat,  and  I  arrived  the 
day  following,  without  meeting  with  any  material  adventure. 


CHAPTER  LXII. 

Xew  Yorkj — Itariton  river, — Delaxvare  river, — Philadelphia. 

H.AVING  a  good  deal  of  business  to  arrange  before  I  could  sqK 
out  on  my  journey,  I  was  detained  on  Long  Island  till  the  begin- 
ning of  August,  and  I  devoted  part  of  my  time  to  digest  my  plan 
of  travels  as  follows; 

THE    ROUTE. 

To  Philadelphia — Cross  the  mountains  to  Pittsburg — Sail  down 
the  Ohio  to  the  falls — Cross  through  Kentucky  by  Lexington  to 
Limestone — Cross  the  Ohio,  and  pass  through  the  state  of  Ohio, 
by  Zanesville,  to  the  mouth  of  Cayhoga  river,  on  Lake  Erie — Tra- 
vel along  the  banks  of  Lake  Erie  to  its  east  end — Travel  along  the 
banks  of  the  Niagara  river  to  the  falls,  and  thence  to  Lake  Ontario 
—Travel  from  thence  to  Batavia — and  return  to  New  York  in  any 
way  that  circumstances  may  direct. 

In  fixing  upon  my  route,  one  principal  object  was  kept  in  view, 
namely,  to  take  the  several  land-offices  of  the  United  States,  and 
that  of  the  Holland  company,  in  my  way. 

INQUIRIES   TO   BE   MADE    DURING   THE    JOURNEY. 

IsL  As  to  the  aspect  of  the  country,  soil,  stratum  under  the  soil, 

and  minerals. 
2d.  As  to  lakes,  rivers,  creeks,  springs,  mineraKsprings,  and  swamps. 
3d.  As  to  natural  timber,  vegetable  substances,  plants,  and  herbs. 
ith.  As  to  climate,  seasons,  health,  and  appearance  of  the  inhabitants. 
5th.  As  to  beasts,  birds,  reptiles,  insects,  and  fishes. 


'mm 


;iraii! 


292  TRAVELS    IM 

6tli.  As  to  commonccment  of  settlement,  inhabitants  where  from 
manners  and  eustoms,  oecupations,  religious  and  political  opj. 
nions,  education  nnd  science,  civil  jurisprudence. 

7th.  As  to  cities,  villages,  farm-houses  ond  style  of  building. 

8th.  As  to  agriculture,  mechanics,  manufactures,  and  comnicrcp. 

9th.  As  to  roads,  bridges,  canuls,  travelling  accommodatiui]  anJ 
charges. 

10th.  As  to  value  of  land — of  stock— of  labour — of  provisions— of 
materials  for  building  ond  manufacturing. 

1 1th.  As  to  what  classes  are  best  adapted  to  the  country. 

12th  As  to  what  manufactures  can  l)c  establiiihed  to  the  greatest  ad- 
vantage. 

IN{^UIRI£S  TO   BE   MADE    IN    TOWNS   AND   VILLAGES. 

1st.  As  to  the  date  of  settlement. 

2d.  As  to  number  of  houses  nnd  inhabitants. 

3d.  As  to  size  and  quality  of  the  buildings. 

4th.  As  to  public  buildings. 

5th.  As  to  taverns  and  stores. 

6th.  As  to  size  and  price  of  lots. 

7th.  As  to  house  rent,  prices  of  fuel  and  provisions. 

8th.  As  to  professions  exercised  and  manufactures  established. 

9th.  As  to  whether  there  be  an  opening  for  any  of  these,  or  any  other. 

Having  all  my  arrangements  completed,  I  set  out  from  Loni; 
Island  on  the  6th  of  August,  1811,  and  lodged  in  New  York  all 
night  at  the  house  of  a  friend. 

August  7th.  I  took  my  passage  by  the  steam-boat,  and  at  five 
minutes  past  seven  the  boat  started  from  the  wharf,  with  upwards 
of  70  passengers.  This  is  one  of  the  most  useful  establishments 
that  has  ever  been  attempted  in  America,  and  is  remarkably  well 
calculated  for  the  American  waters,  many  of  which  are  of  great  \m»- 
nitiule*  The  patentees  deserve  great  cretlit  for  their  exertions ;  ihtv 
have  spared  no  expense  to  render  the  works  complete ;  and  so  well 
are  the  boats  managed,  that  a  person  can  travel  often  from  100  to 
200  miles  in  24  hours,  and  have  as  comfortable  boarding  and  lodg- 
ing all  the  way  as  ho  could  have  in  the  best  tavern  in  New  York. 
The  preference  which  is  given  to  these  boats  above  every  other  con- 
vovanco  is  a  proof  of  their  utility ;  and  the  chance  is  that  they  will 
be(U)mc  universal  through  the  country.  There  are  now  five  on  tlie 
North  river,  one  on  the  llariton,  one  on  the  Delaware,  one  oa  Lake 
Champlain,  and  one  is  building  at  Pittsburg. 


)rovisioiis— of 


NEW    JERSEY.  293 

We  passed  the  several  fortification  i  in  the  harbour,  vhich  wen* 
nil  in  a  state  of  great  forwarclnesg.  Ono  of  them,  Castle  Williams, 
is  said  to  be  one  of  the  best  constructeil  forts  in  the  world,  anil  quite 
impn^nable.  The  United  Jbitatcs  frigate  and  Argus  gun-brig  were 
Ivin^  at  anchor  in  the  bay. 

\t  eight  o'clock  we  reached  Staten  Island,  and  took  the  passage 
betwixt  it  and  new  Jersey,  called  the  Kills,  where  the  tide  runs  with 
!rri:it  velocity.  We  passed  several  fishing  vessels,  and  many  small 
traders ;  and  at  nine  o'clock  were  opposite  to  Newark  bay,  where 
wc  had  a  fine  view  up  the  country.  To  the  west  of  this  is  Eli/abeth- 
town  point,  well  known  in  the  history  of  the  American  war;  and 
here  the  remains  of  the  fortifications  are  still  to  be  seen.  At  12 
o'clock  we  rcachetl  Aniboy. 

The  whole  length  of  the  channel  between  Staten  Island  and  New 
Jersey  is  2+  miles,  and  its  average  breadth  about  800  yards.  It  is 
navijfable  for  small  craft  only,  being  in  some  places  not  more  than 
three  feet  deep  at  low  water.  It  abounds  wiih  fish,  and  has  valua- 
Me  fisheries  of  shad,  herrings,  drum,  black-fish,  clams,  and  oysters. 

An  boy  is  a  small  place,  containing  81.5  inhabitants.  It  is  pret- 
tily sit!iated,  and  is  a  place  of  considerable  resort  in  the  summer 
season,  as  sea-bathing  quarters.  An  elegant  hotel  and  boarding- 
house  is  situated  on  the  height  above  the  town,  which  must  com- 
mand a  very  extensive  and  variegated  view  of  the  country. 

We  now  entered  Rariton  river,  a  slow  muddy  stream ;  but  con- 
taining a  good  supply  of  fish.  There  arc  large  salt  meadows  on  its 
banks ;  but  the  land  appears  poor,  and  the  crops  very  scant,  until 
within  a  few  miles  of  Brunswick,  where  the  soil  improves.  The  ri- 
ver contracts  here,  and  the  banks  are  steep  and  rocky. 

Ikunswick  is  in  a  thriving  state. 

Here  we  had  to  travel  over  land  to  Bordentown,  33  miles,  and 
our  conjpany  being  pretty  numerous,  we  filled  three  public  stages 
besides  some  private  carriages.  We  travelled  by  the  new  turnpike 
road,  which  ia  not  much  settled ;  but  the  timber  denotes  good  land  : 
and  such  is  the  advantage  of  the  public  road,  that  it  will  probably 
he  all  settled  up  in  the  course  of  a  few  years. 

At  Princeton,  IG  miles  from  Brunswick,  there  is  an  elegant 
view,  and  the  country  is  rich  and  well  improved,  which  continues 
to  be  the  case  1 1  miles,  to  Trenton,  the  capital  of  New  Jersey,  con- 
taining 3000  inhabitants.  Here  we  left  the  post  road  and  travelled 
hy  a  very  rough  path  to  Bordentown.      Day-light  failed  us,  and 


-•''tiffin™. 


S94  TRAVRLS   IN 

bcinp^  pretty  much  futiguecl,  I  fell  asleep.  I  henrti  n  confuMti  noi^o 
in  my  sleep,  and,  starting  up,  I  felt  a  motion  as  i(  I  had  bciii  flyini; 
but  1  had  not  a  moment  to  consider  ^vhat  it  mi^lit  be, — thr  stui,'r 
fell  down  upon  its  broad-side  with  a  crash,  and  I  found  niy>cll aid 
eleven  more  floundering  like  so  many  fishes  in  a  net.  Luckily  tlitrc 
was  nobody  materially  hurt.  An  old  woman  who  was  sitting  next 
to  mc  complained  of  being  brui.sed  a  little;  and  some  of  tiicgcn- 
tiemen  had  got  their  faces  somewhat  scratched.  I  met  with  nu  o- 
ther  injury  than  a  slight  sprain  in  my  arm. 

This  accident  arose  in  consequence  of  the  driver  getting  drunk, 
and  in  his  frolic  trying  to  pass  one  of  the  other  stages ;  but  lir 
paid  dearly  for  his  folly,  for  two  of  his  teeth  were  knocked  out  b) 
the  fall :  and  one  of  the  proprietors  being  along  with  us,  Iieturid 
him  ofl'  on  the  spot,  and  taking  the  reins  himself,  drove  us  to  lior- 
dentown,  where  we  sto)>ped  all  night. 

Bordentown  is  a  handsome  little  place,  situated  on  a  height  above 
the  Delaware,  from  whence  there  is  one  of  the  finest  views  I  hare 
ever  seen.  Our  accommodations  here  were  very  good,  and  ik 
charges  reasonable.* 

August  8th.  The  steam-boat  stalled  at  7  o'clock,  and  continu- 
ed her  course  towards  Philadelphia,  at  the  rate  of  seven  miles  an 
hour.  The  river  is  very  beautiful,  and  the  land  on  each  side  ap- 
pears fertile,  and  is  well  improved.  At  half  past  eight  o'clock  wc 
reached  Bristol,  a  thriving  little  town,  on  the  north  bank,  for- 
merly noticed ;  and  nearly  opposite,  on  the  Jersey  side,  is  Burling- 
ton, also  a  thriving  little  town.  The  steam -boat  stops  at  boili 
places  for  the  accommodation  of  passengers,  but  the  delay  is  not 
great.  From  Burlington  to  Philadelphia  is  20  miles,  and  the  view 
is  handsome  all  the  way.  Near  Philadelphia,  a  friend  pointed  out 
the  situation  on  the  bank  '>f  the  river  called  Point-no-pomt,  alludoJ 
to  by  Thomas  Paine  in  his  answer  to  Mr.Burke.  At  half  past  12  vc 
reached  the  city  of  Philadelphia.  Our  company  during  the  pussa;;e| 
wef every  agreeable. 

immediately  on  my  arrival  1  called  at  the  Pittsburg  stage-office, 
and  learning  that  the  stage  was  to  start  next  morning  at  four  o'clocU 
I  secured  my  seat,  and  spent  the  evening  with  my  friends. 

•  For  a  table  of  the  expenses  on  this  journey,  and  a  register  fif  the  weather,  see  Ap- 
pendix, Nos.  1  and  2. 


KSNSYLVANIA. 


«9.> 


CIIAPTEH  LXIII. 

rhHad^phiOf — LancaJ  '  —Tlurnfl/Urg — S/iijjpentturgt 
— Chamber  slmrg. 

August  9ll».  At  4  o'clock  in  the  morning  tlic  atngc  startcil. 
The  morning  was  ibggy  and  cool,  the  thermontt'trr  being  ubout 
«i)a.  The  stage  was  u  roomy  vehicle,  capable  ut' containing  12 
ixTsons,  but  there  were  only  three  or  four  passengers,  Inniiiles  niy- 
v:\i  The  horses  were  noble  looking  animals,  the  best  I  had  yet 
teen  in  the  United  States;  and  I  learned  that  Pennsylvania  had  a 
very  fine  breed,  and  we  would  have  such  horses  uli  the  way  to 
i*i;ubiirg. 

From  Hiiladelphift  to  the  Buck  tarern,  10  miles  to  the  westward, 
the  country  is  agreeably  uneven,  and  well  wooded;  nnd  the  soil 
pretty  fertile.  It  abounds  with  small  streams,  which,  I  imagine, 
would  be  very  favourable  for  the  erection  of  manufactories.  Tho 
natural  timber  is  principally  oak,  chesnut,  and  hickory.  It  is  a 
good  country  for  grazing,  and  raises  grain  and  vegetables  in  abun- 
dance. The  lands  are  all  taken  up  and  improved ;  the  price  is  from 
To  to  120  dollars  per  acre. 

We  travelled  10  miles,  through  a  country  nearly  similar,  when 
the  road  descended,  by  a  turning,  into  a  very  rich  valley,  which 
presents  a  most  animated  prospect.  Mere  we  saw  rich  fields,  sub- 
stantial farm-houses,  fine  flocks  and  herds,  and  the  whole  face  of 
nature  smiling  around  us.  The  view  is  terminated,  to  the  north, 
by  pretty  lofty  hills.  The  houses  here  arc  mostly  built  of  stone, 
and  we  were  told  the  inhabitants  were  principally  quakers,  and  of 
German  extraction. 

Our  road  continued  through  this  valley,  10  miles,  to  Downings- 
I  town,  where  we  crossed  the  east  branch  of  the  Brandy  wine  crei'k, 
here  a  handsome  little  stream,    and  soon  after  we  ascended  Gap 

ill.  This  is  a  high  tract  of  country,  the  lands  rather  barren  ;  it 
I  *as  originally  settled  by  emigrants  from  Ireland.  The  value  of 
I  land  is  from   25  to   40  dollars.     We  travelled   about  nine  miles 

>ng  this  high  land,  when  we  descended,  crossed  the  west  brauch 
of  the  Brandywine  creek,  and  entered  a  fine  champaign  country, 
l«ith  a  limestone  bottom. 

lliis  country  is  elegantly  improved,  and  is  very  fertile,  produq- 


296 


IRWELS    IN 


n 


£{■ 


ing  a  great  variety  of  grain,  particularly  wheat,  from  which  flour 
is  manufactured  for  sale  U  a  great  extent  annually.  Tim  tract  h 
very  extensive,  and  is  one  of  the  best  settled  in  the  United  States, 
The  faruis  are  every  where  well  cultivated,  and  the  people  appear- 
ed to  be  in  prosperous  circumstances.  They  arc  said  to  be  niostlv 
of  German  descent.  The  price  of  land  here  is  from  75  to  130  dol- 
lars per  acre,  increasing  as  you  approach  Lancaster. 

We  reached  Lancaster  at  5  o'clock  in  the  evening,  and  only  stop- 
ped to  change  horses ;  so  that  I  could  see  but  little  of  the  town. 
Indeed,  my  original  plan  was  not  to  make  any  minute  inquiry,  un- 
til 1  should  reach  Pittsburg. 

Lancaster  is  situated  in  a  fertile  plain,  62  miles  to  the  westward 
of  Philadelphin.  It  is  built  on  a  regular  plan,  the  streets  crossing 
one  another  at  right  angles.  The  houses  are  mostly  constructed  of 
brick,  but  some  few  are  of  stone.  The  inhabitants  amount  to  5405, 
and  are  mostly  of  German  origin.  The  public  buildings  are  seven 
places  for  public  worship,  a  court-house,  jail,  and  market-house; 
and  there  is  a  poor-house,  a  <^ery  humane  institution,  situated  uu 
the  Conestoga  creek,  a  mile  Irom  the  town.  The  principal  manu- 
factures are  fire-arms,  particularly  rifle-barrelled  guns ;  and  there 
are  several  tan  yards,  distilleries,  and  breweries. 

This  is,  at  present,  the  seat  ol  government  for  Pensylvaniu,but, 
by  a  late  act  of  the  legislature,  it  is  to  be  removed  to  Harrisburg: 
and  39,000  dollars  have  been  appropriated  to  erect  public  building^ 
there. 

"We  left  Lancaster  at  5  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  travelled  bv| 
a  good  r6ad,  18  miles,  to  Eiizabethtown,    where  we  stopped  all 
night.     The  soil  continues  good,  upon  a  limestone  bottom,  all  the 
way  to  this  place.     In  our  iourney  we  had  a  very  fine  view  of  tliel 
hi »h  lands  to  the  south-west.     Eiizabethtown  consists  of  30  or  W 
houses,  mostly  built  of  wood. 

August  10th.  The  stage  started  this  morning  at  half  past  3| 
o'clock,  and  was  full  of  passengers.   The  morning  was  tiamp  anilj 
foffffV.     The  thermometer  stood  at  65°.     A  little  alter  leavin( 
Middleton,  we  crossed  through  the  Conewago  hills,  the  soil  jwonj 
the  country  rough,  and  the  road  very  bad.      Four  miles  fro 
Eiizabethtown,  we  passed  Conewago  creek ;    and  four  :niles  fur-| 
ther,  we  parsed  the  Swatawra  creek,  and  reached  Middleton ; 
small  place,  consisting  of  about  100  houses,  mostly  coustructcd  i 
-logs. 


PENVSYLVANIA.  897 

We  were  now  on  the  banks  of  the  noble  SusquchannaK  river, 
along  which  we  had  a  very  agreeable  ride,  by  a  good  road,  to. 
Harrisburg.  The  view  is  said  to  be  beautiful,  but  it  was  obscured 
by  the  fog ;  and  I  was  sorry  to  find  that  the  inhabitants  had  been 
3  little  afflicted  with  fever  and  ague.  This  disease  is  very  common 
on  the  American  rivers,  before  the  country  is  settled  and  drained. 
On  this  river,  it  is  most  common  on  the  east  side ;  a  circumstance 
easily  Accounted  for,  by  reflecting  that  the  most  prevalent  winds 
are  from  the  south-west,  which  naturally  blow  the  marsh  effluvia, 
that  collects  on  the  margin  of  the  river,  to  the  eastward.  This 
disease  will  be  ot  no  long  duration  on  the  Susquehannah.  The 
country  is  uneven  on  its  surface,  and  has  a  limestone  bottom ;  and 
it  is  settling  up  very  fast,  so  that  in  a  short  time  it  roust  be  cleared 
and  drained,  and  all  sickness  of  this  kind  will  disappear. 

Harrisburo  is  situated  on  the  east  branch  of  the  Susquehan- 
nah, 97  miles  from  Philadelphia.  It  is  handsomely  laid  out  on 
the  plan  of  Philadelphia,  having  four  streets  running  parallel  with 
the  river,  named  Front,  Second,  and  so  on ;  and  these  are  cross- 
ed by  others  at  right  angles,  called  Mulberry,  Chet^nut,  Market, 
Walnut,  Locust,  and  Pine.  The  houses  are  mostly  built  of  brick, 
and  have  a  good  appearance,  and  the  town  is  rapidly  encreasing, 
particularly  since  the  act  of  legislature  constituting  it  the  seat  of 
government  for  the  state.  The  inhabitants  of  the  township  a- 
mount  to  2287.  There  is  an  elegant  court-house  and  stone  jail 
built,  and  the  public  buildings  for  the  accommodation  of  the  state 
government,  now  erecting,  will  be  the  most  elegant  structures  in 
the  state.  Harrisburg  was  laid  out  in  1785,  and  has  made  pro- 
gress ever  since ;  and  from  its  commanding  and  central  situation, 
it  will,  in  all  probability,  become  one  of  the  largest  inland  towns 
in  America.  We  were  informed  that  some  lots  were  lately  sold 
here  for  2000  dollars ;  and  land  sells  in  the  neighbourhood  for 
from  80  to  100  dollars  per  acre. 

After  breakfast  we  crossed  the  Susqueliannah  river  in  a  flat  boat, 
poled  by  four  men.  The  river  is  here  nearly  a  mile  wide,  and 
was,  when  we  crossed  it,  from  three  to  five  feet  deep,  with  a  pretty 

rough  gravelly  bottom ;  the  current  was  swift,  and  the  water  pure. 
I  was  informed  that  we  were  now  between  two  ranges  of  hills, 

called  the  North  and  South  Mountains,  but  the  day  continued  so 

foggy  that  I  could  not  perceive  them.     The  country  immediately 

J8  .  . 


i,  'III 


-.111 


u  m 


•  >  f, 


2f93 


TRAVELS    IN 


round  us  wus  fertile,  anci  well  cultivated ;  and  the  climate  was  said 
io  be  quite  healthy  on  this  side  of  the  river. 

We  travelled  15  miles  to  Carlisle,  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
which  land  sells  for  from  70  to  120  dollars  per  acre,  and  the 
country  is  well  settled  and  improved;  a  considerable  part  oftlic 
produce  here  is  hemp. 

Cahusle  is  situated  on  a  large  plain,  having  somewhat  the  ap- 
pearance of  Lancaster.  It  is  regularly  laid  out,  with  streets  cros- 
sing one  another  at  right  angles ;  and  contains  by  the  last  ccnsu* 
Qj^Ol  inhabitants.  The  houses  are  partly  built  of  brick  and  partly 
of  wood,  and  have  a  very  respectable  appearance.  The  public 
buildings  arc,  a  college,  a  court-house,  jail,  and  five  places  for 
public  wor>rhip.  The  college  is  named  Dickenson,  in  honour  of  a 
gentleman  of  that  name,  who  was  it  founder,  and  is  esteemed  an 
excellent  seminary  of  learning.  Its  funds  are  about  10,000  dol- 
lars in  certificates,  and  the  state  made  a  grant  in  support  of  it,  of 
1 0,000  acres  of  land.  A  philosophical  apparatus,  and  library, 
consisting  of  nearly  3000  volumes,  are  attached  to  it.  Dr.  Ncsbit, 
u  Scots  gentleman  of  high  estimation,  was  several  years  prcsi- 
ticnt  of  this  college ;  but  he  died  some  years  ago.  I  learned  that 
Mr.  Thomas  Cooper,  the  friend  and  correspondent  of  the  late 
Dr.  Priestley,  was  to  be  appointed  one  of  the  prolessors  ;  and  from 
his  well-known  scientific  abilities  and  industry,  I  have  no  doubt 
but  he  will  be  a  great  acquisition.  There  are  a  principal  and  three 
professors,  and  tlie  students  amount  to  above  one  hundred. 

After  leaving  Carlisle  the  day  cleared  up  a  little,  and  vre  had 
a  partial  view  of  the  mountains.  The  valley  is  about  13  or  14 
miles  broad,  is  very  fertile,  and  abounds  with  beautiful  views. 
"We  passed  several  small  streams,  which  I  was  told  run  into  two 
creeks,  between  which  we  travelled,  the  one  called  Conedogwiuet, 
the  other  Yellow  Breeches.  The  one  rises  in  the  North,  the  other 
in  the  South  Mountains,  and  both  run  a  north-east  course  to  the 
Susquehannah,  and  are  very  useful,  as  well  as  ornamental,  to 
this  charming  valley.  Nine  miles  from  Carlisle  we  stopped  for 
dinner,  near  the  foot  of  the  South  Mountains,  of  which  we  had 
a  beautiful  view  ;  and  our  view  was  equally  pleasing  in  the  interior  i 
of  the  house,  where  were  a  number  of  fine  young  damsels,  whoi^e 
rosy  cheeks  I  considered  an  indication  of  a  healthy  country. 

From  hence  we  travelled  10  miles  to  Shippensburg;  the  country  I 
is  nearly  the  same  as  already  mentioned,  but  in  many  places  ib*  I 


imatc  was  said 


PENNSYLVANIA.  299 

linic«tone  jutted  out  of  the  road,  nnd  rendered  out  travelling  very 
rou^b.  Near  Sliippensburg  we  passed  some  pine  trees,  the  fiBst  I 
had  seen  since  I  left  Philadelphia,  but  the  tract  was  of  no  great 
extent.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  Shippensburg  the  land  is  good, 
and  sells  for  about  50  dollars  per  acre.  Wood  land  is  considered 
the  most  valuable.  Shippensburg  is  but  a  small  place.  The  whole 
township,  b}r  last  census,  contained  only  1159  inhabitants;  but  it 
is  thriving,  and  they  are  establishing  manufactories,  particu]arl|r 
of  cotton,  of  which  the  carriage  is  only  half  a  cent  per  pound  from 
Baltimore.  There  are  a  variety  of  churches,  and  schools  are 
plenty;  the  expence  of  tuition  is  about  two  dollars  per  quarter. 

The  limestome  bottom  continues,  and  the  soil  and  state  ofci^- 
tivation  are  nearly  the  same  the  next  1 1  miles  to  Chambcrsburg, 
where  we  slopped  for  the  night. 


CHAPTER  LXIV. 

Chambersburgy — M'Connelstffwn, — Bedford. 
I  HAD  travelled  a  good  part  of  the  way  through  this  valley  with 
a  Mr.  Lindsay,  one  of  the  proprietors  of  the  stage,  to  whom  I  was 
principally  indebted  for  my  information  by  the  way,  and,  as  I 
lodged  at  his  house,  I  was  able  to  make  an  important  addition  to 
my  stock  of  knowledge  regarding  this  part  of  the  country. 

Chambersburg  is  the  capital  of  Franklin  county,  ami  is  situ- 
ated on  the  eastern  branch  of  Conecocheague  creek,  in  the  middle 
of  the  valley  between  the  North  and  South  Mountains.  It  con- 
sists mostly  of  one  long  and  pretty  broad  street,  and  contains 
nearly  2000  inhabitants.  The  buildings  are  partly  of  brick  and 
partly  of  wood  ;  but  brick  buildings  are  now  the  most  common, 
and  there  are  some  of  stone.  The  public  buildings  are  a  court- 
house, jail,  and  three  or  four  places  for  public  worship.  The 
schools  are  numerous,  and  education  is  from  two  to  five  dollars 
per  quarter.  There  are  numerous  manufactories  in  this  place  nnd 
lis  neighbourhood,  particularly  on  Conecocheague  creek,  which 
drives  two  grist-mills,  two  paper-mills,  two  oil-mills,  and  one  I'ul- 
ling-mill.  There  are  several  carding  machines,  and  spinning  jen- 
nies, and  two  stocking  frames.  The  price  of  working  a  pair  of 
stockings  is  about  half  a  dollar.  There  are  tliree  weekly  news- 
[»pers  published,  besides  one  in  the  German  language. 


* 


,lp,  a. 


P^*i 


too  TRAVBLS   IN 

Tltif  valley  ii  considered  the  moat  important  in  America.  It 
extends  from  the  Hudson  river  south-west  to  Tennessee,  and  i«  of 
various  breadths,  from  12  to  25  miles.  It  is  all  on  a  bed  of  lime- 
atone,  and  is  very  fertile  ;  the  northern  part  raising  every  gort  of 
grain,  with  iruits  and  hemp ;  and  towards  the  south,  in  addition 
to  these,  it  raises  cotton.  It  abounds  with  iron  ore,  and  otiitr 
minerals,  and  mineral  springs.  It  is  well  watered  with  numeroui 
Important  rivers,  and  a  great  number  of  flourishing  towns  arc 
situated  on  it,  of  which  the  most  important  are,  Carlisle,  Sliip. 
pensburg,  Strasburg,  Chambersburg,  Messersburg,  and  Green- 
castle,  in  Pennsylvania ;  Hag;.'rstown,  Williamsport,  and  Sliarps- 
burg,  in  Maryland ;  and  ^iartinsburg,  Winchester,  Newmarket, 
Staunton,  Fincastle,  and  Austinville,  in  Virginia.  In  that  part 
of  it  situated  in  Pennsylvania,  land  sells  for  from  20  to  100  dol- 
lars per  acre;  horses  20  to  200  dollars;  cows  about  20  dollars- 
The  climate  is  excellent  the  whole  length  of  the  valley.  There 
arc  few  slaves  in  this  place ;  there  are  only  87  in  Franklin  county. 

I  now  began  to  get  acquainted  with  some  of  my  fellow-travellers. 
Two  of  them  were  from  Philadelphia,  bound  to  Bedford  springs; 
one  from  Virginia,  bound  for  Chilicothe ;  and  here  we  picked  up 
a  sort  of  a  Frenchman,  bound  ilie  Lord  hums  whither,  for  it  ap- 
peared he  did  not  know  himself.  With  this  company  the  stage 
started  from  Chambersburg,  on  Sunday  the  11th  of  August,  at 
8  o'clock  in  the  morning.  By  the  post-office  regulations  the  stages 
are  not  required  to  travel  here  on  Sunday,  but  they  must  carrj' 
the  mail  from  Philadelphia  to  Pittsburg  in  six  ordinary  days ;  so 
when  the  sabbath  intervenes,  they  generally  make  a  sliort  journey 
to  lighten  those  of  the  remaining  days.  We  were  to  travel  this 
day  22  miles  to  M^Connelstown. 

About  a  mile  from  Chambersburg  we  ascended  a  considerable 
hill,  from  whence  we  had  a  very  extensive  view  of  tlie  valley  and 
distant  mountains.  Nine  miles  from  Chambersburg,  near  the 
foot  of  the  mountains,  we  stopped  to  see  a  singular  curiosity, 
which  we  were  told  was  taken  out  of  a  cave  in  the  North  Moun- 
tain, about  two  miles  distant  It  was  a  stone  exactly  in  the  form 
of  a  turtle,  and  little  doubt  remained  on  my  mind  but  it  was 
a  petrifaction,  though  I  had  not  time  to  make  the  necessary 
inquiries  concerning  it.  Two  miles  from  thence  we  stopped  to 
change,  horses,  at  the  foot  of  the  first  mountain,  at  an  elegant  new 
brick  house.     The  road  winds  round  the  foot  of  this  mountain  to 


PlNNSYLVANtA. 


301 


where  a  fine  ralley  opens  to  the  northward,  in  which  runs  the 
the  west  branch  of  Conecocheague  creek,  which  having  crossed,  wc 
immediately  began  to  ascend  the  North  Mountain ;  and  now  wc 
prepared  for  a  tough  pull.  For  the  first  mile  the  ascent  was  easy^ 
but  after  this  it  was  very  steep,  and  the  road  narrow  and  exces- 
lively  rough.  I  was  puzzled  to  find  out  how  carriages  could  pass 
one  another  by  the  way :  but  the  mystery  was  solved  as  we  went 
up  the  hill.  Our  driver  kept  sounding  a  horn,  and  we  soon  came 
to  eight  or  nine  waggons  descending,  which  had  all  drawn  aside 
at  a  place  that  had  been  made  bix^ader  for  that  purpose.  The  qps- 
tom  is  for  those  in  the  ascending  carriage  to  imitate  their  situation 
by  sounding  a  horn ;  and  on  hearing  it,  those  descending  must 
wait  their  approach  at  the  first  place  they  can  pass.  The  stage, 
or  a  single  carriage,  has  seldom  any  great  difficulty ;'  but  when 
tlicre  are  a  number  of  waggons  together,  the  difficulty  is  some- 
times very  great 

About  a  mile  from  the  top  of  the  mountain  we  came  to  a  miser- 
able log-cabin,  where  the  driver  stopped  to  water  his  horses,  and 
we  stcpt  into  the  house  to  get  a  little  spirits  and  water.  We  found 
it  kept  by  an  old  woman,  with  a  son  and  two  daughters.  The 
Htuation  is  so  romantic  and  lonely  that  it  might  suit  a  hermit; 
but  this  appeared  to  be  no  hermitage.  Having  rested  a  little,  we 
pursued  our  journey  to  the  mountain's  tx3p. 

On  the  top  of  the  mountain  there  is  a  house  kept  by  a  re- 
spectable German  family,  and  here  we  again  stopped  a  short  time. 
From  hence  we  had  a  view  of  an  amazing  extent.  To  the  easl^ 
ward  we  saw  the  fertile  valley  we  had  left,  elegantly  variegated 
with  woods  and  cultivated  fields,  with  towns  and  farm-houses,  and 
roads  and  rivers ;  and  to  the  west  we  saw  piles  of  mountains,  with 
Kenery  among  them  elegantly  variegated,  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach.  We  bade  adieu  to  the  plains  for  a  time,  and  braced  up 
our  minds  as  well  as  our  bodies,  in  expectation  of  meeting  with 
many  a  shake  and  jolt,  before  we  got  from  among  the  mountains ; 
and  truly  we  had  need,  for  we  descended  by  a  path  of  two  milec 
and  a  half,  so  steep,  and  so  rough,  that  it  was  ofiten  with  difficul* 
t}-  wc  could  sit  in  the  carriage.  On  reaching  the  plain  below,  wb 
lodged  at  M'Connelstown,  before  mentioned. 

Our  Frenchman  and  Virginian  soon  became  acquainted,  and, 
thounh  it  was  the  sabbath  evening,  they  proposed  to  go  a  hunting 
'u)!,rethcr ;  but  the  landlords  to  whom  thtufy  had  applied,  put  them 


'^      ' 


{'     ' 


302 


TRAVELS    IN 


I 


■   ■       ■  ^     'P' 


'\m 


rag     ^h 

H  9 

n  H 


upon  the  wrong  scent,  and  they  returned  without  finding  any  ganjf 
to  their  lilting. 

M'CoNNELSTOWN  coulains  80  or  90  houses,  and  about  500  in- 
habitants.  The  houses  are  built  of  wood,  many  of  them  of  log?, 
but  the  town  appears  to  be  thriving.  There  are  eight  taverns  and 
seven  stores ;  and  several  manufactories  have  been  recently  esta- 
blished, particularly  a  carding  machine,  some  weaving,  and  hosi. 
cry.  Flour  sells  for  7  dollars  per  barrel,  beef  at  4  J  dollars,  and 
other  provisions  in  proportion.  Baltimore  is  the  nearest  port, 
distant  100  miles.  From  hence  to  the  Potomac  river  is  about  2j 
miles. 

Monday,  Augupt  12th,  the  stage  started  from  M'Connelstown 
at  half  past  5  o'clock.  The  morning  was  clear,  the  thermometer 
stood  at  69°.  On  leaving  the  town  we  ascended  Scrub  hill,  and 
about  a  mile  up  we  had  a  very  extensive  view  of  the  countrj, 
which  is  rough,  and  thinly  inhabited,  but  very  healthy.  Land 
sells  at  from  from  one  to  fifteen  dollars  per  acre.  After  travelling 
about  ten  miles,  we  stopped  to  breakfast,  and  immediately  aj- 
vcended  Sidling  hill.  This  chain,  though  not  so  large  as  the  North 
Mountains,  is  yet  very  magnificent  and  lofty,  and,  by  the  road, 
is  two  miles  from  bottom  to  top.  We  walked  a  considerable  way 
on  the  ascent,  and,  on  the  top,  were  rewarded  by  a  most  sublime 
view,  but  differing  materially  from  that  on  the  North  mountains, 
We  were  now  environed  by  mountains  on  all  sides.  In  descend- 
ing this  hill  to  the  westward,  we  fell  in  with  the  Strasburg  road, 
and  near  the  same  place  the  Baltimore  road  joins.  This  hill  ii 
about  1800  feet  high,  and  there  are  several  taverns  upon  it.  Con- 
nected with  this  is  Ray's  hill,  on  which  we  travelled  about  half 
a  mile,  when  we  descended  by  a  very  steep  and  rough  road,  and, 
passing  through  an  uneven  country  three  miles,  we  reached  the 
Juniata  river.  This  a  large  branch  of  the  Susquehanna!),  and 
was  noticed  in  page  130.  Here  it  is  singularly  romantic,  having 
high,  steep,  and  rugged  banks,  and  it  runs  in  a  deep  chasm  on-* 
bed  of  free-stone,  the  passage  being  remarkably  serpentine.  A 
chain  bridge  was  building,  but,  not  being  finished,  we  passed  by 
a  flat  boat.  The  piers  of  the  bridge  were  erected,  and  are  24 
feet  high ;  but  the  Ineh  were  not  at  work,  and  I  did  not  learn  the 
dimensions  of  the  other  parts. 

Having  crossed  the  Juniata,  we  ascended  a  considerable  emi- 
nence, by  a  winding  path,  and  travelled  about  a  mile  through  pret- 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


,*i03 


tv  well  cuUivatcil  fields,  to  where  vvc  siiw  ii  most  sin<^u1ar  curiosity. 
The  river  makes  n  bend  so  remarkable  that  wc  couUl  stand  on  a  neck 
oflaiul  and  pitch  a  stone  over  the  bank,  on  each  side;  while  the 
course  of  the  river  round  the  bend  is  nearly  five  miles.  The  banks 
arc  very  lofty,  and  clad  from  top  to  bottom  with  various  kinds  of 
trees  and  shrubbery. 

\Vc  travelled  along  tlie  banks  of  this  romantic  river,  almost  con- 
itantly  in  sight  of  it,  eight  miles,  when  we  passed  a  little  village  call- 
ed Bloody  Run,  in  commemoration  of  the  massacre  of  a  body  of  mi- 
litia by  the  Indians,  soon  after  Braddock's  defeat.  We  passed  a 
number  of  waggons  in  our  progress,  and  sometimes  with  consider- 
able difficulty,  for  tlie  road  was  often  very  narrow,  and  at  one  place 
proceeds  along  the  banks  of  the  river  on  the  side  of  a  hill  by  a  pas- 
mc  so  terrific  that  I  had  some  apprehensions  for  my  })crsonal  safe- 
ty. We  were  told,  indeed,  that  a  waggon  had  been  here  overturn- 
ed and  destroyed,  together  with  the  driver  and  horses,  some  time 
before. 

The  country  becomes  more  and  more  romantic  towards  Bedford, 
six  miles  from  which  we  passed  betwixt  the  Warrior  and  Tussey's 
mountains.  Here  I  was  informed  by  one  of  the  gentlemen  from 
Philadelphia  that  he  had  been  encamped  near  this  place  when  the 
militia  were  called  out  in  the  time  of  Mr.  AJams'  administration, 
to  suppress  the  riots  in  this  part  of  the  country,  emphatically  called 
"  the  hot  water  war."  The  road  continues  very  rough  till  within 
a  mile  of  Bedford,  where  we  passed  a  handsome  little  stream  called 
Dunning's  creek,  by  a  bridge ;  after  which  the  road  improves,  and 
there  are  handsomely  cultivated  fields  all  the  way  to  the  town, 
which  we  reached  at  5  o'clock. 

As  Bedford  had  become  a  notable  watering-place,  we  hired  the 
driver  to  carry  us  to  the  springs,  about  half  a  mile  distant.     Here 
we  found  a  vast  concourse  of  people  collected  f  om  dilFercnt  places, 
lome  of  them  very  distant.  The  principal  spring  issues  in  great  pro- 
fusion from  a  rock,  and  appears  to  be  stronglv  impregnated  with 
magnesia,  and  a  little  sulphur ;    so  that  it  is  unquestionably  me- 
dicinal, and  very  good  for  some  complaints  :  but  from  the  mode  in 
V'liich  it  is  used,  it  may  admit  of  doubt  whether  it  does  most  harm 
oi"  good.    It  is  indiscriminately  used  for  every  complaint;  and  is  of- 
[  tea  drank  in  such  profusion  as  must  assuredly  tend  to  disorganize 
I  the  stomach,  and  bring  on  a  flatulency.      I  drank  about  a  pint, 
I  ''Iiich  I  found  to  be  "  quantum  suff. ,"  but  I  was  told,  indeed  I 


■<,  •t-m. 


iUi<*i^ 


30^ 


TRAVbLS    IN 


found  it  printed  in  a  book,  that  from  two  to  thirty  halt>pinu  wai 
the  usual  quantity,  an  hour  before  breakfast ;  and  some  drank  fifu 
half  pints.  There  is  a  bathing-house  handsomely  fitted  up  in  the 
immediate  neighbourhood  of  the  spring,  and  is  supplied  with  water 
from  it ;  but  I  presume  pure  water  would  be  equally  efficacious  for 
bathing.  Adjoining  the  spring,  in  a  hollow,  is  a  large  buildirig  fit- 
ted up  as  a  boarding-house,  where  the  charge  is  about  five  or  six 
dollars  per  week.  The  situation  is,  upon  the  whole,  very  romantic, 
and  truly  delightful. 

On  my  return  to  the  town  I  spent  a  very  agreeable  evening  with 
Mr.  Tod,  a  member  of  the  state  legislature,  from  whom  I  received 
a  great  deal  of  local  information. 

Bedford  is  the  capital  of  Bedford  county,  and  has  a  very  roman- 
tic situation  among  the  mountains.  It  is  in  a  thriving  condition, 
and  contains  5i7  inhabitants.  It  was  originally  composed  of  log 
and  frame  buildings ;  but  these  are  now  giving  way  to  brick  houses: 
so  that  I  think  Bedford  is  likely  to  become  a  very  handsome,  as  it 
will  always  be  a  very  romantic  little  place.  The  public  buildings 
are  a  court-house  and  presbyterian  meeting-house ;  and  there  are 
four  taverns  and  seven  stores  in  the  place.  There  are  several  schools; 
and  a  weekly  newspa})er  is  printed.  The  people  manufacture  the 
greater  part  of  their  own  clothing. 

The  land  in  the  neighbourhood  is  fertile ;  but,  being  immediat^ 
ly  surrounded  with  mountains,  the  quantity  of  arable  land  is  small, 
and  sells  at  from  ten  to  twenty  dollars  per  acre. 

We  lodged  at  Moore's  tavern,  where  the  accommodations  were 
very  poor.  I  was  shoved  into  a  little  dirty  apartment,  somewhat 
like  a  passage,  the  window  broken  to  pieces,  and  the  bed— —of  it 
X  had  best  say  nothing.  I  lay  down  without  undressing,  and  wii 
very  glad  when  called  on  to  take  my  seat  in  the  stage  at  3  o'clock 
in  the  morning. 


CHAPTER  LXV. 

Somersetf — Laurel  HiU, — Chesrtut  Ridge. 

Tuesday,  August  ISth,  on  taking  my  place  in \thc  stage,  I 
found  we  were  to  have  a  numerous  company,  principally  people 
from  Pittsburg,  returning  from  the  springs.     Qne  of  theni)  avcrjf 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


305 


stout  robust  looking  man,  with  a  thundering  voice,  was  giving  the 
necessary  orders ;  and  I  began  to  b«  afraid  that  wc  would  have  a 
troublesome  neighbour  :  but  I  was  glad  to  find,  afterwards,  that  I 
had  miscalculated, — for  I  found  him  to  be  one  of  the  most  civil  and 
discreet  gentlemen  that  I  had  met  with  in  all  my  travels.  Besides 
the  company  in  the  stage  (and  it  was  full,)  there  was  a  cavalcade  of 
four  or  five  on  horseback ;  and  being  all  bound  for  Pittsburg,  we 
made  a  i)retty  respectable  party. 

Being  all  fixed,  (to  use  an  American  expression,)  we  started  at 
half  past  3  o'clock.  The  morning  was  foggy  ;  but  it  cleared  up  by 
6  o'clock,  when  the  thermometer  stood  at  50°.  We  twice  crossetl 
a  branch  of  the  Juniata  river,  on  which  a  number  of  valuable  mills 
arc  erected.  Between  four  and  five  miles  from  Bedford,  the  road 
forks,  the  north  branch  passing  in  nearly  a  direct  line  to  Grccns- 
burg.  We  took  the  south  branch,  which  passes  by  Somerset.  The 
country  is  rough,  but  tolerably  well  cultivated,  and  raises  much 
more  grain  than  is  sufficient  to  supply  the  internal  demand.  The 
market  for  flour  is  Baltimore,  and  the  expense  of  carriage  thither 
is  about  one  dollar  and  a  half  per  barrel. 

We  stopped  for  breakfast  1 4  miles  from  Bedford  ;  and  here  I 
jKrccived  that  they  made  a  dificrencein  the  charge  between  lhej)as<- 
sengers  in  the  stage  and  those  on  horseback :  the  former  paying  31^ 
cents,  the  latter  only  25  cents.  I  inquired  into  the  reason  of  it, 
and  was  informed  it  was  in  consequence  of  being  obliged  to  prepare 
victuals  for  a  certain  number  of  passengers  by  the  stage,  whether 
they  ciune  or  not ;  in  consequence  of  which  there  is  a  considerable 
loss  of  time,  and  some  waste  of  victuals ;  whereas,  in  the  other  case, 
they  know  to  a  certainty  what  they  have  to  prepare.  The  regulation 
is  reasonable. — After  breakfast  we  travelled  four  miles  over  an  in- 
ferior chain  of  hills,  called  Dry  ridge,  the  road  rough,  the  soil  poor, 
and  the  views  numerous  and  extensive.  At  11  o'clock  we  arrived  at 
at  the  foot  of  the  Allegany,  the  greatest  of  all  the  chains  of  moun- 
tains, and  emphatically  termed  the  back-bone  of  America. 

The  ascent  of  this  mountain  was  easier  than  I  imagined  it 
would  have  been,  and  the  company  being  sociable  and  well-disposed, 
wcrode  and  walked  alternately,  which  afforded  considerable  vari- 
ety. Near  the  top  we  stopped  at  an  excellent  stone  house,  kept 
by  a  Dutchman  as  a  tavern,  where  we  rested  a  considerable  time, 
and  bespeaking  some  refreshment,  we  found  the  provisions  good, 
and  the  charge  moderate.     The  view  to  the  eastward  is  very  exten- 

89 


'"I 


306  TRAVELS   IN 

sivc ;  but,  as  we  were  not  yet  upon  the  summit,  we  could  not  tec 
ivcstwurd.     There  was  a  little  rivulet  near  the  house,  aiul  on  iu 
banks  some  pretty  fertile  soil,  wliich  was  with  great  care  convcrtd 
into  arable  land  ;  and  a  garden  beside  the  house  raised  a  good  ku|> 
ply  of  vegetables.     The  cows,  sheep,  hogs,  and  poultry  were  plen^ 
tifully  supplied  from  the  grass  of  the  mountain ;  but  the  flour  and 
liquors  had  to  be  brought  from  the  low  country.     But,  in  truth,  it 
is  really  a  comfortable  residence,  and  I  presume  the  honest  Dutcli< 
man  will  succeed  very  well  as  a  tavern-keeper  at  this  place.  On  our 
way  towards  the  summit  we  met  some  people  who  had  been  very  su(- 
cessful  in  gathering  whortle-berries,   with  which  all  the  mountains 
f&bound ;  and  they  made  us  a  present  of  as  miany  as  we  chose  to  take. 
On  reaching  the  summit,  my  senses  were  almost  overpowered 
by  the  sublimity  of  Uie  view,  and  the  sensations  excited  by  it.  Tu 
form  some  idea  of  it,  it  is  nccessory  to  bear  in  minJ.,  that  the  base 
of  the  second  ridge  is  a  little  higher  than  the  first,  and  soon  to  the 
Allegany,  which  is  the  highest  of  all ;  and  from  thence  the  coun- 
try  agani  falls  to  the  westward.     Hence  the  Allegany  is  the  divid- 
iuji  riduje  between  the  eastern  and  western  waters :  and  a  shower  ol' 
rain  falling  here  must  be  so  divided,  that  one  part  of  it  will  run  into 
the  Atlantic  by  the  Chcsapeak  bay,  and  the  other  will  fall  into  the 
Gnlph  of  Mexico  by  the  Mississipi,  berg  separated  lOOO  miles  in 
a  direct  line.     The  view  is  most  extensive,  and  is  sublime  in  a  high 
degree ;  but  as  it  is  only  a  small  part  of  the  globe  that  can  be  sub- 
mitted to  the  sense  of  vision  at  any  one  time,  there  is  a  kind  of  regret, 
commingled  with  the  other  sensations,  that  we  cannot  here  vievr 
the  country  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Mississippi.     Imagination  and 
a  perusal  of  the  map  must  in  part  supply  the  defect.     But  I  cannot 
express  all  I  feel,  and  must  hasten  from  the  towering  eminence,  to 
survey  the  country  piece  by  piece,  the  only  way  that  it  can  be  ac- 
complished by  mortal  man.     I  may  cry  out,    "  O,  that  I  had  the 
wings  of  the  morning,    that  I  might  fly  to  the  uttermost  ends  of 
the  earth  in  search  of  knowledge !"   But  sober  reason  steps  in  to 
check  the  vain  illusion ;  so  I  must  e'en  take  her  for  my  guide,  aiid 
travel,  not  as  fancy,  but  as  reason  directs. 

As  we  began  to  descend,  I  could  distinctly  perceive  that  we  were 
now  in  a  different  climate,  and  was  strongly  impressed  with  thi 
force  of  Volney's  remarks  on  the  climate  of  the  United  States. 
The  wind  was  blowing  from  the  westward,  and  had  a  balmy  soiV 
ness,  which  I  had  often  observed  in  Europe,  but  seldom  in  thf 
United  States ;  and  though  it  was  the  hottest  time  of  the  day,  and 


PINMSYLVAMIA,  807 

the  hottest  season  of  the  year,  we  felt  no  inconvenience  from  it. 
On  reaching  the  phiins  below,  these  remarks  were  corroborated  by 
observing  the  fields.  The  grass,  grain,  fruit,  all  indicated  that  wv 
were  now  in  a  tcmj)erate  climate;  the  fields  of  oats  were  particular- 
ly demonstrative  of  it.  In  all  my  travels  through  the  Atlantic 
(tatcs,  cast  of  the  mountains,  I  had  uniformly  noticed  tliat  oats  did 
not  corae  to  the  same  degree  of  maturity  as  in  Europe,  lie  rea- 
;on  which  I  assigned  was,  that  the  climate  is  too  rapid  for  them, 
and  they  are  ripened  before  the  ear  fills.  Here,  however,  I  fuu<)d 
elegant  fields  of  them,  which  had  come  to  full  maturity  ;  and  I 
was  so  struck  with  the  circumstance,  that  I  several  times  got  out 
of  the  stage  to  examine  them.     I  always  met  with  the  same  result. 

From  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  wc  travelled  about  14  miles, 
through  an  uneven  country,  to  Somerset,  where  we  stopped  for 
the  night.  On  our  arrival  at  this  place,  I  was  proceeding  to  follow 
up  my  inquiries  ;  and  judging  that  the  landlord  would  be  equally 
communicative  and  obliging  with  those  I  had  before  met  with  in 
the  United  States,  I  began  to  put  some  questions  to  him.  But  I 
soon  found  that  I  had  reckoned  without  my  host.  To  the  first 
question  he  made  a  repulsive  answer ;  and  at  the  second,  he  turned 
upon  his  heel,  muttering  something  to  himself,  that  I  did  not  dis> 
tinctly  hear.  "  O,  ho  !"  thinks  I  to  myself,  "  I  have  got  into  th« 
wrong  box ;"  so  I  very  composedly  shut  up  my  papers,  and  step- 
ped over  to  the  postmaster,  at  the  other  side  of  the  street.  1  found 
him  a  perfect  contrast  to  the  landlord.  He  was  not  only  willing  to 
answer  all  my  questions,  but  he  called  in  the  aid  of  several  other 
gentlemen,  and  I  got  every  information  I  could  desire. 

Somerset  is  the  capital  of  Somerset  county,  and  is  situated  in  a 
valley  called  the  Glades.  The  town  was  laid  out  about  24  years 
ago,  and  now  contains  480  inhabitants.  The  houses  are  in  num- 
ber about  80  or  90,  principally  built  of  logs,  and  there  are  eight 
taverns  and  six  stores.  The  public  buildings  are  a  court  house  and 
jail;  and  two  churches  arc  building.  The  town  is  well  supplied 
with  provisions,  which  sell  at  moderate  prices ;  beef,  mutton,  and 
pork,  are  about  four  cents  per  pound.  The  manufactures  are 
equal  to  the  supply  of  the  demand,  except  for  fine  goods.  There 
ire  in  the  town  and  neighbourhood  several  carding  machines  for 
'"ool,  and  one  for  cotton,  which  are  doing  well.  Cotton  is  brought 
1  from  Baltimore  at  about  two  cents  per  pound ;  and  wool,  both 
•ommon  aad  merino,    is  abundant  in  the  country.    The  schools  are 


..i-^^Ji 


y 


JOS 


TRAVILS   IN 


very  gooil  and  iniproving ;  and  there  is  a  newspaper  socitty  cstal>. 
lulled,  which  gctM  nil  the  principal  newspopers  in  the  United  States. 

The  country  in  the  neighbourhood  id  pretty  fertile,  and  agri- 
culture  u  In  an  improved  state.  They  raise  oats,  barley,  wheat 
and  rye;  and  the  country  answers  remarkably  well  for  j^rozing, 
particularly  sheep.  There  is  plenty  of  iron  ore  in  the  valliy,  nnci 
three  forges  have  been  recently  erected.  The  greater  part  of  the 
surplus  produce  is  carried  to  Cumberland,  3.5  miles  distant;  where 
it  is  taken  by  boats,  down  the  Potomac,  to  Baltimore.  Land  car. 
ringe  to  Philadelphia  is  three  dollars  per  cwt. 

The  obliging  poatmaster  from  whom  I  got  my  information,  \i  a 
native  of  Ireland,  and  has  been  long  settled  in  this  country.  Hit 
name  is  Clark,  and  I  sliall  long  keep  it  on  the  right  side  of  the 
book  of  my  remembrance. — Mr.  Webster,  the  landlord,  must 
take  "  the  left  hand  road." 

On  my  return  to  the  tavern,  the  company  had  all  retired  to  bed, 
but  I  had  to  sit  up  and  finish  my  notes.  The  landlord  hinted  that 
1  had  better  go  to  bed,  as  the  stage  would  start  very  early  in  the 
morning.  I  told  him  I  must  write  a  little  before  I  went  to  bed, 
but  would  rise  at  any  hour,  provided  I  was  calleil.  He  said  I 
would  be  called  in  due  time.  Before  I  finished,  it  was  near  12 
o'clock. 

August  14th.  At  half  past  2  o'clock,  I  heard  the  voice  of  my 
hindlord,  calling  all  hands  to  their  duty.  I  looked  up,  rubbing 
my  eyes : — "  Will  the  stage  go  soon  ?"  said  I.  "  The  stage  will 
go  when  it's  ready,"  said  he.  "  And  when  will  it  be  ready  ?"  said 
I.  "  That's  nothing  to  you,"  said  he :  "  I  have  called  you  ;  that's 
my  duty ;  if  you  don't  obey  orders,  and  are  disappointed,  the 
blame's  your  own."  I  started  up,  and  went  down  stairs.  When  I 
settled  my  bill,  "  Now  Pm  ready,"  said  I.  "  No,  you're  not  quite 
ready  yet,"  said  he,  "  there's  some  whiskey  and  bitters  for  you."  I 
took  a  little  of  it.  "  Well,  what's  to  pay  for  this  ?"  "  Nothing. ' 
'^'he  ladies  appeared,  and  he  ordered  them  into  an  adjoining  room 
to  get  some  cofTee;  and  pointed  out  the  whiskey  and  bitters  to  the 
gentlemen  who  attended  them.  "  I  believe  Fll  take  a  cup  of  cof- 
fee with  the  ladies,"  said  one  of  the  gentlemen.  "  If  you  don't 
choose  the  bitters,  you  mjiy  let  them  alone,"  said  the  landlord; 
*'  but  the  coffee  was  provided  for  the  ladies,  and  of  it  you  don't 
get  one  drop."  But  his  care  of  the  ladies  did  not  end  here.  The 
morning  was  cold  and  raw,  and  he  .provided  warm  great  coats  for 


PENNSYLVANIA.  309; 

them  all.  This  humane  conduct  goTo  me  a  better  opiniun  of 
him,  than  I  otherwise  would  have  entertained;  and,  enquiring; 
intohi*  I  istory,  1  U'arnttI  that  he  had  been  an  officer  in  the  army, 
(lurinjj  the  war,  which  accounted  for  the  austerity  of  his  behavionr^ 
ami  tlic  hauirhtine»H  of  his  command. 

Six  miles  from  Somerset,  we  reached  Laurel  II ill,  of  which^ 
as  I  made  no  particular  remark,  except  that  we  had  a  fine  view 
from  the  top,  I  *hall  transcribe  Michuux's  account.  "  The  di- 
rection of  this  ridge  is  parallel  with  those  we  left  behind  us;  tha 
wootU  which  cover  it,  are  more  tufted,  and  the  vegetation  appears. 
more  lively.  The  name  given  to  this  mountain,  I  have  no  doubt, 
proceeds  from  the  great  quantity  of  ca/wm  latifoUa^  from  8  to  10 
feet  liif^h,  which  grows  exclusively  in  all  the  vacant  places,  and 
that  of  the  rhododendrum  maximum^  which  enamel  the  borders  of 
the  torrents;  for  the  inhabitants  call  the  rhododendrum  laurel,  as 
frquently  as  the  calmia  latifolia."  The  descent  on  the  western 
udc  of  this  ridge  was  very  steep,  and  we  had  to  walk  nearly  all 
the  way  down. 

We  breakfasted  at  the  foot  of  Laurel  Hill,  and  travelled  over 
lacountry  pretty  fertile,  and  partially  improved,  about  eight  miles 
tuthe  foot  of  Chesnut  Ridge,'  the  last  and  least  of  the  mountains; 
over  which  the  road  passes  two  miles.  This  ridge  lies  parallel  with 
all  the  others,  and  has  nothing  to  recommend  it  to  particular  no-. 
ticc,  except  that  the  view  being  now  unobstructed  to  the  westward, 
the  western  country  appears  to  be  spread  out  like  a  plain  of  vast. 
lextent.  We  reached  the  foot  of  this  mountain  at  1  o'clock,  and  I 
shall  introduce  the  country  beyond  it  to  the  notice  of  the  reader, . 
|in  a  new  chapter. 


!*pjf:l 


I  ''t 


CHAPTER  LXVL 


Western  Country^ — Greenshurgy — Pittsburg. 

'N  entering  into  the  country  to  the  westward  of  the  mountains, 
itie  whole  face  of  nature  indicated  a  fertile  soil  and  healthy  cli- 
mate. The  woods  consisted  princijially  of  oak,  hickory,  chesnut, 
Muut,  locust,  and  sugar-maple ;  and  the  trees  were  generally 
ipeaking,  larger  than  any  timber  I  had  ever  seen  before.  The 
fields  were  fertile  and  well  cultivated,  and  the  crops  of,  grain  and 


m 


310  TRAVELS   m 

grass  were  luxuriant.  The  surface  of  the  earth  is  swelled  out  into 
an  inQumerable  number  of  small  hills,  but  all  fit  for  cultivation 
and  the  ground  is  abundantly  watered  by  springs  and  rivulets. 
With  these  advantages,  it  was  not  to  be  supposed  that  this  coun- 
try,  so  near  the  old  settlements,  would  long  lie  waste;  and  we 
accordingly  find,  that  the  county  of  Westmoreland  is  one  of  the 
most  popul'jus  in  the  state  of  Pennsylvania.  The  farms  are  well 
improve^}  and  the  farm-houses  are,  many  of  them,  substantial, 
and  bespeak  affluence,  ease,  and  comfort.  These  remarks  may 
appear  singular  to  such  as  know  of  no  medium  by  which  wealth 
can  be  obtained,  but  that  of  foreign  commerce ;  but  they  arc, 
nevertheless,  correct.  The  people  here  appear  to  be  as  well 
lodged,  as  well  fed,  and  as  well  clothed,  as  those  who  live  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Philadelphia  or  New  York. 

After  passing  Chesnut  Ridge  the  road  makes  a  considerable 
bend  to  the  northward,  and  crosses  several  small  creeks,  branch^ 
of  the  Yoxhiogeni  river ;  the  principal  of  which  is  Sewickly  creek; 
and  seven  miles  from  thence  we  reached  Greensburg,  passing  in 
our  way  a  salt  spring,  and  a  coal  mine,  the  first  I  had  seen  in  the 
United  States.     We  stopped  for  the  night  at  Worbache's  tavern. 

Greenspurg  is  the  capital  of  Westmoreland  county,  and  is 
situated  in  a  healthy,  fertile  country.  It  contains  by  last  census 
680  inhabitants,  and  is  encreasing.  The  houses  are  mostly  built 
of  wood,  but  some  few  are  of  brick.  The  public  buildings  are,  a 
court-house,  jail,  meeting-house,  and  market-house. 

Thursday,  15th  August.  The  stage  started  from  Greensburg 
at  4  o'clock,  and  travelled  through  a  fertile  country ;  but  it  was 
very  uneven,  and  we  were  constantly  either  ascending  or  descend* 
ing.  Six  miles  from  Greensburg  we  passed  a  little  place  called 
Adamsburg,  consisting  of  a  few  houses  only ;  and  at  six  miles 
from  thence  we  stopped  to  breakfast  at  *he  house  of  a  Mr.  Stewart, 
one  of  the  most  discreet  landlords  1  ever  saw.  Our  charge  here 
was  only  25  cents.  At  ten  miles  from  Stewart's  we  had  to  descend 
a  pretty  steep  eminence,  to  cross  Turtle  creek,  and  some  rain 
having  fallen,  the  road  was  very  slippery  and  bad.  One  of  the 
Pittsburg  gentlemen,  and  I,  alighted  to  walk  down  the  hill.  We 
got  a  considerable  way  before  the  stage,  and  my  fellow-traveller 
took  me  a  little  off  the  road,  to  see  what  he  termed  a  great  curi* 
oiity.  It  was  indeed  one  of  nature's  wonders,  the  remains  of  a 
remarkably  large  tree.    The  history  of  it,  as  he  stated  it,  was  thii 


PENNSYLVANIA.  311 

The  troe  was  a  sycamore,  which  species,  when  they  grow  very 
large,  decay  in  the  heart.  This  one  had  so  decayed,  and  there 
vaia  hole  in  one  side  of  it.  A  family  had  come  down  the  creek  in 
the  winter  season,  and  got  their  boat  stove  by  the  ice ;  when,  see- 
ing this  tree,  they  cleared  out  the  rubbish  from  the  inside,  and 
converted  it  into  a  house,  where  they  lived  for  some  time,  till 
they  got  their  boat  repaired.  When  they  left  it  they  set  it  on 
fire,  which  consumed  every  thing  but  the  stump;  and  the  remains 
of  it  now  form  a  circle  like  the  staves  of  a  large  vat.  My  friend 
told  me  he  had  rode  into  it  with  his  horse,  and  turned  him  round 
in  the  inside,  which  he  could  do  with  ease.  We  measured  it,  and 
found  it  to  be  fully  15  feet  in  diameter. 

Having  crossed  the  creek,  and  ascended  the  hill  on  the  other 
tide,  we  travelled  about  a  mile,  when  we  came  to  the  ground 
where  General  Braddock  was  defeated.  Many  memorials  of  th« 
battle  are  still  to  be  seen ;  but  none  so  characteristic  as  the  bones, 
which  lay  bleaching  by  the  way  side ;  and  of  which  one  of  our 
company,  being  an  anatomist,  carried  one  away  as  a  curiosity. 

A  little  after  passing  this  place,  we  stopped  at  the  house  of  a 
judge  Wallace ;  and  here  we  were  recompensed  for  the  disagreea- 
ble sensations  excited  by  the  sight  of  the  field  of  battle,  by  the 
view  of  one  of  the  most  lovely  of  God's  works.  Miss  Wallace 
came  out  to  the  carriage  with  some  fruit  and  cyder.  She  was 
beautiful,  while  she  appeared  quite  unconscious  of  it,  being  en- 
tirely free  from  affectation ;  she  was  the  picture  of  innocence,  and 
iweet  simplicity.  On  leaving  the  house,  I  was  informed  by  the 
Pittsburg  ladies,  who  were  acquainted  with  her,  that  her  mind 
was  as  elegant  as  her   person,  and  her  affections  graced  both — 

le  whole  forming  the  picture  of  the  poet : 


-Innocence 


Looked  gaily  smiling  on;  while  rosy  PleMure 
Hid  young  Desire  amid  her  flow'ry  wreath, 
And  pour'd  her  cup  luxuriant ;  mantling  high. 
The  4>arkling  heavenly  vintage,  love  and  bliss. 


From  hence  to  Pittsburg  is  nine  miles,  and  the  country  con- 
[  mued  hilly  for  seven ;  when  we  came  to  the  banks  of  the  Alle- 
gany, and  proceeded  along  an  open  plain,  bounded  by  the  Alle- 
g«ny  on  the  west,  and  by  pretty  high  hills  on  the  east ;  and  wo 
proceeded  between  these,  two  miles,  to  Pittsburg,  whcre^  we  arrived 
« two  o'clock. 


i,i':i 


s4f 


•r 
»  J 


1 


I 


ol'$  •  TRAVELS    IN 

I  shall  close  this  chapter  with  a  few  general  remarks. 

The  whole  of  the  mountains,  as  far  as  I  saw  them,  are  cover- 
ed with  wood  to  the  very  top ;  and  they  form  a  very  luxuriant  ap. 
pearance,  compared  with  the  bleak  mountains  of  Britain  and  Ire- 
land.  There  are  a  great  variety  of  valuable  plants  amongst  them; 
but,  being  no  botanist,  I  shall  barely  transcribe  a  list  of  them, 
which  I  find  scattered  in  different  places  of  Michaux'  tTiavek 
Calmia  latifolia,  Andromeda  vaccinium^  JRhododendrum,  Modo- 
dendrtim  maximum^  Magyiolia  acuminata^  Q  uercus  banisteri,  Azalea, 

Michaux  mentions  that  there  are  a  great  many  rattlesnakes  iji 
the  mountainous  parts  of  Pennsylvania,  and  he  found  a  vast  num- 
ber of  them  killed  upon  the  road.  We  found  only  one,  and  1 
have  never  yet  seen  a  live  rattle-snake  in  America,  except  one  ex- 
hibited in  a  box  as  a  show. 

As  I  have  the  book  of  this  respectable  traveller  in  my  band,  I 
may  notice,  that  the  country  has  much  changed  in  the  course  of 
eight  years,  or  he  must  have  been  mistaken  in  some  of  his  conclu- 
sions.   In  the  2d  London  edition,  l)age  30,  he  observes :  "  Sheep 
being  very  scarce,  the  wool  is  very  dear,  and  they  reserve  it  to 
make  stockings."    In  my  journey  through  the  mountains,  I  passed 
many  droves  of  horses,  cattle,  hogs,  and  some  sheep,  going  to  the 
Ciistward.     The  mountainous  district  is  well  calculated  for  shecp^ 
and  merino  sheep  have  been  introduced,  and  are  thriving  remark- 
ably well.     Wool  is  plenty,  and  carding  machines  are  common  all 
over  the  country.     In  page  40,   he  observes:    "  A  passion  tor| 
spirkous  liquors  is  one  of  the  features  that  characterize  the  coue- 
try  people,  belonging  to  the  interior  of  the  United  States.    Tliiil 
passion  is  so  strong,  that  they  desert  their  homes  every  now  aiid 
then,  to  get  drunk  in  public  houses ;    in  fact  I  do  not  conceit 
there   10  out  of  100  who  have  resolution  to  desist  from  it  a  mo- 
ment, provided  they  had  it  by  tlieni."     In  my  journey  across  tlie 
mountains,  1  did  not  see  a  single  person  drunk,  though  no  doubi 
there  might  have  been  many.     There  is  unquestionably  tooniuclil 
spirituous  licjuors  drank  in  the  newly  settled  parts  of  America,  bcij 
A  .very  good  reason  can  be  assigned  for  it.     The  labour  otcleiirind 
the  Ituidis  rugged  and  severe,  anil  the  summers  heats  arc  sonictimis 
•o  great  that  it  would  be  dangerous  to  drink  cold  water.    This  is « 
truth,  whatever  philosophers  may  think  of  it.     Where  the  coun-j 
4ry  is  entirely  new,  there  are  no  apples,  and  consequently  no  cy- 
der.    Malt  liquor  v,ill  not  keep,  spirituous  liquor*  are  soon  pre- 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


SIS 


pared,  and  are  in  fact  the  only  beverage  to  whicli  the  settlers 
have  access;  and  many  may,  in  this  way,  acquire  a  hubit,  whicli 
they  will  not  be  able  afterwards  to  correct.  By  and  bye,  a  new  set 
of  settlers  comes  into  the  country,  with  more  temperate  habits; 
the  first  class,  who  may  with  propriety  be  called  pioneers^  sell 
their  improvements,  and  move  away  to  clear  lands  farther  back ; 
the  country  becomes  stocked  with  fruit  for  cyder,  and  materials 
for  malt  liquor;  and  the  people  are  as  temperate  in  their  habits, 
and  as  correct  in  their  morals,  as  the  inhabitants  of  either  France 
or  England.  This  district  of  country  was  new  when  Michaux  tra- 
velled through  it,  and  he  had  seen  some  instances  of  intemperance, 
which  no  doubt  would  make  u  considerable  impression  on  his 
mind ;  but  there  is  no  way  of  accounting  for  the  sweeping  con- 
clusion he  draws  against  the  whole  of  the  "  country  people  belong- 
ingto  the  interior  of  the  United  States,"  namely,  all  the  farmers,  ex- 
cept by  the  presumption,  that  his  mind  must  have  been  predisposed, 
in  consequence  of  misinformation  received  from  some  prcjudiceil 
foreigners  in  the  sea-ports,  many  of  whom  are  ever  ready  to  abuse 
and  vilify  the  mass  of  the  people  in  the  United  States.  But  we 
may  set  it  down  as  a  certain  truth,  that  "corruption  of  morals  in 
the  mass  of  cultivators  is  a  phenomenon  of  which  no  age  or  nation 
has  furnished  an  example." 

The  expense  of  travelling  by  the  stage,  from  Philadelphia  to 
Pittsburg,  is  20  dollars,  and  12J  cents  for  every  pound  of  luggafro 
beyond  14.  The  charges  by  the  way  are  about  7  dollars.  The 
whole  distance  is  297  miles,  and  the  stage  travels  it  in  6  davs. 
The  expense  of  travelling  by  a  waggon  is  5  dollars  per  cwt.  for 
both  persons  and  property ;  and  the  charges  by  the  way  are  about 
12  dollars.     A  waggon  performs  the  journey  in  about  20  days. 

1  cannot  here  omit  to  notice  of  what  importance  it  would  bo 
to  have  a  good  turnpike  road  across  the  mountains ;  and  I  was 
glad  to  learn  that  it  was  probable  one  would  soon  be  made.  Com- 
missioners were  surveying  the  different  lines  of  road  at  tlie  time 
repassed,  and  it  was  expected  they  would  make  their  report  tn 
the  legislature  at  their  next  meeting.  From  the  liberality  which 
that  body  have  lately  adopted  towards  the  public  concerns  of  the 
state,  and  the  ample  funds  in  their  hands,  there  seems  to  h2  no 
doubt  but  this  important  branch  of  political  economy  will  receive 
every  encouragement  which  it  deserves  ;  and,  when  a  good  road  is 
|farricd  through  betwixt  Phuadelphia  and  Pittsburg,  it  will  be  at- 

40 


% 


n ''» A 


'4 


f    1  '^  j| 


314- 


TRAVELS    IN 


m 


tended  with   advantages  of  which   the  most  sanguine  calculator 
could  not  at  present  tbrni  an  estimate. 

In  surveying  the  "  sublime  and  beautiful,"  in  the  course  of  this 
journey,  1  often  thought  of  the  Society  of  Artists  in  Philadelphia, 
and  wished  that  some  of  their  amateurs  had  been  along  with  me  to 
(leiincrtte  some  of  the  scenery  to  embellish  this  work  ;  but  that  ob- 
ject not  being  attainable,  I  must  embellish  it  in  the  best  way  I  cnn, 
by  giving  my  readers  an  account  of  what  they  can  eat,  and  what 
they  can  drink,  and  wherewithal  they  can  be  clothed;  and  of  what 
can  be  done  here  to  procure  these  articles,  so  necessary  to  the  siip- 
jwrt  of  human  life. 


— ■»<— PW 


CHAPTER  LXVIL 

Pittsburg, 

AVIXG  formed  an  acquaintance  with  my  Pittsburg  follow-tra- 
>  tilers,  whom  I  found  to  be  very  discreet  well-informed  people,  1 
was  enabled  very  soon  by  their  assistance  to  make  myself  acquaint- 
ed with  til  is  part  of  the  country. 

PinsBURO  is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Allegany  andMo- 
nongabeki  rivers,  the  junction  of  which  forms  the  Ohio.  It  extends 
about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  along  the  Allegany  river,  and  about 
half  a  mile  along  the  Monongahela.  Tlie  scite  of  the  town  is  nar- 
row, being  hemmed  in  by  hills  to  the  eastward,  about  half  a  mile 
from  the  Allegany  river ;  but  there  is  room  for  it  to  extend  along 
that  river  two  miles.  i 

The  town  was  first  laid  out  in  1 765 ;  but  was  surveyed  and  laid 
out  on  a  new  plan  in  1784,  The  plan  was  meant  to  accommodate  i 
the  town  to  both  rivers;  but  it  is  by  no  means  so  well  designed aj 
it  might  have  been.  I'he  streets  are  generally  too  narrow,  and  they 
cross  one  another  at  acute  angles,  which  is  both  hurtful  to  the  eve 
J  nd  injurious  to  the  buildings,  llie  value  of  the  situation  may  be 
tietennined  by  a  notice  of  the  progress  of  the  town.  In  1800  ii 
contained  2iOO  inhabitants;  in  1807  it  containetl  about  500  houses; 
and  in  1810  it  contained  II  stone  buildings,  283  of  brick,  and  4'3 
uf  frame  and  log  :  making  in  all  767 ;  and  the  number  of  inhabitants 
was  4768.  Pittsburg  has,  of  course,  nearly  doubled  its  population 
iu  lOyeart;  and  there Js  every  probability  that  this  ratio  will  couii- 


,iji  f  ■» 


-ituation  may 


PENNSYLVANU.  315 

iiue  for  a  considerable  time  to  come :   so  that  Pittsburg  will  in  aU 
probability  become  one  of  the  largest  towns  In  America. 

The  principal  public  buildings  are  a  court-house,  jail,  market- 
house,  bank,  academy,  and  5  places  of  public  worship.  There  are 
also  several  manufactories  which  may  rank  as  public  buildings.  A 
steam  mill,  built  of  hewn  stone,  which  can  drive  3  pair  of  stones,  ca- 
pable of  grinding  upwards  of  500  bushels  of  grain  in  24  hours ;  4 
glass-houses;  several  air-funmces ;  several  breweries  and  distille- 
lies;  two  cotton  manufactories,  and  a  number  of  carding  machiiu?*; 
a  white  lead  manufactory;  a  wire-drawing  nianutactory,  wrought 
by  a  steam-engine ;  an  iron  grinding  mill,  and  many  others. 

The  following  enumeration  of  the  professions  exercised  in  Pitts- 
burg will  show  the  rapid  progress  that  society  has  made  here.     Ma- 
sous  and  stone-cutters,  brick-makers,  carpenters,  cabinet-makers, 
coopers,  turners,   ship  and  boat  builders,  machine-makers,  wheel- 
wrights, smiths  and  nailors,   brass  founders,   copper-smiths    tin- 
smiths, silver-smiths,  gun-smiths,  cutlers,  wire-drawers,  wire-work- 
ers, lock-smiths,  screw  a.id  hinge-makers,  clock  and  watch-makers, 
button-makers,  steam  engine-builders,  bottle-blowersj  wlass-makei-s 
glass-cutters,  looking-glass-makers,  taimers,  curriers,  saddlers,  boot 
and  shoe-makers,  glovers  and  breeches -makers,  butchers,  bakers 
brewers,  distillers,  cotton-spinners,  weavers,  dyers,  stocking-makers^ 
tailors,  printers,   book -binders,   marbled  paper-makers,  ink  pow- 
der-makers, rope-makers,  tobacconists,  soap-boilers,  candle-maker? 
brush-makers,  comb-makers,  potters,  painters,    and  white  lead- 
makers. 

The  manufacturers  in  all  these  branches  are  prosperhig,  ond  the 
most  of  those  employed  at  them  are  becoming  wealthy.  Labour 
is  well  paid ;  a  few  of  the  prices  may  be  quoted,  Car|>eBters  a  dol- 
lar per  day;  cabhiet-makers  are  paid  by  the  piece,  and  they  can 
make  above  a  dollar ;  smiths  and  tanners  12  dollars  per  month,  with 
iheir  board;  shoemakers  94?  cents  for  making  a  pair  of  shoes,  and 
2  dollars  50  cents  for  boots ;  shipwrights  1  <Iollar  50  cents  per  day : 
otlier  mechanics  about  1  dollar ;  labourers  75  cents. 

The  various  manufactures  in  Pittsburg  exceed  a  million  of  dol- 
lars annually,  and  we  may  calculate  its  progress  in  wealth  from  this 
uata.  A  million  of  dollars  is  above  200  dollars  a  year  to  every  man 
woman,  and  child  in  Pittsburg;  or,  taking  them  by  families  of  5, 
'tis  1000  dollars  to  a  family ;  and  the  exj)onditure  of  a  family  docs 
not,  on  an  average,  exceed  one-third  of  that  sum.     This  wealth,  to 


r'"^" 


^    r( 


316 


TRAVELS    IN 


be  sure,  will  not  be  equally  diflused  ;  some  will  get  more— some 
less:  but  it  is  an  income  to  the  town,  and,  the  outgoings  not  heW 
above  one-third,  leaves  an  accumulation  of  capital  of  nearly  700,000 
dollars  annually.  With  this  accunmlation  of  capital,  and  other  ad- 
vantages, and  the  spirit  of  enterprize  M'hich  is  exhibited  in  Pitts- 
burg, I  have  no  hesitation  in  hazarding  an  opinion  that  it  will  b^ 
come  one  of  the  greatest  manufacturing  towns  in  the  world. 

Besides  the  supply  of  the  town  and  country  round  with  nianulac- 
turcs,  Pittsburg  has  a  vast  export  trade,  principally  down  the  Oiiio. 
The  following  may  be  enumerated  as  the  most  prominent  articles 
of  export;  window- glass,  bottles,  flint-glass,  decanters,  tumblers 
&c.,  beer  and  porter,  saddles  and  bridles,  boots  and  shoes,  tin  and 
copper  wares,  stills  and  other  apparatus  for  distilling,  weavers'  reeds, 
metal  buttons,  snuff' and  scgars,  carpenter  and  cabinetwork,  &c. 

As  the  greater  part  of  the  manufactures  that  have  been  cnum^ 
rated  are  in  a  jDrogressive  state  of  improvement,  workmen  can  hard- 
ly go  wrong  by  coming  to  this  place.  They  are  sure  t)f  work  and 
good  wages  at  all  times.  The  following  new  branches  of  nianuthc- 
ture  might  be  established  to  advantage;  chaise  and  chair  making; 
upholstery  ;  piano-fortes,  and  other  musical  instruments ;  stocking 
frames  :  and  the  following  are  susceptible  of  augmentation  :  cotton 
nnd  wool  spinning  and  weaving;  stocking-making. 

The  progress  of  the  manufactures  of  Pittsburg  is  in  effect  guaran- 
teed by  the  cheapness  of  living,  as  the  following  rates  will  show, 
House-rent  for  a  mechanic  is  about  50  or  60  dollars  per  annum; 
coals  from  five  to  six  cents  per  bushel,  delivered,  and  300  bushels 
will  serve  for  one  fire  12  months,  being  from  15  to  18  dollars;  flour 
two  dollars  per  cwt. ;  meal  40  cents  per  cwt. ;  potatoes  31  cents  per 
bushel;  other  vegetables  are  very  cheap;  beef,  mutton,  and  veal 
from  four  to  six  cents  per  pound ;  pork  from  three  to  four  cents  per 
pound ;  bacon  from  six  to  ten  cents  per  pound ;  venison  from  tlire« 
to  four  and  a  half  cents  per  pound;  fowls  12A  cents  each;  ducki 
25  cents;  geese  from  50  to  75  cents  ;  turkeys  from  50  to  100  cents; 
fish  very  plenty  and  cheap ;  cheese  from  8  to  12  cents ;  butter  from 
10  to  18  cents;  eggs  from  8  to  10;  beer  and  porter  plenty  and  rea- 
sonable; cyder  from  two  to  four  dollars  per  barrel;  whiskey  40 
cents  per  gallon ;  peach  brandy  80  cents;  maple  sugar  10  cent. 
)ier  pound;  salt  150  cents  per  cwt. ;  seven-hundred  country  linen 
from  33  to  40  cents  per  yard. 

A  dollar  exchanges  in  sterling  at  4s.  6d. ;  a  cent  is  a  fraction  mor? 
lUun  a  halfpenny. 


Pf-iNNSVLVANlA. 


317 


ts:  butter  from 


a  Iraction  nior? 


I'Vom  this  list  of  prices,  taken  in  connexion  with  the  value  of  la- 
bour, it  will  be  j^ccn  that  an  ordinary  workman  can  procure  ibr  a 
day's  work  50  pounds  of  flour;  or  20  pounds  of  beef;  or  three 
bushels  of  potatoes  ;  or  27  pounds  of  pork ;  or  eight  fowls ;  or  four 
ducks;  or  two  ordinary  geese ;  or  one  very  large  tuikey.  While 
this  continues  to  be  the  case  (and  I  think  it  will  long  continue,) 
it  may  be  fairly  inferred  that  a  workman  can  support  his  family 
with  the  produce  of  his  labour  in  ease  and  affluence,  and  can  ac- 
cumulate a  stock  of  wealth  for  old  age,  and  for  posterity. 

The  inhabitants  of  Pittsburg  being  a  collection  from  all  niitions, 
kindreds,  tongues,  and  languages,  it  must  naturally  be  supposed  that 
they  will  exhibit  a  considerable  variety  oi"  manners.  The  Pittsburg 
Navigator,  a  little  book  containmg  a  vast  variety  of  intormation  re- 
garding the  western  country,  the  prosperity  of  which  seems  to  be 
an  object  of  peculiar  solicitude  with  the  editous,  thus  enumerates 
liicni:  "They  are  principally  Americans;  a  good  many  Irish, 
some  English,  some  Scotch,  some  French,  Dutch,  and  Swiss,  and 
a  few  Welch  and  Italians."  But  as  they  are  mostly  operative 
mechanics,  having  no  separate  interest  to  keep  them  at  variance, 
they  are  generally  friendly  and  sociable  with  one  another ;  and  will 
in  a  short  time  assimilate  and  become  one  body  politic. 

The  pulpit  and  bar  are  both  respectably  supported ;  and  Pitts- 
burg is  well  supplied  with  good  schools.  There  are  two  weekly 
newspapers  printed  in  the  town,  and  there  is  a  general  collection  of 
papers  brought  here  from  every  quarter  of  the  union.  The  inha- 
bitants have  also  established  a  public  library,  and  some  young  men 
have  lately  formed  themselves  into  a  society  for  collecting  materials 
tor  a  museum.  Laudable  attention  has  also  been  paid  to  a  branch 
more  valuable,  perhaps,  than  any  other — the  education  of  young 
ladies.  When  we  reflect  that  instruction  is  the  handmaid  of  virtue — 
that  to  the  female  sex  belongs  the  care  of  man  in  his  early  years — 
that  during  this  period  his  manners,  his  habits,  and  the  rudiments 
ot his  intellect  are  formed;  when  we  duly  reflect  on  these  things, 
then  will  we  appreciate  the  value  of  female  education,  and  excry 
true  patriot  will  contribute  to  support  it  as  far  as  ho  has  opportunity. 

1  he  situation  of  Pittsburg  is  as  advantageous  as  can  well  be  ima- 
gined. The  Monongahela  is  about  400  yards  wide  at  its  mouth, 
i^iid  in  the  spring  and  fall  freshets  has  sufficient  water  to  carry  .ships 
ut  100  tons  burden.  These  freshets  soon  subside,  and  render  the 
''^vigiuion  precarious  for  large  vessels :    but  it  is  pretty  good  for 


w 


518  TKAVELS    IN 

keel  boatii  to  Brownsville,  and  thence  in  small  vessels  fiom  loo  to 
]  10  miles  into  the  interior  of  the  country. 

The  Allegany  is  navigable  to  within  14  or  15  miles  of  lake  Kric, 
and  tilt  re  is  now  an  excellent  turnpike  road  made  over  this  portage. 
There  are  many  navigable  rivers  which  fall  into  these  two  streamj, 
so  that  the  quantity  of  produce  that  is  daily  poured  into  PittsbiirT 
is  immense,  and  it  is  yearly  increasing.  From  Pittsburg  the  Ohio 
is  navigable  to  its  mouth,  and  thence  the  navigation  is  continued  to 
New  Orleans.  These  rivers  are  now  so  well  known,  that  they  are 
navigated  upwards  with  almost  as  great  facility  as  downwards,  and 
they  communicate  with  so  many  important  points  of  the  country, 
that  the  advantage  to  Pittsburg  is  iii calculable.  I  may  just  men. 
tion  two  or  three  instances.  Lead  is  brought  from  St.  Louis,  near 
the  Missouri ;  cotton  is  brought  from  Tennesee  for  four  cents  per 
pound ;  and  salt  is  brought  from  the  banks  of  the  Great  Kanhaway. 
All  the  materials  for  glass,  iron  wares,  and  malt  liquors  are  found 
in  great  plenty  in  the  neighbourhood  ;  and  there  is  an  everlasting 
cupply  of  coal  in  the  hills  all  round  the  town. 

In  the  course  of  my  walks  through  the  streets  I  heard  every 
where  the  sound  of  the  hammer  and  anvil ;  all  was  alive;  every 
thing  indicated  the  greatest  industry,  and  attention  to  business* 
The  markets  were  well  stocked  with  provisions  and  fruit,  and  the 
vegetables  were  larger  than  any  I  had  ever  seen  before.  I  ascend- 
ed a  handsome  eminence,  called  Grant's  Hill,  from  whence  I  had 
a  fine  view  of  the  town  and  country.  I  went  accompanied  by  a 
friend  to  visit  the  glass-works,  which  we  found  in  excellent  order, 
and  one  of  the  workmen  prepared  for  us  some  glass  waie of  curious 
workmanship.  In  the  neighbourhood  we  saw  a  pottery,  at  which  a 
great  deal  of  very  handsome  earthen  utensils  are  manufactured.  I 
carried  a  letter  of  introduction  to  Mr.  Roosvelt,  the  gentleman  who 
had  the  management  of  the  steam-boat  which  was  building  on 
the  Ohio.  He  was  not  at  home,  but  I  went  to  see  the  boat.  It  had 
lately  been  launched  on  the  Monongahela  river,  and  was  the  largest 
vessel  I  had  ever  seen  which  bore  the  name  of  a  boat.  Her  tliracn- 
sions  were  as  follows:  length  1 48  feet  6  inches;  breadth  32  feet  6  inch- 
es; depth  12  feet;  and  she  will  draw  four  feet  of  water.  She  was  ori- 
ginally intended  to  run  between  Pittsburg  and  the  falls  of  the  Ohio, 
but  she  was  found  to  be  too  large,  and  is  now  destined  to  run  be- 
tween New  Orleans  and  Natches.  The  ultimate  design  of  the  pro- 
prietors is  to  have  six  boats  to  ply  between  the  falls  and  New  Or- 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


19 


leans,  nnJ  five  between  the  falls  and  Pittsbnrg.  SliouUl  this  plan 
be  practicable,  and  carried  into  full  execution,  it  will  be  of  incal- 
culable advantage  to  the  whole  western  country. 

Durin"  my  stay  in  Pittsburg,  an  ecclesiastical  trial  too\  place, 
which  excited  a  great  deal  of  interest  in  the  town,  and  I  went, 
among  others,  to  hear  it.     The  case  was  this.     A  Mr.  Graham,  a 
native  of  Ireland,    had  been  bred  to  the  ministry  of  the  gospel, 
among  a  class  of  people  called  Cameroninns.    He  was  unsuccessful 
in  his  native  country,  where  he  was  not  able  to  support  his  family; 
and  after  struggling  for  some  time  with  the  world,    and  getting  a 
little  in  debt,  he  emigrated  to  this  country,  where  he  appears  to  have 
been  well  receivetl  by  his  brethren  of  the  same  persuasion,  in  New 
York  and    Philadelphia.      He  was  possessed  of  very    popular 
talents,  and  became  a  favourite  in  the  different  congregations  where 
he  preached  ;  but  a  misunderstanding  appears  to  have  soon  taken 
place  between  him  and  his  brethren  of  the  ministry ;  in  consequence 
of  which,   his  progress  was  retarded,    and  after  being  buffetted 
about  in  various  situations  to  the  eastward,    he  got  settled  in  a 
small  congregation  '20  or  30  miles  from  Pittsburg.     The  differences 
between  him  and  his  brethren  appear  to  have  continued  and  en- 
creased,  and  at  lust  came  to  an  open  rupture :  a  charge,  which  they 
called  ^^fama  clamosUi*  was  instituted  against  him,  and  the  trial  took 
place  in  the  Cameronian  meeting-house  of  Pittsburg.     The  court 
was  composed  of  three  clergymen,  who  appeared  to  be  all  opposed 
to  Mr.  Graham.     The  evidence  had  closed  by  the  time  I  went  to 
the  church,  and  Mr.  Graham  rose  to  make  his  defence,  which  con- 
tinued, with  different  intervals,  part  of  three  days.     He  was  un- 
commonly eloquent,   but  dreadfully  severe  upon  his  opponents, 
whom  he  charged  with  high  crimes  and  misdemeanors ;  and,   whe- 
ther he  was  right  or  wrong,  he  certainly  succeeded  in  getting  the 
popular  voice  in  Pittsburg  in  his  favour,  particularly  the  ladies.     I 
have  more  than  once  taken  notice  of  their  influence  in  society.  The 
effect  of  it  was  irresistible  in  this  case.     The  inhabitants  learned 
that  he  was  poor,  and  that  his  poverty  would  militate  much  against 
him  ill  the  encounter  with  his  assailants :  they  raised  a  considcrabio 
subscripticm  for  him,  and,  by  the  time  that  the  court  were  ready 
tor  a  decision,  he'had  become  so  strong  in  the  public  favour,  that  he 
could  set  his  brethren  at  defiance.      Without  waiting,   therefore, 
tor  their  sentence,  he  wrote  out  his  declinature,  threw  it  upon  the 
table,  walked  out  of  the  church,  and  was  tollov.ed  to  his  lodging* 
l>v  a  considorable  part  of  the  congrcgntion. 


■■.-;'1l: 
'  '•      *  'f ! 


'  k  Mi  «^ 


320  TRAVELS    IN 

Without  inquiring  who  was  ri^ht  or  who  was  wrong  in  this 
trnnsaction,  I  may  notice,  that  the  circumstances  connected  wiili 
it  involve  :v  question  of  the  most  serious  importance  to  niaii- 
kintl;  antl  bear  testimony  to  the  value  of  religious  freedom,  a^ 
enjoyed  in  the  United  States.  The  history  of  all  ages  proves  that 
the  clergy  have  a  strong  influence  over  the  mind  of  the  multitude, 
and  this  is  great  in  proportion  to  the  ignorance  of  their  hearers. 
It  is  dangerous,  therefore,  to  entrust  them  with  more  temporal 
power  than  belongs  to  them,  in  society,  as  men.  They  are  men 
of  Ukc  passions  with  others,  and  when  those  of  pride,  ambition, 
or  jealousy  take  the  lead  of  reason,  assuredly  their  extraordinary 
powers,  if  they  have  them,  will  be  abused.  Had  a  similar  trial 
taken  place  in  Spain  or  Portugal,  and  the  clerical  majority  been  as 
strong  as  it  was  against  Mr.  Graham  in  Pittsburg,  the  victim,  so 
far  from  being  supported  by  a  liberal  subscription,  and  escorted  to 
his  lodgings  by  a  number  of  respectable  people,  would  have  been 
excommunicated  and  cast  out  of  the  true  church ;  the  devil  would 
have  been  painted  on  his  back ;  he  would  have  been  led  to  the  stake; 
and,  in  the  devouring  flames,  would  have  glutted  the  vengeance 
of  the  priesthood,  amid  the  unhallowed  hallelujahs  of  their  d^ 
luded  votaries.  i        '  i 


!;■ 


CHAPTER  LXVIII. 

Journey   to   Harmony. 

X  SHALL  nov/  introduce  by  name  a  fellow-traveller.  Dr.  Isaac 
Cleaver,  of  Philadelphia.  This  gentleman  travelled  in  the  stage 
with  me  from  Bedford  ;  we  lodged  together  at  Pittsburg;  and  we 
now  agreed  to  travel  together  to  visit  the  Harmonist  Society. 
^^'ith  this  view,  we  })rocured  a  couple  of  hacks,  very  sorry  ones, 
indeed,  and  set  out  from  Pittsburg,  on  Monday,  the  20th  of  Au- 
gust, at  6  o'clock  in  the  morning. 

We  crossed  the  Allegany  by  a  boat.  It  is  here  about  400  yards 
broad,  and  the  deepest  part  of  it  seven  feet.  The  current  is  gentle, 
and  the  water  remarkably  pure.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river 
there  is  a  narrow  bottom  of  very  rich  land,  after  passing  which  we 
ascended  pretty  steep  hills,  and  by  a  rougli  road  reached  a  tavern 
eight  miles  from  the  river.      The  day  was  now  very  hot,  but  we 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


321 


caulJonly  stop  a  few  minutes,  ami  moved  on  six  mik'S,  to  Dixon's 
tavern,  where  we  found  the  landlord  completely  drunk.  The  day 
continuing  uncommonly  hot,  we  rested  licre  about  half  an  hour, 
mil,  after  travelling  about  a  mile,  we  reaciieil  the  plain.,  so  called 
from  being  a  sort  of  meadow,  and  destitute  of  trees.  Mere  we 
were  entirely  without  shade,  and  the  force  of  the  sun  nearly  over- 
iwwerecl  us.  I  never  recollect  to  have  suffered  so  much  from  the 
heat;  and  we  got  no  relief  till  after  travelling  four  miles,  when 
we  reached  another  Uivern  at  the  further  end  of  the  plains,  where 
we  fouml  a  sober,  industrious  family,  busily  employed  in  domestic 
manufactures. 

The  whole  country,  from  Pittsburg  to  this  place,  is  rather  rough 
and  uncultivated ;  and  land  sells  at  from  two  to  three  dollars  per 
acre.  Beyond  this,  as  we  continued  our  journey,  we  found  the 
country  to  improve,  and  approaching  the  precincts  of  the  Harmo- 
nist Society,  we  passed  some  of  their  well  cultivated  farms.  I  lere 
the  road  passes  over  a  considerable  hill,  and  on  reaching  the  top, 
we  saw  at  a  little  distance  the  town  of  Harmony,  elegantly  situ- 
ated amid  flourishing  and  well  cultivated  fiehls.  We  reached  the 
town  at  3  o'clock,  and  proceeded  to  the  tavern,  an  excellent  stone 
building,  where  we  found  good  accommodations. 

Before  I  proceed  to  state  our  transactions  at  this  place,  I  shall 
give  an  account  of  the  rise  and  progress  of  the  Harmonist  Society. 
It  is  chiefly  extracted  from  the  appendix  to  Cumming's  Western 
Tour,  published  at  Pittsburg;  and  as  we  had  it  revised  and  cor- 
rected by  Mr.  Frederic  Ilapp,  its  authenticity  may  be  relied  on. 

"  The  society  had  its  origin  in  Wurtember^r,  in  Oermany,  about 
the  year  1785.  The  Lutheran  religion  was  then  predominant  in 
the  country,  to  which  every  subject  was  obligetl  to  submit.  No- 
body durst  venture  to  contradict  the  laws  given  by  the  consistory ; 
and  no  person  was  left  free  to  believe  any  system  of  religion  to  be 
true,  except  what  was  promulgated  by  teachers  appointed  by  that 
body.  The  fundamental  principles  which  Luther  deduced  from 
the  doctrines  of  Jesus  Christ  and  his  apostles,  were  almost  wholly  de- 
stroyed; and  in  place  of  religon  being  made  a  principle  to  regener- 
ate the  mind,  and  regulate  the  life,  it  was  converted  into  an  engine 
of  power,  to  keep  the  people  in  check  to  the  civil  government. 

"  This  decline  of  the  church  was  seen  and  felt  by  George  Ilapp, 
who  found  himself  impelled  to  bear  testimony  to  the  fundamental 
principles  of  the  christian  religion;  and  he  soon  got  a  number  of 

41 


\A'^^ 


3'2*i  TRA\T.r,S    IN 

ndheronts,  who  formed  thcniselvcs  into  n  society.  lint  tlicv  wcrr 
des|)i!>eil  and  persecuted  by  the  consistoiy,  who  often  subjected  ihm 
to  fines  and  imprisonment,  because  tliey  would  not  go  to  the  iMalv 
lished  church.  Hut  they  persevered,  and  the  persecution  they  en- 
dured oncreaseil  the  members  of  the  society.  Under  these  cir- 
cumstances they  jrroaned  for  delivcrunce,  and  wished  for  a  resi- 
dence ill  home  part  of  the  worhl,  where  tlicy  iniglit  enjoy  religious 
toleration,  and  be  permitted  to  worship  Gon  according  to  tlie 
dictates  of  their  consciences,  unmolested  by  man.  Some  proposals 
were  made  to  allow  them  a  piece  of  land  in  France,  and  at  last 
in  their  own  country ;  but  the  providence  of  God  has  ruled  tlie 
matter  in  another  way.  He  discovered  to  the  society  America, 
as  if  he  had  said,  "  that  is  the  country  where  you  shall  serve  nic, 
and  where  you  shall  confess  my  name."  Accordingly  the  society 
ilctermined  unanimously  to  go  to  America,  and  Mr.  Rnpp,  and 
some  others,  were  appointed  to  go  before  them  and  seek  out  an 
eligible  situation  in  that  country. 

"  The  deputies  arrived  in  safety  at  Philadelj)hia  in  the  ycir 
1803,  and  passing  into  the  western  country,  they  fixed  on  a  situ- 
ation, and  wrote  to  their  friends.  In  the  year  1804',  the  whole 
society,  consisting  of  150  or  160  families,  embarked  in  three  ves- 
sels at  Amsterdam.  One  of  these  arrived  at  Baltimore,  and  the 
other  two  at  Philadelphia,  where  Mr.  llapp  was  waiting  to  receive 
them ;  and.  from  thence  they  had  to  take  a  troublesome  overland 
journey  of  320  miles.  In  November,  40  of  these  flimilies  moved  to 
the  westward ;  and,  notwithstanding  the  lateness  of  the  season, 
they  built  nine  log  houses,  in  which  they  resided  during  the  win- 
ter. Next  spring  50  more  families  arrived,  wliich  brought  the 
society  to  90  families;  and  in  February,  1805,  the  society  was  or- 
ganized into  one  body,  by  a  eonsitution  grounded  on  Acts  iv.  32. 
And  the  mnltilnde  of  them  that  believed  weie  of  one  heart,  ami oj 
one  soul:  neither  said  any  of  them  that  aught  of  the  things  he  ps^ 
sessed  xvas  his  own,  but  tuey  had  all  things  common. 

"Thus  constituted,  they  laid  out  a  town,  and  in  comnicniora- 
tion  of  their  unity  of  sentiment,  and  brotherly  affection,  they  call- 
ed it  Harmony;  and  from  henceforth  they  continued  to  labour  in 
brotherly  association,  and  in  common.  This  year  they  built  46 
log  houses,  1 8  fjet  by  24 ;  a  large  barn ;  and  a  grist  mill,  to 
which  a  race  was  dug  of  nearly  three  quarters  of  a  mile  in  length. 
150  acres  of  ground  were  cleared  for  f:orn,  40  for  potatoes,  ana 
15  for  meadow. 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


32S 


«' In  1806  they  built  un  inn,  pnrtly  of  stone,  32  feet  by  42,  und 
two  stories  high  ;  a  frame  burn  100  feet  long;  un  oil-mill;  n  blue- 
dver's  shop ;  nnil  they  sunk  a  tannery.  .100  acres  t)f  laiiil  were 
cleared  for  corn,  and  .W  for  meadow. 

"  In  ISO?  they  erected  a  brick  .store-hou.  •,  a  saw-mill,  and  a  brew- 
frv.  too  acres  of  land  wcTe  cleared  for  grain  and  meadow,  and  four 
acres  of  vines  were  planted.  'J'his  year  they  sohl  of  their  produce  und 
manufactures,  600  bushels  of  grain,  niul  3000  gallons  of  whiskey. 

"In  1808  they  built  a  meeting-house  of  brick,  70  feet  by  53; 
a  brick  dwelling-house,  atui  some  other  buildings,  and  stables  for 
cattle ;  a  frame  barn,  80  fc-et  long ;  and  a  bridge  220  feet  loni; 
over  the  C  onaquenesing  creek,  A  considerable  (juantity  of  ground 
was  cleared,  and  they  sold  2000  bushels  of  grain,  und  numufac- 
turcd  1 100  into  whiskey. 

"In  1S09  they  built  a  fulling  mill,  which  does  a  great  deal  of 
bubincss  for  the  country;  a  hemp  mill,  an  oil  mill,  a  grist  mill,  a 
brick  warehouse,  46  feet  by  30,  having  a  wine  cellar,  completely 
arciicd  over;  and  another  brick  building  of  the  same  dimensions. 
A  considerable   quantity  of  laud  was   cleared.     The  produce   of 
this  year  was,  6000  bushels  of  Indian  corn,  4-500  bushels  of  wheat, 
1500  bushels  of  rye,  5000  bushels  of  outs,   10,000  bushels   of  po- 
tatoes,  4000  lbs.  of  flax  and  hemp,   100  bushels  of  barley  brewed 
iiilo  beer,  an<l  50  gallons  of  sweet  oil,  made  from  the  white  poj'py, 
ami  equal  to   the  imported  olive  oil.     Of  this  produce  they  sold 
3000  bushels  of  corn,  1000  bushels  of  potatoes,  1000  bushels  of 
I  wheat;  and  they  distilled  1600  bushels  of  rye. 

"In  1810  a  wool-carding   machine  and  two  spinning  jennies 

were  erected,  for  the  fabrication  of  broad  cloth  from  the  wool  of 

merino  sheep.     A  frame  barn  was  built  100  feet  long,  and  a  brick 

house  built  to  accommodate  20  weavers'  looms  in  the  untler  story  ; 

|thesccondto  be  deitined   for  a  school-room." 

The  improvements  were  going  on  rapidly  when  we  visited  them, 
Und  every  thing  wore  the  appearance  of  an  old  established  settle- 
ment. A  great  variety  of  articles  of  the  manufactiu'e  of  the  socie- 
ty had  been  sold,  besides  the  produce  of  the  ground;  such  as 
shoe*,  boots,  saddles,  smith-work,  cloth,  &c. ;  and  these  and 
other  manufactures  were  rapidly  increasing.  A  more  full  develope- 
ImentofUieir  principles  and  economy,  will  appear  from  theobjecti* 
jthatcame  under  our  view,  in  the  course  of  our  visit. 

On  our  arrival  at  the  inn,  w'c  Icarnetl  that  the  innkeeper  was  one 
of  the  society,  and  had  been  r.ppointed  to  thai  station  bccauie  be 


'::r^ 


m 


324 


TRAVELS   IN 


could  talk  the  English  language  fluently.  He  told  us  that  we 
would  get  every  information  that  we  could  desire.  My  fellow. 
traveller  inquired  whether  they  had  a  doctor,  and  on  heincr  an- 
swcrcd  in  the  aflirmative,  he  was  sent  for,  and  as  he  could  also 
talk  the  English  language,  and  was  moreover  very  agreeahle  in  hij 
manners,  and  an  excellent  botanist,  we  were  happy  in  the  proffer 
of  his  services.  We  had  next  a  visit  from  Mr.  llapp,  his  sons 
and  several  other  members  of  the  society.  The  old  man's  face 
beamed  with  intelligence,  and  he  appeared  to  have  a  conscious- 
ness of  having  performed  a  good  work  ;  but  he  could  not  speak 
English,  and  as  we  could  only  communicate  our  sentiments  bv 
an  interpreter,  we  had  but  little  conversation  with  him.  Having 
collected  a  great  variety  of  information  regarding  the  society,  we 
took  a  walk  round  the  town,  viewed  the  creek  on  which  it  is  built, 
and  returned  to  the  inn,  ^vhcre  we  found  good  attendance,  and  ex- 
cellent accommodations. 

At  sun-ri«enext  morning  we  heard  the  bell  ring,  andin  a  quarter  of 
an  hour  thereafter,  the  people  were  at  their  respective  employments; 
nil  was  bustle  and  activity.  The  innkeeper  accompanied  us  to  sec 
the  society's  shepherds  and  sheep.  We  passed  Conaquenesing  creek, 
by  a  wooden  bridge,  ornamented  with  flowers,  and  obserA'ed  a  low 
lijeadow  on  our  Icit,  which  we  were  informed  had  been  drained 
with  a  good  deal  of  labour,  and  was  now  converted  into  excellent 
])astarc  ground;  a  pleasure  garden  called  the  labyrinth,  and  a 
botanic  garden,  being  in  the  east  end  of  it,  right  opposite  to  the 
bridge.  Beyond  this,  on  the  side  of  the  creek,  were  various 
liouses  for  dying,  fulling,  and  dressing  cloth.  The  ground  rises 
to  a  considerable  elevation  on  the  north  side  of  the  creek,  and  on 
our  way  up  we  perceived  about  100  sheep,  which  we  were  told 
had  just  arrived  from  Washington,  Pennsylvania,  and  had  not 
yet  been  distributed  among  the  main  flock.  On  arriving  at  tlie 
slieep-pens,  we  found  the  flock  to  consist  of  about  1000,  and  tlicy 
were  separated  into  three  divisions.  The  first  were  all  of  the  me- 
rino breed,  the  most  of  them  full  blooded  ;  the  second  about  lialt 
merinos  and  half  common  ;  and  the  third  were  all  common,  with 
.some  merino  rams  amongst  them. .  They  were  under  the  charge 
of  three  shepherds,  who  sleep  beside  them  all  night  in  moveable 
tents ;  and  a  watchman  from  the  town  attends  them  during  tlie 
night.  We  were  informed  that  the  society  intended  to  increase 
the  flock,  as  fast  as  possible,  to  3000 ;  and   to  progress  with  t''^ 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


325 


manufacture  of  woollen  cloth,  which  they  found  very  lucrative,  as 
fast  as  circumstances  would  permit. 

After  breakfast  we  visited  the  different  branches  of  manutacture. 
In  the  wool-loft,  eif^ht  or  ten  women  were  employed  in  tcasiupf 
and  sorting  the  wool  for  the  carding  machine,  which  is  at  a  dis- 
tance on  the  creek.  From  thence  the  roves  arc  brought  to  the 
spinning-house,  in  the  town,  where  we  found  two  roving  billies 
and  six  spinning  jennies  at  work.  They  were  principally  wrought 
bv  young  girls,  and  they  appeared  perfectly  happy,  singing  church 
music  most  melodiously.  In  the  weaving-house  16  looms  were 
at  work,  besides  several  warpers  and  winders. 

In  our  way  through  the  town  we  ol)ficrved  shoemakers,  taylors, 
and  saddlers  at  work  ;  and  we  passed  on  to  view  the  smith-work, 
which  is  very  extensive.  They  have  4<  or  5  forges  for  ordinary 
work,  and  one  for  nails,  at  which  we  were  diverted  by  observing  a 
(log  turning  a  wheel  for  blowing  the  bellows.  It  brought  to  my  re- 
collection the  remark  made  on  the  English  by  Dr.  Franklin's  negro 
boy,  "  Dese  people  make  ebery  thing  workee,  only  de  hog." 

From  the  blacksmith's  we  passed  to  the  barns,  which,  we  were 
told  contained  a  stock  ox  grain  suiHcicnt  to  last  a  year,  and  that 
it  was  the  intention  of  the  society  to  keep  up  that  stock ;  but  they 
(lid  not  mean  to  raise  any  grain  for  sale,  their  object  being  to  ap- 
ply all  the  surplus  labour  of  the  society  to  manufactures.  Con- 
tigr.ous  to  the  barns  is  an  orchard,  containing  about  25  acres  of 
ground,  well  stocked  with  grafted  fruit-trees,  though  they  have 
not  yet  come  to  maturity.  A  hemp-brake,  on  a  new  construc- 
tion, the  model  of  which  they  got  from  Kentucky,  was  behind  the 
barns.  It  is  driven  by  two  horses,  and  is  found  to  answer  remark- 
ably well.  In  this  neighbourhood  is  the  brew-house  :  but  it  was 
not  in  operation  when  we  saw  it.  It  is  a  convenient  building, 
and  at  the  back  of  it  is  a  hop-garden,  and  part  of  the  hop»  were 
growing  in  at  the  windows.  We  likewise  observed  them  growing 
very  luxuriantly  in  most  of  the  gardens  in  the  town ;  so  that  the 
materials  for  beer  anil  porter  must  be  very  abundant.  We  hud 
wine  of  the  porter  at  the  tavern,  of  as  good  quality  as  1  have  ever 
tasted  in  London. 

After  dinner  we  visited  the  soap  and  candle  works;  the  dye 
works;  shearing  and  dressing  works;  the  turners,  carpenters,  and 
machine-makers ;  and,  finally,  we  were  conducted  through  the 
^areho«<!cs,  which  wo   found  plentifully  stored  with  commodities; 


10  J 

/it 


■  >(•- 


3Q6 


TRAVELS    IN 


^mong  others,  we  saw  450  pieces  of  broad  and  narrow  cloth,  part 
of  it  of  merino  woo],  and  of  as  good  a  fabric  as  any  that  was  over 
made  in  England.  We  were  told  that  they  could  sell  the  best 
broad  cloth,  as  fast  as  made,  at  10  dollars  per  yard. 

From  the  warehouses  we  went  to  the  Labyrinth,  which  is  a  most 
elegant  flower-garden,  with  various  hedge-rows,  disposed  in  such 
a  manner  as  to  puzzle  people  to  get  into  the  little  temple,  emble- 
matical of  Harmony,  in  the  middle.  Mr.  Ilapp  abruptly  left  us 
as  we  entered,  and  wc  soon  observed  him  over  the  hedge-rows, 
taking  his  scat  before  the  house.  I  found  my  way  with  diflicultj; 
but  the  doctor,  whom  I  left  on  purj.ose,  could  not  find  it,  anil 
Mr.  Ilapp  had  to  point  it  out  to  him.  The  garden  and  tcnij/le 
are  emblematical.  The  Labyrinth  represents  the  difficulty  of  arriv- 
ing at  Harmony.  The  temple  is  rough  in  the  exterior,  showinnt 
that,  at  a  distance,  it  has  no  allurements ;  but  it  is  smooth  and 
beautiful  within,  to  show  the  beauty  of  harmony  when  once  at- 
tained. 

From  the  Labyrinth  we  went  to  the  Botanic  garden,  which  is 
well  stored  with  valuable  plants  and  herbs ;  and  the  two  doctors 
pored  over  them  more  than  an  hour.  We  afterwards  went  to  the 
doctor's  house,  where  he  showed  us  an  elegant  collection  of  plants, 
all  natives  of  Harmony,  which  he  had  carefully  arranged  agreea- 
bly to  the  Linnaean  system. 

In  the  evening  the  society  assembled  to  divine  service,  and  we 
attended,  accompanied  by  our  innkeeper,  who  conducted  us  to 
a  seat  appropriated  for  strangers.  The  church  was  quite  full,  the 
number  of  persons  being  not  less  than  500.  The  women  sat  all 
in  one  end  ;  the  men  in  the  other.  They  were  singing  a  hymn, 
in  which  they  all  joined  with  one  accord,  and  so  simply,  yet  so 
sweetly,  did  they  sing,  that  it  brought  to  my  recollection  the  pa.i- 
sage  in  Burns'  Cotter's  Satuc'day  Night: 

Tliey  chaiint  their  artles?  notes  in  simple  guise, 
lliey  tune  their  hc&rts,  by  far  the  nublest  aim.    ' 

After  singing,  they  all  knelt  down  to  prayer.  We  followed  their 
example;  and  never  did  I  pray  more  devoutly.  I  did  not  under- 
stand one  word  of  the  prayer;  but  I  saw  that  this  interesting  so- 
ciety were  under  the  influence  of  the  spirit  of  God,  and  that 
**  they  worshipped  him  with  reverence,  and  with  godly  fear." 
Tears  of  joy  came  into  my  eyes  as  I  exclaimed  mcntally» 
**  This,    indeed,   is  true  Christianity ; — this,    unlike  the  solcnm 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


827 


w  clotli,  part 
that  wjis  ever 
sell  the  best 

lich  is  a  most 
losecl  ill  such 
mple,  cmble- 
iruptly  left  us 
c  heilgc-roNvs, 
,'ith  difllculty ; 
t  find  it,  and 
sn  and  tcmiile 
iculty  of  arriv- 
erior,  showing 
is  smooth  and 
when  once  at- 

rdcn,   which  is 

le  two  doctors 

•ds  went  to  the 

iction  of  plants, 

•anged  agreea- 

2rvice,  and  we 
inducted  us  to 
quite  full,  tbe 
1  women  sat  all 
Inging  a  hymn, 
simply,  yet  so 
llcction  the  pa»- 


le  followed  their 
I  did  not  under- 
interesting  so- 
bod,    and  that 
)h  godly  tear." 
[med    mentally, 
Ike  the  solemn 


mockfiries  of  interested  priests,  who  have  turned  religion  into  a 
trade,  and  the  temple  of  the  Lord  into  a  den  of  thcivcs — this  U 
worshipping  God  in  spirit  and  in  truth.  It  contributes  to  true 
felicity  here,  and  prepares  the  soul  for  consummate  bliss  hereafter." 
After  prayer,  Mr.  Rapp  delivered  a  sermon  witli  great  animation, 
to  which  all  the  congregation  paid  the  most  devout  attention ; 
after  which,  with  a  short  prayer  and  benediction,  he  dismissed 
the  assembly. 

Our  guide  told  us  to  remain  a  little,  as  they  had,  on  our  ac- 
count, requested  the  band  of  music. to  attend.  They  assembled 
before  the  pulpit  with  their  various  instruments,  namely,  threu 
violins  and  a  bass,  a  clarinet,  a  flute,  and  two  French  horns. 
On  these  they  entertained  us  with  a  great  viriety  of  airs,  the  most 
of  them  of  the  solemn  kind,  and  some  of  them  accompanied  by 
vocal  music. 

After  our  return  to  the  inn,  we  heard  tlic  night-watch  calling, 
"Again  ad  y  i«  past,  and  a  step  made  nearer  to  our  end;  our 
time  runs  u  ind  the  joys  of  Heaven  arc  our  reward."  Tlicy 
repeat  the  •  '  sentence  at  11,  12,  1,  and  2  o'clock,  and  at  3 
they  call,  "  ^igain  a  night  is  past,  and  the  morning  is  come ;  our 
time  runs  away,  and  the  joys  of  Heaven  are  our  reward." 

The  town  is  watched  by  two  men,  and  the  society  take  it  by 
turns.  It  falls,  at  present,  on  each  l^  nights  in  the  year  ;  the 
watching  of  the  sheep  tails  on  each  one  night. 

August  22d.  This  day,  accompanied  by  the  society's  doctor, 
we  went  to  see  the  mills  and  machinery.  In  out  way  we  passed 
through  one  of  the  vineyards,  which  is  situated  on  the  face  of  a 
steep  hill,  on  the  north  side  of  the  creek,  and  is  converted  into  a 
number  of  terraces,  supported  by  walls  of  stone,  in  the  manner 
that  they  cultivate  the  hills  in  China.  We  ascended  by  a  regu- 
lar flight  of  137  steps;  and  from  the  top  we  had  a  fine  view  of  the 
Iwhole  settlement,  and  of  the  country  round.  We  were  told  it 
jwas  the  intention  of  the  society  to  build  a  little  temple  here,  to  be 
jcalled  Harmony  Hall,  where  they  would  occasionally  practise 
Inuisic.  From  thence  we  went  to  the  eastward  about  a  mile, 
Itliroiigh  a  wood,  and  came  to  a  cultivated  valley,  through  v>  liidi 
Iruns  Little  Conaquenesing  creek.  Here  the  society  have  built  a 
Substantial  stone  house,  in  which  are  a  grist-mill,  a  hemp-mill,  an 
uil-mill,  a  fulling-mill,  and    a   carding  machine.     In  the  oil-mill 

lliry  crush  pumpkin-seed,  which  yields  good  oil,  and  food  for  the 


'km 


H- 


32S 


TRAVELS    IN 


cattle.  We  crossed  over  the  valley,  which  ubuuiided  with  grain 
clover,  and  hemp,  about  a  mile,  to  Large  Coiiaqiienesii)g  cieik 
where  the  masons  and  labourers  were  at  work  building  a  very  ele- 
gant mill  of.  hewn  stone,  which,  when  finished,  will  be  a  most  im- 
portant addition  to  the  society's  improvements.  It  is  impossible 
to  convey  any  adequate  idea  of  the  diligent  industry  and  pcrsevcr- 
ance  of  this  extraordinary  people  :  wherever  we  went  we  found  them 
all  activity  and  contentment.  Here,  at  a  situation  where  they  could 
not  carry  the  clay  for  bedding  the  dam  in  wheel- barrows,  they  were 
carrying  it  iu  baskets  upon  their  backs ;  but  they  have  every  in- 
ducement  to  perseverance — they  are  all  on  an  equal  footing — cvciy 
member  is  equally  interested  in  the  good  of  the  society. 

In  this  neighbourhood  the  society  have  a  village,  where  the  doc- 
tor having  to  visit  a  patient,  who  was  the  supeiintendant,  we  ac- 
companied him.  On  entering  the  house  we  found  the  family  at  din- 
ner, and  we  were  invited  to  partake  of  it.  We  did  not  much  like 
the  appearance  of  the  dish,  which  was  called  noodles;  but  on  tast- 
ing it  we  found  it  to  be  very  palatable,  and  on  it,  and  some  eggs, 
with  bread  and  milk,  we  made  a  very  excellent  dinner.  Xoodks 
is  made  in  this  way  :  a  quantity  of  flour  is  kneaded  into  a  paste, 
and  is  cut  into  small  slices ;  these  are  mixed  with  small  pieces  of  beef 
or  mutton,  and  they  are  boiled  together,  with  or  without  seasoning, 
as  the  taste  of  the  cook  may  determine. 

We  returned  to  the  town,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  distant,  and 
in  our  way  passed  the  brick-works  and  burial-ground ;  which  laft 
is  prettily  situated  on  a  sloping  ground,  railed  in :  but  no  grave* 
stones  are  erected, — the  plan  of  the  society  being  to  ornament  it 
with  flowers. 

In  the  course  of  our  journey  the  doctor  told  us  a  remarkable  a- 
necdote.  One  of  the  boys  at  school  was  observed,  ©ne  day,  to  weep, 
and  on  being  asked  wh.it  was  the  matter,  he  said  he  was  afraid  lii' 
had  been  very  wicked.  A  number  of  the  others  cau^'^ht  the  infection, 
and  began  also  to  cry.  It  ultimately  pervaded  the  whole  scliool, 
and  nothing  would  satisfy  the  children  until  they  called  on  Mr. 
Ilapp,  the  pastor,  and  made  a  confession  of  their  transgressions. 
From  the  young,  the  spirit  of  contrition  fell  upon  the  more  maturul 
in  years,  who,  one  by  one, waited  upon  Mr.Kapp,  to  make  their  con- 
fession. Of  the  number  was  the  doctor,  who  told  us  he  found  him- 
self impelled  by  an  impulse  which  was  irresistible  to  vait  on  Mr  I 
Kapp  also :  to  him  he  laid  open  his  whole  heart ;  on  which  the  oWj 


PBNNSVLVAKIA. 


S29 


ed  with  grain, 
enesing  cretk 
ing  a  very  el^ 
be  a  most  im- 
[t  is  impossible 
^  and  perscvcr- 
we  found  them 
lierc  they  could 
rows,  they  were 
have  every  in- 
footing — evciy 
ety. 

where  the  iloc- 
cndant,  we  ac* 
le  family  at  din- 
d  not  much  like 
es ;  but  on  tast- 
and  some  eggs, 
nncr.      Noodles 
jd  into  a  paste, 
lall  pieces  of  beef 
ithout  seasoning, 


man  pressed  him  to  his  bosom,  told  him  that  now  he  knew  hia  whole 
soul,  and  those  of  the  other  members  of  the  society,  he  had  perfect 
confidence  in  them,  and  was  assured  tlrat  tliey  would  persevere  in 
the  good  work  they  had  begun,  which  would  be  a  life  of  heavenly 
joy  and  rejoicing  in  this  world,  and  it  would  terminate  in  a  state  of 
everlasting  felicity  in  the  next. 

Ob  our  return  to  the  village  we  went  to  sec  the  bee-hives.  They 
were  situated  in  a  shed,  built  on  purpose,  with  a  southern  exposure, 
and  a  flowering  shrubbery  was  in  front  of  them.  There  were  a- 
boot  40  hives,  and  they  appeared  all  in  a  thriving  condition,  and 
equally  industrious  with  their  employers ;  who,  in  retm'n,  bestowed 
great  attention  upon  them,  and  took  the  produce  of  their  surplus 
hbour  without  destroying  their  lives. 

We  were  informed  that  the  society  got  a  considerable  quantity 
of  their  materials  for  manufactures  from  their  own  produce,  and 
from  the  country  round.  Wrought  iron  they  ^tt  from  Pitts- 
burg, and  cast  iron  irom  Beaver.  They  keep  an  assortment  of  dry- 
goods  and  groceries,  which  they  get  principally  from  Philadelphia  ; 
iUid,as  they  dispose  of  them  at  a  moderate  profit,  they  have  an  ex- 
tensive sale  in  the  country.  They  dress  cloth  to  the  country  people 
from  50  to  €0  miles  distant. 

The  town  of  Harmony  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  Conaque- 
nesing  creek,  and  the  property  of  the  society  extends  round  it ;  to 
the  west  about  half  a  mile;  to  the  east  two  miles  and  a  half;  to  the 
north  about  tiir^e  miles ;  and  to  the  south  three  miles.  They  have 
about  9000  acres  of  land,  of  which  2500  acres  are  in  a  state  of  cul- 
tivation; and,  besides  the  town,  they  have  three  fiimiing  villages, 
and  some  farmers  in  detached  parts  of  the  settlement.  The  land 
is  pretty  fertile,  producing  abundantly  grain,  grass,  fruit,  vegeta- 
bles, hemp,  and  flax. 

The  town  ig  regularly  laid  out.  There  is  a  square  of  75  by  100 
feet,  in  the  middle;  and  three  streets  run  cast  and  west,  and  three 
north  and  south,  crossing  one  another  at  right  angles.  The  main 
street  is  50  feet  wide,  and  the  others  S2  feet.  The  town  is  subdivid- 
ed into  lots  of  a  quarter  of  an  acre  each,  and  every  family  has  its 
own  house  and  lot,  with  a  couple  of  milk  cows,  and  as  many  hogs 
and  poultry  as  they  choose  to  keep.  The  rest  of  their  provisions, 
and  their  clothing,  is  iurnisdicd  by  the  society ;  in  return,  their  la- 
bour falls  into  tlie  common  stock*  Hence  every  family  is,  in  effect, 
independent  within  itself,  as  far  as  domestic  arrangemCJits  arc  con- 

42 


'!*.. 


330 


TUAvELS    IN 


ceriied ;  and  tiicy  arc  nil  united,  at  the  same  time,  in  a  body,  the 
joint  effect  of  whose  labour  is  irresistible.  The  town  at  present  con- 
iiists  mostly  of  log-houses ;  but  as  soon  as  the  public  buildings  are 
finished,  a  brick-house  is  to  be  built  for  each  member. 

The  society  now  consists  of  about  800  persons ;  and  the  operative 
members  are  nearly  as  follow :  100  farmers,  three  shepherds,  lo 
masons,  three  stone-cutters,  three  brick-makers,  10  carpenters,  two 
sawyers,  10  smiths,  two  waggon-makers,  three  turners,  two  nailors, 
seven  coopers,  three  rope -makers,  10  shoemakers,  two  saddlers, 
three  tanners,  seven  taylors,  one  soap-boiler,  one  brewer,  four  dis- 
tillers, one  gardener,  two  grist-millers,  two  oil-millers,  one  butcher 
six  joiners,  six  dyers,  dressers,  shearers,  &c.,  one  fuller,  two  hatters, 
two  potters,  two  warpers,  17  weavers,  two  carders,  eight  spinners, 
one  rover,  one  minister  of  religion,  one  schoolmaster,  one  doctor, 
one  store-keeper  with  two  assistants,  and  one  tavern-keeper  with 
one  assistant. 

The  basis  of  the  society  is  religion,  and  all  their  temporal  con- 
cerns are  managed  in  subserviency  to  it.  The  greater  part  of  the 
people  were  bred  in  the  Lutheran  persuasion,  and  their  views  of  re- 
ligion are  nearly  in  conformity  to  it ;  but  the  principles  which  bind 
them  together  as  a  society  may  be  shortly  expressed :  love  to  god- 
goodwill  TOWARDS  MEN — PURITY   OF   LIFE — AND   A    COMMUNITY 

OF  GOODS.  The  pastor  is  considered  as  having  the  call  of  God ; 
his  prayers  and  sermons  are  delivered  extempore  :  and  if  he  be  in- 
disposed or  absent,  the  society  meet  and  confer  on  religious  sub- 
jects. He  is  assisted  in  themanagementof  the  religious  concerni 
by  elders  and  deacons  appointed  by  the  society. 

The  youth  of  the  society  are  kept  at  school  until  they  are  14  years 
old.  The  school  huurs  are  in  the  forenoon,  and  the  afternoon  is  de- 
voted to  such  labour  as  they  can  easily  p'^rform,  it  being  a  branch 
of  the  economy  of  the  society  to  teach  the  youth  to  labour  as  well  as 
to  read  and  write.  They  are  taught  both  the  German  and  Enghsh 
languages,  with  writing  and  Arithmetic,  and  such  as  may  be  des- 
tined for  the  study  of  medicine  will  receive  a  college  education.  At 
14?  the  male  youths  make  choice  of  a  profession,  and  learn  it  where 
it  is  carried  on  in  the  society.  The  females,  at  the  same  age,  are 
occupied  in  the  usual  branches  of  female  labour. 
•  On  Sunday  the  society  meet  in  their  religious  capacity,  at  9 
o'clock,  in  the  school -room,  to  examine  the  children,  who  exhibit 
different  specimens  of  their  performances.      This  ends  about  11. 


PENNSYLVANU.'  S3\ 

They  meet  in  the  church  at  12,  when  they  go  through  the  same  ex- 
ercises as  those  before  noticed,  which  lasts  about  an  hour  and  a  half. 
Tliey  have  another  meeting  at  6  o'clock  in  the  evening ;  and  besides 
the  meetings  on  Sunday,  they  have  a  sermon  two  nights  in  the 
week.  There  is  no  instance  of  the  church  being- neglected  by  those 
who  are  well  and  able  to  walk.  It  is  their  delight  to  attend  it,  and 
die  religious  and  moral  deportment  of  the  whole  society  is  highly 
praiseworthy.  There  is  no  vicious  habit  among  them.  There  is 
not  an  instance  of  swearing,  or  lyin^^  or  debauchery  of  any  kind  J 
and  as  to  cheating,  so  commonly  practised  in  civilized  society,  they 
have  no  temptation  to  it  whatever.  As  individuals,  they  have  no 
use  for  money — and  they  have  no  fear  of  want. 

The  temporal  concerns  are  conducted  in  a  very  orderly  manner, 
having  supcrintendants  in  each  branch,  who  manage  them  under 
the  general  direction  of  the  society.  There  are  five  master  farmers, 
one  master  mason,  one  master  shoemaker,  (who  cuts  out  all  the  lea- 
ther,) one  master  taylor,  and  so  on  of  the  other  branches.  Freder- 
ick Rapp  superintends  the  manufacturing  establishment ;  and  has 
the  general  direction,  under  the  society,  of  all  the  money  matters, 
and  mercantile  concerns. 

When  the  society  was  first  established  here,  the  whole  of  their 
property,  after  defraying  their  expences,  amounted  to  only  about 
20,000  dollars,  and  this  was  soon  exhausted  in  the  payment  of 
thelafiJ,  and  in  supporting  themselves  until  they  could  bring  their 
industry  into  operation.  Thus,  without  money,  and  without  credit, 
they  suffered  great  privations,  m  consequence  of  which  a  number 
of  their  members  shrunk  from  the  difficulty,  and  retired  into  the 
state  of  Ohio,  to  provide  for  themselves  in  a  separate  capacity.  As 
they  required  what  they  had  put  into  the  common  stock,  the  so- 
ciety were  tli  n  into  s6me  difficulty  to  raise  it;  but  they  got  it 
accomplished,  uiid  they  have  now  drawn  up  written  articles,  to  be 
signed  by  those  who  join  them,  calculated  to  prevent  any  inconve- 
nience of  that  kind  in  future.  By  those  articles,  such  as  may 
choose  vo  retire  are  entitled  to  demand  all  that  they  put  into  the 
concern  by  certain  instalments,  but  no  interest.  Any  person  may 
join  the  society,  and  the  mode  of  doing  so  is  equally  simple  with  all 
their  other  regulations.  The  candidate  intimates  his  intention, 
and  is  received  upon  trial,  for  one  month,  during  which  he  Jives  at 
the  tavern.  If  he  is  then  satisfied,  and  chooses  to  conform  to  their 
principles  of  morality,  (they  have  no  religious  test,)  he  is  forthwith 


•■■■I  ''!«*.«.»,- 


h   .t   ^r 


,'  ^i* ', 


ir 


I;  CI 


332  TRAVELS   tM 

re^scivod  as  a  member,  and  in  entitled  to  all  the  privileges  of  the  iq. 

cjety.     If  he  is  fidi,  he  deposites  all  his  property  in  the  coranion 

stock :  if  he  is  poor,  "  he  has  no  lack ;"  alt  his  wants  are  supplied 
out  ot*  that  stock. 

The  stock  of  the  society  we  estimated  as  follows : 

POOO  acres  of  laud,  with  improvements  dot.  90,OOo 

Stock  of  provisions  for  one  year,  for  800  persons  25,00o 

Mills,  machinery,  and  piiblic  buildings  21,ooo 

Dwelling  houses  18,ooo 

Horses,  cattle,  hogs,  and  poultry                        »  10,000 
1000  sheep,  one-third  of  them  merinos,  of  which 

one  ram  cost   1000  dollars  6,000 
Stock  of  goods,  spirits,  manufactures,  leather, 

implements  of  husbandry,  &c.  &c.  50,000 


dol.  220,000 


It  may  be  remarked,  that  the  society  purchased  then:  land  for 
about  20,000  dollars,  so  that  70,000  doli,  3  of  the  rise  is  upon  it; 
but  they  have  cleared  2500  acres,  which  adds  to  the  value  of  the 
rest,  and  the  rise  of  the  land  in  this  way  is  always  a  favourable 
circumstance  to  new  settlers,  who,  on  the  other  hand,  have 
many  privations  to  undergo. 

It  has  been  doubted  whether  the  society  will  continue  united,  on 
which  alone  depends  their  prosperity.  From  the  principles  on  which 
the  connexion  is  formed,  and  the  objects  they  have  in  view,  I  am  of 
opinion  they  will  not  only  continue  united,  but  that  they  will,  in  all 
probability,  be  a  model  for  other  societies.  If  their  union  continue, 
their  prospects  arc  bright  indeed,  both  for  time  and  eternity. 
Here  they  have  the  mutual  aid  of  each  other,  and  are  free  from 
a  thousand  temptations  to  which  mankind  in  general  are  subjected. 
Having  no  fear  of  want,  they  have  literally  no  care  for  the  mor- 
rpw  J  they  have  no  use  for  money,  "the  love  of  which  is  the  root 
of  all  evil ;"  they  can  attend  to  the  worship  of  the  great  spirit 
with  single  hearts,  and  undivided  minds,  and  all  the  duties  of  life 
are  easy,  because  they  go  hand  in  hand  with  self-interest ;  in  health 
they  have  the  fellowship  of  people  of  the  like  mind  with  themselves; 
in  sickness  they  have  the  advice  and  assistance  of  friends,  on  whom 
they  can  rely  with  perfect  confidence;  of  a  medical  man  who  can 
have  no  wish  but  to  render  them  a  service;    and  of  a  minister  ol 


9ENKSYLVAMA.  333 

religion  to  pour  tho  balm  of  spiritual  consolation  into  tlieir  wound- 
ed spirittt,  *'  without  money,  and  without  price ;"  at  death  they  can 
rffign  their  of!«pring  to  the  charge  of  the  society,  in  the  full  con- 
fidence of  their  well-being ;  which  lunglc  circumstuiice  disarms  the 
trt'm  messenger  of  more  than  half  his  terrors.  And  the  purity  of 
their  life  havmg  fitted  them  for  the  enjoyment  of  God,  they  can 
resign  their  spirits  into  the  hands  of  the  merciful  Father  of  spirits ; 
aiid  their  bodies  being  consigned  to  the  dust,  among  the  abodes  of 
their  brethren,  their  graves  are  io  many  memorials  of  their  virtues. 
On  taking  my  leave,  I  breathed  forth  my  best  wishes  for  the 
prosperity  of  this  interesting  society,  in  the  words  of  my  favouvito 
bard- 
May  frtedom,  harmony,  and  lure, 

Unite  you  in  the  grand  design, 
Beneath  the  Omniscient  eye  above, 

The  glorious  Architect  divine  ! 
That  you  may  keep  th'  unerring  linq, 
':  Still  rising  by  the  plummet's  law, 

Till  order  bright  comjtletelj  shine, 

Shall  be  my  prayer  when  far  awa'.  ' 

We  rode  round  by  ZelLonople,  half  a  mile  from  Harmony, 
where  the  society  first  attempted  to  fix  their  town ;  but  some  differ- 
ence happening  between  them  and  the  proprietor  of  the  grounds, 
they  moved  to  the  eastward,  where  they  are  now  situated ;  and  Ze- 
lionople  looks  like  "  a  deserted  callage,"  having  a  few  miserable 
wooden  houses  only. 

On  our  return,  my  travelling  companion,  who  was  remarkably 
agreeable,  pointed  out  a  great  number  of  valuable  plants  and 
herbs,  and  gave  me  a  little  insight  into  the  important  science  of 
botany;  but  I  found  the  field  t^o  extensive,  that  I  was  obliged  to  de- 
cline following  up  the  study  till  a  mpre  convenient  season.  I  em- 
braced the  opportunity  however  of  remarking  to  my  friend,  that  it 
would  be  an  object  of  great  scientific  importance  to  the  United 
States,  if  some  fit  person  would  make  a  botanicri  and  mineralogi- 
cal  tour ;  and  I  was  convinced  he  would  be  very  well  rewarded  for 
his  trouble  by  the  public.  My  friend  acquiesced  in  my  opinion, 
find  stated  that  nothing  would  give  him  more  pleasure  than  to  exe- 
cute such  a  tour,  of  which  he  had  some  indention  at  a  future  peiiod. 
We  reached  Pittsburg  at  9  o'clock  at  n'ght,  when,  delivering  up 
our  "  sorry  Iiacks,"  we  pursued  our  way  to  our  old  lodgings. 


33k 


TRAVELS   ON 


CHAPTER  LXIX. 

Ohio  Itivevt — Beaver^ — Georgetcwn, — Stubenvillc. 

I  NOW  prepared  to  descend  the  Ohio.  There  arc  various  wayi 
of  travelling  on  that  river,  and  the  traveller  must  adapt  himselt 
to  one  or  other  of  these,  according  to  the  state  of  the  water.  In 
spring  and  fall  the  river  is  high,  and  can  be  navigated  with  ease 
by  any  vesseL  The  spring  freshets  commence  about  the  middle  of 
February,  at  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice,  and  continue  for  three, 
sometimes  four  months.  Those  in  the  fall  commence  in  Octoler, 
and  continue  till  the  middle  or  latter  end  of  December.  But  the 
state  of  the  river  varies  according  to  the  wetness  or  dryness  of  the 
seasons,  and  the  earlincss  or  lateness  of  the  setting  in  of  the 
winter.* 

The  principal  vessels  used  for  descending  the  Ohio,  are  canoes, 
skiffs,  Kentucky  and  New  Orleans  boats,  keel  boats,  and  barges. 
Ships  have  been  constructed  on  the  Ohio,  of  considerable  burden ; 
but  that  trade  is  at  present  nearly  suspended,  and  the  steam-boats 
have  not  yet  gone  into  operation. 

Canoes  are  the  most  simple  of  all  vessels,  and  consist  of  a  log  of 
wood  shaped  into  a  long  boat,  and  excavated  in  the  middle,  so  as 
to  accommodate  passengers  and  their  travelling  equipage.  They 
sell  for  from  one  to  three  dollars. 

-   Skiffs  are  well  known,     lliey  are  built  of  all  sizes,  are  used  with 
or  without  sails,  and  can  be  had  for  from  5  to  SO  dollars. 

Kentucky  and  New  Orleans  boats  are  flats,  with  sides  boarded 
like  a  house,  about  six  or  seven  feet  high,  over  which  there  is  an 
arched  roof.  They  are  of  various  sizes,  but  generally  large  enough 
to  contain  400  barrels  of  flour ;  and  sell  for  from  one  dollar  to  a 
dollar  and  a  half  per  foot  in  length. 

Keel-boats,  so  called  from  being  built  upon  a  small  keel,  are  con- 
structed to  draw  but  little  water,  so  that  they  are  remarkably  well 
adapted  to  the  navigation  of  these  rivers,  and  as  they  are  strongly 
manned,  and  ply  both  upward  and  downward,  they  are  getting  into 
general  use,  and  are  perhaps  the  best  passage  boats  on  the  Ohio. 
The  price  of  them  is  about  two  and  a  half  or  three  dollars  per  foot. 

Barges  are  well  known.     They  also  sail  up  and  down  the  river; 

•  Pittsburg  Navigator.      '* 


^t 


mville. 

re  various  wayi 
adapt  himselt 
the  water.  In 
ated  with  ease 
t  the  middle  of 
inue  for  three, 
ce  in  Octoler, 
nber.  But  the 
dryness  of  the 
Lting  in  of  the 

iO)  are  canoes, 
its,  and  barges. 
erablc  burden ; 
the  steani'boats 

isistof  a  log  of 
middle,  so  as 
uipage.    They 

are  used  with 

ars. 

sides  boarded 

1  there  is  an 

large  enough 
nc  dollar  to  a 

keel,  arecon- 
narkably  well 
?y  are  strongly 
re  getting  into 
on  the  Ohio. 
(liars  per  foot. 
)wn  the  river; 


^fv 


n    If  |i?  * 


'■^?fc*- 


VlXt    7U 


•J^V^ 


)/^»^ 


'k 


0^'- 


■  W- ■ 


•t 


'tV^ 


■<if< 


.„a- 


*  v»5.>, . 


^r^!- 


W-"    L«         P.- 


li 


^.•nsMfi 


'* 


h'^ 


'if. 


■■•J'^v>-'i^M^'  -•^'-n--  ■ 


S^jgJg; 


*hii- 


■I*. 


'»>♦, 


4  .    \    fc    •■       ^4rt--:i(*'     11]   >» 


y. 


% 


*!f't  '     >>■)' 


•A  -i 


mr] 


m. 


rHJ 


^\ 


aii:  t^.Zivfu . 


FALLS  of  OHIO 


"ear,  warm,    and 


THI  OHIO    RIVKR. 


335 


lMiithiiip«cics  of  vessel  i«  principally  used  below  Cincinnati  and 

Tbc  water  was  very  low  when  I  was  at  Pittsburg,  and  was  still 
tubsidiiig;  and  I  learned  that  it  was  with  difficulty  timt  any  vessel 
could  descend,  except  a  skiff.  A  Mr.  Ward,  from  Massachusscts, 
had  made  the  attempt  in  a  keel-bout,  but  it  was  set  fast,  and  he 
was  obliged  to  return  to  Pittsburg.  I  found  that  he  had  made 
an  arrangement  with  the  Frenchman,  my  former  fellow-traveller, 
to  go  with  him  in  a  skiff;  and  I  made  interest  to  be  of  their  partv, 
and  was  admitted. 

The  Frenchman  was  an  original  genius.     He  nad  travelled  r<xr 

and  wide,  by  sea  and  land ;  he  could  talk  thrcu  or  uuv  tuilevent 

languages;  he  had  been  at  as  many  different  professions  ■,  'u^  wok, 

in  short,  a  Jack  of  all  trades,  and  his  name  was  Jean   !.»piisl  Sr- 

Dions.    As  seamanship  wa»  one  of  his  professions,  we  (.i^:ifided  iho 

care  of  the  boat  to  him  and  Mr.  Ward,  and  1  procurtd  die  mjiccs- 

snry  provisions.     The  skiff  was  a  small   vessel,  belonging  Ut  Mr. 

Synions,  having  a  mast  and  sail,  two  oars,  a  sctti'^i^  ^toley  a!ii<\  icA 

I  awning  over  the  stern.     Our  stock  of  provisions  wus  u  lnig<f>  hzcon. 

I  ham,  two  loaves  of  bread,  and  some  cheese,  which  ^v^*  piit  \u  a 

box;  a  quantity  of  crackers,  some  whiskey,  and  a  sm^U  cask  of 

porter.    These  articles,  together  with  our  trunks,  we  put  on  board 

the  skiff,  and  stepping  on  board  ourselves,  in  the  Moaon^vt^.-ela 

river,  at  3  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  we  got  under  weigh.     Ihrnri-^ 

I  no  wind,  we  had  to  man  our  oars;  and,  the  river  being  low,  we 

Ihad  but  little  assistance  from  the  current. 

The  banks  of  the  river  are  steep,  and  rise  to  a  conpidcrtible  ele« 
iTaiion,  when  there  is  generally  a  body  of  level  ground  od  each  side, 
Icalled  bottoms,  from  whence  the  river  hills  rise  t(^  ihe.  i^ei  {'it  ol' 
Ifrom  200  to  500  feet.  The  bottoms  are  very  various  in  exttri», 
liome  of  them  being  a  mile  broud,  and  others  o  li^-  a  few  yards. 
a  deposite  of  rich  earth  from  the  river,  tbey  are  very  fertile. 


On  entering  the  Ohio,  we  had  a  finj.  view  of  the  two  rivers  of 
Iwhich  it  is  composed,  and  of  the  remarkable  contrast  between  their 
haters;  those  of  the  Monoii^uhela  being  muddy,  and  those  of  tij« 
lAllegany  quite  pure  and  transparent.  The  distinction  can  be 
■noticed  a  considerable  way  down  the  Ohio.  The  Ohio  is  here  about 
)  yards  broad,  and  its  course  is  north-west.  The  afternoon  was 
iear,  warm,  anid  pleasant;  and  we  had  an  agreeable  sail,  during 
*liich  wc  passed  several  islands,  to  a  small  tavern  on  the  riglit 


i:,'m 


fit! 


556  TRAVELS  OK     " 

hand,  12  miles  from  Pittsburg,  where  we  stopped  for  the  niplif. 
The  lands  thus  far  are,  to  une  a  common  expression  here,  all  taken 
up,  and  the  price  is  about  10  or  12  dollars  per  acre.  The  scenery 
is  rich,  and  the  banks  of  the  river  abound  with  coal  and  freestone. 
The  principal  timber  is  walnut,  cherry,  hickory,  and  sycamore. 

August  2*th.  This  morning  we  started  at  6  o'clock.  The  fog 
was  so  thick  on  the  river  thnt  we  could  hardly  see  10  yards  round 
us.  Thfc  thermometer  stoocl  at  54**  in  the  air,  and  74®  in  the  water. 
We  engaged  a  young  man  to  take  us  over  a  bar,  here  called  a  rip- 
ple, a  little  way  below,  and  taking  the  oars,  he  carried  us  alon«T  verr 
swiftly.  As  our  appetites  iV^re  a  little  whetted  by  the  water  air,ve 
looked  to  our  provisions,  and  behold,  bur  large  ham  was  gone! 
We  accused  the  dogs  ;  but  the  young  man  bore  testimony  to  their 
honesty,  and  told  us  it  must  have  been  stolen  by  the  wolves.  It  was 
the  wolves  sure  enough.  We  discovered  the  tracks  of  Ihei.  feet  upon 
the  skiff,  and  some  of  their  strong  hair  was  found  upon  the  box, 
which  we  thence  calletl  the  >wolf-box ,-  and  bur  Frenchman  consoled 
himself  for  the  loss  of  oiir  ham  by  cursing  and  damning  the  wolves, 

Th6  day  cleared  up  about  8  o'clock,  when  we  stopped  for  break- 
fast at  the  plantation  of  a  Mi*.  McDonald,  who  told  us  his  father 
was  a  Scotsman.  I  le  had  a  good  plantation,  oh  a  fine  bottom ;  but 
it  had  been  ktely  overflowed  by  the  rivfer,  which  swept  away  the 
fences,  and  otherwise  greatly  injured  the  property. 

Aftfer  breakfast  we  were  overtaken  by  ah  Indian  canoe,  and  we 
entered  into  conversation  with  the  natives,  who  we  found  could 
talk  the  English  language  quite  fluently.  We  learned  that  they 
were  from  the  neighbourhood  of  Utica,  in  the  state  of  New  York, 
where  the  Indians  are  considerably  improved  in  agriculture,  and 
they  were  urnler  the  direction  of  a  society  of  qirakers,  on  a  mission 
to  White  Water  river,  in  the  Indiana  territoiy,  to  teach  that  sci- 
ence to  an  Indian  tribe  settled  there.  We  sailed  together  to  Bea- 
ver, 30  miles  below  Pittsburg,  wi'iere  we  stojiped  a  short  time,  and 
en/'aged  one  of  them  to  pull  our  b<iat. 

Beaver  is  situatetl  on  the  north  side  of  the  Ohio  river,  a  little 
below  Beaver  creek,  and  is  on  a  high  stony  plain ;  but  it  docs  not 
appear  to  be  thriving.  It  has  about  30  houses,  a  jail,  post-office, 
and  three  or  four  taverns  and  stores.  Beaver  creek  is  60  y«rd« 
wide  at  its  mouth,  and  is  navigabfc  by  small  vessels  about  50  miles 
into  the  interior  of  the  country.  An  iron  furnace,  and  a  numbtr 
of  grist  And  saw-mills  have  been  erected  on  this  creek. 


tHI   OHIO    BIVER.  337 

On  setting  out,  our  Indian,  who  had  been  accustomed  to  the  pad- 
dle only,  made  a  sad  plashing  and  floundering  in  the  water  with 
the  oars;  but  it  was  not  long  before  he  got  into  the  knack  of  it, 
and  pulled  away  pretty  well.  We  had  but  a  poor  bargain  of  him, 
however,  and  soon  discovered  that  he  was,  to  use  a  Scots  phrase,  *'  u 
dnnitby  neighbour,"  and  he  did  like  the  phisky,  as  he  termed  it, 
most  dearly.  We  proceeded  to  Georgetown,  12  miles  from  Beaver, 
where  we  stopped  for  the  night. 

Georgetown  is  situated  on  an  eminence,  on  the  left  bank  of  tlio 
river,  and  consists  of  only  a  few  dwelling-houses,  two  stores*,  and  u 
poit-office.     There  is  an  air-i^ring  in  the  river  near  this  place.      T 

August  25th.  We  started  from  Georgetown  at  6  o'clock ;  the 
morning  was  foggy ;  the  thermometer  stood  tASd''.  A  little  below 
Georgetown  we  passed  the  Pennsylvania  state-line,  and  we  now  sail« 
cd  between  the  states  of  Ohio  and  Virginia.  Fourteen  miles  be- 
low Georgetown  we  passed  Yellow  creek,  in  the  state  of  Ohio,  on 
which  we  wera  told  there  was  a  thriving  settlement  of  emigrantH 
from  Scotland ;  and  a  little  beyond  the  creek,  amidst  elegant  sce- 
neiy,  on  the  river's  bank,  we  drew  up  our  boat  under  a  delightful 
ihady  grove,  and  had  dinner.  We  had  at  Georgetown  purcha<^e^l 
acoui^e  of  broiled  chickens,  for  twelve  and  a  half  cents,  on  part  of 
which  wc  breakfasted  without  stopping  the  Iwat,  and  the  remainder 
now  constituted  our  dinner. — Cheap  travelling.  The  scenery  con- 
tinued elegant  all  the  way  to  Steubenville,  30  miles  from  George- 
town, which  we  reached  near  dark.     ^ '  it\ 

Steubenville  is  situated  on  an  elevated  second  bank  of  the  river. 
It  was  laid  out  in  1798,  and  consists  now  of  nearly  200  dwelling- 
houses,  and  8S0  inhabitants.  The  buildings  are  hamlsonie  and  com- 
modious, a  great  many  of  them  being  of  brick.  The  public  build- 
ings are  a  court-liouse,  jail,  church,  a  bunk,  a  land-office,  post-office, 
end  printing-office.  There  are  seven  taverns,  and  12  stores,  and 
the  town  is  increasing,  but  not  rapidly.  'sn.jj^fc:  ► 

As  it  was  Sunday  evening  when  we  landed,  and  as  we  started  befora 
the  land-office  was  open,  1  had  not  an  opportunity  of  making  a  par- 
ticular inquiry  regarding  Steubenville  District.  The  few  facts  which 
cune  to  my  knowledge  I  shall  here  communicate.  It  extends  from 
the  Connecticut  reservation  on  the  north  to  the  Marietta  district  on 
the  south,  a  distance  of  72  miles ;  and  its  extreme  breadth  at  Uie 
Vorth  cud  is  60  miles,  at  the  south  end  42.     Its  area  is  about  2900 


%%' 


339 


THAVELS   Oil 


s<]uare  milrs ;  and  embraces  nearly  four  counties,  containinfr  about 
42^0  inhabitants,  all  settled  here  within  20  years. 

The  Ohio,  river  washes  the  eastern  part  of  the  district  upwards  of 
60  miles,  and  in  all  thi»  distance,  except  in  the  bottoms,  the  country 
on  the  margin  of  the  river  is  rather  rough  ;  but  further  back  there 
is  much  good  land,  and  the  settlements  on  it  are  numerous  and  vm 
important;    it  is  remarkably  well  watered,  there  being  upwards  of 
20  streams  that  run  into  the  Ohio,  besides  those  that  run  into  the 
Muskingum  and.Lake  Erie ;  and  tlie  head  waters  of  all  these  being 
situated  in  the  district,  shows  that  it  must  be  an  elevated  country. 
These  rivers  are  mostly  fed  by  springs,  and  they  drive  a  great  quan- 
tity of  machinery.  The  timber  is  oak,  hickory,  walnut,  maple,  cher- 
ry, locust,  &c.    The  climate  is  temperate  and  healthy ;  and  judg- 
ing from  the  countenances  ofthe/air  at  Steubenville,  I  should  sup- 
pose entirely  colonial  to  human  Ufe.    There  are  numerous  town» 
erected  in  thi»  district,  and  the  buildings  keep  pace  with  the  pros- 
perity of  the  people,  which  is  increasing  most  rapidly.    Agricultur- 
ists and  mechanics  are,  of  course,  the  principal  inhabitants;  they 
are  all  operative  people,  and  have  made  "  the  wilderness  to  blossom 
as  the  rose."     The  roads,  bridges,  and  other  improvements  all  bear 
testimony  to  the  industry  of  the  inhabitants,  who  are  mostly  from 
the  New  England  states,  than  whom  a  more  Industrie r-»  people  were 
never,  and  I  question  whether  any  other  were  ever  so  well  adapted 
to  the  settlement  of  a  new  country. 

The  United  States'  hwd&  are  sold  at  two  dollars  per  acre^  and  a 
great  portion  pf  them  stilt  remains  undisposed  of  in  this  district; 
but  not  of  the  best  quaUty.  What  i»  in  private  hands  may  be  reck- 
oned worth  from  10  to  12  dollars  on  the  bottoms  of  the  Ohio,  and 
from  three  to  five  dollars  in  the  mterior  of  the  country.  Fannen 
and  mechanics  are  best  adapted  to  the  country,  and  every  sort  of 
manufactures  that  constitute  the  necessaries  of  life  are  in  denand, 
for  which  the  materials  are  all  on  the  spot  in  abundance,  except 
.  cotton  r  and  it  is  brought  up  the  river  to  Steubenville,  at  about  four  j 
cents  per  pound.  Upon  the  whole,  this  is  a  flourishing  district« 
<  «uid  will>  in  all  probability,  douUe  its  population  in  10  years. 


:-*tij 


•  »    _  .r 


TRB  OHIO   RIVBR. 


M 


i^". 


r  "       CHAPTER  LXX. 


Wheelings — Long  Reach^ — T/IaHetta.  >  >  ^  •'    < 

August 26th,  we  left  SteuljenviUe  about  8  o'clock;  the  mora* 
ing  was  foggy ;  the  temperature  of  the  atmosphere  60*.  We  pro* 
ceeded  down  the  river  three  miles,  when,  Mr.  Ward  having  some 
inquiries  to  make,  we  stopped  at  a  very  handfiome  plantation,  situ- 
ated OH  the  Ohio  side,  on  an  extensive  bottom,  which  raised  corn, 
oats,  l)arley,  hemp,  wheat,  and  rye,  in  great  abundance ;  and  there 
was  a  peach  orchard  literally  loaded  with  fruit.  "  There  was  e- 
nougli,  and,  to  spare,"  here,  of  both  clingstones  and  Jiee-stoncs^ 
and  having  ate  heartily,  we  took  a  supply  in  our  boat.  On  moving 
off  from  the  bank  an  Irishman  of  the  name  of  Hanlon  requested  W9 
would  carry  him  about  two  miles,  and  land  him  on  the  other  side 
of  the  river,  which  we  agreed  to,  and  he  gave  us  a  good  deal  of  in- 
formation regarding  that  part  of  the  country.  He  told  us  tliat  he 
was  a  boat-builder,  and  had  removed  from  Philadelphia  to  this 
country,  where  he  had  resided  five  years.  He  liked  this  country 
much  better  than  Philadelphia,  principally  on  account  of  its  tem- 
perate climate,  and  the  ease  with  which  he  could  procure  a  liveli- 
hood. The  summers  here  are  much  cooler,  and  the  winters  much 
warmer  than  to  the  eastward.  He  could  make  one  dollar  50  cents 
per  day,  and  the  expense  of  boarding  was  only  one  doliar  50  cents 
per  week. 

Six  miles  from  Steubenville  we  passed  Charleston,  a  neat  little 
place,  situated  on  the  Virginia  side,  on  a  high  bank.  We  did  not 
land  here ;  but  we  were  told  it  was  an  excellent  flour  market,  which 
commodity  sells  at  present  at  four  dollars  per  barrel.  We  dined 
by  the  way  on  broiled  chickens,  which  we  purchased  at  Steuben- 
ville, for  six  and  a  quarter  cents  each ;  and  after  a  very  agreeable 
ttil  we  reached  Wheeling,  23  miles  from  Steubenville,  at  iivo 
o'clock  in  the  evening.  •^:..■. 

On  landing  here,  we  found  the  Indian  canoe  had  got  l>eforc  us, 
and  our  rower  went  to  join  his  companions.  The  master  of  the 
boat  came  and  informed  us,  that  his  man  was  not  to  pull  any  more 
for  us,  because  we  had  not  used  him  well.  We  were  surprised, 
and  inquired  what  was  the  matter.  It  was  simply  this — we  had 
not  glveu  liim  vohhkey  enough.     We  had  noticed  that  he  frequently 


■A, 

.1  .■■■■■'{ 

--  <■  -<  J  "  " 


840  TKAVITLS  ON 

stopped,  and  called  out  *'  I  tire,  I  tire,"  which  we  thought  im. 
possible,  as  he  was  a  very  stout  fellow,  and  required  an  e^^planation. 
"  O,  rae  no  tire,"  says  he,  "  what  you  call  tire ;  when  I  say  /  /jVr, 
then  that  is,  I  want  phisket/."  A  spiritual  explanation,  faith !  Vit 
increased  his  libation,  but  hot  to  an  extent,  it  appeared,  to  meet 
his  magnificent  ideas,  dnd  his  red  worship  was  quite  dissatisfied 
that  we  poured  it  out  for  him  in  a  glass;  he  must  have  the  whole 
tsottle,  forsooth,  to  his  head  I  This  however  we  would  not  indulge 
him  in.  The  truth  is,  we  had  laid  it  down  as  a  rule  to  be  very 
circumspect  in  giving  him  whiskey,  and,  though  we  liad  given  hini 
a  great  quantity  in  all,  #e  gave  him  but  a  moderate  dose  at  a  time, 
and  it  was  always  diluted  with  water.  The  Indian  did  not  half 
Hke  this,  and  made  the  complaint  to  his  captain  already  noticed. 
As  we  found  him  to  be  useful,  we  were  unwilling  to  part  with  him 
for  a  trifle,  so,  after  paying  his  wages,  we  promised  to  give  him 
the  bottle  to  his  head  next  day,  every  time  he  cried  "  I  tire,"  and 
he  agreed  to  continue  with  us.  But  the  wages  never  found  the  way 
to  the  bottom  of  his  Indianship's pocket;  it  was  instantly  laid  out 
in  whiskey,  and  in  a  short  time  he  appeared  <m  the  beach  as  royal- 
ly drunk  as  ever  a  royal  dnke  among  thein  all,  inqtiiring  whether 
there  was  a  tavern  on  the  other  side  of  the  river ;  which  being  an- 
fewcred  in  the  affirmative,  he  jumped  into  the  water,  and  had  actih 
ally  reached  the  middle  of  it  before  he  was  brought  back. 

Wheeling  is  situated  on  a  high  bank,  on  the  Virginia  side,  and 
has  nothing  pre}>08sc8sing  in  its  appearance.  Some  ponds  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  town  had  polluted  the  air,  and  a  great  many 
of  the  inhabitants  had  been  seized  with  a  bilious  fever,  and  fever 
and  ague ;  being  the  first  sickness  I  had  heard  of  since  1  passed 
the  banks  of  the  Susquehanna.  n'v  *  '/r  ;  y  -  ^t  y%     rv 

•  The  improvements  do  not  seem  to  keep  pace  on  the  Virginia 
side,  with  those  in  the  state  of  Ohio,  and  it  is  very  questionable 
whether  this  will  ever  be  a  place  of  much  consequence,  although 
the  situation  appears  favourable,  the  great  road  to  the  western 
country  passing  through  it.  But  the  existence  of  slavery  is  a  damp- 
CT  upon  the  operations  of  the  white  people,  "  who  will  not  work  if 
ihcy  have  slaves  to  work  for  them,"  and,  idleness  being  the  parent 
of  vice,  society  degenerates :  good  men  seek  out  a  situation  more 
congenial  to  the  practice  of  virtue,  apd  "  evil  men  and  scducew 
wax  worse  and  worse."        --     ..'''.•>-'/.»   ).m*t  hy.      .^  = 

As  we  stood  upon  the  beach  at  this  place,  a  large  bkiffdrcw  to» 


TIIE     OHIO   SIVER.  341 

wards  the  shores  in  which  the  proprietor  had  four  negro  childrei^ 
the  oldest  about  14|  the  youngest  about  4  years  of  age.     He  told 
us  that  he  had  left  his  home,  in  Maryland,  with  the  children,  and 
their  fiitber  and  mother,  in  order  to  carry  them  down  the  river,  to 
fi  market.     Finding  that  he  could  dispose  of  the  man  by  the  way 
to  advantage,  he  hod  sold  him.    The  night  after,    the  woman 
(vhom  he  reproacheil  as  an  unnatural  wretch  for  leaving  her  chil- 
dren) bad  ran  away,  and  he  was  obliged  to  go  on  with  the  children 
without  her !  The  three  youngest  had  not  reflection  enough  to  feel 
their  loss ;  they  jumped  out  of  the  boat,  and  played  about  upon 
the  sand  :  they  were  pretty  children.       But  the  eldest  sat  in  the 
boat,  the  emblem  of  heart-rending  grief  and  despair  ! — I  do  noC 
know  that  in  the  whole  course  of  my  life  I  ever  had  my  feelinga 
so  severely  tried.     I  hid  my  face  with  my  hands,  that  those  accus- 
tomed to  such  scenes  might  not  perceive  my  weakness,  and  with  a 
heavy  heart  walked  towards  the  inn,  praying  that  the  Merciful  Dis. 
poser  of  all  things  would,  in  the  coarse  of  his  providence,  provide 
for  these  poor  innocents,  who  are  doomed  to  slavery,  a  more  gentle 
master  than  the  hard-hearted  man  who  at  present  possessed  an  ab- 
iolute  dominion  over  them.- 
Tuesday,  the  27th  of  August.     We  started  at  8  o'clock.      TTie 
fflorniog  had  been  foggy,  but  was  now  clear.    The  thermometer 
sk)od  at  60**.    The  scenery  on  the  river  continues  nearly  the  same 
as  above ;  the  banks  are  high,  with  pretty  large  bottoms,  particu* 
lu-lyon  the  Virginia  side.      We  tried  to  accommodate  matters 
with  our  friend  the  Indian,  but  without  effect.     We  found  he  was 
"/^^"  every  quarter  of  an  hour,  and,  as  often  as  lie  put  the  bottle 
to  his  bead,  he  beckoned  to  his  companions  to  come  along  side,  and 
the"phiskey"  went  round  the  whdegang  before  we  could  get  it 
back  again.     Th^y  swallowed  half  ^.  gallon  of  it  in  the  course  of 
a  few  hours,  which  did  not  comport  with  our  economical  mode  of 
travelling,  at  all^  at  all ;  and  we  were  soon  deprived  of  our  In- 
dian's service  too ;   for  he  was  drunk  by  12  o'clock,  and  lay  like 
a  great  lump  of  mortal  pollution  in  the  boat;   so  we  were  glad  to 
I  ton  iiim  into  the  Indian  canoe  ^  like  a  bag  of  oats ;"  and,  taking 
what  the  sailors  call  "  spell  aiul  spell  about"  of  the  oars  ourselves^ 
I  ve  moved  on  with  considerable  celerity.     A  little  after  dark,  we 
reached  Dickasson's  tavern,  on  the  Virginia  side,  where  we  stopped 
I  all  night. 
^vc  we  wore  iufurffled  that  th«  country    is  but  little  cultivated 


^ 


'M 


3i3  '        TRAVBt*   OJI 

back  from  the  river,  and  those  who  lived  in  it  wished  to  be  on  the 
river  side,  to  have  the  benefit  of  a  market.  Land  on  the  river  n 
worth  from  8  to  10  dollars,  pa'.tly  improved;  but  some  sells  a) 
high  as  15  or  20  dollars.  Horses  are  worth  from  20  to  70  dollars. 
cows  from  lO  to  H  dollars.  Fish  are  plenty  in  the  river,  but  they 
do  not  catch  many,  having  hogs  and  poultry  in  great  plenty. 
There  are  no  musquetocs,  nor  other  troublesome  insects,  in  this 
part  of  the  country.  There  are  a  variety  of  medicinal  herbs  here, 
particularly  snake-root  and  ginseng.  The  Ohio  freezes  here  in 
winter;  but  there  is  very  little  sncw.      '**^  '^i-f  m^ ;  *v - 

August  28th,  at  6  o'clock,  we  left  Mr.  Dickasson's.  The  morn- 
ing was  foggy ;  the  thermometer  stood  at  64".  The  fog  soon  cleared 
away,  and  wc  observed  that  the  country  had  now  become  more 
level,  and  the  river  was  about  100  yards  broader  than  at  Pittsburg. 
Having  arrived  at  Long  Reach,  we  had  a  variety  of  cliarmin'* 
views,  and  about  the  middle  of  it  we  stopped  to  dinner,  on  the 
Virginia  side,  at  the  house  of  a  Mr.  Wells,  who  has  a  thriving 
plantation,  and  an  industrious  family.  Every  thing  indicated  good 
order  in  the  fields,  and,  in  the  house,  the  women  were  very  busj 
fabricating  cotton  cloth,  with  which  the  whole  family  ^werc  sub> 
stantially  clad.  By  a  copy  of  the  census,  which  hung  up  in  the 
room,  it  appeared  that  there  were  not  many  slaves  in  that  part  of 
Virginia.  The  white  population  in  the  country  amounted  to  7711; 
the  free  blacks  52 ;  slaves  422. 

Long  Reach  is  16^  miles  in  length.  The  river  is  nearly  straight 
the  whole  of  the  distance,  and  it  embodies  some  fine  island«.  No* 
thing  can  exceed  the  variety  and  beauty  of  the  views  on  the  river 
here.  The  water  is  as  clear  and  smooth  as  glass,  and  the  fields,  on  I 
each  side,  are  richly  clad  with  fine  timber,  which,  at  a  distance, 
appears  to  overshadow  tl»e  river,  and  produces  a  fine  effect.  On  I 
looking  up  or  down  the  stream,  the  eye  roams  along  the  pure  ex- 
panse of  water,  which  appears  gradually  to  contract  in  breadth,  and 
finally  to  be  lost  in  a  point  in  the  woods. 

As  we  proceeded  along  this  delightful  reach,  the  afternoon  be- 
came very  sultry,  and,  seeing  a  fine  peach-orchard  on  the  Ohio 
side,  we  pulled  i) wards  it,  to  get  into  the  shade  of  the  trees.  The 
people  Were  mashing  peaches,  preparing  to  make  peach-brandy,  and 
one  of  them,  learning  that  a  New  England  man  was  in  company, 
saluted  us  with  great  cordiality,  and  led  us  through  the  peach-or*  j 
chard,    and  such  an  orchard  I  never  saw  before  j    the  trees  vert  | 


tHl  OHIO   RIVER. 


345 


ich-or* 

vert 


flcQtatively  groaning  itnder  their  burden,  and  hundreds  of  busliels 
were  lying  on  the  ground.  It  was  no  sin  to  eat  peaches  here ;  and 
ihev  were  really  delicious. 

The  proprietor  told  us  he  was  from  Connecticut,  that  he  had 
been  a  considerable  time  settled  here,  and  could  maintain  his  fami- 
ly as  well  on  the  labour  of  one  day  in  the  week,  as  he  could  in 
Connecticut  in  all  the  six.     Those  who  were  industrious,  he  said* 
could  not  fail  to  lay  up  a  comfortable  stock  for  old  age,  and  for 
posterity.     He  informed  us,  that  for  the  few  fir%t  years  the  la- 
bour was  pretty  rugged  and  severe,  as  thoy  had  to  cut  down  the 
woods,  and  prepare  the  lands,  during  which  time  they  were  con- 
tented with  very  indifferent  lodgings ;    but  food  being  very  easily 
procured,  they  always  lived  well.     He  said,  when  he  came  hero 
first,  the  country  was  literally  a  wilderness,   and  we  now  saw  the 
progress  it  had  made  in  10  years.     The  first  settlers  were  selling 
their  improvements,  and  moving  off;    while  men  of  capital  were 
coining  in,  and  making  elegant  improvements,  and,  in  10  years 
more,  the  banks  of  the  river  here  would  be  beautiful.      The  Ohio 
side,  he  said,  was  thriving  remarkably ;  the  Virginia  side  not  near 
w  well ;  and  he  assigned  the  operation  of  slavery  as  the  principal 
reoion,  which  I  believe  to  be  correct.     He  mentioned  that  the  crop 
of  peaches  never  failed  on  the  Ohio,  and  the  trees  came  to  maturi- 
ty in  three  years.     Fifteen  bushek  make  6  gallons  of  brandy,  and 
they  sell  it  at  from  37i  lo  50  cents  per  gallon*    When  they  keep  it 
till  old,  they  get  a  little  more.     The  country  is  all  healthy  here,  and 
this  man's  family  looked  fully  as  rosy  as  the  young  folks  in  Con« 
necticut,  and  much  more  plump.     We  moved  down  the  river  7 
miles,  and  stopped  all  night  on  the  Ohio  side,  with  a  new  settler, 
from  Maryland.     The  lodgings  were  indifferent ;    but  they  were 
cheerfully  given,  and  the  landlord  would  make  no  charge. 

August  29th.  We  started  at  6  o'clock.  Tlie  morning  was  clear. 
The  temperature  was  68°.  Seven  miles  from  where  we  started, 
we  stopped  at  the  house  of  a  Mr.  Battelles,  from  New  England; 
and  here  we  observed  some  as  fme  cheeses  as  I  ever  saw  any 
where.  They  were  priepared  for  the  river  market,  and  sell  for 
sbout  12  to  15  cents  per  lb.  We  were  now  out  of  Long  Reach, 
isnd  drawing  towards  an  island,  called  the  Three  Brothers,  where 
I  was  preparing  my  mind  for  a  wonderful  scene,  first  noticed  by 
M  English  squire  of  the  name  of  Ashe,  who  travelled  in  these 
parts  sonic  five  or  six  years  ago,  and  met  with  marvellous  advan> 


L 


■■*  ■•■,'■  i 


344  TRAVFLi  ON     '^ 

tures.  Mr.  Asho  thus  describes  a  fall  in  the  rivdr :  **  I  arrhy 
«t  a  chain  of  islands  called  the  Brothers,  ran  down  the  right  band 
channel,  and,  on  reaching  the  foot  of  the  last  island^  pcrcciTed 
a  fall  in  the  river,  and  that  the  current  wore  through  it  in  the 
form  of  a  Z.  The  channel  ims  x^ery  little  broader  than  the  boat, 
confined  between  rocks,  the  slightest  touch  would  dash  her  to 
pieces.  I  ordered  the  man  to  keep  a  steady  stroke,  not  on  any 
account  to  abandon  the  oars,  or  to  be  alarmed  at  the  noise  of 
the  flood.  The  boat  instantly  took  the  first  suction  of  the  fall, 
increased  in  velocity  to  a  great  degree,  passed  tiirough  all  the 
mazes  of  the  channel,  till  she  came  to  the  last  descent,  when,  tum< 
1)|ing,  tost,  and  regardless  of  her  helm,  she  spun  round  and  round, 
and  at  length  shot  ahead  down  the  stream.  Astonishing  country  I 
Here  again  the  hills  subsided,  the  face  of  nature  smiled,  the  cur* 
rent  diffused,  and  the  river  became  a  perfect  calm.  On  looking 
back  to  contemplate  the  danger  I  had  Just  escaped,  I  could  but 
faintly  see  the  foaming  surge,  or  hear  the  horrid  clamour.  /  nem 
experienced  a  more  evettt/id  moment  than  in  the  passage  of  that 
FALL  !**  The  reader,  who  has  any  faith  in  Mr.  Ashe's  testimony, 
will  easily  judge  of  my  anxiety  in  approaching  this  /all ,-  but 
what  was  my  surprize,  when  I  came  to  the  foot  of  the  last  island, 
to  find  no  Jail  at  all !  The  river  was  nearly  half  a  mile  broad, 
without  any  other  interruption  than  that  mentioned  in  the  Pitts*  I 
burg  Navigator  :  <*  Just  below  the  third  Brother  is  a  small  wil- 
low island,  and  a  sand  bar ;  channel  near  the  right  shore."  And  I 
yet  this  is  magnified  by  Mr.  Ashe  into  a  most  tremendous  k 
to  be  passed  only  with  immense  difficulty  and  danger  !  Whiit  | 
powerful  imaginations  some  people  have  ! 

Nine  miles  below  this  we  passed  the  mouth  of  Little  Muskin- 
gum river,  and  four  miles  further  we  reached  Marietta^  at  which  I 
I  proposed  to  stop  some  days. 


■  in 


CHAPTER  LXXl. 


Marietta,-^OhiQ  Company s  purchase, — Marietta  District. 

.M. ARIETTA  is  very  handsomely  situated  at  the  confluence 
the  Muskingum  and  Ohio  rivers,  of  both  of  which  it  commands  tl 
fine  view.    ITiat  part  of  the  town  which  lies  next  the  Ohio  A 


THE   OHIO    RIVER. 


345 


elevated  above  the  bed  of  the  river  45  feet,  and  yet  such  is  the 
rite  of  the  water  in  some  seasons,  that  it  has  been  twice  flooded ; 
on  which  account  the  town  has  lately  increased  most  towards  the 
north-west,  on  a  second  bank,  and  a  considerable  number  of 
buildings  have  lately  been  erected  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Mus- 
kioguai,  which  is  some  feet  higher  than  the  lower  bank  on  tha 
east  side.  The  whole  is  handsomely  laid  out,  and  there  is  a  great- 
er portion  of  public  ground  for  walks  than  is  to  be  found  about 
most  of  the  towns  in  this  country. 

Marietta  was  laid  out  by  the  Ohio  Company,  about  21  years 
ago,  and  was  intended  as  the  metropolis  of  the  New  England 
western  settlements.  For  a  number  of  years  it  flourished  in  a  very 
eminent  degree,  increasing  in  commerce,  wealth,  and  splendour, 
and,  though  nearly  2000  miles  from  the  ocean,  ship-yards  wore 
erected,  and  ship-building  carried  on  with  spirit.  But,  of  late, 
its  commerce  and  ship-building  has  ceased,  and  it  is  now  a  dull 
place,  though  inhabited  by  a  gay,  lively  people,  mostly  natives 
of  Massachussetts.     Its  population  is  1 463. 

Marietta  contains  a  number  of  handsome  buildings  on  the  Maus- 
sachusetts  plan,  which  is  elegant,  light,  and  comfortable.  The 
principal  public  building  is  a  very  handsome  church.  A  bank 
was  established  in  1807,  and  a  steam-mill  was  building  when  I 
was  there,  which  may  be  the  foundation  for  a  new  system  of  poli- 
cy, to  be  afterwards  noticed,  that  may  be  highly  advantageous  to 
the  town.    There  are  several  taverns  and  stores.  *  »^^  .-* 

From  the  circumstance  of  the  town  being  settled  by  people  from 
the  commercial  state  of  Massachusetts,  the  spirit  of  foreign  com- 
merce seems  to  have  long  prevailed  among  them.  They  were  suc- 
cessful in  it  for  some  time,  and  notwithstanding  the  total  change 
of  circumstances,  they  yet  view  it  with  a  fond  partiality,  and  have 
not  thoroughly  seen  that  a  change  of  circumstances  has  called  for 
a  change  of  policy,  of  which  no  people  can  better  avail  themselves 
than  those  of  Marietta.  They  are  sober,  indnstrious,  intelligent, 
and  discreet;  and  their  country  abounds  with  materials  for  manu- 
facturing. Sheep  thrive  amazingly  well ;  cotton  they  can  procure 
from  Tennessee,  for  14  or  15  cents  per  pound.  Coal,  iron,  and 
limestone,  they  can  have  in  any  quantity,  and  every  other  mate- 
I  rial  may  be  had  on  as  good  terms  as  at  Pittsburg ;  while,  from 
the  great  quantities  of  fine  land  on  the  Muskingun,  and  the  rapi  J 
I  •ettlements  on  that  river,  I  think  provisions  must  continue  to  be  •♦eu 

44 


'■mi 


34(5 


THAV£LS   ON 


lower  than  nt  Pittbburj^.  Should  the  people  of  Murietta)  tllcr^ 
fore,  commence  the  manufacturing  system,  I  think  it  probable, 
that  it  will  become  ti  flourishing  place,  os  it  certainly  is  a  vcr\ 
l)cautiful,  and  n  very  pleasant  one ;  but  so  long  as  the  allow  ideai 
of  a  furein;n  commerce,  isohich  is  gone,  to  fetter  their  minds,  it  will 
hang  like  a  luilLstonc  round  their  necks,  and  prevent  all  improve- 
mentii.  Indeed  1  think  the  new  system  is  begun.  I  noticed  tiie 
steam-mill ;  the  original  design  of  it  was  to  prepare  flour  iind 
Indian  meal,  but  the  proprietors  propose  also  to  introduce  cotton 
and  wool  carding  and  spiiniing. 

Flour  was  four  dollars  per  barrel;  beef  four  cents  per  pound; 
and  other  provisions  were  upon  an  average,  about  10  per  cent. 
cheaper  than  at  Pittsburg. 

The  state  of  society  is  such  as  might  be  expected  in  a  colony 
from  Massachussets.  With  their  morals  and  manners  I  was  high* 
)y  pleased,  and  their  system  of  education,  being  foundeil  on  the 
same  plan  as  that  of  the  parent  state,   requires  no  illustration. 

The  country  round  is  very  handsome :  to  the  south-west  there 
arc  pretty  high  hills,  and  the  country  is  rugged  and*barreu ;  there 
are  also  some  hills  to  the  north,  but  of  no  great  elevation ;  there  is 
a  large  tract  of  bottom  land  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  above  the 
town ;  and  there  ore  some  very  rich  bottoms  on  the  Muskingum, 
but  they  are  of  no  great  extent ;  and  the  hills  a  long  way  up  that 
liver  are  very  rough,  but  may  in  process  of  time  be  converted 
into  excellent  sheep-farms. 

Mr.  Ward,  my  fellow-traveller,  was  very  attentive  in  showing; 
me  the  place,  and  in  introducing  me  to  a  number  of  the  principal 
inhabitants.  This  being  the  residence  of  the  governor  of  the  state, 
we  waited  on  him :  but  he  had  not  leisure  at  that  time  for  much 
conversation.  Mr.  Ward  afterwards  informed  me  by  letter,  that 
he  had  sent  me  a  card  of  invitation  to  spend  an  evening  with  hiii 
family,  but  I  was  gone  before  it  came  to  hand,  and  I  regretted 
that  1  lost  an  opportunity  of  receiving  tlie  valuable  information 
which  would  have  been  afforded  by  an  evening's  conversation 
with  a  gentleman  so  intelligent  and  so  well  informed  as  goverDor 
Meigs. 

♦  General  Putnam  is  one  of  the  earliest  settlers  here,   and  he 
lias  several  sons  and  relatives,    well  acquainted  with  the  state  ol 
Ohio ;  from  them  I  got  a  great  variety  of  information. 
.  We  went  to  see  the  Mounds ;  but  whether  it  was  that  my  miD<l 


THE   OHIO    RIVER.  ^47 

was  raised  to  too  high  a  pitch  of  expectation  from  the  accounts 
I  had  read  of  them,  or  that  it  was  pre-occupied  by  objects  of 
greater  importance  to  society,  I  know  not ;  but  so  it  was,  they 
(lid  not  come  up  to  my  expectations  at  all ;  I  could  hardly  view 
tlicni  even  as  curiosities ;  and  I  saw  no  reason  to  refer  their  ex- 
istence to  a  different  race,  or  a  different  state  of  civilization,  than 
what  is  to  be  found  among  the  Indian  tribes  at  present  in  North 
America.  In  all  probability,  a  numerous  tribe  had  been  settled 
on  the  Ohio,  who  had  been  at  war  with  some  other  tribe,  or 
tribes,  to  the  eastward.  Those  on  the  Ohio  would  naturally  look 
out  a  strong  hold  for  their  wives  and  little  ones,  and  appear  to 
have  availed  themselres,  naturally  enough,  of  a  position  where 
two  sides  were  protected  by  two  broad  deep  rivers.  Here  they 
would  construct  such  kind  of  works  as  seemed  to  be  best  calcu- 
lated for  protection  :  for  defence  in  case  of  surprise ;  ond  for  af- 
fording free  access  to  that  most  necessary  element — water. 

As  to  the  ingenuity  of  these  works,  which  have  been  pompously 
termed  "  surprising,"  I  really  see  nothing  in  it  to  lead  us  beyond 
the  present  race  of  Indians,  wh©  every  day  display  a  degi-ee  of  su- 
perior ingenuity,  though  in  a  different  form.  The  dexterous  use 
ofthe  bows  and  arrows  and  other  instruments  in  the  chase,  the 
fabrication  of  different  materials  for  domestic  use,  even  the  mock- 
assons  in  my  possession,  all  display  a  degree  of  ingenuity  equal  to 
what  is  to  be  seen  in  these  works.  Human  nature  in  nearly  the 
same  all  over  the  world.  Necessity  is  the  mother  of  invention, 
and  there  is  no  setting  bounds  to  the  ingenuity  of  any  class  of  men, 
when  circumstances  impel  them  to  exert  it. 

The  Muskingum  is  200  yards  broad  at  its  outlet,  and  is  navi- 
gable, with  nearly  as  much  ease  as  the  Ohio,  to  Zanesville,  and 
from  thence  by  various  craft  to  its  head.  Both  the  Ohio  and 
Muskingum  are  navigated  by  keel-boats  upwards,  almost  with  as 
I  great  facility  as  downwards,  a  circumstance  not  very  generally 
known,  but  of  infinite  importance  to  this  extensive  inland  country. 
I  saw  one  solitary  brig  building  on  the  banks  of  the  Muskingum. 

The  Ohio  Company's  purchase,  of  which  Marietta  is  the  capi- 

I  tal,  extends  along  the  Ohio  river,  including  its  windings,  about 

HO  miles,  but  in  a  direct  line  it  is  only  about  70.     It  extends  west 

I  from  Marietta  4<8,  and  north  about   12   miles,   the  wh^le   length 

from  south  to  north  being   80  miles.     The  area   is  about   1 700 

I  square  miles,  containing  about  a  million  of  acres. 


S48  TRAVELS  ON 

.  TUc  territory  is  laid  out  into  townships  of  »ijt  miles  iquai'c,  and 
in  each  there  is  a  reservation  of  G40  acres  of  land  for  a  church, 
and  as  much  fur  n  kcIu)o1  ;  and  twi>  townships{iicar  the  centre  of  the 
puixhasc,  on  t  lockhocking  river,  have  been  reserved  tor  u  cullcffe. 
On  this  rcitervc  Athens  is  now  built. 

This  tract  wns  purchased  from  the  United  States  for  one  dollar 
an  acre,  and  the  company  were  principally  guided  in  their  cboice 
of  their  situation,  by  the  commercial  advantages  which  appeared 
to  result  from  havuig  the  command  of  several  fine  rivers,  particu- 
larly the  Ohio  and  Mubkuigum ;  without  perhaps  duly  reilectini', 
that  agriculture  takes  the  precedence  of  commerce.  Before  there 
can  be  trade  there  must  be  something  to  trade  in.  Certain  it  it 
they  fixed  upon  one  of  the  worst  situations  in  the  state  of  Ohio, 
and,  notwithstanding  the  cheapness  of  the  purchase,  most  of  the 
proprietors  have  found  it  a  losing  concern.  There  are  some  fine 
bottoms  on  the  Ohio,  and  on  some  of  the  other  rivers,  particular* 
ly  the  Uockhocking,  but  by  far  the  greater  part  is  rough  and 
hilly  ;  although  I  think  it  will  answer  remarkably  well  for  vbecp* 
grazing,  to  which,  in  process  of  time,  it  will  probably  be  applied, 
The  land  stands  rated  in  the  state  books  nearly  thus  :  of  100 parts 
there  is  one  first  rate ;  SO  second  rate ;  and  69  third  rote  land* 
The  population  is  increasing,  but  not  nearly  in  an  equal  degree 
to  other  parts  of  the  state.  The  inhabitants  amount  at  present  to 
about  1 2,000.  The  climate  is  very  agreeable,  and  is  quite  hcnllby. 
Xhc  whole  district  abounds  with  finely  varieg^ed  scenery. 

Marietta  District,  of  which  the  United  States  lantl-office  u  at 
Marietta,  is  situated  between  the  Steubenville  district  and  the 
Ohio  Company's  purchase.  It  extends  into  the  interior  of  the 
country  about  30  miles,  and  contains  about  860  square  miles. 
The  Ohio  washes  it  on  the  south-east  about  60  miles.  The  soil 
here  is  much  superior  to  (he  Ohio  Company's  lands :  of  100  parts, 
one  is  first  rate ;  77  second  rate;  and  22  third  rate.  It  is  hand- 
somely watered,  the  principal  river  being  the  Little  Muskiogum, 
and  though  it  is  only  about  half  as  large  as  (he  company's  pur- 
chase, it  contains  nearly  as  many  inhabitants,  and  is  more  likely 
to  increase.  The  price  of  the  United  States*  lands  is  two  dollars 
per  acre.  The  other  lands  vary  according  to  circumstances,  some 
being  as  low  as  one  dollar,  and  some  as  high  as  20  dollar*  per 
acre.  The  average  price  of  middling  land  is  about  twp  dollars. 
The  Ohio  Company's  purchase  is  very  various  in  pf  ice.    General- 


TUB  OHIO  BIVEH.'  S%t/ 

\j  (peaking,  the  individual*  who  bold  it  are  wiHing  to  Aell  at 
moderate  prices,  and  very  advantageous  bargains  may  be  iiHade  bjr 
those  who  go  there  to  reside.  To  the  npn-resident  fipecu.a(ort  ^ 
b^idi  out  no  inducement. 


Ut 


CHAPTER  LXXIL 


BUmnerhasset*s  Island^ — Kanhateai/  River. ~  Galliopoli% 

During  our  stay  at  Marietta,  the  water  rose  a  Utile,  and  a 
number  of  boats  canie  dowrr  the  river.  Two  young  gentlemen  in 
a  sklfi^  one  of  them  a  Mr.  Murray,  from  New  York,  the  otlier 
from  Baltimore,  arrived  at  the  inn  where  we  lodged ;  but  they 
only  stopped  a  few  minutes,  and  proceeded  down  the  river.  Five 
or  six  keel-boats,  laden  with  goods,  stopped  at  the  wxne  time,  and 
we  prepared  to  go  along  with  them.  I  now  parted  with  my  agreed- 
able  friend  Mr.  Ward,  and  the  Frenchman  and  I  proceeded  on 
our  journey  together.  A  Mr.  Armstrong,  whom  1  became  ac* 
quaintcd  with  at  Pittsburg,  was  along  with  the  boats,  and  wo 
found  him  very  discreet.  As  we  were  starting  from  the  wharf,  a 
young  man  from  the  keel -boats  told  us  he  was  disengaged,  and  ofo 
fered  his  services  to  row  our  skifT.  We  engaged  him,  but  had 
only  proceeded  a  little  way,  when  the  captain  of  one  of  the  keeU 
boats  roared  out  to  him,  with  a  volley  of  oaths  and  irapreciitions, 
to  come  and  take  care  of  his  father.  The  young  man  asserted  ha 
hadnotliing  to  dp  with  them,  and,  to  prevent  any  mischief,  I 
desired  him  to  puU  away  to  Mr.  Armstong's  boat,  where  I  wuuU\ 
procure  him  protection  till  we  got  the  matter  inquired  into.  But 
we  had  not  proceeded  fur  when  the  men  from  the  boat  pursued 
and  overtook  us ;  seized  hold  of  the  young  man,  neck  and  heels  t 
threw  hitn  into  their  boat,  and  carried  him  off.  On  reaching  Mr. 
Armstrong,  I  learned  that  this  wa9  a  bad  boy^  who  wanted  to 
desert  his  father ;  and  he  recommended  to  us  a  young  lad,  named 
Peter,  on  board  their  boat,  whom  we  ioupd  to  answer  our  purpose 
remarkably  welL  ,.,^  «.r.^;. 

At  night  we  stopped  at  a  tavern,  six  miles  below  Marietta,  oi^ 
the  Ohio  side.  This  was  a  pretty  situation,  but  I  did  not  like 
the  looks  of  our  landlord  ;  and  the  boats'  crews  having  stopped 
here^  tlicy  made  a  terrible  romptis,  drinking  metheglin,  and  swe<Mr^ 


i: 


Mf 

SUffilfi 

ir^.n^v|i  fftMwff 

jl;3^^P' 

■NiPffi 

H|P|IR| 

■j  yp^flii'Bff 

Piilvffi 

**' 


350 


TRAVELS   ON 


ing  unmeaning  oaths.  However,  they  took  to  their  boats  Ly  n 
oVlock,  and  we  slept  pretty  comfortably  till  morning  ;  our  boat- 
man having  been  left  in  the  skiff  to  take  charge  of  the  hig^'age. 

September  2d.  We  started  at  6  o'clock  ;  the  morning  was  h<t. 
gy;  the  thermometer  stood  at  68".  About  9  o'clock  we  reached 
Blannerhasset's  Island,  18  miles  below  Marietta,  where  1  went  on 
shore  to  view  the  premises.  The  soil  was  fertile,  and  it  had  been 
a  beautiful  place ;  but  its  appearance  now  was  that  of  the  "  dcsertd 
village."  I  saw  the  remains  of  walks,  and  arbours,  and  hedge- 
rows, and  shrubberies ;  but  the  house  was  razed  to  the  foundations;, 
It  had  been  accidentally  burned  down,  the  preceding  montli  of 
March.  The  principal  crop  on  the  island  was  hemp,  and  in  \k 
course  of  my  walk  I  discovered  an  old  Irishman  spinning  rope-yarn. 
I  could  not  view  this  scene  without  considerable  anguish  of  mind, 
and  some  important  reflections  on  the  danger  of  indulging  vicious 
propensities,  especially  when  these  have  for  their  object  the  mere 
gratification  of  personal  vanity  or  aggrandizement. 

There  are  various  accounts  of  Mr.  Blannerhasset,  and  of  his  con- 
nexion with  Aaron  Burr.  It  is  of  Kttle  importance  now  to  inquire 
into  their  authenticity ;  but  we  may  draw  some  important  lessons 
from  the  melancholy  result  to  the  parties.  Blannerhasset  is  said  to 
have  been  most  comfortably  situated  at  this  handsome  place,  and 
his  wife  is  described  as  beautiful.  In  an  evil  hour  he  seems  to  have 
admitted  Mr.  Burr  to  his  counsels,  who  had  sufficient  art  to  entrap 
him  to  co-operate  with  him  in  his  ambitious  pursuits.  He  endorsed 
bills  for  him  to  a  greater  extent  than  he  was  able  to  pay ;  and  the 
consequence  was  an  alienation  of  his  beautiful  place  to  strangers,— 
he  being  obliged  to  seek  a  support  to  his  family  in  a  far  distant,  and 
probably  ungenial  country ;  and  his  peace  of  mind  destroyed— per- 
haps for  ever!        •  ' 

From  a  review  of  the  whole  of  Mr.  Burr's  transactions  we  may 
draw  a  most  important  inference  as  to  the  stability  of  the  govern- 
ment in  this  country.  It  is  a  government  by  the  people,  in  which 
all  have  an  equal  interest,  and  the  great  mass  of  virtuous  citizens 
must  necessarily  give  it  their  support ;  because  no  change  can  take 
place,  except  for  the  worse  to  them.  A  few  disappointed  ambitious 
men  may  create  a  temporary  and  local  disturbance ;  but  they  can- 
not work  in  secret — tiieir  deeds  mukt  Come  to  ligl^t — and  when  they 
do,  they  will  become  the  scorn  of  good  men — the  outcasts  of  society; 
and  the  government  of  the  country  will  only  receive  strength  from 


TttB   OHIO   RIVBR.  351 

llic  futile  attempts  to  overturn  it.  A  government  by  the  people  is 
like  a  beautiful  pyramid  with  a  substantial  base — it  cannot  be  over- 
turned; but  a  d^iwtic  government,  or  a  government  by  a  small 
portion  of  the  people  only,  is  like  a  pyramid  inverted.  Extraordi- 
nary  vigour  may  suj)port  it  for  a  time ;  but  when  this  vigour  be- 
comes corrupt,  or  takes  a  wrong  direction,  the  whole  fabric  will  fall 
to  the  ground,  and  crush  its  supporters  in  its  ruins. 

There  is  a  beautiful  situation  nearly  opposite  to  Blannerhasset's 
Island,  called  Bellepre,  and  the  scenery  continues  very  elegant  along 
the  river.  '  The  settlements  are  prdlty  thick  on  the  Ohio  side ;  but 
the  Virginia  side  is  mostly  unsettled.  We  passed  the  Little  and  Big 
Hockhocking  rivers,  and  several  islands  in  tiie  Ohio,  and  at  night 
8to))|ied  at  the  house  of  a  Mr.  Symes,  where  we  had  excellent  ac- 
commodations for  a  very  moderate  charge;  and  I  procured  a  great 
deal  of  information  regarding  that  part  of  the  country.  , 

September  3d.  We  started  at  6  o'clock ;  the  inorning  was  cloudy, 
the  temperature  oftheair  was  70°,  of  the  water  75°.     The  scenery 
is  nearly  similar  to  that  before  described,  and  the  river  about  700 
vards  broad.     We  had  now  got  well  accustomed  to  travelling  by 
water,  and  we  found  it  easy  and  agi-eeable.     Our  boatman,  Peter, 
answered  our  purpose  remarkably  well,  and  could  row  about  three 
miles  an  hour.     The  water  was  low,  and  we  found  the  cuiTent  as- 
sited  us  very  little.     In  order  to  relieve  the  boatman,  and  to  giva 
ourselves  excercise,  we  frequently  took  a  turn  at  the  oars,  and  wa 
I  generally  made  from  30  to  36  miles  a  day.     We  had  found  by  tliis 
time  that  the  settlers  on  the  Ohio  side  were  by  far  in  the  most  com* 
Ifortable  circumstances;    and  we  never  failed  in  an  application  for 
lodging  or  victuals  on  that  side.     On  the  Virginia  side  we  had  of 
late  made  frequent  attempts ;    but  were  always  u^isuccessful.      On 
I  stopping  there  we  generally  found  a  negro,  who  could  give  us  no 
answer,  or  a  poor-looking  object  in  the  shape  of  a  woman,   who, 
"  moping  and  melancholy,"  would  say  "  we  hwve  no  way."    I  never 
saw  the  bad  effects  of  slavery  more  visible  than  in  this  contrast* 
On  the  Virginia  side  thej-  seemed  generally  to  trust  to  the  exertion:* 
olthe  negroes,  and  we  found  them,  as  might  be  expcctetl,  *'  miser- 
able aiid  wretched,  and  poor,  and  almost  naked." — On  the  Ohio 
Mo  they  trusted  to  the  blessing  of  God  and  to  their  own  exertions; 
land  "God  helps  them  that  help  themselves,"  as  poor  Richard  says, 
ji'i  his  almanack.      We  found  them  increasing  in  wealth,  poj)uIa- 
|tion,  and  domestic  comfort ;  and  we  resolved  hereafter  to  apply  ou 


S52 


TRAVBLS   ON 


the  right  bank  only  for  accommodation,  where  the  rcMUfer  will  hence. 
forth  find  us,  unless  it  is  otherwise  escpressed.  Our  general  rule 
was  to  look  out  for  a  settlement  at  sun-set,  and  stop  at  the  first  w& 
came  to  thereafter :  and  it  was  hardly  ever  necessary  to  make  a 
second  call.  As  soon  as  we  had  engagetl  lodgings  we  ordered  sup. 
per,  and  along  with  it  two  chickens  to  be  cooked  for  next  day's  fare. 
The  boatman  got  supper  along  with  us,  and  then  returned  to  the 
skiff,  where  he  slept  all  night.  The  f  renchman,  who  I  before  no. 
ticed,  was  a  httmoursoiite  character,  went  to  bed  imiri&diately  after 
supper,  and  often  scolded  me  for  not  following  his  example ;  but 
ImvinsT  to  write  my  notes,  it  was  generally  11  or  12  o'clock  before 
I  could  retire  to  rest.  I  always  found  the  people  with  whom  we 
stopped  very  obliging,  and  ready  to  answer  all  my  inciuiries ;  so 
that  it  gave  mo  real  pleasure  to  travel  on  this  delightful  river,  and 
to  converse  with  the  friendly  settlers  on  its  banks.  Our  travelling 
too  was  very  cheap,  for  the  whole  did  not  amount  to  more  than  a 
dollar  a  day,  boatman's  hire  included.  In  the  morning,  when  ffc 
started,  we  carried  our  broiled  chickens,  with  some  bread,  cheese, 
and  milk,  in  the  skiff;  on  which  we  made  very  comfortable  repasts. 
without  stopping. 

Having  passed  a  remarkable  cavern  in  a  rock  called  the  Devil's 
hole,  and  Shade  river,  we  reached  a  pretty  strong  current  called  a 
ripple,  on  which  we  found  a  floating-mill  at  work.  Buffcntin's  Is- 
land lay  on  the  opposite  side,  and  after  passing  it  we  came  up  with 
an  Irishman  and  his  wife,  travelling  by  a  skiff  for  Kentucky.  They 
Iiad  stopped  for  breakfast.  The  woman  had  kindled  a  fire  on  the 
baach  to  cook  some  e^^gs,  and  the  man  had  gone  up  to  a  settlement, 
to  f  et  some  milk.  Our  Frenchman  went  on  the  same  c^rrantl ;  but 
soon  returned  with  the  empty  pitcher  in  his  hand,  saying  that  the 
wife  would  not  sell  him  any,  and  he  was  as  well  pleased,  for  she  was 
li  dirty  looking  hussy.  At  tiiis  time  the  keel-boats  joined  us,  and 
one  of  the  boatmen  said  that  the  house  was  Buffentin's,  and  they 
were  the  most  indiscreet  dirty  people  in  all  the  country.  "  Well," 
said  our  Frenchman,  "we  have  always  been  -wcW  treat  hitherto,  and 
though  we  have  got  a  little  rub  from  the  dirty  Buffcntins,  we  mm 
just  put  up  with  it."  On  hearing  this  the  woman-  made  her  appear- 
antp  from  behind  the  trees,  where  she  had  been  listening,  vvh  j,  put- 
ting her  hands  to  her  sides,  exclaimed  :  "  And  what  have  you  got 
to  say  to  the  BiiITentins  ?"  "  Why,  madam,"  replied  the  Frenchman, 
"  all  that  I  have  got  to  say  is  that  they  are  a  parcel  of  dirty  ho;,'?, 


THB  OHIO   RIVER.  353 

and  beneath  our  notice."  It  is  impossible  to  describe  the  rage  that 
ai)|)eared  in  tlie  wome.n's  countenance  on  this  occasion ;  and  I  be- 
lieve if  the  Frenchman  had  been  within  the  reach  of  her  talons,  she 


would  have  *«/**■'}  v>'f>T  «'•  *t--i>    j    '.vcs 

"  Flyped  the  skin  o'  liis  checks  oat  owrc  his  chin ; 


Of 


but  we  were  in  our  boat  in  tho  river,  and  the  Frenchman  lay  on  his 
oars,  and  enjoyed  her  half-frantic  gestures,  while  she  unprofitably 
soont  her  rage  among  the  trees.  :  • 

There  appears  to  be  certain  periods  when  mankind  take  a  per- 
verse pleasure  in  tormenting  each  other.  The  poor  woman's  pas- 
jions  were  fired  at  the  circumstance  of  being  called  dirty ;  a  plain 
proof  that  it  was  not  altogether  congenial  to  her  disposition :  yet 
our  Frenchman,  so  far  from  feeling  any  <:ompunction,  tormented 
her  with  a  string  of  allusions,  all  of  which  had  a  tendency  to  wind 
her  passions  to  the  highest  pitch  ;  but  he  could  do  it  with  impunity. 
We  were  at  a  respectful  distance,  moviug  slowly  down  the  river ; 
there  was  no  danger  of  broken  bones :  but  the  Billingsgate  ccntinu. 
ed  while  we  were  within  hearing,  to  the  great  amusement  of  the 
crews  of  the  adjoining  boats.  ,   .<»  .>.   '  .;   i 

A  short  while  after  leaving  our  enraged  fair  one,  we  were  threaten- 
ed with  a  shower  of  rain,  and  we  took  slu  'ter  in  a  .small  log  cabin, 
where  the  landlord  told  us  he  was  a  native  of  Ireland,  and  had  come 
1  out  to  fight  for  America  during  the  war.  He  was  an  excellent  rau- 
bician,  and  amused  us  with  some  tunes  on  the  violin.  The  afte?- 
noon  cleared  up,  we  got  under  weigh,  and  made  very  good  pro- 
gress to  Letart's  falls,  which  we  passed  before  dark,  and  stopped  at 
I  a  house  on  the  right  bank,  immediately  below  them. 

Here  I  goi  a  great  variety  of  intbrmation  regarding  this  part  of 
I  tlie  country.  It  is  only  about  13  years  since  it  began  to  be  settlcnl, 
and  it  has  made  rapid  progress.  The  climate  is  healthy,  and  the 
winters  mild.  Improved  land  on  the  river  sells  for  eight  dollars, 
land  unim}.i-ovcd  for  four  dollars  per  acre.  Letart's  falls  are  only  a 
jiftiftcu»Te?'t,  which  th.e  keel  boats  ascend  upwards.  In  the  course 
jot  the  day  we  passed  several  families  moving  down  the  river  to  Ken- 
jtucky;  we  also  passed  a  floating  store. 

September  4th,  we  left  Letart's  falls  at  half  past  6  o'clock;  the 
Imorning  was  cloudy,  the  thermometer  was  69°,  in  the  water  it  was 

'•    The  wind  was  blowing  up  the  river  with  a  very  strong  cur- 
jfeatj  and,  being  obliged  to  coast  along  the  bank,  we  made  but  small 

45 


ii 

■  *yL; 

'•itt^ ''  s 

:  M 

•IP'  1 

*■': 


i  ■ 


Wi:\ 


•  •  1  f"^ .. ,  g" 


SSi 


TDAVKLS   ON 


progress.  We  met  several  vessels  loaded  with  salt,  bound  up  tlu 
river,  and  judging  from  the  state  of  the  winds  since  we  left  Pith. 
burg,  I  was  satisfied  we  could  have  sailed  up  to  Pittsburg  in  little 
more  than  half  the  time  we  took  to  come  down.  The  keel  boati  sail 
up  at  the  rate  of  about  20  miles  a  day.  The  scenery  continues  near' 
ly  similar  to  that  already  described,  to  the  Great  Kanhaway,  which 
we  reached  at  sun-set.  The  Kanhaway  is  a  large  river  in  Virginia. 
on  which  there  is  now  a  great  trade  in  srlt.  It  appears  at  its  outlet 
to  be  nearly  as  large  as  the  Ohio.  At  this  place  there  is  a  little 
town  on  the  Virginia  side,  on  a  high  bank,  called  Point  Pleasant, 
where  we  left  Mr.  Murray  and  his  friend,  and  passed  on  to  Gallio 
polls ;  at  which  town  I  was  anxious  to  stop  all  night,  to  moke 
observations. 

It  was  dark  before  we  arrived,  so  that  we  had  some  difficulty 
in  fixing  our  boat,  and  getting  properly  accommodated  with  lode- 
ings ;  and  our  Frenchman  having  wished  to  stop  <.t  Point  Plea- 
sant, I  was  a  good  deal  troubled  with  his  ilUhumour. 

September  Sth.  This  morning  we  took  a  walk  round  the  town, 
and  I  was  pleased  to  find  it  in  a  thriving  state.  A  number  of 
buildings  had  becij.  lately  erected,  most  of  them  of  brick,  and  a 
handsome  brick  academy  was  building.  A  number  of  little  ponds  at 
the  back  of  the  tov/n  were  drained,  and  the  fields  around  had  been 
recently  put  into  a  state  of  active  cultivation.  The  town  wgi 
stocked  with  orchards,  and  the  fruit  was  excellent.  We  were  in- 
troduced to  several  of  the  early  French  settlers,  who  gave  a  differ- 
ent history  of  the  place  from  what  I  had  seen  before  in  books,  and 
the  substance  of  tlicir  information  I  have  engrossed  in  the  follow- 
ing account. 

Galliopolis  is  the  capital  of  Gallia  county,  and  is  beautifulljf 
situated,  on  a  second  bank  of  the  Ohio.  It  in  laid  out  on  a  gooJ 
plan :  there  is  a  scjuare  of  eight  acres  in  the  centre,  and  the  builii- 
ing  ground  is  divided  into  squares  of  five  acres  each,  by  street*  cl 
€6  feet  wide,  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles.  The  building 
lots  are  85  feet  in  front,  by  1 70  deep,  and  contain  one  third  of  nn 
•ere.  They  sell,  at  present,  for  from  25  dollars  to  200  doilari 
each.  The  number  of  houses  is  about  70,  nnd  the  inhabitants  300.  | 
The  public  buildings  are  a  court-house,  and  the  academy ;  wliicli 
last  is  to  contain  a  room  for  a  church,  one  for  a  military  acadcmj, 
and  one  for  a  masonic  hall. 

Except  domei^tic  manuikctures,   there  are  none  in  the  to«i! 


THE   OHIO   RIVER. 


355 


though  there  are  several  in  the  country,  and  some  are  projected 
which  would  probably  succeed  very  well.  There  are  no  water  lulls 
for  machinery  on  the  Ohio,  but  they  have  coal  in  abundance,  and 
steam-mills  are  likely  to  become  very  general.  One  is  projected 
here.  The  different  professions  are,  one  tavern-keeper,  two  black- 
smiths, two  tanners,  three  storekeepers,  three  master  masons,  and 
lix  or  seven  carpenters.  Provisions  are  reasonable :  flour  two  dol- 
lars })€r  cwt.,  beet  three  dollars,  pork  three  dollars,  corn  33  cents 
per  bushel,  butter  6^  cents  per  lb.  eggs  6\  cents  per  dozen,  fowls 
6\  cents  each. 

This  place  was  originally  settled  by  a  French  colony,  who  pur- 
chased the  lands  in  France  for  five  dollars  per  acre ;  but  soon  after 
settling  here  they  were  unfortunately  engaged  in  a  war  with  the  In- 
dians, which  contributed  vcr^  niuch  to  disturb  and  dispirit  the 
colony.  This,  however,  they  would  have  overcome,  had  they  got 
quiet  possession  of  thcr  lands  afterwards ;  but  they  were  involved 
ill  a  dispute  about  the  land  titles,  one  of  the  most  serious  evils 
that  can  befal  new  settlers ;  many  of  them  bought  their  lands  ^  ae* 
cond  time  and  remained ;  some  went  to  Fr'^nch  Crrant,  where  the 
United  States  gave  them  a  quantity  of  land  to  indemnify  them  for 
tlieir  losses,  and  some  moved  away  altogct^her.  These  circumstan> 
ces  were  the  cause  of  the  dismemberment  of  the  colony,  in  conse- 
quence of  which  they  did  no  good  here,  nor  any  where  else. 

Galliopolis  has  been  reputed  a  sickly  place,  but  this  is  a  mistake ; 
it  is  quite  healthy,  and  it  is  a  beautiful  situation.  It  has  been  also 
supposed  that  no  body  should  go  to  a  new  ^  )untry,  except  they 
can  take  an  ake  in  their  hand,  and  cut  down  trees.  This  is  also  a 
mistake.  An  association  of  farmers,  mechanics,  &c.,  have  the 
best  chance,  because  their  combined  labours  are  equal  to  all  their 
wants.  Witness  the  Harmonist  Society ;  and  I  have  no  doubt, 
from  what  I  learned  regarding  the  French  colony,  that  it  also 
would  have  done  very  well,  liad  they  not  been  imposed  upon  in 
(heir  own  country  as  to  the  land. 


J-^' 


'  i   bt 


liie  in  the  to»D 


356 


•j-'f 


TRAVELS  ON 


CHAPTER  LXXII. 


.  f  ■ 


Leave  GalUopoliSi — Portsmmth^ — Limestonei^— Cincinnati. 

While  we  were  making  our  inquiries  at  Galliopolis,  Mr. 
Murray  and  his  friend  came  up  with  us,  but  stopping  only  a  few 
jminutcs,  they  passed  on  before  we  were  ready;  I  liad  a  great  deal 
of  trouble  to  keep  my  fretful  Frenchman  in  good  humour.  "  ^Vllat 
you  always  inquire,  inquire,"  says  he,  "  at  every  body,  and 
about  every  thing?  don't  you  see  there's  water,  and  there's  trees 
.and  there's  houses,  and  there's  fields?  and  just  say  to  the  people:- 
the  western  country  is  the  first  in  the  world — tlie  rivers  are  bcauti. 
ful,  and  the  trees  are  magnificent,  and  the  climate  is  delightful; 
and  as  to  the  soil,  you  can  take  a  handful,  and  squeeze  a  gill  of  oil 
out  of  it."  "  lie  quiet,  now,"  says  I,  «  and  just  take  things  easy. 
You  Frenchmen  are  always  for  applying  a  magnifying  glass  to  ob- 
jects, but  I  wish  simply  to  state  things  as  they  are." 

We  left  Galliopolis  at  half-past  1 1  :  the  day  was  clear  and  beau- 
tiful ;  the  thermometer  stood  at  78".  We  were  now  favoured  with 
a  little  breeze  which  helped  us  along,  and  having  made  22  niilej, 
we  stopped  at  the  house  of  a  Mr.  Riggs,  near  the  extremity  of  the 
Ohio  company's  purchase.  We  found  this  a  very  comfortable  set- 
tlement, on  a  second  bank  of  the  Ohio,  and  Mr.  Riggs  had  a 
large  and  industrious  family.  He  told  us  that  he  sat  down  here 
about  12  years  ago,  and  had  not  yet  made  a  purchase  of  his  lands, 
but  expected  to  buy  them  soon,  and  would  be  willing  to  give  8 
dollars  an  acre  for  them.  Here  we  saw  the  women  busy  spinning 
and  weaving  cotton ;  and  were  informed  that  they  raised  it  on  their 
own  plantation,  which  is  in  latitude  38°  40'.  They  raise  also  sweet 
potatoes  and  ground-nuts.  We  were  informed  that  the  weather 
liad  been  cool  and  pleasant  here  all  summer,  and  that  they  seldom 
experienced  the  extremes  of  heat  or  cold,  Mr.  iliggs  gave  us  an 
recount  of  the  settlement  of  that  pert  of  the  country.  The  first 
clcarers,  ov  squatters,  as  they  are  called,  look  out  a  situation  where 
they  can  find  it,  and  clear  and  cultivate  apiece  of  land.  A  second 
class  come  after  them,  who  have  got  a  little  money,  and  tiiey  buy 
111)  the  improvements  of  the  first  settlcrii,  and  add  to  then),  but  with- 
out buying  the  land.  A  third  and  last  class  generally  come  for  per- 
manent settlement,  and  buy  both  land  and  improvements.    ^MlC" 


THE   OHIO   RIVER.  357 

this  lost  class  have  made  a  settlement,  the  country  rapidly  improve:*, 
and  assumes  the  appearance  of  extended  cultivation.  It  is  presum- 
ed the  whole  banks  of  the  Ohio,  as  far  as  we  have  travelled,  will 
have  that  appearance  within  10  years.      ;»,        ,  .,  ^  j..-^   . 

While  we  were  here,  a  stranger  arrived  from  Kentucky,  who 
also  got  lodgings,  and,  when  Mr.  Iliggs*  family  were  all  collected, 
we  had,  if  not  a  brilliant,  at  least  a  very  numerous  company. — 
There  were  seven  or  eight  sons,  and  three  or  four  dau/jhters :  how 
they  were  all  accommodated  with  beds  I  do  not  know,  but  we  got 
«  very  good  one  on  the  lower  floor,  the  old  man  and  old  woman  be- 
ing upon  the  one  hand,  and  two  or  three  of  the  daughters  on  the 
other.  The  bed-clothes  were  made  wholly  of  cotton,  and  we  were 
very  comfortable,  '       *     '  "  ♦  ^  .  ■    ,■....>  : 

Sept.  6. — We  started  at  6 ;  the  morning  was  foggy,  the  thermo- 
meter 53°.  Twelve  miles  from  Mr.  Riggs'  we  stopped  at  a  small 
tavern,  where  we  found  the  landlord  a  great  politician,  and  very  com- 
municative. He  said  he  was  a  true  democratic  republican,  though 
lie  lived  within  half  a  mile  of  Federal  creek.  Below  this  place  the 
country  becomes  level,  and  so  continues  to  Sandy  creek,  the  boundary 
ofthestateof  Kentucky,  which  we  reached  in  the  afternoon,  andhav- 
ing  long  desired  to  see  that  celebrated  state,  I  immediately  went  on 
shore  to  shake  hands  with  the  soil.  I  could  not,  in  terms  of  our 
Frenchman's  notion,  "  squeeze  a  gill  of  oil  out  of  it,"  but  I  found 
it  of  an  excellent  quality,  and  supplied  with  large  timber,  princi- 
pally beech  and  sugar-maple.  The  country  beyond  this  assumes  a 
hilly  aspect,  but  the  banks  are  remarkably  fertile.  We  made  an 
attempt  to  procure  lodgings  in  Kentucky,  but,  as  in  Virginia,  with- 
out effect.  We  found  in  the  house  where  we  applied  nothing  but 
filth  and  wretchedness,  and,  passing  over  to  the  Ohio  side,  we  got 
most  comfortabie  lodgings  with  a  siow-married  couple,  who  had 
very  laudably  provided  a  bed  for  strangers,  besides  their  own. 
lliey  would  take  nothing  for  our  accommodation,^  the  second  in- 
stance of  the  kind  we  had  met  with  on  the  Ohio.      ^'        -  v.    ' 

September  7th.  We  started  at  half-past  5.  The  morning  was 
foggy;  the  thermometer  55°.  The  scenery  on  the  river  was  now 
very  fine.  At  9  o'clock  we  were  up  with  a  remai'kable  rock, 
called  Hanging  rock,  and  we  stopped  at  a  plantation  in  Kentucky, 
on  a  beautiful  bend  of  the  river,  where  mc  got  some  milk  and  but- 
ter from  a  Maryland  family.  They  were  industrious,  and  highly 
pleased  with  their  iiew  situation.      The  land,   they  informed  v^ 


i\ 


358  TRAVELS  OH 

cost  S  dollars  50  cents  per  acre,  and  they  could  dispose  of  eren 
article  of  produce  on  the  river  as  follows :  corn  26  cents  per  bushel 
wheat  50,  potatoes  40,  meal  40,  flour  2  dollars.  One  day's  labour 
in  the  week  was  sufficient  to  support  the  family,  and  they  did  not 
depend  on  negro  labour.  The  country  below  this  was  very  vari< 
ous  as  we  passed,  but  the  soil  generally  good.  The  river  was  about 
700  yards  wide,  and  so  transparent,  that  we  could  see  the  bottom 
distinctly  at  8  feet  deep,  and  a  variety  of  fishes  playing  upon  it. 

The  river  keeps  generally  a  south-west  course,  till  it  passes  the 
latitude  of  S8**  30',  and  at  Sandy  river  makes  a  bend  to  the  north- 
west. We  were  now  sailing  in  that  direction,  and  passed  Little 
Sandy  river,  and  French  Grant ;  and  at  Little  Scioto,  the  river 
bends  to  the  south-west,  where  we  took  a  fair  wind,  which  carried 
us  very  swiftly  to  the  the  Big  Scioto,  on  which  is  Portsmouth  and 
Alexandria.  As  the  latter  is  an  old  settlement,  we  meant  to  have 
stopped  at  it  all  night ;  but,  on  making  inquiry  for  a  tavern,  we 
found  there  was  none,  and  that  the  town  was  going  to  decay.  It 
appears  it  is  liable  to  be  flooded,  although  it  is  on  a  bank  60  tee: 
liigh ;  but  Portsmouth,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Scioto,  is  not  sub' 
ject  to  that  inconvenience,  and  is  progressing  very  fast.  Being  at 
the  outlet  of  the  Scioto,  one  of  the  finest  rivers  in  the  state  of 
Ohio,  I  presume  it  will  become  a  place  of  very  considerable  impor< 
tance.  We  were  told  that  the  banks  of  the  Scioto  were  very  rich,  j 
though  a  littl^  unhealthy ;  but,  as  the  country  wf(s  clearing  up,  the 
sickness  was  diminishing  every  year.     ' 

We  continued  our  course  down  the  river,  and  inquired  for  lodg- 
ings; but  we  c6uld  not  be  accommodated  where  we  first  applied; 
and  this  was  the  first  instance  of  the  kind  that  had  occurred  in  the 
state  of  Ohio :  a  proof  of  the  comfortable  circumstances  and  hos< 
pitality  of  the  settlers.  We  applied  at  the  next  house,  half  a  mile  be- 
low ;  and  here  we  were  accommodated,  but  very  poorly.  The  fanii* 
ly  were  recently  from  Virginia,  and  they  had  to  part  with  their  own  j 
bed  to  us.  The  soil  is  very  rich  here ;  and  we  were  told,  that  the 
produce  of  12  acres  would  with  ease  support  a  numerous  lamilv. 
Land  is  5  dollars  per  acre,  and  workmen  have  2  bushels  of  com 
and  their  maintenance,  for  a  day's  work. 

September  8th.     We  rose  at  half  past  5.     The  morning  wai  j 
clear;  the  thermometer  60°.     But  before  setting  out,  a  difficultj 
occurred :  we  had  nothing  less  than  a  five  dollar  piece,  and  the 
£fimily  could  not  change  it.    I  was  obliged)  therefore,  to  i^alk  luil> 


TRB   OHIO    KIVBR.  S59 

a  mile  up  the  bankt  of  the  river  to  procure  it,  at  the  house  whert 
tic  applied  for  lodgings  last  evening.  The  landlord  was  an  Irish- 
man,  and  expressed  great  regret  that  he  was  not  at  home  when 
we  applied,  as  he  would  hate  wished  to  have  talked  about  the  old 
country.  He  accommodated  me  with  change,  and  expressed  a 
(letire  to  detain  me  some  little  time  ;  but,  the  wind  being  fair,  I 
was  loth  to  lose  a  minute,  and  I  set  out  for  the  boat  with  all 
possible  dispatch.  In  my  way,  I  passed  through  a  fine  bottom, 
itocked  with  trees  of  extraordinary  size  and  beauty.  They  were 
mostly  chcsnut,  quite  straight  and  smooth  in  the  trunk,  and  several 
of  them,  which  I  measured,  were  18  feet  in  circumference. 

On  my  arrival  at  the  boat,  I  found  the  Frenchman  **  gna'wing 
his  nails"  with  anxiety ;  but  we  set  sail  with  a  fair  wind,  and  soon 
made  up  our  lee-way.  We  again  passed  our  friend  Mr.  Murray, 
and  the  wind  continuing  to  favour  us,  we  made  rapid  progress. 
We  passed  Salt-Lick  creek,  near  which  we  saw  a  number  of 
beautiful  conical  hills,  and,  after  sailing  nearly  40  miles  through 
very  va:  legated  scenery,  we  reached  Manchester  before  dark, 
where  we  stopped  all  night.  Manchester  is  a  small  place,  con- 
listing  of  12  or  14  houses  only,  and  is  not  thriving. 

September  9.  We  set  sail  at  6  o'clock.  The  morning  was  fine, 
and,  having  a  fair  wind  we  had  a  rapid  ran  of  12  miles  to  Lime- 
itone,  which  we  reached  at  8  o'clock.  This  is  one  of  the  shipping 
ports  of  Lexington,  and  is  quite  a  bustling  place ;  but  we  only 
stopped  at  it  while  we  took  breakfast,  when  we  immediately  set 
saii,  and  at  2  o'clock  reached  Augusta,  a  very  handsome  little 
town  ia  Kentucky,  21  miles  below  Limestone.  It  is  thriving  re- 
markably well. 

We  left   Augusta  at  3  o'clock,  and,  3  miles  below  it,  parted 
with  our  boatman,  and  continued  our  course  in  expectation  of 
reaching  the  plantation  of  a  Mr.  Kennedy,  a  Scotsman,  to  whom 
I  had  a  letter  of  introduction  ;  but  the  wind  failed  us,  and  we  were 
I  obliged  to  stop  6  miles  short  of  it,  at  the  house  of  a  Mr.  Taylor. 

I  was  much  pleased  with  the  appearance  of  this  part  of  the  coun^^ 
[try,  and  Mr.  Taylor  being  a  slirewd,  intelligent  man,  I  received  a 
hreat  deal  of  information  from  him.  This  situation  is  in  the  Vir- 
jgmia  military  lands,  and  the  country  is  very  agreeable.  The  price 
jof  land  is  generally  2  dollars  per  acre.  The  principal  timber  is 
Nlnut,  blue  ash,  beech,  and  sugar-tree.  Cleared  lands  sell  from 
M  to  10  dollars,  according  to  the  quality.    Flour  is  2  dollars  per 


■  ^;?f  til 


%"!:•• 


1'^  !>^ 

i 


>j» , 


S60 


THAVRLS    ON 


cwt. ;  wheat  50  cents  per  buMhcl;  horses  from  50  to  60  dollar.- 
cows  10  dollars.  Mr  Taylor  moved  from  Washington  counu 
P«nnylvania,  and  considerH  this  soil  and  climate  as  much  better  than 
that  he  had  left.  The  first  frost  appears  abont  the  middle  of  Oc- 
tober, but  it  is  slight ;  and  winter  does  not  set  in  until  Clu-intmiij. 
They  have  a  good  deal  of  rain  in  winter,  but  inow  docs  uot  lie 
long.     -  • 

September  10th.  1  rose  very  early  this  morning,  whcH  I  ^aw 
the  comet  for  the  first  time.  The  morning  was  clear,  and  the 
thermometer  stood  at  50°.  The  wind  was  north-east.  North-easi 
winds  seem  to  have  the  same  effect  here  that  north-west  winds  have 
on  the  other  side  of  the  mountains.  They  render  the  air  clear, 
dry,  and  clastic. 

At  6  o'clock  we  got  under  weigh,  and  at  a  little  past  7  reached 
the  plantation  of  Mr.  Kennedy,  on  the  Kentucky  side.  His  house 
was  a  little  way  back  from  the  river,  and  I  went  up  to  present  niv 
letter,  when  he  received  me  with  great  cordiality.  I  told  him  ihe 
humour  of  my  travelling  companion,  and  he  came  down  to  the 
beach,  to  invite  him  to  breakfast.  While  we  were  on  the  btacli, 
Mr.  Murray  and  his  companion  arrived,  and  Mr.  Kennedy  gave 
them  an  invitation  also ;  so  we  moved  to  the  house  in  a  body.  I 
would  wrong  Mr.  Kennedy  to  say,  barely,  he  was  kind ;  he  w;h 
hospitable  in  the  highest  degree.  He  got  an  excellent  brcaklii>i 
prepared,  and,  in  the  interim,  treated  us  with  whiskey  and  honey, 
well  known  in  Scotland  by  the  name  of  Athol-brose,  in  honour  of 
which  the  celebrated^  Niel  Gow  composed  an  elegant  strathspey,  and 
gave  it  that  name.  -         >      • 

Before  we  had  finished  our  breakfast,  Mr.  Kennedy  drew  a  fid- 
dle from  a  box,  and  struck  up  the  tune  of  Rothemurche's  Rant. 
He  played  in  the  true  Highland  style,  and  1  could  not  stop  to 
finish  my  breakfast,  but  started  up  and  danced  Shantreacs.  The 
old  man  was  delighted,  and  favoured  us  with  a  great  many  Scot- 
tish airs.  When  he  laid  down  the  fiddle,  I  took  it  up,  and  com- 
nienced  in  my  turn,  playing  some  new  strathspeys  that  he  had  not 
beai'd  before ;  but  he  knew  the  spirit  of  them  full  well,  and  he  also  i 
gave  us  Shantrews  "  louping  near  bawk  height,"  albeit  he  was  weE 
stricken  in  years.  .        i—.  ,\,J.t*t„.      n^w 

,  He  next  played  a  number  of  airs,  all  Scottish,  on  a  whistle;  | 
and  then  pulled  out  some  MS.  poetry,  and  read  several  pieces,  i 
which  were  highly  humoious.    He  was  particularly  severe  upon 


TH8     OHIO   RIVER.  36 L 

the  methodists,  whose  frantic  gestures  he  imitated,  crying  out, 
»iiloiyi  gloty"  and  stamping  his  feet,  as  he  recited  a  piece  of 
utire  upon  their  conduct.  But  this  wan  too  rich  a  feast  to  last : 
we  were  obliged  to  depart ;  but  I  made  a  promise  to  pay  him  ano- 
ther visit,  if  I  could,  before  I  left  the  country. 

The  wind  was  unsteady,  and  sometimes  ahead ;  but  we  made 
considerable  progress.  The  river,  and  scenery  on  its  banks,  con- 
tinue very  beautiful,  and  the  country  here  is  all  healthy.  Twenty 
miles  below  Mr.  Kennedy's,  we  passed  the  little  Miami  river,  a 
fine  romantic  stream,  abounding  with  fulls  and  mill-scats,  and 
eight  miles  below  it  we  reached  Cinciimati,  at  dark,  where  we 
found  excellent  accommodations  at  the  Columbian  tavern. 


CHAPTER  LXXIV. 

Cincinnati^ — Symme^s  purchase^ — Cincinnati  district^ — Newport. 

Cincinnati  is  elegantly  situated  on  a  first  and  second  bank 
on  the  north  side  of  the  Ohio  river,  along  which  it  extends  nearly 
half  a  mile,  and  as  far  back  in  the  country.  The  scite  of  the  town 
is  elevated  from  70  to  120  feet  above  low  water  mark,  and  is  never 
overflowed.  The  land  and  water  around  it  exhibit  a  very  hand- 
some appearance.  The  Ohio  is  here  three  quarters  of  a  mile  wide ; 
and  Licking  river,  a  considerable  stream  in  Kentucky,  falls  into  it 
right  opposite.  The  streets  of  Cincinnati  are  broad,  crossing  one 
another  at  right  angles ;  and  the  greater  part  of  the  houses  being 
of  bricl;,  it  has  a  very  handsome  appearance.  The  streets,  how- 
ever, are  not  yet  paved,  except  the  side  walks,  on  which  account 
they  are  unpleasant  in  mflddy  weather ;  but  that  is  an  evil  which 
will  soon  be  remedied.  Cincinnati  was  laid  out  about  21  years  ago, 
since  which  it  has  made  rapid  progress,  and  now  contains  about  400 
houses,  and  2283  inhabitants.  The  public  buildings  are,  a  court- 
house, jail,  bank,  three  market-houses,  and  some  places  for  pub- 
lic worship,  two  cotton  factories,  and  some  considerable  breweries 
and  distilleries.  The  taverns  are  not  numerous,  but  there  are  up- 
wards of  30  dry-goods  stores,  in  which  from  200,000  to  250,000 
dollars  worth  of  imported  goods  are  disposed  of  annually. 

This  is,  next  to  Pittsburg,  the  greatest  place  for  manufactures 
and  mechanical  operations  on  the  river,  and  the  professions  exev- 

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362 


TRAVELS    ON 


ciscd  arc  nearly  as  numerous  as  at  Pittsburg.  There  are  inaioai 
and  stone-cutters,  brick-mnkcrs,  carpenters,  cabinet-innkcrs,  coop. 
ers,  turners,  mnrhinc-makers,  whccl-wrights,  smiths  and  nailom 
coppersmiths,  tin-smiths,  silver-smiths,  gun-smiths,  clock  and 
watch-makers,  tanners,  saddlers,  Iwot  and  shoe-makers,  gjovirs 
and  breeches-makers,  butchers,  bakers,  brewers,  distillers,  cotton- 
spinners,  weavers,  dyers,  taylors,  printers,  bookbinders,  ropc-makcrs, 
tobacconists,  8oa|)-boilers,  candle-makers,  comb-makers,  painters, 
pot  and  pearl  ash-makers .  >      .   ,    *        -•  i.  . 

These  branches  are  mostly  all  increasing,  and  afford  good  wa- 
j^os  to  the  journeymen.  Carpenters  and  cabinet-makers  have  one 
dollar  per  day  and  their  board  ;  masons  have  two  dollars  per  1000 
for  laying  bricks  and  their  board ;  when  they  board  tlicmselvcj 
they  have  about  four  dollars  per  1000.  Other  classes  have  from 
one  to  one  dollar  twenty-five  cents  per  day,  according  to  the  na- 
ture of  the  work. 

Wool  and  cotton  carding  and  spinning  can  be  increased  to  a 
great  extent ;  and  a  well  organized  manufactory  of  glass  bottle 
would  succeed.  Porter  brewing  could  be  augmented,  but  it  would 
iirst  be  necessary  to  have  bottles,  as  the  people  here  prefer  malt 
liquor  in  the  bottled  state.  A  manufactory  of  wool-hats  would  pro- 
bably succeed,  and  that  of  stockings  would  do  remarkably  well, 
provided  frame  s^^h-work  were  established  along  with  it — not  else. 
As  the  people  are  becoming  wealthy  and  polished  in  their  maimers, 
probably  a  manufactory  of  piano-fortes  would  do  upon  a  small 
scale. 

There  are  ample  materials  for  manufactures.  Cotton  is  brought 
from  Cumberland  river,  for  from  two  to  three  cents.  Wool  is  be- 
coming plenty  in  the  country,  and  now  sells  at  50  cents  per  pound; 
all  the  materials  for  glass-making  arc  abundant ;  coal  has  not  been 
found  in  the  immedia,^  neighbourhood,  but  can  be  laid  down  here 
at  a  pretty  reasonable  rate;  and  it  is  probable  the  enterprising  citi- 
zens will  soon  introduce  the  steam-engine  in  manufactures.  Wood 
is  brought  to  the  town  at  a  very  low  rate.  There  is  a  very  consider- 
able trade  between  New  Orleans  and  this  place,  and  several  barges 
were  in  the  river  wbcw  we  visiljcd  it.  One  had  recently  sailed  up- 
wards over  the  talis. 

The  expense  of  living  is  lower  than  at  Pittsburg.  House  rent 
for  a  mechanic  is  about  CO  dollars,  but  the  most  of  them  soon  get 
houses  of  tlicir  own.     W^ood  is  1  dollar  per  cord  j   coals  8  to  12 


THE   OHIO    KIVBK. 


369 


eentt  per  bushel ;  flour  2  dollars  per  cwt. ;  corn-meal  33  cents  per 
bashd ;  potatoes  25 ;  vegetables  are  very  plenty  and  cheap ;  beef, 
mutton,  and  veal  4  to  5  cents  per  lb, ;  pork  2J ;  venison  25  centg 
per  bam;  fowls,  one  dollar  per  dozen;  ducks,  25  cents  per  pair; 
jwseST^  to  50;  turkies  the  same;  wild  turkies  12i  to  25  cents; 
fish  very  cheap;  cheese  12j  per  lb. ;  butter,  12  to  20;  eggs  6  to 
10 |)er  dozen;  beer  5  dollars  per  barrel;  cyder  3  dollars;  whiskey 
37}  to  40  cents  per  gallon  ;  peach  brandy  50 ;  salt  I  dollar  per 
bosbel. 

This  place,  like  Marietta,  is  mostly  settled  by  New  Englanders; 
and  the  state  of  society  is  very  excellent.  Education  is  well  attend- 
ed to,  and  the  people  arc  very  correct  in  their  morals.  There  are 
three  newspapers  printed  here,  and  they  get  papers  from  ev«ry 
state  in  the  union.         '   '-      '•>■■•• 

Symmes's  purchase,  on  which  Cincinnati  is  situated,  is  one  of 
the  most  judicious  that  has  ever  been  made  in  the  state  of  Ohio. 
It  lies  between  the  two  Miami  rivers,  about  20  miles  in  breadth. 
and  extends  from  the  Ohio  into  the  interior  of  the  country,  about 
30  miles.  It  contains  one  of  the  best  bodies  of  land  in  the  whole 
Me,  and  is  now  nearly  settled  up.  Land  is  consequently  pretty 
high,  and  may  be  rated  at  5  dollars  per  acre,  uncleared.  In  this 
[mrchase,  like  that  by  the  Ohio  company,  there  is  a  reserve  for  a 
school,  and  another  for  a  church ;  but  I  was  informed,  that  in  con- 
sequence of  the  variety  of  religious  opinions  in  the  district,  the 
litter  has  been  productive  only  of  discord.  The  effect  of  the 
school  section  will  be  noticed  hereafter.  *        '       ' 

The  Cincinnati  District  is  situated  to  the  westward  of  Sym- 
mes's purchase,  and  the  United  States  land-office  is  in  Cincinnati. 
This  district  is  partly  in  the  Indiana  territory,  but  mostly  in  tlio 
state  of  Ohio,  and  contains  a  body  of  mo^t  excellent  land.  It  is 
boundeil  on  the  west  by  a  line  drawn  from  opposite  the  mouth  of 
Kentucky  river,  to  where  the  Indian  north  boundary  line  intersects 
the  western  line  of  the  state  of  Ohio,  and  contains  about  3000 
square  miles. 

These  two  districts  constitute  what  is  called  the  Miami  Cmmtrtfy 
•hicli,  in  point  of  soil,  climate,  and  natural  advantages,  is  pro- 
bably inferior  to  none  in  the  United  States,  and  few  arc  ef|ual  to  it. 
The  soil  of  this  district  is  reckoned,  upon  the  whole,  as  the  best  in 
the  state  of  Ohio.  It  is  rated,  in  the  state  books,  in  this  way:  in 
100  parts,  G  are  first  rale,  70  second  rate,  and  24  third  rate  land. 


1 
If 


364  TRAVELS   ON 

The  face  of  the  country  is  agreeably  uneven,  but  not  mountainous: 
and  the  country  has  a  plentiful  supply  of  the  most  useful  minerals, 
particularly  iron.  There  are  also  several  mineral  springs. 

The  two  principal  rivers  are  the  two  Miamis,  but  it  is  remarkablv 
well  watered  with  small  streams.  The  large  Miami  is  nn  elegant 
river,  200  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  but,  75  miles  in  the  interior  of 
the  country,  it  contracts  to  the  breadth  of  30  yards.  It  is  naviga- 
ble, however,  for  canoes,  50  miles  above  this,  in  all  125  miles.— 
The  whole  length  of  the  rivier  in  a  straight  line  is  about  130  miles, 
but  including  its  turnings  it  is  nearly  double  that  distance.  Ow 
of  its  branches  interlocks  with  the  Scioto,  and  from  another  there  is 
a  portage,  of  only  nine  miles,  to  a  branch  of  the  Miami  of  the  lakes. 

The  whole  of  this  country  has  been  settled  up  in  little  more  than 
20  years,  ond  it  will  afford  an  idea  of  the  value  of  the  country  to 
state  that  the  inhabitants,  of  course  mostly  all  emigrants,  now  a- 
mount  to  nearly  40,000.  Hamilton  county,  a  small  district,  con- 
sisting of  little  more  than  300  square  miles,  contains  upwards  of 
15,000,  being  more  than  50  to  the  square  mile. 

I  was  introduced  to  judge  Symmes,  and  the  different  gcndemen 
in  the  land-office,  to  whom,  and  Mr.  Kilgour,  a  Scotsman,  1  was 
mostly  indebted  for  my  information  here.  Having  finished  my 
inquiries  at  Cincinnati,  I  crossed  the  river  to  wait  upon  colonel 
Taylor,  at  Newport,  to  whom  I  had  a  letter  of  introduction. 

Newpout  is  a  small  place,  and  is  quite  eclipsed  by  the  splendour 
of  Cincinnati,  There  is. a  good  brick  building  on  the  banks  of 
Licking  Creek,  in  which  is  deposited  a  magazine  of  arms,  ammu- 
nition, &c. ;  so  that  Newport  is  a  sort  of  military  station,  but  it  is 
rather  unhealthy  on  the  creek,  and  I  think  it  would  have  been  wisi> 
to  have  placed  it  on  the  Cincinnati  side. 

I  found  colonel  Taylor  a  very  communicative,  sensible  man,  and 
remarkably  well  acquainted  in  this  part  of  the  country,  where  he 
is  an  old  settler.  He  has  nn  elegant  farm,  and  a  vineyard  of  grapes, 
the  finest  that  I  have  yet  seen  in  America.  Grapes  flourish  luxu* 
riantly  here,  a  circumstance  that  proves  to  a  demonstration,  that 
wine  could  be  made  in  this  part  of  the  country. 

Here  I  was  introduced  to  captain  Baen,  of  colonel  Boyd's  regi- 
ment. He  had  just  arrived  from  Boston,  and  was  waiting  for  a 
passage  down  the  river  to  join  the  army ;  and  I  agreed  to  speak  to 
iny  huinoursomc  French  captain  to  take  him  in  our  boat,  at  which 
he  expressed  his  satisfaction.  ^  -^'       --  ^,  «      .    . 


Leave  Cincinnati 


THE   OeiO  RIVIR.  365 

The  greater  part  of  the  iufurmation  I  received  from  Mr.  Taylor, 
jfgarding  the  country,  is  anticipated  in  the  preceding  remarks,  but 
there  were  various  other  topics  of  conversation,  some  of  which  1 
nay  just  glance  at.  On  the  Indian  war,  I  was  informed  that 
the  opinion  was  general,  tiiere  would  be  no  fighting,  or,  if  any,  it 
would  be  of  short  duration ;  and  they  did  not  apprehend  the  small- 
eit  (laoger  from  it  in  this  part  of  the  country.  On  Burr's  conspi- 
racy, witli  which  colonel  Taylor  seems  to  have  been  well  acquaint- 
ed, he  bore  testimony  to  the  integrity  and  laudable  conduct  of  Ge- 
neral Wilkinson,  in  suppressing  one  of  the  vilest  treasons  that  ever 
was  exhibited  in  the  country.    ,-  )  , 


*' 


CHAPTER  LXXV. 

Leaoe  Cincinnati^ — Miami  river, — KenUtcky  riva', — Smss  settlement^ 

I   Louisville, 

Our  Frenchman,  with  a  shrug  of  his  shoulders  and  some  little 
reluctance,  having  agreed  to  accommodate  captain  Baen,  we  en- 
gaged a  man  to  row  for  us,  and  after  laying  in  some  provisions, 
part  of  which  was  a  ham,  /hich  we  stowed  in  the  wolf-box,  we 
started  from  Cincinnati  on  the  13th  of  September,  at  4  o'clock  in 
the  afternoon.  The  wind  was  blowing  very  strong  up  the  river,  so 
that  we  made  only  nine  miles,  when  we  lodged  at  a  little  dirty  ta- 
vern, having  the  woi'st  accommodations  we  had  yet  seen  in  the  state 
of  Ohio.  The  banks  of  the  river  were  well  settled  and  cultivated 
to  this  place. 

September  1 4th. — Being  very  glad  to  get  away  from  this  wretch- 
ed tavern,  we  started  at  day-light.  On  examining  our  boat,  we 
found  our  ham  had  been,  as  before,  abstracted  from  the  box ;  but 
a  wolf  was  not  the  thief  this  time ;  it  was  a  cote,  and  the  name  of 
the  box  was  changed  accordingly.  At  8  o'clock  we  passed  the 
Nortli  Bend,  a  remarkable  turn  in  the  river,  and  immediately  after, 
we  stopped  to  breakfast  at  the  house  of  a  captun  Kirtley,  in  Ken- 
tucky. I  le  has  a  pretty  plantation,  and  we  got  an  excellent  break- 
fast. We  were  informed  that  captain  Brown,  a  gentleman  from 
New  Jersey,  lived  half  a  mile  below,  who  had  a  fine  orchard, 
and  as  he  was  very  sociable  and  attentive  to  strangers,  it  would 
be  worth  our  while  to  call  on  him.   The  Frenchman  and  I  started 


'3l» 


366  TKAVELd   ON 

in  the  boat,  and  captain  Baen  walked  along  the  bank.  ]  laviun 
waited  a  while  at  Mr.  Brown's,  he  called  to  us  when  we  were  op. 
posite  the  plantation  ;  but  we  had  already  lost  a  great  deal  of  time 
and  were  inclined  to  gb  on.  But  he  informed  us  that  there  was  a 
great  curiosity  to  l)c  se6n,  so  we  jumped  ashore.  The  curiosity  wiua 
Mammoth's  haunch  bone,  which  had  been  dug  up  in  the  fields  a 
few  days  before.  Captain  Brown  had  it  measured  and  weighed. 
it  was  indeed  a  very  wonderful  bone,  being  three  feet  in  diameter, 
and  weighing  55  pounds :  the  socket  was  eight  inches  in  diameter. 
What  a  stupendous  animal  it  must  have  once  formed  a  part  of! 

If  we  were  gratified  by  the  sight  of  this  bone,  wo  were  still  more 
so  by  the  view  of  Mr.  Brown's  orchards,  where  we  found  fruit  that 
might  have  been  with  propriety  termed  mammoth  apples.  There 
was  a  larger  quantity  of  fine  fruit  here,  than  in  any  orchard  I  had 
ever  seen.  Many  of  the  limbs  of  the  trees  were  literally  broken 
down  with  the  weight,  and  one  or  two  whole  trees  were  nearly 
broken  to  pieces  by  it.  Some  of  the  apples  measured  17i  inches 
in  circumference,  and  Mr.  Brown  boasted,  I  think  with  reason, 
that  he  could  outmatch  the  whole  United  States  with  this  fruit.  It 
was  noticed  before  that  he  is  a  native  of  Jersey,  and  he  informed 
us  that  he  bore  a  commission  in  the  American  war ;  he  had  been 
fifteen  or  sixteen  years  settled  in  this  country,  and  had  only  one 
child,  a  daughter,  who  was  married  to  colonel  Pike,  the  cclebra* 
ted  traveller  in  Louisiana. 

The  wind  continued  to  blow  so  strong  up  the  river,  that  we 
could  not  row  against  it,  and  captain  Brown  insisted  that  ve 
should  stop  to  dinner,  which  we  agreed  to,  and  we  were  treated 
with  great  hospitality.  In  the  afternoon  the  wind  lulled  a  little, 
and  wishing  success  to  our  hospitable  entertainer,  we  took  our 
leave. 

A  few  miles  below  captain  Brown's  we  passed  the  mouth  of  the 
Great  Miami,  which  has  already  been  noticed,  and  which,  at  its 
tonfluence  with  the  Ohio,  has  a  handsome  appearance.  The  wes< 
tern  boundary  line  of  the  state  of  Ohio  is  projected  due  north 
from  the  mouth  of  this  river,  so  that  we  were  now  between  Ken- 
tucky and  the  Indiana  territory.  We  reached  the  house  of  a  cap- 
tain Talbot,  where  we  stopped  for  the  night.  '* ' 

September  15.  On  gettin^^  up  this  morning  we  found  it  pretty 
cold — the  thermometer  had  fallen  to  46®.  The  stream  continued 
beautiful,  but  the  banks  were  ilow  rather  low,  and  the  inhabi* 


TUB   OHIO    RIVER.  Sf)7 

unit  appeared  to  be  mostly  all  new  settlers,  nnd  in  very  poor  cir« 
circumstances.  The  settlements  were  very  thin,  but  the  land  ap- 
mred  to  be  good,  nnd  the  timber  very  luxuriant.  The  whole  bed 
of  the  river  here  is  limestone.  The  wind  continued  to  blow  up 
the  strenm  so  strong,  that  we  could  have  sailed  eight  miles  u}v 
ffgnis  in  the  time  we  took  to  row  one  downwards.  Indeed,  in  the 
middle  of  the  day,  it  was  so  strong  that  we  could  not  make  head 
aminst  it  at  all,  and  we  were  obliged  to  put  ashore  at  Big-bonc- 
lidc  creek.  Big-bone-lick,  so  called  from  the  vast  numbers  of 
large  bones  which  have  been  found  near  it,  is  the  property  of  Mr. 
Colqulioun,  to  whom  I  had  a  letter  of  introduction,  but  I  learned 
that  he  was  at  Lexington,  and  it  was  of  no  consequence  to  go  to 
the  lick,  as  all  the  bones  which  had  been  found  had  been  carried 
away.  In  consequence  of  this  information,  I  had  recourse  to  my 
travelling  companion,  the  Pittsburg  Navigator,  from  which  I 
transcribe  the  following  account ; 

"  Animals'  bones  of  enormous  size  have  been  found  here  in  great 
numbers.  Some  skeletons  nearly  complete  were  not  long  since 
dug  up,  1 1  feet  under  the  surface,  in  a  stiff  blue  clay.  These  ap- 
peared to  be  the  bones  of  different  species  of  animals,  but  all  re- 
niarkid)ly  large.  Some  were  supposed  to  be  those  of  the  mammoth, 
others  of  u  non-descript.  Among  these  bones,  were  two  horns  or 
fenders,  eooh  weighing  150  pounds,  16  feet  long,  and  18  inches  in 
circumference  at  the  big  end ;  and  grinders  of  the  carnivorous 
kind,  weighing  from  three  to  ten  and  a  half  pounds  each ;  and 
others  of  the  granivorous  species,  equally  large,  but  quite  differ- 
ently shaped,  being  flat  and  ridged.  Ribs,  joints  of  the  backbone, 
and  of  the  foot  or  paw,  thigh  and  hip  bones,  upper  jaw  bone,  &c. 
&c  were  also  found,  amounting  in  the  whole  to  about  five  tons 
I  weight. 

"These  bones  were  principally  discovered  by  Dr.  Goforth  and 
I  Mr.  Reeder  of  Cincinnati,  who  sent  them  by  water  to  Pittsburg, 
with  ail  intention  to  transport  them  to  Pliiladelphia,  and  make 
sale  of  them  to  Mr.  Peale,  proprietor  of  the  museum  of  that  city. 
-They  were,  however,  while  in  Pittsburg,  discovered  by  an 
Irish  gentleman,  a  traveller,  who  purchased  them,  reshipped  them 
I  down  the  Ohio,  and  thence  to  Europe. 

"  As  to  the  history  of  the  mammoth,  we  are  much  in  the  dark. 

I  Of  animals  having  once  existed  cainrying  these  enormous  bones, 

there  can  be  no  doubt.     Their  present  existence  is  muck  doubted; 


m 


■r'i  ^4 


■■  I  ay-  L  -I 


TBAVBLS  ON   f 


368 

and  the  only  proof  we  hove  to  the  contrary,  is  a  curious  tradiiion 
of  the  Indians,  handed  down  to  lliem  by  their  fathers,  which  bein? 
delivered  by  a  principal  chief  df  the  Delaware  tribe  to  the  gover- 
nor of  Virginia  durinf^.^  American  revolution,  is  recorded  in  the 
following  words : — *  That  in  ancient  times  a  herd  of  these  tremen. 
dous  animals  came  to  the  Big-bon«  licks  and  began  a  univerul 
destruction  of  the  bear,  deer,  elks,  bufikloes,  and  other  animali 
which  had  been  created  for  the  use  of  the  Indians :  that  the  Great 
Man  above,  looking  down  and  seeing  this,  was  so  enraged,  tlut 
he  seized  his  lightning,  descended  on  the  earth,  and  seated  himself 
on  a  neighbouring  moantain,  on  a  rock,  on  which  his  sent  and 
the  print  of  his  feet  arc  still  to  be  seen,  and  hurled  his  bolts  mnong 
them  till  the  whole  were  slaughtered,  except  the  big  bull,  who, 
presenting  his  forehead  to  the  shafls,  shook  them  off  as  they  fell; 
but  missing  one  at  length,  it  wounded  him  in  the  side ;  whereoo, 
springhig  round,  he  bounded  over  the  Ohio,  over  the  Wabash, 
the  Illinois,  and  finally  over  the  great  lakes,  where  he  is  living  at 
this  day.' — JcffersmCs  Notes  on  Virginia, 

"  There  arc  places  at  the  Big-bone  lick,  where  the  salt  water 
bubbles  up  through  the  earth,  that  are  rendered  a  perfect  qung- 
mire,  admitting  nothing  heavier  walking  over  them  than  geese  or 
other  light  web-footed  fowl.  Cattle  dare  not  venture  nearer  than 
to  their  edges.  One  of  these  places  appears  bottomless,  for  no 
soundings  have  ever  been  found  :  throw  in  a  ten  feet  rail  end-ways, 
audit  buries  itself  without  any  other  force  than  its  own  weight; 
another  embraces  near  a  quarter  of  an  acre,  over  which  groffs 
a  very  fine  and  short  grass.  May  it  not  be  reasonable  to  accouDt 
for  so  many  of  the  mammoth's  bones  being  deposited  at  this  pkce, 
by  presuming,  that  in  their  seeking  the  salt  water,  and  venturinga 
little  too  fur,  or  otherwise  that  their  own  enormous  weight  pushing 
them  forward  too  far  for  recovery,  and  sinking,  thus  were  buried 
one  after  another  to  the  number  we  now  find  their  remains.  The 
places  where  their  bones  are  now  found  are  tolerably  hard,  from 
filling  up  by  the  washings  of  the  small  stream  which  runs  through 
them,  and  from  having  been  much  dug  up,  and  the  mud  exposed 
to  the  sun."* 


river."    This  was 


*  It  may  be  noticoa  hero,  that  an  entire  skclktom  of  this  wonderful  animai  it 
to  bo  seen  in  Peale's  Museum,  PKiLAoiLrHiA,  where  I  found  the  followin|r  accouni. 

*'  It  was  accidentally  discovered  in  Ulster  county,  Kc^v  York,  on  a  fnmi  l>elonging 
to  i<Aax  Muten,  as  he  was  digging  marie  (tvjgi  a  moraas ;  many  of  the  bunes  wac  i 


TIIR   OHIO   RIVER. 


S69 


Al)out  four  o'clock  in  the  nl\ernoon  the  breeze  modcratcil,  and 
ve  tet  sail.    The  ieltlements  were  now  so  thin,  that  we  deemed  it 
npcdicnt  to  look  out  for  a  lodging  betimes,  and  a  little  at^cr  sun- 
ift  we  espied  an  openin<^,  when  Captain  Daen  and  I  went  ashore,  but 
wc  had  to  climb  a  precipice  about  100  feet  high  before  we  reached  it. 
After  walking  a  little  way  we  saw  a  house,  but  looking  into  it,  wc 
found  it  occupied  by  negroes  only,  and  they  told  us  that  we  could 
not  get  lodgings  nearer  than  captain  Hawes',  on  the  banks  of  the 
river,  distant  two  miles.     We  hailed  the  boat,  and  communicated 
this  intelligence ;  and  it  was  agreed  that  our  friends  should  drop 
down  with  the  current,  while  we  walked  along  the  bank.     As  we 
were  leaving  the  negro  house,  we  were  assailed  by  some  dogs,  and 
turned  aside  to  chastise  them ;  but  it  being  now  nearly  dark,  wc 
mistook  our  path,  and  wandered  inadvertently  along  u  bye-path 
ioto  the  woods.     The  path  became  more  and  more  uneven ;  the 
woods  became  more  thick ;   and  the  darkness  increased.     Under 
these  circumstances  we  wandered  more  than  half  an  hour,  when, 
having  lost  all  trace  of  the  path,  we  found  ourselves  entangled  in  a 
thicket;  and  in  attempting  to  disengage  ourselves,  we  fell  souse 
together  over  a  large  tree,  and  tumbled  into  u  den,  where  we  lay 
for  some  time,  stunned  by  the  fall.     I  now  thought  we  had  pro- 
I  ceeded  far  enough  in  this  direction,  and  proposed  to  the  captain 
that  we  should  call  a  halt,  for  if  we  persevered,  we  would,  in  all 
probability,   lose  all  idea  of  our  situation,  and  might  wander  fav 
out  of  our  way.     He  concurred  with  me  in  o])inion,  and  i^  was 
agreed  that  we  should  take  the  direction  which  we  supposea  hd 
towards  the  river;   and  if  we  did  not  find  it  in  half  an  hour,  we 
should  then  camp  in  the  woods  all  night.     In  pursuance  of  this  re- 
wlution  we  walked  on  a  considerable  time,  when,   almost  in  dc- 
lipair  of  finding  the  right  way,    the  captain  called,    "  there's  the 
Iriver."    This  was  a  most  joyful  sound  to  my  ears,  the  more  so  as  I 

Itlitn  taken  up,  with  great  but  ill-directed   exertions  until  the  pursuit  was  stopped  iiy 
jtlie  continual  influx  of  water  from  springs  in  the  morass. 

'In  the  year  1801,  C.  W.  Peale,  having  purchased  the  bones  already  found,  and 

Iftc  right  of  digging  for  tlie  renuinder,  favoured  by  an  unusually  di-y  season,  con- 

Ittmcted  machinery  to  throw  out  the  water,  employed  a  number  of  hands,  and  after  a- 

Itout  six  weeks'  anxious  labour,  success  so  far  crowned  his  enterprisv,  tliat  he  was  able 

>  put  together  »  skeleton  of  this  great  mon-dkscripi,    perfect  in  every  part  except 

!  cranium." 

Mr.  Pcsle  also  discovered  anotlier  skeleton,  a  few  miles  distant  from  the  altova 
^kich  his  ion,  Uviobraodt  TMde,  carried  to  Europe. 

47 


irhm 


370  TRAVEM   ON 

foiiiul  my  conjecture  correct ;  in  place  of  walking  towards  tb« 
river,  as  we  Kuppuscil,  wo  were  niurcliing  niong  its  l)anks,  ji,  mj,. 
rcclidu  the  very  reverse  of  that  which  led  to  captain  IlamV;  and 
on  reaching  the  right  roati,  we  found  we  wei»«  not  ninnv  yardi 
from  where  we  were  assailed  by  the  (h)g8. 

We  now  travelled  very  quicklV)  hut  it  wos  near  1 1  o'clock  W. 
Cote  we  reached  captain  I  lawes' ;  and  to  compensate  for  our  toil 
wc  expecteil  that  our  frieiidn  would  be  there  before  us,  uiul  huve  a 
comfortable  supper  prepared.  But  we  were  sadly  disap|H)inte(l: 
they  had  not  arrivcil,  and  we  could  perceive  no  trace  of  them  on 
the  river.  Captain  I  lawcs'  family  had  gone  to  bed,  and  it  was 
with  some  didleully  we  rouscnl  them,  ofter  which  we  wcnttoilie 
bank  of  the  river  to  iiail  the  boat;  but  after  bhouting  till  we  were 
lioarse,  we  could  hear  no  return. 

Wc  were  now  in  a  sad  dilemma,  for  wc  supposed  our  friends 
had  fallen  asleep  in  the  boat,  and  must  have  floated  past  the  plan- 
tation. One  of  the  people  in  Mr.  I  lawes'  house  advised  us  to  go 
close  to  the  edge  of  the  river,  and  hnil,  assuring  us  that  our  voire 
could  be  heard  above  three  miles  up  and  down  the  stream.  We 
followed  his  advice,  and  shouted  till  we  made  all  the  wocMUring. 
At  lost  we  hcord  a  very  distant  response  up  the  river.  It  was  our 
friends.  We  hailed  several  times,  and  had  as  many  returns,  but  it 
was  above  on  hour  before  tliey  reached  us.  On  their  arrival  tlicy 
informed  us,  that  they  had  fallen  asleep  in  the  boat,  and  were 
uwoke  by  our  first  shouting,  but  thought  they  must  have  floated 
])ast,  and  were  pulling  up  the  river  as  hard  as  they  could,  whin 
they  heard  our  second  call ;  at  which  time  they  judged  they  coulj  1 
not  be  less  than  three  miles  distant. 

Having  secured  our  boat,  we  went  together  to  the  house,  when  I 
the  captain  and  I  found  wc  had  got  unwelcome  gi'cat  coats ;  wc  were 
literally  covered  from  head  to  foot  with  a  species  of  burr  called 
wood-lice.  When  wi  had  finished  our  supper,  we  learned  that 
there  would  be  some  littfe  diiiiculty  in  procuring  betis,  as  scverul 
lodgers  had  got  before  us.  An  Irish  stranger  hud  got  the  best  bed 
iu  the  house,  by  the  fire-side,  and,  mistaking  me  for  acountr}* 
man,  he  profleretl  me  a  share  of  it.  It  was  too  goml  an  otfer  to  be 
licglected;  so  in  imitation  of  my  humorous  landlord  at  M^iltoii)  1 
tijkl  him,  "  1  was  not  just  acountryman  iieiUier,  butwas  thencxtdoor 
neighbour  to  it,  which  came  to  the  same  thing,"  so  I  would  uc* 
ccpt  of  his  oiler  with  pleasure.     The  two  captains  got  stowed  aw^J 


THE   OHIO    niVKR.  S7  1 

inanotlior  npnrtmcnt,  and,  being  prctlihposcd  hy  the  tatiguei  of 
the  evening,  wc  enjoyed  a  very  comfortable  repose. 

ScpU'inbcr  10.      We  startetl  at  fi  o'clock  in   tbcmornin<;:    llio 
fcatlicr  was  clear  and  cubn ;  the  temiwratnre  ol'  tiie  uir  ()'J°,  of 
ihc  water  68".     The  river  is  here  about  700  yards  wiile,  and  is  a 
boaiitil'ul  stream.     The  country  is  binUleil  on  limestone,  and  ap- 
prs  hcnltiiy,  but  the  settlements  are  very  thin.      When  we  had 
proceeded  eight  miles,  wc  found  the  breeze  so  strong,  that  we  were 
noi  ub!c  tu  make  hcod  way  against  it,  and  we  stopped  at  a  planta- 
tion on  llic  Kentucky  side,  where  wc  saw  a  very  handsome  field  of 
cotton,  called  here  a  cotton  pntch.     Wc  were  now  in  sight  of  a 
Snis!i  Httlcment  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  to  which,  on  ac- 
ruunt  of  the  head  wind,  wc  moved  with  difficulty  ;    but  on  our  ar- 
rival wc  were  very  much  gratified  by  the  appearance  of  this  thriv- 
int;  colony.     We  were  told  that  they  enn<>;rated  to  America  about 
10  years  ago,  and  first  attempted  the  business  of  vine-dressing  on 
the  Kentucky  river  ;  but  not  succeeiling  to  their  wish,  they  maved 
to  this  place,  which  they  iound  to  answer  very  well.     Wo  found 
the  vineyards  in  very  good  order,  and  the  grapes,  whicii  were  at 
full  maturity,  hung  in  most  luxuriant  clusters.     They  were  of  two 
kinds,  claret  nnd  Madeira,  botli  reputed  to  be  of  the  best  quality, 
and  the  sample  which  we  tasted  had  an  excellent  flavour.     The 
wine  consisted  of  two  kinds,  of  course,  claret  and  Madeira.     The 
claret  was  rich  in  quality,    but  too  acid.     It  was,  however,  a  very 
palatable  and  pleasant  beverage  when  diluted  with  water.      The 
Madeira  wine  wc  found  very  unpalatable,  but  we  were  informed 
that  it  wanted  age.     The  person  who  gave  us  our  information  said 
the  colony  consisted  of  about  5G  persons,  who  were  all  vine-dress- 
ers, but  they  had  no  connection  together  in  business.     Each  family 
was  independent  within  itself.     They  have  farms  besides  the  vine- 
yards, and  they  make  all  their  clothing,  so  that  the  produce  of  the 
nine  is  so  much  added  to  their  stock.     Lost  year  they  sold  21^00 
gallons  at  one  dollar  and  a  half  per  gallon  ;    this  year   they  will 
sell  3000;  and  they  are  very  sanguine  that  they  will  be  able  to 
bring  the  business  to  full  maturity.     Their  markets  are,  Cincinna> 
ti,  Frankfort,  Lexington,  and  St.  Louis.     They  represent  the  cli* 
male  as  healthy ;  but  the  weather  is  changeable,  and  the  heat  in 
summer  is  very  great,  being  from  24?  to  26"  of  Reaumur*.     This 
I  summer  it  was  at  one  time  as  high  as  3H";|-  but  this  was  the 


t'ttbrcnheit  86"  to  dO\'>. 


t  I'iilu-.  10; 


372 


THAVKLS   ON 


sum< 


warmest  siinnincr  tlicy  ever  experienced.     The  north-west  winds  arc 
cold;  south,  south •cast«  and  south-west  winds  nre  warm  in 
mer,  and  mild  in  winter ;  and  they  arc  the  most  prevalent. 

Seven  miles  below  this  we  reached  Port  Wiih'am,  at  the  mouth 
of  Kcntucity  river,  where  we  stopped  for  the  night.  Port  William 
is  a  small  place,  consisting  of  about  15  families  only;  and  bein? 
subject  to  fever  and  ague  in  the  full,  it  is  not  likely  to  increase  verv 
fast.  We  were  informed  here,  that  some  of  the  country  people 
still  retain  their  vicious  propensity  for  fighting,  biting,  and  goug* 
ing,  and  that  they  had  lately  introduced  stabbing ;  a  practice  which 
had  been  learned  at  New  Orleans ;  but  the  laws  being  very  severe 
ogainst  these  vices,  the  lawless  were  kept  in  check,  and  the  state 
of  society  wos  in  oving.  The  comet  this  night  was  uncommonly 
vivid.  The  evening  was  very  warm,  the  thermometer  being  76'. 
Kentucky  river  is  here  200  yards  wide. 

Sep.  1 7.  We  set  out  at  5  o'clock  :  the  morning  was  fog/i)' ;  the 
temperature  of  the  air  62°,  of  the  water  71".  Twelve  miles  Ix^ 
low  Kentucky  river  we  came  to  a  town  called  Madison,  recently  laid 
out  in  the  Indiana  territory,  as  the  capital  of  JefTcrson  county.  It 
is  situated  on  a  fertile  bottom,  and  contains  12  families;  3  tavemg 
and  2  stores,  2  blacksmiths,  2  hatters,  1  brickmaker,  ond  1  stone- 
mason. The  back  country  is  rich,  and  settling  very  fast  The 
country  here  appears  rather  level,  but  to  the  southward  it  becomes 
more  elevated.  A  short  time  after  leaving  this  place,  there  was  a 
great  eclipse  of  the  sun,  and  the  water  and  surrounding  scenery  as- 
sumed a  very  dismal  appearance  here  while  it  lasted.  In  the  even- 
ing we  reached  another  new  town  on  the  Indiana  territory,  called 
Bethlehem,  and  here  we  stopped  all  night. 

The  inhabitants  here  were  a  collection  from  different  quarters.— 
Our  accommodations  were  very  indifferent,  but,  to  use  their  own 
phrase,  they  were  new  settlers^  and  we  must  not  expect  ntceties.- 
Thc  town  is  laid  out  on  a  fine  rich  bottom,  three  streets  being  pa- 
rallel to  the  river,  and  three  cross  at  right  angles.  The  township  I 
extends  along  the  river  five  miles,  and  one  and  a  quarter  into  the 
interior  of  the  country.  The  lots  are  half  an  acre  each,  and  sell 
at  present  for  60  dollars. 

September  18. — We  started  this  morning  at  6  o'clock.  The 
river  is  here  three  quarters  of  a  mile  broad,  and  exhibits  a  noble 
appearance.  As  we  proceeded  downward  we  perceived  a  hcnvinefisj 
in  the  atmosphere,  an  evident  sign  that  the  south  winds  waft  ninrsh 


THE   OHIO   RIVBR. 


373 


Juvia  to  this  place,  which  niny  account  for  the  fever  and  ague  thnt 
lometimcs  prevoils  in  the  fall.  We  now  observed  that  the  people 
»ercp«lc  in  colour,  and  had  not  that  rosy  hue  which  they  have 
above  in  Cincinnati ;  but  it  is  to  he  remarked,  that  they  are  mostly 
nrx  settlers^  ond  are  very  mixed.  The  river  widened  out  as  we  pro- 
ceeded to  the  fulls,  above  which  a  good  way,  on  the  Kentucky  side, 
there  are  many  rich  settlements.  Wc  heard  the  sound  of  the  fulls 
when  six  miles  distant,  and  wc  came  to  a  landing  at  Louisville  at  1 1 
o'clock  at  night. 

From  the  observations  made  on  this  fine  river,  in  my  progress, 
the  reader  will  be  able  to  form  a  pretty  accurate  idea  of  it  above 
tlie  falls.  In  my  account  of  Louisville,  I  ^hall  advert  to  the  falls 
themselves,  and  shall  close  this  chapter  by  n  short  account  of  the 
river  below  the  falls,  together  with  a  few  incidental  remurksi  on  some 
particulars  relative  to  the  river  generally. 

The  length  of  the  river,  from  the  falls  to  the  Mississippi,  is,  ac- 
cording to  Mr.  Ellicot,  483  miles.  It  is  795  miles  from  Pittsburg 
to  the  falls,  making  the  whole  length  of  the  Ohio  1188  miles. — 
llic  breadth  below  the  fulls  continues  nearly  the  same  as  above  them, 
from  000  to  700  yards,  till  within  100  miles  of  the  Mississippi, 
when  it  is  1000  yards. 

The  scenery  on  the  river  below  the  falls  is  agreeably  variegated 
with  hills  and  plains  for  about  50  miles,  when  the  country  on  each 
side  becomes  quite  level  for  150  miles.  It  then  swells  out  into  hills, 
which  continue  a  considerable  way,  and  again  subsides  into  level 
plains,  which  continue  to  the  junction  of  the  Ohio  with  the  Missis- 
tippi.  The  point  of  land  at  the  confluence  of  the  rivers,  which  is 
apt  to  excite  so  much  attention  in  the  map,  is  subject  to  be  inun- 
dated by  the  vast  freshets  in  these  mighty  waters,  and  it  is  thence 
marshy  and  uncultivated. 

The  banks  of  the  river  are  as  yet  but  thinly  settled  below  the 
ialls,  and  the  country  is  said  not  to  be  so  healthy  as  above  them ; 
though  the  soil  is  good,  and  it  will  all  be  settled  up  at  no  great  dis- 
tance of  time. 

The  Ohio  receives  the  waters  of  very  considerable  rivers  between 
the  fall  and  the  Mississippi,  viz.  on  the  Kentucky  aide,  Salt  river, 
navigable 50  miles ;  Green  river,  navigable  160  miles;  Cumber- 
land river,  navigable  300  or  400  miles ;  and  Tennessee  river,  na- 
vigable 1200  or  1400  miles;  onthclndiana  side.  Blue  river,  navi- 
le  40  miles ;  and  the  AA^ibash,  navigable  upwards  of  200  miles. 


,t 


lie 


'Ifi' 


I 


374  TRAVELS    ON 

The  navigation  is  easy  to  the  falls,  and,  after  overcominj;  ihat 
•ingle  obstruction,  thence  to  Cincinnati  and  Limestone.  From 
Limestone  to  Wheeling  there  area  number  of  swift  currents  at  ilic 
islands ;  but  they  present  no  material  obstruction,  except  when  the 
water  is  very  low.  From  Wheeling  to  Pittsburg,  the  number  of 
these  swift  currents  are  increased,  and  they  are  more  diiBcult  to 
pass ;  but  the  water  is  very  seldom  in  such  a  state  as  to  be  imnmr 
sable  in  keel-boats.     In  skifra  it  is  passable  at  all  times. 

The  velocity  of  the  current  depends  upon  the  quantity  of  water, 
which  is  exceedingly  various.  When  I  descended,  it  was  in  the 
lowest  state ;  and  I  did  not  calculate  the  velocity  lo  be  more  than 
a  mile  an  hour,  including  the  ripples  and  Letart's  falls.  In  spring 
and  fall,  particularly  in  spring,  it  rises  to  the  astonishing  height  of 
from  40  to  60  feet,  when  the  velocity  is  augmented  in  proportion. 

The  greatest  velocity  seems  not  to  exceed  4  miles  an  hour. 

The  prevailing  winds  here  are  from  the  south  and  south-west, 
and  blow  up  the  river,  often  exhibiting  the  appearance  of  the 
ti'ade*wuids  of  the  West  Indies,  setting  in  about  8  or  9  o'clock  in 
the  morning,  and  dying  away  at  4  or  5  o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 
These  are  of  great  consequence  in  the  navigation  of  the  river  up- 
wards. Judging  from  the  winds  and  current,  when  we  descended, 
I  presumed  that  we  could  have  sailed  from  the  falls  to  Pittsburg 
in  little  more  than  half  the  time  we  were  in  coming  down.  In 
high  water,  boats  have  passed  from  Pittsburg  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Ohio  in  15  days.  Ten  days  is  reckoned  a  quick  passage  to  the 
falls. 

The  principal  articles  of  trade  downwards  are  flour,  iron,  tin 
and  copper-wares,  cabinet-work,  glass,  mill-stones,  grindstones, 
apples,  cyder,  porter,  whiskey,  and  peach-brandy.  Upwards, 
they  are  cotton,  hemp,  hemp  manufactures,  lead,  salt,  and  some- 
times sugar  and  coffee  from  New  Orlean. , 

The  Ohio  abounds  with  a  great  variety  of  fish,  among  which 
«re  catfish,  pike,  percli,  and  sturgeon ;  and  on  the  banks  are 
great  numbers  of  wild  turkies,  geese,  ducks,  pheasants,  partridg- 
es, &C. 

The  banks  of  the  river  are  generally  heavily  timbered.  The 
principal  kinds  of  timber  arc  oak,  hickory,  walnut,  miilberr)-, 
chesnut,  ash,  cherry,  locust,  sugar-tree,  &c.;  and  the  sycamore* 
towering  above  the  whole,  grows  here  to  an  astonishing  size.  I 
noticed  the  remains  of  a  very  large  sycamore  tree  in  the  neigh* 


TUB   OHIO   RIVER. 


375 


tx)urhood  of  Pittsburg,  and  I  saw  most  surprl/ing  specimens  on 
the  banks  of  this  river.  I  did  not  measure  any  of  them;  but  the 
editor  of  the  Pittsburg  Navigator,  to  vihosc  testimony  full  faith 
may  be  given,  mentions  that  he  measured  several  from  10  to  16 
feet  in  diameter.  A  gentleman  from  Marietta  told  him  that  he 
knew  of  one  60  feet  in  circumference,  and  that,  in  the  hollow  of 
another,  he  had  turned  himself  round,  with  a  pole  in  his  hand 
10  feet  long.  Into  the  hollow  of  another  1 3  men  rode  on  horse- 
back, in  June  1806,  and  the  fourteenth  was  only  prevented  by  the 
ikittislmess  of  his  horse. 

The  climate  is  delightful,  and,  except  in  some  places  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  ponds,  which  can  be  easily  drained,  is  perfect- 
ly healthy,  particularly  between  Pittsburg  and  Cincinnati.  The 
fogs  that  rise  on  the  river  are  by  no  means  uncongenial  to  health ; 
indeed,  I  think  they  arc  rather  the  reverse;  being  the  pure  wa- 
ter of  the  Ohio  in  a  state  of  vapour.  Aqueous  vapour  contains  a 
much  larger  proportion  of  vital  air  than  the  atmosphere  ;  and  it  is 
never  too  cold  for  the  lungs,  as  it  rises  only  in  summer,  when  the 
licat  of  the  water  is  greater  than  the  atmosphere.  From  a  number 
of  cx^)eriments,  which  I  made  with  an  accurate  thermometer,  I 
found  that,  in  the  night,  the  temperature  of  the  air  fre- 
quently fell  from  10  to  25  degrees  below 
when  this  was  the  case,  the  vapour  rose, 
the  disproportion  of  temperature  between  the  two  fluids. 
A  frequent  result  in  the  morning,  at  sun-rise,  was,  air  about  60**, 
water  about  71"  of  temperature.  About  7  o'clock,  the  influence 
of  the  sun  begins  to  be  felt,  and  the  fog  to  disperse;  and,  by  the 
time  that  the  air  is  heated  to  the  same  degree  as  the  water,  which 
seldom  exceeds  8  or  9  o'clock,  the  fog  wholly  disappears.  A 
never-failing  result  of  my  observations  was,  that,  when  the  two 
fluids  were  near  the  same  decree  of  temperature,  or  when  the  air 
wag  warmer  than  the  water,  there  was  no  fog. 

From  this  view  of  the  subject  it  will  be  inferred,  that  the  banks 
I  are  congenial  to  all  sorts  of  vegetation ;  and  fruits  flourish  in  an 
eminent  degree.  In  these  fogs,  therefore,  we  see  the  bounty  of 
I'rovidence  displayed  in  the  economy  of  nature.  The  Ohio  runs  in 
» deep  bed,  and  forms  such  a  drain  as  is  calculated  to  deprive 
the  adjoining  banks  of  their  moisture;  but  these  fogs  lend  their 
kindly  assistance  to  supply  the  defect,  and  their  balmy  influence  U 


the    water,   and 
increasing   with 


;!> 


"Til 


376 


TRAVELS   OK 


highly  beneficial  to  the  animal  and  vegetable  creations,  both  of 
which  flourish  here  in  a  very  eminent  degree. 

Thirty  years  ago,  the  whole  country  on  the  banks  of  this  nvcr 
was  almost  an  entire  wilderness.  Twenty  years  ago,  a  friend  of 
mine  descended,  and  could  hardly  get  provisions  by  the  wav. 
When  I  descended,  I  found  its  banks  studded  with  towns  and 
farm-houses,  so  close  that  I  slept  on  shore  every  night.  I  have 
no  doubt  but  that,  in  20  years  more,  the  change  will  surpass  all 
calculation ;  and,  in  process  of  time,  the  banks  of  this  river  ;vi!! 
exhibit  one  continued  village,  from  Pittsburg  to  the  falls ;  the 
settlements  being  thickest,  probably,  between  Limestone  and  Cin- 
cinnati,  which  situation  I  would  at  present  prefer  to  any  on  the 
river. 

What  a  fine  prospect  is  held  out  here  to  the  human  race !  and 
how  delightful  the  contemplation  of  it  to  a  benevolent  mind  !  The 
whole  of  the  banks  of  this  beautiful  river  are  fit  for  cultivation. 
Allowing  it,  therefore,  to  be  divided  into  farms  of  160  acres  each, 
liaving  a  quarter  of  a  mile  on  the  river,  and  a  mile  back  from  it, 
and  each  farm  to  maintain  10  persons,  the  district  from  Fitts* 
burg  to  the  falls  would  contain  upwards  of  60,000  souls;  and 
their  surplus  produce  would  support  double  that  number  of  in- 
dustrious tradesmen  and  their  families,  in  the  various  towns  settled 
upon  it.  To  continue  the  settlements  to  New  Orleans,  the  num- 
ber would  be  nearly  300,000.  And  yet  this  is  but  a  small  portion 
of  the  western  country,  the  rivers  of  which,  emptying  into  the 
Mississippi  alone,  water  more  than  a  millicm  of  square  miles  of 
fertile  land,  capable  of  supporting  200  millions  of  Lihabitants. 
Here,  indeed,  is  room  enough  for  mankind  to  the  thousandth 
and  thousandeth  generation ;  and  blessed  are  they  who,  looking 
up  to  Heavcn,vand  to  their  own  soil  and  industry,  act  in  obe- 
dience to  the  command  of  God,  "  Be  fruitful,  and  multiply,  and 
replenish  the  earth." 


••A  V  *- 


i  i 


rv 


TUB  OHIO   RIVBR. 


CHAPTER  LXXVI. 


377 


LouisviUei—Jeffersonville^—Clarksvillct — Falls  of  the  Ohio. 

Louisville  is  situated  opposite  the  fails  of  the  Ohio,  on 
an  elevation  of  70  feet  above  the  river,  and  extends  along  it  from 
Bear  Grass  creek  nearly  half  a  mile.  Its  breadth  is  about  half 
that  distance.  It  is  regularly  laid  out,  with  streets  crossing  one 
another  at  right  angles  ;  but  the  principal  buildings  are  confined 
to  one  street.  It  consists  of  about  250  houses,  many  of  them 
handsome  brick  buildings,  and  contains  1357  inhabitants,  of 
whom  484  are  slaves.  Baing  a  place  of  great  resort  on  the  river, 
it  has  an  ample  number  of  taverns  and  stores.  Except  the  manu- 
facture of  ropes,  rope-yarn,  and  cotton-bagging,  which  are  car- 
ried on  with  spirit,  there  are  no  other  manufactures  of  importance 
at  Loaisville,  and  the  tradesmen  are  such  as  are  calculated  for  the 
country.  The  price  of  labour  here  is  nearly  the  same  as  at  Cin- 
cinnati. Some  articles  of  provision  are  dearer,  this  being  a  more 
convenient  port  for  shipping  than  any  above  it.  When  I  was 
there,  flour  sold  for  5  dollars  50  cents  per  barrel;  meal  50  cent:! 
per  cwt  Boarding  was  from  1  dollar  25  cents  to  2  dollars  per 
week. 

Louisville,  being  the  principal  port  of  the  westiern  part  of  the 
state  of  Kentucky,  is  a  market  for  the  purchase  of  all  kinds  of 
produce,  and  the  quantity  that  is  annually  shipped  down  the  river 
is  immense.  A'  few  of  the  articles,  with  the  prices  at  the  time 
that  I  was  there,  may  be  noticed.  Flour  and  meal  have  been  quot- 
«d.  Wheat  was  62^  cents  per  bushel;  corn  50;  rye  42;  oats  25; 
hemp  4  dollars  50  cents  per  cwt. ;  tobacco  2  dollars.  Horses  25 
to  100  dollars;  cows  10  to  15  dollars;  sheep  1  dollar  25  cents 
to 5 dollars;  negroes  about  400  dollars;  cotton  bagging  31^  cents 
I  per  yard. 

As  to  the  state  of  society  I  cannot  say  much.  The  place  is 
jcomposcd  of  people  from  all  quarters,  who  are  principally  engag- 
|el  in  commerce ;  and  a  great  number  of  the  traders  on  the  Ohio 
lare  constantly  at  this  place,  whose  example  will  be  nothing  in 
jiavour  of  the  young ;  and  slavery  is  against  society  every  where. 
ifhere  are  several  schools,  but  none  of  them  are  under  public 
[patronage;  and  education  seems  to  be  but  indilFerently  attended 

48 


TRAVELS   ON 


378 

to.  Upon  the  whole,  I  must  say,  that  the  state  of  public  inorali 
admits  of  consirlcrable  unprovcnicnt  here;  but  indeed  I  law 
Louisville  at  a  -^i  ason  when  a  number  of  the  most  rcspecfalle 
people  were  out  of  the  plaec.  Those  with  whom  I  had  busincsi 
were  gentlemen,  and  I  hope  there  arc  a  sufTicieut  number  of  them 
to  check  the  progress  of  gaming  and  drinking,  and  to  teach  the 
young  and  the  thoughtless,  that  mankind,  without  virtue  and  in- 
dustry, cannot  be  happy. 

JcFFERSONViLLE  is  situatcd  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  a 
little  above  Louisville,  and  is  the  capital  of  Clark  county,  in  tl)e 
Indiana  territory.  It  was  laid  out  In  1802  and  now  contains  about 
200  inhabitants,  among  whom  are  some  useful  mechanics.  The 
United  States  have  a  land-office  at  this  place,  but  the  principal 
objects  of  my  inquiry  being  more  to  the  eastward,  I  did  not 
visit  it.  There  is  a  good  landing  at  JelTersonville,  and,  as  the 
best  passage  is  through  what  is  called  the  Indian  Shute,  it  is  pro- 
bnble  that  this  place  will  materially  interfere  with  the  trade  of 
Louisville,  unless  it  be  prevented  by  a  plan  to  be  hereafter  noticed, 
in  which  case,  each  side  will  have  its  own  share  of  the  valuable 
c<mmjerce  of  this  river ;  which,  as  it  is  yearly  encreasing,  cannot 
full  to  convert  both  sides  of  the  Ohio  here  into  great  settlements. 

Clarksville,  a  small  village,  is  situatetl  at  the  foot  of  the  fallj 
on  the  Indiana  side,  as  is  Shippingport,  on  the  Kentucky  side; 
and  both  answer  for  re-shipping  produce  after  vessels  pass  the  fiills. 

The  Falls,  or  rather  rapids  of  tne  Ohio,  are  occasioned  by  a 
ledge  of  rocks,  which  stretches  quite  across  the  river ;  and  through 
which  it  has  forced  a  passage  by  several  channels.  The  descent 
is  only  22  feet  in  the  course  of  two  miles,  and  in  high  water  is 
only  to  be  perceived  in  the  encreased  velocity  of  the  current,  when 
tlie  largest  ves^JcU  pass  over  it  in  safety.  When  I  was  there,  the 
water  was  low,  and  I  observed  three  different  passages,  of  which 
that  on  the  Indiana  side,  called  Indian  Shute,  is  said  to  be  the 
best;  the  middle  one  next  best;  the  one  on  the  Kentucky  side 
cannot  be  passed,  except  when  the  water  is  pretty  full.  But  when 
the  water  is  very  low,  they  are  all  attended  with  danger,  less  or 
more,  of  which  we  saw  an  instance  in  a  boat  that  came  down  the 
liver  along  with  us.  Her  cargo  was  unloaded  at  Louisville,  and 
she  proceeded  down  the  river;  but,  on  taking  the  stream,  she  struck 
on  the  rocks,  and  lay  there  a  wreck,  when  I  came  away.  Good 
pilots  have  been  appointed  to  carry  ves»se!«  ever  the  falls. 


THE   OHIO   RIVBR. 


379 


Od  visiting  this  place,  a  question  immediately  occurs :  Why  is 
a  canal  not  cut  here,  which  would  remove  the  only  obstruction  to 
the  trade  of  this  fine  river  ?  It  appears  that  the  subject  has  been 
long  in  contemplation,  and  a  company  was  incorporated  by  the 
legislature  of  Kentucky  to  carry  it  into  effect.  The  ground  has 
been  surveyed,  and  no  impediment  has  been  suggested  to  the  ex- 
ecution of  the  plan,  except  that  there  is  a  danger  of  the  locks 
being  injured  by  the  freshets  in  the  river,  which,  liowever,  can  be 
guarded  against.  But  sufficient  funds  have  not  yet  been  raised, 
and  it  is  said  that  an  opinion  prevails  here,  that  the  execution  of 
n  canal  would  hurt  the  trade  of  Louisville.  As  to  funds,  there 
siiould  be  no  la^k,  for  this  is  an  object  of  national  utility,  in 
which  the  rich  states  of  Kentucky,  Virginia,  Pennsylvania,  and 
Ohio  are  particularly  interested.  No  very  great  sum  can  be 
wantc',1  to  tut  a  cniuil,  A\ithonly22  fcctiiill,  the  distance  of  two 
miles,  in  a  situation  where  stones  &ro  plenty ;  and  if  it  is  found 
that  individuals  would  not  wish  to  en>bark  their  capital  in  it,  there 
is  no  question  but  the  United  States,  and  tlie  individual  states 
noticed,  would  fill  up  the  subscription,  were  the  matter  judicious- 
ly laid  before  them.  As  to  the  supposition  that  it  would  hurt  the 
trade  of  Louisville,  if  it  exists,  it  is  founded  on  very  narrow  policj-, 
and  is  just  as  correct  an  idea,  as  that  a  good  turnpike  road  leading 
through  a  town,  will  hurt  the  trade  of  that  town.  A  free  com- 
manication  through  a  country  is  favourable  to  every  portion  of 
that  country ;  and  were  a  canal  cut  upon  the  Kentucky  side  here, 
it  would  not  only  counterbalance  the  benefit  arising  to  the  other 
side  from  the  Indian  Shuto,  but  would  be  productive  of  advan- 
tages to  Louisville,  that  at  present  cannot  be  estimated.  The  mills 
alone  that  might  be  erecteil,  and  set  in  motion  by  a  judicious  ap- 
plication of  the  water,  would  be  of  more  intrinsic  value  than  a 
gold  mine. 

The  following  table,  exhibiting  the  commerce  on  the  Ohio,  is 
extracted  from  the  Pittsburg  Navigator,  and  shows  the  import- 
ance of  this  place,  and  the  vast  utility  of  a  canal. 

Commerce  of  the  Ohio  from  November  24th,  1810,  to  Janu- 
ary 24th,  1811. 

In  these  two  months  197  flat-boats,  and  1*  keel-boats  dcscend- 
«1  the  falls  of  the  Ohio,  coi'rying 


Mi;  ^  111 


irJ 


380  TRAVELS    ON    THE   OHIO    BIVBR. 

]  8^611  Us.  flour 
520  do.  pork 
2,873  do.  whiskey 
S,759  do.  apples 
1,085  do.  cyder 
721  do.  do.  royal 
43  do.  do.  witie 
323  do.  peach-brandy 
46  do.  cherry-bounce 
17  do.  viQ^ar 
143  do.  porter 
62  do.  beans 
67  do.  onions 
20  do.  ginseng 
200  groce  bottled  porter 
260  gallons  Seneca  oil 
1,526  lbs.  butter  .♦, 

180  do.  tallow 
64,750  do.  lard 
6,300  do.  beef 


681,900  lbs.  pork  in  bulk 
4,601)  do.  bacon 
59  do.  soap 
300  do.  i'entiiers 
400  do.  hemp 
1,484  do.  thread 
1 54,000  do.  rope-yarn 
20,784  do.  bale-rope 
27,700  yards  bagging 
4,619  do.  tow-cloth 
479  coils  tarred  rope 
500  bushels  oats 
1,700  do.  corn 
216  do.  potatoes 
817  hams  venison 
14,390  tame  fowls 
155  horses 
286  slaves 
18,000  feet  cherry  plank 
279,300  do.  pine  do. 


4,433  do.  cheese 

Also,  a  large  quantity  of  potter's  ware,  ironmongery,  cabinet- 
work, shoes,  boots,  and  saddlery ;  the  amount  of  which  could  not 
be  correctly  ascertained. 

The  country  round  Louisville  is  rich,  but  it  is  not  well  drained 
nor  cultivated,  and  is  consequently  subject  to  fever  and  ague  in 
the  fall.  There  are  a  great  many  ponds  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
the  town ;  at  one  of  them,  I  observed  a  rope- walk  erectiug,  and 
the  people  were  draining  the  pond,  by  sinking  a  deep  well,  and 
letting  the  water  run  into  it,  which  answered  the  purpose  remark- 
ably well.  It  would  appear  hence,  that  the  water  filtrates  to  the 
river  below  ground,  and  perhaps  this  plan  might  be  generally  a- 
dopted.  I  am  persuaded  that  nothing  but  draining  is  wanted  to 
render  Louisville  /juile  healthy,  a^d  one  ^  the  jnpst  agreeable 
situations  on tlie  Oliio  river.  •.;  ^, 


Is  situated  betw 
west  longitude  7° 
miles,  and  its  brea( 
21,960,000  acres. 

The  face  of  the 
Kenery  is  said  to  be 
and  large  prairies. 

The  principal  rivt 

I  tiful  stream,  280  yai 

I  of220  miles.     It  ris< 

Ohio  and  the  Indiai 

where  there  is  a  por 

Miami  of  the  lakes. 

lance  it  runs,  includ: 

A  great  many  tribut; 

White  river,  upward 

which  are  the  largest 

into  the  Wabash ;  ai 

I  Prophet  is  at  present 

The  soil  is  said  to  1 

The  climate  is  dcliji 

|es,  chiefly  confined  tt 

The  settlements  con 

I  made  considerable  pi 

lihe  settlement  of  the  i 

(situated  between  this  t 

The  greater  part  oi 

J^Vhere  tliey  have  been 

mw  made,  it  is  dividi 


INDIANA   TCRBITORY. 


SSi 


CHAPTER  LXXVII. 

Indiana  Territoty, — Illinois  Taritoii/y — North-West  Territory^ — 
Louisiana  Ttrritory^ — Orleans  IhrUofi/y — Mississippi  Terri- 
tan/,  Mississippi  rivin-. 

Being  now  at  the  7ic  plus  ultra  of  my  journey  to  the  westward, 
I  shall  here  take  a  brief  view  of  the  weslern  territories. 

INDIANA  TERRITORY 

Is  situated  between  north  hititiicL'  37"  47'  and  41"  50';  and 
west  longitude  7°  40'  and  10"  45'.  Its  greatest  length  is  284 
miles,  and  its  breadth  155.  Its  area  is  39,000  square  miles;  or, 
21,960,000  acres. 

The  face  of  the  country  is  hilly,  not  mountainous,  and  the 
icenery  is  said  to  be  rich  and  variegated,  abounding  with  plaint 
and  large  prairies. 

The  principal  river  is  the  Wabash,  which  is  said  to  be  a  beau* 
tifui  stream,  280  yards  broad  at  its  outlet,  and  navigable  upwards 
of220  miles.  It  rises  near  the  boundary  line  between  the  state  of 
Ohio  and  the  Indiana  Territory,  about  100  miles  from  lake  Erie, 
where  there  is  a  portage  of  only  eight  miles  between  it  and  the 
Miami  of  the  lakes.  Its  course  is  nearly  south-west,  and  the  dis- 
tance it  runs,  including  its  windings,  is  not  less  than  500  miles. 
A  great  many  tributary  streams  flow  into  it,  the  chief  of  which  is 
White  river,  upwards  of  200  miles  long.  Tippacanoe  river,  near 
which  are  the  largest  settlements  of  Indians  in  tlie  territory,  falU 
into  the  Wabash ;  and  it  ij  near  the  outlet  of  that  river  where  the 
Prophet  is  at  present  collecting  his  forces.  . 

llie  soil  is  said  to  be  generally  rich  and  fertile. 

The  climate  is  delightful,  except  in  the  neighbourhood  of  marsh- 
|c8,  chiefly  confined  to  the  lower  parts  of  the  territory. 

The  settlements  commenced  about  12  or  14  years  ago,  and  havQ 
bade  considerable  progress,  though  they  have  been  retarded  by 
Ithe  settlement  of  the  fertile  and  beautiful  state  of  Ohio,  which  ii 
pitiiatcd  between  this  and  the  old  states. 

The  greater  part  of  the  territory  is  yet  subject  to  Indian  claims. 
jWhere  they  have  been  extinguished,  and  the  white  settlements  hav« 
mu  made,  it  is  divided  into  four  counties,  and  22  towosbipS|  tb& 


^1 


n^ 


j*;l  J^l 


:im 


382 


INDIANA    TKRIIITORY. 


greater  part  of  which  are  on  the  Ohio :  and  some  few  on  ilif 
Wabash  and  White-wctcr  river.  The  inhabitanu  uuiounted,  by 
the  census  of  1800,  to  oG-i-i  ;  they  now  amount  to  24,520,  bcun 
an  increase  of  18,879  in  10  years. 

The  principal  town  is  Vincennes,  on  the  Wabnsh.  It  is  an  old 
settlement,  and  the  inhabitunts  are  mostly  of*  I-'rojicb  exliuciioii ; 
they  amounted,  by  last  census,  to  670.  Tlic  greater  part  of  tbt 
others  have  been  noticed. 

The  agriculture  of  tlie  territory  is  nearly  the  same  as  that  of  the 
state  of  Ohio.  Evei^  kind  of  grain,  grass,  and  fruit  comes  to 
maturity,  and  towards  the  southern  part  of  it  considerable  cropii  ot 
cotton  are  raised,  though  only  for  domestic  use. 

As  the  inhabitants  make  nearly  all  their  own  clothing,  they  liave 
little  external  trade.  What  little  they  have  is  down  the  river  to 
New  Orleans. 

This,  in  common  with  the  other  territories,  is  under  the  immc* 
diate  controul  of  the  government  of  the  United  States.  It  has  a 
certain  form  of  government  prescribed  by  a  special  ordinance  of 
congress,  by  which  the  religious  and  political  rights  of  the  mem- 
bers of  the  community  are  guaranteed.  In  this  ordinance  it  is 
declared,  that  no  person  demeaning  himself  in  n  peaceable  and 
orderly  manner  shall  ever  be  molested  on  accomit  of  his  religion. 
The  inhabitants  shall  always  be  entitled  to  the  benefits  of  the  writ 
of  habeas  corpus,  and  the  trial  by  jury.  All  offences  shall  be  bail- 
able unless  they  are  capital.  Fines  shall  be  moderate.  Religion, 
morality,  and  knowledge,  being  necessary  to  good  government  and 
the  happiness  of  mankind,  schools  and  the  means  of  education  shall 
for  ever  be  encouraged.  Good  faith  shall  always  be  observed  to 
the  Indians,  and  their  lands  shall  never  be  taken  from  them  with- 
out their  consent  The  navigable  waters  leading  into  the  Missis- 
sippi and  St.  Lawrence,  and  tlie  carrying  places  between  the  same, 
shall  be  common  highways,  and  for  ever  free,  as  well  to  the  inliiv- 
bitants  of  the  said  tci*ritorits  as  to  the  citizens  of  the  United  States, 
and  those  of  any  other  states  that  may  be  admitted  into  the 
confederacy,  without  any  tax,  impost,  or  duty  therefore. 
Whenever  any  of  the  territories  shall  have  60,000  free  inhabitants, 
they  shall  be  erected  into  a  state,  to  be  admitted,  by  its  delegate-s 
into  the  congress  of  the  United  States,  on  an  equal  footing  with 
the  original  states.  Slavery  was  originally  prohibited,  but  the 
law  has  been  relaxed  in  favour  of  the  new  settlers  who  have  slaveS) 
and  tliere  are  now  237  slaves  in  this  territory. 


ILLIKOlt    TKHRITOHY. 


S8S 


ILLINOIS  TERRITORY 

Is  situated  between  36o  57' and  41 »  SO'  north  lotitude;  ond  10* 
15'  and  14**  5'  west  longitude.  Its  greutest  length  is  347  miles,  and 
iu  greatest  breadth  206.  Its  area  is  52,000  squnre  miles ;  being 
33,280,000  acres. 

The  face  of  the  country  is  very  much  assimilated  to  that  of  the 
Indiana  Territory ;  but  towards  the  south  the  surface  becomes  very 
level,  and  the  point  of  land  between  the  Mississippi  and  Ohio 
rivers  is  frecjucntly  overflowed.  , 

It  is  washed  on  the  westward  by  the  noble  Mississippi  river,  and 
on  the  south  by  the  Ohio.  In  the  interior  arc  many  considerable 
streams,  nearly  all  emptying  into  the  Mississippi.  Beginning  at 
the  northern  extremity,  the  first  is  Stoney  river,  a  large  navigable 
stream  upwards  or '220  miles  long,  and  having  fertile  banks.  The 
'"lois  is  a  veiy  large  navigable  river,  rising  near  the  south  ond  of 
lal<e  Michigan,  and  pursuing  a  course  nearly  south-west,  it  falls 
into  the  Mississippi,  about  20  miles  above  its  junction  with  the 
Missouri ;  its  whole  length  being  nearly  500  miles.  The  lands  on 
I  the  banks  of  this  river  are  represented  as  being  very  rich,  produc- 
ing grain,  grass,  flax,  hemp,  fruit,  &c.  Kaskaskia  is  a  large  river, 
navigable  for  boats  150  miles  into  the  interior  of  the  country;  its 
whole  length  being  about  200  miles.  The  country  on  its  banks  is 
I  odd  to  be  healthy. 

The  soil  and  climate  are  the  same  as  in  the  Indiana  Territory, 
Incept  in  the  low  part,  which  is  marshy,  and  not  quite  so  healthy. 

Some  settlements  were  made  in  this  territory  by  the  Frerich  at  an 

arly  period,  but  it  is  only  of  late  that  any  material  progress  has 
I  been  made.  The  parts  of  it  that  are  settled  have  been  divided  in- 
Itotwo  counties  and  13  towniahips;  containing  12,282  inhabitants, 
|of  whom  1G8  are  slaves. 

Kaskaskia,  which  contains  622  inhabitants,   is  the  principal 

|town. 

The  remarks  relative  to  agriculture,  produce,  government,  8tc. 
Inade  oa  the  Indiana  Territory,  apply  to  this. 


b      •  ' ' ) 


J.'t*  3-4      V   V  .i;  O'    J  ';;;ir 


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Till    NORTII^WEbT   TEnnirORY. 


THE  NORTH-WEST  TERRITOIIY. 

This  large  tract  has  no  name  on  tlic  maps,  but,  in  conwqMencp 
of  its  position,  I  have  given  it  the  above  designation  hero  It  is 
Iwunded  on  the  west  by  the  Mississippi  river,  on  tlie  east  by  lukc 
Micliigan,  and  the  straits  of  St.  Mary,  on  the  south  by  tlie  two 
territories  just  noticed,  and  on  the  north  by  lake  Superior  nndth? 
l^ritish  possessions.  The  territory  is  about  48G  miles  long,  bv 
417  brood;  and  contains  106,830  square  miles,  or  68,371,200 
ficres.  y}''> 

The  iUcc  of  the  country  is  pretty  similar  to  the  territories  lajt 
noticed.     It  is  elegantly  watered,     llie  Mississippi  washes  it  upon 
the  west,  lake  Michigan  on  the  east,  lake  Superior  upon  the  north 
and  it  has  several  fine  rivers  in  the  interior.     Towards  the  north 
tlicre  are  a  number  of  considerable  streams  which  fall  into  the 
Mississippi,  that  nearly  interlock  with  others  that  fall  into  lake 
Superior.     But  the  largest  river  in  the  territory  is  the  Ouisconsiii, 
which  rises  within  50  miles  of  lake  Superior,  and  after  a  course  of 
400  miles  falls  into  the  Mississippi,  350  miles  above  the  Missouri,  j 
Fox  river  rises  in  the  high  lands  near  the  banks  of  the  last  mention* 
cd  river,  and  runs  nearly  parallel  to  it  for  50  miles,  at  one  place 
approaching  within  3  miles  of  it.     From  thence  it  pursues  a  north- 
east course,    and    passing    through  Winnebago  lake,   falls  into! 
Grcenbay,  a  branch  of  lake  Michigan.     Both  these  rivers  are  na- 1 
vigable,  and  in  a  future  stage  of  population  they  will  probably 
Ibrm  an  excellent  communication  between  the  lakes  and  the  Mis- 

blSMp^.l.         ,  \  ■' 

This  territory  is  said  to  contain  a  great  deal  of  good  soil,  par- 
ticularly towards  the  south,  and  will,  in  process  of  time,  become  I 
the  seat  of  very  valuable  settlements. 

The  climate  is  pleasant  towards  the  south,  being  assimilated  to  I 
that  of  the  western  parts  of  New- York,  but  towards  the  north  it 
becomes  very  cold;    though',  being  within  the  influence  of  the  ae- 
rial current  of  the  Mississippi,  it  Is  not  so  cold  as  the  region  pa- 
rallel to  it  east  of  the  mountams. 

Very  few  settlements  of  white  people  have  yet  been  made  in  this 
territory;  and  the  Indian  claim  to  the  lands  remain,  I  believe,  en- 
tire, throughout  the  whole  district ;  so  that  it  has  not  yet  been  form- 
ed into  a  territorial  government,  and  the  inhabitants  are  not  inclu<i'| 
ed  in  the  census  of  the  United  Statef  • 


LOUISIANA. 


LOUISIANA 


385 


h  an  immenfle  territory,  bounded  by  the  Mississippi  on  the  east ; 
by  the  Spanish  possessions  on  the  west ;  by  Orleans  territory  and 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico  on  the  south,  and  on  the  north  by  the  British 
possessions.  It  extends  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  in.latitude  28'' 
to  48*  north,  and  from  west  longitude  12°  SO'  to  35" ;  being  1494 
miles  long,  from  north  to  south,  and,  though  the  western  boundary 
has  not  been  clearly  ascertained,  the  breadth  may  be  assumed  at  886 
miles.  Its  area  may  be  computed  at  neary  985,250  square  miles, 
or  6300,560,000  acres. 

In  such  an  amazing  extent  of  territory  the  face  of  the  country 
must  be  exceedingly  diversified.  Towards  the  south  the  land  is 
low,  and  in  many  places  overflowed  by  rivers.  To  the  north  it  be- 
comes elevated,  in  many  places  swelling  out  into  large  hills ;  and 
towards  the  west  there  ftre  very  lofty  mountains. 

The  rivers  are  numerous  and  extensive,  and  form  a  remarkable 
feature  in  the  geography  of  this  countr}'.  The  Mississippi  washes 
it  on  the  east,  including  its  windings,  upwards  of  2000  miles,  and 
it  has  in  the  interior  some  of  the  finest  rivers  in  the  world. 

The  principal  river  is  the  Missouri,  which,  indeed,  is  the  largest 
branch  of  the  Mississipi.  The  sources  of  this  river  are  still  un- 
known, although  one  of  its  branches  was  navigated  by  Lewis  and 
Clark  3090  miles,  where  it  is  enclosed  by  very  lofty  mountains. 
Belnw  this  242  miles,  there  is  a  confluence  of  three  different  branch- 
es of  the  head  waters,  in  lat.  45°  23^;  from  thence  the  river  appears 
to  bend  considerably  to  the  northward,  the  great  falls  being  in  lat. 
47"  3',  distant  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  2575  miles.  These  falls 
are  18  miles  long,  and  in  that  distance  descend  362  feet.  The  first 
I  great  pitch  is  98  feet,  the  second  19,  the  third  48,  the  fourth  26,  and 
other  pitches  and  rapids  make  up  the  quantity  above  mentioned. 
Id  lat.  47°  24',  the  river  forms  a  junction  with  another  nearly  as 
large,  and  it  is  here  372  yards  broad.  In  lat.  47  ,  2270  miles  from 
its  outlet,  it  is  clear  and  beautiful,  and  300  yards  wide.  At  1888 
miles  from  its  outlet  it  is  527  yards  wide,  its  current  deep,  rapid, 
and  full  of  sand  burs.  At  1610  miles  a  fort  has  been  erecti^d,  call- 
ed Fort  Mandan,  in  lat.  47°  21';  and  here  the  winters  are  repre- 
sented as  being  very  cold.  From  thence  to  the  mouth  the  naviga. 
tion  is  very  good,  the  current  beuig  deep  and  rapid,  and  the  water 
'  -  49 


3SG 


LOUISIANA. 


nuidily.  hn  hrondtli  is  vnriotis,  from  300  to  800  ytnls;  nnilultln 
outlet  ill  38°  4.')'  it  is  nbout  700  yards  broad.  In  itn  prognss  ii  j, 
fliiginentcd  by  a  vast  number  of  streams,  tlic  principal  of  which  are 
Yellow  Stone,  Little  Missouri,  Piatt,  Kansas,  and  Osage. 

The  Moin,  a  very  considerable  river,  falls  into  tlio  Mississippi 
about  200  miles  above  the  Missouri,  and  below  the  falU  of  St.  An. 
lliony,  in  lat.  tj",  St.  Peter's*  river,  a  very  large  stream,  fails  iiuo 
the  Mississippi.  ' 

St.  Francis  rises  near  St.  Louis  nnd  running  nearly  a  south 
course,  upwards  of  350  miles,  falls  into  the  Mississippi,  in  lat.  44' 
45',  by  a  channel  200  yards  broad.  It  is  said  to  be  navigable  200 
miles. 

Arkansas  is  a  very  large  river,  rising  in  Mexico,  and  running  a 
south-east  course,  falls  into  the  Mississippi,  in  lat.  33°  45';  being 
navigable  300  or  400  miles. 

Red  river,  and  Black  river  are  two  very  large  streams,  rising  be- 
tween the  lat.  of  35  and  86®,  about  100  miles  apart ;  and  running 
nearly  600  miles,  they  form  a  junction  about  23  miles  from  the  Mis- 
sissippi, which  they  enter  in  lat.  31°  5',  1014  miles  below  the 
Missouri.  '     •      .'  •     .  ,    ,  .  .         :. 

There  are  n  great  number  of  rivers  to  the  westward,  falling  into 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico ;  but  owing  to  the  country  being  little  known, 
they  do  not  seem  to  have  excited  much  interest.  One  of  flic  prin- 
cipal is  the  Sabine,  the  western  boundary  of  th6  Orleans  territory. 

The  territory  is  said  to  abound  with  valuable  minerals,  of  every 
description ;  but  the  branch  that  seems  to  have  excited  greatest  at- 
tention is  the  lead  mines,  near  St.  Genevieve,  which  yield  annu- 
ally a  vast  quantity  of  that  useful  commodity.  *'  '  ' 

The  soil  and  climate  of  Louisiana  are  said  to  be  similar  in  every 
respect  to  that  of  the  countries  lying  parallel  to  it  east  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi. Near  that  river  the  soil  is  rich,  and  the  climate  temperate; 
but  it  becomes  moi*e  cold  to  the  westward,  and  towards  the  moun- 
tains the  cold  is  represented  as  being  very  severe ;  the  soil  being 
sterile,  and  the  brooks  in  many  places  strongly  impregnated  with  salt- 

This  1^  ountry  was  discoveretl  by  Sebastiati  Cabot,  in  1497.  In 
1512,  John  Pontib^'de  Leon,  a  Spaniard,  arrived  on  the  coast,  and 
attempted  &  settlement.  In  1684,  Mons.  de  la  Sale  discovered  the 
mouth  of  the  Missifeippi,  and  built  Fort  Lewis;  but  he  being  as- 
sassinaledj  it  was  aibftndoncd  till  1698,  when  cajitain  Ibferville  pene- 
trated up  the  Mississippi,  and  having  planted  a  few  settlers,  called 


LOUISIANA. 


387 


the  country  Louisiana.  About  iT'iO,  M.  dc  la  Suour  sailed  up  the 
Mi^sisiiippi  760  leagues.  About  this  tintf  John  Law,  a  Scotuman, 
proii'Ctal  the  fumous  Mississippi  scluino,  which  Dubblu burst  in  the 
year  1731,  after  involving  nmn ,  '-fspoctublu  merchant-  in  nn'n.  In 
1762  the  riench  government  cedul  Louisiana  arid  the  Isle  of  (h- 
Icansto  Spain.  In  1800-1801  Spain  rrdeil  the  country  to  the 
French  government,  who,  by  the  treaty  of  April  JO,  1803,  ceded 
it  to  the  United  States,  and  they  took  possession  of  it  on  the  'JOth 
of  December  following. 

The  territory  of  Louisiana,  as  ceded,  has"  been  divided  into  two 
territorial  governmcntu,  Louisiana  and  Orleans.  Louisiana  is  di- 
viilwl  into  the  following  districts :  St.  Charles,  St.  Louis,  St.  Gene- 
vieve, cape  Gerardeau,  New  Madrid,  Ilopeficld,  and  St.  Francis, 
and  the  bcUlements  on  the  Arkansas.  By  the  last  census  it  contain- 
ed 2(),84'5  inhabitants,  of  whom  3,011  arc  slaves. 

The  territory  of  Orleans  being  more  favourably  situated  for  trade, 
and  a  disposal  of  their  produce,  this  territory  has  as  yet  made  no 
very  rapid  progress  in  improvements.  Tlic  chief  settlements  are 
near  the  Missouri,  and  along  the  Mississippi  to  New  Madrid ; 
with  some  on  the  Arkansas  and  St.  Francis. 

St.  Louis  is  the  capital,  and  contains  1500  inhabitants.  It  is  si- 
tuated on  the  Mississippi,  in  hit.  38°  38',  in  a  fine  healthy  country, 
on  a  bed  of  limestone,  having  rich  settlements  around  it.  It  is  in- 
creasing in  population  and  wealth;  and  several  manufactories  have 
been  recently  established. 

St.  Charles,  a  handsome  village,  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Missouri,  18  miles  from  St.  Louis,  by  an  excellent  road,  lead- 
in;;  through  a  rich  country.  In  1807,  it  contained  500  inhabitants, 
chieflyFrench ;  but  many  Americans  have  lately  settled  in  it.  St.  Ge- 
nevieve contains  about  1200  inhabitants,  and  is  increasing  in  popu- 
lation and  wealth  ;  having  about  20  stores,  and  being  the  depositu 
ofthc  produce  of  the  lead  mines.  . 

Geinrdeau  is  a  small  town,  situated  on  an  eminence  on  the  right 
sideoftlie  Mississippi,  and  contains  from  30  to  10  houses  only  ;  but 
It  has  a  fine  back  country,  and  is  improving.  There  is  a  post  road 
from  this  place  to  Fort  Massac  and  the  mouth  of  the  Cumberland 
river. 

New  Madrid  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  Mississippi;  but  con- 
tains a  few  houses  only. 

The  agriculture  and  produce  of  Upper  Louisiana  are  similar  to 


t^& 


388  ORLEANS  TERRITORY. 

those  of  the  territories  opposite  to  it.  In  Lower  Louisiana,  in  addi- 
tion to  grain,  vegetables,  and  i  uit,  they  raise  cotton  in  great  abun* 
dance,  and  in  some  places  sugar  and  indigo. 

The  government  is  the  same  as  the  territories  east  of  the  Missis. 
BJppi ;  but  to  accommodate  the  original  settlers,  who  had  slaves, 
slavery  is  continued  on  the  same  principle  as  in  the  southern  states, 

ORLEANS  TERRITORY 

Comprehends  that  part  of  Louisiana  which  extends  from  33« 
north  latitude  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico ;  and  from  West  Florida  to 
the  Sabine  river,  which  falls  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  in  west  lon- 
gitude 17**.  Its  extreme  length  from  east  to  west  is  300  miles,  and 
breadth  from  north  to  south  24  L  Its  area  is  41,000  square  miles, 
containing  26,240,000  acres. 

This  territory  is  level  towards  the  Gulf  of  Mexico ;  but  towards 
the  north  it  becomes  more  elevated.  It  is  remarkably  well  watered, 
having  the  Mississippi  to  the  east,  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  south; 
and  in  the  interior  are  many  fine  rivers,  the  principal  of  which,  the 
Red  river  and  Sabine,  have  been  already  noticed ;  but  the  Mexi- 
cano  and  Tache  are  both  considerable  streams,  falling  into  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico. 

Tbe  soil  is  represented  to  be  rich  and  fertile,  producing  in  abun- 
dance every  sort  of  grain,  grass,  fruit,  and  vegetables ;  besides  in* 
digo,  cotton,  and  sugar.  The  culture  of  the  last  has  rapidly  in- 
creased since  the  stoppage  of  the  foreign  trade,  and  will,  in  all  pro- 
bability, soon  be  equal  to  the  supply  of  the  whole  United  States. 

The  climate  is  nearly  assimilated  to  that  of  the  low  parts  of  South 
Carolina  and  Georgia,  noticed,  paj^e  201 :  but  it  is  to  be  obsened 
that  the  trade  winds  being  turned  to  the  north  (see  page  32,)  and 
blowing  over  this  district  through  its  whole  extent,  they  fan  and 
coolthe  air,  and  render  the  climateboth  more  agreeable  andmoreheal- 
thy  than  that  of  the  parallel  latitudes  to  the  eastward  of  the  mountains. 

The  history  of  the  early  settlement  of  this  district  is  included  in 
that  of  Louisiana.  The  territory  is  now  divided  into  12  counties, 
and  by  last  census  contains  76j556  inhabitimts,  of  whom  34,660 
are  slaves,  and  7,S8S  free  people  of  colour.* 

*  In  1812,  this  terr..,ry  was  admitted  into  the  union,  an  18th  state,  by  the  nam*  '^  | 
Louisiana,  and  will  send  two  senaton  and  one  rcpiesentative  to  congi'css. 


ORISAMS  TERRITORY.  389 

Since  this  territory  was  ceded  to  the  United  States,  and  they 
have  acquired  the  free  navigation  of  the  Mississippi  and  its  waters, 
jocicty  has  made  rapid  progress  here.  The  banks  of  the  Missis- 
sippi between  New  Orleans  and  Natches  are  represented  as  being 
in  a  high  state  of  cultivation,  and  the  produce  is  most  abundant. 

New  Orleans  is  the  capital,  and  contains  1 7,242  inhabitants* 
including  5,796  slaves,  and  4,950  free  negroes.  It  is  situated  in 
latitude  29°  57',  and  it  is  regularly  laid  out,  the  streets  crossing 
one  another  at  right  angles ;  but  they  are  narrow,  being  generally 
not  more  than  40  feet  in  breadth.  The  houses  in  the  principal 
streets  are  built  of  brick,  but  the  others  mostly  of  wood.  The 
middle  of  the  streets  are  unpaved,  and,  in  wet  weather,  are  very 
muddy ;  but  the  town  is  well  supplied  with  good  side  pavements. 
The  city  extends  nearly  a  mile  along  the  river,  and  is  about  half  a 
mile  broad.  There  is  a  square  in  the  centre,  which  is  covered 
«ith  grass,  and  contains  the  cathedral  and  town 'house.  There  is 
smarket-hoase  of  considerable  extent,  and  it  is  well  supplied  with 
v^tables,  but  the  meat  and  fish  are  said  to  be  poor. 

The  city  lies  below  the  surface  of  the  river,  on  which  there  is 
an  embankment,  called  a  lev^e  to  defend  it  and  the  adjacent  coun- 
try from  being  overhowed.  This  levee,  is  of  great  extent,  run- 
ning more  than  130  miles  up  the  country,  and  on  the  top  of  it 
there  is  an  excellent  dry  road. 

A  plan  has  lately  been  agreed  upon  for  supplying  the  city  with 
water  from  the  Mississippi,  which  will  add  much  to  the  comfort 
and  health  of  the  inhabitants. 

A  winter  residence  in  this  city  is  said  to  be  very  pleasant ;  but 
it  is  generally  sickly  in  summer,  and  many  of  the  people  leave  it 
for  two  or  three  months.  As  it  is,  however,  the  great  mart  for 
receiving  the  commodities  which  are  shipped  from  the  Mississppi 
river,  it  will  always  continue  to  be  a  place  of  great  trade,  and 
will  increase,  probably,  to  a  greater  extent  than  any  sea-port  in 
America. 

Except  domestic  manufactures,  which  do  not  appear  to  be  car* 
tied  on  to  a  great  extent,  there  are  no  material  manufactures  here, 
and  in  all  probability  the  trade  of  this  place  will  continue  for  a 
long  time  to  be  an  object  of  solicitude  to  the  manufacturing  dis- 
tricts; particularly  Pittsburg,  and  Lexington,  in  Kentucky;  and, 
on  the  other  hand,  from  the  increase  of  cotton  and  sugar,  a  great 
twdewiU  always  be  supported  between  New  Orleans  and  the  cities 


im. 


*(  m 


390 


MISSISSIPPI   TERRITORY. 


on  the  Atlantic.  The  direct  exports  of  1810  amounted  to  1,8!)7,5ot 
dollars ;  but  it  is  to  be  observed,  that  the  greatest  part  of  the  ex- 
ports are  by  the  way  of  the  eastern  states,  no  part  of  whicli  is  en- 
tered at  the  custom-house.  "     '  "     "'    '   ' 

The  people  are  represented  as  being  gay  and  lively ;  their  man- 
ners being  pretty  much  assimilated  to  those  of  the  French.  The 
government  is  similar  to  that  of  the  ptlier  territories  of  the  United 
States,  and  guarantees  religious  and  political  freedom. 

'  MISSISSIPPI  TERRITORY 

Is  bounded  on  the  west  by  the  Mississippi,  on  the  east  by 
Georgia,  on  the  north  by  Tennessee,  and  on  the  soutii  by  Orleans  | 
Territory  and  Florida.  It  is  situated  between  north  latitude  31° 
and  35",  and  west  longitude  8°  and  14?"  30';  being  in  length, 
from  east  to  west,  390  miles,  and  in  breadtli  278.  Its  area  is  I 
abput  88,680  square  miles,  or  56,755,200  acres. 
>  The  face  of  the  country  is  somewhat  similar  to  those  parts  of  I 
Orleans  Territory  and  Louisiana  Territory  that  arc  opposite  to  it. 
Towards  the  south  it  is  pretty  level ;  but  it  becomes  more  elevat- 
ed to  the  northward;  and  in  the  north-east  there  are  some  spurs  of  | 
the  Allegany  mountains. 

It  is  remarkably  wtll  watered  with  rivers'and  small  streams.  The  I 
Mississippi,  including  its  windings,  waters  it  on  the  west  nearljl 
600  miles,  and  receives  several  rivers,  particularly  the  Yazoo  andj 
Black  rivers ;  the  former  of  which  is  rendered  remarkable  by  the  I 
speculation  in  the  public  lands  on  its  banks,  known  by  the  nantel 
of  the  Yazoo  speculation.     The  Tennessee  river  runs  through  the  I 
northern  part  of  tliis  territory  by  a  remarkable  bend ;  and  at  the! 
Muscle  shoals,  on  that  river,  canals  have  been  projected  to  thel 
Tvimbekby,  a  large  navigable  stream  that  flows  into  the  Gulf  oti 
l^eKico,  througk  Mobile  bay.     The  Alabama,  which  is  compose 
of  several  large  streams  rising  in  Georgia,,  forms  a  junction  vitl 
this  river.     The  other  principal  streams  are   Pearl  river,  Pa 
goula,  Coneci|h,  and  Chatahouchy,  which   last  is  the  boundarvJ 
for  a  considerable  way,  between  this  territory  and  Georgia.    Th 
greater  part  of  these  rivers  are  navigable,  and  fall  into  the  Gu 
of  Mexico,  through  Florida ;  which  circumstance  shows  of  bo« 
much  importance  it  is  to  the  safety  ^nd  prosperity  of  this  portioij 
of  the  United  States  to  have  possession  of  the  Floridas.    We 
Florida,  as  far  as  Perdido  river,  was  ceded  to  the  United  Sti 


MISSISSIPPI   TKltRITORY. 


391 


gloDg  with  Louisiana,  and,  judging  from  recent  transactions,  we 
may  conclude  that  they  will  soon  be  in  possession  of  the  whole, 
which  will  be  productive  of  a  lusting  benefit,  both  to  the  inhabi- 
tants of  Florida  and  the  United  States.  '  '' 

There  is  in  this  territory  a  great  diversity  of  soil ;  but  it  con- 
tains much  excellent  land  in  the  lower  part,  principally  on  the 
wter  courses.  In  the  northern  part,  it  extends  throughout  the 
territory.  The  principal  timber  in  the  lower  parts  is  pine ;  in  the 
opper  parts,  oak,  hickory,  walnut,  cherry,  and  poplar. 

The  climate  is  represented  as  "highly  favourable ;  the  winters 
being  mild,  and  the  summers  not  materially  hotter  than  several 
d^cs  farther  to  the  northward.  The  heat  is  seldom  oppressive 
*ithia  doors,  and  the  nights  are  said  to  be  more  comfortable  than 
in  Virginia.  There  is  but  little  snow  or  ice ;  so  that  the  cattle 
I  graze  in  the  fields  all  winter,  a  circumstance  highly  favourable  to 
thehusbaudman.  The  following  extracts  are  from  a  register  kept 
1  near  Fort  Stoddart.  ,     . 

Warmest.        Coldest. 


1807.  April "fi, 

Ther.  52° 

15, 

82 

710 

May   2, 

;        66 

61 

17, 

.        90 

80 

June   6, 

90 

1    ^'■'   I 

82 

28, 

"^  '       82 

69 

July  10, 

-"          94 

78 

29, 

' ;:      .  74 

65 

Mean  heat  in 

July,  86». 

Aug.    2, 

'I'her.  88° 

Sept.    5, 

95 

80° 

8» 

74 

Mean  heat  in  September,  84  <> 
1808.    Jan.  8,         Ther.  55° 
9,  61 

21,        "  60  56* 


Feb.  8,       . ;          56 

:       43         .          •. 

62          ,                 . 

March  21,      '              63 

55         .:    •;   * 

"28,      '              86 

,-      -   J    >  =  -  -  .  ,!j  ■,    -1   ',  '-i 

The  days  selected  are  the  warmest  and  coldest  in  the  respective 

nonths. 

^^ 


S92  MISSISSIPPI   TEARITOHT. 

April    2,  Trees  were  in  leafi  •  • 

12,  Peas  in  pod. 

May    2,  Green  peas  at  table.     Strawberries  ripe* 
16f  Mulberries  ripe. 

June  1 9,  Roasting  ears  (of  corn)  at  table.  . 

Lettuce  and  cabbage  stand  well  all  winter. 

This  extensive  territory  was  originally  claimed  by  the  state  of 
Georgia,  and.  in  1795,  the  legislature  of  that  state  sold  22,000,000 
of  acres  of  lane!  in  it  for  500,000  dollars ;  but  the  act  authorizing 
the  sale  was  objected  to  by  a  succeeding  legislature.  The  sale  was 
declared  null  and  void,  and  the  records  relative  to  it  were  pub- 
licly burnt.  It  was  claimed  by  the  United  States,  and,  in  1800, 
«rected  into  a  territory.  The  inhabitants  have  lately  petitioned  to 
be  admitted  into  the  union  as  a  state ;  but  the  measure  has  not 
yet  been  decided  on  by  congress. 

The  territory  is  at  present  divided  into  1 1  counties  and  2  town?, 
and  contains  40,352  inhabitants,  of  whom  17,088  are  slaves,  and 
240  free  negroes.  The  Indian  population  is  about  40,000  more; 
and  some  of  the  tribes,  it  is  said,  look  forward  to  be  admitted  into 
the  union  as  citizens  of  the  United  States. 

The  principal  settlements  in  this  territory  are  along  the  Missis- 
sippi river.  Natches  is  the  capital,  and  contains  1511  iniiabi- 
tants.  Adams  county  in  this  district  contains  5,030  inhabitants, 
Wilkinson  county  5,068,  and  Madison  county  4,699 ;  but  the  i 
greater  part  of  the  settlers  are  scattered  throughout  the  land,  and 
it  is  said  that  few  of  the  plantations  exhibit  any  thing  like  neatness, 
being  even  without  fences  to  protect  the  crops. 

The  principal  produce  is  Indian  corn  and  cotton.     Some  wheat,  I 
rye,  and  oats  are  raised      Rice  is  cultivated  in  the  river  swamps 
and  indigo  and  sugar-cane  are  cultivated  to  a  considerable  extent. 

The  principal  manufactures  are  household  stufS,  principally  of| 
cotton. 

The  trade  to  the  westward  is  through  the  medium  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi. To  the  eastward,  the  surplus  produce,  consisting  prin- 
cipally of  corn,  beef,  and  pork,  finds  a  market  in  Mobile  and! 
Fensacola.  Vessels  drawing  13  or  14  feet  of  water  can  go  easier 
to  Fort  Stoddart  than  to  New  Orleans;  and  it  is  said  there  are 
no  material  obstructions  in  the  Tumbekby  rivei*  40  miles  abovel 
Fort  Stoddart.  . 


MISSISSIPPI    KIVER. 


393 


In  the  settlements  contiguous  to  the  Mississippi,  society  has 
le considerable  progress;  but,  towards  the  Mobile,  they  are 
so  scattered,  that  they  have  no  fixed  character.  There  arc  no 
colWes,  no  permanent  schools,  no  regular  places  of  worship,  no 
literary  institutions,  no  towns,  no  good  houses,  and  but  few  coiu- 
fortible  ones.  There  are  few  mechanics,  and  scarcely  any  pro- 
fessional men,  except  lawyers.* 

I  shall  conclude  this  chapter  with  a  short  account  of  the 

MISSISSIPPI  RIVER. 

This  noble  river,  which  has  been  emphatically  termed  the  Nile 
of  America,  though  it  is  in  fact  much  larger  than  that  river,  rises 
in  a  lake,  in  latitude  48°  16',  and  being  joined  by  a  great  variety 
of  small  streams,  it  passes  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  29  feet  in  height, 
in  latitude  45°,  where  it  is  little  more  than  100  yards  wide.  From 
thence  it  runs  a  course  east  of  south,  and    receives  one  consider- 
able river  from  the  west,  and  two  from  the  east ;  and,  in  latitude 
♦2°,  it  receives  t'.ie  Ouisconsin,  by  which  there  is  a  communica- 
tion with  lake  Michigan.  In  latitude  39°,  it  receives  the  important 
Illinois  river  from   the  east,  and  a  few  miles  below,  the  Missouri 
from  the  west,  being  the  main  branch,   and  by  far  the  longest, 
having  been  navigated  to  the  westward  upwards  of  3000  miles.  The 
waters  above  this  are  clear,  but  the  Missouri   is  a  muddy  stream, 
and  imparts  its  hue  to  the  Mississippi.     In  latitude  37°,  it  forms  a 
junction  with  the  Ohio,  which  may  be  called  the  great  eastern  branch, 
as  the  Missouri  is  the  western.     There  is  now  a  vast  collection  of 
waters,  and  it  rolls  along  with  a  majestic  sweep,  by  a  serpentine 
course,  through  a  very  variegated  country,  but,  upon  the  whole, 
rather  level;  and  after  receiving  in  its  progress  the   Yazoo  and 
Black  river  from  the  east,  and  the  St.  Francis,  Arkansas,  and 
Red  river  from  the  west,  besides  innumerable  small  streams,  it 
falls  into  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  118  miles  below  New  Orleans;    its 
whole  length  being  upwards  of  2500  milej. 

The  breadth  of  the  river  is  varioui?.  At  its  junction  with  the 
Missouri,  it  is  about  half  a  mile,  at  the  Ohio  three-fourths,  ut 
Natches  one  mile,  at  New  Orleans  a  mile  and  hall^  at  its  outlet 
two  miles ;  but  it  varies  considerably  between  these  points. 

The  quantify  of  water  that  is  discharged  by  this  mighty  river  is 
immense.    From  the  Missouri  to  the  Ohio,  it  is  about  IJ  fcec 

-■    '     -     - .;-  ■    -  ,         >  ._    _ 

•   Pittsburg  Navigator.  i  '  i 

50 


*i 


k  m\ 


**«»;; 


394  MISSISSIPPI    RIVER. 

deep;  from  the  Ohio  to  New  Oilcans  30  to  60;  and  from  thence 
to  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  30  to  40.  The  current  is  from  three  and 
a  half  to  four  miles  an  hour,  and  when  high  somewhat  greater. 
Assuming  ns  a  data,  that  the  current  is  four  miles  an  hour  at  ib 
outlet,  the  breadth  two  miles,  and  the  depth  40  feet,  a  calculation 
nmy  be  made  of  the  water  discharged.  It  amounts  to  the  as- 
tonishing  cjtiantity  of  94  millions  of  gallons  per  second,  or  5640 
millions  per  minute. 

The  banks  of  the  river  above  the  Ohio,  are  pretty  similar  to 
those  of  that  river,  lielow  that,  the  country  becomes  more  level 
and  a  considerable  part  of  the  way  the  river  runs  on  a  ridtre,  ferni- 
cd  by  the  eaith  carried  down  by  the  annual  inundation.  At  some 
places  it  overflows  its  banks,  during  the  freshets,  to  the  amazing 
extent  of  50  miles,  principally  to  the  westward  ;  and  part  of  thij 
water  never  returns,  but  goes  to  the  ocean  by  other  channels. 
From  New  Orleans  to  Natches,  these  overflowings  are  prevented 
by  a  bank  colled  a  levee,  and  in  all  this  distance  the  banks  are  well 
cultivated.  It  is  probable  that  this  system  will  be  adopted  through- 
out  the  low  country,  in  which  case  the  very  rich  country  on  \u 
banks  will  support  a  vast  population,  and  raise  an  immense  quan- 
tily  of  produce. 

The  trade  of  this  river  is  already  very  great,  but  it  is  small  com> 
pared  to  what  it  will  be.  The  settlement  of  a  country  so  rich,  and 
80  well  supplied  with  navigable  rivers,  under  a  form  of  government 
which  guarantees  equal  rights  to  all,  must  bring  forward  surplus 
produce  to  a  great  extent ;  and  as  it  must  all  find  an  outlet  by  this 
river,  it  will  unquestionably  constitute  it  the  greatest  commercial 
river,  and  New  Orleans  one  of  the  greatest  depots,  in  the  universe. 
This  view  suggests,  even  at  this  early  period,  of  what  importance 
it  is  to  endeavour,  by  every  means,  to  clear  the  river  of  all  olistruc- 
tions,  and  to  render  the  gi-eat  city  of  New  Orleans  as  healthy  and 
as  comfortable  as  circumstances  will  admit.* 


•  Tbe  obstacles  to  the  navigation  of  this  river  are  lessening  every  year.  The  item- 
boat,  whivh  1  noticed  at  Pittsburg,  bar.  b.en iitartcd  between  New  <"htv;-  snnd  Nateh«,| 
ond  is  found  to  ansver  tlic  purpose  remarkably  well.  Little  doubt  remains,  buttbitj 
tlie  line  of  stcain-Uo;its  will  be  established  to  Pittsburg,  and  probably  another  to  St. 
Louis ;  in  which  case  llic"!e  rivers  will  be  all  navigable  upwards  with  a  degree  of  fcdl- 
ity,  tliat  wiH  ensuro  a  return  without  a  tedious  passage  by  the  Atlantic  ports,  llic  plM 
noticed  for  atipplylng  New  Orleans  with  water,  will  be  a  most  important  improvement 
to  the  city,  and,  as  the  country  settles  up,  it  will  bp  all  drained,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  J 
become  ^uite  healthy. 


MISSISSIPPI   RIVBR.'  395 

I  shall  close  this  account  of  one  of  the  noblest  rivers  in  the  world, 
i)y  the  following  pertinent  remarks  from  the  Pittsburg  Navigator. 

<'  What  a  reverse  in  ihe  situation  of  a  trader,  since  the  banks 
of  the  Mississippi  have  become  the  soil  of  the  United  States ; 
since  the  governor  of  a  republicjm  peoj)le  has  been  happily  placed 
in  the  chair  of,  not  one,  but  many  tyrants  ;  since,  in  tact,  he  traf- 
fics with  those  to  whom  he  looks  up  as  fricndis,  instead  of  thosp 
wliose  every  glance  was  dire  jealousy  and  suspicion — whose  de- 
meanor, bombastic  pride  and  ostentation — whose  pursuit  and  plan 
in  trade  was  one  continued  system  of  bribery,  fraud,  and  chican- 
ery, from  the  first  authority  in  the  old,  to  the  last  in  this  their  fo- 
reign government  !*  What  a  reverse  is  the  situation  of  you,  western 
Americans  !  What  a  conquest  gained  I — A  conquest  e(]ual  to  a  se- 
cond revolution — a  vast  and  almost  unlimited  territory  acquired 
without  the  loss  of  a  drop  of  blood.  Happy  Columbians  I  prosperity 
fniiles — must  smile — on  all  governments  equally  mild  and  just  with 


I" 


vours  ! 


*  The  folluwing  anecdote,  copied  from  Schultz't  Travels,  afibrds  some  idea  of  the 
I  ilumeless  corruption  and  villany  of  the  Spanish  government. 

'At  the  lower  end  of  the  town  of  St  Genevieve,  is  still  to  be  seen  the  remains  of  a 
Spinish  fort,  which,  being  erected  on  an  emineiice,  orresponded  with  that  of  Kaskas* 
lilt  by  signals.  I  was  informed  of  a  very  singular  transaction  relative  to  the  building 
lofthisforU 

'  It  leems,  after  the  fort  was  completed,  the  commandant  had  to  wait  upon  the 

I  pTUtor  of  the  province  to  present  his  charges.     They  were   accordingly  presented, 

ud  amounted  to  421  dollars.     The  governor,  after  examining  the  account,  returned  it 

to  the  commandant,  informing  him  there  was  some  mistake.     The  commandant  retired 

I  iid  examined  it  again,  but,  finding  it  entirely  correct,  presented  it  once  more.     Tim 

l{OTenior,  on  looking  it  over,  imformed  hiaa  it  was  still  incorrect,  -^nd  advised  him  to 

I  consult  with  some  friend,  as  he  had  omitted  a  figure  or  two.     The  commandant  then 

lolltd  upon  a  friend  to  look  over  his  accounts  with  him,  who  no  sooner  saw  the  amount, 

Itlun  he  burst  into  a  loud  laugh,  and  taking  up  a  pen  added  a  O  to  the  sura  already 

pted.    The  commandant  presented  bis  accounU  the  third  time,  when  his  excellency 

Inplied  it  was  not  quite  right  yet.     The  commandant  was  amazed !  but  what  was  his 

IwuniNliment,  when  he  related  the  affair  to  his  fncud,  to  see  him  add  another  0  to  the 

tsum,  making  it  42,100  insUad  of  421  !  On  presenting  tlie  account  the  fourth  time  it 

*u graciously  received  ;  and  for  the  discharge  of  the  whole  a  very  small  part  was  paid 

"the  commandant. 


396 


TRAVELS    IN 


J 


CHAPTER  LXXVIII. 


Leave  Lauisvilley — Middletottt — Shelbx/ville^ — FranJ^orf^-^Veisailh 

— Lexington, 


i.    --^v 


Ou RING  my  stny  at  Louisville,  the  tbrentenedlndian  war  wai 
the  general  topic  of  conversation,  and  the  inhabitants  here  were 
not  so  sanguine  as  those  at  Cincinnati.    They  thought  there  would 
certainly  be  fighting,  though  they  did  not  apprehend  there  would 
be  any  serious  battle ;  and  they  had  no  fear  whatever  that  any  part 
of  Kentucky  would  be  disturbed.     Captain  Baen,    my  fellow-pas-l 
senf^cr,  assured  me,  when  we  were  on  the  river,  that  t]ierewasun<l 
questionable  evidence  of  the  Indians  being  stirred  up  by  the  Brit- 
ish,  and  I  found  this  to  be  the  current  belief  here,  corroborated  by 
captain  Ball,  of  Virginia,  who  was  an  officer  in  general  Wayne's 
army.     He  represented  the  Indians,  in  that  quarter,  as  dastardly, 
treacherous,  cruel  wretches,  who,  if  they  came  to  action,  ought  to  get 
no  quarter,  as  they  had  not  the  smallest  cause  for  quarrel.    Colonel 
Boyd  had  embarked  with  his  regiment  I*  days  before,  and  no  appre- 
hension was  entertained  as  to  the  result  of  a  rencounter,  if  one  took! 
place.  Captain  Baen  was  waiting  for  a  brother  officer,  and  intended! 
to  set  out  in  a  few  days  on  horseback,  to  join  the  army  at  Vincennes.* 
The  principal  assemblages  of  hostile  Indians  were  on  the  Wa-I 
bash,  100  miles  above  that  post.     It  was  not  supposed  that  anyl 
material  mischief  would  be*done  by  the  Indians,  except  in  soniel 
straggling  settlements  on  the  road,  between  the  Prophet's  towD 
and  Fort  Maiden,  in  Canada,  between  which  places  an  active  InH 
tcrcourse  was  kept  up. 

Havin"-  purchased  a  handsome  mare,  for  which  I  paid  25  dol-j 
lars,  I  bade  adieu  to  the  captain  and  my  French  travelling  comJ 
panion,  and  set  out  for  Lexington  on  the  22d  of  September,  atf 
o'clock,  along  with  captain  Ball,  and  some  other  gentlemen. 

Some  rain  had  fallen,  which  rendered  the  road  a  little  niuddjj 
but  it  was  pretty  good  otherwise,  and  led  through  a  very  rich 
level  country,  for  two  miles,  when  we  crossed  Bear  Grass  creek 
where  there  are  some  mills.  In  our  way  we  saw  a  number  of  sraa' 
ponds,  which  sufficiently  account  for  the  prevalence  of  the  fevd 
and  ague.     Land,  we  were  told,    was  held  as  high  as  20  toj(| 

•  This  Muiablc  oTicer  was  unfortunately  killed  in  a  baUle  with  the  Indians  sonic  i 
«ft«r. 


KENTUCKY.  39? 

dollars  unimproved,  and  a  great  deal  of  it  is  held  on  speculation, 
which  operates  very  much  against  the  clearing  and  draining  of  the 
country. 

The  country  rises  a  little  to  the  eastward.  We  passed  a  num- 
ber of  very  rich  farms  on  our  way  to  Middleton,  twelve  miles  dis- 
tant from  Louisville. 

MiDDLETON  consists  of  40  or  50  dwelling  houses,  and  is  on  tho 
head  waters  of  Bear  Grass  creek.  Land  is  held  at  about  10  dol- 
lars per  acre.  -    ■ 

Here  my  fellow-traveller,  who  was  troubled  with  the  ague,  was 
seized  with  a  fit,  and  I  was  obliged  to  travel  on  alone.  The  coun- 
try beyond  this  got  more  hilly,  and  perfectly  healthy,  to  Shclby- 
viile,  20  miles  from  Middleton,  where  I  stopped  all  night. 

Shclbyville  is  the  capital  of  Shdby  county,  and  contains  424  in- 
habitants. The  country  is  fertile  round  it,  and  the  town  is  improv- 
ing. They  have  no  church ;  but  education  is  well  attended  to,  and 
the  people  are  civil  and  discreet.  Several  manufacturies  are  e8tal>- 
lished,  and  thriving,  principally  of  hemp  and  wool.  Cotton  and 
wool  spinning  by  machinery  are  contemplated.  The  people  here, 
and  from  hence  to  Louisville,  are  all  clothed  in  home-made  manu> 
factures.     Land  in  the  neighbourhood  sells  for  8  dollars. 

September  2Sd.  I  fell  in  here  with  a  gentleman  from  Georgia, 
and  we  agreed  to  travel  together  to  Frankfort.  We  passed  Clear 
creek  at  the  end  of  the  town,  and  took  a  near  road  through  the 
woods,  which,  like  the  other  original  roads  through  tliis  country, 
winds  along  the  top  of  a  dry  ridge.  The  morning  was  fine,  and 
our  journey  very  pleasant ;  the  country  rich,  and  many  of  the  farms 
well  cultivated.  The  foliage  on  the  trees  was  beautifully  tinted, 
and  the  choiristcrs  of  the  forest  delighted  us  with  their  song.  We 
passed  several  creeks,  mostly  dried  up,  and  reached  a  tavern  13 
miles  from  Shelbyville,  romantically  situated  at  the  foot  of  a  hill, 
with  a  creek  winding  along  right  before  the  house.  Here  we  stop- 
ped to  breakfast. 

After  breakfast  we  travelled  about  a  mile  to  Benson  creek,  which 
runs  in  a  very  deep  valley,  with  steep  limestone  banks.  We  de- 
scended into  this  valley,  and  travelled  through  a  very  romantic 
country,  crossing  the  creek  several  times  in  our  progress,  and  at  1 
o'clock  reached  Frankfort,  the  capital  of  Kentucky,  6  miles  from 
where  we  stopped  to  breakfast.  *;  -,.,  i'     "l^  >    " 

I  immediately  waited  on  colonel  Greenup,  the  late  goveraor,  to 


m 

"I't'lr 
Pi.' 


:|' 


'J 


9S 


TRAV1L8     IN' 


whom  I  had  a  letter  of  introducton,  and  he  very  politely  corrieil 
mc  tu  see  every  thing  of  consequence  in  the  town.  'I'hc  statc-iiouse 
is  a  hand:>unie  cdilicu  of  stone,  and  the  apartments  are  convenient 
for  transacting  the  public  business.  The  penitentiary  is  somewhat 
upon  the  plan  of  the  state-prison  of  Philadelphia,  and  is  under  such 
excellent  management  that  the  institution  supports  itself  by  a  judi> 
cious  application  of  the  labour  of  the  convicts.  They  were  at  this 
time  3i  in  number.  Various  mechanical  branches  were  carried  on; 
but  the  convicts  were  mostly  employed  in  sawing  marble  in  the  o> 
pen  yard.  Here,  one  worthy  was  pointed  out  to  us  whose  offence 
was  gouging.  The  law  for  that  offence  is  strictly  put  in  execution, 
and  is  imprisonment  for  not  less  than  2,  and  not  more  than  1 0  years, 
with  a  fine  of  not  more  than  1000  dollars,  of  which  two- thirds  goes 
to  the  sufferer.  That  crime,  we  were  informed,  Ls  not  now  so  com< 
men  as  formerly,  as  a  number  of  the  quarrelsome  miscreants  have 
adopted  the  practice  of  stabbing,  before  noticed.  The  criminal  code 
of  this  state  has  been  lately  arranged  on  a  new  plan,  and  is  now  con- 
udered  very  judicious ;  and  this,  together  with  the  natural  progress 
of  civilization,  will  tend  to  purge  the  dross  from  Kentucky,  and  es- 
tablish her  character  among  the  other  states  for  virtue  and  good 
morals.  Criminals  of  all  descriptions  are  admitted,  except  those 
convicted  of  murder  of  the  first  degree,  vidch  is  punished  with 
death.  We  saw  some  very  handsome  specimens  of  marble,  from 
the  banks  of  the  Kentucky  river.  Many  of  the  slabs  were  varier 
^ated  with  the  impressions  of  leaves  of  trees,  and  one  had  the  ex* 
act  resemblance  of  a  bird  on  it  ,      .    v    r 

•From  the  penitentiary  we  passed  to  the  cotton-bagging  manufac- 
tory, and  thence  to  the  river,  where  a  chain  bridge  was  building; 
but  its  progress  was  suspended  for  want  of  funds. 

The  river  here  runs  in  a  deep  bed,  with  steep  limestone  banks, 
and  is  about  80  or  90  yards  wide.  It  is  navigable  in  freshets  about 
^00  miles ;  but  the  navigation  is  much  obstructed,  and  very  uncer* 
tain.  It  has  its  source  at  the  south-east  corner  of  the  state,  among 
the  mountainSt  -      >-  .    .    - 

I  spent  the  evening  very  much  to  my  satisfaction,  in  company 
vith  governor  Greenup,  and  by  his  assistance  compiled  materials 
for  the  ibllowing  short  account  of  this  place. 

Frankfort  is  situated  in  a  small  plain,  with  high  land  to  the  cast,  a 
pretty  high  hill  to  the  north-east,  and  the  Kentucky  river  bounds  it 
on  theoier  sides,  ininning  in  the  form  of  a  half  moon.     It  is  neat* 


KENTUCKY. 


590 


ly  laid  out,  the  streets  crossing  one  nnother  at  right  nngleo,  and  thcj 
arc  mostly  all  paved.  It  consists  of  about  150  houses,  the  most  of 
them  iiandsomcly  built  with  brick,  and  contains  1099  inhabitantn. 
The  public  buildings  are  the  state-house  and  penitentiary  aforesaid^ 
and  a  bank.     A  theatre  and  church  arc  building. 

There  is  a  considerable  commerce  in  the  produce  of  the  country 
on  the  river;  and,  till  of  late,  a  great  many  English  goods  were  sold; 
but  in  consequence  of  the  low  price  of  produce,  the  inhabitant* 
have  been  obliged  to  make  their  own  clothing,  and  a  spirit  for  do- 
mestic manufactures  now  prevails  amongst  all  classes  of  the  people. 
Two  manufactories  of  cotton-bagging  have  been  recently  establish- 
ed, and  are  doing  well ;  and  two  rope-M'alks,  a  tobacco  factory,  and 
several  carding  machines,  are  also  in  operation.  A  number  of  branch- 
es of  manufactures  could  be  established  here  to  advantage,  the  chief 
of  which  are  beer  and  porter  brewing,  which  must  go  hand  in  hand 
with  a  manufacture  of  glass  bottles ;  carding  and  spiiming  of  cotton, 
and,  connected  with  this,  wire  for  cards.  A  stocking  manufactory 
on  a  small  scale  would  succeed ;  and^ere  are  probably  some  others. 
Mechanics  can  make  from  one  to  two  dollars  per  day,  and  board- 
ing is  very  low. 

In  the  state  of  society  there  is  considerable  room  for  improvement. 
A  great  many  of  the  young  men  are  addicted  to  gaming,  a  vice  that 
generally  leads  to  others  of  a  more  serious  nature;  but  indeed  the 
waste  of  precious  time,  which  Dr.  Franklin  very  appropriately  terms 
"the  stuff  that  life  is  made  of,"  is  bad  enough  in  itself.  However, 
asinformation  begins  to  be  amply  diffused,  particularly  among  the 
fair  sex,  who  may  be  termed  the  sweeteners  of  life,  it  i^  ,  be  hoped 
the  young  men,  and  the  more  advanced  in  years  too,  will  bend  their 
attention  to  virtuous  industry,  which  has  its  certain  reward ;  while 
that  of  gamiug  is  not  only  precarious,  but  whatever  is  gained  by  it 
is  more  than  lost  to  the  possessor,  being  far  outbalanced  by  the  evils 
1  attending  it.  •  ^  '     , 

With  a  view  of  correcting  this  vice,  a  number  of  citizens  attempt- 
I  ed  to  establish  a  public  library  ;  but  it  not  succeeding,  they  have 
iubicribed  to  build  a  theatre,  in  order  to  form  an  amusement  for 
the  ladies;  presuming,  I  think,  very  correctly,  that  a  number 
of  the  most  virtuous  of  the  gentlemen  will  be  found  in  the  ladies* 
company. 

A  seminary  has  been  erected  for  the  instruction  of  young  ladicis 

wid  another  for  young  men. 


H 


K 

WBk 

i 

^S^BBt 

1 

tj^B  J^^H| 

H 

400  TKAVEI^   IM 

The  country  round  Frankfort  i*  rough  and  hilly,  and  one  can 
hardly  visit  tli«  place  without  expressing  surprise  how  the  citizcnt 
made  choice  of  it  for  the  seat  of  government,  when  there  arc  go 
many  situations,  fur  more  eligible  and  more  central,  in  the  stnte. 

September  24.  My  former  travelling  companion,  cnptuin  Bull, 
having  come  forward,  we  travelled  together  to  Versailles,  13  mik» 
from  Frankfort.  The  country  for  six  miles  is  rough  and  stony, 
but  there  are  some  small  tracts  of  good  land  in  it.  At  the  end  of 
six  miles  we  came  to  a  very  fine  spring  of  pure  water,  issuing  from 
the  limestone  rock.  Beyond  this  the  soil  is  very  fine  all  the  way 
to  Versailles,  which  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  charming  country. 
Versaillc>8  is  handsomely  laid  out,  and  contains  488  inhabitants. 
Several  brick  buildings  were  erecting,  and  the  town  appeared  to 
be  in  a  thriving  state.  There  is  a  pretty  good  court-house  in  the 
town,  and  Woodford  academy  being  situated  in  it,  affords  a  good 
opportunity  for  the  education  of  youth. 

The  lands  in  the  neighbourhood  are  exceedingly  beautiful,  and 
well  cultivated ;  the  price  of  land  round  the  town  is  from  10  to  20 
dollars  per  acre.     I'rovisions  of  every  kind  are  very  chq). 

The  country  here  is  generally  healthy,  but  there  has  been  a 
little  sickness  this  season,  owing  to  the  great  heat,  this  liaving 
been  the  hottest  summer  lu  the  remembrance  of  the  oldest  inhabi- 
tants. 

I  left  Versailles  at  2  o'clock,  and  had  a  ino.Ht  agreeable  ride  of  13 
miles  to  Lexington.  The  country  was  really  beautiful,  and  tlie 
improvements,  which  have  been  nearly  all  made  within  20  years, 
present  a  most  pleasing  picture  of  the  progress  of  society.  There 
are  finely  cultivated  fields,  rich  gardens,  and  elegant  mansions, 
principally  of  brick,  all  the  way.  Land  in  the  natural  state  is 
easily  cleared,  for,  notwithstanding  the  richness  of  the  soil,  tliej 
timber  is  mostly  small  and  thin ;  and  there  are  few  situations  ioj 
wliich  the  price  of  wood  will  not  pay  for  the  clearing. 

1  was  pretty  well  prepared,  by  the   previous  information,  fori 
the  view  of  Lexington,  but  it  did  exceed  my  expectations.    Tbe| 
scite  of  the  town  is  agreeably  uneven,  with  sufficient  slopes  to  carrjf| 
off  the  water.     The  streets  are  wide  and  airy,  crossing  one  anothfl 
at  right  angles ;  and  the  buildings,  being  mostly  all  of  brick, 
whole  is  as  handsome,  as  far  as  it  extends,  as  Philadelphia;  an 
the  country  round  is  much  handsomer  than  that  round  the  latu 


ICtNTOCKY.  401 

city.  As  I  pasted  along  the  streets  I  observed  the  people  nil  busy, 
having  a  {.'low  of  heiJth,  and  an  aiiiniation  in  their  faces,  indica- 
tive of  a  healthy  climate,  and  a  plentiful  country.  I  lodged  nt 
Postlethwaite's  tiivifn. 


..  » ■ 


CHAPTER  LXXIX. 


Lexingtan. 


1  FOUND  myself  at  first  in  u  singular  dilemma  here.  I  had 
resulved,  at  setting  out,  to  pay  particular  attention  to  Lexington, 
tnd  yet  it  so  happened  that  1  had  not  a  letter  of  introduction  to 
a  penon  in  the  place,  except  to  one  gentleman,  and  he  was  from 
borne.  I  had  got  very  particular  letters  of  introduction  to  gentle- 
men in  Pittsburg  and  Louisville,  who  were  well  acquainted  in 
Lexington;  and  it  was  expected  that  I  could  liave  been  furnishtd 
with  letters  from  Iwth,  but  neither  of  them  were  at  home,  and  I 
was  thus  disapointed.  '  '     ' 

Luckily,  however,  there  were  a  number  of  Georgians  in  the 
town,  and  I  fell  in  with  an  old  acquaintance  from  Savannah.  He 
introduced  me  to  Mr.  Jordan,  the  postmaster,  and  to  this  gentle- 
man's kind  attention  I  was  much  indebted,  in  every  respect ;  but 
partKularly  for  assisting  me  in  procuring  the  information  that  I 
was  more  immediately  in  quest  of. 

In  the  morning  we  went  to  the  market,  which  was  as  well  sup- 
plied with  provisions  as  that  of  Philadelphia,  and  the  prices  very 
reasonable.  A  few  of  them  may  be  quoted  :  flour  2  dollars  per 
cwt.  meal  40  cents;  potatoes  25  per  bushel,  turnips  16,  benn^  12^ 
per  peck,  onions  6^,  beef  3  per  pound,  mutton  83  per  side,  veal 
1 1  dollar  per  side,  bacon  from  6  to  8  cents  per  pound,  venison  25 
per  ham,  fowls  from  12^  to  16  per  pair,  ducks  25  to  33  per  pair, 
geese  S3  each,  turkeys  from  25  to  50,  cheese  12^  per  pound,  but« 
ter  12i,  eggs  6^  per  dozen. 

From  the  market  we  went  through  several  rope-walks,  where 
Iwefound  a  number  of  black  fellows  busily  employed;  and  from 
Ithence  we  went  to  see  a  cotton-bagging  manufactory  belonging  to 
la  Mr.  Brand,  from  Dundee.  Here  we  found  a  thriving  establish- 
ment. Two  men  were  at  work  dressing  the  hemp ;  some  boy:; 
here  spinning;  and  a  number  of  men  and  boys  were  busy  weaving. 

51 


.( ■■■>  mt 


ii'ii 


|:r,H 


402 


TRAVELS   IM 


The  number  of  hands  was  23,  all  under  the  direction  of  an  ovfr 
seer ;  every  thing  was  going  on  like  clock-work.  Mr.  Brand  in- 
formed us  that  they  produced  120  yards  of  bagging  per  day,  at  33' 
cents  per  yard,  and  the  price  of  the  hemp  was  4  dollars  per  cwt. 
In  the  evening  we  had  a  party  at  Mr.  Brand's,  and  1  was  very 
much  pleased  with  the  attention  so  unexpectedly  shown  me.  We 
went  in  a  body  to  the  theatre.  The  performers  acted  very  well, 
but  there  was  a  deficiency  of  actresses,  and  one  of  the  men  had  to 
play  a  female  character,  which  did  not  suit  my  taste  at  all.  This 
company  are  to  play  here,  at  Frankfort,  and  at  Louisville. 

Through  the  medium  of  Mr.  Jordan  and  Mr.  Brand,  I  was  in- 
troduced to  many  others ;  and  soon  became  as  familiar  with  Lex- 
ington  as  I  was  with  New  York ;  but,  as  I  must  condense  my  ob- 
servations, thri  remaining  information  will  be  found  in  the  fol- 
lowing general  account. 

I^ExiNGTON  is  the  seat  of  justice  of  Fayette  county,  and  is  situ- 
ated in  the  heart  of  a  most  beautiful  country,  on  a  branch  of  Elk- 
horn  river.  It  is  one  of  the  earliest  settlements  in  the  western 
country,  and  is  coeval  with  the  battle  of  Lexington,  the  news  of  I 
which  having  reached  the  early  settlers,  they  conferred  on  it  the 
present  name.  It  has  since  flourished  in  a  wonderful  degree,  and 
now  contains  4327  inhabitants.  By  the  census  of  1800,  it  contain* 
ed  2400,  so  that  it  has  nearly  doubled  its  population  in  10  yean; 
and  as  it  is  progressing  in  manufactures  and  wealth,  and  the  ad- 
joining country  rapidly  settling  up,  there  is  every  probability 
that  it  will  increase  in  the  same  ratio  for  a  considerable  time  to 
come.  Lexington  has  a  very  neat  court-house,  market-house, 
jail,  four  churches,  and  a  bank.  There  is  a  very  excellent  semi- 
nary of  learning,  under  the  management  of  special  trustees,  whicb  I 
is  supported  by  about  70,000  acres  of  land ;  and  there  is  a  public 
library,  a  valuable  establishment,  with  a  youth's  library  attached 
to  it.  Three  newspapers  are  published  in  the  town,  and  papers 
are  received  by  mail  IVom  all  quarters  of  the  union.  There  are| 
a  numl)er  of  valuable  manufactories;  and  a  steam-mill  was  recent- 
ly J.  .it  io  motion,  which  is  of  great  advantage  to  the  town  and 
neighbourhood.  There  are  four  principal  taverns,  all  under  good  | 
management,  and  there  are  about  30  retail  stores,  and  two  book- 
stores. .,Vv  4  ..,■  i- 

The  principal  manulhctures  of  Lexington  are  of  hemp,  to  whidi 
the  labour  of  the  black  people  is  well  adapted,  and  of  which  tlie 


KENTUCKY. 


403 


country  yields  amazing  crops,  at  the  low  price  of  4  dollars  per 
cfft.;  being  at  the  rateof  jfil8  sterling  per  ton.  There  are  13 
txtensire  rope-walks,  five  bagging  manufactories,  and  one  of  duck, 
Tlie  manufactures  of  hemp  alone  are  estimated  at  500,000  dollars. 
The  other  principal  manufactories  are  eight  cotton  factories,  three 
ffoolicn  manufactories,  and  an  oil-cloth  factory.  The  other  pro- 
fessions are,  masons  and  stone-cutters,  brick-makers,  carpenters, 
cabinet-makers,  coopers,  turners,  machine-makers,  smiths,  nailers, 
copper  and  tin-smith^/,  brass-founders,  gim-smiths,  silvcr-&miths, 
watch-makers,  tanners,  curriers,  saddlers,  boot  and  shoe-makers, 
butchers,  bakers,  brewers,  distillers,  stocking-makers,  dyers, 
tavlors,  tobacconists,  soap-boilers,  candle-makers,  brush-makers, 
potters,  painters,  confectioners,  glovers  and  breeches-makers, 
straw-bonnet-makers,  and  batters.  As  this  place  is  rapidly  in- 
creasing, manufactures  are  so  of  course ;  workmen  are  mostly  al- 
ways in  demand,  the  more  so  as  industrious  journeymen  very  soon 
become  masters. 

The  following  branches  could  be  established,  or  increased ; 
frame  smith-work,  connected  with  the  manufactory  of  stockings, 
upholstery,  chaise  and  chair-making,  piano-fortes.  And  the  fol- 
lowing branches  are  susceptible  of  augmentation  to  a  great  extent: 
cotton,  woollen,  and  hemp.  The  materials  for  these  arc  to  be 
procured  on  the  spot.  Hemp  has  been  noticed;  sheep,  both 
common  and  merino,  thrive  remarkably  well ;  and  cotton  of  an  ex- 
cellent quality  is  brought  over  land  from  Tennessee  at  2^  to  3  cents 
per  pound. 

Journeymen  mechanics  are  scarce ;  they  can  earn  from  1  to  1 
dollar  50  cents  per  day,  and  be  boarded  for  1  dollar  50  cents  to 
2  dollars  per  week. 

Lexington  is  a  general  market :  the  principal  articles  for  export, 
and  the  prices  when  I  was  there,  were  as  follows :  wheat  50  cents 
per  bushel,  rye  40,  oats  16,  barley  30,  whiskey  25  ts  33  per  gal- 
lon, peach-brandy  33  to  40,  cyder  4  dollars  per  barrel,  beer  8 
dollars,  salt  1  dollar  25  cents  per  bushel,  hemp  3  dollars  50  cents 
to  5  dollars  per  cwt.,  tobacco  1  dollar  50  cents  to  2  dollars,  good 
borses  50  to  100  dollars  each,  cows  12  to  20  dollars,  sheep  1  dol- 
lar 50  cents,  negroes  (a  black  trade,)  from  14  to  30  years  of  age, 
350  to  400  dollars,  cordage  8  to  10  cents  per  pound,  town  lots, 
66  feet  in  front,  and  219  deep,  frrom  2000  to  3000  dollars,  fire- 
wood 1  dollar  per  load;  houses  (containing  four  good  rooms)  100 


404  KENTUCKY. 

to  200  dollars  per  annum;  houses  for  mechanics  30  to  50  dollars; 
but  that  class  have  mostly  houses  of  their  own. 

The  state  ol  society  is  much  improved  in  Lexington.  Educa- 
tion is  well  attended  to,  and  there  are  pretty  good  schools.  Perhap* 
the  church  is  not  on  a  footing  with  the  sentiments  of  the  people, 
which  are  very  liberal  on  the  subject  of  religion.  They  are  po- 
lite and  affable  in  their  manners,  and  are  hospitable  in  a  high  de- 
gree. They  are  high-spirited,  independent,  and  republican  in 
their  sentiments  ;  and,  as  might  be  expected  from  a  people  sprung 
from  Virginia,  they  are  warm  admirers  of  Mr.  Jefferson,  whose 
inaugural  speech  I  saw  elegantly  printed  on  white  silk,  and  hung 
up  in  the  hall  of  Mr.  Postlethwaite's  tavern. 

The  police  of  the  town  is  supported  by  the  rent  of  the  market 
and  public  grounds,  and  by  a  property  tax  of  from  12  to  20  cents 
per  100  dollars.  It  is  under  the  management  of  13  trustees  and  a 
president,  whose  power  extends  one  mile  round  the  centre  of  the 
town.  The  streets  are  nearly  all  paved,  and  this  important  object 
fur  the  comfort  of  the  town  will  soon  be  entirely  accomplished,  as 
two-thirds  of  the  inhabitants  can  compel  the  remaining  third  to 
agree  to  it. 

I  have  already  noticed  that  the  country  round  Lexington  is  re* 
roarkably  fertile  and  well  cultivated.  This  desirable  tract  extends 
nearly  20  miles  round  the  town,  and  is  capable  of  maintaining 
nearly  half  a  million  of  inhabitants ;  so  that  it  will  probably  be- 
come very  populous.  It  is  the  most  beautiful  tract  of  land  I  ever 
saw.  The  prices  may  be  quoted  as  follows :  land  in  the  immediate 
neighbourhood  of  Lexington  200  dollars  per  acre;  from  thence  to 
the  distance  of  one  mile,  180  dollars;  to  one  mile  and  a  half,  100; 
to  two  miles,  50;  to  two  and  a  half  miles,  30;  to  three  miles,  25; 
to  four  miles,  20;  to  eight,  from  20  dollars  to  12.  Very  little 
good  land  is  now  to  be  had  under  1 2  dollars  per  acre. 

I  was  introduced  to  one  of  the  early  settlers,  who  told  me  he 
saw  the  first  tree  cut  down  here,  antl  has  noticed  the  progress  of 
the  place  ever  since.  He  observed  that  the  climate  was  very  dif- 
tereot  from  that  beyond  the  mountains.  Heat  and  cold  did  not 
go  to  extremes,  the  thermometer  in  summer  seldom  being  above 
80°,  or  in  winter  below  25°  ;  for  six  months  in  the  year  it  ranges 
about  56°  :  July  and  August  are  the  warmest  months.  There  has 
been  more  sultry  days  this  sunimer  than  he  has  ever  seen.  An 
English  gentleman,  who  has  been  settled  here  for  some  time,  toW 


TENNESSEE. 


405 


me  emphatically,  tliat  the  western  country  had  an  English  climate^ 
but  being  a  few  degrees  farther  to  the  south  than  England,  it  was 
upon  the  whole  a  few  degrees  warmer,  which  was  ko  much  in 
fiiTour  of  the  country. 


CHAPTER  LXXX. 


Tennessee, 

This  beli^  the  southern  extremity  of  my  journey,  I  shall,  be- 
tbre  leaving  Lexington,  devote  a  chapter  to  the  state  of 

TENNESSEE.  • 

This  state  is  situated  between  35°  and  56°  30'  north  latitude.  «nd 
1°  33'  and  13°  23'  west  longitude.  It  is  420  miles  long  and  104 
broad;  containing  an  areuof  43,200  squaremiles,or27,648,000  acres. 

The  state  of  Tennessee  is  marked  by  bold  features.  It  is  washed 
by  the  Mississippi  on  the  west,  and  the  fine  rivers  Tennessee  and 
Cumberland  pass  through  it  by  very  serpentine  courses.  The 
western  part  is  mostly  level ,  the  middle,  like  Kentucky,  hilly  but 
not  mountainous ;  the  eastern  po^t,  known  by  the  name  of  East 
Tennessee,  is  wholly  among  the  mountains.  These  mountains  are 
a  continuation  of  the  ridges  which  pass  through  the  northern 
states,  and  are  said  to  be  very  beautiful ;  the  country  among  them 
forming  the  most  delightful  residence  of  any  in  the  state,  in  con- 
sequence of  which  it  is  rapidly  settling.  Besides  the  principal 
rivers  already  alluded  to,  there  are  a  great  number  of  lesser  rivers 
and  small  streams,  but  they  are  all  tributary  to  the  Tennessee  and 
Cumberland,  except  a  few  of  no  great  length  that  run  into  the  Mis- 
sissippi. None  of  the  waters  in  this  state  run  to  the  eastward,  but 
tbe  bead  waters  of  the  Tennessee  interlock  with  the  rivers  of  Geor- 
pa,  which  determines  the  boundary  between  those  states  and  North 
Carolina  to  be  the  highest  land  in  this  part  of  the  United  States. 

Iron  ore  is  found  in  abundance  in  this  itate,  and  a  considerable 
part  of  the  country  is,  like  Kentucky,  bedded  on  limestone.  Cop. 
pcras,  ulum,  nitre,  lead,  and  some  silver  have  been  found ;  and 
pit-coal  is  supposed  to  be  plenty  through  the  state,  but,  owing 
to  the  quantity  of  wood,  it  is  not  much  sought  for.  Salt- 
petre is  an  article  of  commerce,  and  there  arc  several  salt-springt 


It!'"  4 


Pirn 


406 


TKNNESSEF. 


which  supply  the  state  with  that  necessary  article.      Some  other 
mineral  springs  have  been  discovered. 

The  soil  is  diiFerent  in  different  parts  of  the  country.  In  East 
Tennessee  the  land  is  good  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  in 
the  valleys ;  the  mountains  are  poor  in  soil,  but  th  ?y  afford  (rood 
pasture  for  sheep  and  cattle.  In  the  middle  part,  the  soil  is  pretty 
similar  to  that  in  Kentucky,  and  the  low  lands  in  the  western  parts 
are  composed  of  a  rich  black  vegetable  earth. 

The  climate  in  East  Tennessee,  among  the  mountains,  is  de- 
lightful. The  heats  of  summer  are  so  tempered  by  the  mountain 
air,  that  in  point  of  climate  this  is  among  the  most  desirable  resi- 
deuces  in  all  the  United  States.  The  middle  part  has  a  climate 
very  similar  to  Kentucky,  but,  being  farther  to  the  south,  it  is 
warmer,  and  more  congenial  to  the  culture  of  cotton,  and  other 
articles  raised  in  the  southern  states.  The  western  part  being  low, 
the  air  in  summer  is  hot  and  moist,  and  the  people  are  a  good  deal 
subject  to  fever  and  ague,  and  bilious  fever,  during  the  fall. 

Tennessee  originally  belonged  to  the  state  of  North  Carolina, 
and  began  to  settle  in  1 765.  In  1 7K9  the  territory  was  cedeu  oy 
that  state^to  the  United  States ;  and  in  1796  itwas  admitted  into  the 
union,  and  a  state  constitution  was  adopted.  It  sends  two  senators 
and  three  representatives  to  congress ;  but,  in  consequence  of  the 
increase  of  population,  the  number  of  representatives  will  now  be 
considerably  increased. 

This  state  is  divided  into  East  and  West  Tennessee.  East  Tennes> 
see  is  only  about  one-fourth  of  the  state,  and  is  subdivided  into  17 
counties,  containing  101,367  inhabitants,  of  whom  9,376  areslares. 
West  Tennessee  is  subdivided  into  21  counties,  containing  160,360 
inhabitants,  of  whom  35,1 59  are  slaves;  in  all  261,727,  being  near- 
ly six  to  the  square  mile. 

The  principal  towns  are  K!,-oxville,  in  East  Tennessee,  and 
Kasliville,  in  West  Tennesse.  Knoxville  is  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment, and  contains  about  1000  iuhabitants.  Nashville  is  situated 
on  the  Cumberland  river,  and  is  a  place  of  considerable  commerce 
particularly  in  dry  goods,  groceries,  and  cotton.  There  are  a  con- 
siderable number  of  smaller  towns,  but  they  are  of  no  great  impor- 
tance. ,  .  ^  ,  .  ..J  ■  - :  .  <  ..  ,  ■■  .,, 
.  The  great  business  of  the  state  is  agriculture.  Cotton  forms  a 
sort  of  staple  commodity,  particularly  in  the  western  part  of  the 
state.    The  other  products  are  the  same  as  in  Kentucky. 


TENNESSEE.  407 

The  whole  of  the  people  throughout  the  state  are  clothed  in  do- 
mestic manufactures,  which  have  been  encouraged  by  premiums 
from  the  legislature.  I  have  not  heard  of  any  cotton  manufacto- 
ries upon  a  large  scale,  but  the  subject  will  doubtless  be  attended 
to,  as  the  cotton  here  is  of  a  very  superior  quality,  and  being  far 
from  a  market,  it  would  be  attended  with  great  benefit  to  the  state 
to  fabricate  it  into  different  sorts  of  goods,  by  machinery.  The 
principal  exports  in  West  Tennessee  are  by  the  Mississippi  to  New 
Orleans,  and  consist  of  cotton,  tobacco,  flour,  &c  From  the  east- 
ern part  they  carry  considerable  quantities  of  cattle  to  the  Atlantic 
ports.        .      ■    -  ■  •  •-..,-  ^. 

Tennessee  being  principally  settled  from  the  Carolinas,  Virginia, 
and  Georgia,  with  a  considerable  number  of  New  Englanders  and 
foreigners,  the  state  of  society  is  much  diversified.  They  are  im- 
proving in  civilization.  Education  is  pretty  generally  attended  to ; 
and  there  is  little  doubt  but  this  will  become  a  very  interesting  state. 
The  people  of  this  state  having  the  example  of  the  confusion  which 
took  place  in  Kentucky,  ubout  land  titles, ,  before  their  eyes,  adopt- 
ed a  plan  to  prevent  all  difficulties  on  this  subject,  and  it  has  been 
of  great  advantage  to  the  state,  as  it  has  held  out  an  inducement  to 
many  of  the  emigrants  to  pass  over  Kentucky  and  settle  in  it ;  but, 
«s  the  land  laws  in  Kentucky  will  soon  assume  a  secure  form,  this 
advantage  will  not  be  of  long  duration,  and  the  principal  increase 
of  population  hereafter  is  to  be  looked  for  from  the  Carolinas  and 
Georgia. 

The  genius  of  the  people  in  the  new  states,  may  be  gathered  in 
part  from  a  perusal  of  their  state  constitutions.  Having  nothing 
to  dog  their  intellect  on  the  subject  of  government,  which  is  the 
most  important  of  all  earthly  concerns,  it  may  be  fairly  presumed 
that  the  constitution  will  embrace  the  sentiments  of  a  considerable 
majority  of  the  people.  .  ^     ,   > 

The  constitution  of  this  state  declares,  that  all  power  is  in- 
herent in  the  people — that  all  men  have  a  right  to  worship  God 
according  to  the  dictates  of  their  consciences,  and  that  no  prefer- 
ence shall  ever  be  given  by  law  to  any  religious  establishment — 
that  elections  shall  be  free  and  equal ; — and  that  the  trial  by  jury 
'hall  remain  inviolate. 

The  government  is  legislative,  executive,  and  judicial.— The  le- 
ure  consists  of  representatives  and  senators,  who  are  chosm 
years,  and  must  be  possessed  of  200  acres  of  land  in  the 


Ifor  two 


5'"'f 


m" 


M 


408  THAVELS   IN 

county  for  which  they  are  chosen.  The  governor  must  be  possess- 
ed of  500  acres  of  land,  and  is  also  elected  for  two  years.  All  free 
males  of  21  years  of  age,  who  pay  taxes,  have  a  vote.  The  judj. 
ciftry  in  vested  in  such  superior  and  inferior  courts  as  the  legi»lature 
may  appoint ;  the  judges  are  appointed  by  the  legislature,  and  hold 
their  offices  during  good  behaviour. 


CHAPTER  LXXXI. 

Leave  Ijcxington — Paris — Bltte  Lick — Washington — Limestone. 

JjLAVING  finished  my  inquiries  at  Lexington,  I  intimated  to  my 
friends  that  I  must  depart.  I  was  urged  to  stay  a  few  days  longer, 
in  order  to  be  introduced  to  some  of  the  leading  men  of  the  place; 
but  I  had  a  long  journey  to  perform,  the  season  was  advancing, 
and  every  hour  was  precious.  Finding  me  deaf  to  their  hospi- 
table entreaties,  a  few  of  them  told  me  they  would  accompany 
me  as  far  as  Paris,  22  miles  distant.  "  Up  higher  yet,  my  bon- 
net," thinks  I  to  myself;  "  this  is  really  a  contrast  to  the  situation 
I  was  in  the  first  evening  [  reached  Lexington." 

We  got  all  ready,  and  set  out  on  horseback,  five  in  number, 
on  the  29th  of  September,  at  3  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  The 
weather  was  clear  and  beautiful.  The  thermometer  stood  at  58'. 
A  fine  road  leads  from  Lexington,  and  the  lands  and  houses  are 
similar  to  those  <hi  the  west  side  already  described.  A  few  miles 
from  the  town  we  met  governor  Scott,  in  company  with  another 
gentleman,  wIm),  I  was  told,  would  be  candidate  for  governot 
at  the  ensuing  election.  My  friends  were  acquainted  with  them 
both,  and  I  was  introduced  of  course  ;  but  our  situation  did  not 
admit  of  any  conversation,  except  the  ordinary  compliments  usual 
on  such  occasions. 

At  8  o'clock  we  reached  Paris,  where  we  spent  the  eveningj 
in  a  very  social  manner. 

Paris  stands  on  elevated  ground,  on  the  south  fork  of  Licking 
creek,  on  which  there  are  several  manufactories  of  cotton,  wool,J 
and  hemp.     The  houses  are  built  partly  of  brick,  and  partly 
wood,  and  some  few  are  of  freestone.      They  are  about  120  inj 
number,  and  the  inhabitants  amount  to  838.     Paris  is  the  ca{ 
of  Bourbon  county,  and  conttuns  the  couxt-house.    The  other 


KENTUCKY. 


409 


public  buildings  are  a  prettbyterian  meeting-house,   au  academy, 
and  jail. 

The  country  round  is  perfectly  healthy,  and  pretty  well  improv- 
ed. Land  is  worth  1 3  dollars  per  acre,  and,  it'  highly  improved,  it 
isworth  20  dollars.  Unimproved  land,  5  or  6  miles  from  town,  is 
worth  about  10  dollars. 

September  30th.  This  morning  I  rose  early,  and  found  there 
had  been  a  little  frost  during  ihe  night,  the  first  I  have  perceived 
this  season.  We  had  an  early  breaktast,  and,  parting  with  my 
friends  with  sentiments  of  mutual  regard,  I  set  out  on  my  journey 
at  8  o'clock.  The  day  was  now  clear,  warm,  and  agreeable,  and 
I  enjoyed  sweet  meditation  through  this  pleasant  country.  I  pass- 
ed a  creek  at  the  end  of  the  town,  and  found  a  number  of  settle- 
ments between  it  and  Millcrsburg ;  after  passing  which,  the  coun- 
try became  very  rough,  and  the  soil  poor,  increasing  in  sterility 
until  it  is  almost  a  barren.  I  reached  Licking  creek  about  3  o'clock, 
and  stopped  for  dinner  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Ballingal,  a  Scots- 
man, from  Fifeshire. 

1  intended  to  stop  only  a  few  minutes  ;  but  Mr.  Ballingal 
vas  not  to  be  treated  in  that  way  by  a  countr}'man.  He  stripped 
my  horse,  and  put  it  into  the  stable,  and  I  was  obliged  to  stay 
all  night ;  by  which  means  I  had  an  opportunity  of  examining 
the  salt  springs  at  the  Blue  Lick,  situated  at  this  place.   :    ^ 

The  spring  is  very  copious ;  but  it  is  so  iilightly  impregnated 
with  salt,  that  it  requires  800  gallons  to  make  a  bushel ;  whereas, 
atthe  Kanhaway  springs,  from  90  to  130  gallons  make  a  bushel. 
On  this  account,  the  springs  here  are  not  now  worth  working, 
and  Mr.  Ballingal  only  kept  the  kettles  a^:  work  until  he  could 
find  other  employment  for  his  hands.  The  spring,  however,  has 
valuable  medicinal  qualities,  and  will  probably  become  useful  in 
a  medical  point  of  view.     The  water  has  been   analyzed,  and  was 

I  tbund  to  contain  (besides  the  salt)  magnesia,  sulphur,  and  fixed  air ; 
but  I  did  not  learn  in  what  proportions.     It  is,  at  present,  much 

I  frequented  by  invalids.  -  ,  -  ■' ■ 

In  descendsng  the  Ohio,  I  took  notice  of  a  certain  Mr.  Ashe, 

I  whose  book  had  come  under  my  observation  ;  and  I  found  it  to 
be  a  representation  so  very  dificreut  from  the  truth,  that  I  began 
to  conclude  it  was  a  fiction;  more  especiaUy  as  I  could  not  trace 
tlio  gentleman,  although  I  had  itiade  several  inquiries  about  him. 
But  Mr.  Ballingal  told  me  hejiad  breakftuted  at  bis  house ;  and  to 

62 


;.,  u 


410  TRAVELS     IN 

tliat  circumstance  his  book  is  iiulvbtetl  i'ov  a  second  notice,  ibe on- 
ly one  I  intend  to  tiike  of  it.  Such  a  work,  indeed,  is  not  wortli  a 
I'ei'utntion,  to  tiH»»e  Who  know  the  country  he  trav<;Ued  tiiroogli; 
l)ut  the  greatet"  pnrt  of  his  readers  will  never  have  an  opportunity 
of  eXQWiniii}^  and  judging  for  themselves.  By  these  it  may  be 
contended,  that  the  remarks  of  Mr.  Ashe  are  as  likely  to  4)0  cor- 
arct  aft  those  which  contradict  them;  but  it  is  a  ibrtunate  cir^An- 
*taiicc  for  the  cause  of  tinith,  that  such  writers  as  Mr.  Ashe  some- 
times  draw  conclusions,  which  time  so  wofully  belies,  that  tliev 
ttnncl  convicted  of  the  most  g^aring  incoiisisiencks — I  ti«i  ainjost 
tempted  to  call  them  by  aiwther  name. 

On  this  state  Mr.  Ashe  observes  that  "  on  the  road  ftorti  Paris  to 
I.expng*on  be  ^wid  the  conrKry  cttltivnted  in  the  propoirtioH  of  I 
to  1000."  I  found  it  cultivated  in  tlic  proportion  of  1  to  3 ;  but 
it  t«ay  "be  said  I  travelled  a  few  years  after  Mr.  Ashe,  and  a  gi^t 
part  of  the  cultivation  had  taken  place  in  the  interim.  Be  it  so; 
but  how  wrll  that  comport  with  the  opinion  of  Mr.  Ashe,  that  Lex- 
ington would  decline  in  population  ?  And  what  light  does  this  au- 
thor stand  in,  when  it  is  ibund  thai  the  state  of  Kentucky  has  nearly  I 
doubled  her  population  in  10  yeare  ?  in  sopite  of  the  following  sage 
remark  :  "  'Fhe  state  of  Kentocky  is  not  likely  1o  increase  in  popu- 
lation, i  may  even  be  nearer  tbe  truth  in  saying  it  will  decrease, 
and  rapidly  decline."  Such  an  uncandid  author  does  not  deserve 
tierious  notice.  I  shall  therefore  simply  mtei-pose  my  opinion— ex. 
ftctly  the  oi>posite  of  Mr.  Ashe :  The  state  o4'  Kentucky  will  in- 
crease, and  rapidly  improve. — We  shall  see  ten  years  hence  which  1 
is  most  correct.  -^   i.  vt    1    r.  iiiri     ;  ■   ,;( /       ;  ^ 

October  1  st.  I  could  not  get  away  from  my  friendly  host  till  I 
past  \  0  o'clock.  The  ground  after  leaving  the  salt  lick  is  almost  a 
perfect  barren,  and  bare  of  trees :  a  circumstance  occasioned,  it  is 
supposed,  by  the  treading  of  the  birflaloos  going  to  drink  the  si 
•water.  Seven  miles  from  the  spring  I  passed  a  good  tavern,  on* I 
creek,  where  there  is  a  mill ;  and  here  the  land  improve?,  amitlie 
improvements  increase  towards  Washington,  where  I  called  on  Mr. 
John  Macker,  another  Scotsman,  and  he  hospitably  detained  me  I 
'all  night. 

>    Mr.  Macker,  being  in  the  land  business,  gave  me  a  groat  deal  ofl 
information  }  Ivut  it  is  princijially  anticipated  by  what  1  have  alrea- 
dy stated.     He  was  well  ac(]uainted  with  the  land  laws,  and  gavel 
me  a  particular  account  of  the  difficulty  tliat  had  arisen  iu  laiidti- 


KEKltJCKT. 


411 


lies;  but  ns  all  these  arc  in  a  fair  way  of  being  obviated,  it  is  un- 
necessary to  submit  them  here  in  detail. 

Washinrrton  h  the  capital  of  Mason  county,  (\nd  is  situated  4  miles 
Irom  the  Ohio  river,  in  a  high  and  rich  country;  but  so  deplorably 
defective  in  water,  tlmt  they  h«ve  Hometimce  to  carry  it  on  carts  from 
the  Ohio.  It  consists  principally  of  one  wide  street,  and  the  hous- 
es, which  are  mostly  built  of  brick,  are  handsome.  It  contains  815 
inhabitants,  who  are  industrious  and  enterprising,  a  great  propor- 
tion of  them  being  employed  in  agricuhnre.  The  public  buildings 
ure,  a  court-house,  jail,  and  academy.  There  arc  several  mauu* 
factories  of  hemp.  The  lands  round  Washington  are  good,  and 
well  cultivated.  The  whole  of  Mason  county,  indeed,  is  good 
soil ;  but  it  is  more  hilly  than  about  Lexington,  though  the  soil  is 
qually  rich  and  fertile.  Land  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  town, 
nnder  cultivation,  sells  at  ftom  10  to  15  dollars  per  acre.  Through 
the  country,  uncleared  lands  average  about  6  dollars. 

The  town  lots  sell  for  about  100  dollars  each,  and  the  out-lots  at 
♦0  dollars  per  acre. 

October  2d.  The  morning  being  very  pleasant,  I  started  at  6 
o'dock,  and  journeyed  on  to  Limestone,  4-  miles  distant.  The 
soil  is  very  good  all  the  way,  and  the  country  Iwing  elevated,  af- 
fords many  fine  views.  It  has  been  noticed,  that  the  Ohio  river 
runs  in  a  deep  valley.  On  approaching  it,  I  had  a  delightful  view 
of  this  beautiful  stream,  which  I  never  could  behold  without 
pleasing  sensations.  From  the  brow  of  the  hill  I  descended  about 
300  feet,  when  1  reached  Limestone. 

I  stopped  here  some  little  time,  during  which  I  saw  a  gentleman 
from  New  York  bound  to  New  Orleans,  by  whom  I  sent  a  letter 
to  my  friend  Mr.  Kennedy;  and,  meeting  with  a  countryman 
from  Kentucky  bound  to  Chillicothe,  we  agreed  to  travel  together. 
But  before  we  proceed  on  our  joufney,  I  shall  take  a  review  of  the 
large  and  very  important  state  of  Kentucky.      '        • . ' 


rivi  ^.       i;^,-s 


■I, 


m> 


■  F   ■■  ■  ^- '  ■'■■    *"?  '^ 


y..  CHAPTER  LXXXIL 

\^   Kentucki/.       ■    '    •      .        ^-         - 

Is  situated  between  36°  30'  and  39''  north  latitude,  and  H^  and 
12"  west  longitude.      Its  greatest   length  is  328  miles,    ^nd  its 


412 


KINTUCKY. 


or 


greatest   brendth    183.    Its    area    is    4<0,110    square    miles, 
25,670,4-00  acres. 

The  face  of  the  country  is  generally  uneven,  some  of  it  rough 
and  hilly ;  and  towards  the  east  there  are  considerable  spurs  of  the 
Allegany  Mountains,  which  divide  the  state  from  Virginia.  The 
Ohio  river  washes  the  state  to  the  north  and  north-west,  874.  miles- 
and  the  Mississippi  on  the  west  57 ;  the  Cumberland  and  Tennessee 
rivers  pass  partly  through  it.  Big  Sandy  river  forms  the  boundary 
line  a  ccmniderable  way  on  the  east ;  and  Licking  river,  Kentucky 
river.  Hulling  river,  and  Green  river  are  all  very  considerable 
streams.  There  is  a  vast  variety  of  small  streams,  and  the  state 
has  the  appearance  of  being  well  watered ;  but  in  some  places  it 
is  not.  The  stratum  under  the  soil  is  limestone,  throughout  the 
'whole  state ;  it  has  a  great  depth,  and  seems  to  be  checquered  with 
innumerable  fissures,  which  let  the  water  pass.  On  this  account, 
there  are  some  places  where  water  is  not  to  be  found  in  summer, 
and  the  greater  part  of  the  rivers  have  worn  down  their  beds  from 
100  to  300  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  earth.  From  the  circum- 
stance of  the  rivers  being  so  confined  between  high  banks, 
they  roll  down  their  waters  to  a  great  depth  in  freshets ;  it  is  no 
uncommon  thing  for  the  Kentucky  river  to  rise  from  4-0  to  SO  feet- 

The  state  is  said  to  be  rather  defective  in  iron,  the  most  useful 
of  all  the  metals :  but  there  are,  notwithstanding,  numerous  iron 
forges.  Marble  is  found  in  the  state,  but  is  not  plenty :  coal  is 
found  in  some  places ;  and  a  few  specimens  of  lead,  copperas,  and 
alum  have  been  found ;  limestone  is  a  most  plentiful  commodity. 
There  are  various  mineral  springs,  but  the  most  useful  are  the  salt 
springs ;  though  they  are  now  of  less  importance,  since  the  dis- 
covery of  the  valuable  salt-springs  upon  the  Kanhaway. 

The  soil  in  this  state  has  aH  the  gradations  from  the  very  best 
to  the  very  worst,  but  there  is,  upon  the  whole,  a  great  body  of 
good  soil  in  the  state.  That  part  of  it  about  Lexington  has  been 
already  noticed ;  and  the  notice  of  the  climate  there  will  also  con- 
vey an  idea  of  it  for  the  whole  central  part  of  the  state.  Towards 
the  south  and  west  it  becomes  more  warm,  to  the  north  and  east 
more  cold ;  the  climate  is,  upon  the  whole,  very  agreeable. 

Virginia  once  extended  to  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi,  and  the 
territory  of  Kentucky  then  formed  a  part  of  that  state.  It  was, 
however,  unknown  until  1 754-,  when  it  was  first  explored  by  James 
M*Bride.     In  1769,  colonel  Boone  made  further  discoveries,  and 


KENTUCKY. 


413 


in  1773  the  first  permanent  settlement  was  made  by  lilm  and  some 
others.  In  1775  the  Indian  claim  was  purchased  by  treaty;  in 
1790  Kentucky  was,  with  consent  of  Virginia,  formed  into  a  sepa- 
rate state,  and  adopted  a  state  constitution,  which  was  revised  and 
amended  in  1799.  The  state  was  admitted  into  the  union  in  1792, 
and  sends  two  senators  and  six  representatives  to  congress ;  the 
Jattcr  will  now  be  nearly  doubled,  in  consequence  of  the  increase 
of  population. 

The  state  is  divided  into  54-  counties,  and  contains,  by  last 
census,  406,511  inhabitants,  of  whom  80,561  are  slaves,  and 
ni3  are  free  persons  of  colour.  In  1800,  the  population 
was  220,955,  of  whom  40,34-3  were  slaves.  The  inhabitants 
have  thus  nearly  doubled  in  10  years,  and  now  amount  to  about 
11  per  square  mile.  As  the  emigrations  are  still  going  on,  and 
likely  to  continue,  particularly  from  the  southern  states,  the 
inhabitants  will  yet  greatly  increase,  though  probably  not  so 
rapidly  as  heretofore.  The  insecurity  of  the  land-titles,  and  the 
ilave-trade,  are  so  many  barriers  in  the  way  with  the  people  from 
the  northern  states,  from  whence  there  is  the  greatest  degree  of 
emigration ;  and  there  being  so  much  fine  land  to  the  westward, 
a  number  of  the  poorer  people  will  go  there,  where  they  can  get 
land  cheap.  However,  it  is  to  be  presumed  that  this  latter  cir- 
cumstance will  have  a  tendency  to  improve  the  morals  of  the  state, 
as  it  will  purge  it  of  many  of  the  pioneers. 

The  improvements  in  this  state  bear  testimony  to  the  industry 
of  the  inhabitants,  and  to  the  value  of  the  institutions  under  which 
they  thrive.  Besides  those  towns  that  have  been  already  noticed, 
there  are  seven  containing  400  inhabitants  and  upwards;  viz, 
Beardstown,  821 ;  Winchester,  538 ;  Russelville,  532 ;  George- 
town, 529;  Versailles,  488;  Danville,  432;  Newport,  413:  there 
are  10  containing  from  200  to  400 ;  and  13  containing  from  100 
to  200.  From  a  slight  review  of  the  state,  I  would  be  inclined 
to  value  the  accumulated  property  at  150  millions  of  dollars,  and, 
if  that  estimate  be  nearly  correct,  it  shows  that  this  people  have 
not  been  idle  during  the  last  30  years.  This  is  exclusive  of  the 
negroes.  Some  calculators  would  value  them  at  25  millions,  but 
I  do  Dot  like  to  put  a  value  on  human  flesh;  and,  indeed,  it  is 
my  opinion,  that  society,  as  Teague  says,  "  gains  a  loss  by  them,** 
in  which  case,  they  are  of  no  value  at  all. 

Agriculture  has  made  rapid  progress  in  the  state.     The  princi- 


^'^  KKSTUCKV. 

pal  pnxlucts  hnve  l)ocn  noticed,  so  u'so  have  llio  mnnufiuiiirf* 
fliK J  commerce;  ft  now  only  remnins  to  sfatc  the  outlines  of  th* 
constitution,  nnil  to  say  ft  lew  words  on  the  state  of  society. 

The  {government  consists  of  three  parts ;  legislative,  executive, 
nnd  juiliciury.  The  legislnture  consists  of  a  house  of  reprcscntii. 
tives,  tiic  members  of  which  are  chosen  annually;  and  a  seiintc, 
of  which  the  membcr.H  arc  elected  tor  four  years,  one-fourth  bciiir 
chosen  every  year.  Every  free  male  al)ovc  21  years  of  ago  has  a 
vote  for  the  representatives,  and  also  for  the  governor,  whoise- 
lected  for  four  years,  and  is  ineligible  to  fill  that  oflico  for  seven 
years  thereafter.  The  judiciary  is  vested  in  a  supreme  court,  nnd 
such  inferior  courts  as  may  be  appointed  by  law,  and  the  judges 
hold  their  offices  during  good  l)ehaviour.  The  constitution  Ac- 
clares,  among  others,  the  following  fundamental  principles;  all 
power  is  inherent  in  the  people;  all  men  have  a  right  to  worship 
God  acco-'Ting  to  the  dictates  of  their  own  consciences ;  all  dec- 
ti(ms  shall  be  free  and  equal ;  trial  by  jury  ihall  be  held  sacml ; 
printing  presses  shall  be  free.  '    '     '  * 

Socrcty  acting  under  these  principles  must  improve,  but  there 
lias  been  certain  checks  upon  the  civilization  of  Kentucky,  which 
have  no  doubt  retarded  its  progress ;  and  a  number  of  the  blem- 
ishes have  been  laid  hold  of  by  prejudiced  foreigners,  to  misrepre- 
sent the  people,  forgetting  that  the  blemishes  they  dwell  on, 
are  the  exceptions,  not  the  rule.  I  also  saw  some  of  these  ex- 
ceptions, and  I  heard  of  many.  In  the  tavern  where  we  lodged 
at  Louisville,  a  room  was  appropriated  to  a  gaming  table,  which 
tvas  kept  going  night  and  day,  w  ithout  intermission  ;  and  the  gen- 
try who  occupied  it  spoke  as  if  they  had  been  obliged  to  depose  j 
evcsry  word  upon  oath.  1  was  induced  to  look  into  it,  on  the 
suggestion  of  ray  travelling  companion,  but  I  could  not  stand  the 
scene  a  minute,  for  it  became  immediately  associated  in  my  mind 
■with  the  horrible  idea  I  had  formed  of  hell,  when  I  was  at  school 
iThe  oaths  and  imprecations  of  the  company  reminded  me  of  the 
words  attributed  to  the  damned  in  the  catechism — "  they  would 
roar,  curse,  and  blaspheme;'*  and  the  fumes  of  tobacco,  withj 
which  they  were  enveloped,  wanted  only  a  sprinkling  of  brim- 
stone to  bear  a  very  lively  resemblance  to  "  the  smoke  of  their  I 
torment  ascending  up  for  ever  and  ever."  At  Frankfort  I  saw  a 
■vagabond  in  the  penitentiary,  who  had  picked  out  his  neigliboursi 
eyes;  an^  a  man  who  sailed  down  the  river  with  us,  told  me  he 


KKNlUCkY. 


415 


c  blem- 
lisrcprc- 
^vell  on, 
lesc  ex- 
lodged 
which 
the  gen* 
depose 
on  tk 
;and  the 
ly  mind 
school 
of  the 
would 
:o,  wilh 
,f  brim- 
if  their 
11  saw  a 
fhbour's 
nielie 


iiwa  fight  in  which  the  combntanta  grupplcd  oiic  another  ^vitk 
ihcir  U'cth  :  one  lost  n  Up,  and  the  other  his  nose.  These  nrc 
ill  sail  doings,  to  he  sure  ;  but  let  it  be  remembered  that  they  irre 
onliloiie  every  day  by  trnnwiclions  in  the  cnpitui  of  a  nation,  who 
think  themselves  the  moit  polished  on  caiih,  nnil  some  of  these 
even  supported  and  cnoouragcd  by  the  "  t'oriiithian  cajntala  of 
^wlishfd  society."  ■ 

In   Kentucky,  and  indeed  in   the   western   country   gcncralK', 
tiicrc  a  vast  majority  of  civil,  discreet,  well -disposed  people,  who 
will  hold  the  lawless  and  disobedient  in  civeck,  and  in    time  cor- 
rect the  morals  of  the  whole.     Slavery  is  no  doubt  hurtlid  to  so- 
cictV)  hut  it  is  probably  more  ameliorated  in  tiiis   8taie  than  in 
Hiiv  other  part   of  the  world.     Indeed  ko  much   is  this  the  case, 
that  the  blacks  are  j^enerally  as  well  fed  nntl  nearly  as  well  clothed 
in  the  white  people;  and  it  is  (piestionable  whether  they  work  «> 
liard.    A  gentleman  of  very  excellent  information  told  nie  that  Jie 
didjwt  think  the  produce  of  their  labour  was  ecpial  to  their  main- 
tenance.     To  mo  it  appeared  that   they   were  better  fud,  better 
lodged,  and  better  clothed,  than  many  of  the  peasantry  in  Britain. 
Still,  however,  slavery,  under  any  amelioration,  is  a  bitter  draught, 
and  though  thousands  in  all  ages  have  been  made  to  drink  of  it, 
it  is  no  less  bitter  on  that  account.     "  'Tis   thou,  thrice  b-.v  et 
and  gracious  Liberty,    whom  all  in  public  or  private  worship, 
whose  taste  is  grateful,  and  ever  will  be  so,  till  Nature  herself 
•hall  change — no  tint  of  words  can  spot  thy  snowy  mantle,  or  cho 

mic  power  turn  thy  sceptre  into  iron with    thee  to  smile  upon 

him  as  he  eats  his  crust,  the  swain  is  happier  than  his  monarch, 

from  whose  court  thou  art  exiled. Gracious  Heaven  !  give  nie 

but  health,  thou  great  Ikstower  of  it,  and  give  me  but  this  f;iir 
fioddess  as  my  companion — and  shower  down  thy  mitres,  if  it 
seems  good  unto  thy  divine  providence,  upon  those  heads  which 

[are aching  for  them." Sterne. 

The  insecurity  of  land  titles  have  also  been  much  against  tlie 
htiite,  not  only  by  preventing  emigrants  of  property  from  going 
jto  it,  but  also  by  encouraging  litigation,  a  most  baneful  circuni- 
Ittance  in  any  country ;  but  it  is  to  be  remarked  that  the  legisia- 
jture  have  lately  taken  measures  to  place  this  business  on  a  solid 
land  respectable  form.  By  a  late  act  all  claims  to  land  are  onler- 
jedtobe  produced  and  put  upon  record  in  the  respective  eonntic?-,; 
had  none  will  be  admitted  that  are  not  produced  within  five  yeara 


416 


TBAVELS    IN 


after  passing  the  act.  Where  it  is  found  that  there  are  two  or 
more  claims  to  the  same  lands,  the  matter  will  be  referred  to  coni« 
misioncrs,  to  be  appointed  by  the  legislature.  In  the  mean  time 
all  transfers  of  property  are  recorded  in  the  county  books,  which 
will  continue  to  be  the  case  hereafter,  and  prevent  all  confusion. 
Being  sprung  from  the  state  of  Virginia,  the  manners  of  that 
people  have  given  the  tone  to  those  of  this  state,  which  appears 
in  a  spirit  of  high  independence,  quick  temper,  and  frank  gene- 
rosity. The  only  serious  evil  that  I  had  to  complain  of  in  my  jour* 
ney  through  the  country  arose  from  the  proneness  of  many  of  the 
natives  to  swearing.  This  vice  is  too  common,  and  though  'tis 
true  that  "  it  will  neither  break  a  man's  leg,  nor  pick  his  pocket," 
yet  it  may  stun  his  ears  most  unmercifully.  This  was  literally 
the  case  with  me ;  I  found  the  country  as  bad,  in  that  respect,  as 
Ireland  itselfl  Indeed  it  appears  to  me  that  there  is  a  considcra^ 
ble  similitude  between  the  Irish  people  and  the  Virginians,  in  j 
more  respects  than  this :  frank,  affable,  polite,  and  hospitable  in  j 
a  high  degree,  they  are  quick  in  their  temper,  sudden  in  their  re- 
sentment, and  warm  in  all  their  affections. 


■  ,1..! 


:'  '*■•„ 


''V'- 


CHAPTER  LXXXIII.  , 

Cross  the  Ohio, — West  Union, — Bainbridge, — Chillicothe. 


By  the  time  I  was  ready  to  leave  Limestone,  it  was  12  o'clock' 
and  it  was  now  warm  and  delightful.  On  reaching  the  river  side, 
I  perceived  that  the  water  had  risen  about  three  feet  since  I  pass-l 
cd  this  place  before ;  and  from  the  motion  of  a  skiff  in  the  middlel 
of  the  stream,  1  judged  that  the  current  was  now  about  two  milesl 
an  hour.  We  crossed  by  a  flat.  The  river  was  beautiful,  andj 
was  enlivened  by  a  great  number  of  boats  and  skiffs. 

HavinT  reached  the  Oliio  side,  we  perceived  that  the  state  roadi 
rose  abruptly  up  a  steep  hill,  and  were  informed  that  another  roadI 
to  the  left  wound  round  the  hill,  through  a  pleasant  valley.  >Vc| 
took  it.  The  scenery  here  was  bold  and  rich,  the  hills  on  eaclil 
side  being  about  200  feet  high^  covered  by  a  rich  vegetable  mould 
and  clad  with  a  profusion  of  timber,  consisting  chiefly  of  oak,| 
walnut,  chesnut,  sugar  maple,  ciifciry,  honey  locust,  &c. 

Two  miles  from  the  river  we  passed  a  countryman  with  a  lead 


rimv  of  the  VOUITTKY 
round  the 
FALL.S  of  :XIAGARA 


\0 

Irs*] 


t.> 


Uf^ 


Mm**^*^' 


Chipp'^^'V 


pOTtE 


/i/CJRf 


f>;/i  /i: 


-i' 


of  cyder,  of  whi 
He  told  lis  he  v 
country  remarkal 
I  found  my  tni 
a  wallet  over  bis 
and  horse;  but 
^Y-v  ^M  meet  with  a  dist 

cheap  rate.     "We 
quire^  but  there  v 
however,  that  we 
our  course  throug 
£stillery,  we  halt 
the  bottle  from  his 
peach  brandy  in 
was  much  better  t 
a  little  when  we  p 
being  a  litt' '  ove* 
water,  and  Q-     a 
us,  her  fauii  ,   v  - 
try  remarkably  wc 
a  kvf  years  befor 
planted  from  the  si 
paid  the  landlady  i 
on  through  a  fine  f 
a  beautiful  stream, 
proposed  we  shouh 
interest  in  any  of 
which  I  had  paid  tl 
passively  agreed.  ^ 
I  gave  it  water  at  th 
emptied  the  one  eu* 
the  grass,  to  the  h 
he  drew  forth  from 
I  cheese,  and  biscuit, 
him,  and  made  a  V( 
smiling  around  us ; 
heads;  the  pure  wa 
h^side;  and  the 


OHIO. 


417 


of  cyder,  of  which  we  partook,  and  found  the  quality  excellent. 
He  told  lis  he  was  from  the  state  of  New  York,  and  liked  this 
country  remarkably  well,  chiefly  on  account  of  the  mild  winters. 

I  found  my  travelling  companion  was  an  economist.  He  had 
a  wallet  over  his  saddle,  in  which  he  carried  provender  for  man 
and  horse;  but  he  told  me  his  bottle  was  dry,  and  wished  to 
meet  with  a  distillery,  where  he  might  get  it  replenished  at  a 
cheap  rate.  We  passed  a  peach  orchard,  and  he  stopped  to  in- 
quire, but  there  was  no  distillery,  there.  The  people  informed  us, 
however,  that  we  would  find  one  a  mile  further  on.  We  pursued 
our  course  through  a  beautiful  romantic  valley,  and,  reaching  the 
distillery,  we  halted,  and  went  into  the  house.  My  friend  drew 
the  bottle  from  his  wallet,  and  told  the  landlady  to  put  a  quart  of 
peach  brandy  in  it.  While  she  was  gone,  he  observed  thai  this 
was  much  better  than  to  drink  it  in  the  house,  as  we  could  take 
a  little  when  we  pleased,  and  paid  only  half  price  for  it  There 
being  a  litt'  -  over  ofter  filling  the  bottle,  we  drank  it  diluted  with 
water,  and  ^V  a  the  quality  excellent.  The  landlady  informed 
us,  her  faui;  /  >  r^e  from  Pennsylvania,  and  they  liked  this  coun- 
try remarkably  well.  Their  peach-orchard  had  been  planted  only 
a  few  years  before,  and  was  in  a  floqrishing  state.  Peach-trees 
planted  from  the  stone  come  to  maturity  in  three  years.  Having 
paid  the  landlady  a  quarter  of  a  dollar  for  the  brandy,  we  moved 
on  through  a  fine  fertile  country,  and,  passing  near  Eagle  creek, 
a  beautiful  stream,  we  came  to  a  fine  spring,  where  my  friend 
proposed  we  should  halt  and  take  sorhe  refreshment  I  had  no 
interest  in  any  of  the  provisions,  except  tiie  peach-brandy,  of 
which  I  had  paid  the  half;  but  I  was  inclined  to  be  sociable,  and 
passively  agreed.  My  friend  alighted,  stripped  his  horse,  and 
gave  it  water  at  the  spring.  I  followed  his  example.  He  then 
emptied  the  one  end  of  the  wallet  of  its  contents,  being  oats,  upon 
the  grass,  to  the  horses ;  and  sitting  down  on  the  grass  himsclt| 
he  drew  forth  from  the  other  end  a  piece  of  bacon,  some  bread, 
cheese,  and  biscuit,  and  inviting  me  to  partake,  I  sat  down  beside 
him,  and  made  a  very  pleasant  repast.  The  face  of  nature  was 
smiling  around  us ;  the  lofty  trees  spread  their  branches  over  our 
heads;  the  pure  water  issued  from  the  fountain*  and  gurgled  b^ 
our  side;   and  the  feathered  choristers  delighted  our  ears  with 


*^ 


if 


Sr--' 


418  TRAVF.I.S   IM 

their  song,  and  our  eyes  with  their  beautiful  plumage.    I  was 
charmed  with  this  new  country.* 

*  Soon  after  my  return  to  New  York,  I  was  informing  a  Scottish  friend  there  ef 
some  of  my  adventures  in  the  western  country.  His  attention  was  arrested  hj  the 
tyme  of  EaglC'Cree/c,  which,  he  told  me,  was  the  place  he  intended  to  go  on  first  land- 
ing in  the  country.  He  then  put  into  my  hands  a  letter  from  a  Scotsman,  settled  in 
the  western  country,  to  a  number  of  his  countrymen,  which  contains  so  many  s«nsib!t 
remarks,  that  I  am  tempted  to  insert  it  here,  verbatim  et  literotim:— 

Lexington,  November  4,  1805, 
Dear  Friends  and  CouKTiivMEif, 

I  received  yours  of  the  6th  of  July  ;  and  what  follows  will,  I  hope,  be  a  satisfac- 
tory answer  to  all  your  queries.  The  general  price  of  land  here^  at  its  first  settlement, 
16  from  two  to  three  dollars.  Land  sold  by  congress  is  two  dollars,  to  be  paid  in  five 
years.  The  manner  of  clearing  is  to  cut  down  all  the  timber  below  a  foot  thick,  sod 
to  notch  the  heavy  timber  all  round  :  thus  the  growth  is  stopped,  and  the  land  being 
every  year  laboured,  the  roots  gradually  die,  and  are  torn  out ;  so  that,  in  a  few  yean, 
ike  whole  field  is  cleared.  Unless  what  is  used  in  fencing,  and  building,  and  fuel,  and 
such  purposes,  all  the  wood  is  l)urnt  upon  the  ground.  In  the  most  of  places,  wood 
is  no  more  tlioiight  of  than  heath  and  rushes  are  with  you.  Two  men,  who  are  ordi- 
narily expert  at  hewing  wood,  can  easily,  in  two  months,  clear  as  much  land  u  will 
produce  food  suflicient  for  the  support  of  a  family  of  six  or  eight  for  a  whole  year.  It 
is  usual  for  those  whe  bring  families  to  settle,  to  rent  a  house  and  a  piece  of  clear  land 
for  a  year  or  so,  till  they  have  time  to  look  about  them,  make  a  convenient  purchase, 
and  get  a  house  of  their  oVvn  raised,  l^e  first  houses  which  are  built  upon  a  plantation 
are  usually  raised  in  little  more  than  a  week  or  two.  They  are,  indeed,  not  very  ele- 
gant, but  they  do  very  well  for  a  year  or  so,  till  the  family  has  time  to  build  a  better^ 
The  people  are  every  ^herc  exceedingly  kind  and  obliging  to  new  comers,  and  rendu 
them  all  the  comfort  and  assistance  in  theiiTpower ;  they  have  all  oncie  known,  in  th«ir 
own  case,  what  it  is  to  be  strangers.  There  are  at  no  times  any  thing  like  a  market 
for  produce,  such  as  that  in  the  old  country,  but  there  is  always  some  little  market, 
Gometimes  better,  and  sometimes  worse.  The  situation  of  society,  however,  is  such, 
that  very  little  casli  is  needed.  Every  lamily  who  has  the  least  industry  may,  after  the 
second  or  third  year,  easily  raise  within  itself  almost  every  thing  that  is  necessary^ 
Salt  and  Iron,  and  the  taxes  of  government,  which  are  by  no  means  heavy,  are  almost 
the  only  things  for  which  men  need  to  give  money.  Men's  persons  and  properties  vt 
here  as  safe  as  in  any  part  of  the  world ;  while  liberty,  civil  aind  religious,  is  fully  en- 
joyed; Liw  and  justice  arc  strictly  and  impartially  executed.  Snakes,  and  such  like,  are  I 
here  no  more  dangeroua  than  in  Carnwathmuir.  In  all  my  wanderings  I  h"c  ^"^ 
seen  above  half  a  dozen  snakes,  nor  met  with  many  more  who  have  been  bit  by  thenL- 
When  any  are  bit  by  them,  they  have  always  a  simple  and  efficacious  cure  at  hani— 
Indians,  where  they  are  t«>  be  seen,  are  equally  harmless.  Unless  it  is  along  some  of  the 
large  rivers,  where  the  people  are^  at  certain  seasons,  liable  to  the  fever  and  ague,  the 
country  is  every  where  healthy  ;  the  people  in  general  live  as  long,  and  are  sulqect  t« 
as  few  diseases  as  they  are  in  Scotland.  The  wcatlier,  in  the  summer,  is  coP'iderabl; 
hotter  than  it  is  at  home ;  but  neither  I,  nor  my  partner,  have  found  it  the  least  dis-  j 
agreeable.  "We  have  only  worn  our  clothes  a  little  lighter,  and  have  kept  in  the  house. 
«r  the  shade,  a  few  hours  while  it  was  hottest.    To  be  out  in  the  evenings  and  mornin|s  I 


omo. 


419 


Having  finished  our  repast,  we  resumed  our  journey,  and  tra^ 
TcUed  through  a  rich    soil  to   West  Union,  17  miles  from  the 

u  most  delightful.  A  brewer  or  a  smith  along  with  you  will  be  a  valuable  acquisition. 
Eacb  of  these  branches  can  be  carriecT  on  with  considerable  profit  I  could  fill  sheets 
in  prtise  of  the  country,  but  there  is  nothing  like  fact.  I  am  acquainted  with  hundred) 
wbo  came  here  within  these  twenty  years,  with  nothing  more  than  a  sound  constitution, 
ind  ui  industrious  disposition,  who  have  raised  large  families,  and  are  now  living  in 
eueaod  affluence.  I  would  recoipmend  unto  you  to  come  and  settle  upon  Eaulb 
ciiK,  Adams  county,  State  of  Ohio,  al>out  100  miles  nearer  you  than  Lexington. 
In  that  quarter  there  is  plenty  of  good  vacant  land.  The  length  of  the  journey  there 
is  from  Philadelphia  or  Baltimore  to  Pittsburg  30U  miles;  then  aboat  as  much  |iy 
water  down  the  river  Ohio.  In  preparing  fur  such  a  long  journey,  dispose  of  every 
tliiDg  you  have,  except  your  body  and  bed-clothes.  The  latter  end  of  July,  or  the 
bfginning  of  August,  is  the  best  time  to  set  sail.  If  the  war  contiiiuci,  take  an 
American  bottom.  It  makes  very  little  matter  whether  you  sail  for  Baltimore  or  Phi« 
yelphia.  If  you  cannot  find  a  convenient  passage  for  one  of  these,  Newcastle,  or 
Wilmington,  or  some  other  place  upon  the  Delaware  river,  is  the  next  best  sliift.  In 
packing  up  your  clothes,  it  will  be  much  to  your  advantage  to  have  them  put  into  as 
light  trunks,  or  chests,  as  possible,  and  to  pack  them  very  hard.  Make  your  agreement 
mth  the  captain,  that  you  furnish  your  own  provisions,  water  excepted ;  and  see  that  a 
nfficient  stock  of  water  is  laid  in,  and  that  it  bo  put  into  well-seasoned  vessels.  When 
you  have  got  about  half  way,  it  is  likely  that  the  seamen,  with  consent  of  the  captain, 
may  set  apart  a  few  hours  to  make  themselves  merry,  by  working  some  antic  tricks  upon 
you.  If  they  take  this  liberty,  by  no  means  resent, — take  a  laugh  also ;  they  hurt  no- 
body. Being  arrived  in  Philadelphia,  let  it  be  your  first  thing  to  inquire  for  Scots- 
men :  from  them  you  will  receive  a  great  deal  of  useful  information.  If  you  land  at 
Bahimore,  ask  for  the  Rev.  Kol)crt  Aiion.  Our  church  at  Pliiladelphja  is  4t  present 
Ticant;  but  there  is  a  Mr.  Miller,  «  mason,  a  Scotsman,  who  will  be  exceeding  hnppy 
to  aee  you.  I  cannot  tell  you  where  he  lives,  but  there  is  not  a  shopkeeper  but  has  a 
printed  list  of  all  the  principal  inhabitants,  lliere  are  waggons  continually  passing 
from  these  parts  to  Pittsburgh  ;  make  the  bo^t  bargain  you  can  witli  one  or  more  of 
these  waggons  to  carry  your  women  and  children,  and  the  men  of  you  may  travel  on 
foot.  Set  off  in  company  with  one  of  these  carriers'  waggons.  You  will  usually  tra- 
vel twenty  miles  a- day.  When  you  pas^  market- towns,  purchase  a  little  provisions  for 
yourselves  and  horses.  When  you  have  advanced  about  60  or  100  miles,  the  road  will 
grow  rougher,  which  will  likely  render  it  neces.sary  to  purchase  one  or  two  more  horses. 
By  this  time  you  will  have  fallen  in  with  other  families  in  the  same  situation  with  your  •• 
wires.  You  will  find  the  people  every  where  very  freely  disposed  to  ask  every  thing, 
and  tell  you  every  thing.  The  sooner  you  get  into  their  manner,  it  will  be  the  more 
tdrantage  to  you  ;  but  be  always  upon  your  guard  against  knaves.  You  will  find  a 
great  many  difl91culties  and  inconveniencies ;  but  with  a  good  spirit,  and  an  indulgent 
Heaven,  every  thing  becomes  ea^y.  Your  expences  will  depend  a  great  deal  upon  lit- 
tle incidents,  which  human  eye  cannot  foresee  ;  but  if,  after  you  have  discharged  all 
your  accounts  about  Greenock,  you  have  the  one-half  remaining,  I  think  you  will  hava 
>  sufficiency ;  and,  upon  the  word  of  an  honest  man,  I  positively  give  it  as  my  opinion, 
•lut,  though  you  were  to  lay  out  every  farthing  of  your  money,  if  it  brought  you  in 
kealth  to  your  destination,  you  will  be  considerable  <;ain«rs.     I  don't  think  it  will  suit 


'■?'  ■'•('■  *iii 
,1  ,;,,!  Hfwli; 


Ufl'^i, 


420 


TRAVELS  IN 


Ohio  river,  where  we  stopped  all  night,  and  had  excellent  ac* 
commodations. 

The  scite  of  West  Union  was  appropriated  by  the  legislature 
of  the  state  of  Ohio,  for  the  scat  of  justice  for  Adams  county, 
and  110  acres  of  ground  were  purchased,  at  8  dollars  per  acre. 
It  was  divided  into  streets,  and  lots  of  one  third  of  an  acre,  and 
out  lots  of  2  acres ;  with  a  reserve  of  4  lots  for  the  use  of  the 
public  building*,  and  one  on  a  spring  of  fine  water  for  an  academy. 
The  lots  were  resold  at  from  6  to  78  dollars  each  ;  the  out-lots 
for  about  40  dollars  each.  The  whole  realized  S307  dollars, 
which,  after  defraying  expenses,  went  into  the  county  treasury. 
The  town  was  laid  out  in  1804,  and  now  consists  of  32  dwelling- 
houses,  and  contains  224  inhabitants.  The  public  buildings  area 
court-house,  meeting  house,  jail,  and  school.  There  are  3  taverns 
find  3  stores.  The  town  is  principally  composed  of  mechania 
and  their  families,  who  are  all  doing  well. 

Land  in  the  neighbourhood  is  generally  good,  and  is  well  water- 
ed, abounding  in  springs.  This  is  on  the  Virginia  military  tract, 
which  continues  all  the  way  to  Chillicothe ;  and  in  which  land,  in 
the  unimproved  state,  sells  for  about  2  dollars  per  acre. 

The  country  is  all  perfectly  healthy,  no  instance  having  occur- 
red of  bilious  fever,  or  fever  and  ague.  Four  great  state  roads  cen- 
tre at  this  place,  which  are  a  great  accommodation  to  the  inhabi- 
tants. We  were  informed,  that  5  acres  of  land  in  the  neighbour- 
hood produced  21  waggon  loads  of  grain,  and  that  provisions  were 
plenty  and  reasonable ;  beef,  of  an  excellent  quality,  being  at  2 
dollars  50  cents  per  cwt.  Boarding  in  taverns  is  ^  dollars  per  week. 

The  country  abounds  in  springs  of  good  water,  iron  ore,  and 
free-stone.     Sheep  have  increased,  and  there  is  a  good  supply  of  | 
wool,  of  which  the  inhabitants  make  a  vaiiety  of  domestic  manu- 
flicturcs.     They  also  manufacture  flax  and  cotton. 

October  3d.  We  set  out  on  our  journey  at  6  o'clock ;  but,  mis- 
men  in  your  situation  to  lay  out  any  of  your  money  in  speculation,  upon  trading  articles; 
but  you  nuiy  consult  with  the  merchants  in  Greenock.  You  must  likewise  observe  to 
hare  the  money  you  bringinto  America  changed  into  dollars  or  gold  coin.  Take  care 
and  secure  your  liquor  well,  else  the  sailors  will  use  it  as  a  commvn  stock.  If  any  of 
you  are  skilllS  ip  music,  &  fiddle,  or  some  such  instrument,  to  raise  the  spirits,  will  be 
s  valuable  piece  of  furniture.  Keep  as  much  above  deck  as  possible.  I  commend  you 
all  to  the  care  of  the  God  of  Abraham,  who  went  out  not  knowing  whether ;  and  re* 

Biain,  dear  brethren, 

ROBERT  HAMILTON  BISHOP 


OHIO.  '  421 

taking  our  road,  we  travelled  several  miles  out  of  our  way,  when 
«c  were  put  right  by  a  countryman,  who  was  taking  his  morning 
walk  with  a  rifle  in  his  hand.  We  found  the  country  very  rich ; 
the  trees  principally  oak,  walnut,  poplar,  and  sugar -maple. 

Hoving  regained  the  proper  road,  which  we  found  a  very  good 
one,  we  travelled  through  a  very  beautiful  country,  to  a  branch  of 
Brush  creek,  where  the  road  forks.;  that  to  the  right  hand  winding 
op  a  pretty  steep  and  high  hill ;  we  took  the  left,  and  arrived  to 
breakfast  at  the  house  of  a  family  of  ^^  name  of  Allen,  from  Ar- 
magh, Ireland.  From  thence  we  travelled  through  a  good  soil, 
six  miles,  the  next  eight  being  rather  light  and  sandy,  to  the 
Sinking  springs,  so  called  from  a  large  spring  of  pure  water  which 
rises  and  disappears  several  times,  and  finally  issues  from  the  brow 
of  a  hill.  Here  Mr.  Heistant,  a  German,  owns  a  fine  farm,  atid 
keeps  a  tavern,  and  my  fellow-traveller  purchased  a  quantity  of  oats 
for  the  horses,  on  which,  like  the  peach-brandy,  he  made  a  saving 
of  50  per  cent. 

Two  miles  from  Heistant's  we  had  dinner  in  the  same  style  we 
had  yesterday.  I  was  quite  pleased  with  the  novelty  of  the  thuig, 
and  my  taste  and  that  of  my  companion  were  well  suited  to  each 
other.  I  could  eat  no  fat  pork,  and  he  liked  the  fat  best ;  so  he 
ate  all  the  fat  and  I  got  all  the  loan ;  and  having  drank  out  of  the 
pure  fountain  of  water,  at  which  we  halted,  we  resumed  our  jour- 
ney. ..  .... 

We  had  not  travelled  far  when  we  were  joined  by  a  new  settler 
of  the  name  of  Smith,  from  Virginia,  who  told  us  he  was  in 
quest  of  some  stray  cows.  He  was  a  young  man,  newly  married, 
and  had  purchased  a  farm  of  100  acres,  for  two  dollars  per  acre, 
on  an  unlimited  credit,  but  he  had  to  pay  interest  after  the  second 
year.  Being  w  out  capital,  he  hires  himself  out  part  of  his  time, 
and  clears  a  lititv,  of  his  own  property  as  he  can  get  it  overtaken. 
In  this  way,  I  have  no  doubt  but  he  will  be  very  comfortably  situ- 
ated on  his  farm  of  100  acres,  in  the  course  of  a  few  years. 

After  parting  with  Mr.  Smith,  we  passed  over  a  pretty  high  hill, 
from  whence  we  had  a  rich  view  of  great  extent,  but  it  was  chec- 
quered  by  the  trees,  whicii  detracted  from  the  distinctness  of  vision, 
while  it  exhibited  a  greater  variety.  Having  descended  the  hill, 
we  passed  through  a  fertile  bottom,  and  reached  Bainbridge,  38 
miles  from  West  Union,  at  dark,  where  we  stopped  all  night. 

Bainbridge  is  quite  a  new  town,  consisting  of  12  or  1^  houtioi 


:| 


h  WW 


'WJ 


422  THAVELS    IN 

only.  The  inhabitants  are  mostly  from  Pennsylvania,  Kentucky, 
New  England,  and  Ireland.  Bottom  land  round  this  KelU  for 
nine  doUarit  per  acre  {  the  high  lands  are  from  two  to  four  doliun, 

October  4th,  we  set  out  at  half  past  five  o'clock,  and  having 
travelled  a  mile,  cam«  up  with  a  Mr.  Shelby,  from  Pickaway  Plains; 
and  as  he  was  travelling  the  same  road  with  us,  we  kept  company, 
and  I  availed  myself  of  the  opportunity  to  procure  some  little  in- 
formation regarding  that  district. 

He  told  me  there  was  a  good  road  on  the  east  side  of  the  Scioto, 
through  the  plains  to  Franklinton,  round  which  there  was  a 
fine  country,  settling  up  rapidly.  The  plains  are  large  meadows, 
without  timber,  having  a  rich  soil,  and  are  easy  of  cultivation. 
They  have  had  some  little  bilious  fever  and  fever  and  ague  this 
summer,  but  the  country  was  generally  healthy.  A  road  leads 
from  Franklinton  to  Newark,  tlirough  a  level  country,  covered 
with  beech  wood,  and  is  often  muddy.  The  land  is  good  all  the 
way  from  the  plains  to  Lake  Erie,  and  <  the  banks  of  the  lake, 
about  Sandusky  bay,  is  a  fine  fertile  cou    ry. 

We  travelled  through  a  tract  of  very  iich  bottom "  land,  along 
the  banks  of  Paint  creek,  seven  miles,  and  a  mile  beyond  this  we 
came  to  a  tavern  on  a  rising  ground,  where  we  stopped  to  break* 
fast. 

Lands  in  the  neighbourhood  sell  at  six  dollars  per  acre,  and  are 
settling  very  fast ;  the  country,  however,  is  a  little  subject  to  fever 
and  ague ;  but  as  the  settlements  progress,  it  will  be  drained,  and 
become  healthy.  In  passing  along  we  saw  some  new  stone  buildings, 
and  having  crossed  the  river  Paint  we  ascended  a  pretty  high  hill, 
on  the  summit  of  which  is  a  most  elegant  stone  building,  belonging 
to  Col.  M^Arthur.  Having  passed  this  we  came  in  view  of  Chil* 
licothe,  18  miles  from  Bainbridge,  at  which  we  arrived  about  mid- 
day, and  I  took  up  my  lodgings  at  Buchanan's  excellent  tavern: 
my  friend  pursued  his  journey  towards  Zanesville. 

A  ihort  time  after  I  arrived  the  dinner  bell  rang,  and  I  re( 
to  the  dinner  table,  where  I  found  12  or  14  very  respectable  gen- 
tlemen seated,  and  there  was  a  plentiful  store  of  provisions.  Afur 
dinner  I  took  a  walk  through  the,  town,  and  ascended  a  hill  to  the 
west,  about  300  feet  high,  where  I  had  a  fine  view  of  the  improve- 
mentis,  of  the  river,  and  of  the  surrounding  country.  In  the 
evening  I  made  the  necessary  inquiries  for  facilitating  the  business 
«(f  the  ensuing  day.  , ,  _^,       .  ^    . 


OHIO, 


4*^3 


CHAPTER  LXXXIV. 

Ckillicothe, — Chillicothe  district^ — Virginia  military  lands. 

October  5th.  I  had  by  this  time  got  so  much  into  the  habit 
of  pursuing  my  researches,  that  it  became  a  source  of  real  enjoy- 
ment, and  I  found  tlic  people  so  civil  and  discreet,  and  so  well  dis- 
posed to  give  information,  that  I  felt  no  difficulty  in  applying  to 
them,  whether  I  had  a  letter  of  introduction  or  not.  I  had  nons 
to  Chillicothe,  and  I  did  not  feel  the  want  of  it. 

After  an  early  breakfast  I  waited  upon  Mr.  Spencer,  at  the 
United  States  land  office,  where  I  spent  the  greater  part  of  the 
day;  and  to  that  gentleman's  politeness  and  attention  I  was  princi- 
pally indebted  for  the  information  arranged  under  the  respective 
heads  in  this  chapter. 

Chillicothe  is  situated  on  an  extensive  level  plain,  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Scioto  river,  which,  by  making  a  bend,  bounds  tha 
town  on  the  north,  and  the  out-lots  on  the  east.  It  is  laid  out  on 
a  pretty  large  scale,  and  n  great  number  of  out-lots  are  attached 
to  it.  Tlie  plan  is  regular,  the  streets  crossing  one  another  at 
right  angles,  and  every  square  is  divided  into  four  parts  by  lanes 
crossing  one  another  also  at  right  angles,  and  at  equal  distances  be- 
tween the  streets.  This  must  be  a  great  advantage,  as  it  gives  the 
possessor  of  every  lot  a  back  entry.  The  streets  are  66  feet  wide, 
the  alleys  16^;  the  lots  contain  four  acres  each. 

Chillicothe  was  one  of  the  first  settled  towns  in  the  state  of  Ohio, 
and  was  for  a  considerable  time  the  seat  of  government;  it  now 
consists  of  about  250  houses,  and  contains  1 360  inhabitants,  of 
whom  126  are  free  people  of  colour. 

The  public  buildings  are  a  court-house,  jail,  academy,  three 
churches,  and  a  market-house.  There  are  two  rope  walks,  one 
cotton  factory,  one  wool  factory,  one  nail  factory,  one  pottery 
several  distilleries,  and  four  tan  yards ,  and  these  are  all  thriving 
establishments.  There  are  good  mechanics  in  all  the  other  branch- 
es calculated  for  the  country.  There  are  six  taverns  and  19  stores; 
and  this  is  a  very  general  market  for  the  surplus  produce  of  the 
country,  consisting  mostly  of  flour,  of  an  excdUent^quality,  pork,  &c. 

Mechanics,  manufacturers,  and  labourers  are  all  well  paid,  hav- 
ing from  75  cents  to  one  dollar  50  cents  r^ier  day,  and  sQch  is  the 


I  .  )% 


424 


THAVELS    IN 


]ow  price  of  provisions,  that  the  expense  of  living  iv  little  more 
than  a  third  of  what  it  is  in  the  eastern  states.  A  few  of  the 
prices  may  be  mentioned ;  flour  4  dollars  per  barrel,  pork  2  dol- 
lars  50  cents  per  cwt.,  fowls  6^  cents  each ;  beef,  mutton,  and  veal, 
3  to  3i  cents  per  lb.  The  principal  branches  of  manufacture 
that  are  most  susceptible  of  improvement  are  hemp,  cotton,  and 
wool ;  and  glass,  connected  with  beer  and  porter  brewing  could  be 
established  to  advantage. 

A  great  proportion  of  the  inhabitants  are  from  Virginia  and 
Maryland,  and  a  number  from  Pcnnsylvannia ;  there  are  but 
few  New  Englanders  or  foreigners.  They  are  reputed  to  be  sober 
and  industrious,  and  are  generally  well  informed.  Education  is 
pretty  well  attended  to,  and  I  observed  that  they  were  by  no 
means  indifferent  politicians.  It  was  on  the  eve  of  an  election  ; 
there  are  three  newspapers  in  the  place,  and  they  were  all  hard 
at  work  in  support  of  their  respective  friends  or  favourites,  as  can* 
didates  for  the  assembly.  I  like  to  see  men  take  an  active  interest 
in  the  public  concerns  of  the  country.  The  phrase  "  he  is  a 
peaceable  man,  and  never  meddles  with  politics,"  is  no  great 
compliment  to  the  inhabitant  of  a  free  country.  Public  aifiiirs 
must  be  managed  by  somebody,  and  to  say  that  people  are  in- 
different  as  to  who  that  may  be,  is,  in  other  words,  to  say  they 
liave  no  patriotism,  nor  care  about  the  public  welfare.  The  du- 
ties of  an  active  politician  and  a  peaceable  citizen  are  surely  com- 
patible. Let  him  support  the  candidate  of  his  choice  by  all  the 
activity  in  his  power;  but  let  this  be  done  with  integrity  and  with 
justice  to  his  opponent ;  let  him  adhere  strictly  to  the  truth,  and  j 
avoid  calumny :  and  after  the  election,  when  the  voice  of  the 
majority  has  expressed  who  the  rulers  shall  be,  let  these  have  the 
undivided  support  of  the  community,  till  next  election. 

Chillicothe  District  is  bounded  by  Canton  district  on  the  north;! 
by  Zaaesville  district,  and  the  Ohio  company's  purchase  on  the 
cast;    by  the  Ohio  river  south;    and  by  the  Virginia  miiitarjf 
lauds  on  the  west ;  which  are  divided  from  Chillicothe  district  by 
the  Scioto  river.     The  length  from  north  to  south  is  145  miles, 
and  the  breadth  from   east   to  west  42;    it  contains  about  ^000 
square  miles,  or  about  3,200,000  acres.     The  northern  part,  be- 
ing nearly  one-third  of  this  district,  is  part  of  the   United  Statct  j 
military  lands,  and  is  generally  a  good  soil.     Part  of  it  is  level | 
and  marshy ;  but  it  is  free  fram  swamps,  and,  being  nearly  all  ap- 


OHIO.  425 

proprlatcd  to  agriculture,  will  soon  be  drained  and  healthy.  It 
abounds  witk  springs  of  excellent  water,  and  numerous  rivulets. 
To  the  south  of  this  runs  a  stripe  of  land  about  three  miles  broad, 
and  42  miles  lung,  which  was  appropriated  to  the  relief  of  such 
at  iiad  to  abandon  their  settlements  in  the  time  of  the  war,  and 
take  refuge  in  other  places,  and  is  thence  called  refugee  land.  It 
\i  also  good  land,  but  there  is  a  large  swamp  in  the  middle 
of  it,  between  Walnut  creek,  a  branch  of  the  Scioto,  and 
Licking  creek,  a  branch  of  the  Muskingum.  From  thence  to 
Chillicothe  is  an  undulating  country,  abounding  in  hill  and  dale, 
and  so  continues  to  the  Ohio,  the  hills  incicnsing  in  size  as  the 
country  approaches  that  river.  The  soil  is  in  general  good 
throughout  the  whole  tract,  the  best  of  it  being  along  the  Ohio 
and  Scioto  rivers,  which  for  that  reason  has  the  greatest  number 
of  settlements ;  but  the  whole  is  settling  rapidly.  There  arc  large 
beds  of  limestone  and  freestone  in  the  district,  and  these  are  in- 
terspersed with  beds  of  clay,  which  retain  the  water,  and  this  cir- 
cumstance gives  the  country  a  preference  over  Kentucky.  Iron 
ore  is  plenty,  and  it  is  supposed  the  hills  abound  with  coal. 

The  whole  is  well  watered,  abounding  in  springs  and  small 
streams,  having  excellent  situations  for  mill  seats ;  the  Ohio 
washes  it  on  the  south,  a  distance  of  60  miles ;  and  the  Scioto 
washes  it  on  the  west  its  whole  length.  The  Scioto  is  a  very 
beautiful  stream.  It  rises  about  60  miles  to  the  north-west  of  this 
district,  within  a  few  miles  of  the  Sandusky  river,  and  pursuing  a 
south-east  course,  passes  the  Indian  boundary  line,  from  whence 
it  runs  nearly  a  south  direction,  about  50  miles ;  and  at  Fraiik- 
linton  forms  a  junction  with  a  fine  stream  called  Whetstone  river. 
South  uf  this  about  10  or  12  miles  it  receives  the  waters  of  Big 
Bell)''s  creek,  composed  of  Walnut  creek  and  Alum  creek,  and 
thence  runs  nearly  south,  receiving,  in  its  progress  from  the  west, 
Derby  creek.  Deer  creek,  and  Paint  creek  ;  from  the  cast.  Low- 
er Walnut  creek,  Sippo  creek,  and  Salt  creek ;  besides  a  great 
number  of  small  streams ;  and,  thus  augmented,  it  falls  into  the 
Ohio,  70  miles  by  water,  and  45  by  land,  below  Chillicothe.  The 
river  has  a  fine  gentle  current,  throughout  its  whole  course,  and 
is  navigable  for  keel- boats  to  Chillicothe,  and  for  smaller  craft 
nearly  to  its  source.  There  are  several  mineral  springs  in  the  dis» 
Irict;  the  chief  are  a  salt  spring,  end  a  sulphur  spriBg,  not  far 
from  Chillicothe. 

54 


fa  1 


p  m^^^ 


426  TRAVELS     IK 

This  district  is  fiLcIy  limbered ;  the  principal  kinds  arc  oik 
hickory,  nsli,  sugar-maple,  chesnut,  honey-locust,  walnut,  &c.  ■ 
and  the  soil  is  kindly  to  the  raising  of  fruits,  vegetables,  grain, 
and  grass. 

Land  is  very  various  in  price,  according  to  situation  and  quoli* 
ty.  Hie  United  States'  lands  are  two  dollars  per  acre,  witli  four 
years  to  pay  them ;  or  if  purchased  for  cash,  1  dollar  64>  cents. 
A  good  deal  of  the  best  of  these  are  picked  up,  but  many  desira* 
l)lc  tracts  yet  remain;  and  from  the  unquestionable  security  of 
the  land-titles,  they  generally  meet  with  a  preference.  The  bot- 
tom lands  are  nearly  all  engrossed  by  individuals,  and  arc  resold 
as  high  as  they  can.  The  average  price  for  uncleared  land,  in  the 
bottoms,  is  about  five  or  six  dollars  per  acre.  Farms  of  land, 
partly  improved,  are  constantly  in  the  market,  at  from  two  to  six 
dollars,  according  to  the  quality  of  the  soil,  and  the  value  of  the 
improvements.  Horses  sell  for  40  to  80  dollars;  cows  10  to  12 
dollars;  sheep  2  dollars  each. 

This  district  contains  part  of  10  counties,  and  the  inhabitants 
may  be  estimated  at  about  30,000,  who  have  all  settled  here  with- 
in 25  years ;  and  the  population  is  likely  to  increase  very  fast,  par- 
ticularly  on  the  banks  of  the  Scioto,  where  the  seat  of  government 
will  be  ultimately  fixed,  the  site  of  it  being  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river,  nearly  opposite  to  Franklinton. 

The  lands  in  this  district  are  rated,  in  the  state  books,  nearly 
as  follows,  whence  some  idea  may  be  formed  of  the  soil :  in  100 
parts,  4  are  of  1st  rate,  52  2d  rate,  and  4i4i  3d  rate :  but  it  is  to 
be  observed  thai  this  gives  only  a  relative  idea,  for  a  great  deal 
of  the  third  rate  land,  in  the  state  of  Ohio,  would  be  reckoned  first 
rate  in  some  other  places.  A  general  remark  may  also  be  made, 
that  the  occupiers  of  land,  particularly  non-residents,  holding 
large  tracts,  will,  in  order  to  save  the  land-tax,  probably  in  their 
returns  make  as  much  of  the  land  second  and  third  rate,  as  they 
consistently  can.  First  rate  land  pays  a  tax  of  1  dollar  20  cents 
per  1 00  acres ;  second  rate  1  dollar ;  and  third  rate  60  cents. 

Although  the  average  price  of  land  may  be  quoted  at  2  dollars, 
and  some  as  high  as  10  or  12  dollars,  yet  some  districts  of  hilly 
land  could  be  purchased  for  hal '  a  dollar  an  acre,  and  probably 
one  ot  the  best  businesses  in  all  the  country  would  be  sheep-farm- 
inor  in  such  districts,  connected  with  the  manufacture  of  woollen 
yarn  and  cloth.         '  '  / 


Leave  ChilUcotJu 


onio.  4S7 

On  the  Virginia  military  lands  my  observations  shall  be  short, 
because  a  great  many  of  those  made  on  the  Chillicothc  district  ap- 
plies olso  to  tlicm,  and  there  are  certain  generol  remarks  that  will 
be  more  nppropriate  in  the  general  account  of  the  state  of  Ohio. 
This  tract  Ih  bounded  by  the  Indian  boundary  line  on  the  north, 
by  the  Ohio  on  the  south,  by  the  Cincinnati  district  and  Symmcs's 
purchase  on  the  west,  and  by  the  Chillicothe  district  on  the  cast. 
It ib about  120  miles  long,  and  nearly  60  broad;  and  contains  up- 
wards of  6000  square  miles,  or  nearly  4,000,000  of  acres. 

The  face  of  the  country,  soil,  and  timber  are  very  near'y  ass^' 
railated  to  those  in  the  Chillicothe  district.  There  '.re-  u  ^T«iu( 
raricty  of  small  streams,  and  desirable  situations  foi  kMiil*s<v^.). 

The  principal  settlers  are  from  Virginia,  Kentucky,  l\'nnfiyl- 
vania,  and  Jersey;  the  inhabitants  amount  to  about  4 'I'.'IOO,  r>*.i(l 
are  rapidly  increasing  In  number,  in  wealth,  and  impruvsmonlji.    '' 

By  the  state  books,  this  district  appears  to  be  i  p^^r  cent  lai 
rate,  60  per  cent    2d  rate,  and  36  per  cent    3d  rat'.'  Ir'.ul. 

The  country  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  Cliillicor?  a*  U, 
really  beautiful.  The  plain  on  which  it  stands,  consi^tinp;  of  a- 
bout  10,000  acres,  is  as  level  as  a  bowling-green ;  and  it  in  houn(l>» 
edon  the  west,  north-west,  and  south-east  by  pretty  hit^^h  hills, 
from  whence  there  are  charming  views.  The  Scioiu  is  a  Ofuv 
stream,about  200  yards  broad,  with  a  gravelly  bottom,  and  ahonvid'i' 
with  fish,  so  that  it  1$  both  useful  and  omameutal  to  the  town. 


■■.i-'-^u. 


CHAPTER  LXXXV. 


Leave  Chillicothe^^-New  Lancaster^ — Springfield,'- '/f-newllltK 

October  6th.  I  left  ChilUcothe  at  6  o*cl(  ck.  1\q  morning 
was  foggy  and  cool.  The  river  was  low,  .ind  I  forded  it  about 
knee  deep.  On  reaching  the  north  ba;fk,  I  passed  through  a  fine 
bottom,  the  property  of  Mr.  Zune,  of  Wheeling,  to  be  after- 
I  wards  noticed.  Here  the  dew  was  so  heavy,  that  the  lofty  trees 
ook  their  pearly  drops  over  me  like  a  shower  of  rain.  About 
[lialf  a  mile  from  the  river,  the  country  rises  by  a  gradual  ascen^ 
and  the  road  continues  good  to  Keneconek  creek,  a  beautiful  clear 
itream,  which  falls  into  the  Scioto  seven  or  eight  miles  above 
I  Chillicothe.    There  are  some  excellent  flour-mill»  upon  it,  and 


i    »  <u 


«■'''■      M 


'SU 


438  TRAVELS   IN 

iron  ore  has  been  found  on  its  banks.  Nine  miles  from  Chillicothe, 
I  stopped  at  a  small  tavern  to  breakfast. 

Here  the  landlord  informed  me  he  had  moved  from  Kentucky, 
and  liked  this  country  better,  principally  on  account  of  the  free- 
dom  from  slavery,  and  the  security  of  his  land  title.  To  the  busi- 
ness of  farming  a  snlall  piece  of  land,  he  added  that  of  teaching  a 
school  and  keeping  a  tavern,  by  which  means  he  makes  a  com- 
fortable subsistence  for  his  family ;  and  I  have  no  doubt  but  be  will 
do  very  well.  He  informed  me  that  this  part  of  th«  country  was 
very  healthy,  and  his  rosy  children  bore  testimony  to  the  truth  of 
the  remark. 

After  breakfast,  I  passed  through  a  number  of  small  plains  or 
prairies,  quite  bare  of  trees,  and  generally  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  broad  ;  and,  passing  a  branch  of  Salt  creek,  I  arrived  at  Tarl- 
ton,  a  small  place,  consisting  of  12  or  13  houses  only.  Herd 
fell  in  with  a  Scots  bookseller,  from  New  York,  who  told  me  he  had 
been  at  Cincinnati  looking  out  for  a  settlement;  we  agreed  to 
travel  together  to  Zanesville.  The  settlers  at  Tarlton  are  mostly 
Germans.  The  salt-works,  on  Salt  creek,  are  eight  miles  below 
this  place ;  the  country  round  is  fertile,  and  the  climate  healthy. 

Leaving  Tarlton,  we  passed  through  a  low  rich  country,  with 
small  swampy  prairies,  and  not  very  thickly  settled,  to  a  tavern, 
seven  miles  from  New  Lancaster ;  and  here  we  fell  in  with  two 
more  travellers,  going  to  the  eastward.  From  hence  the  country 
gets  more  elevated,  the.  woods  are  principally  black  and  white 
oak,  and  the  small  streams  and  springs  are  verj'  abundant.  We 
passed  a  stream  called  Clear  creek,  and,  as  we  approached  ^«cw 
Lancaster,  we  observed  a  number  of  small  hills,  some  of  them 
rocky,  but  the  soil  good  in  the  bottoms.  At  the  west  side  of  the 
town,  wc  passed  over  a  swampy  meadow,  by  a  very  good  turn- 
pike road,  on  which  we  paid  a  toll  of  6^  cents,  at  a  wooden 
bridge  erected  over  the  Hockhocking  river,  here  a  very  small 
stream.  Beyond  this,  the  town  is  handsomely  situated  on  a  plain; 
we  passed  to  the  east  end  of  it,  and  took  up  our  lodgings  for  the 
night  at  a  very  good  tavern. 

New  Lancaster  is  a  handsome  little  town,  in  the  centre  of  Fair- 
field county,  of  which  it  is  the  capital.     It  was  laid  out  11  or  12 
years  ago,  and  has  been  mostly   settled  by  emigrants  from  Lan- 
caster, Pennsylvania,  who  gave  it  its  name;  but  the  greater  parti 
of  the  late  settlers  are  from  New  England.     It  is  regularly  laid 


ouio.  429 

out,  the  streets  crossing  one  another  at  right  angles  J  the  princi- 
pal buildings  arc  upon  one  broad  street.  It  is  divided  into  lots  of 
82  feet  front,  by  164  deep,    which  sell  for  about  SOO  dollars. 

The  town  now  consists  of  about  100  houses,  containing  350  in- 
habitants ;  the  public  buildings  are  a  court-house  and  market-house ; 
and  there  are  nine  taverns  and  1 1  stores. 

The  greater  part  of  the  inhabitants  are  mechanics.  The  price 
of  labour  is  about  the  same  as  at  Chillicothe.  Provisions  are  rea- 
sonable; flour  about  2  dollars  25  cents  per  cwt.;  beef  4  cents  per 
lb.  and  other  articles  in  proportion. 

The  state  of  society  is  here  very  good ;  the  people  are  sober 
and  industrious,  and  the  laws  well  administered.  Education  is 
properly  attended  to,  and  this  has  a  chance  to  become  a  very  ex- 
cellent settlement.  _. 

The  country  round  New  Lancaster  is  lM?aIthy,  and  the  soil 
generally  good.  There  is  coal  seven  miles  from  hence  on  ths 
waters  of  Rush  creek,  and  freestone  and  limestone  not  far  off;  and 
there  is  iron  ore  at  the  falls  of  the  Hockhocking,  18  miles  below, 
at  which  the  proprietor  is  about  to  establish  iron  works. 

Hockhocking  river  rises  a  little  above  this,  and,  being  augment- 
ed by  many  small  streams,  pursues  a  very  winding  course  to  the 
south-eastward,  and  falls  into  the  Ohio,  after  running  a  course, 
including  its  windings,  of  nearly  100  miles*  This  river  is  navi- 
j^ble  to  the  falls  about  70  miles  from  its  outlet.  These  falls  are 
live  feet  high,  and  are  a  fine  situation  for  mill-seats,  and  well  im- 
proved. There  are  many  mills  above  the  falls ;  among  others,  a 
paper<mill  nine  miles  from  this  place.  The  banks  of  the  river 
arc  pretty  well  settled  from  its  outlet  to  Athens,  but  from  thence 
to  within  8  or  10  miles  of  New  Lancaster,  the  country  is  rough, 
and  the  settlements  thin. 

October  7.  Another  gentlemen  travelling  to  the  eastward  join- 
ed us  at  New  Lancaster,  and  we  set  out,  five  in  number,  this 
morning  at  6  o'clock.  Two  miles  from  New  Lancaster,  we  pass- 
ed a  very  elegant  brick  house,  built  by  John  Baldwin,  who  has  a 
fine  farm,  beside  a  rivulet  of  pure  water.  In  our  progress  we 
passed  a  great  many  such  rivulets,  all  supplied  with  very  pure 
vaster,  and  we  were  told  they  were  fed  by  springs,  and  never  dried 

>;  which  must  be  of  great  advantage  to  this  part  of  the  coun- 
tfy>  Water  is  always  to  be  found  of  a  good  quality,  by  digging 
12orj4te^t, 


if  ,:'i 


430 


TRAVELS   IN 


We  Stopped  at  a  good  tavern  to  breakfast,  12  miles  from  New 
Lancaster,  where  we  were  told  that  the  whole  of  the  township  was 
good,  and  so  much  improved  that  the  school  section  was  leased 
for  56  dollars  per  annum.  The  money  arising  from  it  was  divided 
among  those  who  sent  their  children  to  school,  in  proportion  to 
the  number  sent. 

From  hence  we  rode  about  14  miles  to  Jonathan  creek,  through 
a  country  agreeably  uneven,  rather  hilly,  indeed,  having  an  ex- 
cellent  soil  for  wheat ;  the  principal  timber  is  oak,  hickory,  wal* 
nut,  and  chesnut.  Jonathan  creek,  along  which  we  travelled 
some  way,  is  a  beautiful  little  stream,  with  freestone  banks,  and  a- 
bounding  with  mill-seats,  coal,  and  iron  ore  ;  and  the  whole 
country  round  was  really  beautiful,  the  view  being  enlivened  by 
the  radiant  beams  of  the  sun  on  a  very  fine  evening. 

We  travelled  on  through  a  rich  valley,  and  passing  through 
Springfield,  a  handsome  place,  mostly  built  on  one  street,  we 
forded  the  Muskingum  abput  knee  deep,  the  current  very  rapid 
the  bottom  fine  gravel,  and  the  breadth  about  150  yards.  We 
arrived  at  Zanesville  about  sun-set.  '  :  T 


tzm^s 


^..ui  <i  ^:,, a  CHAPTER  LXXXVI. 
>  -       j^^  Zanesville — Zanesville  district, 

-rrii    iftjf  firii*    w» 


HI/' 


i  Hit 


,;['.;' 


l.»    -  /> 

-     V 

Dr.  STANBERY,  of  New  York,  was  the  first  person  whom  I 
heard  mention  Zanesville,  in  the  course  of  my  inquiries  in  the 
spring  of  this  year  ;  I  had,  however,  heard  a  good  deal  of  it  afte^ 
wards,  and  expected  to  find  it  a  pretty  little  place.  But  it  cer- 
tainly  did  exceed  my  expectations.  I  found  a  large  thriving  town, 
with  a  great  number  of  handsome  brick  houses,  the  buildings 
going  rapidly  on ;  and  every  thing  wearing  a  flourishing  aspect. 
Tlie  ground  around  it  w&s  well  cleared,  the  neighbouring  hills 
were  getting  into  a  state  of  cultivation,  mills  were  erecting,  and 
bridges,  banks,  and  manufactures  were  projected.  The  situation 
too,  for  all  these  projects,  appeared  favourable.  The  Muskingum 
river  is  navigable  to  this  place,  and  beyond  it,  to  near  its  head, 
from  whence  there  is  a  communication  with  lake  Erie^  by  a  small 
portage.  There  are  fine  falls  at  Zanesville,  and  mills  may  be  erect* 
•d  to  almost  an  unlimited  extent.    Licking  creek  pours  its  wa> 


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tors  into  the  Mi 
fords  also  a  fine 
greeable  prospci 
^  lent  soil,  timber 
\       H  state  road  from 
"Tiiis  mu»t  cer 
Such  were  my 
resolved  to  spen 
make  remarks; 
its  friendly  irjhal 
ville,  and  they  ir 
tatedmy  inquiri< 
into  this  chapter. 
Zanesville  is 
miles  from  the   ( 
north  latitude  39 
The  scite  of  the  1 
sides  of  the  river ; 
sid^  where  the  tc 
ing  one  another  ai 
I  are  132  feet  deep, 
and  sell  for  from  ] 
out-lots  of  five  acn 
lars  an  acre. 

The  iihprovemc 

Five  years  afterwai 

it  now  contains  ab< 

tants.    The  whole 

are  built  of  brick,  i 

a  court-house,  occi 

office.    There  is  nc 

proposition  has  alsi 

j%um,  and  to  est 

Icellent  water  from 

Ifeetdeep,  but  probj 

I'upply  of  spring  wa 

Iwhich  have  a  sufficit 

|«8t  houses. 

•  The  legislature  at  the 


,-^1 


OHIO. 


431 


tcrs  into  the  Muskingum  by  a  cascade  opposite  the  town,  &nd  af- 
fords also  a  fine  situation  for  mill-seatS)  while  it  forms  a  very  a- 
greeable  prospect.  The  banks  of  these  rivers  abound  with  excel- 
lent soil,  timber,  coal,  limestone,  and  iron  ore;  and  the  great 
state  road  from  Pittsburg  to  Kentucky  passes  through  the  town. 
"  This  must  certainly  become  a  fine  situation  for  manufactures/* 
Such  were  my  first  impressions  on  viewing  Zanesville,  and  I 
resolved  to  spend  some  days  there,  to  procure  information  and 
make  remarks ;  in  doing  which  I  met  with  every  assistance  from 
its  friendly  inhabitants.  I  had  letters  to  two  gentlemen  in  Zanes- 
ville, and  they  introduced  me  to  many  others,  who  greatly  facili- 
tated my  inquiries ;  I  shall  condense  the  result  of  my  observations 
into  this  chapter. 

Zanesville  is  situated  on  the  Muskingum  river,  about  64 
miles  from  the  Ohio  by  land,  and  from  70  to  80  by  water ;  in 
north  latitude  39°  58',  west  longitude  from  Washington  ^^  50'. 
The  scite  of  the  town  occupies  a  mile  square,  and  extends  to  both 
sides  of  the  river ;  but  all  the  buildings  yet  erected  are  on  the  east 
side,  where  the  town  is  neatly  laid  out  by  streets  and  lanes,  cross- 
ing one  another  at  right  angles  like  Chillicothe.  The  building  lots 
are  132  feet  deep,  by  66  feet  in  front,  making  one-fifth  of  an  acre 
and  sell  for  from  100  to  1000  dollars.  There  are  a  number  of 
out-lots  of  five  acres  each,  and  they  sell  for  from  100  to  200  dol- 
lars an  acre. 

The  improvements  in  Zanesville  commenced  in  the  year  1804. 
fire  years  afterwards  it  contained  92  houses,  and  600  inhabitants; 
I  it  now  contains  about  250  houses,  and  upwards  of  1200  inhabi- 
itants.    The  whole  township  contains  2154.     Many  of  the  houses 
are  built  of  brick,  and  a  few  of  stone.    The  public  buildings  are, 
a  court-house,  occupied  also  as  a  state-house,  a  jail,  and  aland- 
office.    There  is  no  church,  but  one  is  about  to  be  built,  and  a 
proposition  has  also  been  made  to  build  a  bridge  over  the  Mus- 
Uingum,  and  to  establish  a  bank.*     The  town  is  supplied  by  ex- 
jcellent  water  from  pump-wells,    which    are  generally  about   45 
Ifeet  deep,  but  probably  at  no  very  distant  period  they  will  get  a 
jsupply  of  spring  water  from  the  hills  to  the  eastward  of  the  town, 
j»hich  have  a  sufficient  elevation  to  send  it  to  the  tops  of  the  high- 
lit houses. 

The  legislature  at  the  last  session  passed  acts  to  build  a  bridge  and  to  incorporate 
V  btnk.    Murray,  Draper,  Faiiman,  &  Co.  lately  finished  tlie  plates  for  the  notes.  ■ 


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rm 

43a 


TRAVELS    IN 


ZanesviUe  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade ;  it  has  1 1  taverns 
and  1 1  stores ;  and  the  following  professions  are  exercised :  masons 
and  stone-cutters,  brick  •makers,  carpenters,  cabinet-makers, 
smiths,  clock  and  watch-makers,  tanners,  curriers,  saddlers,  boot 
andj  shoe-makers,  butchers,  bakers,  hatters,  taylors,  printers,  rope- 
makers,  potters,  and  painters.  The  price  of  labour  is  nearly  the 
same  all  over  the  western  country :  a  common  labourer  has  75  cents 
per  day,  brick -makers  have  5  dollars  per  1000  for  bricks,  and  2 
dollars  50  cents  for  laying.  Stone-citters  and  carpenters  work  at 
the  Philadelphia  prices.  Other  trades  have  about  one  dollar  per  day. 

The  markets  are  favourable  to  tradesmen  and  labourers.  House- 
rent  may  be  quoted  at  36  to  50  dollars  per  annum ;  coals  5^  cents 
per  bushel,  delivered ;  wood  1  dollar  per  cord,  delivered ;  flour  4 
dollars  per  barrel ;  meal  33  cents  per  cwt. ;  potatoes  25  cents  per 
bushel;  turnips  12^:  other  vegetables  plenty  and  cheap.  Beef, 
mutton,  and  veal  3  to  4<  cents  per  lb. ;  pork  2  dollars  50  cents  per 
cwt  :  bacon  10  cents  per  lb. ;  venison  25  per  ham  ;  fowls  6^  each; 
ducks  12^;  geese  37?;  wild  turkies  25;  hog's  lard  3  per  lb.; 
cheese  and  butter  12^  ;  whiskey  and  peach-brandy  40  per  gallon; 
cyder  5  dollars  per  barrel ;  salt  1  dollar  50  cents  per  bushel ;  fish 
very  plenty  and  cheap.  Boarding  from  1  dollar  75  cents  to  2  dol- 
lars 50  cents  per  week. 

Various  branches  of  manufactures  miirht  be  established  here  to  I 
great  advantage,  of  which  may  be  enumerated,  cotton-spinning 
and  weaving,  wool-spinning  and  weaving,  ropes,  spun-yarn,  and 
cotton  bagging;  frame  smith-work  and  hosiery;  glass  and  glasj 
bottles ;  beer  and  porter.     The  materials  for  all  these  are  abun- 
dant, or  can  be  easily  procured.     Cotton  is  brought  from  Tennes-j 
see  at  from  four  to  five  cents  per  lb.     Sheep,  both  of  the  commoDJ 
tmd  Merino  breed,  thrive  remaikably  well,  and  are  getting  very 
plenty.     Hemp  grows  luxuriantly  on  the  river  bottoms;  ironisi 
plenty  every  where  through  the  country ;  every  material  for  mi 
ing  glass  is  on   the  spot.     Grain  is  very  cheap  ;  and  hops  grow  J 
spontaneously. 

There  is  a  spirit  to  encourage  domestic  manufactures  among  tliel 
inhabitants,  and  any  manufacture  that  is  calculated  for  the  place,j 
and  well  conducted,  is  certain  to  succeed.  ,,:^ 

In  point  of  commerce,  ZanesviUe  is  likely  to  become  a  consider-l 
able  place.  The  banks  of  the  Muskingum  and  its  waters  upward! 
are  settling  rapidly ;  and  the  quantity  of  produce  that  Avill  coniej 


down  the  river  will  encrease  every  year.  At  present  almost  the 
only  article  of  surplus  produce  is  flour,  of  which  the  price  has 
beeo  quoted.  Other  articles  are  raised  in  abundance,  but  the 
great  influx  of  emigrants  consumes  nearly  the  whole. 

The  inhabitants  of  Zanesville  are  very  mixed.  About  half  are 
probably  from  Pennsylvania,  and  the  remainder  are  principally 
from  the  New  England  states  and  Virginia.  There  are  few  fo- 
reigners. They  are  quiet  and  moral  in  their  deportment,  and  are 
pretty  well  informed.  There  is  no  public  seminary  of  education 
established  as  yet,  but  it  is  presumed  an  academy  will  soon  be  built ; 
and  there  is  a  good  opening  for  a  scientific  teacher.  The  educa- 
tion of  young  ladies  has  not  been  neglected ;  a  female  seminary 
was  about  to  be  established  by  two  ladies  from  Baltimore.  There 
are  several  common  schools,  and  the  fund  for  the  support  of  this 
important  branch  of  education  is  very  ample ;  but  as  it  applies  to 
the  whole  state,  it  will  be  noticed  hereafter. 

The  police  of  the  town  is  at  present  on  the  same  footing  as  the 
other  townships,  under  the  management  of  trustees ;  but  it  was  in- 
tended to  apply  for  a  charter  of  incorporation,  and,  if  it  is  incor- 
porated, it  will,  of  course,  be  under  the  direction  of  mayor,  alder- 
men, &c. 

Zanesville  district  is  bounded  north  by  Canton  district,  south 
by  the  Ohio  company's  purchase,  east  by  Steubenville  and  Mari- 
etta districts,  and  west  by  Chillicothe  district.  Its  length,  from 
south  to  north,  is  about  72  miles;  its  breadth  is  about  50  miles ; 
and  its  area  about  3,600  square  miles,  or  2,304>,000  acres. 

Upwards  of  two-thirds  of  this  district  is  occupied  by  the  army 
lands,  and  a  small  portion  is  refugee  lands.  The  face  of  the  coun- 
try is  beautifully  diversified.  To  the  south,  along  the  Muskingum, 
the  hills  are  pretty  high  and  rough ;  to  the  north  the  surface  is 
agreeably  uneven,  with  some  pretty  high  hills :  to  the  north-west 
it  is  more  level.    The  soil  is  various,  but  a  great  portion  of  it  is 

od ;  the  bottoms  on  the  rivers  are  very  rich,  and  the  hills  are 

generally  covered  with  a  strong  mould,   which  answers  well  for 

i  wheat.    The  district  stands,  in  the  state  books,  about  4  per  cent. 

I  of  first  rate ;  40  per  cent,  of  second  rate ;    and   56   ptr  cent,  of 

third  rate  land.    The  whole  is  abundantly  supplied  with  freestone, 
I  limestone,  iron  ore,  and  inexhaustible  beds  of  coal. 

The  district  is  remarkably  well  watered.  The  Muskingum  runs 
I  through  it  from  one  extremity  to  the  other.     This  beautiful  river 

S5 


vl  '  s»"  Mfii 


431 


TRAVELS    IS 


merits  particular  notice.  Il  rises  in  a  small  lake  on  the  boandary 
line  of  the  Connecticut  reserve,  and  passing  into  that  district,  it  rung 
MTCst  about  14  miles ;  and  from  thence  to  the  Cayahogan  river,  which 
falls  into  lake  Erie,  there  is  a  portage  of  only  seven  or  eight  miles. 
From  thence  it  bends  to  the  south,  and,  running  nearly  a  south 
<lircction,  about  60  miles,  receives  in  its  progress,  besides  a  num- 
ber of  small  streams,  Sandy  creek,  Gutgatsink  creek,  Sugnr 
creek,  and  Stillwater  creek.  From  Stillwater,  it  runs  nearly  a 
western  course  to  Coshocton,  where  it  forms  a  junction  with  White 
Woman's  creek.  To  this  junction  it  bears  the  name  of  the  Tusca- 
rawas branch,  but  it  is  now  known  by  the  general  name  of  Mus- 
kingum. From  Coshocton  to  Zanesviilc  is  30  milies  by  land,  but 
the  river  course  is  about  40,  in  a  direction  a  little  west  of  south, 
and  it  receives  two  considerable  streams  by  the  way.  Wills  creek 
and  Wakatomika.  At  Zanesville  it  receives  Licking  creek,  and, 
between  this  and  the  Ohio,  it  is  augmented  by  a  vast  number  of 
small  streams.  It^  confluence  with  the  Ohio  was  noticed  at  page 
S44.  Some  of  its  tributary  streams  are  very  large.  White  Wo- 
man's creek  is  composed  of  Killbucks  creek,  Mohecan,  John's 
creek,  and  Owl  creek,  which,  with  their  head  waters,  cover  a 
vast  tract  of  country  ;  and  Wills  creek  and  Licking  creek  are  both 
very  considerable  streams.  The  greater  part  of  the  waters  of  this 
river  are  fed  uy  springs,  which  unquestionably  contribute  much  to 
the  health  and  comfort  of  the  inhabitants;  and  the  river  is,  incon- 
sequence, generally  clear,  and  the  water  excellent. 

The  natural  timber  is  very  nne,  and  of  great  variety.  The 
chief  kinds  may  be  noticed  :  oak,  walnut,  hickory,  cherry,  sugar- 
maple,  poplar,  elm,  ash,  sycamore,  honey-locust,  &c.  Fruit-trees  j 
of  every  kind  thrive  remarkably  well :  peach  trees,  rsfisetl  from  tlie 
stone,  bear  fruit  in  three  years.  Grain,  grass,  and  vegetables,  are 
raised  in  abundance. 

The  climate  is  healthy  and  agreeable.  Pddple  from  the  eastern  I 
Rtates  say  that  the  summers  are  not  so  oppressive  as  in  Vermont  and 
Massachusetts,  while  the  winters  are  generally  so  mild,  that  cattle 
mostly  grazo  in  the  fields.  The  spring  commences  about  the 
15th  of  March,  and  gardeniog  begins  about  the  1st  of  Apri', 
wliich  is  generally  a  very  pleasant  month;  but  there  are  often  a 
few  days  of  cold  stormy  weather  about  the  beginning  of  May. 
The  warm  weather  commences  about  the  middle  of  May,  aiiJj 
continues  till  about  the  middle  of  September,  being  warmest  a* 

'  '2^\   ■        •;•  ■:       .V.  ,  . 


OHIO.  435 

bout  (lie  beginning  of  June ;  but  tiie  heat  is  moderate.  Tiierc 
is  no  thermometer  kept  at  Zanesville;  but  so  far  as  1  could 
judge,  it  appeared  that  the  extremity  of  the  summer  heat  seldom 
exceeded  80".  The  fall  weather  is  tem})erate,  dry,  and  beautiful ; 
and  continues  till  about  the  middle  of  December.  'I'lie  winters 
are  very  changeable,  and  subject  to  u  great  deal  oi  rain.  Ex- 
cept in  the  neighbourhood  of  ponds  and  undrained  murshcs, 
which  are  few,  the  country  is  very  healthy.  About  Zanesville  it  is 
particularly  so  ;  and  as  there  arc  no  swamps  nor  ponds,  but  what 
can  be  drained,  the  district  will  become,  1  think,  one  of  the  most 
desirable  in  the  United  States. 

It  is  little  more  than   12  years  »ince  this  district  began  to  set- 
tie,  and  it  now  contains  about  20,000  inhabitants.     The  people 
are  very  mixed.     The  greater  part  are  from  Pennsylvania,  and 
llie  remainder  mostly  from  Virginia,  Maryland,   Jersey,  and  New 
England.     There  are  few  foreigners.      They  are  generally   civil, 
discreet,  and  industrious.     The    first  business  of  life,   in  a  new 
country,  being  clearing  of  land,  little  attention  can  be  paid  to  edu- 
cation or  science  for  some  time.     In  the  towns,  there  are  some  sci- 
entific men,  principally  of  the  medical  profession  ;    and  there  is  a 
pretty  general  disposition  to  give  the  children  instruction  ;    but  a 
good  deal  has  yet  to  be  done  to  make  this   important  subject  at- 
tended to  in  the  way  it  ought  to  be.     People  are  to  be  found  here 
(^  all  the  diiferent  persuasions  la  religion ;  but  none  have  any  pe- 
culiar privileges,  so  that  they  have  nothing  of  that  kind  to  cjnar- 
rel  about ;  and  all  live  in   Christian  charity.     There  is  a  news- 
paper established  at  Zanesville ;  and  as  (hey  get  numerous  others 
by  mail,  they  are  all   well  informal  on  the  subject  of  politics. 
Every  man,  woman,  and  child,  almost,  read  the  newspapers  ;  and 
they  express  their  opinions  freely.     An  election  took  place  while 
I  was  at  Zanesville,  and  it  was  conducted  with  the  greatest  har- 
mony imaginable.  Each  voter  handed  in  a  slip  of  paper  containing 
the  names  cf  the  candidates  of  his  choice:  it  was  deposited  in 
«  ballot-box,  and  the  name  of  the    voter   was  recorded.      The 
polls  were  kept  open  from  10  till  4  o'clock,  when  all   the  votes 
were  counted,   and  the  candidates  who  had   the  greatest  number 
were  declared  to  be  duly  elected.     I  was  told   that  the  election 
was  general  throughout  the  state,  on  the  same  day,   between  the 
same  hour&,  and  that  there  was  a  poll  in   every  township.      This 
I  consider  a  wise  regulation.     It  is  of  great  consequence,  in  a 


436  TRAVELS  IN 

popular  government,  that  the  sentiments  of  the  people  be  fairly 
expressed ;  and  this  can  be  done  in  no  way  so  completely  ns  by 
small  districts,  in  which  the  citizens  can  transact  the  whole  businesi 
in  n  few  hours ;  and,  being  few  in  number,  and  all  kno>vn  to 
each  other,  the  whole  is  conducted  without  tumult  or  noise,  or 
any  of  those  disgraceful  scenes  which  often  attend  elections  on 
a  large  scale. 

Agriculture  is,  of  course,  the  great  business  of  a  new  country ; 
so  that  farmers,  and  such  mechanics  as  contribute  to  the  support 
of  that  important  branch,  are  the  best  adapted  to  the  country ; 
but  I  have  no  doubt  that  manufactures  will  flourish,  although  I 
think  it  may  be  prudent  for  such  manufacturers  only  to  go  there 
as  have  capitals  to  carry  on  the  business,  and  such  workmen  as 
are  specially  written  for.  The  disposition  to  encourage  manu- 
factures is  sufliciently  obvious,  and  there  are  some  of  the  inhabi- 
tants who  would  even  support  a  useful  undertaking  by  pecuniary 
aid ;  but  the  greater  part  of  the  capital  in  this  country  is  ves- 
ted in  new  lands  as  fast  as  it  is  accunmlated ;  and  there  being  a 
constant  drain  upon  the  specie  capital,  by  payments  to  the  U- 
nited  States  government,  there  is  very  little  capital  to  spare 
for  other  objects.  •', 

Very  considerable  progress  has  been  made  in  constructing 
roads,  and  in  other  internal  improvements. 

The  price  of  land  is  various,  according  to  bituation  and  qua- 
lity. The  United  States  lands  here  are  the  same  as  in  other 
districts,  2  dollars  per  acre,  on  a  credit,  or  1  dollar  64  cents, 
cash  ;  but  purchases  can  often  be  made  of  individuals  on  better 
terms,  particularly  from  those  who  hold  very  large  tracts.  The 
land  tax  on  a  large  tract  is  heavy,  and  after  paying  it  a  few  years, 
without  getting  any  return,  the  holders,  particularly  non-residents, 
are  glad  to  sell  out  at  any  price.  This  circumstance,  connected  witb 
that  of  the  United  States  holding  such  large  tracts  of  land  at  a  low 
price,  will  always  operate  against  land  speculations  on  a  large  scale* 
The  only  mode  in  which  a  land  trade  can  be  profitable  is  to  pur- 
chase a  tract  for  cash,  subdivide  it  into  farms  of  different  sizes  to  ac- 
commodate different  settlers,  and  dispose  of  them  at  fair  prices  as 
soon  as  possible.  In  this  way  the  land  trade  is  fair  and  honoura- 
ble, being  exactly  similar  to  that  of  buying  any  other  commodity 
by  wholesale,  and  selling  it  by  retail ;  the  public  are  accommodated, 
and  the  land-dealer  has  his  certain  rewai'd.    In  any  other  way  spe* 


OHIO.  437 

culations  in  land  are  hazardous.  Good  lands  rise  in  value,  certain- 
Iv;  but  such  as  speculate  in  them  on  a  large  scale,  with  a  view  of 
making  money,  will  in  all  probability  be  disappointed ;  for  the  accu- 
mulation of  interest,  and  the  operation  of  the  land -tax,  .will  be  found, 
generally,  to  amount  to  more  than  the  rise  on  the  lands. 

From  the  facility  with  which  live  stock  may  be  reared,  the  price 
of  them  is  reasonable.  Horses  sell  from  25  to  75  dollars,  cows  15 
to  20  dollars,  sheep  2  to  2  dollars  50  cents. 

The  scite  of  Zanesville,  together  with  that  of  New  Lancaster,  and 
a  tract  of  land  at  Chillicothe,  each  a  mile  square,  were  granted  by 
the  United  States  government  to  Mr.  Zane,  of  Wheeling,  as  a  com- 
pensation for  his  services  in  laying  out  the  state  road  from  Wheel- 
ing to  Limestone.  Two  others  were  associated  with  Mr.  Znne,  and 
they  divided  the  property.  Mr.  Zane's  share  is  that  beautiful  tract 
of  bottom  land  opposite  to  Chillicothe,  which  is  rapidly  improving 
in  value;  so  also  is  thesciteof  New  Lancaster;  but  that  of  Zanes- 
Tille  exceeds  them  both :  and  if  its  progress  is  not  checked  by  the 
proprietor  setting  too  great  a  value  upon  the  remaining  lots,  of  which 
I  think  there  is  some  little  danger,  it  is  likely  to  become  a  very  fine 
place  indeed.  As  a  situation  for  manufactures  it  has  almost  every 
advantage;  there  is  a  sufficiency  of  water  to  drive  50  mills ;  coal  is 
on  a  hill  in  sight  of  the  centre  of  the  town ;  and  there  are  iron  works 
within  three  or  four  miles  of  it;  sheep  are  thriving  in  a  wonderful 
manner ;  the  river  navigation  is  complete ;  and  the  roads  are  im- 
proving every  year.  In  short,  I  never  saw  a  place  that  appeared  to 
be  better  adapted  for  the  establishment  of  almost  every  branch  of 
manufactures ;  and  before  leaving  it,  I  shall  say  a  few  words  on  that 
subject  generally. 

"  Is  it  best  that  all  our  citizens  should  be  employed  in  the  im- 
provement of  the  land,  or  that  one-half  should  be  called  off  from 
that  to  exercise  manufactures  and  handicraft  arts  for  the  other?" 
This  question  was  proposed  by  a  celebrated  public  character  in 
the  United  States,  in  the  year  1781  (seepage  181,)  and  the  an- 
swer to  it  (page  182)  suggests  an  important  reflection.  It  shows 
that  the  policy  of  the  leading  men  in  the  United  States,  was  fa- 
vourable to  the  system  of  foreign  commerce,  and  opposed  to  the 
establishment  of  internal  manufactures;  and  the  great  change 
which  has  since  taken  place,  must  be  predicated  upoi  _  very  great 
change  of  circumstances.  We  accordingly  ifind  it  stated  in  the 
last  official  report  upon  the  subject  (see  page  278,)  that  "  several 


4S8  TRAVELS    IN 

of  the  obstacles  which  impetled  the  progrcsM  of  manufucturch  hare 
been  removed  or  lessened.  The  chcapncsit  of  provisionti  liad  [\\. 
wuyts  to  u  certain  extent,  counterbalanced  the  high  price  of 
manual  labour ;  and  thiu  i»  now,  in  many  important  branches, 
nearly  superseded  by  the  introtluction  of  machinery.  A  great  A> 
mcrican  capital  has  been  acquired  during  the  lust  20  years;  ami  the 
injurious  violation  of  the  neutral  commerce  of  the  United  States, 
by  forcing  industry  and  capital  into  other  channels,  have  broken 
inveterate  habits,  and  given  a  general  impulse,  to  which  mu8t  be 
ascribed  the  great  increase  of  manufactures  during  the  last  two 
years." 

The  first  remark  that  presents  itself  is,  that,  in  our  reasonings 
upon  this  subject,  we  are  extremely  apt  to  ussuciate  with  it  the 
idea  of  the  miseries  to  be  fuund  in  tiie  workshops  of  Europe.  But 
I  think  the  association  is  incorrect.  In  Europe,  particularly  in 
those  quarters  of  it  under  the  operation  of  the  feudal  system, 
**  manufactures  are  resorted  to,  of  necessity,  to  support  the  sur- 
))lus  of  their  people."  For  the  sale  of  the  commodities  manu* 
factured  they  are  dependent  on  foreign  markets.  The  work> 
hig  people  can  seldom  acquire  any  capital,  they  are  obliged  to  ply 
from  morning  till  night  for  a  bare  existence,  and  are  subject  to 
all  the  contingencies  of  a  foreign  export  trade.  Hence  they  are 
seldom  even  in  comfortable  circumstances ;  when  the  foreign  trade 
fails,  their  misery  is  oilcn  extreme. 

But  the  case  is  entirely  different  in  the  United  States.  Here 
every  class  is  on  an  equal  footing,  and  every  branch  of  internal 
industry  will  naturally  find  Us  level.  Manufactures  will  only 
flourish  so  far  as  they  are  on  a  level  with  other  branches,  and  the 
workmen  employed  in  them  must  be  as  well  paid,  as  those  em* 
ployed  in  agriculture ;  in  consequence  of  which  we  may  fairly  pre- 
sume, thatthey  will  be  equally  virtuous,  iutclligent,  and  indepen- 
dent with  the  other  members  of  the  community. 

In  a  country  where  the  government  is  exercised  by  the  people, 
it  is  to  be  presumed  that  the  state  of  society  which  is  most  conducive 
to  internal  independence  is  the  best.  A  popular  government  can  re- 
gulate the  internal  concerns  of  the  country  in  a  manner  the  best 
calculated  to  promote  the  public  good:  but  they  have  no  controul 
over  foreign  nations,  and,  so  far  as  they  are  linked  to  them  by  trade, 
foreign  nations  may  controul  them.  I  should  think,  therefore, 
that  the  state  of  society  which  is  the  most  independent  is  that 


OHIO.  439 

which  can  supply  tlic  greatest  number  of  its  wuiits  at  home.  ("Iiat 
the  munuiucturcs  of  Antcricu  will  increase  until  they  be  cv  alto 
a  lupply  of  the  demand  at  home,  I  have  no  doubt,  and  to  in  it  ex- 
tent they  woultl  be  perfectly  congenial  with  the  j)riicticc  of  virtue, 
it  is  only  when  the  produce  is  so  great  that  they  depend  upon  a 
foreijjn  market  for  a  vent  of  the  surplus,  that  they  become  perni- 
cious. 

Thnt  monufactures  and  the  mechanical  arts  are  n  >t  in  theitisclvcct 
hurtful  to  tt  community,  is  obvious  from  mp'  .  considerations. 
Among  others",  a  very  bright  example  may  be  referred  to  in  the 
Harmonist  Society.  They  not  only  supply  all  their  wants  within 
themselves,  but  they  sell  annually  a  large  portion  of  their  manu- 
fiictures  to  their  neighbours ;  yet  we  find  that  neither  the  orga- 
nization of  manufactures,  nor  the  exercise  of  tiie  mechanical  arts 
have  at  all  tended  to  hurt  their  morals,  or  to  interfere  with  their 
prosperity.  On  the  contrary,  they  are  probably  the  most  vii  tu- 
oiis  society  on  the  face  of  the  earth,  and  they  are  flourishing  be- 
yond all  example.  The  plain  reason  is,  that  they  arc  all  on  nn 
equal  footing  at  home,  and  are  not  dependent  on  any  person  a- 
broad.    ITiey  can  regulate  their  own  affairs  in  their  own  way. 

And  it  does  not  follow  that  in  the  prosecution  of  manufactures 
and  the  mechanical  arts,  if  confined  to  a  supply  of  the  internal  con- 
sumption of  the  country,  **  one-half  of  the  people  are  taken  away 
from  agriculture"  I  have  not  the  means  of  calculating  the  pro- 
portion that  will  be  necessary,  but  I  observe  that  even  >  in  Britain, 
where  they  are  so  completely  dependent  upon  foreign  markets,  it 
is  nearly  as  one  and  seven-tenths  to  two  :  the  agriculturists  being 
estimated  at  2,000,000,  and  the  mechanics  ami  manufacturers  at 
1,730,000.  In  the  Hormonist  Society,  the  agriculturists  are  103, 
mechanics  66,  manufacturers  63 ;  but  the  society  have  adopted 
the  principle  to  raise  no  grain  for  sale,  and  to  vest  the  whole  of 
their  surplus  labour  in  manufactured  articles  for  the  country.  By 
the  report  before  alluded  to  (see  page  277,)  it  appears  that  the  A- 
Imcricun  manufactures  exceed  120,000,000  dollars,  and  the  imports 
amount  to  obout  30,000,000  dollars ;  so  that  the  addition  ofonc- 
lourth  to  the  manufacturing  class  would  perfect  the  system;  but 
huch  is  the  proportion  of  labour  that  can  be  saved  by  nmchinery» 
that  it  is  presumed,  if  it  were  fairly  applied,  the  additional  hands 
wanted  would  be  much  less  than  one-fourth,  and  not  at  all  so 
many  as  would  make  a  sensible  diminution  in   the   ranks  of  llio 


440 


TRAVELS   IK 


agriculturists.  I  have  else  where  remarked,  <<  that  in  every 
connk  >unity  there  are  a  great  number  of  the  members  who  are  bet- 
ter calculated  for  labour  in  the  house  than  in  the  field."  I  may 
add  here,  that  in  proportion  to  the  increase  of  manufactures  in 
the  country,  will  the  farmer  have  a  demand  for  his  surplus  pro< 
duce  at  home,  and  be  less  dependent  on  a  foreign  market ;  aiid 
it  appears  that  he  can  be  better  accommodated,  generally,  with 
home-made  articles,  as  they  are  more  substantial  in  the  fabric, 
and  can  be  adapted  with  greater  facility  to  the  taste  of  the  wearer, 
than  foreign  manufactures. 

These  remarks  apply  with  peculiar  force  to  the  western  couutrj-, 
where  the  produce  is  far  from  a  market,  and  where  materials  for 
manufactures  arc  so  abundant. 


CHAPTER  LXXXVII. 


Leave  Zanesville, — Coshocton, — New  Philadelj^hia, — Canton. 

October  ISth.  I  set  out  from  ZanesvIUe  at  8  o'clock  in  the 
morning.     I  crossed  the  Muskingum   by  a  boat,    and  travelled 
near  the  west  bank,  through  a  good  tract  of  land,  but  little  culti- 
vated.    At  10,  I  passed  over  a  pretty  high  hill,  where  I  had  a 
fine  view,  and,  through  a  country  agreeably  diversified.    I  reach- 
ed Wakatomika  creek,  15  miles  from  Zanesville.     The  land  along  \ 
the  Muskingum  would  make  very  desirable  farms,  if  cut  into  sec- 
tions, having  a  quarter  of  a  mile  along  the  river,  and  one  miie  j 
back.     At  Wakatomika  I  saw  a  large  flock  of  sheep,  with  some 
inerinoes  among  them,  and  was  informed  they  belonged  to  a  Mr. 
Adams,  who  had  been  very  successful   in  sheep-farming.    Thej 
river  banks  are  here  fertile  and  beautiful;  and,  on  the  west  bank,| 
there  are  large  and  fertile  bottoms.  I  travelled  along  these,  close  by 
the  river,  about  2  miles,  when  I  passed  a  methodist  meeting-house. 
The  hearers  amounted  to  about  30  or  40  only;  but  the  preacher  I 
was  holding  forth  as  if  he  had  been  addressing  as  many  thousands. 
He  was  literally  roaring.     A    little  beyond  this,  I  stopped  at  a 
tavern  to  feed  my  horse,  and  was  told   the  family  was  from  Vir-j 
ginia,  and  liked  this  place  remarkably  well. 

The  bottoms  continue  6  or  7  miles  along  the  river,  and  are  in- 
terspersed with  several  little   openings,  the  work,   no  doubt,  of  I 


OHIO. 


4U 


the  Indian  tribes,  now  no  more  in  this  place.  About  6  miles  from 
the  tavern,  I  passed  over  some  of  the  river-hills,  rough,  steep, 
and  stony ;  and  thence  descended  into  a  rich  bottom.  Here  I  met 
a  family  in  a  waggon,  travelling  to  New  Lancuster,  and  they  very 
civiliv  gave  me  information  as  to  the  best  place  of  crossing  the 
river.  I  obeyed  their  directions,  and  crossed  over  where  they 
had  done  with  their  waggon.  The  river  was  here  u  beautiful 
jtream,  about  180  yards  wide,  above  knee-deep,  with  a  fine  san- 
dy bottom.  Along  the  cast  bank  there  is  a  beautiful  plain  of  very 
rich  land,  4  or  5  miles  to  Coshocton,  at  the  confluence  of  White 
Woman's  creek  and  Tuscarawa  river,  and,  having  reached  it,  I 
stopped  all  night.  ' ''    '  ,...-,.  v.,    ,   »  ,      : 

Coshocton  is  the  seat  of  justice  of  Coshocton  county,  and  is  quite 
anew  place,  containing  about  140  inhabitants,  h  is  a  little  ^iub- 
ject  to  fever  and  ague ;  but  the  unheulthiness  will  be  but  tempo- 
rary. This  situation  is  beautiful,  and  the  country  round  it  is 
rich,  abounding  in  coal,  limestone  and  freestone.  The  timber  is 
oak,  chesnut,  walnut,  &c. ;  and  the  woods  abound  with  sassafras. 
A  great  deal  of  stock  is  raised  here  for  the  eastern  market.  The 
country  is  so  favourable,  that  cattle,  to  the  value  of  2100  dollars, 
has  been  raided,  and  sold  off  90  acres  of  land  ;  and  4500  bushels 
of  corn  have  been  raised  on  80  acres  in  one  year.     -      i*  '  -  ^  ^ 

October  14th.  As  I  was  preparing  for  my  joumey,  I  fell  in  with 
a  Scotsman  from  Edinburgh,  and  we  had  a  little  conversation  about 
AM  Reekie.  The  morning  was  damp  and  foggy.  I  rode  about 
a  mile  through  the  bottom,  and  could  trace  the  cause  of  the  fever 
eiiil  ague,  in  a  number  of  Uttle  ponds  which  stand  undrained  in 
j  the  meadow.  The  road  passes  over  pretty  high  hills,  about  5 
I  miles,  and  then  descends  into  a  rich  plain,  in  which,  however, 
there  are  but  few  settlements,  and  the  people  look  sickly.  At  10 
miles  from  Coshocton,  I  came  to  a  small  tavern,  where  1  stopped 
I  to  breakfast.  ^  t&^i-w..i  .  ..-^      .:  -  r- 

As  I  proposed  to  ride  to  New  Philadelphia,  36  miles  fi  om  Co- 
shocton, and  the  road  was  altogether  new  to  me,  and  often  cross- 
ed the  river,  I  was  anxious  to  be  gone  as  soon  as  possible,  and 
I  urged  the  landlady  to  make  all  the  haste  she  could.  She  said  she 
would  have  the  breakfast  ready  in  a  minute;  but  the  first  indica- 
Itioii  I  saw  of  despatch  was  a  preparation  to  twist  the  necks  ol  two 
Ichickens.  1  told  her  to  stop,  and  she  gave  me  a  look  of  astonish- 
jiDent.    "  Have  you  any  eggs  ?"  said  I.     "  Yes,  plenty,"  replied 

56 


■  ,>f  w 


p  M,' 


.1^ 


!■  '^;i', 


it.   !ii 


44 


TRAVBLS   IN 


she,  still  keeping  in  a  stooping  posture,  with  the  chicken  in  her 
hand.  "  Well,"  said  I,  "just  boil  an  egg,  and  let  me  hate  it 
with  a  little  bread  and  tea,  and  that  will  save  you  and  I  a  great 
deal  of  trouble."  She  seemed  quite  embarrassed,  and  said  she 
.  never  could  set  down  a  breakfast  to  me  like  that.  I  assured  her 
I  would  take  nothing  else.  "  Sliall  I  fry  some  ham  for  you  alone 
irith  the  eggs  ?"  said  slie.  "  No,"  said  I,  "  not  a  bit."  «  Well, 
.will  you  take  a  little  stewed  poik ?"  "No,"  said  1.  "Shall  I 
make  some  fritters  for  you  ?"  "  No."  "  Preserve  me,  what 
will  you  take,  then  ?"  "  A  little  bread,  and  tea,  and  an  egg." 
"  Well,  you're  the  most  extraordinary  man  that  I  ever  saw ;  but 
I  can't  set  down  a  table  that  way."  I  saw  that  I  was  only  to  lose 
time  by  contesting^  the  matter  farther;  so  I  allowed  her  to  follow 
her  own  plan  as  io  the  cooking,  assuring  her  that  I  would  take 
mine  as  to  eating.  She  detained  me  about  half  an  hour,  and  at 
last  placed  upon  the  table  a  profusion  of  ham,  eggs,  fritters, 
bread,  butter,  and  some  excellent  tea.  All  the  time  I  was 
at  breakfast,  she  kept  pressing  me  to  eat;  buft  I  kept  my  ownj 
Counsel,  and  touched  none  of  the  dishes,  except  the  bread,  tea, 
and  an  egg.  She  aflectetl  great  surprize,  ami  when  I  paid  her  the  | 
ordinary  fave,  a  quarter  of  a  dollar,  she  said  it  was  hardly  worth  j 
any  thing.  I  mention  this  circumstance  to  show  the  kind  ho$- 1 
pitality  of  the  landlady,  and  the.  good  living  enjoyed  by  the  back- 
woods people. 

About  a  mile  from  the  tavern,  I  passed  a  school,  and  thence | 
through  fertile  bottoms,  bounded  by  pretty  high  hills  well  calcula- 
ted for  stieep  grazing.     At  half  past  111  crossed  the  river,  whicli 
was  above  knee  deep,  ami  about  80  yards  wide,  with  a  finegri-l 
velly   bottmn.      At    12   o'clock    1   passed  through  New  Comer'sl 
town,  and  travelled  about  half  an  hour  through  jMVtty  extensivel 
plains.     I  then  ascemled  a  little  hill,  with  a  spring  by  the  side  oil 
the  way,  which  had  a  very  bad  smell ;  and  I  observed  in  them 
bourhood  a  great  deal  of  wood  in  a   decaying  state,  and  a  vast| 
quantity   of  leaves  alniost  in  a  ste  of  putridity.     The   land  is  lui- 
commonly  rich ;  but   there  are  few  settlements.     From  hence  u| 
about  4  miles,  through  a  pretty  muddy   road,    to   Yankee-towu,! 
whk  J  there  are  a  number  of  thriving  setlleraents;  but,  ovviiigtol 
its  being  an  luditm  rc.serviiti<.>ft,  Uk;  settlers  cannot  become  posscssfdj 
of  the  land,    and  tliey  move  off  as  soon  as  they  get  land  of  ihein 
own;  so  that  the  place  will  prolxibly  not  socm  beof  mu<h  importance 


OHIO. 


448 


Beyond  Yankee-town  I  again  crossed  the  river,  about  knee 
ifiep,  and  stopped  at  Gnadenhuttcn,  a  small  town,  con^sting  of 
3  of  4  houses,  a  post-office,  tavern,  and  store.  The  people  are 
mostly  Germans  from  Bedford,  Pennsylvania,  and  appear  to  l>e 
very  poor.  This  is  also  an  Indian  reservation.  Two  miles  and  a 
half  fi'om  Gnadenhntten  I  again  crossed  the  river,  above  knee 
deep,  the  bottom  fine  sand,  and  tho  water  pure.  The  road,  for 
a  mile  beyond  the  river,  is  very  bad,  through  a  rich  bottom,  after 
which  it  improves,  and  passes  through  a  very  beautiful  country 
to  Shocnbrun,  an  Indian  town,  consisting  of  a  few  houses  oidy. 
The  Indians  look  wretchedly  poor.  Haifa  mile  beyond  this  I 
aspin  crossed  the  river,  knee  deep,  and  t'lcncc  passed  on  through 
a  fine  level  plain,  a  few  miles,  to  New  Philadelphia,  where  I  i<toi>- 
ped  all  night. 

New  Philadelphia  is  situated  on  a  beautiful  plain  of  SOOO  acres, 
in  a  large  bend  oftlieTuscarawa  river.  It  was  laid  outin  ISO*,  and 
is  now  the  seat  of  justice  of  Tuacarawa  cwmty,  and  consists  of 
about  22  dwelling-houses,  containing  180  inhabitants.  It  is  di- 
vided into  lots  88  feet  square,  which  sell  at  from  20  to  200  dollars. 
The  settlers  are  mostly  Gei-mans  from  Pennsylvania.  The  pro- 
duce of  the  country  is  not  more  than  s'.!i  'cient  for  the  settlement, 
except  stock,  which  they  drive  to  the  eastward :  the  cattle  to 
Philsiilelphia,  and  the  hogs  to  Baltimore.  The  land  is  gooil  in  the 
rieighbourhood,  and  sells  for  about  4-  dollars  per  acre.  The  tim- 
ber is  oak,  hickory,  walnut,  sugar-maple,  and  elm ;  and  great 
quantities  of  Columbia  root  grows  in  the  woods,  of  which  500 
pounds  might,  in  some  places,  be  gathered  in  a  day.  Coal,  lime- 
stone, iron  ore,  and  freestone  abound  in  the  neighbourhood. 

October  15th.  This  morning  I  fell  in  with  an  honest  Dutch 
farmer,  and  a  young  man  from  ClevelaiKl ;  and,  as  they  were  go- 
ing the  same  road,  I  availed  myself  of  their  company.  We  tra- 
vrfletl  through  the  plain  about  2  miles,  and  I  obsei-ved  that  the 
soil  was  very  sandy,  and  a  great  under  growth  of  oak  had  sprung 
up  in  the  coun^e  of  a  few  years,  a  proof  that  these  open  prairies 
must  have  been  kept  clear  of  wood  by  the  atuiual  fires  of  the  In- 
dians. Some  of  the  adjoining  hills  were  cultivated,  and  bore  ex- 
cellent crops  t>f  wheat.  To  the  north  there  is  an  opening,  and 
2n  extensive  prospect. 

Two  miles  from  the  town  we  forded  the  river,  about  80  yards 
'ide,  and  about  knee  deep,  the  bottom  gravel,  and  the  banks  fcr- 


44i 


TRAVELS    IN 


tile,'  but  uncultivated.  The  lands  on  the  north  side  of  the  river 
rise  very  beautifully,  by  a  gradual  ascent,  and  are  of  an  excelleut 
quality.  I  was  told  that  a  considerable  quantity  was  here  for  sale. 
1  found  our  traveller  from  Lake  Erie  very  communicative,  and  he 
gave  me  a  great  deal  ot  information  about  the  banks  of  the  lake. 
The  German  told  me  he  was  settled,  very  much  to  his  satisfaction, 
not  far  from  where  I  breakfasted  yesterday  morning.  He  said  the 
fever  and  ague  will  be  very  temporary,  as  the  river  is  pure  water, 
and  the  lands  can  be  all  drained.  The  river  makes  a  considerable 
bend  to  the  eastward,  to  where  it  receives  the  waters  of  Gutgat- 
sink  creek,  and  the  road  runs  right  along  its  banks,  where  the 
whole  country  is  really  beautiful ;  but  as  we  proc>?eded  in  our 
course  the  bottom  on  which  we  travelled  became  narrow  and  stony. 
We  passed  the  river  by  a  fine  ford,  about  60  yards  wide,  as  usual 
about  knee  deep,  and  a  gravelly  bottom.  This  is  ths  seveiMh  time 
that  I  forded  this  river  since  I  left  Zanesville,  and  I  always  found 
nearly  the  same  result — clear  water,  knee  deep,  and  gravelly  bot- 
tom ;  and  1  have  no  hesitation  in  pronouncing  it  the  most  beautiful 
river  I  ever  saw,  except  the  Ohio ;  and  the  scenery  on  its  banks  is 
even  more  beautiful  than  on  the  Ohio.  This  is  a  very  fine  coun- 
try, and  will,  in  my  opinion,  become  the  seat  of  most  extensive 
and  thriving  settlements. 

After  crossing  the  river  we  called  at  the  house  of  a  Dutch 
farmer,  who  told  us  he  had  settled  here  10  years  ago,  at  which 
time  there  was  no  house  between  him  and  Gnadenhutten,  and 
there  are  now  numerous  settlements ;  a  proof  of  the  rapidity  with 
which  this  country^  is  settling  up.  We  travelled  along  a  fertile 
plain  on  the  river's  bank,  bounded  with  pretty  high  land  on  our 
right,  for  four  miles,  and  stopped  at  a  Dutch  tavern  to  breakfast. 

The  Dutch  people  make  excellent  settlers  in  a  new  country. 
they  are  a  pit)Uding,  slow,  sure-footed,  sober  race ;  and  have  an 
excellent  knack  at  finding  out  the  rich  places.  The  only  loe 
they  have  to  encounter  is  the  ague;  but  they  seem  tj  be  used  toi 
it,  as  the  fisherwoman's  eels  .^ere  to  skinning.  They  don't  mind 
a  shake.  Ont  of  the  women  here,  a  gre^t  long,  lank,  leathern- 
necke<l  liussy,  as  yellow  as  an  orange,  was  chattering  in  a  cor- 
ner like  a  pair  of  castanets;  but  the  rest  of  the  females  were suf- 
fi^ciently  active,  though,  blessed  be  the  maker,  they  were  "nae 
teniptation."  However  they  gave  us  an  excellent  breakfast,  for 
which,  we  cheerfully  paid  our  quarter  of  a  dollar  each,  and  do-  [ 
parted. 


OHIO. 


415 


A  few  miles  from  theucc  we  crossed  Sandy  creek,  where  it 
forms  the  junction  with  the  Tuscarawa.  It  is  here  a  considerable 
stream,  nearly  as  large  us  the  Tuscarawa  itself.  To  the  west  are 
extensive  prairies,  and  the  view  along  them  is  uncommonly  ele- 
gant. After  crossing  the  river  we  took  a  bye  path  which  led  us 
over  a  range  of  hills,  some  of  them  so  steep  that  we  could  hardly 
lit  on  our  horses;  and  about  two  miles  from  Sandy  river  we 
fell  into  the  main  road,  where  the  German  left  me,  and  I  jogged 
on  alone  towards  Canton,  now  nine  miles  distant.  On  getting 
over  the  hilly  district,  the  road  passes  through  a  tract  of  wet, 
muddy  land ;  the  soil  is  rich,  and  heavily  timbered,  but  the  road 
very  bad ;  and  this  continues  to  within  two  miles  of  Canton,  where 
the  country  opens  out  into  a  very  extensive  prairie.  Along  this  I 
rode  a  little  way,  when  I  passcu  a  branch  of  Nimshilen  creek, 
which  I  forded  about  knee  deep.  Tiiere  I  passed  through  a  small 
stripe  of  wood,  and  entering  the  prairie  on  the  east  side  of  it,  1 
had  a  view  of  Canton,  finely  situated  in  the  open  plain,  and  reach- 
ed it  at  three  o'clock. 


;  ,    V      CHAPTER  LXXXVIII.  >     . 

Ccniton, — Canton  district, — Connecticut  resetue, — Cleveland, 

Canton  is  the  seat  of  jus^^ice  for  Stark  county,  and  is  situated 
in  latitude  4fO°  48',  about  100  miles  from  Pittsb  rg,  and  nearly  400 
from  Philadelphia.  It  is  regularly  laid  out  in  streets  and  lots» 
The  streets  are  from  80  to  100  feet  wide,  crossing  ore  another  at 
right  angles,  and  there  if  a  square  in  the  centre.  The  lets  are 
about  250  in  number  and  66  feet  in  front  by  198  deep,  being  near 
one-third  of  an  acre,  and  they  sell  for  from  50  to  300  dollars. 

Canton  was  laid  out  about  five  years  ago,  and  now  consists  of 
80  dwelling-houses,  four  taverns,  and  nine  stores.  The  number 
of  inhabitants  is  about  250.     There  are  no  public  buildings. 

The  inhabitants  are  composed  of  farmers  and  mechanics,  and 
are  mostly  from  Pennsylvania.  No  manufactures  have  yet  been 
established  except  in  families,  but  these  are  general;  and  there  are 
a  number  of  mills  in  the  ncighbourhoad,  and  several  wool  carding 
machines.  Shccj)  thrive  remarkably  well  in  the  neighbourhood, 
•ind  it  is  presumed  a  manufacture  of  coarse  woollens  would  succeed. 


V;  i::  lip      '■'  U 


446  TRAVELS    IK 

The  price  of  labour  is  nearly  the  same  as  at  EanesviHe ,  common 
Ittbtnircrs  have  50  cents  pet  day  and  found,  masons,  carpenters 
&c.,  one  dollar  per  day.  The  great  influx  of  new  settlers  consume 
all  the  surplus  provisions,  except  stock ;  wlilch  is  sent  to  a  market 
at  Philadelphia  and  Baltimore.  Flour  sells  at  five  dollars  per  bar. 
rel,  beef  at  3  dollars  50  cents  per  cwt. 

The  cliniate  is  pretty  healthy.  Some  few  cases  of  fever  and  ague 
occur,  but  they  are  not  very  common.      '  ' 

«  Canton  Dismrcr  was  lately  purchased  from  the  Indians,  and 
extends  from  the  Tuscarawa  river  about  €8  miles  to  the  westward? 
ami  from  the  Connecticut  reservation  to  the  north  boundary  of 
Zanesville  and  Chillicothe  districts,  its  average  breadth  being  2S 
miles.     Its  area  is  about  1800  square  miles,  or  1,152,000  acres. 

The  district  is  early  all  level,  and  fit  for  cultivation,  but  it  is 
in  many  parts  very  miwldy,  a  circumstance  common  in  the  districts 
situated  on  the  head  waters  of  the  rivers  in  this  state.  On  this  ac- 
count it  is  difficult  to  make  good  roads,  and  it  requires  a  pretty 
thick  population  to  drain  the  country,  and  make  it  agreeable;  but 
there  is  a  sufficient  descent  for  carrying  off  the  water,  and  this  will 
be  a  very  desirable  country  sofhe  time  hence.  It  is  abundantly 
supplied  with  springs  and  streams  of  pure  water.  There  is  a  great 
deal  of  prairie  or  meadow  land  interspersed  through  it. 

The  principal  timber  is  walnut,  poplar,  ash,  elm,  oak,  sugar 
maple,  and  hickory.  The  soil  is  well  adapted  to  the  culture  of 
grain,  grass,  tobacco,  hemp,  &c. 

This  district  is  settling  up  mostly  by  people  from  Pennsylvania. 
It  i«  divided  into  two  counties ;  but  the  population  is  yet  v^ry  thiD, 
and  is  principally  confined  to  tlie  banks  of  the  rivers.  Very  fa< 
vour^ble  purchases  could  at  present  be  made  in  tlie  district.  The 
greater  part  of  the  laud  is,  of  course,  in  the  hands  of  the  United 
Stfvtes  government.  The  i^ice  has  been  noticed  beiiue-  The  land- 
o£&ce  is  at  Canton. 

October  16th,  Last  evening  the  weather  was  very  warm,  with 
a  south  wind,  and  thicl:  dense  clouds.  Towards  nine  o'clock  it 
cleared  up,  but  the  sky  was  heavy,  and  indicated  nun.  The  comd 
wai  to  be  seen  witii  an  uncommonly  long  tail.  In  the  morning  it 
became  suildenly  cool,  und  it  rained  violently  till  about  1 1  o'clock. 
I  Wjis  anxious  to  noove  on ;  but  I  could  not  complain,  for  this  was 
the  only  detention  I  met  witli  from  the  weather,  except  half  an  Iwur 
on  the  Ohio,  in  a  journey  of  1500  miles.     At  12  o'clock  it  cleared 


OHIO.  447 

up,  and  having  met  with  a  travelling  companion  going  to  Spnng- 
ficld)  iu  the  Connecticut  reservation,  we  set  out  together. 

We  travelled  about  a  mile  through  the  open  plain,  when  wc  en- 
tered the  woods,  but  the  trees  were  uot  thick.  Six  miles  from 
Canton  we  passed  a  branch  of  Nunishilen  creeks  where  a  saw->miU 
is  erected,  the  proj)eity  of  a  Mr.  Everhort ;  and  about  a  mik  fur- 
ther we  came  to  a  very  muddy  road,  through  a  thick  wood,  where 
we  met  with  a  sudden  alarm.  In  the  course  of  our  journey  the 
weather  had  assumed  a  settled  aspect,  and  the  son  occasionally 
peeped  through  the  clouds ;  but  now  the  sky  was  suddenly  overcast, 
tod  it  began  to  rain.  We  took  shelter  below  a  large  tree.  In  a 
few  mkiutes  we  heard  a  noise  like  distant  thunder,  and  it  continued 
to  ^preach  us.  It  was  the  efibct  of  tlie  wind  on  the  woods,  wlucli 
reacKiiig  us  brought  duwn  a  limb  £rom  a  tree  in  our  neigbbourhoml 
with  a  crash.  We  Letl  our  position,  and  moved  onwxird  as  last  as 
a  road,  which  nearly  took  our  horses  to  the  knees,  would  allow  u«. 
The  storm  increased — tlic  wind  raged — limbs  cracked,  and  the 
leaves  of  ti*ees  flew  about  in  all  directions,  darkening  tlie  aii'  in 
their  flight :  the  woods  rung  with  the  falling  oi'  trees ;  and,  to  com- 
plete the  alarm,  a  whole  tree  was  blown  down  with  dreodfiil  vio- 
ieoce  clo«e  by  us.  We  were  for  a  few  moments  rivcttcd  to  the  spot; 
bat  our  alarm  soon  subsided — it  was  now  a  dead  calm — all  was  as 
sileot  as  the  grave,  and  nothing  of  the  squall  remained  but  its  e:!(- 
traordiuary  effects  on  the  woods. 

We  moved  on,  and  came  to  a  little  dealing,  and  a  small  cabin, 
where  we  proposed  taking  shelter ;  but  the  pjeople  giving  it  as  Uieir 
opinion  that  the  storm  was  over,  we  went  on  to  a  tavern  1 0  miles 
from  Canton.  The  family  informed  us  that  they  had  moved  from 
Maryland,  and  were  of  German  origin ;  they  could  still  speak 
German,  although  their  grandfather  h&d  left  his  native  i^ountry  60 
or  70  yeai's  ago.  "  ' 

After  leaving  the  tavern  about  a  mUe,  we  saw  a  test  pitclied  in 
the  woods  a  little  off  the  ro:id,  and  turned  aside  to  make  inquiries. 
This  was  an  euiigi  ant  taraily,  consisting  of  a  man,  his  wife,  arttl  two 
children.  They  had  travelled  far  in  quest  of  a  settlcoieut,  and  their 
means  being  exhausted,  they  were  obliged  to  stop  sliort  at  tliifi 
place,  wlieve  they  naeant  to  sit  down  and  clear  and  cultivate  a  piece 
of  Lind.  In  the  language  of  the  country,  they  were  sqwUtets.  The 
only  visible  substance  they  had,  was  a  tent,  a  waggon,  a  horse,  a 
cow.  Olid  tome  bedding.     The  tent  and  bedding  had  been  dr<E:iu:h- 


\.i 


M 


448 


TRAVELS    IN 


ed  by  the  rain,  but  they  had  a  large  fire  before  the  door,  at  which 
the  bedding  was  hung  up  to  dry,  and  tliey  sat  round  it  apparently 
very  contented.  Little  do  those  who  live  in  cities  know  of  the  hard- 
ships to  be  endured  by  those  who  subdue  and  settle  the  wilderness ! 
and  yet  perhaps  the  lite  of  the  latter  is  most  to  be  envied ;  they 
are  free  from  all  care  except  that  of  providing  for  their  families, 
and  the  real  wants  of  a  family  are  easily  supplied ;  they  have  no 
credit  to  support  nor  bills  to  pay ;  and  they  can  train  up  their  chil- 
dren in  the  paths  of  virtue  and  of  industry,  far  removed  frotn  the 
evil  example  of  the  wicked ;  no  artificial  circumstance  stands  be- 
tween them  and  theii*  maker :  they  can  behold  the  bounty  of  his 
providence  in  theirflocks,  and  herds,  and  in  the  fields  around  them ; 
they  can  work  their  daily  task,  confident  of  a  reward  ;  and,  bless- 
ing the  God  of  mercies,  they  can  repose  their  heads  on  the  pillow, 
and  enjoy  a  sweet  sleep,  the  reward  of  rational  labour,  and  a  good 
conscience. 

A  little  beyond  this  encampment  the  country  becomes  ridgy  and 
barren ;  we  travelled  a  mile,  when  we  crossed  the  Tuscarawa,  by  a 
wooden  bridge.  This  is  now  the  eighth  time  that  I  have  crossed 
this  river  since  leaving  Zanesville.  Here  it  is  a  small  stream,  quite 
covered  with  brushwood,  and  its  source  is  in  a  small  lake,  a  few  miles 
to  the  eastward.  We  now  entered  into  the  Connecticut  Reserva- 
tion, at  the  4 1st  degree  of  latitude,  and  this  being  the  dividing  ridge 
between  the  northern  and  southern  waters,  the  same  train  of  reflec- 
tions occurred  as  on  the  top  of  the  Allegany  mountains  (see  page 
306.)  On  a  shower  of  rain  falling  here,  part  of  it  finds  its  way  to 
the  ocean  at  New  Orleans,  and  part  at  thegulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  dis- 
tant upwards  of  2000  miles. 

After  passing  the  ridge  we  came  into  a  fine  open  plain  of  fertile 
land,  in  which  were  a  great  many  fields  of  wheat,  and  about  the 
midde  of  it  my  fellow  traveller  and  I  parted.  At  the  end  of  this 
plain  the  road  winds  to  the  westward,  through  pretty  thick  woods, 
in  which  I  travelled  about  three  miles,  and  coming  to  a  small  open- 
ing, 1  stopped  for  the  night  at  the  house  of  a  Mr.  Bradley. 

Mr.  Bradley  told  me  he  moved  from  the  north-west  corner . ' 
Connecticut  to  Canfield,  35  miles  to  the  eastward,  and  two  ycai's 
ago  he  had  removed  to  this  place.  This  township  is  called  Spring- 
field, and  has  settled  up  pretty  fast  within  a  few  years  ;  it  now  con- 
tains 24.  laniilies.  It  has  been  tolerably  healthy  this  seasoii ;  but 
some  of  the  adjoining  townships  have  been  very  much  afflicted  witli 


OHIO. 


449 


fever  and  ague.  There  is  a  number  of  tracts  of  good  land  in 
the  town,  and  it  is  favourable  for  raising  all  sorts  of  small  grain, 
mrass,  and  vegetables.  Pumpkins  grow  to  an  enormous  size,  and 
Ae  people  live  a  /rood  deal  upon  pumpkin  \Aes. 

Mr.  Bradley  has  a  thriving  family  of  six  sons  and  one  daughter. 
They  have  (juite  the  Connecticut  appearance.  They  say  they  like 
this  country  very  well. 

October  17.  I  set  out  from  Mr.  Bradley's  at  half  past  6  o'clock; 
the  morning  was  clear,  with  a  little  frost.  Having  travelled  about 
tiiree  miles,  througli  a  muddy  road,  I  crossed  the  south  branch  of 
the  Cayahogtt  river  by  a  wooden  bridge.  It  is  here  a  dull  black 
jlream,  covered  with  brushwood.  The  north  bank  rises  by  agcn- 
tte  elevation,  and  is  capable  of  cultivation ;  bui  it  is  poor  land.  I 
I  was  now  in  Tamage  township ;  the  country  is  very  thinly  settled, 
and  the  road  deplorably  bad.  Having  passed  through  'i'Hnjage  five 
imlcs,  I  entered  into  Stow,  and  soon  after  crossed  the  main  branch 
of  the  Cayahoga  river,  by  a  shallow  ford ;  the  river  is  about  80  yards 
broad,  and  the  bottom  stony.  There  are  several  settlenuiits  on  its 
banks,  mostly  of  people  frotn  Connecticut.  About  a  mile  from  the 
rirer  I  stopped  to  breakfast. 

Here  I  was  informed  by  the  family,  that  they  were  from  Mid- 
dicton,  Connecticut ;  from  whence  a  good  many  of  the  settlers  in 
this  town  are.  The  coimtry  has  sullered  a  good  deal  from  fever 
and  ague  this  summer ;  more,  indeed,  than  in  any  season  they  have 
been  in  the  country,  now  10  years.  This  township  contains  about 
10 famities,  20  of  whom  have  settled  here  within  two  years.  The 
adjoining  towns  of  Olmstead  and  Northampton  are  not  well  settled, 
being  very  much  subject  to  lever  and  ague,  which  is  the  case  in  a 
great  part  of  Portage  county,  ami  the  settlers  now  move  more  to  the 
Fire  lands.  The  town  of  Hudson,  to  the  north,  is  an  old  and  thriv- 
ing settlement ;  the  people  have  fine  dairies,  and  make  a  great  quan- 
tity of  exceHent  cheese  and  butter  for  the  supply  of  other  parts  of 
tbe  country,  and  for  the  New  Orleans  market. 

Hitherto  I  had  seen  nothing  but  log  houses  since  I  left  Canton, 
and  I  was  desirous  of  seeing  Hudson,where  I  was  told  there  were  a 

nwTiber  of  handM>me  frame  houses;     but   I   was  informed   the 

foad  was  so  bad  that  I  could  not  get  along,  and  was  advised  to  go 
[by  the  portage  path. 

In  pursuance  of  this  advice,  I  took  a  road  leading  to  the  west- 
|»wd,  by  the  banks  of  the  river,  on  which  there  were  sonic  settle- 

57 


'(\^^ 


450  TRAVELS    IN 

ments,  and  I  passed  a  beautiful  little  lake  of  pure  water.  About  3 
miles  from  the  tavern  I  came  into  the  portage  road,  and  turning 
to  the  northward  about  half  a  mile,  I  came  to  a  pretty  little  settle- 
ment on  the  banks  of  a  stream  called  Mud  creek,  where  there  u. 
a  fine  fall  of  water  and  a  saw-mill.  The  people  here  look  healthy, 
and  on  asking  one  of  them  how  he  liked  the  country,  he  answered, 
"mighty  well." 

.  I  passed  the  creek  by  a  wooden  bridge,  from  whence  the  road  as. 
cends  a  pretty  steep  bank,  from  which  I  anticipated  a  good  rond ; 
but  was  sadly  disappointed.  It  passed  through  a  series  of  mud 
swamps,  in  some  of  which  my  horse  sunk  to  the  knees.  Gettimr 
through  these,  I  reached  a  dry  elevated  rising  ground,  where  I  saw 
two  deer  bound  across  before  me,  and  several  very  large  black  tur- 
kies  took  flight  from  the  tops  of  the  trees.  Six  miles  from  the  creek 
I  passed  a  farm-house,  where  I  was  told  that  the  Cayahoga  river 
was  2  miles  to  the  westward,  and  that  I  was  now  in  the  lowiiship 
of  Boston.  From  thence  I  passed  through  the  worst  road  I  had 
yet  seen  in  America,  8  miles,  and  reached  a  small  settlement  at 
the  junction  of  the  Hudson  road  with  the  portage  road ;  here  I  stop- 
ped to  feed  my  hors<^  after  the  fatiguing  journey  it  had  encounter- 
ed. 1  thought  I  must  surely  have  been  mishiformed  as  to  the  road 
by  Hudson  i  it  could  not  be  so  bad  as  that  I  had  pa^jsed.  I  men- 
tioned this  to  the  landlord ;  but  he  assured  me  that  my  informa- 
tion was  quite  correct.  The  Hudson  road  was  10  degrees  worse 
than  the  other.  While  I  stopped  here,  a  family  came  in  widi 
a  waggon,  who  informed  me  they  were  from  Champlain,  out  5 
weeks,  and  were  bound  for  the  Miami  country.  From  Cham- 
plain  to  the  Miami  country  is  not  less  than  800  miles, — a  long 
and  fatiguing  journey  for  a  family ;  but  they  will  have  a  beau- 
tiful and  fertile  country  when  they  arrive  at  their  place  of  des- 
tination. 

Soon  after  leaving  this  place  1  came  up  with  a  waggoner, 
who  informed  me  his  business  was  to  haul  salt,  &c.  from  Cleveland, 
on  the  lake,  to  the  portage  on  the  Tuscarawa,  and  that  the  dis- 
tance was  about  42  miles.  He  had  been  out  in  the  rain  all 
yesterday,  and  was  out  in  the  frost  all  night  without  afire,  or  the 
means  of  making  one.  A  few  miles  from  where  we  met  we 
reached  a  settlement  on  Tinker's  creek,  where  we  stopped  all 
night.  , . 

Tinker's  creek  has  its  rise  beyond  the  town  of  Hudson,  anJ 


Islander,    who  lo 


OHIO. 


451 


is  here  a  considerable  stream,  running  in  a  deep  valley,  where  it 
drives  several  mills.  It  falls  into  the  Cayahoga  river,  a  little  be- 
low where  we  stopped. 

The  landlord  was  from  home,  and  the  family  were  ill  provided. 
They  had  no  bread,  nor  wherewithal  to  make  it ;  they  had  no 
beef,  and  no  sugnr ;  but  they  had  some  bad  tea,  bad  potatoes, 
and  pork  such  ns  I  have  seen  in  North  Carolina.  They  made  a 
sort  of  non-descript  dish,  by  stewing  a  few  slices  of  potatoes  with 
the  pork,  and  served  it  up,  swimming  in  butter.  It  put  me  in 
mind  of  Burns' 

•      .   /  I    .     ,        -  Olio  that  would  staw  a  sow." 

However,  my  fellow-traveller,  the  salt-hauler,  made  a  very  hear- 
ty menl ;  and  I  took  a  liitle,  and  but  a  little  of  it,  albeit  I  had  got  no 
dinner,  and  had  n  pretty  good  appetite.  Some  milk  came  in 
from  the  cows,  of  which  I  partook  freely,  and  an  obliging  Rhode 
LIunder,  who  lodged  at  the  house,  favoured  me  with  a  little 
vfhiskey  and  water,  which  I  found  a  real  cordial. 

The  night  was  very  cold,  and  the  kitchen,  which  contained 
the  only  fire  in  the  house,  being  ill  secured  against  it,  I  retired 
to  bed  in  an  adjoining  room.  As  I  dreaded  the  effects  of  the  cold, 
I  threw  my  own  clothes  over  the  bed>clothes,  and,  noticing  a 
pane  out  of  one  of  the  windows,  I  shoved  an  empty  bag  into  it, 
and  retired  to  rest. 

October  18th.  I  awoke  early  this  morning,  shivering  with 
cold,  and  wished  it  might  soon  be  day-light,  that  I  might  depart 
from  thi  i  uncomfortable  place.  At  last  day  dawned,  and  I  was 
not  long  in  perceiving  the  light,  for  it  poured  in  upon  me  in  all 
directions,  perpendicularly,  diagonally,  and  laterally.  The  house 
was  literally  like  a  riddle,  and  there  was  an  opening  almost  close 
by  my  bed-side,  that  would  have  let  in  a  horse.  When  I  looked 
round,  and  perceived  so  many  openings,  1  could  not  but  laugh 
I  at  my  precaution  of  last  night,  in  stopping  up  the  broken  window ; 
where,  however,  I  allowed  the  bag  to  remain,  as  an  admonition 
to  the  people  to  repair  the  house  before  winter,  .  ' 

At  half  past  6  I  set  out  towards  Cleveland,  now  1 2  miles  dis- 
I  tiint.  I  ascended  from  the  creek  by  a  pretty  steep  path,  from 
I  whence  I  travelled  a  few  miles  to  another  creek,  having  a  fall  of 
UboutSO  feet,  and  handsome  free-stone  banks.     I  saw  some  mills. 


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TRAVKLS   IN 


but  they  were  idle,  and  appeared  to  be  going  to  decay.    The 
country  appeared  poor,  and  the  people  sickly. 

From  Canton  to  this  place,  the  travelling  had  been  far  from 
agreeable ;  the  roads  were  muddy,  and  often  deep ;  and  the  coun- 
try was  DUO  dull  plain,  withont  a  single  object  to  exhilarate  the 
imagination,  or  cheer  the  spirits  ;  and  latterly  the  people  looked 
pale  and  sickly.  But  I  was  buoyed  up  with  the  anticipation  of 
the  beauties  of  Lake  Erie,  to  which  I  posted  with  all  the  alacrity  of 
impatience.  I  notice^!,  as  I  went  alon^^,  that  the  country  on 
the  banks  of  the  Cayahoga  river  were  improved;  the  road  led  by  a 
high  bank,  from  whence  there  was  a  fine  view  to  the  westward ; 
the  bottoms  on  the  river  were  extensive  and  fertile ;  though  I  ob- 
served the  seeds  of  disease  in  its  slow,  sluggish,  winding  course, 
choked  up  with  a  vast  quantity  of  vegetable  matter  undergoing  de- 
composition ;  and  at  every  settlement  I  passed,  the  pale,  sickly 
visages  of  the  inhabitants  confirmed  the  remark.  At  last,  Lake 
Erie  appeared,  with  a  beautiful,  blue,  placid  surface,  checkering 
through  the  trees.  I  reached  Cleveland;  but,  without  stopping 
to  examine  the  city,  I  rode  on  to  the  bank,  where,  from  an  emi- 
nence about  70  feet  high,  1  beheld  the  lake  in  all  its  glory.  To 
the  northward,  no  land  was  to  be  seen  ;  and  to  the  east  and  west, 
the  banks  were  high,  and  the  scenery  very  picturesque;  the  view 
was  really  sublime.  I  was  delighted  with  it ;  and,  full  of  the 
pleasing  sensations  which  such  a  view  was  calculated  to  excite,  I 
pursued  my  way  to  the  tavern.  But,  O  I  what  a  contrast  was 
there !  the  people  looked  pale,  sickly,  and  dejected.  I  learned 
that  they  had  been  afflicted  with  a  very  severe  sickness  this  sea- 
son. It  was  periodical,  they  said:  and  generally  fever  and  ague; 
but  this  season  it  had  been  worse  than  usual,  and  accompanied 
with  some  very  severe  cases  of  bilious  fever.  I  found  that  this  had 
proved  a  complete  check  upon  the  improvement  of  Cleveland, 
which,  though  dignified  with  the  name  of  a  cityi  remained  a  pal- 
try village,  containing  a  few  houses  only. 


OHIO. 


45S 


CHAPTER  LXXXIX. 

Ckvelandy — Banh  of  Lake  Eric. 

There  are  certain  striking  circumstances  which  have  a  ten- 
dency to  make  a  forcible  and  durable  impression  upon  the  mind; 
and  it  is  the  object  of  reason  to  correct  them,  and  render  them 
consistent  with  truth.  From  Vohiey's  View  of  the  Climate  of  the 
United  States,  I  was  led  to  believe  that  the  banks  of  Lake  Erie 
were  unhealthy.*  The  first  point  I  landed  at  was  "infested  with 
fevers,"  and  I  naturally  concluded,  that  the  account  which  repre- 
sents these  to  be  general  on  its  margin  was  correct.  I  met  with  a 
Mr.  Strong  at  Cleveland,  who  was  recently  from  Onondago,  in 
the  state  of  New  York,  and  had  travelled  along  the  banks  of  the 
lake  to  the  eastward.  I  communicated  my  impressions  to  him, 
when  he  assured  me  they  were  incorrect,  for  he  had  not  met  with 
any  sickness  on  the  lake  before  he  reached  this  place.  He  in- 
formed nic  that  his  object  was  to  make  a  survey  of  part  of  the 
i^teof  Ohio,  with  a  view  of  finding  a  township  of  good  land,  in 
an  agreeable  situation,  that  he  and  some  of  his  neighbours  might 
retire  to.  On  this  account,  he  had  paid  particular  attention  to  the 
banks  of  the  lake,  and  found  no  sickness  whatever ;  but  the  land 
he  considered  as  not  the  best,  and  resolved  to  extend  his  tour. 
He  was  waiting  for  a  travelling  companion,  who  was  coming  by 
water  from  Buffalo. 

Mr.  Strong  and  I  having  the  same  object  in  view,  thai  of 
procuring  authentic  information,  cemented  a  temporary  friend- 
ship. I  found  him  an  intelligent,  well-informed  man,  and  got  a 
good  deal  of  local  information  from  him.  We  took  a  walk  to  the 
lake  shore,  and  went  along  to  the  outlet  of  the  river.  The  river 
winds  through  rich  bottoms  by  a  very  sluggish  stream,  and  when 
within  40  or  50  yards  of  the  lake,  holds  a  west  course  of  about 
30O  yards,  and  is  divided  all  the  way  from  the  Take  by  a  narrow 
sand-bank.  The  mouth  of  the  river  is  cboaked  up  by  a  sund-bar, 
which  dams  up  the  water,  and  prevents  it  from  having  a  fres 
passage.    It  stands  in  a  deep  pool,  two  or  three  miles  long ;  and 

*  "  In  the  western  country,  I  should  prefer  to  live,  100  yetrs  hence,  on  the  mar- 
iia  of  Lake  £rie^  for  than  It  will  not,  as  n«w,  be  infitted  with  feTen."«*yolBe7% 

Vi«w.  '     '. 


)'•      •■■   .Hill*'!    '* 


■  If  tf 


H'i'  '1-4 
I'll 


45+ 


TnAVELS    IS 


the  wntcr  bein^  stagnant,  and  contaminated  liy  dccnying  vegeta- 
bles, afflicts  the  inhabitants  on  its  margin  with  fever  and  ague. 
If  putrid  animal  substances  be  added,  they  will  be  afliictcd  with 
bilious  fever.  I  am  of  opinion,  that  it  must  becontnininalcd  with 
putrid  animal  substances  when  we  visited  it,  lor  the  smell  was 
almost  insufferable ;  and  I  can  account  for  it  no  way  so  well,  ns 
by  supposing  that  the  contaminated  water  had  killed  the  fishc*. 
I  have  frequently  observed  water  impregnated  with  decayed  vege- 
table substances  to  have  this  effect,  and  it  appeared  to  nic,  that 
the  water  was  sufficiently  impregnatetl  to  have  it  here.  Should 
this  be  the  true  solution,  a  radical  cure  may  be  su^>;gestfd.  and 
it  is  intimately  connected  with  another  important  siibieci  that 
of  making  a  good  harbour  at  this  place,  and  of  complcli:  ^  {lie 
communication  by  water  between  lake  Eric  and  the  Ohi(>  livcr, 
by  a  canal. 

It  is  found  that  the  Cavahojra  river  can  be  rendered  uavl-'a- 
ble  about  50  miles,  to  where  there  is  a  portage  of  between,  oven 
and  eight  miles  to  the  Tuscarawa  river;  and  the  state  of  Ohio, 
aware  of  the  importance  of  this  navigation,  passed  an  act  to  pro- 
vide for  its  improvement  by  a  lottery  ;  but  a  suflicicnt  number  of 
the  tickets  have  not  been  sold ;  the  lottery  is  undrawn ;  and  con- 
sequently nothing  has  been  done.  Two  of  the  most  discouraging 
circumstances  are  the  want  of  a  harbour,  and  the  sickness  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river  preventing  a  respectable  settlement  at  Cleve- 
land. The  inconvenience  arising  from  the  want  of  a  harbour, 
will  be  sufficiently  obvious  by  stating,  that  a  brig  which  had  been 
built  in  the  river  lay  in  it  while  I  was  there,  and  could  not  be 
got  into  the  lake  by  reason  of  the  sand-bar.  The  sickness  I  have 
noticed. 

The  difficulty  might,  in  my  opinion,  he  obviated  by  cutting  a 
channel  for  the  river,  directly  through  the  sand-bar  before  no- 
ticed, at  the  foot  of  the  high  bank  on  which  Cleveland  stands, 
and  then  running  a  pier,  forming  the  segment  of  a  circle,  along 
the  west  side  of  the  new  cut,  so  as  to  shield  the  river  from  the 
north-west  winds,  and  prevent  it  from  being  choakcd  up  with 
sand.  This  would  secure  a  free  outlet  to  the  river ;  and  the  busi- 
ness could  be  completed  by  clearing  out  the  brush  and  rubbish  to 
the  head  of  the  navigation.  Should  these  circumstances  be  attended  to 
and  succeed,  the  result  would  make  Cleveland  a  very  healthy,  as  it 
certainly  is  a  very  beautiful  place,  and  confer  a  lasting  advantage  on 


OHIO. 


455 


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the  state  of  Ohio.  Tlic  subject  deserves  legislative  attention,  and 
nieiita  the  particular  notice  of  those  gentlemen  who  are  resi- 
dents, or  proprietors  of  the  lands,  in  the  Connecticut  reservation. 

The  founders  of  Cleveland  have,  no  doubt,  been  impressed  with 
the  belief  that  it  would  be  u  place  of  great  importance,  and  it  has 
been  noticed  that  it  is  dignified  with  the  title  of  a  city,  althouirh  it 
contains  only  16  dwelling-houses,  '2  taverns,  2  stores,  antl  1 
kIiuuI.  There  is  a  little  trade  in  salt,  and  sometimes  a  little  in 
flour,  pork,  and  whiskey ;  but  the  whole  is  trifling,  and  will  con- 
tinue so,  until  a  harbour  be  formed.  Should  that  be  done,  it 
may  in  time  conmiand  a  pretty  extensive  trade.  The  country  at 
present  has  no  flour  nor  provisions  to  spare  :  they  are  all  taken  up 
by  the  emigrants  who  yearly  pour  into  it.  Wheat  was  1  dollar 
per  bushel,  r^'e  75  cents,  oats  ^7^,  potatatoes  50,  flour  7  dollars 
per  barrel,  beef  3  dollars  50  cents  per  cwt.,  mutton  and  veal  5  to 
6  cents  per  lb.,  pork  5  dollars  per  cwt.,  cheese  (good  Hudson)  10 
cents  per  lb.,  butter  12 J,  whiskey,  50  cents  per  gallon,  cyder  7 
dollars  per  barrel,  salt  I  dollar  '20  cents  per  cwt.  Fish  are  very 
plenty  in  the  lake,  and  white  fish  are  put  in  barrels  nt  10  dollars 
per  barrel ;  horses  sell  from  50  to  100  dollars,  cows  20  to  25 
dollars,  sheep  2  dollars  50  cents.  Boarding  at  a  tavern  is  3  dol- 
lars per  week. 

October  1 9th.  This  morning  I  set  out,  accompanied  by  Mr. 
Strong,  to  visit  Rocky  river,  distant  about  seven  miles  to  the 
westward.  We  crossed  the  Cayahoga  river  by  a  flat.  The  land 
to  the  westward  was  level,  and  the  road  muddy,  but  the  soil  is 
pretty  good,  and  is  capable  of  being  drained;  having  a  gentle 
slope  to  the  lake.  The  woods  are  mostly  white  oak,  chesnut,  and 
beech.  About  three  miles  from  Cleveland,  we  passed  a  road 
which  led  to  Columbia,  from  whence  we  saw  some  travellers,  and 
they  informed  us  that  it  had  been  very  sickly  this  season.  We 
saw  no  settlements  all  the  way  to  Rocky  river,  but  there  is  one 
at  its  outlet,  on  a  high  bank,  the  settlers  on  which  were  sickly. 
We  found  a  general  idea  prevailing  here,  that  the  whole  coun- 
try was  sickly  between  these  two  rivers. 

Rocky  river,  like  Cayahoga  river,  has  high  banks,  and  its 
mouth  is  shut  up  by  the  north-west  winds  on  the  lake,  which  cause 
the  water  to  btagnate,  and,  until  means  be  devised  to  obviate  this 
inconvenience,  the  country,  at  its  outlet,  must  be  unheallhy. 
There  were  no  settlements  along  its  banks  upwards,  frout  which  vve 


M, 


I'' 

:,.4 


456 


TRAVELS    IN 


coukl  draw  n  conclusion ;  but  I  should  iniagime,  from  its  appear- 
unco,  that  it  would  be  more  healthy  than  Cuyahoga  river. 

A  small  vc'sel  had  put  in  hero,  with  a  family,  bound  upward  to 
Sandusky  bay,  to  wait  a  fair  wind;  and  one  of  the  children  was 
taken  sick  last  night,  but  had  got  n  little  better  tliis  morning. 

On  our  return,  we  met  two  men  on  horseback,  who  told  us  they 
were  scttleil  five  miles  to  the  westward  of  Rocky  river,  and  the 
coutJtry  there  was  quite  healthy  and  well  settled.  One  of  them 
was  from  Masuachusetts,  and  said  he  liked  this  country  much 
better  than  his  native  Ktute,  chiefly  on  account  of  the  mild  winters. 

The  morning  had  been  warm,  rather  sultry,  indeed,  with  a 
south  wind.  On  our  return  to  Cleveland,  I  perceived  all  the  signs 
of  an  approaching  storm.  About  3  o'clock,  the  wind  shifted  to 
the  north-west,  and  a  violent  gale  commenced,  acconipanied  with 
rain,  thunder,  and  liglitning.  The  weather  became  very  cohl  fw 
about  half  an  hour  :  but  the  storm  spent  its  force ;  the  wind  regain- 
ed its  old  position  ;  and  the  temperature  of  the  air  was  restored  to 
near  its  former  state.  It  rained  very  heavily  all  the  aftornooon 
and  evening. 

October  20th.'  On  getting  up  this  morning,  I  found  the  weather 
very  cold.  The  wind  was  blowing  a  gale  from  the  north-west, 
accompanied  by  rain,  and  occasionally  sleet  and  snow.  The  lake 
exhibited  all  the  appearances  of  the  ocean  in  a  storm,  and  the  river 
was  so  dammal  up,  that  it  overflowed  its  banks.  We  were  inform- 
ed that  some  of  the  trailers  on  the  lake  wouhl  be  in  great  jeopardy, 
particularly  two  vessels  tbat  were  boimd  for  the  port  of  Cleveland, 
and  had  been  several  times  in  the  ofling,  without  being  able  to 
make  a  landing.  It  was  supposed  they  would  be  driven  back  to 
BuiFulo,  200  miles  distant,  at  the  east  end  of  the  lake.  A  number 
of  mechanics  tailed  at  the  tavern,  on  their  way  to  Sandusiky  bay, 
t'>  which  there  hail  been  a  great  emigration  the  two  last  seasons. 

The  iletention  at  Cleveland  afforded  me  an  opportunity  of  con- 
versing with  a  number  of  people  well  acquainted  with  the  Conncc. 
ticut  reservation,  the  lake,  the  banks  of  the  lake  to  the  westward, 
and  Michigan  territory.  Before  I  resume  tlie  narrative  of  the 
journey,  therefore,  I  shall  devote  a  couple  of  chapters  to  these 
subjects. 


OHIO. 


45t 


,     '^' 'J       '       CHAPTER  XC  '  '        - 

Connecticut  Reserve, — Lake  Erie, — General  Information,       .\ , 

The  Connecticut  Western  Reservation  is  bounded  by 
Lake  Erie  on  the  north ;  by  Stcubenviile  and  Canton  Districts  on 
the  south :  by  Pennsylvania  on  the  east ;  and  by  a  line  drawn 
through  the  middle  of  Sandusky  bay  on  the  west.  It  is  in  length 
about  122  miles,  Its^average  breadth  about  45  ;  and  its  area  is  about 
5349  square  miles,  or  3,423,360  acres. 

The  face  of  the  country  is  generally  level,  in  some  places  nearly 
flat,  and  in  others  swelling  out  into  gentle  hills,  of  which  the  great- 
nt  is  the  ridj^e  that  divides  the  waters  of  the  lakes  from  those  of 
the  Mississippi.  To  the  south  of  these  is  a  gentle  descent  towards 
the  Ohio,  and  in  the  tract  to  the  north,  which  is  by  far  the  great- 
est, there  is  a  similar  descent  towards  Lake  Erie.  The  soil  is 
generally  loam  intermixed  with  clay,  and  sometimes  with  gravel. 
Very  little  of  it  can  be  called  the  best,  but  it  is  nearly  all  fit  for 
cultivation,  and  it  answers  well  for  grazing ;  it  also  raises  grain, 
rotables,  and  fruit,  in  abundance.  In  the  state  books  it  stands, 
six  per  cent  second  rate,  and  94  per  cent,  third  rate  land.  There 
are  considerable  bed^  of  freestone  throughout  the  district,  and 
coal  and  iron  are  also  found, 'but  in  no  great  abundance;  though 
several  nron-works  are  in  operation,  and  it  is  presumed  that  a  plen- 
I  tiiiil  supply  of  both  could  be  found  if  properly  sought  for. 

It  is  most  beautifully  watered  on  the  north  by  the  lake,  and 
I  there  are  a  number  of  very  useful  rivers,  of  which  those  that  emp- 
ty into  tlie  lake  will  be  noticed  hereafler.  The  principal  stream 
that  runs  to  the  south  is  Beaver  creek,  a  very  important  one, 
which  drives  a  great  quantity  of  machinery.  The  whole  district 
I  is  well  supplied  with  springs  of  good  water,  and  there  are  several 

I  springs,  sulphur  springs,  and  one  of  a  bituminous  substance, 
I  that  burns  like  oil. 

The  principal  timber  is  oak,  chesnut,  beech,  maple,  walnut, 
I  hickory,  sycamore,  and  in  some  places  pine;  but  the  last  is  not 
common  here,  and  is  hardly  to  be  found  any  where  else  in  the 
itate.  The  climate  is  temperate,  and  the  seasons  are  nearly  assimi- 
lated to  others  already  noticed  in  the  state ;  but  there  is  a  circura- 
I  stance  which  appears  to  me  to  render  the  country  here  not  so  heal- 

58  ^  '^       '"'■         - 


:'r 


Lrj 


458 


THAVELS    IN 


tliy  ns  tliat  t'atiiicr  60utli.  The  prevailing  winds  are  from  the  south 
pnrlicularly  in  sununer  and  fail,  and  tlicso,  an  tliey  bluw  over  thr 
liigh  lands  of  Tennessee,  Kentucky,  and  Virginia,  ore  clear  and 
clastic  in  all  the  southern  part  of  the  state,  which  iv  hilly  and  utulu- 
lqtin<r.  Towards  the  head  waters  of  the  rivers,  however,  the 
country  becomes  flat  and  marshy,  in  some  few  places,  iiult'd, 
swampy,  and  the  south  winds  reach  this  district  loaded  with  the 
effluvia  ariMiig  from  these  marshes  and  swamps.  The  effect  pro- 
duced is  greatest  about  the  Cayahoga  river,  opposite  to  which  the 
lands  at  the  head  waters  are  most  flat ;  towards  the  west  they  get 
more  elevated,  and  the  elevation  is  greater  still  to  the  eastward ; 
and  this  may  in  part  account  for  the  fever  being  more  common  in 
3*ortage  county  and  Cayahoga  county,  than  any  where  else  in  the 
district.  But  a  consolatory  remark  may  be  made  to  the  inhabi- 
tants of  these  districts  :  the  occasional  sickness  will  be  but  tonipo- 
lary,  and  never  very  fatal.  There  are  no  marshes  or  swamps  but 
what  may  and  will  be  drained,  when  the  country  is  hcttled  up; 
and  the  whole  will  then  be  a  very  fine  climate,  and  a  most  agreea- 
ble place  of  residence. 

Thediiini  of  Coiniccticut  to  this  territory  was  founded  upon  the 
charter  of  the  stale,  granted  by  king  Charles  II.  of  England,  in 
1662;  which  defined  their  boundaries  to  be  the  line  of  Massachu- 
sets  on  the  north,  Narragan set-bay   on  the  east,  and  thence  1'.'0 
miles  broad  to  the  South  Sea.     This  was  interpreted  to  be  the  Pa- 
cific Ocean,   and  of  course  included  a  part  of  the  state  of  New  I 
York,  a  considerable  portion  of  Pennsylvania,  and  thence  alon|! 
the  now  state  of  Ohio  and  the  territories  to  the  westward.    The 
state  of  New  York  resisted  the  claim,  and  succeeded.     In  Pennsyl- 
vania a  number  of  settlements  were  made  und;'r  Connecticut  titles, 
which  occasioned  a  dispute,  that  was  referred  to  congress,  and  by 
them  to   commissioners,    who  reported  against  the  Connecticut 
claim.     To  the  westward  Connecticut  yielded  her  claim  to  thcl 
tlnited   States,    with  the  exception  of  the  territory  in  question,! 
which   being  accepted  by  congress,  the  matter  was  settled.     Inl 
■\^1793  the  k'gislature  granted  500,000  acres  of  the  western  partofj 
'it  to  iiidenniiry  t!ie  sufForers  by  firo  during  the  war,  and  thistractf 
^    is  called  the  Firo  lauds.     In  1793  they  sold  the  remainder  to  OIi- 
\      ycr  Phelps  and  others,  for  1,200,000  dollars;  which  is  appropriat- 
ed to  the  support  of  schools  within  the  state.     The  purchasers  otl 
the  lauds  made  a  division  of  the  property,  and  thesetllcujentsconi-l 


>,    OHIO.  459 

menced  a  short  time  after,  ami  have  been  going  on  pretty  rapidly 
iincc  the  year  1799,  by  emigration  from  the  New  England  states, 
principally  from  the  state  of  Connecticut.  'Hie  district  is  now  divid- 
ed into  six  counties,  and  contains  lG,0+2  inhabitants.     The  pwiplc 
have  generally  the  frugal,  imlustrious  habits  of  the  New  Kngland 
ttates,  and  are  civil  in  their  manners,  and  moral  in  their  diport- 
mcnt.  Education  is  generally  attended  to,  and  they  seem  also  to  b« 
religious,  although  the  thin  state  of  ; ocioty  does  not  admit  of  many 
diurches  or  clergy.     As  to  civil  jiu'isprudenee,  the  state  ol  Connec- 
ticut scctns  to  have  given  a  tone  to  it  in  this  district,  which  hti!) 
probably  had  considerable  influence  throughout  the  state,     'llic 
people  of  Connecticut  have  been  accused  of  encouraging  a  litigious 
(lis|K)<ition,  and  of  being  fond  of  having  all  their  disputes,  even  the 
most  trivial,  settled  according  to  law.  I  lere,  on  the  contrary,  they 
Mem  inclined  to  avoid  all  law,  and  all  litigation ;  and  have  in)bibed 
perhaps  an  unreasonable  aversion  to  lawyers ;    which  I  have  seen 
manifested  in  some  of  the  newspapers   by  opprobrious   epithets, 
such  as  "  lawyers  a  begging,"  and  the  like.     The  law  is  a  pro- 
fession open  to  all,  and  many  bad  mentbers  of  society  no  doubt 
get  into  it ; — when  they  do,  they  have  a  superior  opportunity  of 
committing  mischief.  But  all  lawyers  are  not  to  be  reckoned  of  this 
class,  and  the  profession  should  not  be  stigmati/ed  for  the  improper 
conduct  of  some  of  its  members.     I'lie  study  of  the  laws  of  the 
land  is  one  of  the  most  useful  and  ornamenttd  proftssions  in  society, 
and  such  lawyers  as  conscientiously  jyractise  it  arc  an   ht   rur  to 
their  country,  and  to  human  nature. 

There  are  as  yet  but  few  villa'^es  in  this  district.  Warren  is  the 
chief,  and  it  is  but  a  small  place.  The  houses  are  mostly  of  wuod, 
a  great  part  of  them  indeed  being  log  houses;  but  they  will  no 
doubt  improve  with  the  settlement  of  the  country. 

The  agriculturalists  are  mostly  occupied  in  raiding  supplies  for 
the  internal  consumption  of  the  inhabitants,  who  manufacture  near- 
ly all  their  own  clothing,  in  their  respective  families,  so  that  there 
is  little  commerce :  the  chief  trade  is  in  salt,  and  a  few  ornamen- 
tal imported  goods.  The  principal  exports  are  cattle  and  cheese. 
Hence  farmers  and  mechanics  are  best  adapted  to  the  country,  and 
thepriceof  land  is  sufficiently  low  to  invite  them  into  it ;  being  a- 
bout  from  two  to  four  dollars  per  acre. 

Lake  Erie  is  nearly  300  miles  long;  op|)osite  Cleveland  it  is 
about  60  miles  broad ;  to  the  eastward  it  is  above  70 ; — the  average 


itIV 


111 


i 
t'i  < 


I  r 


■  h  ■■  '\ 


iti  ii 


460  TRAVELS   IN 

breadth  is  from  50  to  60  miles.  Its  average  depth  is  from  40  to 
1 20  feet.  The  water  is  pure  and  wholesome,  and  abounds  with 
fish,  such  as  sturgeon,  white-fish,  trout,  perch,  &c.  The  lake 
does  not  freeze  in  the  middle,  but  is  frequently  frozen  on  both  sides; 
and  sometimes  in  winter,  when  the  winds  are  variable,  the  ice  ex- 
hibits a  singular  phenomenon.  A  south  wind  blows  all  to  the  Can- 
ada shore,  and  a  north  wind  again  dislodges  it  and  brinies  it  all 
back  to  the  American  side.  There  are  a  number  of  islands  in  the 
west  end  of  the  lake,  containing  from  800  to  2000  acres  of  land,  and 
the  soil  is  said  to  be  generally  good.  These  islands  are  settling  up, 
some  of  them  very  rapidly,  and  are  found  to  be  very  healthy  and 
agreeable  places  of  residence.  They  are  handsome  and  well  wood- 
ed, and  some  of  them  afford  a  good  retreat  for  the  vessels  on  the 
lakes  in  stormy  weather. 

This  and  the  other  lakes  are  navigated  by  vessels  of  from  70  to 
80  tons,  which  carry  goods  and  provisions  up  the  lakes  as  far  as  the 
head  of  Lake  Superior,  and  bring  back  furs  and  peltry.  Tlie  na- 
vigation is  good  to  the  head  of  Lake  Superior,  except  in  Lake  St 
Clair,  where  the  water  is  shallow,  and  vessels  are  sometimes  oblig- 
ed to  lighten.  '       '     •    .  ' 

The  principal  ports  on  the  American  side  are  Michilimackinac, 
Detroit,  Miami,  Sandusky,  Cayahoga,  Grand  River,  Presque  Isle, 
and  Buffalo.  On  the  British  side.  Maiden,  consiting  of  100  houses, 
Moyes,  Sandwich,  and  St.  Joseph's. 

The  Americans  have  1  brig,  8  schooners,  and  4  sloops ;  and  the  I 
British  1  brig,  5  schooners,  and  2  vessels  of  war.     Oneoftbeni, 
the  Queen  Charlotte,  was  built  last  summer,  in  expectation  of  a 
war,  and  carries  18  guns. 

These  lakes  admit  of  the  most  extensive  inland  navigation  in  the! 
v;orld.  The  stages  of  it  upwards,  from  hence,  may  be  thus  noticed:  j 
to  Sandusky  bay  57  miles;   thence  to  Miami  bay  45;    to  Maiden 
45;  to  Detroit  18  ;  to  Lake  St.  Clair  11 ;  through  Lake  St.  Clair  | 
40 ;  through  Huron  river  40 ;  through  Lake  Huron  to  Michilimac- 
kinac straits  190 ;  thence  to  Lake  Superior  100 ;  and  through  Laktj 
Superior  upwards  of  300  miles ;  being  in  that  direction  about  8S6| 
miles.    Then  lake  Michigan  is  navigable,  from  the  straits  down-j 
wards,  300  miles,  and  from  thence  there  are  two  portages,  alrei 
noticed,  to  the  Mississippi  river ;  after  passing  which  there  is  a  con-l 
plete  navigation  to  New  Orleans.   From  this  lake  there  are  4  portr 
ages  to  the  Ohio  river,  of  which  one  has  been  noticed ;  the  othenj 


arc  through  t 
dusky  river  ai 
creek,  a  bran< 
the  following 
Isle  70;  to  Bi 
land  portage  : 
then  the  navi^ 
that  luke  to  Ki 
thence  to  the  ( 
which  there  is 
of  Niagara ;    a 
without  a  regn 
admit  of  sloop 
are  also  several 
Hudson,   throi 
and  the  Moha 
Hudson,  throuj 
The  followin 
rivers  to  the  we 
innavigable  abo 
£illsinto  Lake 
From  thence  to 
shore  is  pretty  g 
river  is  navigab 
unhealthy.     Th 
river  is  navigab 
verthe  road  lea 
13  miles,  3  miles 
vay;  its  banks  » 
wy  unhealthy, 
miles,  the  road 
good,  and  there ; 
M  the  best  harboi 
dusky  river  is  na 
are  settling  up  ve 
dubky  river  to  M 
nearly  two-thirds 
prairies,  with  ver 
country  is  uncom 
^t  the  situation 


OHIO.  461 

arc  through  the  Miami  of  the  lakes  and  Wabash;  through  San> 
dusky  river  and  the  Great  Miami ;  and  from  Presciue  Isle  to  Frciich 
creek,  a  brunch  of  tlie  Allegany.  The  navigation  downward  is  by 
the  following  stages :  tu  Grand  river  SO  miles ;  thcncu  to  Prcs(]uc 
Itle70;  to  Buffalo  1 00 ;  to  Fort  Schlosscr '20 ;  from  tlicncc  the 
land  portage  round  the  fulls  of  Niagara  is  10  miles  to  Lewistown: 
then  the  navigation  is  continued  to  Lake  Ontario  7  miles;  through 
that  lake  to  Kingston  1 70 ;  to  Montreal  1 70 ;  to  Quebec  1 70 ;  and 
thence  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  320  miles;  in  all  lOHH  miles,  in. 
which  there  is  no  interruption  of  any  consequence,  except  the  falls 
of  Niagara;  and  it  is  impossible  to  view  the  subject  from  hence 
without  a  regret  that  thib  is  not  removed  by  such  a  canal  as  would 
admit  of  sloop  navigation.  From  the  waters  to  the  eastward  there 
are  also  several  portages ;  particularly  from  Lake  Ontario  to  the 
Hudson,  through  the  medium  of  the  Oneida  lake.  Wood  creek, 
and  the  Mohawk  river ;  and  from  the  St.  Lawrence  river  to  the 
Hudson,  through  the  medium  of  Lake  Chumplain. 

The  following  information  regarding  the  banks  of  the  lakes  and 
rivers  to  the  westward  I  collected  chiefly  at  this  place.  Rocky  river 
is  navigable  about  25  miles,  and  is  one  of  the  prettiest  streams  that 
falls  into  Lake  Erie.  The  banks  arc  pretty  fertile  and  healthy. 
From  thence  to  Black  river  is  18  miles,  and  the  land  on  the  lake 
shore  is  pretty  good ;  but  the  road  is  muddy  part  of  the  way.  Black 
river  is  navigable  a  little  way,  and  its  banks  are  pretty  lertile,  but 
unhealthy.  Thence  to  Vermilion  river  the  road  is  good,  and  this 
river  is  navigable;  but  its  banks  are  unhealthy.  At  Vermilion  ri- 
ver the  road  leaves  the  lake  shore,  and  crosses  Huron  river,  distant 
13  miles,  3  miles  from  its  outlet.  Huron  river  is  navigable  a  little 
vay;  its  banks  are  fertile,  and  are  settling  up;  but  the  country  is 
very  unhealthy.  From  Huron  river  to  Sandusky  river,  about  25 
miles,  the  road  is  low  and  muddy  in  many  places ;  but  the  soil  is 
good,  and  there  are  many  fine  meadows  or  prairies.  Sandusky  bay 
is  the  best  harbour  on  the  lake ;  but  the  entrance  is  difficult.  San- 
dusky river  is  navigable,  and  both  its  banks  and  those  of  the  bay 
are  settling  up  very  fast ;  but  the  country  is  unhealthy.  From  San- 
dusky river  to  Miami  river  is  about  30  miles,  and  the  road  swampy 
nearly  two-thirds  of  the  way.  On  the  Miami  river  there  are  fine 
prairies,  with  very  high  grass,  extending  a  mile  on  each  side.  The 
country  is  uncommonly  fertile,  and  the  water  is  pure  ond  beautiful ; 
but  the  situation  is  rather  unhealthy.     It  is,  however,  settling  up 


'i 


f 


462 


TRAVELS     IX 


very  fast  with  squatters.  The  Iiidiun  cUim  is  not  yet  cxtiiif;uislir<l, 
and  no  titles  to  land  cuii  be  procuretl.  When  the  territory  it  pur- 
cliased,  it  is  presumed  that  thin  yi'iW  become  one  of  the  must  cxtcir 
vivo  settlements  in  the  United  Sttites. 

About  10  niilis  from  Miami  river  the  road  passes  the  state  line, 
and  is  pretty  good  to  Detroit ;  but  it  crosses  a  number  ot  riven  witli- 
uut  bridges,  and  travelling  is  somewhat  diificult. 


CHAPTER  XCI. 

Michigan  Territory 

J. S  bounded  by  the  state  of  Ohio  and  Indiana  territory  on  the 
south;  by  lake  Michigan  on  the  west;  by  the  straits  uf  Michili' 
niackinac  on  the  north;  and  by  lakes  Huron  and  St.  Cluir,  and 
the  water  communication  thence  to  lake  Erie,  on  the  east.  It  ex- 
tends between  41 "  50'  and  iS"  28'  north  latitude,  and  5*"  VI'  and 
8°  16'  west  longitude;  being  256  miles  long,  by  154<  broad;  and 
containing  an  area  of  about  34>,820  square  miles,  or  22,284,000  acres. 

In  the  centre  of  this  territory  there  is  a  high  table  land,  from 
whence  there  is  a  descent  in  all  directions.  The  soil  is  pretty  fer- 
tile throughout  the  territory ;  but  it  is  only  cultivated  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  lakes  and  rivers.  There  aic  no  rivers  of  great  im- 
portance in  the  territory.  Grand  river  is  the  largest,  and  extends 
from  Lake  Michigan,  nearly  across  the  territory  to  lukc  Eric. 
There  arc  numerous  small  streams.  The  country  is  said  to  Ix;  heal- 
thy, and  the  climate  more  mild  than  its  northern  situation  would 
seem  to  indicate.  The  winters  are  warmer  at  Detroit  than  at 
Philadelphia. 

This  district  appears  to  have  been  first  settled  by  the  French 
from  Canada,  and  the  bulk  of  the  inhabitants  are  of  French  extrac- 
tion. Detroit  is  the  principal  town,  and  is  a  large  thriving  settle- 
ment, consisting  of  from  300  to  400  houses.  There  are  also  hand- 
some settlements  of  French  people  along  the  west  end  of  lake  Erie, 
particularly  on  Raisin  river;  but  the  territory  is  not  increasing  in 
population  very  fast.  By  the  census  of  1800,  it  contained  3206  in- 
habitants ;  by  last  census,  4762.  .  ,;    .,  ^.^^  .^ , 

A  considerable  purchase  of  land  has  lately  been  made  from  the 
Indians,  and  four  millions  of  acres  in  this  district  ore  at  tlie  dispo- 
sal of  the  goverment  of  the  United  States. 


Leave  Cleveland 


OHIO. 


463 


Tlio  Kettlcmeiit  of  this  territory  will  not,  of  course,  advance  rn- 
pdlvtil'  tliosf  nt'nr  the  ohi  stiitCH  be  filled  up;  hut  such  ure  its  iiu- 
lunil  lulvMitageH  ft>*  de,  nnil  the  sahibrity  of  its  climate,  that  it 
inuitii'iruct  notice,  um!  idtimntely  hnvenstution  ufcunsidcrublu im- 
port iiicc  in  the  u..i' 

Thin  district,  in  •  ummoii  with  the  other  ten  itoricH,  is  under  the 
([Mxrial  controul  ofcon'rreM,  who  /runrnntee  to  the  inhtibitants  a  re- 
publican form  offfiv-  rii.nt  lit;  the  snfcty  of  their  })crsonii  and  pro- 
|ierty;  the  free  exercise  of  religion;  the  trial  by  iurj-;  the  liberty 
nfjpwch  and  of  the  press  and  the  support  of  education.  Slavery 
ii  prohibited,  and  good  faith  is  enjoined  with  the  Indian  tribes. 

Congress  appoint  a  governor,  a  secretory,  and  three  judges  for 
the  innnngenient  of  the  public  affiiirs,  until  the  free  mule  inhabitants 
of  full  age  amount  to  5000,  when  they  will  be  governed  by  a  coun- 
cil of  their  own  choice;  and  when  the  inhabitants  amount  to 
60,000  they  will  be  udniilted  into  the  union  as  a  state. 


i   , 

J    1. 


r 


.        •  CHAPTEll  XCII. 

Leave  Cleveland^ — Grand  river^ — Ashtabida   river^ — Conneought 

river. 

A  Mr.  Bond,  from  Massachusetts,  whom  I  met  with  at  Cleve- 
land, agreed  to  be  my  travelling  companion  to  Grand  river.  He 
hod  to  ride  a  little  way  off  the  road,  but  proposed  to  join  me 
seven  miles  to  the  eastward  at  breakfast.  I  set  out  ut  seven  o'clock 
on  the  morning  of  the  21st  of  October,  and  travelled  to  the  east- 
ward within  a  few  miles  of  the  lake.  I  stopped  to  breakfast  at 
the  house  of  a  judge  Don,  seven  miles  from  Cleveland.  The  road 
was  pretty  good  all  the  way,  and  passed  many  creeks  by  bridges, 
some  of  them  in  a  very  shattered  state.  The  soil  was  dry  and 
rather  sandy,  but  some  of  it  appeared  pretty  good,  though  all 
third  rate.  I  saw  a  settler  by  the  way,  who  told  me  he  was  from 
Connecticut,  that  he  had  bought  1000  acres  of  land  here,  at 
two  dollars  per  acre,  which  he  meant  to  give  to  his  sons  and  to 
go  himself  14  miles  below  the  falls  of  Ohio,  where  he  owns  500 
acres  of  land,  which  he  bought  at  three  dollars  per  acre.  I  le 
likes  this  country  very  well,  and   finds  it  healthy.     Judge  Don's 


if 

I ) , 


■§ 


J". 


r 


464 


TRAVELS   IH 


family  were  busy  manufacturing  homejipun,  and  isppeared  to  be 
quite  healthy. 

My  travelling  companion  did  not  come  forward,  and  I  jogged 
on  alone.  I  travelled  about  seven  miles  through  a  pretty  good 
soil  and  well  watered,  but  the  road  deplorably  bad,  and  I  wag 
labouring  through  the  mud,  my  horse  almost  up  to  the  knees, 
when  I  was  joined  by  Mr.  Bond ;  soon  after  which  the  road  im- 
proved a  little,  and  so  continued  for  six  miles  to  Chagrin  river,  where 
we  btopped  to  feed  our  horses.  Here  we  found  a  fine  farm,  and  an 
orchard  well  stocked  with  fruit-trees.  In  the  house  the  females 
were  busy  carding  and  spinning  wool.  The  Yankees  are  said  to 
be  "  full  of  notions,"  some  of  them  good,  some,  perhaps,  other- 
wise ;  here  they  had  a  device  for  accelerating  the  motion  of  the 
spindle,  which  I  found  a  very  good  notion,  as  it  saved  the  young 
female  who  was  spinning  about  50  per  cent,  of  the  labour  of  the 
right  hand. 

Chagrin  river  rises  about  30  miles  south  from  the  lake,  and  is 
a  rapid  stream,  abounding  in  mill  seats,  which  are  well  improved 
by  the  erection  of  a  great  number  of  mills.  It  is  sometimes  very 
large.  In  a  late  flood  it  had  carried  away  the  bridge,  and  we 
had  to  cross  it  by  a  canoe,  our  horses  swimming  after  us. 

From  here  to  Grand  river  is  10  miles,  and  the  road  keeps  with- 
in two  or  three  miles  of  the  lake,  all  the  way.  The  soil  is  about 
the  best  of  third  rate,  and  the  country  pretty  thickly  settled.  To- 
wards the  river  we  travelled  through  a  sandy  plain,  which  the 
proprietors  intended  for  a  town  or  city ;  but  Nature  said  "  no," 
and  all  the  settlements  are  confined  to  the  banks  of  the  river, 
where  there  is  a  tavern,  a  store,  an  excellent  saw  and  grist  mill, 
a  fulling  mill,  and  a  wool-carding  machine. 

As  we  stopped  here  all  night,  I  wnt  into  the  store  to  make 
!«ome  inquiries,  and  found  the  merchant  a  young  Scotsman,  late- 
ly from  Utica.  He  !iad  a  pretty  full  store  of  goods,  but  he  told 
me,  except  a  few  pounds  of  tea  and  sugar,  he  could  sell  very  lit- 
tle, as  the  people  made  nearly  all  their  own  clothing. 

Grand  river  is  a  fine  bold  stream  which  rises  in  the  interior  of 
the  district,  not  far  from  Warren,  and  runs  by  a  circuitous  rapid 
course  to  the  lake.  It  drives  a  great  deal  of  machinery,  and  has 
a  sort  of  harbour  at  its  outlet,  but  is  not  navigable.  Its  banks  are 
healthy,  and  in  some  places  fertile. 

I  met  here  with  a  Mr,   Baird,  who  was  travelling  to  Buffalo 


Olio. 


465 


IS  with- 
about 
.  To- 
,ch  the 
"no," 
river, 
it  mill, 

make 
1,  late- 
le  told 
tcry  lit* 

^nor  of 

IS  rapid 

indhas 

Inks  are 

Buffalo 


^th  A  drove  of  caUl^*  Some  of  them  had  strayed,  and  he  came 
back  in  quest  of  them,  leaving  the  drove  to  go  on  with  his  neighbour. 
I  availed  myself  of  his  company  with  pleasure,  particularly  as  he 
told  me  he  would  travel  along  the  lake  shore,  which  I  had  riot 
leen  since  I  left  Cleveland. 

October  26.  The  morning  was  clear  and  cold,  with  a  pretty 
hard  frost.  We  set  out  at  8  o'clock,  and  travelled  along  the  west 
side  of  Grand  river  to  tha  lake  shore,  where  we  crossed  by  a  good 
vooden  bridge.  On  reaching  the  sands  we  had  an  elegant  view 
of  the  banks  of  the  lake,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  They  are 
generally  steep,  in  some  places  rocky,  and  rise  from  30  to  70  feet 
above  the  water.  The  sand  is  firm  and  smooth,  and  constitutea 
a  fine  road,  when  passable;  but  when  a  northerly  wind  blows 
strong,  the  surf  runs  often  to  the  very  foot  of  the  high  banks.  This 
day  the  water  was  smooth,  and  the  weather  clear  and  beautiful, 
which  rendered  our  ride  truly  delightful. 

A  little  beyond  Grand  river  we  came  to  a  clearing,  and  look- 
ing  intc  it,  saw  a  handsome  house  about  500  yards  distant,  which 
my  fellow-traveller  told  me  was  the  seat  of  governor  Hunting- 
don. From  thence  we  travelled  14<  miles  without  seeing  a  single 
house,  when  we  came  to  a  little  clearing,  and  at  a  miserable  look- 
ing plantation  we  stopped  to  feed  our  horses.  Here  we  were 
tokl,  that  during  the  late  storm  a  boy  had  been  lost  in  the  woods. 
He  was  about  9  years  of  age,  and  had  gone  out  to  gather  nuts ; 
and  wandering  a  considerable  way  from  home,  he  was  overtaken 
by  the  storm,  during  which  he  made  many  ineffectual  attempts 
to  return ;  when,  overpowered  by  fatigue,  and  benumbed  with  cold, 
be  took  shelter  in  a  hollow  tree,  where  he  was  found  two  days 
after,  almost  starved  to  death,  and  one  of  his  thighs  most  dread- 
fully lacerated  by  the  quills  of  a  porcupine.  He  was  alive  when 
we  were  there,  and  hopes  were  entertained  of  his  recovery. 

We  resumed  our  journey  along  the  banks  of  this  beautiful  lake, 
and  passing  many  small  runs,  we  arrived,  towards  night,  at  Ash- 
tabula river,  the  mouth  of  which  was  very  deep,  and  a  stranger 
could  not  have  passed  it  in  safety ;  but  my  fellow-traveller,  being 
well  acquainted  with  it,  took  a  circuitous  course  by  the  bar,  which 
led  us  100  or  150  yards  into  the  lake,  and  we  got  over  in  safety, 
though  our  horses  were  at  one  time  very  near  swimming. 

Th«  limber  on  the  banks  of  the    lake  was  mostly  white  oak 


rM. 


i 


'M  'i 

^  ^, ;  ill 


466 


TRAVELS   IN 


'  and  hickory,  and  the  price  of  land,  which  is  mostly  good  third 
rate,  is  about  1  to  9  dollars  per  acre. 

We  rode  up  the  east  bank  of  Ashtabula  river,  about  a  quarter 
of  a  mrle,  and  stopped  for  the  night  at  the  house  of  squire  Leet. 

A  township  court  was  held  at  the  house  of  the  squire,  at  which 
a  good  many  of  the  inhabitants  were  assembled,  which  gave  us 
an  opportunity  of  seeing  a  little  of  the  manners  of  the  people  in 
New  Connecticnt,  and  the  mode  of  dispensing  justice. 

A  young  man  had  been  convicted  of  injuring  his  neighbour's 
property,  and  the  award  of  the  court  had  not  yet  been  complied 
with.  He  wass  now  accused  of  poisoning  a  horse.  While  the  ex- 
amination was  going  on,  be  ran  off,  but  was  overtaken  and  brought 
back.  The  proceedings  were  conducted  in  a  very  ordeily  man- 
ner, and  after  the  examination  of  the  witnesses  there  were  pretty 
eloquent  pleadings,  on  the  one  side  by  a  young  lawyer,  recentfy 
from  Connecticut ;  on  the  other,  by  a  brick-maker.  The  court 
was  then  cleared,  and  the  squire  called  in  the  assistance  of  two 
of  his  neighbours,  to  make  up  the  award.  It  was  found  that  the 
charge  of  poisoning  the  horse  was  not  proven,  but  the  young  man 
was  ordered  to  be  kept  in  custody  until  the  former  award  should 
be  satisfied. 

The  greater  part  of  the  people  remained  at  the  house  of  the 
justice  all  night,  and,  as  several  of  them  had  their  wives  and 
daughters  along  with  them,  we  had  a  numerous  company,  and 
spent  a  very  convivial  evening.  My  fellow-traveller  was  acquaint- 
ed in  the  family,  and  they  were  acquainted  with  his  vocal  pow- 
ers. He  sang  an  excellent  song,  but  like  other  good  singers,  he 
was  unwilling  to  make  a  display,  and  it  was  not  till  after  a  good 
deal  of  pressing  from  the  ladies,  that  he  would  open  the  concert. 
He  soon  made  ample  amends  for  the  delay,  however.  He 
sung  a  number  of  elegant  songs,  and  having  elevated  the  spirits 
of  the  company,  we  had  songs  and  stories  in  abundance,  till  a 
pretty  late  hour.  I  was  called  upon,  of  course ;  but,  as  hereto- 
fore, I  could  do  nothing  except  in  Scottish  songs,  and  I  was 
doubtful  how  they  would  answer  on  the  banks  of  lake  Erie.  How- 
ever, I  soon  found  that  this  was  one  of  the  most  acceptable  treats 
I  could  give  the  company.  They  were,  in  fact,  enthusiastic  ad- 
mirers of  Scotttsh  music ;  Burns'  songs  were  highly  relished,  and 


OHIO.  467 

•neof  the  company  anticipated  mc  by  singing  tny  favourite  song 
ofMuirland  Willie.* 

October  23d.  On  getting  up  this  morning,  we  found  that  the 
prisoner  had  again  eluded  the  vigilance  of  justice,  and  fled.  We 
got  a  very  excellent  breakfast,    and  starting  at    8  o'clock,  we 

*  The  estimation  in  which  Scottish  music  islield,  wherever  it  is  "known,  is  aconTia< 
(ing  proof  of  its  intrinsic  merit.  It  is  full  of  sensibility,  and  finds  its  way  directly 
10  the  chords  of  the  human  heart ;  and  it  has  spread  the  mantle  of  its  sharms  so  ef 
fcctually  over  the  Scottish  language,  that  it  has  extended  far  and  wide,  and  is  now 
in  such  a  state  of  conversation,  that  it  will  probably  endure  to  die  remotest  ages.  In- 
dtcd,  to  a  native  of  Scotland,  the  language  and  tlie  music  are  so  associated  togethei:^ 
that  they  cannot  be  separated.  Bums  the  prince  of  poets,  was  so  sensible  of  thi^ 
that  in  promising  his  assistance  to  Thomson's  elegant  collection,  he  says,  "apropos! 
it  you  are  for  English  verses,  there  is,  on  my  part,  an  end  of  the  matter.  Whether 
in  the  simplicity  of  the  ballad,  or  the  pathos  of  the  song,  I  can  only  hope  to  pleas* 
myself  in  being  allowed  at  least  a  sprinkling  of  our  native  tongue."  This  sprinkling 
yiii  freely  allowed  :  a  most  transcendent  beam  of  light  was  shed  abroad  upon  Scottish 
musir  and  poetry ;  and  we  are  almost  lost  with  wonder,  at  contemplating  the  as- 
tonishing  power,  yet  sweet  simplicity,  of  this  wonderful  poet,  displayed  in  all  the  va* 
rious  forms  of  the  gay,  the  humorous,  the  patriotic,  and  tlie  pathetic.  The  name  of 
Burns  must  endure  for  ever ;  and  along  with  It  will  be  transmitted  to  posterity  such 
songs  as  Bonny  Leslie,  Duncan  Gray,  Scots  wha  hae  wi'  Wallace  bled,  and  High* 
iind  Mary. 

Burns,  indeed,  was  quite  an  enthusiast  on  the  subject  of  songs,  in  "which  he  could 
rtam  in  a  flowery  field,  and  one  quite  suited  to  his  fancy  ;  and  to  this  field  Mr.  Thom- 
son has  done  ample  justice,  by  transplanting  a  number  of  the  finest  flowers  into  hi* 
work,  which  I  consider  as  the  flower-garden  of  Scottish  Songs.  Among  others,  he 
has  adopted  the  very  old,  humorous  historical  song  of  Muirland  Willie ;  andthecir- 
funstance  of  meeting  with  it  on  the  banks  of  lake  Eric,  was  to  mc  so  novel  and  un- 
expected, that  I  am  induced  to  insert  it  at  this  place.  It  is  one  of  the  oldest  Scot- 
tish songs  extant,  and  presents  a  very  f^ood  picture  of  the  primitive  manners  of  th«f 
country. 

MUIRLANP  WILLIE. 


0  HEARKEN,  and  I  will  tell  ye  how 
Voung  muirland  Willie  came  to  woo. 
The'  he  could  neither  say  nor  do ; 
The  truth  I  tell  to  ye. 
But  ay  he  cried,  Whate'er  betide, 
Maggy  I'll  hae  her  to  be  my  bride, 
^Vith  a  fa]  d«  ral  al,  fal  al  de  xal,  fal  al  de 
ral  al  de  ral  i. 

I  On  his  gray  yad  as  he  did  ride, 
Wi'  iirii  and  pistol  by  his  side, 
H»  pricked  on  wi'  meikk  pride, 


Wi'  meikle  mirth  and  glee, 
Out  o'er  yon  muss  out  o'er  yon  moor, 
Till  he  came  to  her  daddy's  door. 

With  a  fal  de  ral,  &c." 

"  Guidraan,"  quo  lie,  "  Iw  yo  within? 
I'm  come  ye'r  dochter's  love  to  win : 
I  care  na  for  makin  meikle  din. 

What  answer  gie  ye  me  ?" 
*'  Now,  wooer,"  quo  he,  "  wad  ye  liglit  down, 
I'll  gie  ye  my  dochter's  love  to  wiii, 

With  a  fal  dt  ral,   &c. 


l\ 


i     S" 


^\ 


■i ' 


in 


468  tbaV^U  in 

punucd  our  journey  Along  the  banks  of  the  luke ;  but  it  was  not  m 
pleasant  as  yesterday.  There  was  a  considerable  swelf  from  the  north< 
west,  and  tlie  noise  of  the  waves  was  disagreeable,  while  in  some 
places  we  had  to  ride  a  considerable  way  through  the  water.  A  num- 
ber of  fishes  had  been  blown  ashore  during  the  late  gale,  and  we  saw 
the  tracks  of  a  great  number  of  bears,  foxes,  deer,  and  squirrels,  a- 
long  the  sands.  The  land  along  the  banks  was  nearly  tne  same  as 
that  we  passed  yesterday :  but,  in  addition  to  the  timber,  we  saw  a 


"Now,  wwier,  sin*  ye're lighted  down, 
Whar  d'ye  win,  or  in  what  town  ? 
I  tliink  ray  dochter  winna  gloom 

On  sic  a  lad  as  ye." 
The  wooer  lie  stepped  up  the  house, 
And  wow  bat  he  was  wondrous  crouae, 

With  a  fal  de  ral,  &c. 

*'  I  hae  three  owsan  in  a  pleugh, 

Twa  gnde  gaen  yads,  an'  gear  enough. 

My  place  they  ca'  it  Cauld-enough, 

I  scorn  to  tell  a  lie ; 
Besides  I  bad  frae  the  great  laird, 
A  peat  pat,  and  a  lang  kail  yard. 

With  a  fal  de  ral,  &c" 

The  maid  put  on  her  kirtle  brown. 
She  was  the  brawest  in  a'  the  town, 
t  wat  on  him  she  did  na'  gloom, 

But  blinket  bonnily. 
The  lover  he  stepped  up  in  haste. 
And  grippether  hard  about  the  waist. 

With  a  fal  de  ral,  &c. 


"  Your  docht^  wad  na  say  me  na, 
But  to  oursels  she's  left  it  a'. 
As  we  can  gree  between  us  twa: 
Say,  wbat'U  gie  me  wi'  her  ?" 
"  Now,  wooer,"  quo'  he,  "  I  hae  namokk^ 
But  sic's  I  hae  ye'se  get  a  pickle^ 
With  a  falderal,&c. 

"  A  kiln  fu'  o'  com  I'll  gie  to  thee. 
Three  soums  o'  sheep,  twa  gude  milk  k;c, 
Ye'se  get  the  wedding  dinner  free, 

Troth  I  dow  do  nae  mair." 
**  Content,  quo'  Willie,  "  a  bargain  be't, 
I'm  far  frae  hame,  raak  haste,  let's  do't," 

With  a  falderal,  &c 

Tlie  brithal  day  it  came  to  pass 
Wi'  mony  a  blythesome  lad  and  lass. 
But  siccan  a  day  there  never  was, 

Sic  mirth  was  never  seen. 
The  winsome  couple  straked  hands, 
Mess  John  tied  up  the  marriage  iMpda, 

With  a  fal  de  ral,  &c. 


••  To  win  ye'r  love,  maid,  I'm  comt  here.  And  ow  bride's  maiden?  war  na  Cew, 

I'm  young,  and  hae  enough  o*  gear,  Wi'  tap-knots,  lug-knots,  a'  in  blue^ 

An'  for  mysel  ye  need  na  fear,  Frae  tap  to  tae  they  were  bran  new. 
Troth,  try  me  whan  ye  like."  And  blinket  bonnily. 

He  teuk  aff  his  bannet,  and  spat  in  iiis  chow, Their  toys  and  mutches  war  sae  clean. 

And  dighted  his  gob,  and  pried  her  mou,  Tlicy  glanced  into  our  ladies  cen^ 
With  a  fal  de  ral,  &c.  With  a  falde  ral,  &c. 


The  maiden  blushed,  an'  bing'd  fu'  law, 
She  had  na'  will  t*  say  him  na, 
But  to  her  daddy  she  left  it  a', 

As  they  twa, could  agree. 
The  lover  he  gae  her  the  titlier  kiss, 
Syne  ran  to  her  daddy,  an*  tald  him  this, 

With  a  fal  de  ral,  &c. 


Sic  hirdum,  dlrdum,  an'  sic  din, 
Wi'  he  o'er  her  and  she  o'er  him, 
The  minstrels  they  did  never  blin, 

Wi'  meikle  mirth  and  glee. 
An'  ay  they  bobbit,  an'  aythcybcck'^ 
An'  ay  they  cleek't,  an*  crosii't,  an' 4^ 

With  a  falde  ral,  &c. 


OHIO.  469 

Boocl  deal  of  hemlock.  The  banks  of  the  luke  were  entirely  desti- 
tute of  settlements,  at  which  I  was  miich  surprised ;  but  I  learned 
that  the  proprietors  had  kept  it  up  on  speculation,  expecting  a  very 
high  price  for  it  ofter  the  other  parts  of  the  country  are  settled.  If 
this  be  the  case,  I  fear  they  have  miscalculated.  The  want  of  set- 
ttpmentx  along  the  lake  shore,  which  is  the  most  promijnent  part  of 
the  district,  is  calculated  to  impress  settlers  with  an  unfavourable 
idea  of  the  country;  and  where  the  settlements  are  few,  the  road  is 
bad,  another  disagreeable  circumstance  to  settlers,  and  which  has 
considerably  retarded  the  settlement  of  the  interior  of  the  district. 

Indeed,  I  think  it  is  a  pity  that  the  Connecticut  reserve  was  made 
the  subject  o?  i^^lividual  speculation  at  all.     The  state  of  Connccti* 
cutcould  have  held  it  without  embarrassment,  and  sold  it  out  to  set- 
tlers as  there  was  a  demand  for  it,  thereby  affording  a  superior  ac- 
commodation to  the  public,  and  probably  increasing  the  state  funds 
by  availing  themselves  of  the  rise  that  would  have  taken  place  in  the 
course  of  settlement.  The  state,  too,  having  much  greater  power  than 
individuals,  and  having  but  one  interest,  could  have  adopted  the  most 
efficacious  measures  to  render  the  country  heqlthy,  by  improving 
tile  outlets  of  rivers,  draining  swamps,  &c. ;    and  they  might  have 
had  the  whole  country,  particularly  the  shores  of  the  lake,  in  a  very 
elegant  state  by  this  time.      I  cannot  leave  this  subject  without  in- 
dulging in  a  speculation  as  to  what  the  banks  of  this  elegant  lake 
might  have  been,  and  probably  would  have  been,  under  judicious 
management.     The  Connecticut  reserve  stretches  along  the  lake 
about  160  miles.     It  is  all  arable,  and  a  good  dry  road  could  have 
been  run  along  the  shore  the  whole  way.    If  the  banks  had  been 
laid  out  in  farms  having  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  front,  and  one  mile 
deep,  they  would  have  amounted  to  600;  and,  allowing  10  persons 
to  each,  the  lake  shore  alone  would  have  contained  6000  inhabit- 
ants, being  nearly  equal  to  all  the  inhabitants  in  the  district,  with 
the  exception  of  Trumbull  county,  no  part  of  which  is  on  the  lake. 

About  15  miles  from  Ashtabula  river,  we  crossed  Conneogbt  tU 
vcr,  by  a  wooden  bridge,  close  to  the  lake  shore,  where  we  observ- 
ed several  settlements;  and  a  mile  and  a  half  from  thenjoe  we  en- 
tered into  the  state  of  P(Hinsylvania.  *  ' 

Conneoght  river  is  a  pretty  little  stream,  rising  near  the  head 
waters  of  French  creek.  It  drives  a  number  of  mills,  and  there  are 
wme  irou-works  upon  it. 

Ashtabula  river  is  a  pretty  large  stream,  which  drives  a  number 
of  mills,  and  has  some  pretty  rich  lands  on  its  banks. 


^  ■!.» 


J 


.1' .1  fr 


•« 
«► 


470 


OMO. 


,  CHAPTER  XCIII. 

STATE  OF  OHIO. 

M.  HAVE  already  been  so  copious  in  my  remarks  on  tiie  respec- 
tive districts  of  this  interesting  state,  that  little  now  remains  but  to 
give  in  this  chapter  a  general  summary. 

It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Luke  Erie  and  Michigan  territory; 
on  the  south  and  south-east  by  the  Ohio  river ;  on  the  east  by  Penn- 
sylvania ;  and  on  the  west  by  the  Indiana  territory.  It  extends 
from  north  latitude  38°  30'  to  39"  57',  and  from  3*  25'  to  7°  37' 
west  longitude.  Its  length  is  228  miles,  and  its  breadth  227 ;  its 
square  contents  about  43,860  miles,  or  28,070,400  acres. 

The  face  of  the  country  has  been  noticed  in  the  several  districts, 
except  to  the  north-west,  where  the  Indian  claim  is  not  yet  extin* 
guished ;  and  this  is  a  large  tract,  occupying  nearly  one- fourth 
the  whole  state.  Tliat  part  of  it  which  borders  upon  the  lakes  ha 
been  noticed.  It  appears  to  be  generally  level,  or  rather  an  undu 
lating  country,  abounding  with  plains,  and  the  soil  is  mostly  gc 
The  Miami  of  the  lakes  runs  through  the  northern  part  of  it,  anj 
appears  to  be  a  very  interesting  river,  with  rich  banks.  It  rises  i{ 
the  Indiana  territory  a  little  beyond  the  state  line,  where  there  is 
portage  of  8  miles  only  to  the  Wabash.  It  continues  a  north*ea 
course  to  Fort  Defiance,  where  it  is  joined  by  the  Au  Glaise  rive 
a  considerable  stream  from  the  southward,  which  rises  near  the  he 
of  the  Great  Miami.  From  Fort  Miami  the  river  runs  a  nort| 
east  course  of  60  miles,  when  it  falls  into  Lake  Erie,  through 
ami  bay.  The  bay  extends  about  12  miles  into  the  interior  of  t^ 
country ;  is  from  half  a  mile  to  3  miles  wide,  and  deep  enough 
vessels  of  30  or  40  tons.  The  river  is  navigable  for  long  boats  xac 
than  100  miles.  The  Sandusky  river  and  bay  have  been  alrea 
noticed ;  but  it  may  be  added  here  that  the  river  rises  in  this  dl 
trict,  near  the  head  of  Whetstone  river,  about  60  mi'.!S  from 
lake,  and  passes  through  a  tract  of  excellent  country,  gliding  w^ 
a  rapid  course  over  a  bed  of  limestone  so  interrupted  with  re 
and  ra|)ids  as  to  render  the  navigation  impracticable,  except  a  ve 
little  way  from  the  bay. 

It  may  be  said,  in  general,  of  the  whole  state,  that  it  iias  a  good 
soil,  a  good  climate,  is  well  watered,  and  abound^  with  excellent 
timber  and  mipcrals. 


7 


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jitiie  way  from  tFTe  "Bay. 

It  may  be  said,  in  general,  of  the  whole  state,  that  it  has  a  good 
soil,  a  good  climate,  is  well  watered,  and  abound^  with  excellent 
timber  and  miperals.  


Having  tlicse  f. 

ittcntion,  and  be< 

already  noticed,  I 

it  contained  only 

ritorial  furni  of  g( 

number  of  inhabit 

totlie  union  as  a  > 

iohabitants;  and 

going  on,  that  it ' 

and,  ultimately,  it 

habitants  than  anj 

As  the  settlemei 

economy,  I  shall  li 

and  counties,  with 


on  10.  471 

Having  these  grcBt  natural  advantngcv,  it  soon  attrnctect  general 
ittcntion,  nnd  be^ran  tu  settle  under  certain  grants,  which  have  been 
already  noticed,  IVom  20  to  25  years  ago ;  but  nt  the  census  of  1800 
it  contained  only  'I5y365  inliabitants,  and  remained  under  the  ter- 
ritoriiil  form  of  government  until  the  year  1802,  when  having  the 
number  of  inhabit:ints  re(]uired  by  law,  60,000,  it  was  admitted  in- 
to the  union  as  a  utate.  It  now  contains,  by  the  last  census,  2.^0,760 
inhabitants ;  and  such  is  the  rapid  steps  by  which  the  population  ia 
going  on,  that  it  will  probably  contain  600,000 in  10  yeurs  hence; 
and,  ultimately,  it  will  probably  support  a  greater  number  of  in- 
habitants than  ony  of  the  old  states,  New  York,  perhaps,  excepted. 

As  the  settlement  of  this  state  is  a  remarkable  feature  in  political 
economy,  I  shall  here  insert  a  statistical  table  of  the  several  districtj 
mil  counties,  with  the  population  by  the  last  census. 


r  H'.Lf 


"■    '      il 


'rM\ 


I'O^ 


;  ''^^  li 


.       (,.»'.- 


•ri 


Hi 


472  omo. 

STATISTICAL  TABLE  OF  THE  STATE  OF  OHIO. 


»%»%»%%%«%%»»%»»»»%»«»« 


Those  counties  whore  the  populgtion  is  not  Blled  up,  have  been  laid  of 
since  the  censuM  was  taken. 

Those  counties  marked  **•  are  principally  situated  in  the  district  oppo. 
■    site  to  them,  but  part  is  in  another  district. 


PerMnsof 

DiktricU. 

Courttiai. 

Maiei. 

FvmalM.  colour  not 
Indians. 

Tatal. 

I 

Connecticut  IUmotts 

AthUbuia 

Geauga 

l.'!64 

1350 

3 

son    j 

. 

Cayalioga 
Huron 

7t)8 

64T 

14 

14.'!9      ' 

i 

1 

Portage 

1C12 

1376 

7 

CU95      ' 

Trumbull 

450O 

4026 

S5 

StiTl 

Canton 

Kichland 
Wayne 

Steub«nville 

Columbiana 

5529 

5250 

99 

10«7«      i 

•Stark 

1462 

1265 

7 

'i734 

. 

Jetrerson 

8778 

8358 

124 

.      17'260      ' 

Marietta 

*  Uelraont 

5721 

5288. 

88 

11097      ; 

ZanviiviUo 

•Tuscarawa 
Cor.hocton 

1582 

1457 

6 

3045 

•Guernsey 

lAlC 

1428 

7 

3051      i 

Muskmgum 

5305 

4656 

75 

loov; 

•Washington 

311 2 

2831 

48 

5f»91 

Ohio  Company 

•Athens 

1463 

1324 

4 

2791      1 

•Gallia 

i'175 

1991 

15 

4181      I 

•Knox 

1145 

99Q 

12 

2129      ! 

•  Delaware 

1033 

923 

44 

2000  ; 

•Licking 

204B 

1796 

8 

3852 

♦Franklin 

1796 

1647 

43 

3486      , 

Fairfield 

5928 

5398 

3.5 

11361      1 

•  Pickaway 

3726 

3329 

69 

7124 

•KOM 

7950 

7194 

370 

15514      i 

•Scioto 

1792 

1578 

29 

3399      ' 

Virginia  Military 

Madison 

876 

714 

13 

1603 

Fayette 

974 

876 

4 

1854 

•  Greene 

3039 

2795 

36 

5870      , 

Clinton 

1316 

1349 

9 

2674      ; 

•Warren 

5152 

4684 

89 

9925      1 

Highland 

3044 

2596 

126 

5766      , 

Adamn 

4825 

4588 

21 

9436     ! 

1 

Clermont 

4981 

4947 

37 

99C5 

Sj'nmieh'  Purchase 

•Hamilton 

7886 

7214 

158 

15258 

Cincinnati 

•('hampaign 

3302 

2936 

65 

6305      ' 

Minna 
Clark 

2047 

1873 

SI 

3^41      , 

1 

>Iontgomery 

^031 

3637 

54 

7722 

I'reble 

1714 

1565 

25 

3304 

•Butler 

5745 

5326 

79 

11150 

119R57 

109204 

1899 

230760 

Of  these  thort 


OHIO. 


473 


Of  these  there  nre, 


Under  10  years  of  ngf, 
Of  10,  nnJ  uiulcr  iti, 
Of  16,  and  under  '26, 
Of  20,  and  under  45, 
Of  45,  and  upwnrdH, 


Males. 

Females. 

\(i/i2^ 

44,192 

\U,\li) 

1^,86!) 

20, 1 H9 

19,990 

2'-',  761 

I9,4.'i6 

IJjWG.'J 

8,717 

119,657 

109,204 

nno  o<M 

Indians, 

l,b99 

230,760 

People  of  colour,  excluding  Indians, 


From  0  view  of  this  population,  taken  in  connection  with  that 
of  the  United  States,*  several  important  conclusions  may  bu 
drawn : 

In  the  first  place,  it  appears  that  more  males  are  born  in  the 
United  States  than  females.  The  difference  between  the  males 
and  females  under  10  years  of  age  in  this  state  is  2431,  being  up- 
wards of  1  in  19;  and  in  the  United  States  it  is  53,852,  being 
nearly  in  the  same  proportion.  This  seems  to  be  a  wise  regulation 
of  Providence,  to  provide  for  the  drain  that  afterwards  takes  place 
in  the  male  world,  for  the  defence  of  the  country,  for  the  pro- 
secution of  foreign  commerce,  for  travelling  into  distant  coun- 
tries, and  for  settling  up  distant  districts. 

From  10  to  16,  this  drain  begins  to  take  place,  and  the  equili- 
brium begins  to  be  restored.  It  is  not  felt  in  this  state,  for  obvi- 
ous reasons ;  but,  in  the  United  States,  the  difference  is  little  more 
than  1  in  24. 

From  16  to  26,  the  effect  is  very  apparent.  In  this  state,  the 
equilibrium  is  restored  within  199;  ond  in  the  United  States,  the 
females  are  more  than  the  males  by  14,071,  being  nearly  1  in  40. 

Above  26,  the  males  outnumber  the  females,  both  in  the  Unit- 
ed States  and  in  this  state.  In  the  United  States,  the  difference 
is  nearly  1  in  1 7 ;  and  in  this  state  it  is  more  remarkable,  being 
nearly  1  in  5,  On  looking  over  the  census  of  the  United  States, 
a  curious  fact  appears:    this  great  disproportion  in  the  state  of 


•  See  the  table  in  the  chapter  titled  United  State*. 
60 


474 


OHIO. 


Ohio  has  nctually  a  couiitt^)alance  in  that  part  of  New  England 
conipreheniling  Now  Hampshire,  Massachusetts,  Rhode  IsIhik], 
and  Connecticut.  In  these  lour  states,  the  females  of  26 
and  upwards  outnumber  the  males  by  16,953;  beinfr,  in  tlie  ag- 
^legate,  equal  to  1  in  11.  In  New  Hampshire,  it  is  about  I  in 
17;  in  Massachusetts,  1  in  1 1 ;  in  Rhode  Ishmd,  1  in  8  ;  and  in 
Connecticut,  1  in  10.  'i'his  result,  so  different  from  nil  the  other 
states,  corroborates  the  well-known  (act,  that  the  great  influx  of 
population  into  this  state  has  been  from  these  states ;  and  this  and 
other  circumstances  show  that  they  are,  in  fact,  the  great  nur- 
sery from  whence  the  northern  part  of  the  western  world  is  to  be 
peopled.  Thij  reflection  really  inspires  the  mind  with  deliglitt'ul 
sensations,  in  reviewing  this  elegant  country.  1  he  mass  of  the 
New  England  people  get  a  virtuous  education ;  they  are  generally 
handsome  in  their  persons,  active,  hardy,  and  industrious;  audit 
is  the  very  flower  of  them  who  emigrate.  The  mind  that  con- 
ceives a  settlement  in  a  distant  country  must  be  possessed  of  inde- 
pendence ;  the  spirit  that  executes  an  overland  journey  of  five  or 
six  weeks,  in  search  of  independence,  must  be  ennobled  by  the 
Great  Spirit;  and  his  blessing  on  their  virtuous  exertions  is  their 
reward.  Having  seen  and  admired  these  exertions,  they  have 
every  good  wish  of  mine  in  their  favour.  I  will  only  suggest  to 
the  males  to  take  a  greater  portion  of  the  "  blooming  Yankw; 
girls"  along  with  them,  and  not  suffer  nearly  1 7,000  of  thom  to 
pine  away  as  old  maids  in  their  own  country,  when  it  is  se€» 
they  are  so  much  wanted  in  this. 

The  improvements  in  this  state  generally  have  kept  pace  with 
the  spirit  and  industry  of  th"  people,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  notice 
that  has  been  taken  of  many  of  the  towns,  farm-houses,  manufac- 
tories, roads,  bridges,  &c. ;  anil  it  may  be  useful  to  insert  tin; 
principal  towns  in  the  respective  districts,  in  a  geographical  ar- 
rangement, so  as  to  give  a  connected  view  of  the  whole. 


Didricts. 

Connecticut  Reserve, 
Steubenville  District, 

Zanesville  District, 

Marietta  District, 

Ohio  Company's  P;  Thase, 


Chuf  To'vcns. 

Warren, 

Canton,  New   Lisbon,    Stcubcn- 

ville,  St.  Clairsville. 
New    Philadelphia,     Coshocton, 

Zanesville. 
Marietta. 
Athens,  GalUopolis. 


Chillicothc  District, 
Virgin  ill  Militatary  Lands, 
Syinmcs'  Purchase, 
Cincinnati  District, 


OHIO.  475 

Newark,    Worthington,    Nev    ^ 
Lancaster. 

Frankliiiton,  Chillicothe,  Zcnia, 
West  Union,  Williamsburg. 

Lebanon,    Deerfield,  Hamilton, 
Cincinnati. 

Dayton. 

Besides  these,  there  is  a  vast  number  of  small  villages,  mostly 
all  increasing ;  and  the  view  of  the  buildings  in  the  towns,  villages, 
and  farm-houses  show  the  progress  of  industr}',  of  wealth,  and  of 
public  taste.  The  first  buildings  are  mostly  temporary  log  huts. 
These  give  way  to  frame  houses;  and,  in  many  districts  of  this 
country,  the  number  of  elegant  brick  and  stone  buildings  is  really 
surprizing. 

Three  percent,  of  all  the  money  arising  from  the  sale  of  lands 
by  the  United  States  is  appropriated  to  the  making  of  roads,  and 
this  (vnd  has  been  greatly  supported  by  the  state  legislature,  in 
whi'vi  the  respective  counties  have  actively  co-opeiated,  so  that 
the  whole  state  is  checquered  with  roads  in  all  directions.  Many 
of  them  are  not  very  good;  but,  making  allowance  lor  the  newness" 
of  the  country,  this  important  branch  has  been  supported  with 
laudable  attentic>n.  Bridges  are  numerous,  but  they  are  mostly 
temporary.  Canals  are  not  wanted,  except  at  some  few  portages 
already  noticed ;  and  they  will,  no  doubt,  be  cut  as  soon  as  there 
is  suflicient  intercourse  to  supi^ort  them. 

The  great  business  of  the  state  is  agriculture,  aided  by  such 
branches  of  mechanism  as  tend  to  support  that  important  brunch, 
and  such  manufacturer  as  are  calculated  for  the  state  of  society ; 
together  with  teachers,  doctors,  and  lawyers,  of  which  the  former 
are  most  wanted,  and  have  the  best  chance  of  success.  They  will 
require,  however,  to  be  men  of  plain  good  sense,  having  a  stock 
of  useful  information,  and  a  happy  facility  for  communicating  it 
to  the  rising  generation.  Ornamental  education,  and  especially 
that  tinselled  kind  of  it  which  may  be  called  the  ghost  of  orna- 
laent,  is  not  wanted  here,  for  the  people  are  plain  practical  folks, 
iwving  a  turn  for  examination,  and  for  looking  into  the  inside  of 
things;  and  it  is  only  such  as  appear  to  confer  some  substantial  ad- 
vantage, that  they  will  be  willing  to  pay  for.  In  suppv)rt  of  edu- 
cation, there  is  a  more  ample  fund  provided  than  in  any  other 
country  in  the  world;  consisting  of  no  loss  than  one-thirty-sixlh 


jl  ■  «.!''<.• 


I 


it 


'.  -*/.• 


•  liii 


476  OHIO. 

part  of  the  whole  lands  in  the  state.  These  school-lands  arc  dif- 
ferently situated  in  different  districts.  In  the  United  Slates  army- 
lands  and  Connecticut  reserve,  the  school-Jands  are  interspersed 
throughout  the  districts  in  tracts  of  from  4000  to  16,000  acres,  so 
as  to  form  one- thirty -sixth  of  the  whole.  In  the  Virginia  military 
lands  one-thirty-hixth  part  of  the  district  is  to  be  selected  by  the 
legislature  of  the  state,  after  the  Virginia  land-warrants  are  satis- 
fied. In  all  the  other  districts  one-thirty-sixlh  part  of  each  townslii|) 
is  appropriated,  being  uniformly  the  sixteenth  section,  which  lies 
near  the  centre.  Of  all  the  arrangements,  I  consider  this  the 
best,  because  it  places  the  public  property  of  the  township  under 
the  immediate  direction  and  management  of  those  interested  in  it; 
so  that  more  benefit  will  doubtless  result  from  it,  than  any  ot'  the 
others.  In  process  of  time,  the  effect  of  these  appropriations  will 
be  salutary  beyond  what  we  can  at  present,  perhaps,  form  an 
idea  of.  Let  this  simple  arrangement  be  contrasted  with  what 
some  of  the  cnlighted  governments  of  Europe  have  done  to  en- 
lighten the  human  mind,  and  then  say  whether  the  people  are  not 
fit  to  govern  themselves,  or  whether  "  they  are  their  own  worst 
friends,"  when  they  attempt  it. 

The  whole  of  this  territory  belonged  to  the  United  States,  and, 
during  the  territorial  government,  they  made  several  important 
regulations  which  deserve  to  be  noticed.  First,  the  legislature 
were  prohibited  by  the  United  States  from  interfering  with  the 
disj)osal  of  the  soil,  or  any  regulations  that  congress  might  find 
necessary  to  make  for  securing  the  titles  to  the  purchasers.  Se- 
cond, no  tax  could  be  imposed  on  lands,  the  property  of  the 
United  States ;  and  in  no  case  could  non-resident  proprietors  be 
taxed  higher  than  residents.  Third,  the  navigable  waters  lead- 
ing into  the  Mississippi  and  St,  Laurence,  and  the  carrying-places 
between  them,  are  to  be  commcn  highways,  and  for  ever  free,  as 
well  to  tiie  inhabitants  of  the  said  territory  as  to  the  inhabitants  oi 
the  United  States,  and  those  of  any  other  states  that  may  be  ad- 
mitted into  tlie  conl'edcracy,  without  any  tax.  These  several  laws 
were  continued  in  Ibrcc,  and  at  passing  the  act  for  admitting  the 
state  of  Ohio  into  the  union,  it  was  agreed  to  grant  to  the  state 
the  section  No.  16,  in  each  township,  for  school-lands;  the  six 
mile  s(}uare  reservation,  including  the  salt-springs  on  the  Scioto; 
the  salt-springs  near  the  Muskingum,  and  those  in  the  military 
tract,  with  the  sections  that  include  the  same;   and  the  aforesaid 


OHIO. 


477 


fund  for  making  and  supporting  roads ;  it  being  understood  that 
all  purchases  of  land  from  the  United  States,  should  be  exempt- 
ed from  the  state  tax  till  five  years  after  the  purchase  is  made. 

It  was  also  enacted  by  congress,  that  there  ishould  neither  be 
slavery  nor  involuntary  servitude  in  the  territory,  and  the  lands 
being  sold,  and  the  country  originally  settled  under  that  regula- 
tion, it  is  supposed  by  some  that  the  state  legislature  could  not 
now  pass  a  law  to  admit  slaves.  Others  think  they  have  full 
power.  But  the  discussion  of  this  point  is  of  no  consequence,  as 
ilavery  is  expressly  prohibited  by  the  state  constitution ;  and,  were 
the  case  submitted  to  the  people,  I  have  no  doubt  but  more  than 
nine-tenths  of  them  would  be  against  slavery. 

1  have  already  noticed  that  the  genius  of  the  people  may,  in 
part,  be  inferred  from  the  state  constitutions.  If  so,  the  people  of 
this  state  have  clear  heads,  and  a  correct  view  of  political  princi- 
ples. The  constitution  of  the  state  of  Ohio  is  probably  the  most 
complete  state  constitution  in  the  union ;  but  it  is  to  be  remarked 
that  the  framers  of  it  had  the  experience  of  16  states  before  them. 
Like  the  constitutions  of  the  most  of  the  slates,  it  is  founded  upon 
jeneral  principles,  and  declares  that 

All  men  are  born  equally  free  and  independent. 

All  men  have  a  natural  right  to  worship  God  according  to  the 
dictates  of  their  own  consciences. 

Trial  by  jury  shall  be  inviolate. 

Printing-presses  shall  be  free. 

Unwarrantable  searches  shall  not  be  permitted. 

Unnecessary  rigor  shall  not  be  exercised. 

Excessive  bail  shall  not  be  required  in  bailable  offences. 

All  penalties  shall  be  proportioned  to  the  nature  of  the  offence. 

The  liberty  of  the  people  to  assemble  together  to  consult  for  the 
public  good,  and  to  bear  arms  in  their  own  defence,  is  guaran- 
teed. 

Hereditary  emoluments,  privileges,  and  honours,  are  for  ever 
prohibited. 

Slavery  is  for  ever  prohibited,  and  it  is  declared  that  "  no  in- 
denture of  any  negro  or  mulatto  hereafter  made  and  executed 
out  of  the  state,  or,  if  made  in  the  state,  where  the  term  of  ser- 
vice exceals  one  year,  shall  be  of  the  least  validity,  except  those 
given  ill  the  case  of  apprenticeship.'* 


M  J 


^'■IflH 


478 


Ohio. 


it 


Religion,  morality,  and  knowledge,  being  essentially  neces- 
sary to  the  good  government  and  happiness  of  mankind,  school* 
and  the  means  of  instruction  shall  for  ever  be  encouraged  by  leiris- 
lative    provision,  not  inconsistent  with  the  rights  of  conscience." 

The  government  is  legislative  and  executive,  with  power  to 
provide  for,  and  regulate  the  judicial  and  military  authority. 

The  le^^isluture  consists  of  two  branches ;  a  senate  and  house  of  | 
representatives.     The  representatives  must  not  exceed  72  members 
and  arc  chosen  annually  by  the  people,  in  which  every  free  white 
male  who  is  a  citizen  of  the  United  States,  and  has  resided  a  year 
in  the  state,  and  paid  taxes,  shall  have  a  vote.     The  representatives  I 
must  have  the  same  qualifications,  and  be  25  years  of  age. 

The  senators  are  chosen  biennially  by  qualified  voters  for  repre- 
sentatives, and  one  half  vacate  their  seats  every  year.  They  shall 
never  be  less  than  one-third  nor  more  than  one-half  of  the  repre- 
sentatives. They  must,  besides  the  other  qualifications  of  the  re- 
presentatives, have  resided  two  years  in  the  country,  and  be  30  years  I 
of  age. 

The  governor  is  chosen  by  the  electors  for  the  members  of  the! 
general  assembly  for  the  term  of  two  years,  and  is  not  eligible  furl 
more  than  six  years  in  eight.  He  must  be  30  years  of  age,  and  have! 
been  a  citizen  of  the  United  States  12  years,  and  an  inhabitant  ofj 
the  state  four  years. 

The  judicial  power  is  vested  in  a  supreme  court,  in  courts  oti 
common  pleas  for  each  county,  in  justices  of  the  peace,  and  sucho-j 
ther  courts  as  the  legislature  may  appoint. 

The  .supreme  court  consists  of  three  judges,  appointed  by  the  as-j 
sembly,  who  hold  their  offices  for  seven  years. 

The  courts  of  common  pleas  consist  of  a  president  and  associate 
judges,  chosen  in  like  manner,  and  for  the  like  term. 

A  justice  court  is  held  in  c.ich  township,  and  the  justices  are  e-j 
lected  by  the  hihabitants  of  the  respective  towns;  and  continue  in 
office  three  years.  The  powers  and  duties  of  the  justices  are  fronJ 
time  to  time  regulated  and  defined  by  law.  I  may  notice  thatthiJ 
last  regulation  is  a  peculiar  feature  in  the  localjurisprudenceoitliej 
state,  and  goes  far  to  do  away  all  petty  litigation. 

The  justices  originally  had  cognizance  of  all  cases  where  the  sural 
did  not  exceed  30  dollars.  By  an  act  of  the  legislature  their  po«j 
ers  were  extended  to  cases  not  exceeding  50  dollars ;  which  gavj 
rise  to  a  very  singular  transaction  in  the  state.     The  judges  ot  m 


jjoreme  court 


"ge  as  it  may  appej 


rnio. 


479 


jupreme  court  refused  to  put  the  Inw  in  execution,  allcginj;;  that  it 
was  contrary  to  the  constitution  of  the  United  States.  They  were 
impeached  by  the  house  of  representatives ;  but  it  requires  two- 
thirds  of  the  senate  to  convict,  and  they  were  saved  by  a  very  nar- 
row majority.  The  legislature,  to  mark  their  disapprobation  of  the 
conduct  of  the  judges,  raised  the  sum  from  50  to  70  dollars ;  and 
when  the  seven  years  for  which  they  were  appointed  expired,  they 
were  not  re-elected.  The  justice  courts  have  now  cognizance  of  all 
cases  where  the  sums  do  not  exceed  70  dollars. 

hi  the  military  department  the  captains  and  subalterns  of  the  mi- 
litia are  chosen  by  those  persons  in  their  res})ective  company  dis- 
tricts subject  to  military  duty. 

Majors  are  elected  by  captains  and  subalterns. 

Colonels  are  elected  by  majors,  captains  and  subalterns. 

Brigadier-generals  are  elected  by  the  commissioned  officers  of 
their  respective  brigades. 

Major-generals  and  quarter-master  generals  are  appointed  by 
jomt  ballot  of  both  houses  of  the  legislature. 

I^e  Governor  is  the  commander  in  chief,  and  appoints  the 
adjutants. 

It  is  proper  to  remaric  that  the  legislature  of  this  state  lias  been 
careful  to  enact  several  laws  to  curb  irregularities,  and  to  enforce 
the  practice  ot  virtue ;  and  they  have  had  a  very  salutary  effect. 
In  travelling  through  the  state  I  noticed  the  peaceable  deportment 
of  the  inhabitants,  and  was  somewhat  surprised  that  I  heard  no 
swearing.  It  is  prohibited  by  law,  at  the  rate  of  a  dollar  for  an  oath  ; 
and  the  law  is  strictly  put  in  execution.  Illegitimate  commerce  be- 
tween the  sexes  is  also  prohibited,  under  pretty  heavy  penalties ;  and 
a  law  has  lately  been  enacted  to  enforce  the  marriage  covenant,  iu 
cases  where  people  are  disposed  to  plead  adisannullmcnt  on  the 
score  of  religion.*  Upon  the  whole,  the  state  of  Ohio  {-roujiscs 
fair  to  become  one  of  the  brightest  in  the  union,  in  point  of  internal 
prosperity  and  a  virtuous  population, 

•  A  singular  religious  sect  made  its  appearance  in  this  country  some  time  ago,  calk-J 
Shakers.  One  of  their  regvlations  is  Uiat  none  of  their  mcuihers  are  to  many  ;  and 
those  who  are  married  when  they  join  them,  they  consider  free  from  tlie  marriage  obli- 
g>t>on.  They  are  reputed  to  be  a  sober  industrious  people,  in  general ;  but  the  absurd- 
ity of  this  regulation  is  self-evident.  Were  such  a  practice  to  become  general,  tla-  f,!obe 
"ttuldsoonbe  depopulated.  But  the  ties  of  affection  between  the  sexes  are  too  duply 
**ted  in  our  nature  by  the  God  of  Nature  to  be  rooted  out  by  this  or  any  other  sect, 
otiange  as  it  may  appear,  however,  a  number  of  people  have  deserted  their  families  ta 


'5  ■   •■; 


:i 


480 


TRAVELS    IV 


CHAPTER  XCIV. 

Pennsj/lvania, — Eric. 

The  banks  of  tlic  lake  in  Pennsylvania  exhibited  nearly  the  same 
appearance  as  those  to  the  westward ;  but  we  noticed  that  many 
settlemrnts  had  been  made,  and  the  country  was  generally  more  c- 
levated.  The  wintl  was  from  the  north-west,  and  the  effect  was  ve- 
ry different  from  thnt  of  north-west  winds  to  the  east  of  the  moun- 
tains.    It  was  here  cloutly  and  mild. 

We  continued  along  the  shore  without  any  interruption,  for  se- 
ven miles,  when  we  came  to  Elk  creek ;  and  here  we  were  obliccd 
to  ride  a  considerable  way  through  the  woods  to  get  across  the 
creek  by  a  bridge.  In  the  course  of  our  ride  we  saw  a  number  of 
settlements  that  had  been  abandoned,  and  were  informed  that  it 
was  in  consequence  of  a  difficidty  about  the  land-titles,  which  had 
operated  very  much  against  the  settlement  of  this  part  of  Pennsyl- 
vania. We  travelled  along  the  lake  shore,  eight  miles,  to  Walnut 
creek,  where  we  stopped  to  feed  our  horses  at  some  good  mills,  and 
found  the  country  liere  healthy  and  agreeable. 

At  Walnut  creek  we  left  the  lake  shore,  and  travelled  through  a 
pretty  good  soil,  the  woods  very  thick,  and  abounding  with  large 
trees  of  hemlock.  Towards  dark  we  reached  a  fine  turnpike  road, 
leading  from  Erie  to  French  creek,  and  travelling  along  it  two  miles, 
we  reached  Erie,  11  miles  from  Walnut  creek,  at  7  o'clock. 

Erie  is  situated  in  latitude  42"  8',  on  a  high  bank  on  the  south 
side  of  the  lake,  opposite  to  a  small  peninsula  which  extends  a  con- 
siderable way  into  the  lake,  and  forms  a  natural  basin  for  a  har- 
bour ;  but  the  entrance  is  choaked  up  by  a  sand-bar,  and  vessels 
have  to  lie  on  the  outside  exposed  to  the  weather. 

The  town  is  regularly  laid  out,  in  a  beautiful  and  healthy  situa- 
tion, but  it  is  not  increasing.  It  contains  about  76  houses,  mostly 
built  of  wood,  but  seven;!  of  them  are  uninhabited.  Thenumvor 
of  inhabitants  is  ^95.     The  public  buildings  to,  u  court-house, 

join  them ;  and  as  it  was  requisite  to  put  all  their  money  into  the  common  stock  of  the 
society,  tlieir  families  were  left  destitute,  and  became  a  burden  upon  the  public.  Tie 
•tate  verj- judiciously  enacted  that  when  any  man  joins  such  a  society,  the  wife  shnllbe 
entitled  to  all  the  property  ;  and  should  that  not  be  sufficient  to  maintain  the  family,  he 
is  bound  to  find  security  that  they  will  be  proTidedfar  without  becoming  a  burden  on  the 
state. 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


481 


jail,  and  school.  Tiierc  are  three  taverns,  and  three  stores ;  and  a 
number  of  tradesmen  are  employed  ;  but  the  place  appears  dull. 
Until  of  late,  the  town  was  supported  by  the  salt  trade;  but  that 
has  very  much  declined,  in  consequence  of  so  much  of  the  lowci 
country  being  now  supplied  from  the  Kanhaway  works. 

The  soil  is  pfetty  good  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  town,  but 
the  difficulty  about  land-titles  has  extended  to  this  place,  and 
greatly  retarded  the  progress  of  settlement,  and  the  prosperity  of 
the  country.  Provisions  are  not  so  plenty  nor  so  cheap  as  in  some 
ether  places  of  the  western  country ;  flour  is  6  dollars  per  barrel, 
beef  4  dollars  50  cents  per  cwt.,  bacon  12,1  cents  per  pound  ;  fiih 
are  very  plenty,  and  of  an  excellent  quality. 

The  seasons  here  are  rather  cold.  Winter  commences  about  the 
1st  of  December,  and  continues  to  the  1st  of  April,  somclinus  in- 
tensely cold,  with  a  continued  frost  for  three  months.  The  »j)ring, 
summer,  and  fall  are  very  pleasant. 

Land  in  the  neighbourhood,  where  the  title  is  good,  sells  for 
from  5  to  10  dollars;  labourers  have  75  cents  per  day,  carpenters  1 
dollar,  masons  1  dollar  50  cents.  There  is  no  opening  for  manu- 
factures except  carding  machines. 

The  country  is  well  adapted  for  grazing ;  sheep  thrive  very  well, 
and  potatoes  are  the  best  I  have  seen  in  America. 

This  place  is  about  100  miles  from  Pittsburg,  and  there  is  a  wa- 
ter conveyance  all  the  way  except  14*  miles,  over  which  there  is 
now  an  excellent  turnpike  road ;  and  it  has  been  in  contemplation 
to  dig  a  canal.  It  is  quite  practicable,  at  least  from  the  town  of 
Erie  to  French  creek;  but  the  bank  of  the  lake  is  too  high  and 
steep  to  allow  a  hope  to  be  encouraged  that  the  waters  can  be  con- 
nected for  a  long  time  to  come.  It  is  remarked  by  the  inhabitants 
here,  that  the  lake  has  fallen  three  feet  since  the  first  settK^ment  of 
Erie,  and  there  is  not  now  more  than  six  fert  water  on  the  bar.  It 
is  presumed  that  2000  dollars  would  make  it  sufficiently  deep  to  ad- 
mit the  traders  on  the  lake. 

Mr.  Baird,  my  agreeable  travelling  companion,  came  up  with 
his  drove  of  cattle  here,  and  we  parted.  He  told  me  that  the  peo- 
ple along  the  banks  of  the  lake  would  always  have  a  fine  market 
tor  their  surplus  stock  to  the  eastward,  and  that  there  would  be 
plenty  of  people  always  ready  to  buy.  The  price  at  present  is  25 
oollars  for  cattlt,  measuring  six  feet  round  the  belly,  and  1  dollar 
»s  added  or  deducted  for  every  inch  over  or  under  that  measure. 

f)l 


it,-  »■■ 


i  ■    Hi!' 


'f!!  (  ''i 


t 


483 


THAVELS    IN 


CHAPTER  XCV. 


Leave  Ericj — Cataragus  arekf — Biffalo. 

t^IIlLE  I  remained  at  Eric,  a  vessel  came  in  from  Buffalo, 
which  was  to  sail  aj^ain  in  a  short  time.  I  had  some  thoughts  of 
taking  a  passage  by  it ;  but  reflecting  on  the  uncertainty  of  water 
conveyance,  I  gave  up  the  idea,  and  d&termined  to  go  on  lantl. 
1  accordingly  set  out  at  12  o'clock  on  the  25th  of  October,  and 
travelled  4^  miles,  when  I  passed  a  pretty  clear  stream  running 
over  a  stratum  of  slate.  Near  this  place  1  noticed  the  dreadful  ef. 
fects  produced  by  a  tornado.  A  piece  of  ground  about  half  a  mile 
broad,  and  of  a  length  that  I  could  not  perceive,  had  its  timber, 
some  of  it  very  large,  completely  blown  down,  and  appeared  like 
a  large  avenue.  I  passed  over  a  number  of  pretty  little  streams, 
the  water  generally  clear,  with  a  slate  bottom,  and  stopped  14 
miles  from  Erie  to  feed  my  horse.  Here  I  met  with  an  honest 
Dutch  farmer,  who  told  me  he  had  been  a  soldier  in  the  American 
war,  and  was  now  settled  near  Chataughque  lake,  in  a  fertile  coun- 
try, and  liked  the  place  very  well. 

We  travelled  on  together,  and  four  miles  from  the  tavern,  at 
Twenty  Mile  creek,  which  we  passed  after  descending  a  very  deep 
valley,  we  met  seven  waggons  loaded  with  new  settlers  for  the  wes- 
tern country.  Each  waggon  contained  about  eight  or  ten  persons. 
We  spoke  to  one  of  the  families,  who  told  us  they  were  from  Low- 
cr  Canada.  Ten  miles  beyond  this  we  reached  a  Mrs.  Perry's, 
near  Chataughque  creek,  where  we  stopped  all  night. 

October  2GtlK  This*  morning  was  clear,  cold,  and  beautiful, 
with  a  pretty  hard  frost.  I  met  with  two  gentlemen  of  the  name 
of  Strong  from  the  Connecticut  Reserve,  bound  for  Connecticut, 
and  I  availed  myself  of  their  company. 

There  is  no  great  variety  in  this  district :  the  face  of  the  country 
is  nearly  level ;  the  land  generally  pretty  good  ;.  and  the  woods  con- 
sist of  beech,  elm,  walnut,  chesnut,  &c.  interspersed  with  some 
little  hemlock  and  pine,  all  the  way  on  from  Erie.  We  travelled 
1 3  miles  to  breakfast,  part  of  the  way  by  an  execrable  road.  Four 
miles  from  thence  we  passed  through  Canadaway,  where  there 
is  a  fine  creek,  and  some  good  mills,  and  it  seems  a  thriving  set- 
tlement.    Beyond  this  the  road  is  a  little  mere  dry,  but  by  no  means 


NEW   YORK.  483 

good,  for  1 1  miles,  where  we  passed  two  very  romantic  little  streams 
wliith  formed  a  junction  a  little  below.  From  thence  we  passed  a 
pretty  hij^h  ridj^e,  and  came  to  the  banks  of  the  lake,  where  we 
could  sec  the  trees  in  Upper  Canada :  we  then  travelled  three  miles 
alonjj;  the  lake  shore,  when  we  arrived  at  Cataragiis,  where  we 
stopped  for  the  night. 

The  inhabitants  in  all  this  district  arc  mostly  from  the  New 
England  states,  and  are  very  civil  and  discreet. 

We  were  told  by  the  laiuUord,  that  a  vast  number  of  i)coj)le 
travel  through  this  place  annually  to  the  westward.  The  greatest 
number  are  from  Connecticut,  the  next  greatest  from  Massachu- 
sets,  next  from  New  Hampshire,  and  a  considerable  immbcr  from 
Rhode  Island,  Vermont,  and  Lower  Canada. 

Cataragus  creek  is  a  considerable  stream,  rising  about  /JO  miles 
to  the  eastward.  It  has  some  good  situations  for  mill-seats,  and 
fertile  banks,  particularly  near  the  lake,  on  which  there  is  an  In- 
dian reservation  of  about  50  s(juarc  miles,  containing  a  settlement 
of  between  500  and  GOO  Indians.  They  are  very  {)eaceable  and 
well  disposed. 

October  27th.  We  started  at  six  oclock ;  the  morning  was 
dear,  and  rather  cold.  We  crossed  at  a  ferry,  and  travelled 
through  a  rich  bottom,  part  of  the  Indian  reservation,  about  half 
a  mile,  when  we  reached  the  lake  shore.  There  was  a  considerable 
swell  from  the  north-west,  which  occasioned  a  rough  sMrf,  and 
wc  were  soon  stopped  at  a  rocky  precipice,  against  which  the  waves 
dashed  with  great  violence.  We  clambered  up  the  hill,  and  tra- 
velled round  it  through  the  woods  by  a  very  bad  road.  Here  vrc 
met  a  travelling  family  who  had  been  obliged  to  lie  out  all  night ; 
I  one  of  the  children  had  been  taken  sick,  and  the  poor  mother, 
a  very  good-looking  woman,  appeared  very  dejected;  but  she 
brightened  up  a  little  when  we  told  them  they  were  only  a  little 
way  from  a  tavern.  We  could  hardly  refrain  IVom  tears  of  sym- 
pathy, and  Mr.  Strong  said  it  brought  the  circumstance  of  his 
own  emigration  fresh  to  his  mind,  during  which  "  the  old  woman 
shed  nianv  a  salt  tear." 

Having  wished  this  family  a  good  journey,  we  travelled  on  a  lit- 
tle way,  when  we  came  to  a  second  set  of  rocks,  which  we  also  pas- 
sed by  a  very  bad  road  through  the  woods,  and  j^assing  again  to 
the  beach,  we  came  to  a  third  series,  along  the  foot  of  which  we 
travelled  nearly  three  quarters  of  a  mile.     These  rocks  are  elevated 


■A    i  '■' 


484 


TRAVELS   IN 


nbovc  the  luke  from  .'50  to  GO  feet,  arc  perpendicular,  and  general- 
ly composed  of  soft  blue  slate.  When  the  lake  is  calm,  or  when 
the  wind  blows  from  the  cast  or  south,  the  beach  is  dry  at  the  foot, 
and  travelling,  though  a  little  rough,  is  tolerably  good ;  but  wlien 
the  lake  is  roa<^h,  and  a  wind  irom  the  north  or  west,  it  is  impos- 
sible sometimes  to  pass  along  the  shore,  and  attended  with  daiifjer 
to  attempt  it.  We  were  told  that  a  waggon,  in  attempting  to  pass 
some  time  before,    had  been  upset,  and  a  young  wonian  drowned. 

At  this  place,  and  a  considerable  way  along  the  shore,  there  is  a 
singular  stratum  of  blue  slate,  over  which  the  road  passes,  smooth 
under  our  feet,  and  disposed  in  layers  of  about  2^  or  3  feet  broad, 
that  appear  as  regularly  joined  as  a  pavement  done  by  art.  These 
run  out  into  the  lake  nearly  at  right  angles  with  the  shore,  and  at  an 
angle  of  descent  probably  not  exceeding  one  degree.  They  appear- 
ed in  the  water  as  far  asl  could  perceive,  and  the  v  icw  was  really 
admirable. 

Passing  these,  we  travelled  a  little  way  over  sands,  when  we 
came  to  a  small  creek,  and  my  companions,  being  afraid  of  quick- 
sands at  its  outlet,  travelled  some  way  round  by  a  bridge.  As  I 
eaw  nothing  to  fear,  I  kept  the  road  by  the  lake  shore;  but  I  soon 
found  myself  in  an  unlooked-for  dilemma.  I  came  to  another  pre- 
cipice: my  companions  had  taken  the  lond  through  the  woods; 
the  waves  beat  violently  against  the  rocks ;  and  I  stood  for  some 
time  undetermined  whether  I  should  attempt  to  pass  pr  not.  I 
went  a  little  way  into  the  lake,  and  observed  that  the  passage  was 
of  no  great  breadth,  and  that  it  was  occasionally  nearly  dry  at  the 
foot  of  the  rocks.  I  was  induced  to  venture;  but  I  had  proceeded 
only  a  little  way  when  a  rolling  wave  nearly  dashed  my  horse  a- 
gainst  the  rocks,  and  almost  carried  it  off*  its  feet  by  its  return.  I 
was  now  in  equal  danger  whether  I  went  on  or  turned  back.  I 
pushed  on,  but  the  lake  became  more  deep,  and  the  bottom  very 
rougli.  Another  wave  struck  my  horse,  and  it  tumbled  over  a 
stone  at  the  same  moment,  and  had  almost  foundered.  However, 
1  was  now  past  the  worst,  and  in  a  little  got  safely  ronnd  the  rock, 
where  my  companions  were  anxiously  waiting  for  me.  It  appears, 
the  great  danger  in  these  passes  is  from  the  horse  foundering  over 
the  stony  bottom. 

Beyond  this  we  travellecl  over  a  broad  sandy  beach,  where  ve 
had  a  fiiie  view  of  the  lake;  the  land  was  flat,  and  the  soil  sandy; 
the  principal  timber  being  scrubby  oak,  hemlock,  pine,  &c.  At 
some  places,  however,  the  country  was  more  elevated,  with  vast 


KEW   YORK. 


485 


misses  of  limestone,  and  towards  noon  we  came  to  a  body  of  good 
land,  and  stopped  at  a  beautiful  plantation  on  the  banks  of  tlio 
lake  to  breakfast.  I  was  told  that  tlic  family  were  from  Vermont, 
jind  had  been  here  five  years.  They  had  a  farm  of  300  ocre«,  of 
which  they  had  cleared  120.  Here  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
prospects  that  I  saw  on  all  the  lake. 

From  hence  wc  travelled  five  miles  along  the  beach  ;  the  banks 
being  high,  and  pretty  fertile.  Mere  we  passed  u  creek,  in  the 
mouth  of  which  lay  a  little  crazy  boat,  which  was  bound  up  the 
lake,  but  could  not  proceed,  and  the  materials  of  a  moving  family 
were  scattered  abroad  upon  the  beach.  After  passing  this  creek 
the  sandy  beach  is  broad ;  the  land  on  the  shore  of  the  hike  is  low, 
and  we  were  told  that  an  extensive  swamp  stretched  a  considerable 
way  to  the  eastward.  As  we  approoched  the  Buffalo  creek,  we  left 
ike  lake  shore,  and  passed  over  a  very  fertile  tract  of  level  country. 
At  the  creek  the  people  were  building  a  bridge,  but  not  being  pas- 
wble,  we  crossed  by  a  boat,  and  travelling  along  a  very  fertile 
bank,  about  a  mile,  we  reached  Buffalo,  at  five  o'clock  in  the  even- 
ing. Here  1  stopped,  and  my  agreeable  travelling  companions 
continued  their  journey  to  the  eastward. 

Buffalo  is  handsomely  situated  at  the  east  end  of  lake  Erie, 
where  it  commands  a  beautiful  view  of  the  lake,  of  Upper  Canii- 
da,  and  fort  Erie,  and  a  great  distance  to  the  southward,  which  is 
terminated  by  an  elevated  lofty  country.  The  scite  of  the  town  ex- 
tends quite  to  the  lake  shore,  but  it  is  principally  built  on  an  emi- 
nence of  about  30  feet,  a  little  distance ;  and  to  the  south  along 
the  creek  are  handsome  rich  bottom  lots,  which  are  at  present  a 
little  marshy,  but  will,  when  drained,  be  most  valuable  appendages 
to  this  very  beautiful  place. 

Buffalo  was  laid  out  for  a  town  about  five  years  ago,  and  is  re- 
gularly disposed  in  streets  and  lots.  The  lots  are  from  60  to  100 
leet  deep,  and  sell  from  25  to  50  dollars;  and  there  are  out-lots  of 
5  and  10  acres,  worth  at  present  from  10  to  25  dollars  per  acre. 
The  population  was  by  last  census  365,  it  is  now  computed  at  500,. 
and  is  rapidly  increasing. 

The  buildings  are  mostly  of  wood,  painted  white,  but  there  is  a. 
number  of  good  brick  houses,  and  some  few  of  stone.  There  are 
tour  taverns,  eight  stores,  two  schools ;  and  a  weekly  newspaper 
has  been  recently  established.  The  town  is  as  yet  too  new  for  the 
introduction  of  any  manufactures,  except  those  of  the  domestic 
•find.    The  greater  part  of  the  people  are  farmers  and  mechanics. 


m 


'J 


Nl 


M 


hm-''' 


4SC}  TRAVELS    IN 

The  settlers  hero  arc  most  from  the  New  Englniul  stntcs,  but 
the  town  beinr;  on  the  ^rcat  thoroughfare  to  the  wtslcrn  coun- 
try,  there  is  a  general  mixture.  A  consitleruhic  trade  is 
constantly  kept  up  by  the  influx  and  reflux  of  straiij.'cr«., 
and  such  articles  as  are  necessary  for  their  acct)nunodution  are 
dear.  Ilonse-rent  is  from  2  to  'iO  dollars  per  week  ;  wood  is  1  iluU 
hir  })cr  cord,  flour  is  7  dollars  per  barrel,  pork  6  dollars  per  cwt., 
beef  i  dollars,  porter  fi  dollars  per  dozen.  Fish  are  very  piciitv 
and  cheap.     Boarding  is  about  3  dollars  per  week. 

The  situation  is  quite  healthy,  and  the  seasons  are  nuicli  more 
mild  and  open  than  might  be  cxpeeted  in  that  northern  latitude; 
the  eflects  of  the  southerly  winds  already  noted  are  very  aj)j)areiit 
I)  ere. 

IJufTalo  creek  rises  by  three  considerable  branches,  about  40 
miles  to  the  eastwai'd,  and  after  watering  an  extensive  tract  of  cmiii. 
try,  they  unite  about  six  miles  from  the  town,  where  there  is  a  con- 
siderable Indian  village,  and  flow  into  the  lake  by  a  slow  ciuriiu. 
It  is  navigable  about  four  miles,  and  it  is  proposed  to  run  a  pier  iiw 
to  the  lake  at  its  outlet,  and  form  a  harbour,  which  wouldbcamoit 
important  advantage  to  this  part  of  the  country. 

U()on  the  whole,  I  think  this  is  likely  to  become  a  great  settle- 
ment.  it  already  commands  un  inmiense  navigation,  and  itR  in- 
crease is  guaranteed  by  the  opening  t)f  loads  in  all  directions,  a 
great  many  of  which  must  centre  here.  Already  there  is  a  turnpike 
road  to  New  York,  having  tfie  accommodation  of  u  stage  three 
times  a  week ;  there  is  a  good  road  to  the  falls  of  Niagara,  and 
thence  through  a  considerable  part  of  Upper  Canada ;  a  turnpike 
road  is  projected  to  Philadelphia ;  and  from  the  increase  of  popu- 
lation to  the  westward,  a  good  road  must  soon  be  made  to  Eric,  and 
thence  in  different  directions  through  the  western  country. 

There  is  a  considerable  settlement  of  Indians  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  this  place,  and  Buflalo  is  a  sort  of  head- quarters  for  trans- 
acting Indian  business;  in  consequence  of  which  frequent  councils 
arc  held  here,  which  have  produced  several  very  brilliant  specimens 
of  Indian  intellect  and  eloquence.* 

•  Mr. Ward,  iny  fellow-traveller  on  the  Ohio,  was  here  in  the  preceding  month  of  Mar, 
and  attended  a  council,  at  which  lie  hoard  two  speeches  delivered  by  one  of  the  Indians 
called  Red  Jacket,  with  such  animation  of  gesture  and  force  of  language  as  perfectly  as- 
tonished him.  1  have  since  got  a  translation  of  these  extraordinary  speeches,  attested  by 
•  particular  friciKl,  and  hero  present  them  to  the  public  as  genuine  cfTusion*  of  natural 
eloquence. 


i 


I 


NEW    YOnK. 


4S7 


To  ctpUin  thom,  il  ii  naccsitary  to  sintc  thni  tin*  Iiulians  in  tliisdiatrivt,  \*lifn  tlicy  vilil 
thfi/l»<i'K  made  formin  n'Hervittiinis  for  thcmsi-lves  aiiii  iluir  fiimilifilort'sidi'  on.  Tuu 
ofihesc  n  <'rv«tion!i  hti\e  bwii  notii-ui,  Hn«l  thrro  arc  scvcrnl  ofhcr-i.  aiii<iiiiilin;{  in  tin! 
nliolc  to  upwiirds  of '-'OO.IKX)  lu'/vs.  Tlio  |>re-wmption  rifjlit,  iiannly,  tlio  rifilit  to  pin- 
flusc  from  the  Indiikns  »» »» ito\A  by  the  I  lulluiui  company  to  certain  f-L-ntU-nicn  in  Now 
Vork,  mid  ihcy  wnl*  M  IlichanJwn  as  nj/i'nt  to  i-ndinvour  to  in:iki'  .1  l)arj^aii(  witli  tin' 
Indiant.  The  miniiion  1  .  nocicty  of  \cw  York  appointcil  a  Mr.  Aic  \aii(ii'r  on  u  mission 
to  the  .Scnecs  Indians  to  endeavour  to  convert  thorn  to  Clirisliniiify  ;  and  tlii-so  Imo  g«-n- 
demon  a<ldre9se(l  thw»i  on  the  subject  of  tlicir  roipcative  ndssions,  uliout  tiic  snino  time. 
Tliecminiii  was  held  at  Hullalo,  in  W«y,  Isl  I,  and  was  attended  hy  Mr.  Granger,  agciil 
of llic  I'niteil  Stntos  for  Indian  altair<,  Mr.  Parribh,  Indian  interpreter,  nnd  Mr.  Tajlor, 
tbf  ngfiitof  the  society  of  friends,  for  improving  the  condition  of  the  Indians. 

lied  Jacket,  who  is  called  by  the  Indians  Saf!U-i/u-wJint/n,  uhicli  signifies  Keeper 
miiki',  in  answer  to  Mr.  l{ichard«on,  spoke  m  ft)llo'vs : 

"  llriUhir !  We  oi)ened  our  ears  to  the  talk  you  lately  del ivereil  to  us,  at  our  council 
Uri;.  In  doing  important  business  it  is  best  not  to  tell  lr>n^>  stories ;  l)ut  to  come  to  it  in 
» fi'v»  wards.  We,  therefore,  shall  not  repeat  your  talk,  which  is  frt^-h  in  our  minds.  Wi- 
tiwe well  considered  it,  and  the  advantages  and  disadvantij^cs  of  your  DU'ers.  We  ri-- 
iliicst  your  attention  to  our  answer,  which  is  not  from  the  speaker  aluno.  but  from  all  tlio 
sichvHiHand  chiefs  now  around  our  council  (Ire. 

"  Brnthir !  We  know  that  great  men,  as  well  as  great  nations,  havinj^  dillVrent  inte- 
mtii, have  different  minds,  and  do  not  see  the  same  subject  in  the  same  light — but  ue 
lope  (lur  answer  will  be  agreeable  to  you  and  to  your  etiiployers. 

"Ilrothcr;  Your  application  for  the  purchase  of  our  lands,  is  to  our  minds  very  ex- 
traordinary. It  has  been  made  in  a  crooked  manner ;  you  have  not  walked  in  the  straight 
pith  puinted  out  by  the  great  council  of  your  nation.  Y'ou  ha\e  no  writings  from  our 
great  father  the  president. 

"  Brother ;  In  making  up  otir  minds,  we  have  looked  back,  and  remembered  how  tho 
Yorkers  purchased  our  lands  in  former  times.  They  bought  them  piece  after  piece  for 
I  little  money  paid  to  a  few  men  in  ournatien,  and  not  to  all  our  brethren;  our  plant- 
ing and  hunting  grounds  have  become  very  small,  and  if  we  sell  these,  we  know  not  w  here 
tuspreail  our  blankets. 

"  Brnther  ,•  You  tell  us  your  employers  have  purchased  of  the  council  of  Yorkers  n 
right  to  buy  our  lands.  We  do  not  understand  how  this  can  be  ;  the  lands  do  not  beloug 
to  the  Yorkers;  they  are  ours,  and  were  given  to  us  by  the  Great  .Spirit. 

"  Brother ;  We  think  it  strange  that  you  should  jump  over  the  lands  of  otir  brethren 
in  tlie  east,  to  come  to  our  council  fire  so  far  off,  to  get  our  lands.  When  we  sold  our 
Ijndsin  the  east  to  the  white  people,  we  determined  never  to  sell  those  we  kejif,  which 
are  as  small  as  we  can  live  comfort4d)ly  on. 

"BrothiT;  Y'ou  want  us  to  travel  with  you,  and  look  for  other  !;i'iil-;.  If  ve  should 
til  our  lands  and  move  off"  into  a  distant  country,  towards  tho  seitinjj  sun — we  should 
W  looked  upon  in  the  country  to  which  we  go  as  foreigners  and  strangeis,  and  be  ilesjjiscd 
livlhcred  as  well  as  the  white  men,  and  we  should  soon  be  surrounded  by  the  wliite 
men,  who  will  there  also  kill  our  game,  come  upon  our  lands  and  try  to  j;jt  tlicm 
1  from  us. 

'•  Brnihvr  :  We  are  determined  not  to  sell  otir  lands  bit  to  continijc  on  tlu^m.  M\« 
lie  them  ;  they  are  fruitful,  and  produce  us  corn  in  abundance,  for  the  sw^'inrt  of  I'-if 
*omen  and  children,  and  grass  and  herbs  for  our  cattle. 


488 


TRAVKLS    IN 


"  lirollur I  At  llic  treaties  la-Id  (or  tlie  piirclmsc  of  our  lands,  tlic  wliita  men,  with 
ftwect  voii'CH  aiul  smiling  t'liccs,  told  us  they  IovlhI  us,  and  that  tlicy  would  not  rlicat  \\\ 
iiut  that  Uie  king's  cliildron  on  the  other  side  of  the  lake  would  cheat  us.  When  wi-iro 
on  the  other  side  of  the  lake,  the  king's  diildren  tell  us  your  people  will  ihcut  l^;  but 
witliMveet  voices  and  smiling  faces  assure  us  of  their  love,  and  that  they  will  not  diiaf 
lis.  'I'bese  tilings  puzzle  our  heiuls  and  we  believe  tliatthe  Indians  must  take  tare  of 
themselves,  and  not  trust  cither  in  yuur  people  or  in  the  king's  children. 

"  lirolhcr;  At  a  late  council  we  requested  our  agents  to  tell  you  that  wc  would 
not  sell  our  lands,  and  wc  think  you  have  not  spoken  to  our  agents,  or  they  wauld 
have  informetl  you  sa,   and  we  should  nut  have  met  you  at  oiir  council  fire  at  this  time. 

"Brother;  The  white  people  buy  and  sell  false  rij^hts  to  our  lands.  Your «mploycn 
have,  you  say,  paid  a  great  price  fur  oieir  right:  they  must  have  plenty  of  money,  to 
«pend  it  in  buying  false  rights  to  lands  lielonging  to  Indians.  The  loss  of  it  will  nnt 
hurt  tliem,  but  our  lands  arc  of  great  value  to  us,  and  wc  wish  you  to  go  back  with 
your  talk  to  your  employers,  and  to  tell  them  and  the  Yorkers,  that  tliey  have  no  right 
to  buy  and  sell  false  rights  to  our  laiidv. 

"  Urot/icr :  We  hope  you  clearly  understand  the  words  we  have  have  spoken.  Thh 
?s  all  we  have  to  say." 

lu  answer  to  IVIr.  Alexander,   Red  Jacket  addressed  himself  thus  : 

"Brother;  We  listened  to  the  talk  you  delivered  tons  from  the  council  of  black 
•oats*  in  New  York.  Wc  have  fully  considered  your  talk,  and  the  offers  you  lia\e 
miule  us ;  we  perfectly  understand  them,  and  we  return  an  answer,  which  wc  wisli 
you  also  to  understand.  In  making  up  our  minds  we  hare  looked  back,  and  remeni- 
bered  what  has  been  done  in  our  days,  and  what  our  fathers  have  told  us  was  dene  in 
old  times. 

"  Brother;  Great  numbers  of  black  coats  have  been  amongst  the  Indians,  and  with 
tweet  voices,  and  smiling  faces,  have  oflered  to  teach  them  the  religion  of  the  wbitr 
people.  Our  brethren  in  the  east  listened  to  the  black  coats — turned  from  the  religion 
of  their  fathers,  and  took  up  the  religion  of  the  white  people.  What  good  lias  it  I 
done  them?  Are  they  more  happy  and  more  friendly  ono  to  another  than  we  arc? 
No,  brother,  they  are  a  divided  people — wc  are  united  ;  they  quarrel  about  religion— 
we  live  in  love  and  friendship ;  tliey  drink  strong  water,  have  learned  how  tu  cheat, 
and  to  practise  all  the  vices  of  the  white  men,  (which  disgrace  Indians,)  without  imita- 
ting the  virtues  of  the  white  men.  Brother,  if  you  are  our  welUwisher,  keep  away,  | 
and  do  not  disturb  us. 

"  Brother;  We  do  not  worship  the  Great  Spirit  as  the  white  men  do,  but  we  be- 
lieve that  forms  of  worship  are  indiH'orent  to  t',  ■  Great  Spirit — it  is  the  oU'ering  oil 
«  sincere  heart  that  plciises  him  ;  and  wc  worship  him  in  this  manner.  According  to  I 
your  religion,  wcmust  believe  in  a  Fatlier  and  a  Son,  or  wc  will  not  be  happy  here- 1 
-afW.  We  have  always  believed  m  a  Fatlier,  and  we  worsiiip  him,  as  we  were  taught! 
*~.  r  our  fatlicrs.  Y'our  book  says  the  Son  was  sent  on  earth  by  the  Father — did  all  tliej 
jieople  who  saw  the  Son  believe  in  him  ?  No,  they  did  not,  and  the  consequences  mutt  I 
be  known  to  you,,  if  you  have  read  the    book. 

"Brother;  You  wish  to  change  our  religion  for  yours  :  we  \ike  our  religiwi,  and  J 
do  not  want  onotlier.  Our  friends  (pointing  to  Mr.  Granger,  ^Ir.  Parrihli,  and  Mr! 
Taylor)  do  os  great  good — tliey  counsel  us  in  our  troubles— and  instruct  us  fauw  w| 


The  aipellution  jiiven  ta  clergymen  by  the  InJiimih 


UPPER    CANADA. 


480 


Ji 


CHAPTER  XCVI.      ' 

fAdtk  Rocky — Upper  Canodciy — C/n'ppa'vaai/y — Falls  of  Niagara. 

October  28tli.  The  wcatUcr  being  dear  and  nqreoahlo,  1 
left  Buffalo  at  12  o'clock,  and  travelled  in  a  north  west  dircrtion) 
by  a  very  good  road,  about  2  miles  and  a  half,  when  I  descend- 
ed a  steep  bank  to  l31ack  Rock.  There  is  a  considerable  scille- 
ment  here  along  the  side  of  the  river,  and  umny  goml  stone  houses 
have  been  recently  built.  There  is  a  considerable  settlement  here 
along  the  side  of  the  river,  and  many  good  stone  houses  have 
been  recently  built  The  river,  which  is  about  a  mile  broad,  is- 
sues from  the  lake  as  clear  as  crystal,  and  runs  along  a  hard  stony 
bottom  with  a  majestic  current.  A  considerable  settlement  is  on 
the  British  side,  opposite  to  Black  Rock;  and  Fort  Erie  is  hand- 
somely situated  about  a  mile  above.  There  is  a  ferry  at  this 
place,  and  a  great  intercourse  between  the  two  sides  of  the  river. 
From  the  middle  of  the  river  there  is  an  elegant  view  up  the 
lake;  and,  at  the  time  I  crossed,  I  saw  several  vessels  at  anchor, 
aiid  one  or  two  at  a  wharf  a  little  above  Black  Rock,  wliich  is 
found  to  be  rather  an  inconvenient  station,  on  account  of  the  ra- 
pidcurrcnt.      .       .    vm.>  ,„;  ■   -.^  ...,>• 

On  reaching  the  Canada  shore,  the  first  indication  of  being  in 
a  different  dominion  was  the  red  coats  of  some  British  soldiers, 
who  were  stationed  in  a  small  house  by  the  way  side.  I  rode  up 
and  conversed  with  them.  They  told  me  they  belonged  to  the 
*Ist  regiment,  and  were  stationetl  at  that  place  to  keep  a  look 
^\.  ^^  after  the  billies  "  who  were  sometimes  inclined  to  make  a 
run  to  the  American  side.  I  thought  from  their  language  they 
were  Scotsmen,  but  they  told  mc  they  were  from  the  north  of 
England.         .         ,.        "  .    .  .-.^.  ..    ,  .. 

The  road  proceeds  along  the  bank  of  the  river,  and  is  elevated 
e  the  water  seven  or  eight  feet.  On  the  British  side  there 
are  rich  settlements,  all  the  way  down,  and  I  learned  that  the 

Inake  ourselves  comfortable.  Our  friends  the  quakcrs  do  more  than  this — they  givo 
I B  ploughs,  and  show  us  how  to  use  them.  They  tell  us  we  are  accountable  beings, 
I  but  do  not  say  we  must  change  our  religion.     Wc  are  fiatisBed  with  what  they  do. 

"Srother;  For  these  reasons  we  cannot  receive  your  offers — we  have  other  things  to 
ho>  and  beg  you  to  make  your  mind  easy,  and  not  trouble  us,  lest  our  heads  shoi<ld 
[t*  t«o  much  loaded,  and  by  and  by  barst." 

62 


'i 


■  ilU 


V.lvl 


X  m ' 


of.  '■ 


i 


490  TRAVELS  rs 

inhabitants  were  cliieflj  Germans,  from  Pennsylvania.  On  the 
American  side  there  are  very  few  settlements,  but  they  have  com- 
racnced,  ami  it  is  supposed  they  will  go  on  very  rapidly.  The 
liver  increases  in  breadth  as  it  proceeds  downward j  and,  aboiii 
five  miles  from  the  ferry,  it  branches  off  into  two  divisions,  em- 
bodying Grand  Island,  containing  about  24,000  acres  of  rich  land, 
on  which  the  Indian  claim  is  not  yet  extinct,  and  of  which  the 
state  of  New  York  has  the  pre-emption  right-  Below  this  is  Navy 
Island,  where  the  river  again  unites,  artd  forms  a  spacious  baj 
« jJU-ards  of  two  miles  broad.  Near  the  middle  of  this  bay  Chippa- 
way  creek  falls  into  the  river,  and  Chippaway  village  is  situated 
on  both  sides  of  the  crcek^  close  by  its  outlet.  I  heard  the  sound 
of  the  falls  about  four  or  five  miles  above  this  place,  and  I  could 
tlistinctly  see  the  spray,  rising  like  a  cloud,  and  hear  the  wateri 
roaring  with  a  continued  noise,  like!  distant  thunder.  It  was  near 
sun-set  when  I  arrived  at  Chippaway,  but  I  could  not  sleep  be- 
fore I  enjoyed  the  sight  of  this  astonishing  cataract  j  so,  after  be- 
speaking lodgings  at  the  tavern,  I  proceeded  towards  it. 

Chippaway  creek  is  a  black  muddy  stream,  and  (he  river  ri'tis 
Iiere  with  great  velocity,  which  throws  all  the  waters  of  the  creek 
towards  the  land ;  and  they  run   along  the  bank,  forming  a  re- 1 
niarkable  contrast  with  the  adjoining  pure  water.    The  bed  of  the  ] 
river  now  recedes  with  a  declivity  that  lowers  the  water  about  SO 
feet  in  less  than  a  mile  distance,    and  its  motion  is  accelerated  to 
the  velocity  of  12  or  14  miles  an  hour.     Here  a  small  part  of  the  j 
river,  consisting  principally  of  the  waters  of  Chippaway  creek, 
parts  with  the  main  stream,  and  winds  between  a  small  low  island 
and  a  lofty  bank,  round  which  the  road  turns.    On  reaching  the 
lower  end  of  the  island,  the  rapids  appear  in  full  view;  and  an 
astonishing  view  it  is,  to  behold  ft  sheet  of  water^   nearly  a  mile 
broad,  and   very  deep,  tossing  and  tumbling  among  rocks  and 
precipices  for  nearly  half  a  mile,  during  which  it  falls  52  feet, 
when  it  apparently  sinks  below  the  surface  of  the  earth,  and| 
•tludes  your  view. 

The  banks  here  seem  to  rise  a  little ;  the  country  is  pretty  fer* 
tile,  and  there  are  a  number  of  settlements.     Being  anxious  to  I 
see  the  grand  fall  before  it  became  dark,  I  hurried  on  as  fast  asj 
a  constant  desire  to  view  and  admire  the  rapids  would  allow  mc. 
Near  the  foot  of  the  small  low  island,  the  road  takes  a  circuilowj 
eours«  round  some  plantations,  and,  losing  the  view  of  the.  rapiJi^J 


UPPER  CANADA.  491 

ifords  a  little  time  for  meditation.  On  again  reaching  the  bank, 
the  whole  of  the  upper  part  of  the  falls  come  into  view,  which,  with 
the  rapids,  the  clouds  of  spray  that  constantly  rise  like  smoke,  and 
the  tremendous  roaring  of  the  water,  forms  a  scene  awfully  sub- 
lime.   My  eyes  were  rivetted  to  the  spot,  while  J  exclaimed 

"  These  are  thy  glorious  works,  Parent  of  good ! 
Almighty !  Thine  this  universal  frame. 

■  these  declare 
Thy  greatness  beyond  thought,  and  power  divine." 

I  moTed  forward  along  the  high  bank  nearly  half  a  mile,  in  which 
even'  point  presented  a  new  and  interesting  view  of  this  stupen- 
dous wonder  of  nature.  At  some  of  the  last  points  where  I  stood, 
I  was  right  in  front  of  the  whole  sheet  of  falling  water.  It  i& 
divided  into  two  parts  by  an  island,  but  the  great  vcjlume  is  on 
the  Canada  side,  and  falls  with  a  tremendous  velocity,  Lrming  a 
curve,  and  thence  called  the  horse-shoe  fall.  That  on  the  A- 
merican  side  falls  with  a  regular  cascade,  and  a  fragment  of  the 
island  forms  a  comparatively  very  small  fall  between  them.  Hav- 
ing gazed  upon  this  scene  till  near  dark,  |  returned  to  Chippaway, 
viewing  the  rapids  with  delight,  as  I  passed  them  ^  and,  looking 
through  this  grand  scene  to  its  ^Imi^hty  Author| 

"  I  blessed  the  wonder-working  God  of  heaven." 

October  29th.  Having  taken  a  general  view  of  the  falls  on  the 
preceding  evening,  I  devoted  this  day  to  a  more  close  inspection, 
and  having  procured  a  Scotsman,  of  the  name  of  M*Intosh,  for 
my  guide,  we  set  out  together.  About  a  mile  and  a  half  below 
Chippaway,  we  descended  from  the  high  bank  to  the  side  of  the 
river,  and  came  so  close  to  the  rapids,  that  I  could  wash  my 
haads  in  them.  The  view  up  the  river  was  very  grand,  but  it 
here  loses  much  of  the  effect  by  being  so  close  upon  it.  There 
are  several  mills  close  upon  the  river  side,  supplied  by  water  from 
the  rapids.  We  ascended  to  the  high  bank,  where  I  left  my 
horse,  and  my  guide  conducted  me  to  the  Table  rock,  close  by  the 
great  fall,  which  we  approached  so  near,  that  I  washed  my  hands 
in  the  water  two  or  three  yards  above  the  awful  precipice.  The 
view  here  is  very  striking,  but  the  same  remark  applies  as  at  the 
rapids ;  it  is  too  near  to  be  sublime.  The  Table  rock,  where 
we  stood)  is  part  of  tht;  platfbrni  from  which  the  river  makes  he 


ft-  i. 


4-    i   u 

u 

n 


^  f^ 


It 


^(■n 


'i 


H 


t*     »v 


<      f! 


492 


TRAVELS   IN 


grand  pitch.  It  is  172  feet  high;*  the  upper  part  is  about  20 
feet  thick,  and  projects  over  the  base  about  40  feet.  It  is  com. 
posed  of  very  hanl  limestone,  mixed  with  flint.  It  is  checquered, 
to  the  extent  of  lialf  an  acre,  by  innumerable  fissures,  some  of 
thcni  so  large  that  I  could  thrust  down  «iy  arm — ti  sure  indication 
of  its  decay;  and  probably,  in  a  few  years,  the  whole  of  this  rod, 
with  the  numerous  memorials  of  the  visitors  carved  on  it,  will  be 
precipitated  to  the  abyss  below. 

We  again  ascended  the  high  bank,  and  going  round  by  a  cir- 
cuit of  nearly  two  miles,  we  reached  the  bank  of  the  river,  half  a 
mile  below  the  falls,  where  there  is  a,  descent  by  a  ladder  45  feet 
long  :f  after  which  we  had  to  travel  over  rocky  precipices,  some 
of  them  very  rough,  about  half  a  mile.  The  descent  over  these 
rocks  to  the  margin  of  the  river  is  about  140  feet,  and  as  the 
path  rises  and  falls  alternately,  the  journey  is  very  fatiguing ; 
but  the  traveller  is  amply  repaid  by  the  awful  grandeur  of  the 
amazing  fall  of  water  in  front  of  him,  and  the  view  of  the  troubled 
water  below,  which  boils,  and  foams,  and  whirls,  in  all  directions, 
as  if  it  were  stunned  by  the  dreadful  fall  j  when  at  length,  collect- 
ing its  forces  about  half  a  mile  below,  it  hurries  away  between 
the  high  perpendicular  banks  with  which  it  is  hemmed  in,  in 
rapid  and  awful  majesty. 

As  we  approached  the  foot  of  the  fall,  the  spray  began  to  de- 
scend upon  us  like  a  shower  of  rain,  and  we  had  to  pass  a  jutting 
})recipice,  against  which  it  dashed  with  great  violence,  and  fell 
down  upon  us  in  such  toyrents,  that  we  were  wet  to  the  skin  in  an 
instant. 

We  now  got  below  the  awful  cavity  formed  by  the  Table  rock, 
and  I  approached  so  near  the  edge  of  the  falling  mass,  |hat  I 
could  see  distinctly  behind  it  a  considerable  way,  till  the  view  was 
terminated  in  utter  darkness.  The  scenery  overhead  was  truly 
terrific,  more  especially  when  associated  with  the  idea,  that  the 

;  *  TIic  fall  has  been  variously  represented,  but  in  most  of  the  late  gcographica] 
works,  it  has  been  estimated  at  157  feet.  Tlie  guide  told  me  it  was  170,  and  I  have 
since  conversed  with  a  gentleman  who  plummed  it  from  tlie  Table  rock,  and  found  it 
to  be  172.  I  saw  the  line  in  his  possession,  with  the  marks  on  it,  and  am  convinced 
that  the  accuracy  of  this  measurement  may  be  relied  on. 

■)•  Until  lately,  the  descent  was  very  difficult,  for  want  of  a  good  ladder.  Tliat  de- 
fect has  now  been  supplied  by  the  generosity  of  a  lady  from  Rhode  Island,  who  erect- 
rd  an  elegant  ladder  with  side  rails.  The  guide  mentioned  her  name,  but  I  have  for- 
got it.     I  beg  leave,  however,  to  tender  Uie  fair  donor  my  portion  of  the  public  tlianlt^ 


UPPEn   CANADA.  493 

whole  of  these  hanging  rocks  will  at  some  period  fall  down  with  a 
tremendous  crash.  The  dreadful  agitation  of  the  falling  moss  of 
waters,  the  tremendous  noise,  and  the  shaking  of  the  rocks  around 
you,  add  to  the  awful  grandeur  of  this  terrific  scene.  I  laving  gaz- 
ed on  it  for  some  time,  my  senses  almost  overpowered  with  won- 
der, we  retired,  but  I  often  stopped  by  the  way  to  behold  and 
admire ;  and  reaching  the  top  of  the  ladder  a  little  before  sun-set, 
the  view  was  finished  by  the  exhibition  of  a  brilliant  rainbow, 
elegantly  painted  in  the  voluminous  clouds  of  rising  spray. 


CHAPTER  XCVII. 


Upper  Canada, — Qjtteenstffwn, — Lewistffwn. 

There  is  a  noWe  trait  in  the  character  of  the  mass  of  the  A- 
merican  people,  that  of  independence.  They  place  themselves  on 
an  equal  footing  with  whoever  they  come  in  contact  with.  If  they 
do  any  thing  for  you,  they  will  have  their  price,  and  a  good  price 
too ;  but  it  is  not  customary  to  take  hire  in  a  sneaking  way ;  they 
generally  ask  their  price  without  leaving  it  to  the  generosity  of  the 
employer. 

Habits  of  subserviency,  resulting,  no  doubt,  from  the  opera- 
tion of  the  feudal  system,  are  general  among  the  peasantry  of 
Europe,  and  they  appear  to  have  extended  to  Canada.  It  is  a 
common  thing,  I  find,  in  those  who  take  a  station  to  wait  upon 
travellers,  to  leave  the  payment  to  the  pleasure  of  the  company : 
tlie  practice  is  an  unpleasant  one  to  both  parties.  To  the  receiver 
it  operates  in  some  instances  to  prevent  him  from  getting  a  rea- 
sonable compensation  for  his  services,  and  in  others  he  will  get 
too  much.  To  the  payer  it  is  more  unpleasant,  because  it  sub- 
jects him  to  an  uncertainty  as  to  the  extent  of  the  compensation  of- 
fered. I  found  myself  in  that  unpleasant  situation  at  the  fall^. 
In  a  case  where  I  could  not  bring  the  person  whose  services  I 
had  engaged  to  a  tangible  point,  I  gave  what  I  considered  right, 
but  might  very  possibly  be  abused  for  not  giving  more  ;  that  being 
a  common  custom  with  those  kind  of  subservient  gentry,  who  de- 
pend on  the  pleasure  of  the  company. 

When  we  arrived  at  the  main  road,  I  felt  very  chilly,  after  my 
(lucking  below  the  falls ;  and  went,  accompanied  by  the  guide,  to 


<,,:i 


m'\} 


Wk 


mi' 


'%  ' 


494 


TRAVELS   IN 


a  Cnnadi'an  inn,  to  get  some  spirits.  A»  I  did  not  alight,  they 
brought  the  whiskey-bottle  and  a  glass,  depending,  of  course,  on 
the  pleasure  of  the  company.  I  drank  part  of  a  glass,  and  the 
guide  as  much  ;  in  all,  about  half  a  gill.  1  had  no  coin  loss  than 
a  quarter  of  a  dollar,  nnd  I  handed  it  to  the  host,  that  he  mi^ht 
satisfy  himself  out  of  it.  "Thank you,"  says  he,  very  delil)erately 
putting  the  quarter  of  a  dollar  in  his  pocket.  Had  it  been  a  whole 
dollar,  or  five  dollars,  it  would  have  gone  the  same  road;  for 
these  iiohat-ycm-please  folks  take  care  never  to  have  any  change 
about  them. 

I  now  rode  with  a  pretty  quick  pace  towards  Queenstown,  anj 
in  my  progress  was  overtaken  by  a  number  of  British  officers  and 
their  pnrtj*,  dashing  along,  some  of  them  in  gigs,  and  some  on 
horseback,  shouting  nnd  hallooing  at  a  great  rate.  They  appeared 
to  be  tipsey,  for  I  could  hear  them  menacing  and  insulting  the  in- 
habitants as  they  passed ;  and  at  the  first  house  I  came  to  I  stopped 
to  make  some  inquiries.  The  settler  was  one  of  the  **  poor  good 
Dutch,"  as  Cobbett  calls  them,  who  said  the  soldiers  were  a  little 
rude  sometimes,  but  it  was  a  very  good  government  for  uU  that. 

A  little  after  parting  with  the  Dutchman,  I  met  a  Yanhee  from 
"New  Hampshire,  and  he  tuned  his  pipe  to  another  key.  He  said 
he  had  seen  enough  of  the  government  of  Upper  Canada.  What 
I  had  observed  was  but  a  small  sample  of  the  insolence  of 
the  soldiery.  He  represented  every  thing  as  under  military 
controul,  and,  whenever  any,  man  chose  to  take  a  mean  re- 
venge of  his  neighbour,  he  had  no  more  to  do  but  represent  him 
to  the  military  as  a  disloyal  man,  and  they  would  take  care  of  him. 
He  said  many  who  had  committed  no  crime  whatever,  had  been 
seized  in  this  way; — some  were  imprisoned,  and  kept  for  months  in 
jail,  without  knowing  their  crime  or  their  accuser ;  others  were  sent 
off  to  Lower  Canada,  and  some  even  to  Britain,  to  be  tried.  As 
for  the  liberty  of  the  press,  there  was  no  such  thing ;  and  the  pride 
and  insolence  of  the  ruling  powers  were  excessive.  He  was  only 
to  remain  here  till  his  affairs  were  settled,  when  he  meant  to  move 
off  to  the  state  of  Ohio.* 


*  The  baugbtiness  and  pride  of  some  of  the  officers  here  may  be  illustrated  by  m 
anecdote.  A  gentleman  of  respectability  told  me  that  he  was  transacting  some  busi- 
aess  at  Newark,  near  Fort  George;  and  having  some  boatmen  to  pay,  it  was  necessary 
to  procure  change  of  a  dollar.  On  making  enquiry  where  it  could  be  done,  he  wo 
dirvctcd  to  a  house,  when  he  knocked  at  the  door,  and  a  loud  voice  desired  him  to  cob4 


ia    On  entering  the 
ing.hesaid,  "Would 
They«ung  ma?;  surve 
««>pt,  and  an  imperii 
gone  a  few  yards  fron 
Iwk.    Ou  his  return, 
«loue,  he  proceeded  th 
I  presume,  "answered 
you  know,  that  when 
me  with  that  respect  ^ 
ni«n  again  retired,  am 
tativc  of  royalty,  he  c« 
<7  tpiiit  before  a  fail' 


«KW  tORic.  495 

t  descended  a  considerable  hill,  and  readied  Qucenstown  by 
tnoon-light,  where  getting  a  passage  across  the  river,  I  took  up 
my  lodgings  for  the  night  at  Lcwistown. 

October  30.  The  morning  was  cloudy  and  warm,  and  I  set 
out  at  11  o'clock  to  see  the  banks  of  Lake  Ontario.  A  gentleman 
in  Lexington,  Kentucky,  had  given  me  a  letter  of  introduction  to 
a  Mr.  Miller,  in  this  neighbourhood.  I  made  a  call  by  the  way, 
gnd  who  should  I  find  but  the  very  gentleman  mentioned  by  my 
garrulous  old  friend,  the  Dundee  plasterer,  page  235.  1  found 
Ml'.  Miller  busy  in  the  fields,  and  5  sons  along  with  him,  a  great 
portion  in  this  country.  He  has  a  beautiful  situation,  on  the  bunks 
of  Niagara  rivCT,  where  he  told  me  he  had  bought  1000  acres  of 
land  from  the  state,  at  about  3  dollars  per  acre ;  and  such  liad 
been  the  rapid  improvement  of  ihese  back  woods,  that  he  could 
now  sell  it  for  9  dollars  per  acre.  In  less  than  12  years,  it  will 
probably  be  worth  30  dollars.  Mrs.  Miller  and  all  the  family  had 
joined  him  in  this  retreat.  They  have  every  thing  within  them- 
selves to  make  them  comfortable,  and  he  can  give  each  of  his  sons 
a  fartn  of  200  acres  of  as  good  land  as  any  within  20  miles  of  the 
bonnet  hill  of  Dundee.  Mark  that,  Mr.  Plaistercr  I  and  tell  me  a 
place  in  the  world  where  the  like  o^  that  can  be  obtained  in  a  few 
years  labour — the  back  woods  of  America  excepted.  Mr,  Miller 
and  I  agreed  to  meet  iu  the  evening,  and  I  pursued  my  way  to 
Lake  Ontario. 

The  road  is  very  good,  running  close  by  the  bank  of  the  river, 
and  there  are  a  number  of  settlements  by  the  way.  1  learned  that 
a  reservation  of  a  mile  in  breadth  along  the  bank  of  the  river, 
from  Black  Rock  to  Lake  Ontario,  had  belonged  to  the  state  of 


'iJi 


in.  On  entering  the  apartment,  he  saw  a  young  officer  sharing  himself,  whom  accost- 
ing, he  said,  "  Would  you  have  the  goodness  to  favour  me  with  the  change  of  a  dollar  ?** 
They«ung  mavi  surveyed  him  from  head  to  foot,  and  tlien,  with  a  look  of  iiicfTublecon' 
tempt,  and  an  imperious  v*ice,  pronounced,  '■  No."  The  gentleman  retired,  and  had 
gone  a  few  yards  from  the  house,  when  the  officer  carae  to  the  door,  and  called  hint 
back.  On  his  return,  he  desired  him  to  come  in,  and  shut  the  door ;  which  having 
doue,  he  proceeded  thus:  "  Do  you  know,  sir,  who  I  am?"  "  An  officer  in  the  army, 
I  presume,'*  answered  the  odier.  "  Yes,"  added  he  with  an  oath,  "and  I  want  to  let 
jouknow,  that  when  you  presumed  I  would  change  a  dollar  for  you,  you  did  not  (rett 
me  with  that  respect  which  belongs  to  a  representative  of  his  majesty  !"  The  genle- 
man  again  retired,  and,  with  sentiments  of  indignant  contempt  fur  this  puny  repress  t. 
utivc  of  royalty,  he  couht  not  help  rcilcctiag  on  tho  words  of  the  wise  man,  "  A  baugii 
tj  tpitit  before  a  fatH" 


'iJ. 


I  f  ■ 


!,      '« 


496 


TKAVELS    IN 


New  York.  They  had  it  divided  into  convenient  lots,  nnd  sold 
by  public  sale  some  years  ago ;  by  which  judicious  plah  the  coun- 
try is  settling  up  so  rapidly,  that  in  less  than  20  years  the  whole 
cast  bank  of  the  river  will  probably  becultivated  like  a  garden. 

There  was  a  considerable  breeze  from  the  south  ;  but  when  I 
came  within  half  a  mile  of  the  shores  of  the  lake,  I  found  the  cur- 
rent of  air  to  proceed  from  the  water,  a  circumstance  very  common 
on  all  the  great  lakes,  and  which  proves  that  the  atmosphere  must 
be  wanner  on  them  than  on  the  adjoining  land. 

When  I  reached  the  lake  shore,  I  left  my  horse,  and  descended 
about  20  feet  to  the  beach ;  where  I  tasted  the  water,  and  found  it 
pure  and  good.  The  view  east  and  west  had  nearly  the  same  ap- 
pearance as  on  Lake  Erie ;  but  the  banks  are  not  so  lofty,  and  the 
beach,  being  composed  of  gravel  and  stones,  is  not  so  handsome. 

I  rode  a  little  way  to  the  eastward,  through  level  plains,  skirted 
with  oak  woods,  where  I  saw  several  cattle  and  sheep  grazing ;  and 
on  my  return  I  passed  over  a  level  plain,  above  half  a  mile  broad, 
and  quite  bare  of  trees,  to  Fort  Niagara,  the  American  garrison, 
situated  on  the  point  of  land  where  the  river  falls  into  the  lake. 

This  is  an  old  French  fort, with  antiquated  buildings,  and  the  works 
were  going  rapidly  to  decay*  It  was  then  garrisoned  by  a  company 
of  8 1  artillery-men;  but  1  was  informed  that  the  British  fort  on 
the  other  side,  being  more  elevated,  had  the  command  of  it,  and 
that  therefore  it  must  be  abandoned  in  case  of  a  war. 

The  view  from  this  place  is  very  elegant.  To  the  north  is  the  lake, 
with  York,  the  capital  of  Upper  Canada,  handsomely  situated  near 
the  west  end  of  it ;  to  the  north-west  is  the  outlet  of  the  river,  with 
the  bar  and  breakers ;  to  the  west,  Newark,  handsomely  situated  on 
the  west  side  of  the  river,  with  the  garrison  at  the  upper,  and  the 
light-house  at  the  lower  end  of  it.  The  river  is  about  half  a  mile 
broad,  and  the  water  perfectly  pure.  Its  course  is  nearly  north ;  but 
it  makes  a  small  bend  to  the  north-west  immediately  before  it  falls 
into  the  lake.  It  is  30  feet  deep,  and  runs  at  the  rate  of  about  3  miles 
an  hour,  from  which  we  may  calculate  the  discharge  of  water  to  be 
upwards  of  128  millions  of  gallons  per  minute ;  but  great  as  tlie 
(juantity  is,  it  is  only  about  a  forty-fifth  part  of  that  discharged  by 
the  Mississippi. 

There  are  two  bars  at  the  outlet.  The  water  on  the  outer  bar  i* 
24)  feet  deep,  on  the  inner  bar  about  18.  The  banks  are  from  20 
to  30  feet  high,  and  the  country  on  both  sides  perfectly  level.    Ta- 


MEW  YORK. 


497 


wards  the  south  the  view  of  the  river  is  very  splcnditli  and  is  beauti- 
fully terminated  by  the  highlands  about  Queenstown  and  Lewistown. 

The  west  bank  of  the  river  has  been  long  settled,  and  is  studded 
with  houses  all  the  way  between  Newark  and  Queenstown.  The 
east  bank  is  yet  but  partially  settled,  but  is  rapidly  filling  up. 
The  view  to  the  west,  on  the  banks  of  the  lake,  is  very  pleasing;  the 
banks  are  pretty  high,  are  well  settled,  and  said  to  be  fertile.  On 
the  east  bank  they  are  more  low  and  ^andy,  and  the  settlements 
very  thin. 

The  whole  country,  from  the  lake  to  the  highlands  above  Lewis- 
town  and  Queenstown,  which  may,  with  propriety,  be  termed  the 
table  land  of  Lake  Erie,  is  quite  level,  and  bears  evident  marks  of 
having  been,  at  no  very  remote  period,  the  bottom  of  Lake  Ontario, 
which  has  extended  a  considerable  way  up  the  ridge ;  and  it  is  very 
evident,  I  think,  that  a  great  change  will  yet  take  place  on  these 
lakes.  But  it  would  lead  me  to  too  wide  a  field  to  pursue  this  sub- 
ject; I  shall  therefore  only  remark  that  to  account  for  the  changes 
which  have  taken  place  here  we  have  no  occasion  to  conjure  up 
earthquakes,  or  volcanoes,  or  any  other  great  terrific  operation. 
The  whole  can  be  accounted  for  by  the  simple  yet  powerful  natural 
causes  every  day  in  active  operation.  "  The  constant  dropping  of 
water  weareth  away  stones ;"  and  the  natural  tendency  of  running 
waters  is  to  wear  down  their  beds  to  a  level  with  the  great  reservoir, 
the  ocean. 

It  was  my  intention  to  have  crossed  over  to  Newark,  in  Upper 
Canada,  and  to  have  rode  up  the  west  bank  of  the  river  to  Queens- 
town ;  but  the  wind  was  blowing  so  strong  that  1  could  not  cross ; 
to  I  collected  what  little  information  I  could  regarding  it,  and  re- 
vived to  return  the  way  I  came.  Before  leaving  this  place,  howe- 
ver, I  may  remark  that  town-making  is  at  present  very  fashionable 
in  the  United  Suites,  and  this  appears  a  beautiful  scite  for  a  town. 
The  public  ground  belonging  to  the  garrison  is  exactly  a  mile 
square,  and  is  perfectly  level,  with  an  elevation  of  30  feet  above  the 
river  and  lake,  both  of  which  abound  with  excellent  fish;  and  a  lit- 
I  tie  bay  opposite  the  garrison  makes  a  very  good  harbour.  But  it  is 
to  be  observed  that  no  town  can  flourish  without  commerce,  either 
foreign  or  domestic.  Foreign  commerce  has  been  overdone,  and 
commerciaLtowns  must  suffer  by  the  re-action.  Tlie  towns,  ther^ 
fore,  that  are  most  likely  to  increase,  for  some,  time  to  come,  arc 
such  as  are  situated  in  a  rich  country,  capable  of  being  thickly  set- 

63      ,     . 


■ 

»    1            ' ' 

.'■1 

1 

■  ■  , 

■ 

1- 

■     % 

i! 

i  •■';0|i^''i 


498 


BRITi;;n   POSSESSIONS. 


lied,  and  having  favourable  positions  for  the  increase  of  manufac. 
turcs.  Pittsburir,  Lexington,  in  Kentucky,  and  Zanesville,  in  0- 
hio,  may  be  cited  as  examples.  The  business  of  mere  buying  and 
selliiiy  is  in  some  degree  precarious;  because,  though  it  may  be  and 
is  often  convenient  to  society,  yet  it  is  not  absolutely  necessary.  It 
only  transfers  property,  it  adds  nothing  to  the  common  stock  ;  but 
the  men  who  raise  food,  and  build  houses;  and  make  clothiix;,  hold 
a  most  honourable  station  in  society,  because  their  labour  is  essenti- 
ally necessary.     \Vc  cannot  live  without  it. 

All  is  the  gift  of  iiuluhtry,  whate'er 
.  ,  •         •  ,     Exalts,  cinbelliiilies,  or  sweetens  lif& 


CHAPTER  XCVIII. 

Brithh possrssions^ — Nrivfoundlnnd^ — Cape  Breton, — Nova  Scotia,— 

Nexv  Bninswic/c, — Lower  Canada, — Upper  Canada. 
X  MENTIONED  in  the  last  chapter  that  I  procured  what  intelli- 
gence I  could  regarding  Newark.  On  my  return  to  Lewistown  I 
procured  a  great  deal  of  intelligence  regarding  Canada  generally; 
and  before  quitting  this  part  of  the  country  I  shall  take  a  short 
review  of 

THE  BRITISH  POSSESSIONS  IN  NORTH  AMERICA, 

Selecting  the  most  material  facts  from  works  of  British  authority. 

Mr.  Pinkerton  remarks  that  "  those  parts  of  North  America 
which  still  belong  to  Britain  are  extensive,  and  of  considerable  im- 
portance, though  so  thinly  peopled,  and  in  such  a  disadvantageous 
climate,  that  they  sink  into  insignificance  when  compared  with  the 
great  and  flourishing  territories  of  the  United  States.  The  inhabit- 
ants of  the  states  have  been  estimated  at  five  millions  (they  are  now  j 
upwards  of  seven ;)  while  those  of  the  British  possessions  scarcely 
excred  200,000  souls,*- and  these  chiefly  French  and  natives." 
•  The  *3ritish  lay  claim  to  a  vast  extent  of  territory,  comprehending  I 
from  the  boundary  of  the  United  States  to  the  north  pole,  and  across 
the  continent  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  ocean ;  but  as  there  are 
no  settlements  except  towards  the  St.  Lawrence,  it  is  imneccssary  to 
take  a  view  of  any  other  than  those  near  that  river,  compreheiuling 

*   See  tho  table  at  the  end  (^this  chapter. 


BRITISH   POSSiniOMS. 


499 


Upper  and  Lower  Cuimdn,  New  Brunswick,  Nova  Scotia,  Cupc  Bre- 
ton, and  i^'ewfuuiullnnd.  The  most  important  of  these  are  the  C<i- 
nailiw,  and  of  these  Upi)cr  Canada  is  an  object  of  tlic  greatest  im- 
portance to  the  United  States,  on  account  of  the  great  extent  to 
which  it  stretches  along  the  American  territory.  I  ahull  therefore 
confine  my  account  chiefly  to  this  province,  previous  to  which  I  siiull 
just  glance  at  the  others. 

Newfoundland  is  an  island  situated  on  the  east  side  of  the  Gulf  of 
St.  Lawrence,  between  north  latitude  4G°  50'  and  51°  50',  and  be- 
tween 52°  20'  and  59"  12'  west  longitude  fr(»m  London.  It  is  34-7 
miles  long,  and  about  300  broad ;  but  both  length  and  breadth  arc 
very  unequal.  It  is  subject  to  dreadful  storms,  und  is  almost  con- 
stantly enveloped  in  fogs,  clouds,  and  darkness ;  and  having  a  bar- 
ren sjil,  liie  inhabitants  are  few,  and  chiefly  devoted  to  the  fisheries. 
The  chief  luwns  are  St.  John,  Placentia,  and  Bonavista. 

Cape  Breton  is  situated  between  Newfoundland  and  Nova  Scotia, 
and  is  divided  from  the  latter  by  a  very  narrow  strait.  It  is  about 
100  miles  long  by  30  broad.  Some  beds  of  valuable  coal  have  been 
found,  and  the  island  is  well  watered  with  small  streams ;  but  the 
soil  is  a  mere  moss,  and  unfit  for  cultivation.  The  climate  is  cold 
and  foggy.  The  chief  trade  is  in  furs  and  the  produce  of  the  fihh- 
eries.    The  chief  towns  arc  Sidney  and  Louisburg. 

Nova  Scotia  is  a  considerable  peninsulsi,  lying  between  43**  40 
and  45**  50'  north  latitude,  and  is  about  300  miles  long,  by  about 
80  of  medial  breadth.  The  country  .'dong  the  coast  is  rugged  and 
stony ;  but  there  are  some  good  spots  of  land  upon  the  rivers  in  the 
interior  of  the  country  ;  and  there  are  valuable  mines  of  coal,  lime- 
stone, plaster  of  Paris,  and  iron  ore.  This  province  is  settled  by 
French,  New  England,  and  British  people.  Halifax  is  the  capital, 
and  contains  about  ]  5,000  inhabitants. 

The  island  of  St.  John,  60  miles  long,  and  30  broad,  lies  to  the 
north  of  Nova  Scotia,  and  has  some  good  soil,  and  several  riversi 
It  contains  about  5000  inhabitants. 

New  Brunswick  extends  from  Nova  Scotia  to  Canada,  and  from 
the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  to  the  District  of  Maine. 

There  are  several  rivers  in  this  province,  of  which  the  chief  is  St. 
John's,  running  a  course  of  about  400  miles,  and  there  is  some 
good  land  on  their  banks.  St.  John's,  containing  about  100  inha- 
bitants, is  the  capital.  The  whole  of  the  provinces  of  New  Bruns- 
wick, Nova  Scotia,  and  settlements  attached  to  them,  are  computed 
to  contain  about  50,000  inhabitants. 


500 


BRITISH    POSSESSIONS. 


Lower  Canada  lies  on  both  sides  of  the  ritcr  St.  Lawrence,  be- 
tween  45**  ond  SS"  north  latitude,  ond  extends  westward  to  tlic  ri* 
ver  Utawtts,  on  the  west  side  of  Montreal.  A  considerable  part  of 
it  borders  on  the  district  of  Maine,  SO  miles  on  new  Hampshire, 
95  on  Vermont,  and  35  on  New  York. 

The  face  of  the  country  is  rather  level,  and  contains  a  f^reat  dciil 
of  good  soil,  producing  grass,  grain,  and  tobacco  in  abundance. 
The  settlements  extend  mostly  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  the 
greater  part  of  the  country  is  covered  with  wood,  which  is  rather 
of  a  small  growth,  except  in  the  meadows,  where  the  trees  arc  large. 

The  climate  is  very  severe,  and  the  heat  and  cold  go  to  greot  ex- 
tremes, and  sometimes  in  very  rapid  succession.  The  thermome- 
ter rises  in  summer  to  98",  and  in  winter  the  mercury  freezes.  The 
snow  begins  to  fall  in  November,  and  continues  on  the  ground  till 
^lay,  when  the  summer  heat  is  almost  instantaneous.  In  January 
and  February  the  frost  is  so  intense  that  there  is  danger  of  being 
frost-bitten,  and  to  guard  against  it  the  in labitants  cover  the  whole 
body  with  furs,  except  the  eyes  and  nose. 

The  population  is  computed  at  about  1 30,000 ;  and  they  have  a 
very  considerable  trade,  which  chiefly  centres  in  the  two  great  Ca- 
nadian towns,  Quebec  and  Montreal. 

Quebec  is  the  capital,  and  stands  on  a  rock,  on  the  north  side  of 
the  St.  Lawrence,  320  miles  from  the  sea.  The  town  is  well  forti- 
fied, being  considered  almost  impregnable.  There  is  sufficient  depth 
of  water  to  float  vessels  of  any  burden  to  Quebec.  The  inhabitants 
arc  suppo*.ed  to  be  above  10,000,  of  whom  two- thirds  are  of  French 
extraction. 

Montreal  is  situated  on  an  island  in  the  St.  Lawrence,  170  miles 
above  Quebec;  «nd  is  a  handsome  town,  containing  about  6000 
inliabitantH. 

A  very  considerable  portion  of  the  trade  of  the  river,  and  these 
towns,  is  derived  from  Upper  Canada  and  the  United  States ;  and 
the  exports,  chiefly  of  grain,  flour,  provisions,  potash,  timber,  naval 
stores,  furs,  &c.  have  of  late  been  very  great.  The  imports  are  chief- 
ly British  goods,  with  which  the  inhabitants  contrive  to  supply  a 
considerable  part  of  the  United  States,  by  smuggling ;  and  the  A- 
mericans,  in  return,  smuggle  tea,  coffee,  &c.  to  the  Canadians. 

Learning  is  at  a  low  ebb.  Mr.  Pinkerton  says  "  the  French  wo- 
men in  Canada  can  generally  read  and  write,  and  are  thus  superior 
to  the  men ;  but  both  are  sunk  in  ignorance  and  superstition :  and 
ihc  English  language  is  confined  to  the  few  British  settlers," 


BRITISH    POSSESSIONS. 


501 


Upper  Canada  extends  from  Lower  Canada  to  the  lake  of 
Winnipeg,  in  long.  97°,  and  comprehends  un  immense  extent 
and  variety  of  territory,  of  whicli  that  portion  stretching  between 
the  great  lakes,  and  along  the  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  is  the 
best ;  and  taken  an  a  whole,  it  is  superior  to  any  other  purt  of  the 
British  possessions  in  North  America. 

The  settlements  arc  chiefly  confined  to  the  banks  of  the  river 
and  lakes,  and  present  a  most  extensive,  and  in  sohic  places  a 
tliickly  settled  frontier  to  the  United  States.  About  180 
miles  border  on  the  state  of  New  York,  and  the  lukcs  opposite  to 
it;  45  on  Lake  Eric  opposite  the  state  of  Pennsylvania;  150  op- 
posite the  state  of  Ohio  ;  and  300  on  the  rivers  and  lakes  opposite 
the  Michigan  Territory. 

The  inhabitants  are  composed  of  French,  English,  and  Scot- 
tish, and  a  great  many  have  emigrated  from  the  United  States 
within  these  last  20  years,  principally  of  Dutch  and  German  ex- 
traction. The  whole  of  the  inhabitants  have  been  estimated  at 
40,000,  but  they  are  probably  double  that  number,  and  us  this 
district  enjoys  a  pretty  mild  climate,  and  good  soil,  especially  a- 
long  the  lakes,  they  are  likely  to  increase. 

York,  the  capital,  is  a  small  pleasant  town,  containing  a  good 
many  frame  houses ;  but  the  land  is  rather  low  and  unhealthy  in 
its  neighbourhood. 

Newark,  already  noticed,  contains  about  500  inhabitants,  and 
many  of  the  buildings  are  handsome,  being  composed  of  brick 
and  stone.  It  has  2  churches,  a  jail,  and  academy ;  6  taverns, 
and  about  20  dry-goods  stores ;  where  every  article  can  be  had  on 
as  good  terms  as  in  Montreal.  The  fort  here  is  garrisoned  with 
500  men,  of  the  41st  regiment;  and  the  remainder  of  the  regi- 
ment are  distributed  along  the  banks  of  the  lake. 

Queenstown  contains  about  300  inhabitants.  It  has  six  stores 
and  several  taverns,  and  a  considerable  trade  along  the  lakes. 

Kingstown,  at  the  east  end  of  lake  Ontario,  is  a  handsome  lit- 
tle place,  and  the  farmers  in  its  neighbourhood  are  said  to  live  as 
comfortably  as  they  do  in  New  England. 

Maiden,  at  ihe  west  end  of  lake  Erie,  consists  of  about  100 
Ileuses,  and  has  a  garrison,  and  a  great  trade  with  the  Indian 
tribes. 

That  part  of  the  province  wliich  stretches  between  the  lakes, 
Ijing  between  the  42d  and  45lh  degree  of  north  latitude,   is  by 


I 


1 1 


'^: 


! 


J  ■ 


502 


BRITISH    POSSESSIONS. 


far  the  most  vanable,  and  enjoys  a  comparativdy  temperate  cli- 
mate. The  western  winds,  already  noticed,  prevail;  and  the 
winters  are  generally  more  mild  than  at  Pliiladclphia  or  New- 
York,  while  the  summers  are  cool  and  pleasant.  The  part  of  It 
that  I  saw  on  the  north  side  of  lake  Erie,  and  between  the  lakes 
is  beautiful.  It  will  in  all  probability  become  a  thickly-settled 
country ;  and  to  it,  and  the  adjoining  states,  will  the  inhabitants 
in  the  lower  districts  continue  to  be  chiefly  indebted  for  their 
trade. 

Agriculture  is  pretty  well  understoml,  and  the  produce  is  abun- 
dant. A  good  deal  of  domestic  manufacture  is  carried  on,  and 
there  are  some  carding  machines,  and  a  few  coarse  woollens  made; 
but  they  are  not  encouraged,  the  genius  of  the  government  being 
directed  to  secure  as  many  importations  as  possible  from  England. 

The  French,  and  it  may  be  added  the  Dutch,  settled  here,  are 
very  ignorant,  and  set  little  value  upon  education.  Intelligence 
is  chiefly  confined  to  the  British  merchants  and  Yankee  settlers. 
There  are  a  number  of  schools,  but  they  are  not  adapted  to  the 
mass  of  the  people,  nor  does  the  genius  of  the  leading  men  tend 
that  way.  There  is  a  considerable  desire  to  moixopolize  knowledge 
as  well  as  riches  and  power,  and  the  aristocracy,  being  backed 
by  the  military,  have  more  power  here  probably  than  in  Eiifjland. 
The  laws  appear  fair  and  equal,  but  there  is  a  great  deal  of  un- 
derhand management  and  intrigue;  and  neither  independence  of 
sentiment  nor  freedom  of  speech  or  of  the  press  are  encouraged ; 
indeed  they  are  hardly  tolerated ;  while  many  of  the  military  offi- 
cers are  haughty  and  overbearing  in  the  highest  degree. 

The  subject  of  war  between  the  United  States  and  Britain  be» 
ing  the  topic  of  conversation,  I  made  very  minute  inquiry,  so  as 
to  learn  the  sentiments  of  the  people  here  regarding  it.  The  re- 
sult of  the  best  information  I  could  procure  was,  that  1000  men 
would  be  sufficient,  along  with  the  militia,  to  protect  the  frontier 
on  the  Niagara  river ;  and  were  5000  men  to  be  sent  into  the 
province  with  a  proclamation  of  independence,  the  great  mass  of 
the  people  would  join  the  American  government. 

The  following  summary  of  the  population  and  trade  of  Canada, 
is  copied  from,  a  late  British  newspaper. 

Population  about  330,000 


Ijtave  Lewistati 


NEW   YORK. 

Exports. 
Furs  and  skins 

Wheat,  flour,  buscuit,  and  grain 
Lumber 

Pot  and  Pearl  ashes 
Beef  and  pork 
Sundries 


Vessels  employed 
Tons  oi  shipping 


503 

jfi.  150,000 

130,500 

556,500 

223,000 

30,000 

16,000 

Total  j£.  1,1 12000 


Imports  about 


je.  1,000,000 


660 
144,000 


"•\       H\i 


CHAPTER  XCIX. 

Uave  LewistffVDH, — Devil's  Holey — Grand  Niagara^ — Fott  Schlosser. 

Mr.  and  Mrs  Miller  having  on  the  preceding  evening  agi-ecd  to 
accompany  me  to  the  falls,  on  the  American  side,  they  called  for 
me  this  morning,  and  we  set  out  at  10  o'clock.  As  we  passed 
throuffh  Lewistown  I  procured  the  following  information  regarding 
this  new  settlement. 

Lewistown  is  laid  out  on  a  handsome  plan,  occupying  a  mile 
square,  and  a  considerable  piece  of  ground  is  appropriated  to  pub- 
lic purposes.     It  is  subdivided  into  blocks  of  three  chains,  each 
containing  three  lots,  and  they  sell  at  present  for  from  100  to  300 
dollars.    It  is  gradually  building  up  with  brick,  frame,  and  stone 
liouses ;  and  is  well  supplied  with  fine  water,  which  renders  it  very 
comfortable.     Being  at  the  bottom  of  the  portage  on  the  American 
side,  it  is  the  seat  of  considerable  trade,  which  is  likely  to  incrdtise. 
Twenty  vessels  belong  to   the  lake  navigation  here,    and  2300 
bushels  of  salt  were  landed  at  Lewistown  last  season.     The  quan- 
tify ot-flour,  grain,  provisions,  and  peltry  that  are  shipped,  is  con- 
siderable; and  for  every  article  of  produce  there  is  a  brisk  de- 
mand, and   a  good  price.     Wheat  sells  for  1  dollar  per  bushel, 
flour  7  dollars  per  barrel,  pork  6  dollars  }K'r  barrel.     The  coun- 
ty' is  improving  in  the  neiy^hbourhood,  and  land  is  worth  fioni  7 


Hi'! 


A] 


m 


dOI 


TilAVELS   IN 


to  9  dollars  per  acre.  Merino  sheep  have  been  introduced,  and 
are  doing  well;  and  there  arc  considerable  domestic  manufactures, 
though  none  on  a  large  scale. 

About  a  mile  from  Lewistown  we  reached  the  foot  of  the  as- 
cent which  leads  to  the  table  land  above;  and  I  frequently 
stopped  by  the  way,  to  admire  the  fine  view>  and  to  examine  the 
mechanism  of  this  part  of  the  country ;  which  clearly  demonstrates 
that  the  falls  were  once  here,  and  have,  through  the  lapse  of  nges, 
worn  a  passage  eight  miles  upwards  to  where  they  now  are. 
They  must  have  been  successively  at  every  point  of  the  intermediate 
space.  The  river  below  this  holds  a  placid,  though  pretty  rapid 
course,  to  the  lake,  the  surface  being  only  15  or  20  feet  below  the 
banks ;  and  it  is  from  one-half  to  three-quarters  of  a  mile  wide ; 
but  above  this  it  is  confined  within  a  narrow  channel,  the  motion 
is  accelerated  to  a  great  velocity,  and  it  is  rough  and  turbulent, 
the  probable  effect  of  a  very  ragged  bottom,  which  the  fal  Is  would 
make  in  their  ascent.  The  banks,  nearly  perpendicular,  are  about 
300  feet  high,  and  composed  of  hard  limestone  above,  and  schistus 
below ;  and  this  arrangement  continues  all  the  way  to  the  present 
fall. 

I  shall  here  transcribe  Volney*s  remarks  on  this  subject.  "  To 
those  who  closely  examine  the  situation  of  the  scene,  it  is  plain 
the  fall  commences  here,  and  that  it  has  sawed  through  the  lay- 
ers of  the  rock,  and  thus  hollowed  out  its  channel.  The  chasm 
has  been  gradually  worn  away,  from  age  to  age,  till  it  reached  the 
place  where  the  tall  now  appears.  This  operation  has  continued 
slowly,  but  ince&santly.  The  oldest  settlers  in  the  neighbourhood 
recollect  a  period  when  the  bank  of  the  fall  was  several  paces  for- 
ward. In  the  winter  of  1797-8,  the  great  thaw,  and  consequent 
floods,  loosened  great  masses,  which  confine  1  the  course  of  the 
water,"*         i  aii.v*f  /-uii,*  m^  i  -nt^rf, 


^'ju*  iisw  ¥1  am'. 


*  Volney  exprcssses  awish  tli  ^t  the  government  would  caase  an  exact  account  to  be 
taken  of  the  present  state  of  the  cataract,  that,  being  compared  with  other  statement} 
from  time  to  time,  would  enable  us  to  trace  with  certainty  the  changes  that  may  here- 
after take  place.  This  is  now  not  so  necessary  ea  when  Volney  visited  these  falls. 
The  country  is  rapidly  settling  up  around  them,  and  many  people  visit  them  yearly, 
some  of  whom  will  occasionally  publish  their  travels,  so  that  all  facts  and  circumstan- 
ces r^arding  them  will  be  minutely  put  upon  record.  To  me  it  is  very  obvious  that  tbey 
have,  to  use  Volney's  expression,  xaiued  a  passage  through  a  body  of  very  hard  rock, 
•ight  milM  in  length  ;  and  it  is  perfectly  reasonable  to  conclude  that  tiie  opcrati«Hi  >».  j 


JKfKJ  /rffit    ,imi:ii}ntHith 


•ft 


-<? 


uiUto  be 
latements 
ay  bere- 
ese  falls- 
:n  yearly, 
curartan- 
that  they 
d  rock, 
Tation  i». 


f 

[1 

i 

1 

*n 

i 

iff    .^^1 

V 

Tu    sH 

1 

L3  'wm 

i 

f  wi 

1} 

'■r 

t     : 

1 

*ih  it! 


ij;i'  fl 


HJt 


'  ■»    .  '  i 


On  reachin 
we  had  a  fine ' 
York,  Newar 
ferent  from  th; 
the  timber  is  h 
ance  indicate: 
greater  antiqu 
and  I  would  p 

constantly  going  o 

ccsi  of  time,  saw 

Erie.  '  But  this  ihi 

of  the  inhabitants, 

troit,  and  refer  to 

place ;  anU  tliat  a  ] 

mediate  space,  no  t 

Mr.  Schultz,  a  1 

scription  of  these  ft 

girding  their  durati 

as  attempting  to  de 

it  should  be  recollc 

which  the  last  is  by 

gant  treatise  on  natt 

have  been  of  the  sai 

mament  showeth  hi; 

not  heard."     "  Thr 

of  God."     "  Come, 

of  the  earth  ;  the  st 

his  hands  formud  th 

before  the  Lord,  ot 

one  of  the  attribute 

proof  of  integrity  o 

impressions  that  are 

taken  ;  but  if  lie  hai 

Warned  on  that  accoi 

an  evil  intention.     J 

nature,  has  been  in( 

than  what  is  assiznc 

all  militates  against 

present  system  of  ch 

of  the  creation,  by  ii 

the  heavens  and  the  i 

thing  that  appears  in 

6000  years.     For  mj 

infinitely  beyond  eitli 

jne^  has  not  existed  1 


KEW    YORK. 


505 


On  reaching  the  summit  of  the  table  land,  about  300  feet  high, 
we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  plain  and  river  below,  of  lake  Ontario, 
York,  Newark,  Queenstown,  and  Lewistown.  The  soil  above  is  dif- 
ferent from  that  below ;  it  has  a  larger  portion  of  vegetable  mould  ; 
the  timber  is  larger,  and  exhibits  greater  variety;  and  every  appear- 
ance indicates  a  state  of  greater  maturity,  and  consequently  of 
greater  antiquity.  I  consider  the  soil  here  better  than  that  below, 
and  I  would  prefer  this  situation  as  a  place  of  residence;  but  the 

constantly  going  on.  It  cannot  be  otherwise  ;  and  it  is  clear  that  they  will,  in  pro- 
cess of  time,  saw  a  passage  through  the  rocks  20  miles  upwards,  and  drain  Lake 
Erie.  '  But  this  must  be  a  very  slow  process,  though  it  is  inevitably  certain,  and  some 
of  the  inhabitants,  who  live  2  or  300,000  years  hence,  may  view  tlie  falls  below  De- 
troit, and  refer  to  works  of  the  present  day  for  proof  that  they  once  existed  at  thii 
place ;  and  tliat  a  lake  (lake  Eiie,)  300  miles  long  and  70  broad,  existed  in  the  inter- 
mediate space,  no  trace  of  which  will  then  be  seen. 

Mr.  Schultz,  a  late  intelligent  and  agreeable  traveller,  has  given  a  very  correct  de- 
scription of  these  falls ;  and,  as  might  be  expected,  is  led  into  a  train  of  reasoning  re- 
garding their  duration  and  progi  ess,  for  which  he  has  been  censured  by  his  reviewers , 
as  attempting  to  destroy  tlic  Mosaic  history  of  man,  and  with  it  divine  revelation.  Uut 
it  should  be  recollected  that  revelation  consists  of  two  parts,  verbal  and  natural,  of 
which  the  last  is  by  far  the  most  important,  as  Dr.  Paley  has  demonstrated  in  his  ck'- 
gant  treatise  on  natural  theology ;  and  some  of  the  ancient  writers  in  scripture  seem  to 
have  been  of  the  same  opinion.  "  The  heavens  declare  the  glory  of  God,  and  the  lir- 
mament  showeth  his  handy-work :  there  is  no  spcwli  nor  language  where  tlieir  voice  is 
not  heard."  "  Through  faith  we  understand  that  the  worlds  were  framed  by  the  word 
of  God."  "  Come,  behold  the  works  of  the  Lord."  "  In  his  hand  are  Uiedeep  places 
of  tlie  earth  ;  the  strength  of  the  hills  is  his  also.  The  sea  is  his,  and  he  made  it ;  and 
hk  hands  formod  the  dry  land.  O,  come,  let  ns  worship  .nnd  Ik)w  down  ;  let  us  kneel 
before  the  Lord,  our  maker."  In  beholding  the  works  of  God  in  the  creation,  it  is 
one  of  the  attributes  of  our  nature  to  reason  and  to  reflect  upon  them  ;  and  it  is  ? 
proof  of  integrity  of  principle,  and  independence  of  sentiment,  to  state  caiididly  the 
impressions  that  are  made  upon  the  mind  by  the  investigation.  Tiie  writer  may  be  mis- 
taken ;  but  if  he  has  communicated  bis  ideas  in  res])ectful  langutige,  he  should  not  be 
blamed  on  that  account,  and  a  mistake  of  the  judgment  should  not  be  construed  into 
an  evil  intention.  Mr.  SchulU  is  not  the  only  person,  who,  from  the  appearances  of 
nature,  has  been  induced  to  assign  a  much  greater  degree  of  antiquity  to  the  world 
than  what  is  assigned  by  the  popular  opinion ;  and  I  really  do  not  see  that  the  idea  at 
all  militates  against  Cverbal)  "  revelation,"  or  "  the  Mosaic  history  of  man."  Thi 
present  system  of  chronology  is,  if  I  mistake  not,  deduced  from  the  IMosaic  account 
of  the  creation,  by  inference  only.  Moses  simply  says,  "  In  the  beginning  God  created 
the  heavens  and  the  earth."  lie  does  not  say  when  the  beginning  was ;  and,  for  any 
thing  that  appears  in  his  writings,  it  may  be  with  as  great  propriety  fix»Hl  at  27,001)  a^ 
6000  years.  For  my  own  part,  I  believe  the  world  to  have  existed  from  asjiace  of  time 
infinitely  beyond  either,  although  I  tlijnk  it  extremely  probable  that  the  present  race  of 
ineti  has  not  existed  long  beyond  6000  years. 

61  '  :     •" 


m 


M/fl: 


jf  -it 


506 


TRAVELS  IN 


plain  is  settling  most  rapidly,  chiefly  on  account  of  theconveniency 
of  the  water. 

After  travelling  about  four  miles,  we  came  to  the  river  bank, 
which  was  so  steep  that  I  could  throw  a  stone  into  the  water  at  least 
350  feet  distant.  We  stopped  a  few  minutes  at  a  small  distillery, 
belonging  to  a  Scotsman ;  after  which,  we  again  approached  the 
bank  of  the  river,  at  a  place  called  Devil's  Hole,  a  frightful  cavity, 
where  I  was  told  a  party  of  £0  or  60  British  soldiers  had  been 
pursued  by  the  Indians,  and  only  1 1  escaped  alive.  Not  far  from 
hence  there  is  a  whirlpool  on  the  opposite  side,  which,  as  I  did  not 
see,  I  shall  describe  in  the  words  of  Volney.  **  I  had  an  oppor- 
tunity  of  visiting  the  ravine  (in  which  the  river  runs,)  at  a  spot 
where  a  large  bay  is  ibrmed  in  one  of  its  sides.  Here  the  waters 
have  formed  a  deep  recess  or  whirlpool,  in  which  are  entangled 
all  the  floating  bodies,  which  cannot  go  any  further.  We  observe, 
at  this  place,  the  river,  checked  by  the  stubborn  rock,  carries  its 
foil  over  several  points,  and  appears  to  search  out  the  weakest  spot, 
through  which  it  continues  its  way." 

"We  heatd  the  sound  of  the  falls  very  distinctly  when  we  were 
finir  or  five  miles  distant,  and,  arriving  within  a  mile,  we  had  a 
full  view  of  them,  and  passed  on  to  a  recent  settlement  immediate- 
ly above  them,  by  the  side  of  the  rapids^  where  a  town  has  lately 
been  laid  ont,  called  Grand  Niagara. 

Here  we  left  our  horses  and  Walked  down  to  the  falls ;  but  the 
fheet  of  failing  water  is  small  here,  compared  with  the  horse-slioe 
fall ;  and  being  interrupted  by  large  masses  of  rocks  below,  the 
perpendicular  descent  is  not  near  so  great. 

The  bank  is  so  low  here  that  the  water  occasionally  touches  the 
grass  in  its  descent,  and  you  can  walk  to  the  very  margin  with  the 
greatest  safety.  I  walked  here  so  clost  to  the  edge,  that  I  could 
■wash  my  hands  in  the  water  while  in  the  act  of  falling. 

There  is  a  good  new  ladder  a  little  below  the  falls  on  this  side, 
near  which,  from  an  eniinence,  we  had  an  extended  view  of  the 
wliole  fulls,  which,  though  not  so> eminently  grand  as  on  the  Canada 
side,  where  you  get  right  in  front  of  them,  is  yet  very  superb. 

lliu  channel  between  the  shore  and  the  island  is  about  250  yards 
broad,  and  the  descent  by  the  rapids,  previous  to  making  the 
grand  pitchy  is  about  50  feet. 

1'he  river  is  two  miles  and  a  half  broad  at  Chijipaway  creek. 

At  the  tails  it  13  comructed  to  tliree-qiiurters  of  a  mile. 


NEW   YORK.  507 

Below  the  falls  it  is  contracted  to  about  one-third  of  a  mile. 

Feet. 
The  descent  from  Chippaway  creek  to  the  head  of  the 

rapids,  distant  one  mile,  is  40. 

The  descent  in  the  rapids,  half  a  mile  long,  is  ^2 

The  grand  pitch  at  the  table  rock,  is  170 


f  3 


Total      262 


The  whole  descent  firom  lake  Erie  to  lake  Ontario  has  been  estii* 
mated  at  450  feet ;  and  in  the  distance  between  Fort  Schlosser  and 
Devil's  Hole»  it  has  been  found  by  actual  measurement  to  be  373 
feet. 

From  the  best  information  I  conld  procure,  1  am  inclined  to 
make  the  following  calculation  on  the  descent  of  the  river  between 
the  lakes : 

Feet. 
From  lake  Erie  to  Chippaway  16 

From  Chippaway  to  the  bottom  of  the  grand  pitch»  as  above     262 
From  the  grand  pitch  to  Devil's  Hole  110 

From  Devil's  Hole  to  Lewistown  ■  BQ. 

From  Lewistown  to  lake  Ontario  6 


■thi: 


Total    450 

It  has  been  noticed  that  the  bed  of  the  river  above  the  falls  is 
composed  of  a  stratum  of  very  hard  limestone,  mixed  with  flint. 
Below  this  there  is  a  stratum  of  very  soft  slate,  which,  when  rub- 
bed in  a  wet  state,  assumes  the  appear^ince  of  blue  clay.  This,  of 
course^  deer  s  much  faster  than  the  stratum  above,  and  accounts 
for  the  lar^  javity  below  the  falls ;  and  the  hard  rock  above,  ap- 
propriately termed  the  table  rock,  projecting  over  the  base,  renders 
the  pitch  perpendicular.  In  the  middle  of  the  stream,  on  the 
Canada  side,  the  great  accumulation  of  waters  breaks  down  this 
table  rock  faster  than  it  is  broken  at  the  sides,  which  accounts  for 
the  curve  in  the  stream,  termed,  from  its  appearance,  the  horse. 
Iihoefall. 

At  grand  Niagara  there  are  erected  a  grist-mill,  a  saw -mill,  a 

fttlling-mill,  a  carding  and  roving  machine;    and  several  other 

1  ajiUi  are  projected.    The  water  is  brought  out  of  the  river  above 


s:" 


i    •:. 


m 


508 


TRAVELS   IN 


the  rnpids,  and  n.s  tlic  source  is  incxlinustible,  and  the  fall  about 
50  feet,  mills  and  maclnncry,  to  a  very  great  extent,  can  bo  erect- 
here.  The  country  round  is  fertile  and  beautiful,  so  that  I  think 
it  probable  this  will  become  a  very  large  settlement.  It  will  not 
probably  increase  with  the  rapidity  of  some  towns  merely  commer- 
cial ;  but  it  will  have  a  more  steady  progress,  and  be  much  less 
liable  to  re-action. 

There  is  a  bar  across  this  branch  of  the  river,  at  the  head  of  the 
rapids,  by  which  the  people  sometimes  go  to  the  island,  opposite 
Grand  Niagara ;  but  it  is  considered  rather  dangerous. 

A  boat  loaded  with  salt  and  a  canoe  were  carried  over  the  falls 
not  long  since.  The  boat  got  adrifl  about  five  miles  above,  and 
was  carried  down  by  the  current.  There  were  four  men  in  it, 
one  of  whom  saved  himself  by  jumping  overboard,  and  swimming 
ashore  with  the  help  of  an  oar.  The  other  three  kept  by  the  boat, 
and  were,  with  it,  dashed  to  pieces  among  the  rapids,  and  finally 
carried  over  the  awful  precipice.  ?  ne  of  the  fragments  of  the 
boat  and  casks  were  found  below  the  "alls;  and  one  of  the  dead 
bodies  was  found,  in  a  very  mangled  state,  on  lake  Ontario,  11 
miles  from  land.  The  canoe  was  carried  over  with  two  men  in  it, 
and  one  of  the  dead  bodies  was  found  below  with  both  less  off. 

Ducks  and  geese  are  sometimes  carried  over ;  and  though  they 
save  themselves  from  utter  destruction  by  flight,  they  are  found 
below  so  .ctunned  that  they  cannot  fly,  and  are  caught  with  ease 
on  the  banks.  There  is  a  fine  fishery  in  the  water  below  the  fails 
and  in  the  rapids. 

Having  stopped  some  time  at  Grand  Niagara,  we  went  to  a  ta- 
vern at  fort  Schlosser,  where  we  passed  the  nights 

The  subject  of  navigable  canals  having  of  late  excited  a  great 
degree  of  attention  in  the  United  States,  1  resolved,  at  setting 
out,  to  pay  a  little  attention  to  it,  and  have  accordingly  noticed  it 
occasionally  in  the  course  of  this  work.  From  an  early  investi- 
gation of  the  subject,  it  appeared  to  me,  that  a  canal  of  much  im- 
portance could  be  made  between  this  place  and  Lewistown,  so  as 
to  continue  the  chain  of  communication  from  the  river  St.  Law^ 
rence  along  the  lakes.  There  is  a  natural  harbour  formed  at  fort 
Schlosser  by  an  eddy  in  the  river,  and  the  ground  is  pretty  level 
to  the  extremity  of  the  land  above  Lewistown.  An  ample  supply 
of  water  could  be  procured  from  the  river,  to  make  up  for  the 
waste  in  descending  the  locks ;  so  that  it  is  perfectly  practicable  to 


KUW    YORK. 


60D 


make  a  canal.  The  distance  is  about  nine  miles,  and  the  canal 
would  require  to  be  sufficiently  large  to  admit  of  sloop  navigation. 
But  it  appears,  by  a  late  survey  and  report  of  commissioners  ap- 
pointetl  by  the  state  of  New  York,  that  the  utility  of  such  a  canal 
may  be  superceded  by  a  more  profitable  line  to  run  between  the 
Niagara  river  and  Albany.  1  shall,  therefore,  here  merely  tran- 
scribe the  estimate  for  making  a  canal  at  this  place,  from  the 
secretary  of  the  treasury's  report  on  canals  and  roads,  and  defer 
a  further  consideration  of  the  subject  until  I  reach  Utica  or  Al- . 
bany,  when  I  shall  have  travelled  over  the  greater  part  of  the 
ground  through  which  it  is  proposed  the  canal  shall  run. 

"The  fall  from  lake  Erie  to  lake  Ontario  has  been  already 
stated  at  450  feet.  A  company  had  been  incorporated  by  the 
state  of  New  York  for  the  purpose  of  openmga  canal  at  this  place, 
but  it  does  not  appear  that  any  thing  ever  was  attempted  after  the 
survey  had  been  made.  The  intention  seems  to  have  been  to 
open  a  canal  navigation  for  boats  only,  from  Fort  Schlosser  to 
Devil'b  Hole.  The  lake  itself  and  Giles'  creek  would  have  sup^ 
plied  the  water,  and  the  expense  was  estimated  at  iSTtOOO  dollars. 

"  It  is  however,  evident  that  the  canal,  in  order  to  be  as  emi- 
nently useful  as  the  nature  of  the  undertaking  seems  to  require, 
should  be  on  such  a  scale  as  to  admit  vessels  which  can  navigate 
both  lakes.  Considering  the  distance,  which,  in  that  case,  must 
be  extended  to  about  10  miles,  and  the  lockage  of  450  feet,  it  is 
not  believed  that  the  expence  can  be  estimated  at  less  than  1,000,009 
dollars." 


CHAPTER  C. 

Leave  Fort  Schlosser, — Tonewanta  creek,  Batavia. 

J^OVEMBER  1st.  The  morning  was  cool  and  foggy.  I  part- 
ed with  my  friends  at  nine  o'clock,  and  set  forward  on  my  jour- 
ney. At  a  short  distance  from  the  tavern  where  I  lodged,  I  pass- 
ed Fort  .Schlosser,  or  rather  the  scite  of  it;  for  nothing  how  re- 
mains but  the  under  part,  sufficiently  prominent  to  distinguish 
what  was  its  form  and  dimensions. 

From  thence  to  Tonewanta  creek  is   12  miles,  and  the  road 
runs  near  the  side  of  tlie  river  all  the  way.    On  this  road  there  is 


r.l 


U    > 


\M . 


■  ^t''  1 


W     'IV 


i. 


"'a     '  1 


.;« 


.li! 


'■^M 


p  11  '^ 


I  •! 


.^r,M  m 


&I0  TRAVELS   IN 

B  fine  view  of  the  river,  of  Grand  Island,  and  the  Canada  shore. 
There  is  a  small  island  at  the  mouth  of  the  Tonewanta  creek 
which  is  here  joinx!  by  another  stream  called   EUicott's  cre«k. 
The  river  is  here  above    half  a  mile  wide,  and  the  east  bank  ii 
mostly  level  rich  land. 

Having  crossed  the  creek  by  a  wooden  bridge,  I  left  the  Buffk. 
lo  road.  I  perceived  a  new  line  of  road,  cut  through  the  woods, 
leading  toward  Batavia,  but  I  was  informed  it  was  impassible, 
and  took  an  old  path  which  passed  a  considerable  way  along  the 
south  bank  of  EUicott's  creek,  here  a  slow  deep  stream,  with  verv 
fertile  banks.  On  leaving  the  creek  I  travelled  through  the 
woods,  four  miles,  by  the  worst  road  I  Iiad  ever  seen,  before  I 
came  to  any  house,  and  I  then  found  a  few  poor  settlements  with- 
in about  half  a  mile  of  each  other,  all  the  way  to  the  turn- 
pike, about  six  miles  from  the  mouth  of  Tonewanta  creek. 
The  road  was  in  some  places  so  bad,  that  my  horse  sometimes 
sunk  to  the  knees,  and  at  one  time  it  was  with  considerable  dif- 
ficulty that  I  got  it  disengaged.  The  settlers  whom  I  spoke  with 
were  nearly  all  sick,  a  natural  effect  in  the  first  settlement  of  a 
low  swampy  country ;  but  the  lands  here  are  rich,  and  when  drain- 
ed will  form  a  good  situation. 

When  I  reached  the  turnpike  road,  I  was  quite  surprised  to 
find  the  country  so  well  settled.  Not  many  years  ago  it  was  an 
entire  wilderness ;  now  the  houses  are  so  thick  along  the  road, 
that  the  traveller  is  never  out  of  sight  of  one,  and  inns  are  to  be 
found  at  the  end  of  every  two  or  three  miles.  The  road  runs  a- 
long  a  sort  of  limestone  ridge,  and  to  the  north  the  soil  is  com- 
posed of  a  fine  black  vegetable  mould,  which  raises  grain  and 
grass  in  profusion. 

About  a  mile  and  a  half  from  where  I  entered  on  the  turnpike  I 
crossed  EUicott's  creek,  here  a  pretty,  clear  stream,  having  falls 
and  miUs  not  far  from  the  road.  I  was  informed  that  the  lands 
on  the  road  side  are  laid  out  in  lots,  of  half  a  mile  in  front  by  a 
inUe  back,  each  containing  320  acres.  They  are  all  taken  up, 
and  most  of  them  are  under  cultivation.  The  price  is  from  6  to 
18  dollars,  according  to  quality  and  degree  of  improvement.  A 
great  number  of  the  settlers  here  are  Germans,  from  near  Lan- 
caster, Pennsylvania. 

In  my  progress  I  met  several  families  moving  to  the  westward, 
and  a  number  of  travellers,  from  distant  places,  in  quest  of  land. 


MIW   YORK.  511 

I  stopped  at  dark  at  a  tavern,  19  miles  from  BufFulo.  I  was  there 
informed  that  the  country  was  mostly  settled  by  people  from  Pcnn- 
lylvania,  who  were  good  farmers,  and  though  they  looked  poor, 
they  generally  had  a  good  deal  of  money.  At  the  early  part  of 
the  settlement,  the  country  had  been  a  good  deal  troubled  with 
bears  and  wolves,  but  they  had  now  disappeared,  and  sheep  hud 
been  introduced,  and  were  thriving  well.  Lands  arc  held  un- 
cleared at  from  five  to  seven  dollars,  on  the  roud  ;  a  little  back  at 
three  dollars.  Last  spring  they  took  a  sudden  rise,  which  had 
checked  the  progress  of  settlement,  the  new  settlers  passing  over  to 
New  ConnecticuL;  and  this  will  continue  to  be  the  case  unless  the 
price  be  reduced.  The  landlord  had  been  on  Grand  Island,  in 
the  Niagara  river,  which  he  describes  as  a  body  of  excellent  land. 
November  2d.  I  set  forward  on  my  journey  at  six  o'clock;  the 
morning  was  cloudy,  with  a  slight  frost.  I  travelled  six  miles  to 
breaktast,  through  a  low  muddy  tract  of  land.  Part  of  the  road 
was  a  causeway  of  timber,  and  very  rough .  The  tavern  where  I 
stopped  was  a  neat  clean  house,  and  announced  comfort  and  good 
cheer.  On  entering  the  breakfast  room,  a  gentleman  dressed  in 
black  sat  at  table,  and  frequently  viewed  me  with  such  a  gracious 
unile  in  his  aspect,  that  it  brought  to  my  recollection  the  *'  sweet 
voices  anil  smiling  faces"  mentioned  by  Red  Jacket.  At  last, 
breaking  silence,  he  accosted  me.  "  Are  you  from  New  York, 
pray, 


SU' 


?" 


Yes  sir,"  replied  I.  After  some  common-place 
conversation,  he  observed,  "  New  York  seems  to  me  to  be  highly 
favoured  with  divines."— As  I  object  to  the  titles  of  the  Almighty 
being  applied  to  any  set  of  men,  I  wished  to  waive  the  subject ; 
but  he  seemed  determined  to  improve  the  time,  and  ran  on  with 
a  variety  of  observations  on  the  clergy  of  New  York,  and  circum- 
stances connected  with  the  clerical  profession  generally;  and,  rising 
up,  he  repeated  with  much  emphasis  the  charge  of  the  apostle 
Paul  to  Timothy,  which  having  finished,  he  called  for  his  horse, 
iiid  rode  off.  I  learned  that  he  was  a  missionary  preacher,  and  is 
probably  the  same  whom  lied  Jacket  addressed  in  May  last. 

After  breakfast  I  continued  my  journey,  through  a  level  coun- 
try, abounding  with  small  swamps,  but  the  soil  was  good;  and  10 
miles  from  the  tavern  reached  Tonnewanta  creek,  which  I  fussed 
by  a  bridge,  and  travelled  along  its  left  bank  four  miles  to  Batavia, 
of  which  the  elegant  court-house  has  a  beautiful  appearance  at  a 
distance 


'  t , 


;.  J.,, 


in*.  I 


I- 

i  lit 


512 


TRAVELS    IN 


Batnvia  being  the  plncc  for  transacting  the  business  of  the  IIoI- 
land  land  company,  I  waited  on  Mr.  Ellicott,  the  agent,  who 
favoured  mc  with  a  great  variety  of  useful  information. 

This  district,  conmionly  called  the  Holland  Purchose,  extends 
from  Lake  Ontario  to  the  Pennsylvania  line  on  the  south, 
and  from  Pennsylvania  line  on  the  west,  to  ihe  banks  of 
the  Geiiessec  on  the  east.  Its  extreme  length  from  oast  to 
west  is  about  96  mili?s,  and  the  breadth  from  north  to  south  'u 
nearly  as  much ;  but  the  lakes  and  Uj)pcr  Canada  cut  off  a  hir^o 
portion  from  the  square  on  the  west  side,  and  a  considerable  por- 
tion is  cut  off  on  the  north-cast  side  by  otiier  purchases  towards 
the  Gcnessce  river.  The  remainder  amounts  to  about  C200 
square  miles,  or  nearly  4,000,000  acres ;  but  froin  this  arc  to  be 
deducted  the  Indian  reservations,  and  the  New  York  state  reser- 
vation, making  together  about  250,000  acres,  leaving  to  this  com- 
pany 3,750,000,  being  by  far  the  largest  tract  of  land  ever  held 
by  any  land  company  in  this  country. 

The  general  configuration  of  the  country  may  be  inferred  from  1 
the  account  of  that  part  through  which  I  travelled.     Towards  the 
borders  of  the  state  it  is  hilly ;  from  thence  to  within  eight  miles  of  | 
lake  Ontario,  it  is  a  high  plain,  in   most  places  undulating,  and  | 
agreeably  uneven ;   in  others  nearly  level :    to  the  north  ot  the 
ridge,  eight  miles  from  lake  Ontario,  it  is  almost  quite  level  to 
the  lake. 

The  soil  is  gefierdlly  fertile,  the  whole  being  nearly  similar  (o  I 
that  described,  except  in  the  southern  district,  where  it  is  rather 
rough.     It  seems  to  be  rather  defective  in  minerals,  but  is  abun- 
dantly supplied  with  springs  and  streams  of  water ;  and  tliere  arc  I 
several  salt-springs,  and  some  air  and  oil-springs. 

The  Holland  company  have  adopted  very  judicious  measures! 
in  settling  up  the  lands,  and  have  expended  vast  sums  of  moncyj 
on  roads,  bridges,  buildings,  and  improvements ;  but  the  countryj 
is  now  rapidly  settling  up,  and  the  purchase  is  likely  to  turn  outj 
a  very  favourable  speculation. 

The  settlers  are  mostly  from  New  England,  and  they  give  thej 
tone  to  the  manners  and  habits  of  the  people,  which  are  nearly  as- 
similated to  those  of  the  New  England  states,  though  tliey  are! 
interspersed  with  Germans,  and  with  emigrants  from  Ireland  and| 
Scotland.      The  inhabitants  are  mostly  farmers  and  mechanic-: 
there  are  no  manufactures  on  a  large  scale,  but   there  are  a  grea'j 


NtW    YORK.  513 

number  of  cnrdin^  machines,  niul  the  people  mostly  miikc  their 
own  clothing.  There  arc  no  roscrves  for  schools ;  but  cihicntioii 
is  pretty  well  attended  to  by  the  iiihubitunts,  who,  whenever  10 
families  are  settled  near  each  other,  associate  and  procnre  a 
sckool-moster.  The  district  is  divided  into  five  counties,  contain- 
ing  23,557  inhabitants. 

There  are  no  towns  of  any  ini)K)rtancc  in  the  district.  The 
country  houses  exhibit  a  similar  appearance  to  those  in  New  Eng- 
land, being  built  of  wood,  and  painted  white.  Many  of  the /a  are 
beautiful,  and  display  an  elegant  taste. 

The  country  is  well  supplied  with  prettv  good  'oo^i^,  of  '.vhuii 
the  great  state  road,  alreudy  mentioned,  is  the  f.h  cf.  Tiirrc  are 
abundance  of  good  taverns  by  the  way,  which  acconiaiiHiftic  pn;- 
lengers  on  reasonable  terms.  The  principal  mavktf  h;  aa  thj;  i  *ke, 
and  it  is  believed  by  the  people  here  that  it  will  a!\vu}v  corttiiiue  to 
be  so;  they  seem,  so  far  as  I  have  yet  collected  their  B«:jiU!mc»ls,  to 
consider  the  projected  canal  as  of  no  imporluiice  to  th?m;  an>!t  tUo 
moft  prevalent  opinion,  indeed,  is  that  it  is  iniprac^icnblc,  ,\'m).  ihat 
the  scheme  will  be  abandoned.  At  present  the  emigrants  who  are 
pouring  into  the  country  and  travelling  to  the  we-Jtwr.rdy  vuk :.  uj)  n 
great  part  of  the  surplus  produce. 

The  present  price  of  the  company's  lands  is  S  doVlais  r>C  cents 
per  acre,  of  which  5  per  cent,  is  payable  in  cash,  and  t'*e  rcmairu'cr, 
being  divided  into  6  instalments,  is  payable  at  3,  4,  5^  6,  7,  and  8 
years,  with  interest  for  the  last  6  years ;  but  if  the  purchaser  neg- 
lects to  make  certain  improvements  the  first  year,  he  is  then  subject 
to  pay  interest  from  the  date  of  sale.  The  above,  however,  :&  only 
(he general  retail  price  to  settlers;  there  are  mapv  tracts  v»hu;h 
would  be  sold  for  less  :  and  a  colony  of  settlers  wijo  cowK!  pur»'ha5'e 
a  whole  township  could  be  accommodated  on,  fr-vourabie  terms. 
Twenty  per  cent,  discount  is  allowed  for  c&<>h. 

Batavia  consists  of  about  50  house;.  ;.  tourt-house,  4  taverns,  4- 
stores,  and  a  grist  milL  It  was  lAi\  out  in  lots  of  20  rods  in  fiont, 
by  I  mile  deep,  and  sold  .uiginady  for  5  dollars  per  acre,  the  pur- 
chaser being  bound  to  clear  5  acres  in  front  the  first  year  after  the 
purchase.  In  consequence  of  the  decay  of  so  much  vegetable  mat- 
ter, it  was  at  first  unhealthy  in  the  summer  and  fall ;  but  of  late  it 
has  been  healthy.  This  last  summer,  however,  there  were  some  ca- 
ses of  typhus  fever ;  but  not  ol  a  very  fatal  tendency,  and  it  did  not 
spread. 

65 


*  "\ 


:    i 

i     . 
1 

■J , " 

If, 

1 

514  TRAVELS     IS 

Furmors  and  mechanics  arc  best  adapted  to  the  country,  and  if 
lliey  are  industrious  they  arc  sure  to  succeed.     A  farmer  can  get  a 
(juartcr  section  of  land,  160  acres,  for  560  dollars,  with  eight  years 
to  pay  it.     If  he  is  industrious,  he  may  have  the  whole  cleared  and 
cultivated  like  a  i;arden  by  the  end  of  that  time ;  when,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  rise  on  property,  by  the  increase  of  population,  and 
the  cultivation  by  his  individual  industry,  his  land  may  be  worth  50 
dollars  per  acre,  or  ROOD  dollars;  besides  his  stock  of  cattle,  &c., 
which  mny  be  worth  half  us  much  more.     Mechanics  are  well  paid 
for  their  labour;  carpenters  have  1  dollar  per  day  and  their  board; 
if  they  board  themselves  1  dollar  25  cents.     Other  trades  have  in 
proportion,  and  living  is  cheap.     Flour  is  about  5  dollars  perbjir- 
rd,  beef  't  cents  per  lb.,  fowls  12'   cents  each,  fish  arc  plenty  and 
cl»eap.  A  mechanic  can  thus  earn  as  much  in  two  days  as  will  main- 
tain a  family  for  a  week  ;  and  by  vesting  the  surplus  in  houses  and 
lots  ill  a  judicious  manner,  he  may  accumulate  money  as  fnst  as  the 
lia'mer,  and  both  may  be  independent  and  happy.      Indeed,  these 
two  classes  cannot  too  highly  prize  the  blessings  they  enjoy  in  this 
country,  nor  be  sufilciently  grateful  to  the  almighty  Disposer  of  all 
events,  for  casting  their  lot  in  a  land  where  they  have  advantjigcs 
so  far  transcending  what  the  same  classes  have  in  any  other.  I  know 
tliere  are  many  who  hold  a  different  opinion ;  but  I  must  take  the 
liberty  to  dissent  from  it,  and  the  reader  who  has  travelled  with  me 
thus  far,  will  allow  that  my  opinion  is  not  founded  either  on  a  par- 
tial or  prejudiced  view  of  the  subject;  it  is  deduced  from  plain  un- 
varnished facts,  which  no  reasoning  can  set  aside,  nor  sophistrj'  in- 
validate. I  know  that  there  are  many  wealthy  and  respectable  farm- 
er!*, mechanics,  and  manufacturers  in  the  old  countries;  but  1  speak 
of  the  mass  of  the  people — the  labourers.      Wherever  their  situa- 
tion is  contrasted  with  that  of  the  same  class  here,  it  will  be  found 
that  the  contrast  is  greatly  in  favour  of  America.    In  those  countries 
where  the  feudal  system  prevails,  the  lands  are  nearly  all  entailed 
on  the  great  families,  who,  being  the  lords  of  the  soil,  are  also  Iti? 
lords  of  the  laws.      The  farmer  must  pay  a  high  rent  annually  for 
the  use  of  his  farm  :    he  may  get  a  lease,  perhaps,   for  a  number  ot 
years;  but  he  is  boimd  to  cultivate  the  ground  in  the  way  prescrib- 
ed by  the  tenure  of  thnt  lease.     If  he  improves  the  farm,  thein> 
provements  are  for  another — not  for  him ;    and  it  often  happen* 
that  at  tho  end  of  the  lease,  if  another  is  willing  to  give  oneshiliiii/l 
more  than  him,  or  if  the  proprietor  has  a  favourite,  or  wishes  to  turn 


NEW  YORK. 


515 


two  or  more  farms  into  one,  or  has  taken  umbrage  at  his  politics, 
or  his  religion,  or  any  thing  else  regarding  him  or  his  family,  he 
will  not  set  a  renewal  of  the  lease.  I  have  known  families  to  have 
been  ruined  in  tins  way.  Being  turned  out  oi'  their  farm,  they  re- 
lire  to  a  town  or  city,  where  their  substance  is  soon  spent,  and  they 
pine  away  in  poverty  and  wretchedness,  and  at  last  find  a  happy  re- 
lief in  the  cold  grave  I 

Compare  this  with  the  situation  of  the  American  farmer.  He 
cultivates  his  own  soil,  or  if  he  has  none  he  can  procure  it  in  sufTi- 
cient  quantity  for  200  or  300  dollars.  If  he  has  no  money,  he  can 
get  credit ;  and  all  that  is  necessary  to  redeemhis  credit  is  to  put 
forth  his  hand  and  be  industrious.  He  can  stand  erect  on  the  mid- 
dle of  his  farm  and  say  :  "  This  ground  is  mine :  from  the  highest 
canopy  of  heaven  down  to  the  lowest  depths,  I  can  claim  all  that  I 
can  get  possession  of  witliin  these  bounds — fowls  of  the  air,  fish  of 
the  sea,  and  all  that  pass  through  the  same !"  And  having  a  full 
share  of  consequence  in  the  political  scale,  his  equal  rights  are  gua- 
ranteed to  him.  None  dare  encroach  upon  him  ;  li  j  can  sit  under 
his  own  vine,  and  under  his  own  fig-tree,  and  none  to  make  him 
afraid. 

Look  at  the  mechanic  and  manufacturer :  In  A  mcrica  they  can 
cam  from  6  to  9  dollars  per  week,  and  have  provisions  so  reasonable 
that  they  can  maintain  themselves  in  ease  and  affluence,  and  accu- 
mulate property  for  old  age  and  for  their  offspring  ;  while  in  some 
of  the  old  countries  they  can  only  earn  about  as  many  shillings, 
while  provisions  are  so  dear,  that  it  is  with  difliculty  they  can  snp- 
port  a  wretched  existence.  Their  case  is  wretched,  indeed,  under 
those  governments,  which  by  a  refinement  of  cruelty  have  entailed 
this  further  curse  upon  them — that  except  by  stealth,  they  cannot, 
they  dare  not  leave  the  country. 


CHAPTER  CI. 

Leave  Batavia^ — Genesee  river, — Canandaigim. 

1  HERE  is  something  in  an  extensive  country  that  is  calculated 
to  enlarge  the  mind,  and  to  steel  the  body  against  the  fatigues  in- 
cident to  a  long  journey.  I  had  now  travelled  upwarils  of  2000 
miles  in  the  space  of  12  weeks,  during  which  1  do  not  thuik  I  ww* 


\ '  r:  III  I 


i  \M 


Ij  i-t 


^f: 


■  :':■  liri'tf 


•i,  M 


■4-i 


t-  ^  % 


516  TRAVELS   IN 

an  hour  idle.     Both  body  and  ntiud  had  been  incessantly  occupied, 
yet  I  fdt  little  fatigue;  the  recollection  of  the  scenery  I  had  passed 
over,  the  vast  variety  of  usetui  information  I  had  collected,  the  per- 
petual succession  of  fresh  objects,  ami  Llie  coll.ectiveview,in  my  mind's 
eye,  of  such  an  extended  country,  under  such  a  mild  government, 
all  conspired  to  produce  sensations  gratifyin^r  in  the  highest  degree ; 
and  1  am  a  convert  to  that  part  of  the  Bruuonian  system,  which 
attributes  support  to  the  body  from  salutary  stimulus  on  the  mind. 
It  was  as  natural  for  me  to  rise  at  the  dawn  of  day  as  to  call  for  my 
breakfast ;  if  I  met  with  company  on  the  road,  I  spoke  to  them ;  if 
they  were  going  the  same  way,  I  entered  into  conversation,  and  sel- 
dom failed  to  get  something  worth  putting  on  record.     If  I  travel- 
led alone,  I  had  an  ample  fund  for  meditation  and  reflection.  When 
I  stopped,  my  meals  were  short,  and  the  remaining  part  of  the  in- 
terval of  rest  was  employed  in  inquiry  and  recording.     My  even- 
ings, excepting  the  time  that  was  necessary  to  see  my  horse  taken 
care  of,  were  spent  in  the  same  way--  often  till  11  or  12  o'clock.    It 
was  gratifying  to  reflect  tliat  I  had  travelled  in  the  United  States 
upwards  of  7000  miles,  almost  a  stranger  in  the  country,  without 
any  other  passport  than  decent  respect  to  the  inhabitants,  which  I 
uniformly  met  with  in  return.     And  here  I  cannot  but  express  my 
surprise  at  the  invective  and  ill-natured  remarks  that  I  have  seen  in 
the  writings  of  some  travellers  through  this  country.     As  to  their 
general  sweeping  conclusions,  we  may  pass  them  over  as  the  mere 
cfflisions  of  ignorant  spleen  ;  but  the  particular  instances  of  rude- 
ness and  ungracious  reception  they  have  met  with,  merit  more  at- 
tention :  the  records  are  so  many  stigmas  upon  their  own  conduct. 
Strangers  may  meet  with  instances  of  rudeness  and  rough  treat- 
ment in  America — plenty  of  them ;  the  American  people  will  not 
tamely  submit  to  an  insult,  neither  collectively  nor  individually ; 
and  a  traveller  will  not  find  it  to  his  comfort  to  proceed  by  cursing 
the  waiter  for  doing  this,  and  damning  the  hostler  for  not  doing  that, 
and  threatening  to  send  Boots  to  hell,  if  his  leathern  conveniencies 
are  not  so  clear  as  he  can  see  his  shadow  in  them.     Some  people 
are  accustomed  to  travel  in  that  way  at  "  ome ;"  but  if  they  should 
happen  to  set  out  on  a  tour  through   America  in  the  same  style, 
they  will  soon  have  to  record  the  trophies  of  their  own  imprudence. 
There  are  no  waiters,  nor  hostlers,  nor  Boots*  here,  in  the  same 
sense  as  in  Britain ;  they  are  all  freemen,  equal  in  the  eye  of  the 
law,  and  in  the  scale  of  right.     They  know  their  power  in  the  body 


KEW   YORK. 


517 


politic,  and  will  not  relinquish  it ;  and  a  traveller  can  only  expect 
to  be  comfortable  by  adopting  a  suavity  of  manners  calculated  to 
secure  the  good  will  of  all ;  or,  as  the  apostle  Paul  expresses  him- 
self, by  "  becoming  all  things  to  all  men." 

In  this  humour  I  left  Batavia,  on  the  3  J  of  November,  after  a 
pretty  heavy  fain,  the  day  damp  and  chilly.  I  rode  six  miles  to 
Black  creek,  on  which  there  arc  falls  and  good  mill-seats,  two  miles 
below  the  road.  Four  miles  more  brought  me  to  Le  Roy,  situated 
on  Allen's  creek.  I  was  informed  the  place  had  been  somewhat 
sickly,  the  more  remarkable,  because  it  is  on  high  open  land  ;  but 
I  could  perceive  the  cause  in  a  large  mill-pond,  with  the  stumps  of 
trees  standing  in  it.  People  should,  if  possible,  avoid  makuig  mill- 
ponds  close  by  their  dwelling  houses ;  or  if  they  do,  they  should,  in 
mercy  to  themselves,  first  take  out  all  the  wood,  and  leave  nothing 
to  rot  in  the  water.  There  are  75  feet  falls  in  this  creek,  two  and 
a  half  miles  from  the  road. 

I  travelled  six  miles  more  to  McDonald's  tavern,  and  was  inform- 
ed that  there  was  a  Scots  settlement,  called  Caledonia,  about  four 
miles  off  the  road.  Indeed  Mr.  Ellicott  had  mentioned  it  to  me  be- 
fore. The  settlers  are  much  respected  for  their  industry,  sobriety, 
and  integrity.  Some  of  them  are  represented  as  not  beiig  very  nice 
in  the  article  of  cleanliness,  a  circumstance,  I  must  confess,  too  com- 
mon among  the  Scottish  peasantry;  but  their  solid  good  qualities 
speak  volumes  in  their  favour;  and  pursuing  agrici.ii'ure  in  Ame- 
rica, they  will,  no  doubt,  soon  correct  a  fault,  which,  though  not 
immoral,  is  disagreeable. 

From  hence  to  Genesee  river  is  nine  miles,  part  of  the  way  through 
large  openings,  and  towards  the  river  is  an  Indian  reservation,  con- 
taming  a  great  deal  of  excellent  bottom  land.  The  river  is  here 
a  considerable  stream  ;  but  very  muddy,  with  vast  quantities  of  de- 
caying vegetable  matter  about  its  banks,  which  sufficiently  accounts 
for  the  sickness  on  it ;  but  it  has  a  fine  descent,  aiid  the  banks  admit 
of  being  drained,  so  that  the  sickness  will  be  only  temporary ;  while 
the  fine  bottoms  on  it  will  insure  a  large  and  very  rich  settlement. 
There  are  four  large  falls  upon  the  river.  Two  of  them,  50  miles 
from  the  lake,  precipitate  the  water  90  and  60 — together,  150  feet ; 
and  two  more,  on  the  continuation  of  the  ridge  from  Lewistown,  six 
wiles  from  the  lake,  throw  it  down  75  and  96 — together,  171, — in 
all  321  feet.  This  shows  that  the  configuration  of  the  country  has 
undergone  a  change  from  the  falls  of  Niagara.  The  table  land  seems 
to  fall  one-half,  about  50  miles  from  Lake  Ontario. 


!  ' 

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if    ' 

i 


ni'  I 


518 


TRAVELS    IN 


After  crossing  the  river  by  a  pretty  good  bridge,  I  rose  b)'  a  fine 
elevated  bank  to  a  little  village  called  Avon.  I  was  now  in  Ontario  I 
county,  and  was  surprised  at  the  degree  of  cultivation  it  had  under- 
gone. Though  all  settled  within  20  years,  it  looked  like  an  old 
country.  The  houses  were  good,  and  the  fields  fertile.  But  I 
was,  above  all,  delighted  with  the  fine  views  which  ap])earcd] 
every  where  around  me.  I  had  long  travelled  through  low  land, 
and  the  country  so  much  covered  with  wood,  that  I  had  little  dis- 
tant prospect :  but  here  the  country"  swells  out  into  large  ridges, 
and  is  sufficiently  clear^w^^  to  see,  in  some  places,  to  a  great  dis- 
tance. Night  came  on,  and  I  hurried  to  a  tavern,  six  miles  from 
the  river,  where  I  stopped  all  night. 

I  was  informed  at  the  tavern  that  there  was  a  pretty  good  har- ' 
bour  at  the  outlet  of  the  Genesee  river,  to  which  there  was  a  good 
road,  distant  about  35  miles.  The  price  of  wheat  there  was  75 
cents  ber  bushel,  and  flour  in  proportion.  A  custom-house  is  si- 
tuated at  the  outlet  of  the  river,  and  a  vessel  had  lately  been  seized, 
having  smuggled  goods  on  board,  to  the  value  of  50,000  dollar?. 
Some  improved  farms  on  the  road  have  lately  been  sold  as  high 
as  40  dollars  per  acre. 

November  4th.     Clear  and  hard  frost. — I  started  before  sun- 
rise, and  passed  through  an  open   country,  rather  hilly,  but  the 
soil  all  arable,  five  miles  to  Honeoye  creek,  a  pretty  little  stream, 
which  issues  out  of  a  lake  of  the  same  name   a  few  miles  to  the 
south,  where  there  arc  three  more  lakes,  all  pretty  sheets  of  water, 
which  add  much  to  the  beauty  of  this  charming  country.    I  was  i 
now  in  the  township  of  Bloomfield,  and  passed  a  handsome  little  I 
village,  with  an  elegant  church  and  spire,   exhibiting  an  appear- 
ance very  much  resembling  those  in  New  England,  from  whence  | 
the  greater  number  of  the  settlers  here  have  originated.     I  passed 
on  through  a  fine  swelling,  open  country,  with  good  soil,  6  miles 
more,  to  another  village,  and  here  I  stopped  for  breakfast. 

This  is  also  a  very  pretty  village,  adorned  with  a  handsome 
church  and  spire.  1  was  informed  that  this  place  began  to  settle 
about  21  years  ago;  the  original  temporary  houses  have  nearly 
all  given  way  to  elegant  frame  and  brick  houses,  and  the  whole 
settlement  indicated  wealth,  and  rapid  improvement.  Land  in 
the  neighbourhood  is  good,  and  sells  by  the  improved  farm  at  30 
dollars  an  acre.  From  a  height  above  the  tavern,  I  had  a  fine 
view,  extending  to  the  north  and  north-east  30  miles. 


vided,  is  about  tc 


NEW    YORK. 


519 


From  Bloom  Belli  to  Canundaigua,  the  road  passes  over  a  fine 
rich  country,  abounding  in  splendid  views,  for  seven  miles.  On 
entering  Canandaigua,  I  was  really  surprised  at  the  beauty  of  the 
place,  and  the  surrounding  scenery.  The  lake  to  the  south,  and 
the  scenery  around  it,  forms  one  of  the  most  beautiful  landscapes 
to  be  seen  any  where ;  and  to  the  north,  on  the  brow  of  an  elevat- 
c(]  swelling  country,  stands  the  village ;  which  for  beauty  of  situa- 
tion, and  elegance  of  buildings,  is  decidedly  the  handsomest  vil- 
lage I  have  ever  yet  seen. 

Having  a  letter  of  introduction  to  Mr.  Seymour  of  this  place, 
a  gentleman  whom  I  became  acquainted  with  in  Scotland  14-  years 
ggo,  1  travelled  through  a  spacious  street  to  his  house,  where  I 
received  a  hospitable  welcome,  and  remained  two  days. 

Canandaigua  was  laid  out  from  20  to  21  years  ago.  The  main 
street  is  130  feet  wide,  and  extends  south  and  north  a  mile  and  a 
lialf,  and  there  is  a  centre  square,  and  several  cross  streets ;  but 
the  principal  buildings  are  on  the  main  street.  The  village  lots 
are  22  rods  in  front  by  6G  deep,  having  outlots  of  30  acres  an- 
nexed to  them ;  and  this  ground,  which  was  bought  20  years  ag<» 
lor  from  one  to  two  dollars  an  acre,  is  now,  by  the  improve- 
ments, and  progress  of  scttlenient,  worth  from  500  to  1000  dollars 
per  acre  for  the  village  lots,  and  from  80  to  100  for  the  outlots. 
The  ground  is  rich,  and  all  arable. 

Canandaigua  consists  of  about  120  houses,  containing  about  600 
inhabitants.  There  is  a  handsome  brick  court-house  in  the  centre 
square,  a  jail,  and,  on  the  most  elevated  ground  of  the  village,  au 
elegant  academy,  exhibiting  at  a  distance  a  beautiful  appearance. 
There  is  no  church,  but  an  elegant  one,  for  which  funds  are  i)ro- 
vided,  is  about  to  be  built.  I  have  before  noticed  that  the  houses 
are  handsome:  they  arc  moslly  -f  wood,  painted  white;  but  a 
"ood  many  have  of  late  been  built  of  brick,  which  are  best  calcu- 
lated for  this  part  of  the  country. 

As  Canandaigua  is  in  the  centre  of  a  remarkably  well  settled 
country,  it  has  a  very  considerable  retail  trade,  and  supports  six 
Uores,  many  of  which  do  a  great  deal  of  business ;  and  there  arc 
six  taverns.  A  great  deal  of  land  business  is  transacted  here,  of 
which  my  friend  Mr.  Seymour  has  a  large  share. 

I  have  uniformly  noticed,  throughout  my  travels,  that  a  settle- 
ment in  a  good  soil  and  favourable  climate  never  fails  to  succeed, 
whether  it  is  near  a  market  or  not;  whereas  a  settlement  in  au 


■'■A.> 


h,. 


''\  i-V 


ik-  y 


520 


TRAVKLS   IN 


unfavourable  soil,  or  unhealthy  climate,  however  favourable  its 
situation  tor  commerce,  is  precarious,  ami  subject  to  great  vicissi- 
tudes. The  balance  of  chances  is  against  it.  Numerous  instances 
occur  in  the  course  of  this  work  to  confirm  both  these  positions. 
A  very  striking  one  c^  the  former  exists  in  this  place.  Canan- 
daigua  is  far  from  a  markeb,  .yet  it  flourishes  in  a  very  eminent 
degree ;  the  people  have  not  foreign  commerce,  but,  what  is  in- 
finitely more  valuable,  they  have  elogant  fields,  and  orchards,  and 
flocks,  and  herds,  and  pure  air  and  fine  water,  and  freedom  from 
the  pollution  and  contamination  of  great  commercial  cities.  This 
is  principally  an  agricultural  village ;  the  most  of  the  people  have 
every  thing  within  themselves,  and  provisions  are  very  reasonable: 
flour  five  dollars  per  barrel ;  beef,  mutton,  and  veal  three  to  five 
cents  per  pound,  and  other  things  in  proportion.  There  are 
good  mechanics  in  the  village,  in  the  various  branches  calculated 
for  the  country,  and  they  have  good  wages.  Two  tan-yards  and 
two  distilleries  arc  the  principal  manufactories ;  there  is  but  little 
done  in  the  household  way  in  the  village,  but  a  great  deal  is  done 
in  the  country. 

The  inhabitants  are  mostly  from  New  England,  and  the  young 
ladies,  with  whom  the  village  abounds,  exhibit  the  appearance  of  the 
Yankee  ladies,  in  a  new  and  beautiful  edition,  with  great  im- 
provements. There  is  really  fine  a  society  at  Canandaigua.  Of  the 
learned  professors  they  have  on  ample  supply — indeed  I  should  be 
inclined  to  think  that  six  doctors  and  six  lawyers  were  too  many; 
but  it  is  to  be  recollected,  ihixt  in  an  agricultural  village  they  arc 
not  dependent  on  their  professions  alone,  but  can  have  their  prin- 
cipal supply  from  their  farms,  and  use  their  calling  principally  as 
a  recreation.  Some  of  the  country  lawyers  are  editors  of  news- 
papers, and  write  remarkably  well;  and  as  almost  every  district, 
or  village,  has  a  paper  on  each  side  of  the  great  political  question, 
it  is  in  no  danger  of  turning  stale  for  want  of  stirring;  there  are 
two  newspapers  here,  one  on  each  side,  and  they  battle  the  watch 
most  stoullv. 

Though  last  mentioned,  not  last  in  estimation,  education  is  well 
attended  to,  as  it  is  every  where,  when  the  settlement  consists 
principally  of  New  Englanders.  The  academy  is  endowed  with 
5000  acres  of  land,  and  schools  arc  on  such  u  footing  that  all  have 
access  to  them. 

The  view  cf  the  country  round  Canandaigua,  which  may  irt' 


NIW   YORK. 


121 


tlced  include  the  whole  county  of  Ontario^  is  valuable,  as  it  throws 
light  upon  the  future  destinies  of  ihat  part  of  America  often 
known  by  name  of  the  back  ivoodSf  or  the  wilderness. 

The  county  of  Ontario  is  about  44>  miles  long,  by  40  brond, 
and  contains  about  1760  square  miles  of  territory,  from  which  we 
may  deduct  60  miles  for  water.  Twenty  years  ago  this  was  a 
wilderness ;  but  the  wilderness  has  truly  been  made  to  become  a 
fruitful  field,  and  to  blossom  like  the  rose.  It  now  contains 
42,026  inhabitants,  being  nearly  25  to  the  square  mile ;  and  they 
are  rapidly  increasing  in  numbers,  in  wealth,  in  agriculture,  in 
manufactures,  and  the  mechanic  arts.  There  arc  in  the  county 
1903  looms,  37  tan-works,  76  distilleries,  .20  fulling  mills,  and  22 
carding  machines,  besides  some  glasa  works  and  potteries ;  and  I 
learned  that  cotton  and  woollen  factories  were  projected  near 
Canandaigua. 

Land,  which  was  bought  20  years  ago  at  1  dollar  an  acre, 
may  now  be  sold  in  some  places  at  50  dollars  ;  the  average  price 
of  land,  partly  cleared,  ma}'  be  about  8  to  25  dollars,  uncleared 
4  to  6  dollars;  but  in  the  vicinity  of  villages  nearly  10  dollars. 
Horses  40  to  75  dollars,  cows  20,  and  sheep  2  dollars. 

The  vast  increase  of  wealth  in  this  county  may  be  inferred  from 
this  circumstance — that  Canandaigua,  the  scite  of  which  20  years 
ago  would  have  been  reckoned  dear  at  2000  dollars,  was  estimated 
at  the  value  of  212,485  dollars  in  1809,  and  it  has  greatly  in- 
creased since ;  probably  the  property  is  now  worth  500,000  dollars. 


CHAPTER  CII. 


Leave  Canandaigua ^ — A  SmoJcing  Scene, — Geneva. 

UN  the  afternoon  of  the  6th  November,  the  weather  cool  and 
cloudy,  I  took  leave  of  Mr.  Seymour's  agreeable  family,  with  a 
view  of  travelling  to  Geneva  that  evening,  distant  16  miles;  but 
the  road  was  heavy,  and  I  was  obliged  to  stop  at  a  tavern,  six 
miles  short  of  the  village. 

The  fire  was  not  lighted  in  the  parlour,  and  1  sat  down  at  the 
fire  in  the  bar-room,  and  began  to  write  my  notes.  But  I  did 
not  long  enjoy  repose  in  this  situation ;  a  man  came  in  and  li<>ht- 
td  his  segar,  and  turning  his  backside   to  the  fire,    he   whillkl 

66 


682 


TIlAVl-LS   IN 


away,  at  the  ciul  ot*  every  two  or  three  puffs  squirting  a  mouthful 
ol"  ssilivii  through  the  room.     He  was  soon  joined  by  a  second  and 
a   third,     when    tliey  made  a  little  circle  roumi  the  fire.    They 
all  had  scgars,  and  I  was  soon  enveloped  in  smoke,  and  obliired 
to  siuit  my  papers.     Three  others  came  in  and  joined  the  parly. 
One  took  a  large  roll  of  tobacco  out  of  his  pocket,  and  taking  an 
immense  quid,  he  rolltd  it  about  in  his  mouth,  and  squirted  a- 
bout  tho  saliva  in  all  directions,  without  paying  much   rc<mrd  to 
who  might  come  in  contact   with  it.     Anotlier  pulled  a  pipe  out 
of  his  pocket,  and  the  third  joined  the   segur-smokers.     1  never 
was  so  annoyed  with  smoking  and  spitting  in  my  life.     1  like  to 
see  singular  scenes  occasionally,  even  though  they  should  be  rouwh 
ones;  but  this  scene  of  smoking,  and  chewing,  and  spitting,  was 
too  rough.     The  smokers  were  also  nasty  in  the  highest  degree, 
and  seemed  to  pay  no  attention  to  where  they  spat ;  in  the  fire,  on 
the  hearth,    or  the  floor;  the  face,    the  neck,    or    the  pocket; 
it  whs  all  one.     I  withdrew  from  the  scene,  and,  albeit  it  was  a 
very  cold  night,  I  was  fain  to  sit  down  in  the  furthest  corner  ol 
the  room,  by  a  broken  window.     But  this  did  not  secure  me  a- 
gainst  the  smokers ;  two  of  them  got  up  and  marched  through  the 
floor,  smoking  and  spitting,  and  I  was  finally  obliged  to  abandon 
the  scene  and  seek  refuge  elsewhere.     By  this  time  there  was  a 
fire  in  the  supper  parlour,  and,  soon  after,  supper  was  announced. 
After  supper,  I   began  to  write  up  my  notes,    when  two  of  the 
smokers  lighted  their  segars  beside  me,  and  began  to  smoke  and 
spit  almost  in  my  face.     At  last  one  of  them  perceivetl  nie  nuk- 
ing wry  faces,  and  said,  "  I'm  afraid  the  smoking  disturbs  yon." 
"  A  little,"  said  I,  my  face  sufficiently  indicative  of  my  feelings. 
On  which  they  very  civilly   withdrew,  and  left   me  in  quiet  pos- 
session of  a  good  clean  parlour,  the  value  of  which  was  enhanced 
by  the  dirty  scene  I  had  endured. 

I  have  often  been  surprised  how  men  should  get  into  the  habit 
of  ufcing  tobacco  in  any  shape,  but  especially  in  the  way  of  chew- 
ing and  smoking.  It  is  disagreeable  to  the  taste,  and  must  re- 
quire a  painful  eHort  to  karn  the  use  of  it  ;  when  learned,  it  hus, 
in  most  instances,  u  very  pernicious  effect  upon  the  body.  It  is 
a  powerful  stimulus,  but  its  principal  effect  is  on  the  glands,  tlic 
icsullan  immediate  discharge  of  saliva  by  the  month,  which  na- 
ture intended  for  the  stomach.  The  waste  mn:it  be  supplied,  and 
mot  of  my  rcadcrr.  know  liow.     The  medical   part  of  them  cnu 


NEW    '.'OnK. 


523 


tell  which  is  the  more  beneficial  to  hcahh,  the  stimulus  which 
nature  has  provided,  or  that  of  human  invention — grog.  "  Ciod 
made  man  upright,  but  they  huvc  soui^ht  out  many  inventions." 

November  7th.  The  morning  bein^r  calm,  cool,  and  cloudy,  I 
set  tbrward  on  my  journey  a  httle  after  day-break,  and  travelled 
by  an  indifferent  road,  but  leading  through  a  fertile  and  well -set- 
tled country,  to  Geneva,  which  I  reached  to  breakfast.  The 
view  here  is  not  so  commanding  as  at  Canandaigua,  but  it  is  equally, 
pretty,  and  the  Seneca  lake  is  much  more  extensive  than  the  lake 
at  Canandaigua.  The  road  leads  right  towards  the  banks  of  the 
take,  which  is  handsomely  skirted  with  gardens  and  inclosures, 
abng  which  the  road  turns  towards  an  eleojant  tavern,  balonging 
to  the  Pulteney  estate,  and  kept  by  a  Mr.Powel,  an  English- 
man.   There  I  stopped. 

After  breakfast  I  was  proceeding  to  make  some  inquiries  of  the 
landlord,  and,  among  other  questions,  asked  if  he  knew  Mr.  Fellows, 
an  Englishman,  and  the  intimate  friend  of  some  of  my  acquain- 
tances in  New  York.  He  told  me  that  he  was  in  the  village,  and 
sat  at  the  breakfast-table  with  me.  I  was  rejoiced  at  this  account, 
and  immediately  waited  on  him  at  the  land  office,  where  I  got 
a  great  variety  of  information.  I  was  urged  to  stay  some  time; 
but  the  season  was  far  advanced,  and  I  was  afraid  of  not  being 
in  Albany  in  time  to  go  down  the  river  by  the  steam-boat.  I 
pleaded  my  excuse,  and  after  walking  round. the  village,  and  get* 
ting  an  explanation  of  a  great  number  of  particulars  regarding  it, 
I  got  my  horse  in  order  to  depart,  and  my  friend  acompanied  me 
to  call  upon  some  Scotsmen  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  first 
was  a  Mr.  Scott,  who  has  been  settled  here  a  considerable  num- 
ber of  years,  and  has  a  fine  improving  farm,  of  great  value,  at 
the  head  of  the  lake.  From  thence  we  set  out,  Mr.  Scott  ac- 
companying us,  to  see  Mr.  Grieve,  situated  also  at  the  head  of  the 
take,  not  far  from  Mr.  Scott.  But  I  did  not  get  away  from  here  in 
such  a  hurry :  we  were  obliged  to  come  into  the  house,  and  make  a 
libation  to  the  honour  of  the  atdd  lady  that  sits  upon  the  "  craps 
o'  heather."  The  Scottish  stories  went  round j  the  time  wheeled 
away;  and  finally,  1  was  told  it  was  quite  too  late  to  think  of 
travelling  any  more  that  day ;  I  must  take  a  bed  at  Mr.  Grieve's. 
1  liked  my  company,  and  was  not  very  dilHcult  to  persuade ; 
and  "please  the  lortl  Harry,"  as  squire  Western  said,  "we  hud 
a  night  o't." 


524 


TRAVELS   IN 


Mr.  Grieve  had  some  fine  peach-brandy,  which  soon  brought  uh 
all  under  the  influence  of  the  same  spirit;  "  the  night  drove  on  wi' 
sangs  and  clatter"  till  a  late  hour,  when,  "  all  parties  pleased," 
our  friends  took  their  leave,  appointing  to  meet  in  the  morninr^  to 
breakfast. 

Our  morning  conversation  principally  related  to  the  more  im- 
mediate  business  for  which  I  undertook  the  journey ;  and  1  ^ot 
some  important  additional  information  regarding  this  part  of  the 
country,  the  substance  of  which  I  shall  condense  in  a  few  remarks, 
and  close  this  chapter. 

Geneva  is  situated  at  the  west  side  of  the  north  end  of  Seneca 
lake,  on  a  level  bank,  elevated  about  20  feet  above  the  water.  It 
is  regularly  laid  out  in  streets  and  lots,  witli  a  square  in  the  centre. 
The  main  street  is  6  rods  wide,  and  the  lots  are  three*fouths  of  an 
acrt,  and  worth,  at  present,  from  200  to  2000  dollars.  The  out* 
lots  consist  of  8  acres.  Those  that  range  next  the  village  arc 
worth  from  30  to  60  dollars  per  acre. 

The  village  consists  of  about  200  houses,  containing  about  1000 
inhabitants ;  and  they  are  fast  increasing.  The  markets  are  near- 
ly the  same  as  at  Canandaigua :  house  rent  for  mechanics  is  about 
50  dollars  per  annum ;  wood  I  dollar  25  cents  per  cord,  laid  down ; 
flour  2  dollars  50  cents  per  cwt ;  beef,  mutton,  &c.  3  to  5  cents 
per  lb. ;  poultry  6  cents  per  lb. ;  mechanics'  board  2  dollars  per  week. 

There  are  two  tan-works  and  3  distilleries ;  and  a  brewery  is  c- 
recting,  and  will  soon  be  in  operation.  There  are  3  hatters,  3 
blacksmiths,  S  masons,  12  carpenters,  2  cabinet-makers,  2  watch, 
makers  and  silver-smiths,  and  two  apothecaries.  Blacksmiths, 
masons,  carpenters,  and  cabinet-makers  are  in  request,  and  would 
meet  with  good  encouragement.  Wages  may  be  quoted ;  masons 
1  dollar  50  cents  per  day ;  carpenters^the  same ;  labourers  1  dollar; 
smith's  work  is  25  cents  per  lb. 

The  face  of  the  country  here  is  agreeably  uneven,  and  beauti- 
fully diversified.  The  most  prominent  object  is  Seneca  lake,  which 
is  not  only  ornamental,  but  highly  useful ;  affording  a  water  con- 
veyance its  whole  length,  nearly  50  miles.  It  joins  Crooked  lake 
by  a  stream,  and  the  outlet  is  by  a  fine  river  in  the  neighbourhood, 
of  this  place.  The  waters  of  the  lake  are  very  deep,  and  do  not 
freeze  in  winter,  although  the  cold  is  sometimes  very  intense.  It 
abounds  with  fish,  such  as  salmon,  trout,  &c. 

The  soil  is  various,  but  a  great  deal  of  it  is  good.    The  timber 


MKW    YORK. 


525 


ii  beech,  maple,  oak,  hickory,  black  walnut,  &c. ;  and  a  good  deal 
of  hemlock  grows  along  the  banks  of  the  lake. 

The  Pultcney  estate  sells  from  2  to  4  dollars  an  acre,  on  a  credit 
of  from  4  to  7  years,  and  interest  from  the  date  of  sale.  The  set- 
tlers are  very  mixed,  consisting  of  Yankees,  English,  Scottish,  and 
Dutch :  and  they  are  generally  doing  well.  On  one  township 
there  is  a  colony  of  English  settlers,  who  are  thriving  remarkably 
well.  They  came  to  the  settlement  very  poor,  and  are  getting 
wealthy ;  and,  thankful  for  the  blessings  they  enjoy,  they  are  good 
republicans.  They  have  improved  in  morals  and  intellect  since 
their  settlement  here,  and,  as  they  have  adopted  the  manners  of 
the  country,  they  arc  much  respected  by  their  neighbours. 

Sheep  thrive  remarkably  well.  The  South  Down  breed  has 
been  introduced  with  good  effect,  and,  latterly,  the  merino  breed, 
of  which  colonel  Troup,  the  agent,  has  sent  4  rams  for  the  use  of 
the  settlement. 

The  woollen  manufacture  is  general  in  families,  and  there  arc  se- 
veral carding  and  roving  machines.  A  glass-work  has  been  recent- 
ly erected  on  the  banks  of  the  lake,  and  several  cotton  and  woollen 
factories  are  projected.  The  spirit  is  general  for  encouraging  do- 
mestic manufactures ;  and  good  builders  and  machine-makers  are 
in  great  demand. 

The  principal  articles  for  sale  are  wheat  and  ashes,  which  are 
carried  to  Montreal  and  Albany ;  and  cattle  are  carried  to  New 
York  and  Philadelphia.  The  imports  are  dry-goods,  groceries 
iron-ware,  and  crockery. 

1  received  from  Mr.  Scott  a  register  of  the  weather,  kept  by 
him  in  the  years  1799  and  1800,  from  which  I  make  the  following 
abstract.  Geneva  is  near  the  centre,  and  may  be  considered  as  af- 
fording a  pretty  fair  view  of  the  climate  of  the  western  part  of  the 
state  of  New  York, 


M. 


'^M 


'  ,1 


w 

TAAVEU 

IN 

'rh«mioni«ter. 

"Weather. 

"     ^^^r«^^■■-  . 

E 

r 

2 

1 

M 

;« 

i\r/: 

as  « 

■ 

1 

^ 

* 

Vj 

?! 

_«! 

r^ 

_" 

17!)9. 

1 

1 

Soptenibcr, 

«o<= 

50° 

60° 

9 

5 

3 

fi 

3 

4 

1 

Octol>er, 

01 

31 

52 

11 

10 

2 

1 

7 

9 

6 

NovemlKT, 

59 

28 

•41 

10 

14 

1'  4 

3    4 

7 

11 

2 

December 

42 

C 

30 

a 

9 

1'  7 

3(3 

7 

•s 

1 

4 

lilOO. 

January, 

'JO 

6 

25 

11 

15 

4 

3   3 

6 

10 

Febriiarf, 

4f) 

5 

2« 

12 

5 

[10 

7 

1011 

March, 

44 

18 

35 

010 

'•^1  ^ 

9 

5 

11 

1 

April, 

74 

39 

53 

9   « 

6!    1 

5 

10 

6 

1 

May, 

75 

48 

61 

lOl  4 

3 

3   fi 

6 

2 

June, 

R'i 

55 

71 

15    1 

2 

3   3 

5 

5 

1 

July. 

92 

63 

82 

I5I  5 

1 

8   2 

4 

G 

1 

12084 

^231 

4128f;7|82 

23|  4 

~i 

The  month  of  August  was  not  inserted  in  the  register ,  but  ir 
may  be  reckoned  nearly  the  same  as  June,  or  a  medium  between 
June  and  July. 

The  first  snow  was  on  the  1st  of  November. 

The  coldest  day  was  on  the  10th  of  February,  wind  north»  and 
clear. 

The  snow  was  deepest  on  the  15th  of  February,  being  4  feet.* 

It  thundered  on  the  1 8th  of  March. 

Pigeons  were  seen  upon  the  25th  of  March. 

Grass  appeared  upon  the  4th  of  April. 

Maple-tree  leaves  appeared  on  the  19th. 

The  warmest  day  was  on  the  1 0th  of  July,  wind  west. 

The  prevailing  winds  are  south,  south-west,  west  and  north  west. 

The  north-west  winds  are  frequently  accompanied  with  clouds 
and  rain,  and  the  south  and  south-west  winds  are  frequently  clear 
and  dry.  The  reasons  are  obvious :  the  great  lakes  have  a  tenden- 
cy to  affect  the  one,  while  the  mountains  affect  the  other. 

Easterly  winds  are  very  rare. 

Geneva  is  in  latitude  42**  SO',  being  nearly  parallel  to  Ncwburj- 
port  in  America,  and  Cape  Finisterre,  in  Portugal.  It  is  exactly  in 
the  meridian  of  Washington  city,  and  a  little  to  the  eastward  oi 
Carlisle,  in  Pennsylvania. 


Lfave  Genni 


*  It  is  proper  to  remark,  that  the  winter  of  1799  1800  was  the  coldest,  and  thesBon 
the  deepest,  that  ever  was  known  in  this  part  of  the  country. 


NEW    YORK. 


CHAPTER  cm. 


m 


Leave  Geneva, — AuhutHy — Sleneatelt'ss,    Onondago^ — Mcnliir* 

Square, —  Uiica. 

I  PARTED  with  my  agreeable  friends  at  Geneva  at  10  o'cloci^. 
Tiic  morning  was  cool  and  cloudy,  with  a  strong  south  wind.  I 
paskcd  along  from  the  head  of  the  lake  by  good  bottom  lands ;  but 
the  soil  soon  becomes  poor  and  sandy;  ani  I  travelled  through 
some  pine  woods,  the  first  I  had  seen  siut^  1  })Asseil  the  Allegany 
mountains.  I  travelled  a  little  way  along  the  side  of  Seneca  river, 
and  crossed  it  by  a  bridge  at  the  falls,  where  I  obtiervcd  numerous 
mills;  among  others,  a  fulling-mill,  and  carding-machine.  Three 
miles  from  thence  I  passed  through  pretty  gixwl  lanti,  and  thick 
settlements,  to  Cayuga  lake,  about  a  mile  brond,  and  I  crossed  it 
by  a  flat  boat  with  a  sail.  A  bridge  was  erected  here,  but  it  broke 
down  about  three  years  ago,  and  the  remains  of  it  are  still  to  be 
seen.  I  learned  that  another  would  be  erected  soon.  The  lake  is 
shallow,  ami  fret»zcs  in  winter.  Cayuga  village  stands  in  a  pretty 
elevated  situation,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  lake,  and  contains  20 
dwelling-houses,  2  taverns,  and  2  stores.  There  is  an  inconsider- 
able trade  upon  the  lake  and  river,  in  salt  upwards,  and  flour 
downwards. 

Seneca  river,  after  passing  Into  the  lake  at  the  north  end,  re- 
issues a  little  to  the  eastward,  and,  running  a  north  and  east  course 
to  Cross  lake,  it  receives  the  waters  of  Canandaigua  lake,  Owasco 
lake,  and  Skencatelcss,  besides  those  of  smaller  note.  Prom  Cross 
lake  it  makes  a  bend  by  the  north  and  east,  and  receives  the  waters 
of  Onondago  lake,  when  it  turns  to  the  north,  and  forms  a  junc- 
tion with  Oneida  river,  when  the  two  rivers  united,  assuming  the 
name  of  Oswego  river,  pursues  a  north-west  course  to  Luke  Onta- 
rio, in  its  progress  passing  over  a  ridge,  by  a  fall  of  10  feet  per- 
pondicular,  and  from  thence  it  has  a  very  rapid  current  for  12  miles 
to  Lake  Ontario. 

Here  I  fell  in  with  two  travellers  going  to  the  eastward,  with 
whom  I  kept  company,  and  passing  on  6  miles,  we  arrived  at  Au- 
burn, on  the  Owasco  river,  where  we  stopped  all  night.  In  the  course 
ot  iW  day,  I  passed  from  20  to  30  families  moving  to  the  westward. 

AuBURM  is  the  seat  of  justice  of  Cayuga  county.     It  was  laid 


^■-     % 


f  , 


I 


<\\ 


u»Hil 


•1  ■ 


M; 


628 


TRAVELS    IK 


out  10  years  ago,  and  now  contains  about  100  houses,  and  (500  in- 
li.  hitants.  The  public  buildings  arc  a  court-house,  jail,  church, 
and  academy,  and  there  are  8  stores,  3  taverns,  and  a  weekly  news- 
j)apcr.  There  are  small  falls  on  the  river  at  this  place,  which  af- 
ford water  for  3  grist-mills,  1  saw-mill,  1  trip-hammer,  1  oil-mill, 
4  carding  machines,  and  3  fulling-mills ;  and  there  are  in  the  town 
3  tanneries,  3  distilleries,  2  hat  factories,  and  4>  smiths'  forges. 

November  9.  The  morning  was  cloudy  and  agreeable.  I  tra" 
veiled  to  Skeneateless,  7  miles,  to  breakfast.  The  road  very  mud- 
dy ;  the  soil  black  loam  and  clay ;  the  face  of  the  country  uneven, 
but  not  hilly ;  and  the  grounds  pretty  well  cleared  of  timber,  ex- 
cept the  roots,  which  stood  up  all  along  the  road,  so  many  wit- 
nesses that  this  is  a  new  country.  I  passed  a  number  of  waggons 
moving  to  the  westward,  and  saw  some  travellers  walking  on  foot 
eastward,  one  of  whom  told  he  was  from  Grand  river,  on  Lake 
Eric,  and  was  going  to  Connecticut,  which  journey,  600  miles,  he 
expected  to  perform  in  20  days. 

Skeneateless  is  a  beautiful  little  place,  situated  at  the  outlet  ol 
the  lake  of  the  same  name.  It  was  laid  out  about  15  vears  aco, 
and  contains  about  60  houses,  and  350  inhabitants.  The  village  lots 
are  30  feet  by  60,  and  are  worth  about  200  dollars ;  and  the  out-lots 
sell  for  about  500  dollars  an  acre.  There  is  a  congregational 
church,  with  a  Iiandsome  spire,  situated  upon  the  top  of  the  hill ; 
and  there  are  in  the  village  4  stores  and  2  taverns.  The  principal 
occupations  are  2  carpenters,  2  masons,  2  blacksmiths,  1  watch- 
maker, 2  cabinet-makers,  1  taylor,  1  hatter,  1  tanner,  1  shoe- 
maker, 2  coopers,  1  painter,  i  dyer,  2  doctors,  4  lawyers,  1  cler- 
gyman, and  2  schoolmasters,  who  teach  at  2  dollars  per  quarter. 
There  are  falls  on  the  river,  which  issues  from  the  lake,  and  the 
water  turns  2  fulling-mills,  a  grist-mill,  and  a  saw-mill ;  and  a 
brick- yard  and  2  distilleries  are  in  the  neighbourhood.  A  great 
quantity  of  woollen  cloth  is  manufactured  here,  and  manufactories 
generally  are  increasing.  The  situation  is  healthy,  and  the  view 
along  the  bke  is  beautiful. 

After  breakfast  I  passed  the  outlet  by  a  wooden  bridge,  immedi- 
ately below  which  are  the  mills  and  mill-dam.  1  observed  a  boy 
fishing,  and  saw  several  very  pretty  trout  lying  on  the  bridge.  I  in- 
quired how  long  he  had  been  in  catching  theni ;  he  answered  about 
live  minutes.  Just  as  ho  spoke  he  pnlled  up  a  large  salmon-trout, 
and  J  stopped  about  i  minutes,  during  ;vhich  he  caught  three  or  four  i 


I"- 


NEW     YOHK. 


529 


more.  It  was  the  finest  fishing  I  ever  saw;  and  the  trout  were 
beautiful. 

From  hence  I  passed  over  six  miles,  the  soil  nc!wly  as  before  de- 
scribed, and  the  country  uneven;  and  three  miles  further  on  I  pass- 
ed a  fine  stream  rumiing  to  the  northward  in  a  hollow,  on  whio)i 
is  a  handsome  settlement  of  30  houses,  with  a  (^rist-mill,  saw-mill, 
and  fulling-mill.  To  the  east  of  this  tliere  is  a  large  clearing,  and 
a  congregational  church,  but  it  looks  humble  for  want  of  a  spire. 
The  country  now  becomes  more  hilly,  and  alfords  many  fine  views, 
the  greatest  extent  being  to  the  northward.  The  road  was  vejy 
muddy,  and  composed  of  a  stilf  red  clay  ;  the  soil  was  generally 
good,  a  black  mould  being  above  the  clay ;  and  the  timber  connisl- 
ed  of  every  variety  ;  in  most  places  \yjvch  was  predominant. 

Eight  miles  brought  me  to  Onondago  court-hotsse,  a  small  place 
consisting  of  23  houses,  3  stores,  and  2  taverns  ;  and  a  mile  boyond 
this,  in  a  deep  valley  called  Onondago  Hollow,  stan;l.>j  a  very  hand- 
some village,  consisting  of  10  dwelling  houses,  having  an  clogp.nt 
brick  church,  with  a  spire.  A  creek  of  clear  water  runs  through 
the  hollow  to  the  north,  and  drives  nnmy  mills ;  and  in  front  of  the 
road,  on  the  brow  of  a  hill,  is  a  handsome  state-arsenal,  built  of 
hewn  stone.  The  view  here  reminded  me  of  sortie  of  the  scenery 
in  the  state  of  Ohio.* 


ill 

^P  ^1  H 

li 

'II 
1b  M 

^  '     iili 


i  ; 


•  To  tlie  nortli  of  this  about  five  or  six  miles,  are  the  colel»rateJ  Oiionit'.go  salt-works  ; 
as  I  did  not  turn  out  of  my  way  to  view  them,  I  shall  transcribe  an  account  of  them 
from  Schultz's  Travels. 

"  The  town  of  Salina  is  situated  on  a  bank  fifty  feet  a'jove  thu  creek  and  marsh  in  front, 
and  contains  about  fifty  houseu,  some  of  wliich  make  a  rcspectalde  aiipcaranco.  The 
country  iinmediately  around  the  town  appears  to  be  a  stilT  bairen  clay  ;  and  wood,  i'vom 
the  vast  consumption  of  the  furnaces,  has  already  liecoa.j  scarce.  Tlie  wliolc  <radeol 
this  village  arises  from  the  manufacture  of  salt;  nor  Jo  I  believe  there  i;;  a  iiingle  iiuli- 
vidual  in  the  town  who  is  not  concerned  in  the  trade.  The  salt-springs  are  Ibiuid  on  ihp 
margin  of  an  extensive  marsh,  not  imlike,  in  appearance,  to  the  salt  niiv.shes  of  llo- 
boken.  Tlie  furnaces  are  generally  placed  a  lit'le  way  up  the  bank,  and  the  works  ar^ 
Mippliedby  hand  and  horse  pumps.  At  jjrcsent  they  have  about  300  keltlps  at  this  [ilaci/, 
and  at  Liverpool,  (two  miles  north)  144  ;  ail  these  are  'cpt  in  co.istant  opiM-.itio'i,  both 
'lay  and  night,  and  produce  about  two  thousand  lour  hundred  bushels  per  day.  I  Vom 
the  inexhaustible  nature  of  these  springs  and  tlie  increasing  population,  and  cdm  ei|Ui.iit 
demand  for  salt,  thei .  can  be  no  doubt  but  that  Salina  will  become  llie  Lr^cst  irilan  I 
town  in  the  state. 

"  To  the  eye  the  Onondago  sail  appears  equal  to  that  frori  Tuiks  Island  ;  yet,  al- 
thougii  it  is  as  clear  and  white  as  the  latter,  it  is  found  to  be  from  four  to  five  |)o;i:iil; 
lighter  in  the  bushel.  No  other  salt,  liowcver,  is  used  in  this  country,  and  a  gre.it  part 
M  the  states  of  Pennsylvania,  Virginia,  Ohio,  and  IMithignn  IVnitory,  ui  likewise  the, 

«7 


m 


>■:■   K 


.   3 


w- 


530 


TRAVELS   IN 


The  road,  immediately  after  passing  this  hollow,  winds  up  the  hill 
to  a  considerable  height.  The  bottom  of  it  is  improved ;  but  the 
soil  is  inferior,  and  we  saw  a  good  deal  of  pine  wootl.  In  my  pro- 
gress I  saw  Onondago  lake,  and  arriving  at  Manlius  Square,  10  mile* 
irom  Onondago  Hollow,  at  dark,  1  stopped  all  night. 

Manlius  S(juare  has  been  settled  about  12  years,  and  now  con 
tains  about  60  dwelUng  houses,  3  taverns,  and  6  stores,  2  grist  mills, 
an  oil-null,  a  fulling-mill,  a  carding  machine,  and  a  dye-house,  2 
tan- yards,  and  2  hat-factories.  The  lots  are  a  quarter  of  an  acre 
each,  and  are  worth  from  250  to  500  dollars ;  improved  land  in  the 
neighbourhood  sells  for  from  10  to  30  dollars  per  acre.  Manufac- 
lui'cs  are  progressing  in  the  town  and  neighbourhood.  Two  com- 
panies have  been  formed  for  carrying  on  glass  and  iron  works,  ami 
a  vast  quantity  of  woollen  cloth  is  made  through  the  country. 

November  10.  I  found  there  had  been  a  good  deal  of  rain  dur- 
in<T  the  night,  and  it  rained  a  little  this  morning;  the  wind  was  from 
the  uorth-wesl,  and  the  weather  cool.  I  travelled  over  a  pretty  de- 
vated  hilly  country,  six  n)iles,  to  Canaserago  Hollow,  to  breakfast. 
The  road  was  very  had ;  but  the  fatigue  of  travelling  was  in  part 
compensated  by  the  view,  which  was  beautiful,  and  extended  atone 
place  across  Oneida  lake. 

The  road  was  undergoing  rcpafr  at  this  place,  the  work  beinnr  su- 
perintended by  judge  Young,  a  gentleman  who  settled  Youngstown, 
in  the  state  of  Ohio.  I  met  with  the  judge  at  the  tavern,  and  re- 
ceived a  tjood  deal  of  information  from  hind. 

A  mile  and  a  half  from  where  1  breakfasted  I  passed  through  Ca- 

wlicle  of  Upper,  and  a  considerable  part  of  Lower  Canada,  are  wholly  supplied  from 
thest  works. 

"  [  examined  tlie  several  springs  used  in  manufacturing  this  necessary  article  of  life; 
and  t.iough  there  was  a  considerable  variation  in  their  degrees  of  strengtli,  yet  I  found 
them  all  nearly  three  tim«?s  as  strong  as  sea  water,  I  likewise  found  a  most  excellent  spring 
of  fresh  water  in  the  same  place,  and  witliin  two  rods  of  a  very  strong  salt-spring.  I  no- 
ticed, however,  that  this  issued  from  the  surface  of  a  stratum  of  clay,  which  lay  about  six 
inches  higher  than  those  that  were  salt.  I  have  just  remarked  that  there  is  a  considerj- 
ble  difl'erence  in  the  relative  strength  of  the  waters  of  these  springs  ;  and  I  have  been  in- 
formed by  the  manuf.icturers  that  some  will  require  but  ninety,  while  others  take  one  iuui- 
dreil  and  twenty  gallons  of  water  to  jwoduce  one  bushel  of  salt.  You  will  also  readily 
perceive  that  the  quality  of  the  water  must  be  very  materially  aftected  by  ever  /change  ol 
Hi.  weather,  and  consequently  stronger  in  a  dry  than  in  a  wet  season. 

"  The  price  of  salt  at  the  works  is  incredibly  low,  being  no  more  than  from  25  to  3 1 
cents  per  bushel  of.'i6lbs..  or  '2  dolkrs  25  cents  a  barrel,  containing  5  bushels,  iiicluding 
the  price  of  the  barrel,  and  in-.^  tction  fees." 


il 


f> 


NBW  YORK. 


531 


nascrago,  a  handsome  village,  consisting  of  about  20  frame  houses, 
painted  white.  At  3  o'clock  I  passed  Oneida  creek,  on  which  there 
is  a  considerable  settlement  of  Indians.  The  land  here  is  sandy  and 
level,  and  covered  with  pine  woods;  l»iit  the  country  round  is  V  'My, 
and  the  soil  good.  The  road  passes  a  little  village  called  Vernon, 
and  proceeds  throu;r}i  a  thickly-settled  country,  with  good  landi 
and  {)!enty  of  taverns  by  the  way.  Towards  evening  I  came  to  u 
sign-post  pointing  to  the  left,  on  which  was  painted  in  large  cha- 
lacters,  cTt"  /o  Ulka  16  miles.  I  turned  a!»ide,  according  to  the  di- 
/ection  given ;  but  I  soon  f(iund  the  road  near  ly  impassable,  and 
turned  back  to  nuiki'  inquiry.  When  I  regained  the  turnpike,  a 
traveller  came  forward,  and  told  me  to  keep  the  straight  road — the 
sign-post  was  an  imposition,  and  merited  no  attention.  It  was  a 
decoy  to  induce  travellers  to  take  a  very  bad  road  that  led  three  or 
four  miles  round,  in  order  that  some  tavern-keepers  might  make  a 
little  money  by  them.  *'  O,  money  I"  exclaimed  I,  "  the  love  of  thee 
is  the  root  of  all  evil.  In  this  case  thou  hast  almost  extorted 
the  malediction  recorded  in  the  bible,  *  cursed  is  he  that  turneth  the 
traveller  out  of  his  way.'  "  1  kept  company  with  this  new  acquaint- 
ance, and  we  travelled  five  miles  to  Laird's  tavern,  where  we  stop- 
ped for  the  night,  1 1  miles  from  U-  xa. 

November  1 1 .  Being  anxious  lo  get  to  Utica  early,  I  set  out  at 
dav-litrht,  and  the  discreet  traveller  whom  I  fell  in  with  last  nijiht 
kept  me  company.  We  travelled  through  a  pretty  hilly  country, 
and  good  hard  road,  with  improved  farms  on  each  side,  seven  miki> 
to  Hartford,  situated  on  a  little  stream  that  i'alU  into  the  Mohawk, 
and  is  rapidly  advancing  in  manufactures.  Some  cotton-works  had 
been  recently  erected.  We  stopped  here  while  I  got  a  shoe  put  on 
my  horse,  and  I  observed  in  the  smith's  forge  a  pair  of  bellows  on  a 
new  construction,  tor  which  a  patent  had  been  obtained.  The  prin- 
ciple was  prcci.-ely  the  same  as  the  common  bellows ;  but  the  appli- 
cation is  an  evident  improvement.  The  air  in  collected  in  a  circu- 
lar wooden  cylinder,  having  moveable  pistons  above  and  below, 
fixed  tc  the  cylinder  with  leather,  so  as  to  allow  them  ujotion,  and 
at  the  same  time  keep  the  interior  of  the  vessel  air  tight.  The  air 
has  ingress  below  a  valve,  and  has  egress  from  the  side  of  the  cylin- 
der b)  a  tube  leading  to  the  forge.  The  advantages  over  the  com- 
mon bellows  are  tlurability,  compactness,  and  cheapness. 

The  road  and  country  continue  nearly  the  same  as  already  de« 
scribed;  4;  miles,  to  Utica.    In  our  nrogressj  my  fellow-travelbr  told 


('. 


K:; 


Wf- 


533 


TRAVELS   IN 


mc  he  was  settled  in  New  Connecticut,  to  which  he  hail  emigrated 
from  Lower  Caiiada,  not  far  from  the  American  line  on  New  Hamp- 
shire.  lie  was  highly  pleased  with  thcchanorehc  had  made.  His 
chief  objection  to  Canada  was  the  long  severe  winters,  the  haughti- 
ness of  the  soldiery,  and  the  encouragement  of  spies  and  informers* 
by  which  means  the  best  citizens  were  liable  to  become  a  prey  to  the 
worst,  lie  allirmcd  that  the  people  in  that  district  were  universally 
dissatisfied,  and  a  war  with  the  United  States  would  be  the  signal 
for  revolt,  if  it  was  seen  that  the  United  States  had  an  army  suffi- 
ciently powerful  to  support  them. 

As  we  approached  towards  Ucica,  I  was  quite  surprised  with  the 
appearance  of  the  country  ;  the  houses  were  so  thick,  that  it  was  for 
a  considerable  way  like  a  continued  village.  Many  of  the  buildings 
were  elegant,  with  fine  orchards  attached  to  them,  and  the  plots  of 
ground  adjoining  were  fertile  and  elegantly  cultivated  ;  while  the 
lands  at  a  little  distance  formed  a  singular  contrast.  They  were 
bare  of  trees  to  a  considerable  distance;  but  the  stumps  were  pro- 
fusely scattered  over  the  surface — a  sure  indication  that  the  coun- 
try had  not  long  been  the  habitation  of  man.  This  is,  indeed,  a 
new  country;  but  society  has  made  most  rapid  progress — the  more 
so,  of  course,  that  it  is  immediately  contiguous  to  the  old ;  and  Uti- 
ca,  which  we  reached  at  9  o'clock,  may  be  termed  the  key  to  the 
western  country. 


CflAPTER  CIV. 

Ulica, — llcDiarfcs  on   the  Grand  Canal, — Foreign  and  Intcriml 
Commerce  and  Manii/aetiircs. 


V  my  progress  throiiah  the  western  parts  of  the  state  of  New 
York,  the  grand  canal  liad  frecjuenlly  become  the  topic  of  conver- 
sation; but  it  did  not  appear  to  have  excited  that  interest  there 
that  might  Iiavc  been  expected  from  a  work  of  such  magnitude.  It 
ha:' l)ecn  differently  viewed  at  Utica.  * 

Til?  pjrarul  canal,  it  was  presumed,  would  recruit  the  drooping 
commr:  ;c  of  the  town,  re-animate  the  spirit  for  building,  restore  con- 
fidence in  til-'  future  greatness  of  the  j)lace,  and  improve  the  price 
oflots.  My  individual  opinion  of  the  canal  was  by  this  time  form- 
ed, and  when  I  frankly  stated  it,  1  was  often  mortified  to  find  that 


NEW   YORK. 


533 


it  was  very  uncongenial  to  the  fond  anticipation  of  iny  friends.  I 
always  make  it  a  rule,  however,  to  be  candid,  and  to  speak  what  I 
think.  I  have  not  yet  learned  the  hnppy  facility  of  "  booing  to  the 
great  mon,"  and  1  am  now  too  old  to  learn.  A  candid  opinion, 
founded  upon  examination,  though  it  should  be  even  incorrect,  is 
ot"  more  service  to  the  cause  of  truth  than  a  complaisant  acquies- 
cence without  any  examination  at  all ;  and  every  person  who  states 
his  o}iinion  candidly  and  discreetly,  will  receive  the  approbation  of 
the  wise  and  the  good  ;  the  rest  are  not  worth  caring  for.  My  can- 
did opinion  then  was  that  there  would  probably  be  no  grand  canal, 
(the  reasoiis  I  shall  give  hereafter;)  and  that  the  people  of  Utica 
would  deceive  themselves  it  they  looked  for  relief  to  their  drooping 
commerce  from  that  tjuartcr.  But  I  saw  that  Utica  was  piobably 
destined  to  be  re-animated  ni  another  way.  I  think  it  will  become 
one  of  the  greatest  manufacturing  districts  in  the  United  States; 
and  in  that  view  I  proceed  to  con.-ider  it. 

It  may  be  proper  first  to  glance  at  Utica  as  regards  foreign  com- 
merce. By  looking  at  the  map,  it  will  be  seen  that  Utica  la  on  the 
Moliawk  river,  near  the  hcadof  nnvigati;.n,  100  miles  from  Albany. 
The  mountainous  district  commences  hero,  and  continues  to  within 
60  miles  of  New  York,  and  to  the  nor'.h  and  west  is  a  fine  cham- 
paign country,  wliich,  since  it  began  to  .settle,  has  proceeded  with 
a  rapidity  of  improvement  that  has  no  parallel  on  earth,  except  in 
the  state  of  Ohio.  While  this  western  country  was  in  its  infancy, 
the  first  employment  of  the  settlers  was  to  clear  the  ground,  and 
raise  a  little  grain  and  pork  for  sale;  i  id  with  the  jirocceds 
provide  various  supplies  for  their  families.  Having  no  other  mar- 
!:et,  except  the  low  country,  and  no  resources  within  themselvc?, 
this  trade  centered  iiVet  at  Albany,  and  was  very  beneficial  to  it. 
About  2'J  years  ago,  a  settlement  was  commenced  at  Utica,  in  which 
the  stores  were  well  sufiplied  with  dry  goods  and  groceries,  and  with 
cash  to  purchase  produce.  It  was  found  to  be  a  saving  to  the  farm- 
ers to  trade  here,  in  place  of  going  to  Albany,  and  a  considerable 
pcrtion  of  the  trade  nccordingiy  rested  at  Utica.  The  western 
country  progressed,  the  trude  flourished  in  proportion,  new  stores 
were  established,  the  tov\n  incicased,  elegant  houses  were  built,  lots 
rose  in  value ;  ant!  the  last  brancii  was  much  accelerated  by  the  a- 
vidity  of  speculation. 

This  state  of  things  continued  until   about  tlie   years  1807-8, 
^vlien  circumstances  began    to  change.      As    the  people  to  the 


t 

1 

i- 

i 

ill 

1 

/ 

1 

I    I 


ua 


^f  3 


i 

534 


TRAVELS    IN 


westward  became  numerous  and  wealthy,  they  began  to  establish 
towns  in  the  interior,  and  these  became  so  many  little  eniporiuins 
for  supplying  the  inhabitants  with  necessaries  and  receiving  their 
produce.  In  addition  to  this,  the  current  of  the  market  began 
to  change  altogether ;  the  lakes  and  the  St.  Lawrence  were  found 
to  be  a  better  and  more  convenient  market  for  the  northern  and 
western  parts  of  the  state,  than  the  Mohawk  and  Hudson ;  and 
Montreal  engrossed  a  large  share  of  the  commerce  heretofore  enjoyed 
by  New  York,  Albany,  and  Utica.  And,  to  crown  the  whole, 
British  credit  was  so  cheap  in  New  York,  that  New  York  credit 
partook  of  it,  and  goods  were  brought  into  the  market,  in  all 
directions,  through  the  country,  often  on  a  credit  of  from  6  to 
18  months.  The  business  was  overdone;  many  of  the  country 
dealers  were  ruined;  the  town-merchants  lost  a  great  deal  of 
monej' ;  and  ihe  whole  country  suffered  by  the  re-action.  The 
single  circumstance  of  ^300  debtors  advertising  tor  the  benefit  of 
the  insolvent  law,  is  a  commentary  upon  the  subject,  to  which  I 
have  not  a  word  to  add ;  and  I  now  proceed  to  enforce  an  opinion 
already  promnlgated  in  this  work. 

The  foreign  trade  is  gone,  never  to  be  recalled  to  its  former 
state.  A  new  era  has  commenced  in  the  United  States.  Britain 
is  destined  to  be  no  longer  the  manufacturer  for  America;  the 
seeds  of  manufactures  are  sown  throughout  the  country,  never  to 
be  rooted  out ;  and,  so  far  from  the  interior  being  dependent  ui)on 
the  cities  as  heretofore,  the  cities  will,  in  all  probability,  become  de- 
pendent upon  it.  A  friend  of  mine,  lately,  in  adverting  to  this 
subject,  well  expressed  it;  "  the  cities  have  had  their  da^^  and 
nawjor  the  country ^  1  am  of  the  same  opinion;  and  though  I 
am  well  aware  that  it  is  by  no  means  gratifying  to  many  v/ho  live 
in  the  cities,  yet  I  consider  it  a  solemn  duty  to  state  it.  Those 
who  avail  themselves  of  the  advantages  to  be  derived  from  the 
new  order  of  things,  will  in  my  opinion  do  weli;  while  those  who 
continue  to  hang  by  a  precarious  ibreign  trade,  or  depend  on  it* 
reanimatioji,  will,  I  fear,  find  themselves  disappointed. 

But  the  citizens  of  Utica  have  already  begun  to  avail  themselves 
of  the  advantages  to  be  derived  from  the  new  order  of  things ; 
and  a  good  deal  of  the  surplus  capital  of  Albany,  and  New  York, 
has  also  been  invested  in  manufactures,  in  and  about  this  j)lacc 
for  which  they  are  already  getting  in  some  cases  a  handsome  re- 
turn ;  perhaps  not  so  great  ais  that  to  be  soBietiincs  derived  from 


i  I  • 


NEW   YORK.  533 

i  loitign  voyage,  but  much  more  certain,  and  with  very  little  risk 
ot  losing  the  cupllul;  while  "orders  in  council,"  and  "  blockad- 
iiic  iiecrecs,"  with  other  vexatious  restrictions  of  trade  on  the  high 
seas  are  so  fur  ironi  being  injurious,  that  they  are  absolutely  ad- 
vantageous. 

Tliere  are  in  Oneida  county  three  glass-works  in  operation  j 
one  of  iLrown  glass,  one  of  cylinder  glass,  and  one  for  glass  bottles. 
Four  paper-mills  have  been  recently  erected  within  eight  miles  of 
Utica.  One  cotton-factory  is  in  operation,  and  three  or  four  are 
erecting,  besides  several  woollen  factories,  ami  there  arc  consider 
able  bleach-fields  and  dye-works.  Iron-works  and  forges  are  nu- 
merous, and  there  are  in  the  county  20  tan-works,  several  hat- 
liictories,  St  fulling-mills,  and  10  carding-miithincs. 

There  are  three  branches  that  are  likily  to  flourish  in  an  emi- 
nent degree:  glass,  woollens,  and  cotton;  and  they  will  all  be  of 
great  importance  to  Utica.      For  glass  the  materials  are  all  on  the 
^pot.     Sheep,  both  of  the   common   and  merino  breeds,  are  in- 
creasing in  all  directions,  and  cotton  can   be  brought  from  New 
York  by  a  water  conveyance,  except  a  short  portage  of  1 5  miles 
Irom   Albany   to   Skenectady.      The  cotton  trade  will,  1  think, 
flourish  beyond  every  other  here.      It  is  now  so  simplified,  and 
machinery  is  applied  to  it  with  such   effect,  that  little  labour  is 
required ;  and  the  labourers  daily  arriving  from  Europe,  at   New- 
York,  can  be  transported  here  in  a  few  days,  at  a  small  expence. 
The  raw  material  can  always  be  had  nearly  one-half  lower  than  in 
Europe,  and  such  is  the  cheapness  of  living,  and  so  plenty  the  hands, 
that  labour  will  not  be  a  great  deal  dearer.     The  trade  with  the 
back  country  is  secure  to  a  very  large  extent,  and  provisions  must 
be  for  ever  cheap  at  Utica. 

Utica  is  the  capital  of  Oneida  county,  and  consists  at  present 
of  about  400  houses,  containing  2000  inhabitants.  It  began  to 
settle  about  23  years  ago,  as  already  mentioned,  but  it  has  been 
principally  built  since  the  year  1796,  and  two-thirds  of  it  since 
1800.  The  buildings  arc  mostly  of  wood,  painted  white,  but  a 
f!ood  many  have  lately  been  built  of  brick,  and  some  few  of  stono. 
The  public  buildings  are  four  places  for  public  worship,  two  of 
them  elegant,  an  academy,  clerk's  ofllce,  &c. ;  and  there  are  six 
taverns,  15  stores,  and  2  breweries. 

There  ure  three  printing -office^ ;  viz.  one  for  books,  and  two 
lor  newspapers,  one  book- store,  one  bindery,  two  mo»oc<.i>  lijanu- 


W 


..i 


536  TRAVELS     IS 

Tactorics,  and  one  manufactory  of  musical  instruments ;  tliree  nia- 
sons,  a  number  of  brick-makers  anil  car})enter.s,  four  cabinet  and 
chair-makers,  two  coopers,  seven  smiths  and  naiiors,  two  tin- 
smiths, ono  copper-smith,  four  silver-smiths  and  watch -niiikors, 
three  tanners  and  curriers,  three  saddlers,  three  shoe-makers,  o\u 
lurrier,  six  butchers,  two  bakers,  three  hatters,  four  ta^'lors,  foui 
painters,  and  four  druggists. 

The  village  lots  are  from  50  to  60  feet  front,  and  100  to  130 
feet  deep,  and  sell  for  from  200  to  1000  dollars.  'J  Ix;  <»ut-lots 
contain  12  acres,  and  5000  dollars  are  asked  for  them. 

House  rent  for  mechanics  is  about  GO  to  100  dollars,  wood  ] 
dollar  25  cents  per  cord,  flour  8  dollars  per  barrel,  potatoes  25 
cents  per  bushel,  turnips  31  cents,  cabbages  4  cents  each,  beans 
62  cents  per  bushel,  onions  75  cents,  beef,  mutton,  and  veal  five 
cents  j)er  lb.,  venison  4  cents,  fowls  9  cents  each,  ducks  25  cents. 
geese  50  cents,  turkeys  62  cents,  butter  12jj  cents  per  lb.,  cheese 
7  cents,  hog's  lard  6  cents,  beer  5  dollars  per  barrel,  whiskey  45 
cents  per  gallon,  boarding  2  dollars  SO  cents  per  week. 

The  government  of  the  village  is  vested  in  a  board  of  five  trus- 
tees, chosen  annually  by  the  inhabitants.  There  are  five  scliools, 
at  which  are  taught  all  the  various  branches  of  education,  which 
is  pretty  well  attended  to ;  and  there  is  a  very  good  seminary  for 
young  ladies.  The  expence  of  tuition  is  about  from  two  to  four 
dollars  per  quarter. 

The  commerce  of  Utica  consists  of  dry  goods,  groceries,  crock- 
cry,  hardware,  and  cotton,  im})orted ;  and  of  grain,  flour,  pro- 
visions, ashes,  &c.  exported.  The  chief  part  of  the  comraerce  is 
with  New  York,  but  it  is  said  a  considerable  smuggling  trade  has 
of  late  been  carried  on  with  Canada. 

Wheat  is  1  dollar  12  cents  per  bushel,  corn  ^^  cents,  barley 
75  cents,  ashes  nominal,  cotton  21  cents,  horses  50  to  100  dollars, 
cows  1 5  to  22  dollars,  sheep  2  to  2  dollars  50  cents. 

Lands  on  the  turnpike,  in  the  neighbourhood,  sell  for  from  50 
to  100  dollars;  further  off  40  to  50;  but  the.  lands  in  both  vi!- 
Uge  and  country  have  greatly  depreciated  in  the  money  v»lw. 

The  view  of  the  country  round  has  been  already  noticLxi ;  tbt 
whole  is  healthy,  but  the  v  inttrs  are  cold  and  severe. 


NEW    YORKi 


537 


i 


CHAPTER  CV. 

General  remrtrhf — View  of  the  northrrn  ^;flr»/5  of  New  Yor/c,— 
SackeCs  harbourj — Lake  Ontaiiu, — Adjacent  countty^ — Internal 
Navigation. 

1  HE  reader  will  perceive,  that  since  I  entered  upon  the  western 
country,  at  the  top  of  the  Allci^nny  mountains  (page  306,)  I  have 
travelled  over  upwards  of  1700  miles,  making  observations  all 
the  way,  with  every  degree  of  njiiiuteness  in  my  power,  and  I 
have  endeavoured,  as  concisely  as  1  could,  to  give  a  general  view 
ol'  that  very  important  and  extensive  region.  Besides  the  infor- 
mation which  I  personally  procined,  I  have  frequently  availed 
myself  of  authentic  information  from  others.  Having  received  a 
communication  from  Mr.  Sacket,  of  Jamaica,  Long  Island,  re* 
laiive  to  the  northern  parts  of  this  state,  I  shall  here  avail  myself 
of  the  valuable  information  it  contains,  in  taking  a  brirf  view  of 
that  part  of  the  country. 

In  tlie  year  1799  Mr.  Sacket  made  a  tour  thrcugh  the  nor- 
thern parts  of  the  state,  then  an  entire  wilderness,  to  the  banks  of 
Lake  Ontt^rio,  and  next  year  he  made  a  purchase  of  700  acres  of 
land  on  the  bunks  of  the  lake,  at  a  publip  sale  in  New  York,  for 
156  dollars  25  cents.  In  the  fall  of  1800  he  took  a  journey  tu 
the  land,  in  company  wiih  several  men  whom  he  had  engaged  to 
cut  down  the  timber,  and  remained  about  two  months  without, 
shelter,  exposed  to  rain,  cold,  and  hunger.  The  ensuing  sj>ring 
they  went  there  again  to  burn  the  timber  cut  down  the  preceding 
fall,  to  plant  some  grain,  and  to  erect  a  saw-mill.  Iti  that  year 
(1801)  three  families  went  to  reside  on  the  place,  and  there  were 
no  other  settlers  in  all  the  country,  except  one  family  10  miles 
diiitant,  one  H  miles  distant,  and  some  few  farther  off,  at  the 
Jistance  of  40  or  50  miles. 

Previous  to  this  period  a  great  degree  of  prejudice  existed  a- 
gaiast  the  lake  shore;  it  wasrepntetl  subject  to  fevers,  and  other- 
wise unhealthy,  and  Mr.  Sacket's  new  settlement  excited  a  good 
deal  of  curiosity  in  the  minds  of  that  most  enterprising  people, 
the  New  Englandcrs,  who  were  traversing  the  country  in  all  di- 
rections in  (juest  of  new  lands.  The  first  fall  Mr.  Sacket  had 
from  10  to  30  of  these  people   almost  every  night,  to  partake  of 


1 


* . 


i' 


i* 


538 


TRAVELS    IN 


his  fare,  aiul  liMln^iniirs  on  llie  ^rounil.  'flic  next  sprino;  tlioy  re- 
newed their  visits,  and  (iiulin^  Mr.  Suckct  makinj^  siiccfssful  pro- 
imeis  with  his  inlinit  scttkincnt,  they  threw  asiih'  their  fears,  ;in(l 
rapidly  hmij^du  up  the  surrounthn"^  coinitry,  and  moved  on  it  with 
their  laniihes. 

I'he  ensiiin-T  winter  Mr.  Saeket  describes  ns  the  most  dreary 
he  ever  experienced ;  tlie  sun  or  compass  directed  their  travels 
thn)ii'j;h  the  woods ;  there  were  no  roatls,  no  travellers,  no  news, 
and  tl)ey  were  cur  off  from  all  conmiunication  with  society,  except 
«  few  Indian*,  whose  confidence  Mr.  Sacket  was  so  fortunate  ns 
to  secure,  aiul  they  were  very  serviceable  in  brinjfini;  venison, 
fish,  wild  fowl,  cranberries,  &c.  They  were  an  inoffensive,  frioiul- 
ly,  and  obli{^in<^  people  ;  but  they  would  frccpiently  indulge 
themselves  in  a  drunken  frolic  under  circuuistanccs  truly  singular, 
indicative  of  a  mixture  of  folly  and  good  sense.  They  would  dc- 
posite  in  Mr.  Socket's  hands  all  their  guns,  knives,  tomahawks, 
trinkets,  &c.,  and  then  the  men  would  get  into  tlie  hiirhest  state 
of  intoxication,  and  so  continue  for  two  days,  while  the  vvonien 
would  remain  perfectly  sober.  As  soon  as  they  had  finisheci  their 
frolic,  the  ladies  would  set  to  it  in  their  turn,  and  continue  lor  a 
like  time  in  the  most  brutal  state  of  intoxication,  during  which 
time  the  men  would  never  taste  liquor.  Sometimes  a  party  of  nun 
or  women  would  come  alone,  in  which  case,  if  they  iiad  a  mind  for 
a  frolic,  they  would  take  it  by  turns,  one  half  remaining  solier 
while  the  other  was  drunk. 

Mr.  Jacket  completely  succeeded  with  his  settlement,  and  it 
now  contains  one  of  the  handsomest  villages  on  the  lake,  called 
Sacket's  Harbour,  on  account  of  being  situated  on  a  pretty  little 
harbour,  by  far  the  best  on  the  lake. 

The  village  is  situated  at  the  east  end  of  I^ake  Ontario,  about 
IG  miles  from  the  river  St.  Lawrence,  and  consists  of  a  number 
of  large  and  elegant  modern-built  houses  and  out-houses,  <rene- 
rally  superior  to  wltat  they  are  in  the  old  villages.  The  village 
was  originally  laid  out  in  hall  acre  lots,  but  many  of  them  are 
subdivided ;  and  such  has  betm  the  rapidity  of  the  settlement, 
that  these  lots  are  now  selling  for  from  250  to  120O  dollars;  and 
one  of  them,  which  was  given  in  a  present  to  one  of  the  first  set- 
tlers, to  induce  him  to  go  into  the  wilderness,  was  lately  sold  at 
14'50  dollars.  Mr.  Sacket  has  realized  from  it,  in  all,  about 
25,000  dollars,  and  has  considerable  property  yet  remaining  unsold. 


New  YORK.  539 

Tho  hnrboiir  is  formed  by  n  peninsuhi  of  liniesToiu'  rock,  in 
many  places  not  nioi\'  than  one  roil  wide,  whieh  |)ertectly  slielteri 
.1  sheet  of  wiiter  containing;  ub<)nt  10  acres.  The  land  frontiip^  the 
hari)our  is  elevated  about  HO  feet,  and  on  cneli  si<le  of  the  harbour 
tlio  hunks  are  of  limestone,  al)out  20  or  'JO  feet  perpendicuhir, 
which,  from  the  water,  resembles  the  walls  of  an  ancient  fortifi- 
ciilion.  From  the  village  there  is  one  of  the  most  vnrief»ated,  ex- 
tensive, and  beantiftd  prosj)ects  any  where  to  bo  seen  :  the  lake, 
distant  i- lands,  main  land,  and  outlets  of  rivers,  are  all  bi'aiiiilnl, 
iind  the  seme  in  coni^inually  enlivened  with  vessels  and  boats  •,  while 
tlu'  wharfs,  warehouses,  and  stares  exhibit  an  appearance  ver\* 
much  rcsernbliiifT  a  sea-port  on  the  Atlantic. 

Tliis  has  for  several  years  been  established  a  port  of  entiy,  and 
it  is- in  contemplation  to  estal)lish  a  navy-yard,  arsenal,  andfortifi- 
cuion  for  protectin;^'  the  trade  on  the  lake.  There  is  a  ferry  bo- 
nveenit  and  Kino-stown,  in  Canada,  distant  3(>  miles,  with  which 
place  there  is  a  {rreut  intercourse  :  and  as  soon  as  packet-boats  are 
e>:tai)lishod  on  t!ie  lake,  this  will  be  the  best  place  from  whence  to 
embark  to  visit  the  falls  of  Niagara,  distant  about  200  miles. 

The  trade  at  tliis  place  ha«  been  increasin'j:  evi'ry  year  since  its 
first  settlement.  There  are  now  upwards  of  forty  vessels  on  the 
lake,  and  the  quantity  of  wheat,  flour,  beef,  pork,  ashes,  and 
lumber  that  is  annually  exported  to  IMontreal  would  almost  exceed 
belief.  But  the  fair  trader  is  very  nuich  tmnoyed  by  smuggling, 
which  is  a  great  and  a  growing  evil.  The  great  extent  of  custom- 
house districts  on  the  line  between  the  states  and  Canada,  and 
tie  want  of  small  craft,  properly  manned,  to  asiist  the  officers  of 
tl,e  customs  in  the  discharge  of  their  duty,  gives  a  facility  to  a 
Tiolation  of  the  laws  wiiich  the  officers  are  wholly  unable  to  pre- 
vent; and  the  practice  of  smuggling  is  becoming  so  habitual, 
that  it  will  probably  give  much  trouble  to  the  general  govern- 
ment to  prevent  it,  and  it  may  in  fact  be  prodiictive  of  confu- 
sion and  bloodshed. 

The  district  of  country  now  composing  the  counties  of  Jefferson, 
Lewis,  and  St.  Lawrence,  which  in  the  yeju*  J  800  was  an  entire 
wilderness,  containing  only  a  few  scattering  families,  now  contains  a 
most  repectable  settlement  of  29,47 1  souls,  enjoying  all  the  com- 
forts and  convenicncies  of  life,  having  villages,  court-h<nises,  jails, 
post-oH'cos,  taverns,  stores,  acatlemies,  schools,  churches,  tuvii- 
iiike  roads,  bridges,  breweries,  distilleries,  mills,  carding  machines; 


^. 


1^. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


v_ 


:/. 


4^ 


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Ta 


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/A 


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1.0 


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1^1^    125 
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11-25  IN  1.4 


II 


1.6 


Hiotogr^iiic 

Sciences 

Corporalion 


33  WIST  MAIN  STREiT 

WfBSTH.N.Y.  USM 

(716)«72-4S03 


MO 


TRAVELS   IN 


and  supporting  farmers,  meciianics,  and  manufacturers ;  with  law- 
yers, dor  tors,  and  divines  in  abundance.  Within  13  miles  of 
iSacket's  liarbour  arc  no  less  than  five  considerabln  viilagres,  vi/. 
Brownsville,  Williamstown,  VVatertown,  Bun's  mills,  and  Sandy 
Creek ;  and  in  all  these  villages,  as  well  as  Sacket's  Harbour,  there 
arc  elephant  buildings.  In  these  three  counties  there  are  37  tan- 
ivorks,  1 7  fulling-mills,  and  11  carding  machines;  and  the  quan- 
tity of  cloth  manufactured  last  year  exceeds  300,000  yards.  The 
lands  are  generally  good,  the  timber  being  chiefly  elm,  oak,  maple, 
hickory,  pine,  cedar,  and  hemlock.  The  woods  are  generally 
open,  having  little  brushwood.  Produce  is  plenty,  and  provisions 
arc  very  cheap ;  beef,  mutton,  and  veal  about  4  cents  per  lb.,  venison 
*2i  to  3,  and  other  kinds  in  proportion.  Flour,  grain,  and  vege- 
tables are  equally  plenty  and  cheap.  The  woods  furnish  a  great 
variety  of  wild  game,  particularly  deer,  partridges,  and  pigeons ; 
and  the  waters  are  equally  prolific  of  fish,  of  which  there  is  a  great 
variety,  consibting  of  salmon,  salmon-trout,  trout,  Oswego,  white 
and  rock  bass,  pike  from  2  to  fiO  lbs.  weight,  and  a  great  variety 
of  others.  Thereareplenty  of  wild  geese  on  the  lake,  and  a  great 
variety  of  ducks  and  other  fowl,  which  by  feeding  on  the  wild  rice 
lose  their  fishy  taste,  and  are  highly  esteemed.  In  the  woods  there 
are  some  wolves  and  bears;  but  they  avoid  men  when  in  their  pow- 
er ;  the  latter  are  often  found  crossing  rivers  and  bays*. 

A  great  emulation  and  activity  pervades  all  classes  of  the  tiettlers 
in  ornamenting;  their  villages,  and  improving  their  farms,  roads, 
&c.  which  must  ultimately  make  this  one  of  the  finest  and  most 
agreeable  parts  of  the  state.  And  when  we  reflect  on  what  has 
already  been  done,  the  mind  is  inevitably  hurried  forward  to  coii- 

*  The  following  un|riiiar  occurrence  took  place  on  the  lake  not  long  age. 

A  farmer  who  lived  on  the  lake  shore,  observing  a  bear  crossing  a  bay,  was  ami- 
ous  to  kill  him.  He  ran  to  his  skifT,  and  withoutVcflccting  that  he  had  no  weapon  but 
his  paddle,  worked  his  way  to  the  bear,  who  immediately  sprung  into  the  skitf,  and,  to 
the  great  terror  of  the  farmer,  very  deliberately  sat  down  on  the  bow  in  front  of  Iiim. 
The  farmer,  after  some  reHiH;tion,  detennined  to  carry  him  back,  and  attempted  to 
turn  tlie  boat ;  but  the  bear  made  an  advance  to  prevent  him,  and  the  boat,  impelled  by 
t!ie  wind,  having  gained  its  first  position,  the  bear  again  very  quietly  took  his  seat  on 
the  bow.  The  farmer  made  a  second  and  a  tliird  attempt,  with  always  the  same  result ; 
and  perceiving  that  when  tlie  boat  went  th^  way  the  bear  was  swimming  he  was  quiet, 
he  very  prudently  determined  to  reach  the  land  in  that  direction.  He  acconlingly  row- 
cd  an,  and  when  ho  was  within  a  few  feet  of  the  shore,  the  black  passenger  lenpeil  out, 
to  iu  great  satisfaction  i  equalled  or  probably  surpassed  by  that  of  iu  Jini/mrn,  tli* 
former. 


NKW    YORK.  541 

teniplflte  the  progress  of  society  alon^  this  amazing  chain  of  lakc« 
and  rivers  i  and  we  see,  by  anticipation,  cultivated  fields  and  or- 
chards, thriving  manufactories,  with  a  succession  of  cities,  towns, 
and  villages,  abounding  in  arts,  sciences,  and  ail  the  embellish- 
ments of  civil  life. 

The  navigation  of  the  Mohawk  river,  and  a  water  couimunica- 
tiod  from  Albany  to  the  great  lakes,  are  objects  which  are  calcu* 
lated  to  excite  particular  interest  at  this  place.  The  Hudson  river 
is  a  noble  stream,  having  tide  water  to  Troy,  six  miles  above  Al- 
bany, to  which  large  vessels  can  freely  navigate.  The  Mohawk 
river  forms  a  junction  wiili  the  Hudson  at  VVaterford,  a  iew  miles 
iibove  Troy.  From  the  mouth  of  the  river,  there  are  rapiils,  ex- 
tending about  a  mile  and  a  half,  to  the  Cohocs  fulls,  a  perpendicu« 
lar  descent  of  about  70  feet,  and  the  rapids  below  are  about  at 
much  more.  From  this  to  Schenectady  is  about  12  miles.  An 
excellent  turnpike  road  has  been  made  between  Albany  and  Sche- 
nectady ;  and  from  thence  to  Utica  the  Mohawk  is  navigable  with 
boats,  which  arc  propelled  upwards,  at  the  rate  of  1 3  or  20  miles 
a  day.  The  distance  between  Schenectady  and  Utica  by  water  is 
104  miles.  The  navigation  is  continued  beyond  Utica,  16  miles, 
to  Rome,  where,  by  means  of  a  canal  one  mile  long,  the  boats  ai'c 
carried  through  Wood  creek  24t  miles,  Oneida  lake  30  miles,  O- 
neida  river|20  miles,  and  Otwego  river  6  miles,  where  there  is  a  fall 
of  10  feet,  and  a  portage  of  two  miles.  The  navigation  is  then 
continued  12  miles  to  Oswego^on  lake  Ontario.  The  whole  distance 
troni  Albany  is  228  miles,  from  New  York  388. 

The  navigation  of  these  rivers  was  at  first  in  a  vory  imperfect 
state;  but  thelegislature  of  the  state  of  New  York,  considering  the 
importance  of  an  inland  navigation  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  grout 
lakes,  incorporated  a  company  under  the  title  of  the  Western  hi" 
land  Lock  Navigation  Companj/.  This  company  has  expended  a 
great  deid  of  money,  and  done  as  much  as  their  funds  would  per* 
mit,  to  complete  this  important  navigation.  But  it  is  still  defec- 
tive and  their  tolls  are  so  very  high  on  the  lines  of  canal,  that  the 
utility  of  the  navigation  is  considerably  impaired.  Within  these 
two  years,  therefore,  the  subject  has  excited  fresh  interest ;  and  the 
legislature,  by  a  joint  resolution  of  botli  houses,  in  March,  1810, 
^pointed  commissioners  <*  to  examine  the  navigation,  to  consider 
what  further  improvements  ought  to  be  made,  and  to  report." 

The  commissioners  having  caused  various  surveys  to  be  madcv 


f*i' 


r* 


'^^j0 


t  '•*  ■ 


WA 


••\m 


n'i 


542 


TKAVEL9    IN 


and  examined  the  subject  with  ns  much  attention  as  time  ami  rirciim* 
stances  would  permit,  rcporU'd,  "  lliiit  by  the  aid  of  cniials,  a 
good  navigation  lor  boats  can  unquestionably  be  made  from  ScIk.. 
ncctatly  to  the  falls,  on  the  Oswego  river,  12  miles  south  of  i-iko 
Ontario;  from  Shenectady  to  the  Hudson,  and  Irom  the  falls  just 
mentioned,  to  lake  Ontario;"  but  they  stated  their  conviction,  that 
it  was  more  desirable  to  extend  the  navigation  direct  from  Rome, 
at  the  head  of  Wood  creek,  to  lake  Erie. 

From  this  report,  and  a  map  of  the  western  parts  of  the  state, 
engraved  to  illustrate  the  subject,  it  appears  that  the  line  of  canal 
from  lake  Erie  to  Rome,  is  intended  to  join  the  lake  at  Black  Hock, 
and  extend  along  the  Niaf^ara  river  to  the  mouth  of  Tonrwnnta 
creek,  10  miles,  thence  along  that  creek  about  lo  milcf»,  tlicncc 
due  north  about  10  miles,  to  the  top  of  the  Ledge,  8  miles  from 
lake  Ontario.  Then  along  that  ledge,  55  miles,  to  Gencssee  river 
crossing  it  above  the  falls,  6  miles  from  the  said  lake;  and  thence 
along  the  country,  crossing  Seneca  river,  18  miles  from  the  lake, 
and  passing  close  by  Salina,  and  the  south-east  corner  of  Onoida 
lake;  the  whole  distance  between  Genessee  river  and  Rome,  beinij 
about  1 10  miles.  The  commissioners,  to  make  the  navigation  jier- 
fect,  proposed  to  run  the  canal  all  the  way  to  Albany.  They  de- 
clined determing  whether  it  should  be  for  sloops  or  for  boats  only ; 
but  they  concluded  that  a  very  complete  national  work  might  be 
executed  for  five  millions  of  dollars,  which  they  contiidcr  a  sum 
not  above  one  twentieth  part  of  the  value  of  the  commodities 
that  will  be  transported  on  the  canal  in  less  than  a  century. 

It  is  to  be  presumed  that  the  enlightened  legklature  of  a  state  so 
powerful  as  New  York  will  not  lose  sight  of  the  subject,  and 
I  think  it  extremely  probable,  that  a  good  boat  navigation  will 
be  completed  betwixt  the  Hudson  and  tiie  lakes.  I  do  not  Uiink 
it  probable  that  a  passiige  for  larger  craft  will  be  attempted,  for  the 
present*  and  I  presume  that  the  plan  will  ultimately  be  to  perfect 
the  navigation  by  the  Mohawk,  Wood  creek,  and  Oneida  lake,  to 
lake  Ontario. 

This,  however,  I  state  merely  as  my  private  opinion,  and  with 
all  due  deference  to  the  commissioners  and  others  interested, 
whom  I  consider  the  only  competent  judges.  The  state  will  ao 
doubt  act  wisely  and  judiciously,  and  the  plan  that  appears  bcsr, 
under  all  circumstances,  will  of  course  be  adopted.  Should  it  be 
the  line  direct  to  lake  Erie,  every  friend  to  the  internal  prosperity 


NEW    YORK. 


543 


at  the  country  must  wish  tticin  success  in  the  execution  of  such 
all  urduuus  undertaking,  [n  the  mean  time,  I  niny  glance  at  a 
few  reasons  why  I  think  they  will  prubahly  ultiniateiy  tiK  on  tiiv'hne 
bytiie  Mohawk,  &c.,  to  lake  ()ntnrio. 

First.  To  run  u  line  of  canal,  300  miles  in  L-ugth,  is  a  work 
of  such  magnituile,  liiat  it  can  only  be  executed  and  supported  by 
a  very  thick  population.  The  laliour  and  ex|>ence  of  completing; 
it,  wouUI  be  an  exceeiling  great  burden  u|)on  the  present  genera- 
tion, and  they  would  receive  no  return;  forthonp;h  be^un  now,  the 
man  is  not  alive  that  would  see  it  completed.*  To  confer  a  benefit 
on  posterity  is  a  laudable  principle,  but  the  great  stimidus  to 
iiiiinkind  is  present  advantage;  and  it  is  to  be  expected  that  they 
will  avail  themselves,  in  the  first  instance,  of  natural  advantages 
a<t  much  ns  possible.  Nature  has  done  much  towards  an  in- 
land navigation  by  the  rivers  and  lakes  mentioned,  and  little  art, 
comparatively,  is  necessary  to  render  the  advantage  immediate. 

Secondly.  Tiiat  an  inland  canal  will  diver'*  the  trade  of  the  lakes 
fiom  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  IIuds<m,  is,  I  think,  very  problema- 
tical. "  There  is  no  friendship  in  trade."  If  Montreal  be  found 
.1  better  market  than  New  York,  the  trade  on  the  lakes  and  country 
adjacent  will  be  to  Montreal,  and  an  inland  canal  will  not  prercnt 
it,  because  tliere  will  be  buyers  at  every  port  on  the  lakes  for  the 
Montreal  market ;  arul  as  people  always  prefer  an  immediate  to  a 
distant  market,  those  who  live  near  these  places  will  avail  them- 
selves of  the  market  at  their  door.  The  natural  trade,  in  fact,  of 
these  countries  is  by  the  St.  Lawrence;  and  this  will  continue  while 
the  United  States  remain  at  peace  with  Britain.  Shouhl  they  go 
to  war,  a  pretty  obvious  result  is,  that  Canada  will  tail  in  with  the 
United  States. 

Thirdly.  The  old  commercial  relations  of  the  United  States 
have  changed  ;  and  the  change  will  probably  progress  until  it  br» 
consummated  in  the  establishment  of  internal  manufactures,  and  in- 
ternal consumpt  for  produce  and  raw  materials ;  which  will  prevent 
the  quantity  of  both  for  exportation  from  keeping  pace  with  the 

*  Let  those  who  doubt  tliis,  turn  to  the  history  of  canals  in  general.  An  individual 
iiiitaiKi' may  lie  alluded  to  in  the  Forth  and  Clyde  navigation,  in  Scotland.  Tlio  Fortti 
aiil  ('lydc  canal  is  .'J  miles  lonjf,  and  the  summit  level  is  155  fet-t  above  tide-uator. 
ll  »M  executed  at  a  time  when  wages  were  only  a  shilling  a  day,  and  it  runs  tlirougit 
uhick-settled  country.  It  was  tommruced  in  176H,  and  completed  in  179').  '."J  yrar?. 
^t  tlia  Mme  rate,   the  grand  canal  would  be  finished  in  U:^0.  -.       •  ' 


K: 


H:,r.'!'' 


n:  I  - 


5+* 


TtlAVRLS   IN 


progrcHS  of  popiilntion.  The  chance  is,  that  the  ex]K)rts  oi'  the  V- 
iiiteii  State:*  have  reachoiJ  their  zenith ;  und  thnt  a  tr.ido  more  con- 
ihicive  to  intcrniil  j^ro^pority  will  succeed.  Should  that  l>u  the  case, 
iiitcrn.il  ti.ivigation  will  bo  a  subject  of  great  importance ;  but  the 
ta'iuls of  <rreatcst  canflcv|iicnce  will  lie  those  calculated  to  facilitate 
inanufacturcii  by  tiie  transportation  of  raw  materials  from  one  place 
to  anoth;*r,  of  provisionn  from  the  agricultural  to  the  manufacturin'^ 
districts,  and  of  manufactured  good:)  from  the  places  where  they  are 
made  to  where  thoy  will  be  vended*  Instances  in  point  occur  nr 
Utica;  the  cheap  conveyance  of  cotton  upward,  and  of  glosx  down- 
ward is  an  object  of  importance.  The  conveyance  of  cotton,  in  fact, 
is  an  object  of  primary  importance  all  over  the  United  States.  Eve- 
ry town,  village,  and  district  will  use  it ;  while  it  can  be  only  raised 
in  one  section  of  the  union,  the  fionthern  states.  Here  I  may  notice 
tlic  consolatory  reflaction  that  the  general  establishment  of  internal 
manufactures  will  probably  sotm  indemnify  the  planter  for  the  loss 
of  the  foreign  trade.  Wool  and  flax  will  be  pretty  much  diffused 
through  the  states.  Hemp  aud  manufactures  of  hemp  will  often  be 
carried  to  a  great  distance.  Iron  will  be  much  transported  by  in> 
tcrnal  canals ;  and,  in  many  instances,  lumber,  plaster  of  Paris,  and 
limestone. 

Such  considerations  will  probably  induce  the  projectors  of  canals 
to  look  more  to  the  internal  accommodation  of  the  country  than  of 
single  ports,  and  in  every  case  to  avail  themselves,  in  the  first  in- 
stance, of  what  nature  has  done,  so  os  to  lessen  the  labour,  ond  pro- 
duce an  immediate  advantaj^c. 


CHAPTER  CVI. 

Leave  Utica, — Herlimcr, — Little  FallSy — Nose. 

November  ISth.  The  day  clear  and  pleasant.  I  set  out  at 
1  o'clock,  aud  crossing  the  Mohawk  river  by  a  good  wooden  bridge, 
I  travelled  by  a  turnpike  rond,  five  miles,  to  a  toll-bar.  The  bot' 
toms  here  are  fertile;  but  the  lands  at  a  distance  appear  rough,  and 
M  good  many  pine-trees  are  to  be  seen  on  the  brows  ofthehilU. 
To  the  next  toll-bar  is  1 8  miles,  in  which  space  the  valley  contracts, 
the  hills  become  more  lofiy  and  more  liarrcu ;  but  the  valley  on  the 
river,  about  a  mile  wide,  is  rich  land,  abounding  witli  handsome  set- 


"'i'  cotton  and  w 


NEW     YORK. 


545 


ilcmnits.  I  observed  two  streams  to  emerge  iVom  the  hills,  and 
tall  into  the  river  on  the  opposite  side.  Beyond  the  second  toll -bur 
the  road  leads  over  a  lofty  bank,  near  the  side  of  the  river,  owr 
which  1  travelled  a  mile  and  a  half,  and  then  descended  to  the  vil- 
lage of  Herkimer,  where  I  stopped  all  nif^ht. 

Herkimer  is  romantically  situated  in  a  jtretty  valley,  and  consists 
of  52  houses,  containin/^  about  HGO  inhabitants.  It  has  a  church,  .i 
court-liousc,  i  taverns,  and  !i  stores;  and  issues  2  weekly  newspapers. 

FIcrkimer  county  is  well  settled.  The  river  hills  are  barren  ;  but 
the  interior  of  the  country  is  said  to  be  pretty  fertile. 

Thursday,  14th.  The  morning  was  cloudy,  cold,  and  disagreea- 
ble. About  half  a  mile  to  the  east  of  the  village  I  passcil  a  rapid 
stream  called  West  Canada  creek.  After  crossing  it  the  roail  rises 
to  the  top  of  a  bank  elevated  more  than  100  feet  above  the  river,  at* 
lording  a  fine  view  of  the  country,  which  continues?  miles  to  Little 
Falls.  The  valley  is  narrow,  but  well  settled  ;  the  road  good,  with 
a  hard  gravelly  bottom,  and  the  adjoining  land«i  stony ;  but  tlic 
wheat  fields  being  green,  exhibited  a  pleasing  appearance. 

As  r  approached  the  falls,  I  observed  the  valley  to  contract  till 
the  hills  appeared  almost  to  close,  and  the  banks  were  singularly 
rough  and  stony.  Above  the  falls  I  crossed  a  canal,  handsomely 
faced  with  hewn  stone,  and  I  again  crossed  it  close  by  the  lucks,  as 
I  entered  the  village,  and  passed  on  to  Morgan's  tavern,  a  hand- 
some freestone  building.  While  breakfast  was  preparing  I  took  a 
view  of  the  village  and  canal ;  and  on  my  return  I  got  the  following 
account  of  the  place  from  my  discreet  jandlord : 

The  village  and  land  adjoining  belongs  to  a  family  in  England, 
of  the  name  of  Ellis.  The  settlement  commenced  about  23  years 
ago.  The  village  now  consists  of  50  houses,  many  of  them  built  oi' 
stone,  6  stores^  4  taverns,  church,  school-house,  I  flour-rniil,  1  trip- 
hammer, 1  fulling-mill,  1  saw-mill,  and  1  cording-machine.  The 
fall  of  water  within  three  quarters  of  a  mile  is  about  50  feet,  and 
there  is  room  and  water  enough  for  100  mills.  The  village  lots  are 
100  feet  by  60,  and  arc  let  on  a  perpetual  lease  of  3  dollnrs  p?r  .".•;- 
num.  The  water-falls  are  reserved  by  the  proprietors  for  mill-scats, 
except  some  that  are  on  short  lea.«e.  The  proprietors  have  also  !■ 
or  5  farms  on  short  lease;  but  the}*  are  of  no  great  value.  Thev 
olTer  to  sell  the  whole  for  i'JOOO  dollars,  which  would  probably  be 
i  good  bargain,  as  this  is  a  very  favourable  situation  for  ebtul)li>li- 
'ii|i  cotton  and  woollen  inaiiufacturcs. 


h 


i.  I 


■>  ::, 


\i 


l!^ 


646 


THAVILS    IN 


Tlie  cnnal  wuh  cut  about  18  years  ago.  It  wan  originally  con- 
Ktructcdof  wood;  but  that  falling  to  decay*  it  was  rebuilt  of  stone 
8  years  ago.  There  arc  8  KM.'k6  at  iIuk  place.  Tlie  toll  has  been 
lessened  within  these  few  ycarkf  on  account  of  the  waggons  tukiii^ 
away  the  trudi*  from  the  canal.  It  in  at  present  1  dollar  2.*;  cents 
per  ton. 

Went  Cniiiula  creek,  which  I  crowed,  rines  on  the  ditiding 
ridge  between  the  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  those  of  tlic 
Hudson.  It  pasties  through  very  high  lands  and  brings  down 
great  (juantitiesof  ice  in  the  spring. 

When  brcakfabt  was  announced,  I  went  into  the  parlour,  when- 
a  very  hantlsonie  young  lady  was  seated  at  the  breakfast-table,  to 
pour  out  the  tea ;  and  the  articles  In-fore  her  were  so  numerous 
that  I  could  not  help  taking  an  inventory  of  them;  the  bare  in< 
sertioii  of  which  will  show  that  the  inhabitants  ol  the  hack  xvoodf, 
as  they  have  been  called,  arc  not  (piite  ho  nuich  in  the  savai^r 
stale  as  some  late  tourists  would  itavc  us  imagine. 

1  lere  we  had  table,  table-cloth,  tea-tray,  tca-}x>ts,  milk-pot, 
howl:),  cups,  sugar-tongs,  tea-spmms,  castors,  plates,  knives  uiul 
forks,  tea,  sugiu',  cream,  bread,  butter,  steak,  eggs,  cheese, 
crackers,  potatoes,  bc>ets,   salt,  vinegar,  and  pepper. 

There's  a  bill  of  fare  that  might  suit  a  prince ;  and  in  a  situation 
so  romantic,  that  it  would  suit  a  hermit.  It  is  new  too,  and 
quite  in  the  back  grouttd,  being  more  than  200  miles  from  New 
York.  While  engaged  at  breakfast,  my  speculations  naturaUv 
turned  on  Dr  Adam  Smith's  chapter  on  the  division  of  lab'.mr. 
1  low  many  hands  behoved  to  be  employed  before  I  could  he  sup- 
plietl  with  suck  a  breakfast  I  The  view  of  the  fair  hani^^  engag- 
ed in  pouring  out  the  tea  was  no  small  additional  reU^'n ;  and  the 
moderation  of  the  charge  surprised  me — it  was  only   25  cents. 

As  I  passed  through  the  village,  I  observed  8or,,e  masons  bniki- 
ing  a  stone  arch,  the  first  I  have  seen  buildi;»;g  in  America.  Hall' 
a  mile  below  the  village,  the  road  comes    close  to  the  river  side, 


and  is  carvictl  over  n  lurge 


hollow 


a  wooden  bridge,  from 


which  there  is  a  tuxe  view  of  the  lower  part  of  the  falls.  Below 
this  there  arc  huge  nmss»;s  of  perpendicular  rocks  on  each  side, 
and  the  whole  bears  evident  marks  of  Imving  been  cut  througli 
by  the  river;  a  proof,  among  numberless  others,  of  the  great  nn- 
tiquity  of  this  continent,  and  tliat  a  vast  portion  of  it  must  h.w 
iJ.n     oriirinallv    covered  by    water.      The    valley    immediatel: 


l)etn     originally 


NRW    YORK. 


547 


.ibuvc  tbeiie  falls  miut  have  bern  originally  a  liike,  t'rum  wliicii 
the  surplus  water  wouUl  be  precipitated  over  the  rocki,  and  so 
(urni  a  large  tall.  The  oi)eration  of  tlie  water  would  of  course 
wear  ilown  the  roclvH,  or,  to  use  Volney'ii  expression,  would  sa^ 
a  passage  through  theni,  which,  in  the  progress  of  ages,  hns  pro> 
(liiced  the  eflect  that  we  now  see.  VVitliout  dipping  deeply  into 
the  (icience  of  geology,  whieh  tuhnits  of  sueli  a  variety  of  opinion, 
It  is  sufficient,  in  a  practical  work  of  thik  nature,  to  draw  oceii> 
Moiially  Homc  inferences  from  the  ap|K'arances  on  ttie  surfucv  of 
the  globe.  The  inferences  to  Ik'  drawn  lw?re  correspond  exactly  wiih 
tijose  drawn  from  a  view  of  the  ert'ects  produced  by  ihe  fills  of 
Ningara,  pages  511  8c  512  of  this  volinne. 

Ik^yond  the  falls,  the  bottoms  on  the  river  spread  out  to  the 
mual  breadth  of  alMiut  a  mile,  and  arc  well  cultivated,  'llic  river 
is  navigaljle,  and  the  kloping  declivities  of  the  hills  present  many 
handsome  views. 

Beyond  the  fails  tlie  road  passes  through  a  low  level  tract  ol 
land,  about  7  miles,  when  it  rises  to  an  eminence  of  at  least  '200 
feet,  from  whence  there  is  a  charming  birtl's  eye  view  of  the  va!- 
lies  below,  and  of  the  hills,  wootLs  and  cultivated  fields  at  a  dis- 
tance ;  iDAt\y  of  which  had  been  sown  with  wheat|  and  presented 
a  cheering,  verdant  prospect. 

After  descending  from  this  eminen<^e,  I  croeieed  East  Canada 
creek,  a  very  rapid  stream,  having  numerous  mills  upon  iL  On 
the  east  siile  of  the  creek,  1  per  ^^ived  a  machine  for  beating  clay 
to  make  bricks.  Rising  again  i  -a  a  high  bank,  I  stopped  at  a 
tavern  to  feed  my  horse.  Here  I  met  the  Utica  stage,  and  saw 
a  young  gentleman,  two  days  from  New  York,  distant  upwards 
of  220  miles.  I  was  informed  that  this  was  the  frontier  in  the 
lime  of  the  American  war,  where  it  raged  with  great  fury..  Our 
landlord,  a  German,  said  he  carried  arms  during  the  war,  and, 
should  his  adopted  country's  cause  require  it,  he  was  ready  to 
turn  out  again,  though  64  years  of  age. 

Leaving  the  tavern,  I  passed  a  rapid  stream,  where  I  observed 
asaw-miU,  and  a  hemp  or  fl;ix-mill,  and,  five  miles  below,  I  saw 
the  Palatine  bridge  across  the  Mohawk  river.  The  road  proceeds 
about  4  miles  through  a  low  bottom  of  stiff  cl.ty,  and  at  dark  f 
passed  a  curious  projecting  point  called  the  Nose,  two  miles  from 
which  I  stopjied  at  the  house  of  M'Connolly,  an  intelligent  Iri;h- 
Ban,  from  whom  I  received  tht  following  information. 


0\^ 


■    i1  .    ■;. 


548 


TRAVELS    IN 


'J'lir  npprnranct?  of  tlic  country  iilong  the  rivrr,  to  the  eibt- 
\ynn\y  ih  pretty  iiiucli  like  that  I  pusucilovcr;  but  the  button)  lumU 
liitlicr  improve  in  <|uality.  To  the  south  the  htnd  Ih  i-levatcil  ami 
rough,  nnd  to  the  nortii  very  high  and  rocky.  The  banks  ol'ilie 
hilU  are  pretty  much  stripped  of  their  timber.  A  lead-mine  hii> 
been  recently  discovered  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  near  Caii- 
ajoharie,  and  it  has  every  appearance  of  being  productive  and 
valuable.  Tlie  proprietor  has  sold  4  acres  of  ground  on  which  it 
i.s  situated,  at  1000  dollarit  per  acre  ;  and  a  company  is  forming  tu 
work  it.  Iron  ore  ih  tbund  in  the  hills  to  the  north  of  the  tuvtrii. 
'I'lie  timber  here  is  generally  of  a  small  growth,  ond  conbi>ts  of 
beech,  licndock,  and  pine.  The  country  is  liealthy  :  but  lli(> 
climate  goes  to  great  extremes,  the  summers  being  very  hot,  and 
the  winters  very  coltl.  The  prevailing  wiuils  are  from  the  wtst- 
iiorlh-west  and  nortli -north-east ;  but  they  blow  most  frequently 
«l()wn  the  river.*  The  greater  part  of  the  storms  are  from  the 
north-east.  In  tlic  hills,  about  two  miles  distant  from  the  tavern, 
there  arc  a  great  many  rattle-snakes.  The  landlord  killed  15  on 
one  stone.  They  were  generally  about  8  or  9  inches  long.  A- 
niong  the  number  was  a  female,  having  IG  rattles;  and,  on  dis- 
secting her,  they  found  in  her  belly  16  eggs  and  a  striped  squirrel. 
M'heii  killecl,  she  was  in  the  act  of  swallowing  a  toad.  They  al- 
ways make  a  noise  when  a  person  is  near,  and  consequently  are 
not  dangerous.  In  sunnncr,  tliey  are  here  a  good  deal  troubled 
V,  iih  flies  and  niusquetoes.  There  arc  a  few  fish  in  the  river. 
The  prmluee  of  the  country  is  wheat,  rye,  corn,  oats,  hay,  po- 
tatoes, some  hemp,  and  a  great  deal  of  flax.  Albany  is  the  mar- 
ket, and  the  produce  is  mostly  sent  by  waggons.  Uncleared  land, 
mar  the  river,  sells  at  from  20  to  30  dollars  per  acre.  Cultivated 
farms  arc  not  for  sale.  Fifteen  thousand  dollars  had  been  oflcrcd 
lor  a  farm  of  505  acres,  and  refused.  Labourers  have  from  100 
(o  ]  25  dollars  per  annum,  and  their  board.  Mechanics  about  1 
dollar  to  1  dollar  25  cents  ytcv  day,  and  their  board.  Cotton  and 
woollen  manufactures  are  establishing  in  many  places.  A  manufac- 
tory of  cotton  and  linen  is  about  to  be  establislied  at  Cauglina- 
waga,  with  a  capital  of  30,000  dollars,  which  is  all  subscribed, 
'ihe  inhabitants  consist  mostly  of  fanners  and  mechanics.    There 

•  'It  appi-nrs  »o  mc  thot  tlic  win.ls  i^hirh  blow'  down  tlie  river  are  a  continuation  of 
the  current  of  air  wliioh  blows  over  the  western  country ;  but  it  is  now  evidently  aflfcct- 
nl  liy  the  high  lands,  and  puts  on  ihc  appearance  of  the  north-west  winds  to  tlic  e«« 
nt'  iho  mountains. 


NBW  YORK.  540 

are  pretty  good  ecIiooU ;  but  education  is  not  so  much  attended 
to  as  it  ought  to  bo.  There  is  a  settlement  of  Scots  people  nt 
Johnstown,  und  another  at  Uroadulbin.  Hiey  have  gooti  hchools, 
and  are  esteemed  very  sober  and  industrious. 

On  hearing  the  latter  part  of  this  intbrmntion,  I  rcsolvetl  to 
change  my  route,  to  visit  my  countrymen ;  and  my  landlord  ad- 
vised me  to  call  on  Daniel  M'lntyrc,  at  Hroadulbin,  who  was 
one  of  the  iirst  settlers,  and  would  be  ready  to  give  every  iufor- 
mntion.      -     f-  ' 


CHAPTEll  CVII. 

Johnstmcn, — Broadalbw^ — Milton^-  -lialhton  Sjnitigs, 

IN  the  morning,  my  obliging  landlord  gave  mc  directions  as  to 
the  road,  and  I  net  out  at  sun  rise,  the  weather  being  clear,  with 
hard  frost.  -  ' 

To  the  north  of  the  tarern,  there  is  a  low  bottom  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  broad,  termiiutted  by  u  steep  ridge  about  SOO 
feet  high,  from  whence  water  is  conveyed  in  pipes  to  the  house. 
This  ridge' approaches  the  river  as  it  proceeds  westward,  close  to 
which  it  ibrms  the  ix>int,  already  mentioned,  culled  the  Nose, 
from  its  resemblance  to  the  nose  on  the  human  face. 

The  road  passes  through  low  and  prettj'  fertile  grounds,  near 
the  side  of  the  river,  about  a  mile,  to  a  creek  with  several  mills; 
and  here,  in  pursuance  of  my  landlord's  advice,  1  turned  towards 
Johnstown,  distant  4  miles.  The  road  rises  by  a  considerable 
ascent.  On  reaching  the  heights,  there  arc  many  fine  and  cxten- 
iive  views,  the  moiuitains  appearing  very  distinctly  in  the  bouth« 
west.  The  country  is  pretty  well  cultivated,  but  it  is  bare  of 
limber  ;  what  remains  is  mostly  pine  trees. 

I  stopped  at  a  tavern,  where  I  found  a  number  of  men  assem- 
bled on  some  public  occasion ;  but  I  could  get  little  information 
here,  and  proceeded  to  the  printing-office,  where  the  editor  very 
obligingly  answered  all  my  queries. 

Johnstown  contains  al)out  60  houses  and  500  inhabitants.  Itf 
is  the  seat  of  justice  of  Montgomery  county,  and  has  a  court- 
house, jail,  an  episcopal  and  presbytorian  church,  an  academy, 
and  2  printing-ofKccs.    There  are  9  taverns  and  9  stores.    Two 


h    1 


r     (1.      :»■' 


iK 


Ui 


;h 


•i'i'^^ 

;'!!!;'. 


550'  YRAVtLS     IN 

doctors  nnd  H  lawyers  reside  in  the  town ;  the  other  iiihabitani. 
arc  fj^ncrally  mechanics.  Johnstown  was  settled  about  the  tinif 
of  the  wnr,  and  tlic  inhabitants  are  mostly  of  Scottish  and  Iri»h 
extraction. 

At  3  o'clock  I  set  out  for  Droadnlbin,  distant  7  or  8  mile;).  The 
road  passes  over  hif^h  lands,  the  soil  rather  sandy.  From  cvury 
point  by  the  way  there  is  an  extensive  view  o^  liij{h  elevated  Jamlo 
to  the  north  and  west,  of  the  Catskill  hills  to  the  south  ;  nnd  to 
the  east  the  vast  range  of  mountains  in  Vermont  appear  in  lottv 
majesty.  I  reached  Uroadnlbin  near  sun-set,  and  stopping  to  in- 
quire for  Mr.  M'Intyre,  I  found  an  old  gentleman  at  the  gate  en- 
gaged in  a  contest  with  a  cow,  who  seemed  determined  to  have 
two  pumpkins  whether  he  would  ur  not.  Having  assisted  him 
to  drive  off  the  intruder,  1  woa  proceeding  with  my  inquiries, 
when  he  told  me  that  he  was  Daniel  M'Intyre.  He  ordered  a  boy 
to  take  charge  of  my  horse,  invited  me  into  the  house,  and  intro- 
duced me  to  his  family ;  and  inforipcd  me  that  James  would  be 
home  presently,  when  we  would  get  uU  the  news. 

Mr.  Jumcs  M'Intyre  soon  arrived,  and  I  spent  a  very  pleasant 
evening  with  the  family.  The  history  of  the  settlement  of  Broad- 
albin  was  briefly  this.  Mr.  M'Intyre  arrived  from  Broadulbin  in 
Scotland,  in  the  year  1 77.5.  In  the  month  of  May,  the  year  fol- 
lowing, his  family  and  five  more  moved  to  this  place  (there  being 
then  no  settlers  between  it  and  Bollston,)  when  they  made  a  purchase 
of  1 600  acres  of  land,  at  1  doUnr  69  cents  per  acre ;  and  imme- 
diately commenced  clearing  and  planting.  They  were  all  fanner!!, 
and  were  pretty  successful,  until  they  were  involved  in  the  troubles 
of  the  war,  by  the  Indians  being  let  loose  upon  them.  But  they 
maintained  their  ground  until  the  year  before  the  close  of  the  war, 
when  they  were  obliged  to  abandon  the  settlement,  and  retire  to 
Albany,  where  tkey  continued  three  years.  On  their  return  to 
the  settlement,  a  few  more  families  joined  them,  and  they  have 
continued  to  flourish  ever  since.  The  township  now  contains 
8238  inhabitant!),  of  whom  about  one-third  are  Scottish;  the 
others  arc  principally  from  New  England  and  New  Jersey.  The 
area  of  the  township  is  about  24,000  acres,  all  arable,  except  a 
swamp  of  about  2000  acres.  The  soil  is  loam  mixed  with  sand; 
and,  though  it  bears  no  comparison  with  the  western  country,  it 
is  pretty  good  for  this  place.  The  timber  is  beech  and  maple, 
wkk  some  pine,  hemlock,  elm,  ash,  and  bnss>wood.    The  climat 


Woman,  one  c 


NKW     YORK.  55  I 

II  very  healthy ;  but  the  winters  arc  long  and  severe,  commencing 
the  Ut  <>t  December,  nnd  continuing  till  the  middle  of  April.  The 
inhabitantM  ure  kuber  and  industrious.  They  inanutacture  the  must 
of  their  clothing;  and  there  are  in  the  township  u  paper-mill,  an 
oil-mill,  6  grist-mills,  3  iullingmills,  and  2  cnrding-macliines. 
Sheep  farming  has  been  of  lute  a  good  deal  attended  to,  and  the  me- 
rino breed  has  been  introduced  with  considerable  success. 

After  supper  the  family  assembled  to  prayers,  and  the  whole  m'us 
conducted  in  the  primitive  mode  practised  by  the  |H*asantry  of  iScot- 
Itmd,  so  beautifully  described  in  Burns'  Cotter's  Siuurdny  Ni^lit, 
of  which  I  shall  transcribe  the  last  Stanza,  nnd  close  tlie  trnnsnc- 
lions  of  the  day. 

Tltcn  kneeling  down  to  Ileavtn'*  Kteraal  Kiiig, 

'Vht  laint,  the  r«(licr,  and  the  hiisliand  pray* : 
*  Hope  jipririgv  exulting  on  triumphant  win^,' 

Tliat  thuk  they  all  shall  meet  in  future  day^ : 
'riiete  ever  ba»k  in  uncreated  ray*, 

No  more  to  sigh  cir  thed  tlie  bitter  tear, 
Together  hymning  tlieir  Creator's  praise, 

In  such  society  yet  still  more  dear, 
While  circling  time  moves  round  in  an  eternal  sphere ! 

November  16.  The  last  evening  was  very  cold,  and  this  morn- 
ing there  was  hard  frost.  I  prepared  to  take  my  leave  of  my  hos- 
pitable entertainers ;  but  I  could  not  get  away  till  atler  breakfast. 
The  old  man  recommended  me  particularly  to  call  upon  his  son, 
the  comptroller,  at  Albany ;  and  James  accompanied  mc  to  see  Mr* 
Proudfoot,  the  clergyman,  of  Scots  descent,  and  married  to  a  Scots 
woman,  one  of  the  "  bonnie  lasses"  of  Ayrshire.  Mr.  Proudfoot 
is  agreeably  settled,  and  to  his  ministerial  charge  joins  the  very 
laudable  occupation  of  teaching  an  academy,  a  plan  which  every 
country  gentleman  should  imitate.  Mrs.  Proudfoot  told  me  Mr' 
Law,  her  father,  with  his  family,  were  comfortably  settled  about  six 
miles  distant. 

From  this  place  to  Milton  is  12  miles,  the  lands  but  indifferent ; 
but  the  views  magnificent,  particularly  of  the  Vermont  mountains, 
which  can  be  seen  at  the  distance  of  60  or  70  miles.  Milton  is  a 
small  place,  consisting  of  a  few  frame  houses  only ;  but,  being  pain  t- 
eil  white,  they  look  neat :  and  the  town  is  adorned  with  a  very  pret  • 
ly  church  and  steeple. 
The  soil  is  good  round  Milton,  which  accounts  for  the  handsome 

appearance  of  the  houses ;   and  a  quakei-  meeting-house  denoted 


.  * 

r 
I. 


«   ► 


il 


Hi 


552  TRAVELS   IN 

that  tlic  grounil  was  partly  occupied  by  some  of  those  sagacious 
people. 

Beyoiul  this  the  soil  is  very  saiidy  ami  barren,  with  pine  trees  of 
a  small  growth  ;  but  the  people  seem  determined  to  make  amends 
lor  the  sterility  of  the  soil  in  another  way ;  for  passing  a  creek  1  saw 
nn  elegant  new  building  of  seven  stories  high,  which  had  been  re- 
cently erecteil  for  the  manufacture  of  woollen  cloth.  From  thencr 
the  road  winds  through  the  woods,  and  the  soil  continues  poor  all 
the  way  to  Ballston,  which  I  reached  in  the  evening. 

I  took  a  view  of  the  town  as  I  passed  through  it ;  and  it  is  soon 
seen,  as  it  contains  70  dwelling-houses  only.  It  lies  in  a  hollow, 
and  the  spring  is  at  the  lower  end  of  it,  near  a  small  creek.  Tlu 
houses  are  mostly  built  of  wood,  and  some  of  the  boarding  •house- 
are  very  handsome.  One  is  uncommonly  superb,  and  is  said  to 
have  cost  upwards  of  bO,000  dollars. 

Soon  after  I  reached  the  village,  I  went  to  see  the  spring.  It  is 
inclosed  by  a  railing,  the  interior  being  handsomely  paved  with 
stone,  and  the  water  is  secured  from  all  filth  by  a  metallic  tube  oi 
about  18  inches  diameter,  elevated  a  few  feet  above  the  top  of  the 
spring,  which  rises  copiously,  with  a  boiling  motion,  and  the  sur- 
plus water  passes  off  by  a  horizontal  pipe.  'J'he  water  was  quite  a- 
greeableto  my  taste,  and  produced  an  exhilarating  effect  upon  the 
spirits.  It  emits  a  light  smell,  but  not  unpleasant,  and  is  copiously 
impregnated  with  fixed  air,  or  carbonic  acid  gas 

The  medicinal  virtues  of  these  waters  have  of  late  attracted  much 
attention,  nnd  Ballston  has  become  a  place  of  fashionable  resort  in  the 
summer  season.  The  general  effect  produced  by  the  use  of  the 
waters  is  purgative,  diuretic,  tonic,  and  exhilarating.  They  are 
therefore  recommended  in  dyspepsia  in  all  its  complicated  forms, 
gravel,  rheumatisms,  diseases  of  the  urinary  system,  cutaneous  erup- 
tions, dropsy,  E^rophula,  worms,  and  some  cases  of  fevers.  They 
have  also  been  extolled  in  consumptions ;  but  their  power  is  very 
doubtful  in  that  disease,  to  which  indeed  it  is  obvious  that  the  only 
efllcacious  remedy  must  be  by  breathing ;  and  it  is  t^be  wislied 
that  the  faculty  would  turn  their  attention  to  it  more  in  that  point 
of  view.  I  have  heard  of  extraordinary  cures  being  performed  bj 
living  among  cows,  and  am  pretty  well  satisfied  that  a  specific  for 
ulcerated  lungs,  when  not  too  far  gone,  will  be  ultimately  found, 
and  successfully  administered  by  inspiration.  A  highly  oxidated 
.state  of  the  atmosphere  we  know  to  be  against  the  patient,  and  the 


NEW    YORK. 


55.1 


air  arising  from  the  decomposition  of  bnlniy  substances  is  in  his 
favour.  But  those  hints  are  by  the  by,  and  I  return  to  the  ana- 
lysis of  this  celebrated  spring.  But  who  shall  aj^rec  when  doctors 
differ  ?  Some  experimentalists  afllrm  they  contain  three  times 
their  bufk  of  fixed  air,  while  othors  say  they  do  not  contain  one- 
third  of  this  quantity.  This  difference,  being  more  than  200  per 
cent. !  is  much  too  large  for  me  to  reconcile ;  so  I  shall  content  my- 
self with  stating  their  probable  component  parts,  without  affixing  the 
proportions.  .    j_ 

J      S     S    '  S  Tlic  component  parts  of  water. 
Oxygen  gas.      j 

Carbonic  acid.  Carbonate  of  soda. 

Muriate  of  soda.  Carbonate  of  iron. 

Carbonate  of  lime.  Carbonate  of  magnesia. 

I  called  on  Mr«  Bix>wn,  editor  of  one  of  the  newspapers,  and  he 
introduced  iqe  to  a  Mr.  Mcintosh,  from  Crieff,  in  Scotland,  who 
told  me  he  was  very  well  acquainted  with  my  father's  relations.  He 
mentioned  a  fact  which  I  knew  before,  that  the  original  name  was 
Graham,  and  mentioned  that  some  of  our  family,  of  the  panic  of 
Graliam,  were  settled  in  New  York.  From  these  two  gentlemen 
I  got  all  needful  iuformatipn,  from  which  I  shall  transcribe  a  few  ad- 
ditional noti^s. 

Ballston  is  situated  in  latitude  i^S^  north,  and  is  28  miles  from 
Albany.  There  are  two  roads,  one  by  Schenectady,  the  other  by 
Waterford ;  and  it  makes  a  very  agreeable  jaunt  to  go  the. one  way 
and  return  the  other.  Schenectady  is  one  of  the  finest  inland  cities 
ia  America.  On  the  other  road  is  the  pleasant  village  of  Water- 
ford,  and  the  Cohoes  falls. 

The  village  is  mostly  supported  by  the  visitors  to  the  springs,  so 
that,  except  in  the  summer  season,  it  is  but  a  dull  place,  Board- 
ing at  the  principal  houses  is  8  dollars  per  week ;  but  there  are  small- 
er hoiises  having  inferior  accommodations,  at  4-  dollars.  There  is 
an  academy  and  a  library  in  the  villiige,  and  besides  taverns  and 
boarding-houses,  there  are  five  dry-goods  and  grocery  stores. 
There  are  two  ptiblic  papers  iskqed  weeKIy,  of  which  the  one  circu- 
li^tes  700,  the  other  400.  ' 

The  prevailiiig  winds  are  from  the  north-west,  ai^d  the  winters  are 

cold. 

Saratoga  springs  are  seyen  miles  to  the  northwartj,  and  are  cs- 
tcfmed  stronger  than  tboie  of  Ballston. 

70 


'M; ' 


11 


1 


IS    *   ( 
,   .  i 


k  ■ 

I  I 


554 


TRAVEIiS    IN 


CHAPTER  CVIII. 

Watafordi — Cohoes  Jails, — Albanj/. 

November  nth.  There  had  been  a  great  deal  of  rain  last 
night  and  this  morning;  but  it  cleared  up  about  1 1  o'clock^  and  I 
set  out  at  12.  The  land  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  was  poor, 
and  continued  so  durmg  the  first  three  miles  of  my  journey.  I  pass- 
ed a  methodist  meeting-house,  after  which  the  land  improves,  ihe 
soil  being  mostly  clay,  and  the  timber  partly  oak  and  beech.  The 
land  is  level,  and  ihe  farms  good ;  the  farm-houses  bearing  testi- 
mony to  the  accumulation  of  wealth.  A  mile  further  on  the  soil 
becomes  poor,  and  the  houses  in  their  turn  bear  witness  to  the  po- 
verty of  the  inhabitants.  Two  miles  through  these  lands  there  is  an 
opening,  and  a  most  extensive  view  to  the  eastward.  Ten  miles 
'rom  Ballston  1  passed  a  stream  of  water  which  nobody  could  tell 
me  the  name  of:  after  this  I  passed  through  a  farm  on  the  side  of 
a  hill,  two  miles  from  which  I  came  to  a  tavern,  where  I  stopped 
to  feed  my  horse. 

Leaving  this,  the  land  still  continued  poor  and  sandy,  the  timber 
mostly  pine  trees ;  but  the  settlements  are  pretty  thick  for  five  miles, 
to  a  little  village,  and  both  soil  and  settlements  imprdve  for  four 
miles  more  to  Waterford,  where  I  took  up  my  lodgings  at  the  Union 
coffee-house. 

Waterford  was  laid  out  about  the  year  1783,  and  is  handsome- 
ly situated  above  the  confluencp  of  the  Mohawk  and  Hudson  rivers. 
The  streets  are  regular,  crossing  one  another  at  right  angles;  and 
it  consists  of  about  130  houses,  containing  about  1000  inhabitants. 
The  houses  are  generally  good,  gome  of  them  elegant ;  they  are  part- 
ly frainic  and  partly  brick,  but  the  taste  for  brick  predominates. 
The  public  buildings  arc  2  churches  and  a  school-house ;  and  there 
are  4"  taverns,  25  stores,  and  1  newspaper.  The  inhabitants  of  Wa- 
terford consist  chiefly  of  mechanics  and  their  families ;  and  there 
are  two  clergymen,  three  doctors,  three  schoolmasters  and  ten  law- 
yers. The  village  lots  are  65  feet  in  front,  by  130  deep,  and  sell  for 
from  100  to  2500  dollars.  Boarding  is  2  dollars  50  cents  per  week, 
by  the  year :  the  prices  of  provisions  are  nearly  the  same  as  at  Al- 
bany. There  are  several  mills  on  the  Mohawk  river  below  the  falls, 
one  of  which  is  near  the  confluence  of  the  Mohawk  and  Hudson. 


i  :} 


NEW    YORK."  555 

A  company  has  recently  been  incorporated  to  carry  on  manufac- 
tures at  this  place,  and  they  propose  to  make  every  article  for  which 
they  find  a  demand. 

The  country  round  is  handsome  and  very  healthy,  and  the  soil 
is  possessed  of  every  variety  from  good  to  bad.  The  price  of  land 
is  from  2  dollars  SO  cents  to  7/5  dollars  per  acre.  Good  wood  land 
sells  as  high  as  that  in  the  improved  state. 

The  Hudson  is  navigable  to  this  place  in  vessels  of  50  tons  bur- 
den, and  the  legislature  of  New  York  have  of  late  granted  45,000 
dollars  to  improve  the  navigation  between  Waterford  and  Troy. 
There  is  a  handsome  bridge  over  the  Hudson  at  this  place. 

November  18th.  The  morning  was  clear,  with  hard  frost;  the 
wind  north-west.  Previous  to  leavinff  Waterford  I  rode  to  the 
middle  of  the  bridge,  and  had  a  view  of  the  river  and  surrounding 
scenery.  The  bridge  has  six  piers,  and  is  handsomely  built  of  wood. 
The  river  is  rapid,  and  the  junction  with  the  Mohawk  is  seen  a 
little  below.  There  are  a  number  of  islands  on  the  west  side,  and 
the  town  of  Lansingburg  is  handsomely  situated  on  the  east  side. 
The  bottom  lands  are  good  i  but  the  country  soon  swells  out  into 
high  hills,  of  which  the  sides  are  poor,  aiid  covered  with  pine  wood. 

As  I  returned,  I  kept  along  the  banks  of  the  Mohawk,  where  I 
observed  the  current  very  rapid,  and  the  soil  poor  and  sandy.  A 
mile  and  a  half  from  Waterford  there  is  a  bridge  across  the  river. 
On  approaching  it  the  road  passes  through  a  bed  of  black  slate, 
which  seems  to  indicate  a  stratum  of  coal  below.  About  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  above  the  bridge,  the  Cohoes  falls  appear,  and,  from  the 
bridge  fronting  them,  there  is  a  very  fine  view.  I  stood  a  while 
to  contemplate  it,  but  my  admiration  was  lost  in  the  rrcoUection. 
of  the  amazing  falls  of  Niagara.  The  river  is  here  about  250 
yards  wide,  and  the  falls  are  perjiendicular,  but  some  parts  are 
broken,  and  the  rocks  are  to  be  seen  through  them.  At  the  end 
of  the  bridge  I  paid  a  toll  of  6^  cents ;  and  close  by  the  toll-bar 
I  perceived  the  nine  mile  stone  from  Albany. 

The  road  proceeds  close  by  the  river  side,  the  hills  being  pret- 
ty lofty  to  the  right,  the  soil  indifferent,  but  the  road  excellent. 
Six  miles  above  Albany,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  is 
Troy,  a  handsome  village,  mostly  built  with  brick.  Towards  Al- 
bany I  passed  an  elegant  house,  the  seat  of  Mr.  Van  Rensselaer, 
patron  of  the  city ;  and  passing  through  well-improved  fields,  I 
arrived  at  11  o'clock,  when  I  took  up  my  lodgings  at  the  coffer-:  ■ 
liouse  in  State-slreet. 


■  1 '  ■,1'  1 


■Huil 


bbO 


TRAVELS   IX 


My  tour  of  discavay  being  completed,    f  had  no  very  im- 
portant  inturmation  to  receive  at  Alhutiy ;   but  I  still  continued 
my  journal,  and  Mr.  Fellows  of  Gci.ev.i  having  favoured  me  with 
letters  of  introduction  to  Mr.  8outiiwick  and  Mr.  North,  these 
two  gcHtlenien  fehoucd  me  a  great  deal  of  attention,  and  obligingly 
answered  all  my  inquiries.      In   obedience  to   the  request  of  my 
friend  Mr.  M'Intyre,  I  culled  on  his  son,  the  comptroller,  and  he 
also  showed  me  much  attention.     I  was  quite  pleased  with  my  visit. 
Alijany  is  the  seat  of  government  of  the  state  of  New  York, 
and  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Hudson  river,  at  the  head 
of  tide  water,  ISO  miles  from  the  sea.     It  runs  nearly  a  mile  along 
tiic  river,  and  about  half  a  mile  back  from  it.     The  city  ii*  J'-'idcd 
into  streets,  some  of  which  are  spacious,  but  others  rather  narrow 
jiiid  irregular.     They  are  however  pretty  convenient,  and  there  is 
a  line  of  excellent  wharfs  and  warehouses.    The  houses  amount  to 
about  1300,  and  the  inhabitants  to  nearly  10,000.     The  houses  are 
mostly  built  of  brick,  and  many  of  them  are  elegant.     The  state- 
house  stands  on  an  elevated  situation  at  the  head  of  State'Strect, 
and  is  a  very  handsome  building,  with  most  splendid  and  convenient 
apartments  for  the  legislature  to  meet  in.     The  old  state-house  ie 
also  in  State-street,  and  is  occupied  by  the  different  public  offices. 
The  other  public  buildings  are  the  arsenal,   powder-house,  city 
library,  3  banks,  10  churches,  2  market  houses,  2  masonic  lodges, 
a  theatre,  and  Cook's  reading-room,  an  institution  probably  better 
supplied  with  newspapers,  and  other  periodical  publications,  than 
any  other  in  the  United  States. 

The  city  is  well  supplied  with  water.  There  are  two  excellent 
springs  three  miles  to  the  westward,  from  whence  it  is  conveyed  in 
pities,  to  every  part  of  the  city.  Lots  in  the  principal  streets  are 
as  high  as  in  New  York,  and  the  rent  of  houses  and  stores  is  in 
proportion.  This  being  the  great  mart,  in  which  the  trade  of  an 
exten^ive  back  country  centres,  it  is  well  supplied  with  provisions ; 
but  the  outlet  to  tlie  great  commercial  city,  New  York,  is  so  easy, 
by  the  tine  river  Hud.son,  that  all  articles  which  con  be  easily  ship- 
ped, arc  kept  prclty  high.  Flour  is  about  10  dollars  per  barrel ; 
beef  6  dollars ;  pork  5  dollars  per  cwt. ;  bacon  12  cents  per  lb.; 
fowls  V2i  each;  gccso  25  ;  turkeys  62  j  cyder  1  dollar  50  cents  per 
barrel;  beer  3  to  10  dollars,  according  to  quality;  porter  7  dol- 
lars 25  cents.  Board  from  2  to  4  dollars.  House-rent  for  me- 
<4ianic8  20  to  GO  dollars 


KBW   YORK.  557 

The  principal  manufactures  at  Albany  are  tliose  of  grain,  brow- 
ing and  distilling.     There  arc  no  manufactories  of  cloth  in  the  city, 
but  there  are  several  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  there  is  u  dispusi- 
tion  in  the  citizens  to  encourage  tliem,  though  apparently  ngainst 
their  interest,  the  trade  of  the  city  being  almost  wholly  commercial. 
The  principal  trade  is  by  the  river,  on  which  is  sent  down  grain 
and  provision*!,  timber,  malt-liquors,  and  spirits ;  and  they  receive 
in  return  groceries,  dry-goods,  hardware,    and  crockery,    to  sup- 
ply a  great  part  of  the  country.     American  manufactured  gloss, 
however,  begins  to  make  a  prominent  appearance  in  the  warehouse ; 
and  they  will,  no  doubt,  feel  the  advantage  of  other  articles  of 
American  manufacture  soon.     Albany,  from  its  situation,  must  be 
always  a  place  of  extended  commerce.     At  present  it   suffers  by 
the  redaction  of  an  overstrained  foreign  commerce,  but  tliat  wilt 
be  but  temporary.     Internal  manufactures  and  commerce,  being 
once  organized,  will  more  than  compensate  for  the  loss  of  the  other. 
The  citizens  of  Albany  are  very  mixed.    The  original  settlement 
wns  by  the  Dutch,  and  their  descendants  form  a  very  prominent 
part  of  the  society.     Of  Scottish  settlers  there  are  a  great  many, 
and  the  rest  are  principally  New  Englanders.    In  such  an  assem- 
blage, we  may  naturally  look  for  industry  and  enterprise,  and  a 
general  attention  to  education  and  the  improvement  of  the  mind, 
all  of  which  are  yery  perceptible  in  the  citizens.    There  are  good 
mechanics  in  all  the  different  branches ;  and  there  are  10  clergymen, 
20  doctors,  and  45  lawyers.     The  schools  are  numerous ;   the  h- 
brary  and  reading-room  have  been  already  noticed.    Two  newspa- 
pers are  published,  each  twice  a  week,  which  have  a  pretty  exten- 
sive circulation.     That  the  place  is  healthy,  appears  in  the  counte- 
nances of  the  ladies,  many  of  whom  are  handsome,  with  beautiful 
florid  complexions.     That  it  is  cold  in  winter,  is  indicated  by  the 
general  use  of  stoves,  the  hard  frost  in  the  ground,  and  the  appear- 
ance of  snow ;  so,  for  fear  of  being  storm-staid^  1  shall  close  this 
•hapter,  and  hurry  off  to  New  York. 


I.; 


CHAPTER  CIX. 

North  Bivjr  Steam  Boat, — Highlands, — Stony  Point, — New  Yorl^. 

November  20th.     My  anticipations  were  realized  ;  there  was 
i  considerable  fall  of  sno'^  this  morning.    I  engaged  a  passage  for 


:  mm\ 


558 


TRAVELS    IN 


my  horse  by  one  of  the  packets,  fare  4  dollars,  exclusive  of  board ; 
and  for  myself  by  the  steam-boat,  fare  7  dollars,  including  board; 
and,  getting  on  board  of  that  elegant  conveyance,  we  started  from 
the  wharf  at  9  o'clock.  The  snow  continued  to  fall,  and  the 
weather  was  very  hazy,  so  that  we  could  not  enjoy  the  view  on  the 
river,  but  we  had  a  very  comfortable  view  in  the  boat.  The  cabin 
was  sufficiently  large  to  accommodate  80  or  100  people;  the  births 
were  neatly  mounted  with  drapery,  and  contained  good  clean  bed- 
ding; there  was  a  good  stove  in  the  room ;  our  company,  though 
not  numerous,  were  sociable  and  agreeable;  and  our  captain  kept 
a  most  excellent  table.  1  should  mention  that  this  was  the  North 
river  steam^boat,  captain  Roorbach,  and  to  that  gentleman's  po- 
liteness I  was  indebted  for  a  variety  of  information  regarding  this 
river.  Four  other  steam-boats  were  upon  the  river,  but  it  was  sup- 
posed that  two  of  them  would  be  stopped,  as  they  were  started 
without  the  sanction  of  the  patentees.  A  most  superb  new  boat  had 
just  been  started  by  the  patentees,  Livingston  and  Fulton,  who  arc 
entitled  to  great  praise  for  their  exertions  in  bringing  into  ac- 
tive operation  an  invention  of  such  importance  to  the  navigation 
of  the  American  inland  waters. 

The  banks  of  the  river  are  nearly  the  same  as  above  Albany,  for 
SO  miles,  to  Hudson ;  the  soil  is  pretty  good,  and  the  settlements 
thick  on  both  sides;  The  river  is  a  noble  stream,  augmented,  as 
it  proceeds,  by  a  gi'eat  number  of  tributary  streams  on  each  side. 
Towards  night,  we  were  four  miles  below  Poughkeepsie,  and  the 
captain,  thniking  it  too  dark  to  run  on,  came  to  anchor,  and  re- 
mained during  the  night. 

November  21st.  The  morning  was  cold  and  cloudy,  with  a 
north-west  wind ;  and  a  good  deal  of  snow  lay  on  the  ground. 
We  got  under  weigh  at  6  o'clock.  At  7  we  were  opposite  New- 
burgh,  a  good  landing  on  the  west  side,  and  five  miles  beyond 
this,  we  readied  the  highlands,  through  which  we  sailed  20  miles. 
Here  the  banks  are  steep  and  very  romantic,  in  many  places  re- 
iiembling  the  scenery  on  the  Ohio ;  but  there  is  a  vast  difference  in 
the  fertility  of  the  soil.  On  the  Ohio  it  is  rich,  with  a  most  luxu- 
riant profusion  of  timber.  Here  it  is  poor,  and  the  timber  is  small 
in  proportion.  Each  river,  however,  has  its  peculiar  beauties. 
We  passed  a  number  of  cascades  issuing  from  the  hills.  At  Stony 
Point,  the  remains  of  an  old  fort  arc  still  to  be  seen,  in  a  very  coni- 
niauding  situation.  Here  the  riyer  makes  a  sharp  turn  to  the  east' 
and  the  place  was  pointed  out  where  the  Americans  had  a  chain 


KEW    YORK. 


byo 


across  in  the  time  of  war,  which  we  were  informcil  was  broken  by 
the  British  ships.  The  river  appears  here  like  a  small  lake,  and 
being  land*locked  on  all  sides  by  lofty  hills,  forms  a  romantic  and 
lingular  view.  Soon  after  this,  we  emerged  from  among  the 
mountains. 

When  we  approached  the  low  lands,  we  saw  a  number  of  very 
handsome  seats.  The  land  on  the  east  side  is  low,  and  appears 
fertile.  To  the  eastward  a  bay  is  perceived,  which  appears  like  a 
continuance  of  the  river,  while  the  real  channel  is  apparently  lost 
among  the  mountains.  The  west  bank  continues  high,  though 
cnltivated  a  considerable  way  down.  At  length,  however,  it  be- 
comes a  craggy  precipice,  almost  perpendicular,  and  upwards  of 
500  feet  high.  The  scenery  is  altogether  very  grand,  and  in  sum- 
mer, when  the  fields  and  woods  are  in  blossom,  sailing  on  this 
river,  by  the  steam-boat,  must  be  delightful. 

There  are  good  turnpike  roads  on  each  side  of  the  river,  and 
there  are  very  thick  settlements  all  the  way  between  New  York 
and  Albany.     The  principal  towns  on  the  cast  side  are: 


Kinderhook 

Hudson 

Redhook 

Rhynbeck 

Poughkecpsie 

Fishkill 

Peekskill 


Inhabitants. 
250 
4000 


500 


InliabitantSb 
On  the  west  side, 
New  Baltimore 
Cochsakia 

KaUkill  2000 

Kingston 
Newburg 


i 


We  passed  the  Jersey  line  on  the  west  sitle,  and,  soon  after, 
the  river  which  separates  York  Island  from  the  main  land.  At 
five  o'clock  we  reached  New  York,  where  I  was  safely  landed  on 
the  wharf,  after  travelling  nearly  2400  miles :  and  with  gratitude 
to  the  Supreme  DeincI,  for  conducting  me  through  fhe  journey 
(0  much  to  my  satifaction,  I  proceeded  to  the  house  of  my  friend, 
where  I  was  farther  gratified  by  learning  that  my  family  and 
friends  wCTe  all  well.  * 

In  my'  progress  through  this  interesting  state  I  met  with  "  A 
Brief  Topc^rapbical  and  Statistical  Manual,"  a  woak  of  con- 
(iderablc  merit,  from  which  I  have  extracted  the  following  statis- 
tical table  and  remarks. 


1 » 

ill 

1    ■ 


M 


fir  '. 


■M 


560 


TKAVtLS  IN 


H 

? 

p* 

:A 

D"5n 

S    "^i 

'■^- 

Countietk 

^ 

Popu- 
lation. 

? 

^ 

Yards  0^ 
Cloth. 

6 

1 

Ml 

a. 

a 

1 

3. 

3 
ti 

• 

F 

Albany 

8 

34661 

S 

11C9 

232554 

Bl 

4 

5 

10 

10 

8 

Allegnny 

5 

1942 

1 

51 

14148 

2 

4 

Uroome 

6 

8130 

A 

409 

106210 

6 

9 

1 

1 

Columbia 

11 

32300 

6 

1235 

616780 

34 

8 

1 

8 

22 

23 

Clint<»n 

5 

8002 

4 

218 

47863 

12 

1 

4 

4 

Cayuga 

10   1984.^ 

10 

1360 

340871 

19 

47 

11 

11 

Corflandt 

6 

8868 

7 

400 

67226 

7 

4 

rhciiango 

14 

SI  704 

14 

890 

220849 

8 

25 

4 

13 

13 

Chataiighque 

2 

2381 

3  inciu. 

n  Genesee 

Cntaragus 

1 

4.58 

0 

ib. 

ib. 

Duchem 

16 

51434 

14 

1342 

358059 

80 

25 

a 

35 

25 

Delaware 

14 

20503 

11 

886 

202096 

29 

U 

se 

13 

14 

EsseK 

11 

9477 

8 

272 

104285 

7 

8 

6 

3 

6 

Franklin 

4 

2717 

3 

£3 

15910 

2 

2 

Greene 

7 

19536 

7 

^14 

50357 

25 

4 

12 

11 

Crenesee 

10 

12588 

4 

600 

194719 

24 

19 

I 

6 

7 

Herkimet 

10 

22046 

8 

1600 

296535 

31 

14 

16 

14 

Jefferson 

12 

15140 

12 

660 

160503 

16 

16 

2 

n 

8 

5 

King's 

6 

8303 

1 

112 

40465 

6 

2 

3 

Lewis 

7 

6433 

5 

306 

76500 

11 

7 

4 

4 

Montgomery 

15 

41214 

11 

1288 

237252 

45 

6 

20 

19 

Madisoa 

11 

25144 

9 

1468 

350775 

31 

27 

2 

13 

13 

Ncw-York 

1 

96973 

2 

3 

2757 

9 

11 

15 

<j 

Niagara 

4 

6132 

7 

inclu. 

in  Genesee 

5 

Otsego 

21 

38802 

14 

203: 

470816 

36 

28 

1 

32 

2- 

Onondago 

13 

25987 

10 

1016 

306586 

31 

26 

2 

4 

16 

21 

Ontario 

24 

4m32 

16 

1903 

524777 

37 

78 

10 

20 

22 

Oneida 

2<l 

33792 

17 

720 

254270 

20 

24 

4 

24 

10 

Orange 

U 

34347 

12 

1245 

316081 

49 

57 

2 

11 

29 

Queen's 

6 

19336 

7 

486 

187031 

10 

^ 

9 

8 

4 

Rockland 

4 

7758 

5 

329 

28044 

7 

7 

4 

1 

5 

Richmond 

4 

5347 

0 

59 

32100 

2 

3 

2 

Rensselaer 

13 

36306 

8 

1824 

447111 

28 

2 

1 

14 

12 

Suffolk. 

9 

21113 

21 

1062 

213697 

37 

8 

7 

Sullivan 

7 

eioa 

5 

262 

50991 

11 

I 

Schenectady 

4 

1020J 

2 

30 

7500 

1 

3 

1 

4 

Saratoga 

14 

33147 

12 

1133 

S66765 

?3 

2 

16 

7 

Schohwie 

8 

18945 

7 

736 

171953 

14 

4 

14 

13 

12 

St  Lawrence 

12 

7885 

10 

347 

56073 

19 

2 

5 

2 

Senccft 

7 

16609 

9 

601 

172713 

li 

26 

7 

10 

SteubcB 

9 

7246 

9 

309 

94O40 

5 

21 

£ 

2 

Tioga 

9 

789V 

8 

289 

102080 

7 

99 

5 

5 

Ulster 

13 

S657G 

6 

1569 

34862« 

41 

17 

15 

26 

West  Caiester 

l\ 

30272 

11 

365 

336470 

9 

16 

7 

8 

WanUogton 

44289 

19 

8S00 

786254 

57 

2 

S 

11 

18 

13 

\                    Total, 

452 

959220 

Z«433068 

9099703     l«67 

591 

42 

1241427 

413 

.« 


NEW    YORK 


561 


The  sheep  returned  for  Duchess  county  wore  813,855;  Albany 
3*,342;  Cayuga  49,872;  Oiiondago  44,893;  Jcflcrson  20,000. 
It  is  calculated  that  the  whole  state  contains  1,280,000. 

The  horses  in  Duchess  county  were  14,341.  It  is  calculated 
that  the  whole  state  contains  300,000. 

The  cattle  in  Duchess  county  were  51,650.  It  is  calculated 
that  the  whole  state  contains  1 ,000,000. 

Roads  and  bridges,  exclusive  of  tiiose  made  by  counties  and 
individuals,  are  supported  by  135  turnpike  companies,  with  a 
capital  of  7,558,000  dollars ;  and  36  bridge  companies,  with  a 
capital  of  509,000  dollars.  The  turnpike  roads  contracted  lor 
extend  over  4,500  miles,  about  one  third  of  which  is  completed. 

The  bank  stock  of  the  state  amounts  to  11,690,000  dollars. 

The  school  fund  amounts  to  483,326  dollars,  exclusive  of 
314,770  acres  of  land.  The  revenue  last  year  amounted  to 
36,427  dollars.  i    . 

The  state  funds,  exclusive  of  about  one  million  acres  of  land, 
amount  to  4,191,803  dollars;  and  the  state  debts  are  880,000 
dollars. 


fi 


m 


V 


^^ 


CHAPTER  ex. 


United  States.  • 

The  objects  of  the  greatest  importance  in  the  United  States 
have  already  been  noticed  in  a  review  of  the  individual  states  and 
territories ;  but  there  are  a  few  circumstances  of  a  general  nature, 
which  can  with  more  propriety  be  introduced  under  this  head. 

Viewing  Louisiana  as  forming  a  part  of  the  territory  of  the  , 
United  States,  we  may  consider  the  country  as   extending  from 
north  latitude  29"  to  beyond  48°;   and  from  east  longitude  10°  • 
to  west  longitude  36°.     The  extreme  length,  from   east   to  west, 
is  about  2160  miles,  and  breadth,  from  north  to  south,  1494.  The  . 
medium  length  is  about  1780  miles,  and  the  medium  breadth  about 
JOeo,  making  nearly  1,883,806   square  miles,  or   1205.635,840 


acres. 


The  face  of  the  country,  mountains,  rivers,  minerals,  soil,  and 
I  climate,  have  all  been  partially  noticed  ;  but  attempts  have  of  late 
I  been  made  to  establish  a  general  theory  of  the  climate  oftlit; 

71 


{ ■  ' 


i 


.«   :'? 


,'j62  THAVPLl    IN 

(limntc  of  ihe  I'liiud  fe»tatC9,  nml  1  bliull  take  u  brid"  review  ol 
tbiit  ««ul»ji'il. 

Volncv,  the  Cflebiatcil  French  trnvellcr,  was  the  first  who  de- 
vilopetl  this  theory.  1  le  seems  to  huve  studied  the  subject  with 
iirdeiil  nttenlion,  tind  to  have  been  assisted  by  intbrnuUion  tVum 
gentlemen  ol  accurate  observation  in  America.  His  work  dis- 
pluys  f^reut  i)!i}>ieal  nsearch.  Dr.  Meusc  has  followed  on  the 
sjune  subject.  Adoptinjj;  Volncy's  theory  ns  a  basis,  he  has  avail- 
ed himself  of  additional  local  information,  and  endeavoured 
to  correct  its  errors,  and  supply  its  defects.  These  works  contuio 
information  on  this  important  subject  well  worth  the  attention  of 
the  stuilent  in  physical  science.  1  shall  not,  however,  review 
tlicm  in  detail,  but  briefly  state  u  few  general  conclusions  result- 
inp;  from  them,  taken  in  connection  with  other  tiicts  that  have 
come  to  my  knowledge  during  a  personal  investigation. 

The  clinuitc  of  the  United  States,  independent  of  the  dKTcr- 
onec  of  temperatuire  imhiced  by  a  change  of  latitude,  seems  to  In 
ailected  by  five  prominent  circumstances: 

1st.  The  trade  winds. 

2d.  The  gulf  streanu 

3d.  The  fogs  of  Ncwibundland. 

4lhr  The  winds  from  the  polar  regions. 

5th.  The  Allegany  mountains.* 
1st.  The  trade  whids  were  noticed,  in  chap.  II.  as  affecting 
the  ocean.  I  shall  now  trace  them  in  their  progress  over  the 
land.  By  looking  at  a  chart  of  the  Atlantic  ocean,  it  will  be 
perceived  that  the  coast  of  South  America  has  a  slanting  di- 
rection from  the  equator  to  Trinidad ;  and  it  may  be  noticed  that 
this  slant  is  prolonged  to  the  south-east,  to  cape  St.  Roque,  in 
south  latitude  5",  west  longitude  36°  2G'.  The  course  is  nearly 
north-west,  the  distance  above  2000  miles,  and  the  interior  of 
the  country  is  composed  of  very  high  lands,  rising  in  many  places 
to  lofly  mountains.  This  naturally  slants  off  the  current  of  uii 
to  the  northward,  and  by  contracting  its  bulk  increases  its  veloci- 
ty ;  its  motion  being  still  further  accelerated  by  the  same  means 
in  its  passage  through  the  Caribbee  Islands.  In  its  progress 
through  the  Caribbean   sea  it  is  further  contracted,    and  gets  a 

*   Hy  ihe  general  tenn,  Allegany  muuutaiiis,    is  meant  the  whole  chuin  of  nioun- 
tuins  cxtcndiqg  irotn  the  Mississippi   Temtuiy  to  the  northern  extremity-  of  the  unioQ. 


NKW     YOllK.  363 

second  InipulHf  to  tlio  northward  lu-twecn  tho  lofty  island  of  Ja- 
maica and  tlic  Mos/|iiito  short* ;  and  finally  passes  through  the 
narrow  channel  between  Yucatan  and  the  island  of  Cuba,  from 
whence  it  issues  to  the  northward,  not  unlikf  the  wind  from  a  pair 
of  bellows.  It  then  diverges,  in  three  ;j;rand  divisions,  alon^  tho 
North  American  continent.  One  branch  tulios  u  north-west  di- 
rection, and,  passinj^  over  New  Mexico,  and  thence  l)etween  the 
Stony  mountains  and  the  Pacific  ocean,  spends  its  force  about 
north  latitude  52°.  Another  branch  takes  a  north-east  dirociion, 
blowing -partly  over  the  mountains,  but  principally  between  the 
mountains  and  the  Atlantic,  and  spends  its  forte  about  the  Poto- 
mac or  Patapsco  rivers.  This  brunch  is  afll-i  ted  jiaitly  by  the 
mountains,  and  partly  by  the  trade  winds  to  the  north  of  the 
islands.  It  is  very  unsteady,  -vhich  circumstance  sirbjects  that  ch's- 
trict  of  country  to  rapitl  thau^e^.  But  the  most  important 
hranch  to  this  inquiry  is  that  which  proceeds  up  the  valley  of  the 
Mississippi,  which  may  bo  reckoned  to  extend  fro«i  tho  Allefjany 
mountains  to  the  chains  of  mountains  be3'(md  the  Mississippi,  an 
immense  region,  known  by  the  name  of  the  Western  Country. 
The  operation  of  this  current  was  quite  visible  in  the  coui-se  of 
my  progi'ess  through  that  country.  From  the  time  I  fvisscd  the 
Allegany  mountains  until  I  left  Pittsburg,  it  prevailed  seven  day-> 
out  of  ten.  In  my  passage  down  the  Ohio  it  prevailed  fifteen 
out  of  twenty-six,  and  five  of  the  others  were  calm.  From  the  fall.i 
of  the  Ohio  to  lake  Erie  it  prevailed  twenty  days  out  of  thirty -one, 
and  two  days  were  calm.  From  Cleveland,  on  lake  Erie,  to 
Utica,  it  prevailed  ten  days  out  of  twenty- three.  J  have  elsewhere 
remarked,  that  a  branch  of  it  seems  occasionallv  to  lilow  down 
the  Mohawk  river  ;  and  its  influence  is  often  sensiblv  felt  at  Mon- 
trcal,  on  the  St.  Lawrence.  It  is  obvioits  tbat  thii  wind  must 
have  great  influence  upon  the  climate;  it  tans  tlie  air  in  summer, 
and  renders  it  mild  and  humid  in  winter. 

2d.  'Hie  gulf  stream  was  noticed  chap.  IL  This  current  be- 
ing warmer  than  the  surrounding  oxrean,  the  atmosphere  above 
ii  is  proportionably  aHected,  and  being  contiguous  to  the  American 
coast,  the  winds  blowing  over  it,  impregnated  with  its  wannili 
and  nioisture,  will  influence  the  climate  accordingly.  Tins  influ- 
ence is  particularly  felt  in  the  southern  stateu,  where  tlie  stream  is 
from  within  30  to  60  miles  of  the  coast.  Beyond  Cape  Hatteras  it 
|snot  so  apparent,  and  beyond  Cape  Cod  it  is  hardly  known.  South 


\'     '\ 


m 


II  i  :^ 


&CI:  TRAVELS   IN 

and  80utli-<>ast  windR  are  those  subject  to  be  influenced  by  it  on 
the  American  couut. 

3d.  The  fogs  of  Newfoundland  are  of  great  extent,  and  lie  in  a 
north •oubt  direction  from  the  United  Statesi.  North*east  wind^, 
therefore,  will  in  spring,  suninier,  and  fall,  be  chilly  and  damp, 
in  winter  they  will  be  loaded  with  snt)W.  The  part  of  the  United 
States  most  subject  to  their  influence  arc  the  New  England  states, 
with  jnirt  of  the  statcj?  of  New  Yotk,  Pcnnnylvania,  and  New  Jer- 
sey. 

4-th.  The  winds  from  the  polar  regions  are  well  known  in  the 
United  States  by  the  name  of  north-westers ;  and  it  is  somewhat 
singular  that  they  are  much  more  frequent  to  the  east  than  to  ihu 
wcstof  the  mountains;  and  often  exhibit  a  very  diflcrent  appcnr- 
iince.  To  the  east  they  are  cold,  cool,  or  agreeable,  according  to  the 
season  and  situation  ;  and  are  uniforndy  pure,  dry,  elastic,  and 
invigorating.  To  the  west  they  assume  every  variety,  but  arc 
often  accompanied  by  clouds,  rain,  hail,  and  snow ;  particularly 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  great  lakes.  To  account  for  these  circum- 
stances, it  is  necessary  to  view  the  Allegany  mountains  as  connect- 
ed with  the  subject;  and  I  cannot  better  elucidate  it  than  in  the 
words  of  the  ingenious  Volncy.  "  The  Allegany  is  the  shore  of 
an  airy  lake,  whicli,  below  the  level  of  the  top  of  this  bank,  is  at 
rest,  unalFceted  by  the  movements  of  the  stratum  above  it.  Hence 
the  souih-wcst  wind  traverses  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi  and 
Ohio,  Kentucky  and  the  contiguous  countries,  as  Jar  as  the  valley 
of  tlic  St.  Lawrence,  by  which  it  flows  off,  while  the  north-west 
stream  glides  over  it  diagonally,  and,  overtopping  the  highest 
mountains,  pours  down  on  the  maritime  country,  where  its  force 
is  augmtiited  by  its  own  specific  gravity,  the  slope  of  the  earth's 
surface,  and  the  vacuity  above  the  ocean  in  the  south -cast." 

The  niost  remarkable  feature  in  the  climate  east  of  the  moun- 
tains is  the  sudden  and  j^rcat  changes,  from  heat  to  cold  and  from 
moist  to  dry.  These  changes  are  most  renjarkable  on  the  sea- 
board. In  llic  interior  the  climate  is  more  settled,  and  amongst 
the  mountains  it  is  colder  than  to  the  east  or  west  of  them.  In 
the  western  country  the  climate  is  more  settled  and  more  mild 
than  to  the  east  of  the  mountains,  but  this  district  is  subject  to  a 
"ood  deal  of  rain  in  winter.  .-         .  >     ■ 

Voln»;y  has  drawn  thefollowinggencral  conclusions  on  the  subject: 
1st.  The  climate  of  the  maritime  region  is  colder  in  winter,  and 


NIW     YORK. 


565 


firmer  in  summer,  than  that  of  the  countries  in  Europe  under  the 
same  parallels. 

'idly.  'J'he  daily  variations  are  more  abrupt  in  the  maritime  coun- 
try (liAM  in  Kurupc. 

3d.  I'hr  temperature  of  tho  valleys  of  the  Ohio  and  Minsissippi 
is  warmer,  in  the  proportion  of  three  de<;rees  of  latitude,  than  that 
of  the  maritime  districts. 

The  two  first  positions  arc  correct,  and  the  lust  is  so  also  as  to 
the  general  effect  upon  vegetables  and  fruits ;  but  to  convey  a  cor- 
rect idea  of  the  matter,  it  should  be  kept  in  view,  that  while  the 
western  country  is  warmer  upon  the  whole,  it  is  cooler  in  the  Kum- 
nier  season  than  the  same  parallels  on  the  other  side  of  the  moun- 
tains. This,  however,  has  its  limits,  for  it  appears  that  to  the 
north  of  4'4'''  or  45"  the  eastern  and  western  country  are  nearly  as- 
similated, and  to  the  south  beyond  32°  the  same  effect  takes  phicc, 
with  this  exception,  that  the  breeze  to  the  westward  is  more  permn* 
iient  and  steady,  wliich  will  probably  contribute,  with  other  fa- 
vourable circumstances,  to  render  New  Orleans  more  healthy  thaa 
Charleston  and  Savannoli. 

The  climate  has  been  divided  into  four  sections,  the  cohlost, 
middle,  hot,  and  temperate ;  to  which  I  shall  add  a  fifth,  the  warm, 
and  proceed  to  mark  the  different  lines  of  distinction. 

1st.  To  the  coldest  I  would  assign  that  portion  lying  north  east 
of  a  line  drawn  from  the  east  end  of  lake  Ontario,  to  the  east  end 
of  Long  Island  sound.  In  this  region  the  winters  commence  about 
the  first  of  December,  and  last  till  the  end  of  March;  and  are  very 
severe.  The  heat  of  summer  commences  in  June,  and  ends  in 
August.  Both  heat  and  cold  go  to  great  extremes ;  but  the  coun- 
try is  generally  healthy.  :     ir 

2d.  The  middle  may  be  included  between  the  aforesaid  line  and 
a  line  drawn  from  the  east  end  of  Lake  Erie  to  where  the  moun- 
tains cross  the  New  York  state  line — thence  along  the  top  of  the 
Allegany  ridge  to  the  latitude  of  Washington — thence  due  east 
through  Washington  to  the  Atlantic.  In  this  region  the  frost  is 
less  steady,  though  often  severe ;  and  the  rivers  are  frequently  ob- 
structed by  ice.  Towards  the  south  and  east,  the  winter  weather  is 
variable,  passing  frequently  from  cold  to  mild,  and  from  snow  to 
rain.  The  winters  commence  about  the  middle  of  December,  and 
end  in  February.  The  heat  of  summer  commences  in  May,  and 
ends  in  September,  i     '      '  ;.  i     •     -   '•-'  " 


I  mi 


J^. 


■*  I 


'•H 


m 

(If- 


d 


m 


666 


THAVELS    IN 


Sd.  The  hot  climate  may  be  defined  by  rnnning  a  line  nioiig  tlic 
ridge  at  the  head  of  tide  waters,  from  Washington  through  Ridi- 
inond  in  Virginia,  Raleigh  in  North  Carolina,  Columbia  in  Somh 
Carolina,  Milledgevillcin  Georgia;  and  extending  from  thence  to 
where  the  32d  degree  of  latitude  crosses  the  Mississippi  above 
Natches.  In  tliib  region,  between  that  line  and  the  Atlantic  and 
Gulf  of  Mexico,  frost  and  bnow  are  but  of  short  duration,  and  to 
the  south  they  ai-e  seldom  seen.  Tli?  winters  are  very  varial)li', 
but  generally  pleasant  and  healthy.  The  summers  commence  in 
April  and  end  in  November;  and  the  heat  is  often  very  oppressive. 

ith.  The  warm  region  extends  from  tlie  last  mentioned  line  to 
the  foot  of  the  mountains,  and  winding  round  their  southern  ex 
treniity  in  Georgia,  latitude  St"  30',  the  line  may  thence  be  pro- 
tracted due  west  to  the  Mississippi.  In  this  region  the  weather  i« 
more  settled,  and  though  the  summers  have  neorly  the  same  dura- 
tion as  in  the  hot  region,  the  heat  is  more  moderate. 

5t'.i.  The  temperate  region  includes  all  the  space  beyond  thesr 
lines  as  far  west  as  the  latitude  of  17",  and  north  to  lat.  43°  ;  be- 
yond which  my  researches  did  not  extend.  The  summers  com- 
raence  in  April,  and  end  in  October.  The  winters  commence  in 
December,  and  end  in  February.  The  springs  and  falls  are  de- 
lightful, rnd  both  summci-s  and  winters  are  moderate. 

America  was  first  discovered  by  Christopher  Columbus,  on  llio 
12th  of  October,  1492. 

In  1499,  an  officer  sailed  on  a  voyage  of  discovery,  accompanied 
by  Amerigo  Vespucci,  a  Florentine,  and  a  man  of  science,  who, 
on  hi«  return  to  Europe,  published  the  first  description  of  the  new 
Mr<  ''Id,  in  consequence  of  which  he  received  an  honour,  eminently 
due  to  Columbus,  that  of  affixing  his  name  to  this  vast  continent. 

The  settlement  of  tho  United  States  took  plnce  as  follows ; 

by  Lord  DeJavvare 

by  the  Butch 


1610  Virginia 

161*    J  ^^^  ^°^^ 
"}  New  Jersey 

5623  New  Hampshire 

16^7    ^S^'^^'T    • 
?  Pennsylvania 

1628  Massachusetts 

1633  Maryland 

1635  Connecticut 

1635  Rhode  Island 

1699  South  Carolina 

1728  Nortli  Carolina 


r  It-  •>. 


by  a  small  English  colony 

by  the  Swedes  &  Finlanderti 

by  Joint  Endicott  &  Co. 
by  Lord  Baltimore 
fay  Mr.  Fenwick         ^.^ 
by  Roger  Williams  ,'.\- 
by  Governor  Sayie     '  ' 
from  South  Carolina 


on  llic 


era 


{ 


m 


f^fj 


i*  •'^. 


r'-   I:-. 


I 


■  "" 

Members  to 

. 

Congress. 

Climate. 

Produce. 

tance 

By        By 

^ 

■om 

Census  Census 

, 

. 

ington. 

1800     1810. 

V                   .*  ■      - 

:.52    ~ 

5 

6 

Coldest. 

Grain,  cattle,  &c. 

\ 

>81 

4 

6 

Do. 

Do.    do. 

1 
1 

•81 
;()3 

}" 

20 

Do. 
Do. 

Do.    do. 
Mo,    do. 

«! 

39 

2 

2 

Do. 

Do.    do. 

..V 

$70 

7 

7 

Do. 

Do.    do. 

too 

17 

27 

Do. 

Do.    do. 

If 

176 

6 

6 

Middle. 

Do.    do. 

.   '«- 

U2 

18 

23 

Do. 

Do.    do. 

14L 

I 

2 

Do. 

Do.    do. 

40 

9 

9 

Do. 

Do.  tobacco. 

-^  ■:* 

Do. 

■ 

12G 

22 

23 

Warm. 

Do.    do. 

295 

12 

13 

Do. 

Do.    do.  cotton. 

JAV 

8 

9 

Do. 

Cotton,  rice. 

702 

4 

6 

Do. 

Do.    do. 

'■.       389 

1 

6     Temperate. 

Grain,  cattle,  &c. 

.       560 

6 

10 

Do. 

Do.    do. 

54-7 

3 

6 

Do. 

Cotton,  grain,  &c. 

.4.62 

1     Hottest. 

Do.  sugar,  rice. 

v 

247 

Do. 

Do.  rice,  grain. 

'          J 

743 

Temperate. 

Grain,  cattle,  &c. 

f 

903 

Do. 

Do.    do. 

* .' 

818 

Do. 

Grain,  cattle. 

-  * 

975 

Do. 

Grain,  cotton,  rice. 

142       182 

1 

^  i    I  i . » 


To  jace~J*age  567- 


1635 

1695  Ehode  rsIan(P 
1699  South  Carolina 
1728  Nortli  Carolina 


in 


'  tf  — — -       A.     ^''••T***^^^ 


by  Roger  WiJIiains 
by  Governor  Sayle 
trora  South  Carolina 


I-,  -fil'     Vii 


.^■^   « 


A''N>^ 


>  I- 


^      J, 


.  |i*: 


''  < 


r  i' 


« iiSi 


STATISTICAL  TA 


OF    THE 


UNITED  STATI 


L 


Extent. 

Ar^a. 

] 

Populatiun. 

u 

■J)  ••Z 

Chief  Towns. 

STATES. 

c  - 

o.t; 

Greatest 
Length. 

Greatest 
Breadth. 

Miles. 

Acres. 

1790. 

1800. 

1810. 

Inhabit! 
squan 

Acres  t 
Inhab 

Name. 

1 
Population. 

New  Hampshire 

182 

92 

9491 

' 60742+0 

14T&85 

1838.58 

214460 

23 

2.S 

Portsmouth 

6934 

Vermont 

166 

93 

10237 

6551680 

85539 

154465 

217895 

21 

30 

Springfield 

2757 

Massachussetts     7 
District  of  Maine  J 

190 

100 

8765 

5609600 

378787 

422845 

472040 

54 

12 

Boston 

33250 

•250 

192 

34000 

21760000 

96540 

151719 

228705 

7 

95 

Portland 

7169 

Rhode  Island 

45 

43 

1.548 

990720 

6S825 

69122 

76931 

i^n 

13 

Providence 

10071 

Connecticut 

83 

72 

4400 

2816000 

237946 

251002 

261942 

60 

10 

Newhaven 

5772 

New  York 

34.0 

317 

52125 

33360000 

340120 

586203 

959049 

18 

34 

New  York 

96373 

New  Jersey 

14.5 

60 

7920 

5068800 

184139 

211149 

245562 

31 

21 

Trenton    ^ 

3002     ' 

Pennsylvania 

320 

162 

49390 

31609600 

434373 

602365 

810091 

16 

39 

Philadelplila 

111210 

Delaware 

100 

37 

2200 

1408000 

59094 

64273 

72674 

33 

19 

Wihningtoo 

4416 

Maryland 

212 

123 

14000 

8y<.'0000 

319728 

349692 

380546 

27 

21 

Baltimore 

35583 

District  of  Columbia 

10 

10 

100 

64000 

24023 

24€- 

Washington 

8208 

Virginia 

442 

235 

70500 

45120000 

747610 

886149 

974622 

14 

46 

C7 

Richmond 

9735 

North  Carolina 

472 

188 

50500 

32320000 

393751 

478103 

555500 

11 

58|Newbern 

2500 

South  Carolina 

236 

210 

33880 

21683200 

249073 

345591 

415115 

12 

52  Charleston 

24711 

Georgia 

30.5 

259 

60000 

3S400000 

82548 

162684 

252433 

4 

l52|Savannah 

.5215 

Ohio 

228 

227 

43860 

28070400 

^5365 

230760 

5 

121  Cincinnati 

2540 

Kentucky 

328 

183 

40110 

25670400 

73677 

220960 

406511 

10 

68Lexington 

^           •    1 

4326 

I'ennessee 

420 

104 

43200 

27648000 

35691 

105602 

261727 

6 

106Knoxville 

1000 

|Louisiana 
Mississippi  Territory 

300 

241 

41000 

26240000 

76556 

2 

356  New  Orleans 

17242 

390 

278 

88680 

56755200 

«850 

40352 

1406Natches 

1511 

'Indiana  Territory 

284 

155 

39C00 

24960000 

5641 

24520 

1019  Vincennes 

670 

Illinois  Territory 

347 

206 

52000 

33280000 

12282 

2718Ka8kaskia 

622 

Michigan  Territory 

256 

154 

34820 

22284800 

3206 

4762 

4680 

Detroit 

1650 

Louisiana  Territory 

1494 

886 

985250 

630560000 

20845 

30250 

St.  Louis 

1500 

North- West  Territory 

486 

417 

1068S0 

68371200 

3"         ' 

A  t/\/V/ 

1883806 

1205635840 

3929326 

5308844!  7239903 

]l'J^- 


.«.  J—-  ■•.•■ 


ICAL  TABLE 


/    " 


)F    THE 


D  STATES. 


Chief  Towns. 

Seats  of  Government. 

Members  to 

Congress. 

Climate?. 

Prntliipp 

! 

Distance 

By        By 

^./ AAlAIClvW* 

JL   A  V/IAUWV. 

Name. 

Population. 

Name. 

Latitude. 

Longitude. 
5°21'E 

from 
Washington. 

Census  Census 
1800     1810. 

. 

• 

rtsmouth 

6934 

Concord 

4S°14'N 

552 

5           6 

Coldest. 

Grain,  cattle,  &c. 

ringfield 

2757 

MontpeJier 

44  14 

4  24 

581 

4 

6 

Do. 

Do.     do. 

ston 

33250 

Boston 

42  23 

5  56 

481 

}" 

20 

Do. 

Do.    do. 

irthind 

7169 

Portland 

43  36 

6  42 

603 

Do. 

Do.    do. 

evidence 

10071 

Providence 

41  52 

5  27 

439 

2 

2 

Do. 

Do.     do. 

ewhaven 

5772 

Hartford 

41  45 

4  11 

370 

7 

7 

Do. 

Do.    do. 

Bw  York 

96373 

Albany 

42  38 

3  12 

400 

17 

■27 

Do. 

Do.     do. 

•enton     ' 

3002 

Trenton 

40  14 

2  17 

176 

6 

6 

Middle. 

Do.     do. 

liladelplila 

111210 

Harrisburg 

40  16 

15 

142 

18 

23 

Do. 

Do.    do. 

'ihnington 

U16 

Dover 

39    8 

1  33 

141 

1 

2 

Do. 

Do.    do. 

jlliraore 

35583 

Annapolis 

38  58 

ti5 

40 

9 

9 

Do. 

Do.  tobacco. 

^ashingtoJl 

8208 

Washington 

38  53 

Do. 

ichmond 

9735 

Richmond 

37  31 

33  W 

126 

22 

23 

Warm. 

Do.    do. 

ewbern 

2500 

Raleigh 

35  52 

1  39 

295 

12 

13 

Do. 

Do.     do.  cotton. 

harleston 

24.711 

Columbia 

33  58 

3  45 

511 

8 

9 

Do. 

Cotton,  rice. 

ivannah 

52\5 

Milledgeville 

32  58 

6  13 

702 

4 

6 

Do. 

Do.     do. 

incinnati 

2540. 

Zanesville 

39  57 

4  49 

389 

1 

6     Temperate 

Grain,  cattle,  &c. 

exingtoii 

4326 

Frankfort 

38  13 

7  38 

5LiO 

6 

10 

Do. 

Do.     do. 

noxville 

1000 

Knoxville 

35  53 

6  5S 

547 

3 

6 

Do. 

Cotton,  grain,  &c. 

ew  Orleans 

17242 

New  Orleans 

29  57 

12  53 

1462 

1     Hottest. 

Do.  sugar,  rice. 
Do.  rice,  grain. 

atches 

1511 

Natch  es 

31  35 

It  25 

1247 

!     Do. 

incennes 

670 

Vincenncs 

38  51 

10  18 

743 

Temperate. 

Grain,  cattle,  &c. 

askaskia 

622 

Kaskaskia 

37  59 

12  29 

903 

Do. 

'                       f 

Do.    do. 

etroit 

1650 

Detroit 

42  2t 

5  53 

818 

Do. 

Grain,  cattle. 

t.  Louig 

r  ■1  ' 

1500 

St.  Louis 

38  38 

12  53 

975 

Do. 

Grain,  cotton,  rice. 

1 

>  ^"  .„ 

142     1  182 

To  fact  Page  567- 


1728  Nortii  Carol 


una 


h  Roger  WiJIiams 
Jy  Governor  Sayle 
trora  South  Carolina 


r. 


CI 


^ 


■ 

1732  Geo 

I 

1764  Veri 

1 

1773  Ken 

1 

1774  Ten 

1 

1787  Ohi( 

J 

1803  Loui 
The  follow 

fl 

TREE  VVII 

ami  since  the 
1765  The 
1773  The 

NAMES 

• 
CO 

cc 

1771  The 

of  the 

177.')  Batt 

DISTRICTS 

o 

c 

1776  Decl 

and 

0) 

s 

1778  Arti( 

TERRITORIES. 

>> 

o 

"3 
c 
a 

1780  Surr 

O 

' 

1782  Trea 

B 

o 

t 

1787  The 

D 

1789  Gcoj 
1797  John 

District  of   Maine 

41273 

18463 

* 

Massachussetts 

68930 

34964 

i 

J  801  Thoi 

New  Hampshire 

34284 

17840 

1809  Juni< 

Vermont 

38082 

18340 

1812  Wai 

Rhode  Island 

10735 

555i 

TTM 

Connecticut 

37812 

20498 

t 

Lue  annex 

New  York 

165033 

73702 

1 

extent  of  the  < 

New  Jersey 

37814 

18911 

The  agricu 
lories  have  b< 

Pennsylvania 
Delaware 

138464 
0632 

62606 
4480 

f 

Maryland 

38613 

18489 

; 

The  progr« 

Virginia 

97777 

42919 

. 

cularly  in  a  r 
274 ;  I  may  1 

Ohio 

46623 

18119 

; 

Kentucky 

65134 

26804 

1 

North  Carolina 

C8036 

30321 

Mitchell,  of] 

East  Tennessee 

18392 

7618 

West  Tennessee 

26102 

9552 

Vprmnnt' 

South  Carolina 

30669 

17193 

the 

Massachu 

Georgia 

28002 

11951 

ales, 

Connccti« 

Territcy  of  Orleans 

5848 

2491 

3 

Pennsylv 

Mississippi 

42r 

1637 

Louisiana 

3438 

1345 

Indiana 

4923 

1922 

There  appe 
from   the 
sheep  ar 

Illinois 

2266 

945 

Michigan 

80C 

351 

the 

(inc. 

District  of  Columbia 

2479 

1158 

ies, 

Toe 

^0 

5 

nm 

litem. 

I03527S 

468183 

ceJ' 

uiic  i>jl 

VNITIO    STATRS 


567 


1732  Georgia 
1764  Vermont 

1773  Kentucky 

1774  Tennessee 
1787  Ohio 
18)3  Louisiana 


bv  Oenera)  Oglethor})e. 

frohi  "^pw  England 

by  Dili!!**!  l)Oonc 

Iron.  Nf  (ih  Carolina,  &e. 

by  the  V  '}•'  land  other  conipanies 

ceckul  b)   :  'ance. 


1 

.ales, 

3 

the 

(';r.ii 

ies, 

Tor 

0 

nyj 

Tiie  following  arc  some  of  the  most  remarkable  events  before 
anil  since  the  revolution. 

1 765  The  stamp   act  passed 

]  773  The  tea  destroyed  at  Boston 

1774  The  first  congress  held 

177.5  Battles  of  Lexington  and  Bunker's-hill 

1776  Declaration  of  Lidependence,  July  4th 

1778  Articles  of  confederation  agreed  on 

1780  Surrender  of  Lord  Comwallis,  October  1 9{2i 

1782  'I'reaty  of  peace,  November  30tU 

1 787  The  federal  constitution  adopted 

1789  George  Washington  elected  presidciU 

1797  John  Adams  elected  president 

1801  Thomas  Jefferson  elected  president 

1809  James  Madison  elected  president 

1812  War  declared  against  Britain,  June  18th. 

The  annexed  statistical  table  presents  a  summary  view  of  the 
extent  ot  the  country,  population,  chief  towns,  climate,  produce,  &c. 

The  agriculture  and  produce  of  the  several  states  and  terri- 
tories have  been  noticed. 

The  progress  of  manufactures  has  also  been  attended  to,  parti- 
cularly in  a  review  of  the  secretary  of  the  treasury's  report,  page 
'274 ;  1  may  here  add  a  brief  abstract  of  a  late  compilation  by  Di-. 
Mitchell,  of  New  York,  from  documents  in.the  treasury  department. 


SHEEP. 

Vermont 
Massachusetts 
Connecticut 
Pennsylvania 

450000 

299182 

400000 

14CU9I3 

^ 

2719100 

jere  appears  to  be  no  return 
from   the  other  states;    but 
sheep  arc  abundant  m  all  of 

them. 

SALTPETRE.         lb?. 

Virginia 

4S175 

Kentucky 

303137 

Massachusetts 

2560O 

375(512. 

&UGAR. 

lbs. 

Ohio 

3033806 

Kentucky 

2471647 

E.  Tennessee 

162240 

Vermont. 

1200000 

686769a 


■  m 


m 


ifj 


i' , 


*;* 


W' 


ce  i'tiii<:  5*'7l 


u 


CENSUS  OF  THE 


FOR 


FREE  WHITE  MALES, 

™1 

NAMTS 
of  the 

• 
CO 

« 

tc 

U 

«5 

1- 

to 

C3 

• 

to 

DISTRICTS 

o 

0* 

0) 

2 

0) 

"2 

o 

cc 

and 
TERIUTORIES. 

>> 

O 

c 
o 

s 
-c 
ci 

3 

3 

-a 
c 

n 
w 
>» 

O 

• 

V 

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c 

0 

O 

o 

O 

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t3 

C 

District  of   Maine 

41273 

18463 

20403 

22079 

13291 

39131 

1 

Massachussetts 

680.^0 

34964 

45018 

45854 

34976 

66881 

Q 

New  Hampshire 

34284 

17840 

18865 

20551 

1 4462 

32313 

1 

Vermont 

38082 

18340 

19678 

20781 

13053 

36621 

1 

Rhode  Island 

10735 

5554 

7250 

6765 

5439 

10555 

Connecticut 

37812 

20498 

23880 

23699 

2048  1 

35913 

1 

New  York 

165033 

73702 

85779 

94882 

53985 

■    157915 

6 

New  Jersey 

37814 

18914 

21231 

21394 

16004 

36062 

1 

Pennsjplvama 

138464 

62606 

74203 

74193 

52100 

131769 

6 

Delaware 

0632 

4480 

5150 

5866 

2878 

9041 

Maryland 

38613 

18439 

22688 

25255 

15165 

36137 

1 

Virginia 

97777 

42919 

51473 

52567 

35302 

90715 

4 

Ohio 

46623 

18119 

20189 

22761 

1U65 

44192 

1 

Kentucky 

65134 

26804 

29772 

2955S 

17542 

60776 

1 

North  Carolina 

68036 

30321 

34630 

34450 

21189 

65421 

3 

East  Tennessee 

18392 

7618 

8266 

7539 

4998 

17416 

West  Tennessee 

26102 

9552 

11220 

12418 

5658 

24394 

South  Carolina 

3!)  609 

17193 

20933 

20188 

1 1 304 

37497 

1 

Georgia 

28002 

11951 

14085 

14372 

7433 

26283 

1 

Territory  of  Orleans 

5848 

2491 

2963 

5130 

2508 

5384 

Mississippi 

4217 

1637 

2962 

316C 

1144 

4015 

Louisiana 

3438 

1343 

1568 

2069 

967 

3213 

Indiana 

4923 

1922 

'2284 

•2316 

1125 

4555 

Illinois 

226t 

945 

1274 

1339 

55D 

2019 

Michigan 
District  of  Columbia 

80C 
247r 

351 
1158 

583 
1520 

763 
2107 

340 
866 

640 
2538 

103527S 

468183 

547597 

572347 

364736 

OS  1426 

4^ 

S  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES, 


FOR  1810. 

-s, 

FREE  WHITE  FEMALES 

c 
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o 

< 

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13291 

39131 

17827 

21290 

21464 

12515 

969 

22S705 

■  700743 

i54 

3+976 

6688 1 

33191 

46366 

49229 

39894 

6737 

472040 

)51 

1 4462 

32313 

17259 

20792 

21940 

15204 

970 

214460 

81 

13053 

36621 

17341 

20983 

20792 

1 1 457 

750 

217895 

Q5 

5439 

10555 

5389 

7520 

7635 

6372 

3609 

108 

76931 

m 

2048-1 

35913 

18931 

24973 

26293 

22696 

6453 

310 

261942 

82 

53985 

■    157915 

68811 

85139 

85805 

46718 

25333 

15017 

959049 

94 

10004 

36062 

17787 

21194 

21359 

15109 

7843 

10851 

245562 

03 

52100 

131769 

60943 

75960 

70820 

45740 

22492 

795 

810091 

66 

2878 

9041 

4370 

5541 

5527 

2876 

13136 

4177 

72674 

55 

15165 

36137 

17833 

23875 

22908 

141S4 

33927 

11150? 

380546 

67 

35302 

90715 

42207 

54899 

51163 

32512 

30570 

392518 

974622 

61 

1U65 

44192 

16809 

19990 

19436 

!         8717 

1899 

230760 

5S 

17542 

60776 

25743 

29511 

25920 

13482 

1713 

80561 

40;i51l 

50 

21189 

65421 

30053 

37933 

33944 

'       20427 

10266 

163824 

555500 

39 

4998 

17416 

7216 

8559 

7318 

'         4129 

510 

9376 

101307 

L  nfi  iiot 

18 

5658 

24394 

9113 

11305 

10276 

'          4356 

807 

35159 

l6Oi60'i""""' 

18 

1 1 304 

37497 

16629 

20583 

18974 

'        10926 

4554 

196365 

41  ■)115|   Total  in  liie 

7'^ 

7435 

26283 

1 1 237 

13461 

12350 

6238 

1801 

105218 

252433,United  Stale?, 

7036563 

10 

^tOS 

5384 
4015 

2558 
154.  J 

2874 
2187 

3026 
1753 

1499 
675 

7585 
240 

•^tfifif 

76556 
40352 

f  \  t  ^  \i  *^  \^\^ 

K 

1144 

17088 

)9 

967 

3213 

1265 

1431 

1309 

'           562 

G07 

3011 

20845 

6 

1125 

4555 

1863 

2228 

1880 

794 

393 

237 

2452( 

59 

55t^ 

2019 

791 

1053 

894 

364 

013 

168 

122a  2 

(3 

340 

640 

332 

368 

311 

130 

I2r 

24 

476'. 

'  Total  in  ibe     •. 

>7 

866 

2538 

1192 

16.?  3 

1734 

832 

1 

254'J 

5,-395 

24023 

{   Ttiriloi-ies,      T 
203140        72 

7 

364736 

981426 

448324 

56 166S 

541.156 

338376 

1S644C 

i|  1191364 

7230903 

' 

- 

7'vjace  yVi'c 

56S 


UNITED   STATES. 


COMBS.        value 
Connecticut       dol.  70000 


Gun-powder    mills,    207 — lb». 

1450000 
Furnaces,  forges,  &.  530 
Paper-mills,  190 
Cotton  niilU,  1st  August,  1810, 

330— spindles,  100000 
Cotton  yarn,  500000  lbs. 
Looms,  330(X)0 
Yards  of  cloth,  7500000 
Fulling  mills,  1630 
Carding  machines,  1825* 


587018 

The  foreign  commerce  of  the  United  States  has  suffered  severe- 
\y  by  the  restrictions  of  foreign  pov/ers,  and  it  will  now  be  materi- 
ally affected,  no  doubt,  by  the  present  war;  but  such  is  the  profu- 
sion of  provisions  and  raw  materials  in  the  United  States,  which 
some  of  the  belligerent  powers  cnvmot  do  very  well  without,  that 
there  must  be  a  considerable  export  trade  under  any  circumstances. 

In  1800  the  exports  amounted  to  dol.  70971780 

In  1805  do.  domestic  produce  42387002 
Foreign        do.     53179019 


Massachusetts 
Pennsylvania 

8062 1 
6310 

156964 

COPPERAS. 

West  Tennessee 
Vermont 

lbs. 

56000 

8000 

64000 

STRAW    BONNETS. 

Massachusetts        559918  - 
Connecticut             27100 

In  1810  domestic  do.      42S66675 

Foreign  do.      24391295 


95566021 


6d757970 


And  the  following  ta'i'  2  exhibits  the  last  return  at  the  treasury-office. 
UNITED  STATES  EXPORTS. 

A  summary  of  the  value  of  exports  from  each  state. 


N.  Hampshire 

DOMESTIC 

315054 

FOREIOK 

53809 

TOTAL 

368863 

Vermont 

538306 

32798 

571104 

Massachusetts 

60426^5 

5192820 

11235465 

Rhode  Island 

944868 

626556 

1571424 

Connecticut 

994216 

38138 

1032354 

New  York 

8747700 

3518515 

12266215 

'f^rr^    Carried  over  17582789  9462636  27045425 

*  It  will  be  readily  perceived  that  this  is  only  a  partial  account.  It  is  to  be  regretted 
that  a  more  general  return  is  not  made  when  the  census  is  taken.  Materials  for  a  very 
valuable  set  of  statistical  tables  might  be  collected  every  10  years,  along  with  the  names 
of  the  inhabitants.  Indeed  it  would  he  an  easy  matter  to  procure  materials  for  a  na- 
tional geography,  which  might  be  published  every  10  years,  under  the  auspices  of  the 
United  States.  The  profits  on  the  sale  of  such  a  work  would  do  much  more  than  de- 
fray the  expense  of  a  national  geographical  establishment  It  is  also  to  be  regretted,  I 
think,  that  the  returns  from  a  number  of  the  districts  arc  defective,  in  so  far  as  they  da 
not  state  the  population  in  towns  and  cities.  The  inhabitants  are  included  in  the  gene- 
ral return  for  the  respective  counties ;  but  were  the  particular  enumeration  in  each  tour. 
and  city  kept  separate,  it  would  be  more  satisfactory. 


Treasury  D 


UNITED    »T.»TFJ8. 


b69 


Brought  forward 

17582789 

9462636 

270+     .., 

Now  Jersey 

lb71 

-71 

Pennsylvania 

5G944.47 

3865670 

95«>  117 

Delaware 

7(iM5 

1I6S7 

H>yj.'J2 

Maryland 

455:ir>82 

2280405 

6833987 

♦I)  Columbia 

20fJOJ3l 

2920 

20()32«I 

Virginia 

4798612 

2:^695 

4822307 

N.  Carolina 

79:'>97.> 

4001 

79797f> 

S-  Carolina 

4G5098t 

210295 

4861279 

Georgia 

25^722.5 

1 1641 

2568866 

fXcr.  U.  S, 

2323282 

1 19840 

2673122 

Total  dol.  4  j29'1.04fi 

16022790 

61316S33 

*Genrgctov.'n 

61966 

1810 

63776 

Alexandria 

1998^64  , 

1110 

1 99947 i 

Total  dol 

.  2060530 

2920 
1632 

20632J0 

f  Michigan  Ter. 

19997  . 

21629 

Mississippi  do. 

1441 

1441 

New  Orleans 

2501842 

148208 

2650050 

Total  dol.  2523280  149840  2673120 

Tkeasury  Departmeni'.    Registek's  OpFieE,  Jan.  20,  1812. 

JOSEPH  NOURSE,  Register. 

By  an  average  of  1802,  3,  and  4,  the  imports  were: 

from  Britain  and  colonies  dol.  35968890 

Holland,  France,  Spain,  Italy,  &c,  ^547  U 10 

Northern  powers,  Prussia,  Germany,  &c.       7< '93330 
Portugal,  &c.  1106670 

China,  and  other  native  powers  in  Asia,         486S890 


All  other  countries^ 


Of  these  were  re-exported, 
INIanufactured  goods,  ,. 
Coffee, 

Sugar.  ..'•.- 

Other  articles,  i>  -    J .*« 


835560 


dol.  75334450 


9778000 
7533000 
5777000 
5355000 


28444300 


Leaving  for  the  United  States,  dol.  46890150 

Of  which  about  30000000  dollars  may  be  reckoned  for  clothing. 
The  imports  from  Britain  were  as  above 
The  exports  to  Britain  were 


Balance  in  favour  of  Britain, 

The  exports  to  other  European  powers  were 
The  imports  from  these  powers  were 

Balance  against  these  powers, 


'  25968890 
23100000 

dol.  12868890 

45333340 
33662230 


dol.  11671110 


■^ 


;  i  '. 


1:1 


i;' 


570 


UNITED   ITATIii. 


In  180),  <y,  and  7,  the  cxpurtH  to  and  importi  from  America,  in  Rri- 
tain,  ktuoil  m  follows : 

K*port<.  Import!. 

1805  rf.U4-i^Of>3  iC.4076803 

18()6  I '2865/551  43607M 

•  1807  12097912  6531410 


36409.5  86 


l+SJfiSgriG 


Balance  In  favour  of  Britain  in  these  three  years,     iff.21i40G3o. 
In  icileral  cuncncy,  952(i68()0  dollars. 

The  follpwing  extract  from  IJloJgct's  slatisticnl  table*  of  1809^ 
shows  the  progress  of  society,  and  national  wealth. 
UnitcdStates' territory  1280000000  Roadiandcanals.valuedol.l  1500000 


luiprovt'd  lands 

Dwelling  houses 

Colleges 

Academics 

Horses 

Cattle 


4()9.'>(XKK)  Hridges  do.       5000000 

1375000  Shipjiing  tons  1250000 

25  Metallic  medium        dol.  20500000 

74  Hanks,  92  ca{>it«l  51500000 

1400000  Bunk-notes  in  circulation  185000(K) 

3660000  Insuranco  companies' 

capital  18600000 

NATIONAL  VUNDS. 

Lots  in  Washington  dol.     1500000 

Western  public  lands  250000000 

Lousiana  lands  400000000 


National  debt 
Sinking  fund 


dol.  651500000 
03119694 
27597968 

65521726 

--_  doL 


585978274 

The  land  in  this  statement  is  valued  ^t  1  dollar  per  acre. 
The  total  value  of  the  United  States  Is  estimated  at  2510,000,000 
dollars. 

The  federal  government  have  attended  to  objects  of  national  im- 
provement with  laudable  ct^re ;  numerous  public  works  have  been 
promoted  within  these  lost  10  years:  the  arrangements  made  in  the 
state  of  Ohio  to  promote  education  are  a  proof  of  their  attention  to 
that  subject.  They  are  precluded  by  the  constitution  from  running 
lines  of  roads  or  canals  through  the  union)  without  consent  of  the 
individual  states ;  but  tliis  important  subject  Uas  met  with  due  atten- 
tion, and  an  elegant  plan  was  devised  for  improving  the  country  by 
these  means,  which,  but  for  the  subsequent  difficulties  in  the  foreign 
relations,  would  probably  have  been  by  this  time  in  practical  ope- 
ration. As  it  is  probable  that  this  important  subject  will  be  resum- 
ed at  a  future  ^ncriodi  I  shall  here  give  an  outline  of  the  various 
-workscontemplated  in  the  secretary  of  the  treasury's  luminous  reporti 


UNITED  STATES.  571 

I  limy  first  notice  that  the  United  States  have  already,  with  the 
absent  of  the  statck,  agreed  to  mnko,  nt  their  M>ic  cxpenitc,  u  rond 
from  Cumberland,  on  the  Potomac,  to  Brownsville,  on  the  Moiiou- 
gahcia,  which  is  the  only  work  of  the  kind  they  huvu  luidertnken. 

The  ftfllowini^  tables  will  exhibit  a  view  of  the  diirervnt  cutuili 
and  roads  contemplated  in  the  re|)ort. 

I.     Line  OF  canals  alonu  the  Atlantic  coast. 


Canali. 

Direction. 

II 

'2(i 
'2S 

2'2 
'2'2 

US 

Lx pence 
Doll>ir«. 

Maiaachuiieiia 
New  Jersey 
Delaware  and 

Chesapeak 
Chesapeak  ami 

Albemarle 

WcyniuuUi  to  Tauniun 
Brunswick  to  Tie nioii 

Chriaiiana  to  £ik 

Elizabeth  river  to  Patqaotaitk 

2(i() 
100 

40 

5VS 

I'2.)Oo«}() 
8U0()i)0 

75'K)(K) 
25000(' 

:i050ooc) 

These  canals  are  calculated  for  sea  vessels,  and,  should  they 
be  completed,  will  perfect  an  internal  navigation  from  Boston  to 
St.  Mary's,  in  Georgia,  a  distance,  in  a  direct  line,  of  more  tliaii 
1000  miles. 

II.    iMPROVEMtlft  OP   INLAWD   NAVIGATION. 

Improvement  of  the  navigation  of  the  Susquehannah, 
Potomac,  James,  and  Santee  rivers,  from  the  tide-wa- 
ters to  the  highest  practical  point,  to  be  effected  princi- 
pally by  canals  round  the  falls,  where  practicable,  and 
by  locks  when  necessary  1,500,000 

Canal  at  the  falls  of  Ohio,  two  miles  long,  and  from 
I'j  to  27  feet  deep,  20  feet  wide  in  bottom,  and  68  at 
top,  and  having  three  locks  300,000 

Improvement  of  the  navigation  of  the  North  river, 
and  a  canal  from  thence  to  lake  Champlain^  the  dis- 
tance from  Waterford  to  Skeensborough  being  50  miles     800,000 

Improvement  of  the  navigation  from  Albany,  through 
the  Mohawk  and  Oswego  rivers,  to  lake  Ontario  2,200,000 

Canal  for  sloop  navigation  round  the  falls  of  Niagara  1,000,000 


dot.  5,800,000 


I' 


f 


1  » ' ' 


572 


UNITED   STATES. 


III.  Turnpike  iioads. 

A  great  road  cxtcmling  from  Maine  to  Georgia,  in 
tlie  general  dircctiou  oi'  the  sea-coast  and  main  post- 
load,  and  passing  though  all  the  principal  sea-ports,  in 
length  KJOO  miles,  estimated  at  3000  dollars  per  mile     ijSOOjOOO 

Four  great  artificial  roads  from  the  four  great  western 
rivers,  the  Allegany,  Monongahela,  Kanhaway,  anil 
'lenncssce,  to  the  nearest  corresponding  Atlantic  ri- 
vers, the  Susquchaimah  or  Juniata,  the  Potomac,  James 
river,  and  either  the  Sanlee  or  Savannah ;  to  miite  on 
each  river  points  from  which  there  is  a  navigation 
downward,  estimated  at  100  miles  each,  being  100  miles, 
at  7000  dollars  per  mile  2,800,000 

A  post-road  from  the  Tuscarawa  branch  of  the  Mus- 
kingum to  Detroit,  distance  about  200  miles;     ' 

Another  from  Cincinnatti  to  St.  Louis,  by  Vinccn- 
nes,  distance  SOO  miles; 

And  another  from  Nashville,  in  Tennessee,  at  Athens, 
in  Georgia,  to  Natche.-;,  distance  500  miles ; 
;    In  all  1000  miles,  at  200  dollCTs  per  mile  200,000 


dol.  7,800,000 


Jn  pointing  out  tliese  lines  of.  communication,  the 
great  geographical  features  of  the  country  were  solely 
altendetl  to  ;  and,  to  equalize  the  advantages  to  all  the 
states,  a  fund  was  contemplated  for  local  improvements, 
amounting  to  3,400,000 

Which,    added  to    the  sum    esthnated    for  general 


iinprovemcnls, 

would  make  an  na-vrcgate  o( 


i-)tt' 


16,600,000 


dol.  20,000,000 


It  was  suggested  that  an  annual  appropriation  of  two  millions 
of  doUura,  would  accomplish  all  these  great  objects  in  10  years. 

In  estimating  the  resources  of  the  nation,  with  a  view  to  this 
appropriation,  it  was  stated,  that  by  the  estimate  of  a  peace  ci- 


If  Ui' 

■  I ' 


UNITED    STATES.  573 

tablislimcnt,  computed  for  the  years  1809-1815,  the  annual  reve- 
nue would  be  (hi.  14,000,000 

And  the  expcnditnro  as   follows : 

Annual  fund  for  the  discharge  of  the  national 

debt  4,600,000 

Expences  of  government  3,500,000 

Contingencies  400,000 

8,500,000 


'■m 


Leaving  a  surplus  of  dol.  Sj.'JOOjOOO 

It  was  calculated  that  three  millions  applied  annually,  during 
10  years,  would  arm  every  man  in  the  United  States;  fill  the  pub- 
lic arsenals  and  magazines ;  erect  every  battery  atul  fortification 
which  could  be  manned  ;  and  even,  if  thought  eligible,  build  a 
navy ;  leaving  a  surplus  of  2,.';00,00()  dollars  per  nnnunn 

Amongst  the  resources  of  the  nation,  exclusively  of  the  land^ 
in  Louisiana,  the  general  government  possesses  1(;0  millions  of 
acres  of  land,  north-west  of  the  Ohio,  and  near  50  millions  south 
of  the  state  of  Tennessee;  and  it  was  believed  that  it  would  an- 
swer a  good  p!'rpose,  to  apply  the  proceeds  exclusively  to  promote 
the  improvement  of  the  country;  the  more,  because  the  contem- 
plated two  millions  could  only  be  appropriated  in  time  of  peace, 
whereas  this  could  be  applied  permanently,  until  the  most  im- 
portant impi'ovemcnts  were  effected.  It  was  added,  "  the  fund 
creaied  by  these  improvements  would  afterward  become  a  per- 
petual fund  for  still  further  improvements." 

The  report  remarks,  that  "the  general  utility  of  artificial  roads 
nnd  canals,  is  at  this  time  so  universally  admitted,  as  hardly  to 
require  any  additional  proofs.  It  is  sufficiently  evident,  that,  when- 
ever the  annual  expence  of  transportation  on  a  certain  route,  in 
its  natural  state,  exceeds  the  interest  on  the  capital  cmployetl  in 
improving  the  communication,  and  the  annual  expence  of  trans- 
portation by  the  improved  route,  the  difference  is  an  adtlitional 
income  to  the  nation.  Nor  does,  in  that  case,  the  general  result 
vary,  although  the  tolls  may  not  have  been  fixed  at  a  rate  suf- 
ficient to  pay  the  undertakers  the  niterest  of  the  capital  laid  out. 
They,  indeed,  when  that  happens,  lose;  but  the  community  is 
benefitted  by  the  undertaking."  //  JblloxvSy  that  all  public  v-vrkSf 
ixihich  are  deemed  essential,  and  iickich  yet  do  not  hold  out  a  jn-os^ 
pect  of  remuneration  to  individuals,  should  be  executed  exclusively 
Ini  the  })ublic,  and  for  jmhlic  account. 


! '  fit 


-»    .- 


i'.'   \    ! 


i: 


■     -il- 


:  1 


574 


UNlTttD   STATES. 


The  report  states,  <<  that  the  price  of  labour  is  not  considered 
fiK  a  formidable  obstacle,  because,  whatever  it  may  be,  it  equally 
alTccts  the  expcncc  of  transportation,  which  is  saved  by  the  im- 
provement." The  importance  of  this  remark  is  self-evident,  and 
it  may  be  strengthened  by  the  application  of  the  national  force, 
to  promote  national  objects,  by  the  employment  of  the  army  in 
time  of  peace.  Every  nation  must  have  a  hired  army,  to  a  cer- 
tain extent,  and,  by  a  judicious  application  of  their  labour,  a  great 
many  national  objects  might  be  promoted ;  the  condition  of  the 
men  might  be  improved  by  an  allowance  of  additional  pay  for 
their  labour,  while  the  employment  itself  is  favourable  to  virtu- 
ous habits,  and  is  perhaps  the  best  means  of  uniting  the  duties  of 
the  citizen  with  the  soldier.  -The  federal  revenue  consists  mostly 
of  a  tax  on  imports  and  tonnage,  with  the  produce  of  the  sale  of 
the  new  lands.  It  has  been  already  stated,  that  the  revenue 
for  a  peace  establishment,  from  1809  to  1815,  was  calculated 
at  dol,  14,000,000 

While  the  expences  of  government,  includ- 
ing contingencies,  amounted  only  to        3,900,000 
And  the  annual   fund  for  paying  off  the 

national  debt  4,600,000 

8,500,000 


Leaving  a  surplus  for  national  improvements,  of     doL  5,500,000 

But,  in  consequence  of  the  interruption  of  the  foreign  com- 
merce of  the  United  States  by  the  belligerent  powers  of  Europe, 
the  revenue  has  been  materially  affected ;  while  preparations  for 
u  state  of  hostility  have  increased  the  expenditure,  and  exhausted 
the  treasury ;  so  that  all  the  contemplated  improvements  have, 
for  the  present,  been  laid  aside ;  and  ho&tilies  having  actually 
taken  place  between  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain,  the 
war  will,  in  all  probability,  be  productive  of  events  that  will 
call  for  an  entirely  new  system  of  policy,  as  to  the  national  reve- 
nue. In  the  mean  time,  a  temporary  expedient  has  been  resorted 
to  by  raising  a  new  loan  of  1 1,000,000  dollars;  and  100  per  cent, 
has  been  added  to  the  duties  on  tonnage  and  imports.*' 

*  It  Las  always  appeared  to  me,  that  «  very  simple  eipedient  might  be  resatud 
ib,  wliich  would  mtet  any  deficiency  in  the  aational  revenue,  and  supersede  the  ne- 
cessity of  loans  and  exrhe,  while  it  would  render  the  country^  so  far  as  the  fiaances 
are  concerned,  completely  independent  of  foreign  trade. 


iiiii 


UNITED    STATFS. 


675 


Tlie  federal  currency  is  very  simple.  The  dollar  is  established  as 
the  money  unit,  proceeding  downwards,  by  the  decimal  ratio  pf  tens. 

First  The  duties  on  tonnage  and  imports  should  be  oonlinucd  ;  and  to  give  facility 
to  the  progress  of  the  rising  manufacture^  they  should  be  lowered  or  raised,  according 
to  existing  circumstances.  I  doubt  the  policy,  however,  wf  ntaking  them,  in  any  case, 
exceed  20  per  cent.,  as  that  holds  out  too  great  temptation  to  smugglers.  These  duties 
even  in  time  of  war,  including  that  on  salt,  I  would  estimate  at  4,000.000  dollars. 

Second.     A  national  bank  might  be  instituted  oh  the  following  principles : 

Isl:  The  capital  stock  of  tlie  bank  may  be  fixed  at  30,0(X),000  dutiars,  of  which  thf 
United  Sutes  migat  furnish  20,000,000  dollars,  the  basis  being  land,  and  tlie  individual 
states  the  other  10,000,000  dollars. 

ad.  The  bank  to  be  established  at  Washington,  and  the  lUrcctorj  and  other  office- 
bearers  to  be  i^>p(rfnted  by  congress. 

3d.  A  branch  to  be  established  in  every  state,  with  consent  of  the  rcipcctive  state  le- 
gislatures, who  may  appoint  one-half  of  the  office-bearers,  and  the  quota  of  the  stock, 
for  that  state,  to  be  applied  exclusively  to  the  branch  estabtislied  in  it. 

4th.  To  preserve  a  uniformity  of  circulating  medium,  the  wkolts  of  the  notes  to  be 
issued  at  the  seat  of  government,  and  to  be  exchanged  at  all  the  brunches. 

5th.  The  bank  and  its  branches  to  be  so  .  gamzcd  as  to  facilitate  a  general  cxchan<re 
throughout  the  United  States :  e.  g.  a  person  at  New  Orleans  wishes  to  remit  to  Fbi- 
ladclphia ;  he  could  pay  the  amount  into  tlie  one  branch  bank,  and  get  a  draft  on  the 
other :  and  so  on  throughout  the  union. 

As  the  profits  of  a  well  organized  bank  arc  very  great,  I  would  be  inclined  to  valuf  a 
revenue  resulting  from  a  national  bank  at  2,000,000  dollars. 

Third.  The  deficiency  might  be  contributed  by  the  several  states,  according  to  the 
extent  of  the  population.  For  example,  suppose  the  sum  wanted  be  6,G88,230,  it  would 
be  apr  Ktipned  among  the  several  states  and  territories,  nearly  as  follows : 


:■  1    : 


New  Hampshire,       dol. 

21*070 

Vermont 

217595 

Massachusetts 

6977^3 

Rhode  Island 

75445 

Connecticut 

25P2a6 

New  York 

942909 

New  .lersey 

238084 

Pennsylvaiiia 

800987 

Delaware 

65848 

Maryland 

322374 

District  of  Colurabia 

20845 

Virginia 

805426 

North  CaroUna 

483864 

South  Carolina 

Georgia 

Ohio 

Kentucky 

Tennessee 

Louisiana 

Mississippi 

Indiana 

Illinois 

Michigan 

Louisiana 


334748 

209623 

230000 

373600 

243387 

58658 

33421 

2426S 

11970 

4704 

19100 

6688230 


There  may  be  some  objections  to  this  plan  that  I  am  not  aware  of;  but  if  tliey  are  not 
insuperable,  the  subject  well  deserves  legislative  consideration.  Tlie  public  exigencies 
must  be  provided  fur,  and  a  mode  by  which  the  taxes  can  be  raised  equally,  and  with 
the  least  pos.sibIe  trouble  and  expen!*c,  is  the  best.  I  know  of  none  that  would  combine 
these  advantages  so  completely  as  that  alluded  to.  In  a  period  of  peace  this  plan  would 
not  require  to  be  operated  upon ;  and  in  a  period  of  war  tbs  sum  would  never  probabi/ 


576  UNITED   STATES. 

to  dimes,  cents,  and  mills;  and  upwards  to  eagles  of  10  dollars  vji- 
liic,  which  is  the  largest  gold  coin.  In  money  transactions,  the  tonus 
dollars  and  cents  only  are  used,  and  these  terms  comprehend  all  the 
others,  except  the  lowest,  which  is  seldom  used  at  all.  For  example, 
86  eagles,  4  dollars,  5  dimes,  and  7  cents  are  expressed  thus: 
dol.  sei-.S?  ~  eight  hundred  and  sixiy-four  dollars  and  fifty  ^evcn 
cents. 

In  1792  a  law  was  passed  to  establish  a  mint,  and  the  following 
coins  were  struck.  Of  Gold ;  eagles,  half-eagles,  quarter-eagles. 
Of  Silver ;  dollars,  half-dollars,  quarter-dollars,  dimes,  half-dimes. 
Of  Copper ;  cents,  half-cents. 

The  gold  coins  consist  of  eleven  parts  of  pure  gold  and  one  of  al- 
loy ;  the  alloy  is  composed  of  silver  and  copper.  The  silver  coins 
consist  of  1485  parts  of  pure  silver,  and  179  of  copper. 

The  weight  and  value  of  the  several  coins,  and  the  proportion 
they  bear  to  British  sterling  money,  is  exhibited  in  the  following  table: 


! 


3 


Meial. 

Coin. 

Weight  in  grams. 

Value  III 

dollars 

dud  cents 

Value  in  British 
sterling. 

Pure. 

Standard. 

Gold 

Eagies 

2474- 

270 

dol.  10  00 

£.2     5     0 

Half  do 

123^ 

135 

5  00 

1     2     6 

Quarter 

6i-J 

61i 

2  50 

11     3 

Silver. 

Dollars 

37  l|: 

4I() 

I   00 

4     6 

Half  do. 

l8Df 

208 

50 

2     3 

._    ;   ■,       r 

Quarter 

y2H 

104 

25 

1      1^ 

.  '   .  •■  1-; 

Dimes 

37^ 

4If 

10 

5,^ 

Hair  do. 

l&T^ 

20f 

5 

2A 

Copper 

Cents 

Ids 

1 

rris 

Half  do. 

84 

I 

T 

I       2 

The  advantage  of  a  currency  arranged  decimally  over  any  other 
may  be  illustrated  by  some  examples. 


ADDITION. 

£,    s.    d  dollars. 

12  13  10^     =     56.41 
7  19    S:J     =     35.44 


SUBTRACflON. 

£. 

S. 

d. 

dollars. 

12 

13 

\oh 

=     56.41 

7 

19 

H 

=     85.44 

30  13    4^     =     91.85 


4  14    4f     =     20.97 


be  so  great  as  to  be  much  felt  by  any  of  the  states.     The  advantage  of  having  a  plan  to 
meet  any  contingencj,  always  in  reserve,  ig  self-evident. 

As  to  the  national  lands,  the  proceeds  should,   I  thiiiK,  in  terms  of  the  secretary  of  the 
treasury's  report  referred  to,  be  devoted  exclusively  to  promote  obj«cts  of  national  utility. 


UNITED   STATFS. 


577 


MULTIPLICATION  BY  15. 

£,    s.    d.  dollars. 

56.41 


12  13  10|     = 
90 


=  15 


DIVISION  BY  15.  F 

£.   s.   d.  dollars. 

12  13  10^  =15)50.41(3.76 

20  45 


243 
18 

3046 
4 

12186 
15 

60930 
12186 

4)182790 

12)45697 

20)3808 


1 


28205 
5641 

253                          114 
12                          105 

846.15 

3046                           91 
4                          90 

• 

15)12186(812                   1 
120  12(203 

£0  16  11 

18 
15 

36 
32 

4 


190    8     1^ 

It  would  be  of  great  importance  if  weights  and  measures  could 
also  be  ari'anged  decimally. 

In  such  an  extensive  country,  partaking  of  very  different  local 
circumstances,  the  manners  and  morals  of  the  community  must  ex- 
hibit a  great  variety.  Generally  speaking,  every  state  has  its  own 
peculiar  features :  and  the  subjects  alluded  to  have  been  noticed  in 
the  view  of  the  various  states  and  territories.  Education  and  liter- 
ature have  also  been  noticed  ;  and  I  may  here  remark,  in  general, 
that  there  are  few  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  United  States  who  can- 
not  read  and  write.  Knowledge  has  been  very  generally  diffused 
by  books  and  pamphlets,  and  more  newspapers  are  circulated  than 
in  any  other  country  in  the  world.* 

*  Isaiah  Thomas,  esq.  of  Worcester,  Massachusetts,  has  lately  pub- 
lished a  very  valuable  work,  entitled,  The  History  of  Printing  in  A. 
inerica,  from  which  I  have  extracted  the  following  table :  y 

J  ,  -  ■  No.  of  itnpres-  '  ••    -'''-}-j 

No.  of  aioni  of  each,  , 

Papers.    Published  averaged  at  '  Total  Amount. 

New  Hampshire,       12    weekly,  at  1000  624000 

"         "  9    twice  a  week,     1600    1497600 

23    weekly,  1150     1375400 


Massachusetts, 
Rhode  Island, 


1    twice  a  week,      800        83200 
a    weekly,  800      249600 


-2873000 


332S0O 


I  ?f' 


578 


UMTID   STATU. 


A  great  mtny  public  libraries  have  been  cfttablisheti ;  and  there 
are  numerous  institutions  for  the  encouragement  of  science  and 
literature. 


C'annecticut, 
Vermont, 
New  York, 


11  weekly,  1150 

14  weekly,  800 

7  daily,  600     1310400 

9  twice  a  week,  800      748800 

50  weekly,  800    2080000 


857800 
582400 


New  Jersey, 

8 

weekly, 

800 

S32800 

Pennsylvania, 

9 

daily. 

625 

1755000 

1 

three  times, 

800 

124800 

3 

twice  a  week. 

800 

249600 

k 

58 

weekly. 

800 

2412800 

..—jIi  M99rvi 

Delaware 

2 

twice  a  week. 

800 

166400 

Maryland 

5 

daily 

600 

936000 

5 

three  times. 

600 

468000 

, 

1 

twice  a  week, 

800 

83200 

10 

weekly, 

800 

416000 

..iQfM^nn 

District  of  Columbia,  1 

3 
1 
1 


Virginia, 


North  Carolina, 
South  Carolina, 


Georgia, 


1 

6 
16 

10 
S 

2 
5 

1 

2 

10 


Kentucky,  17 

Ohio,  14 

Tennessee  6 

Indiana  Territory,        I 
Missishipi  Territory,    4 
Territory  of  Orleans,  2 
I     ■      4 

,       :  2 

.2 


Louisiana, 


daily,  600 

three  times,  800 

twice  a  week,  800 

weekly,  800 

three  times,  800 

twice  a  week,  800 

weekly,  800 

weekly,  800 

daily,  500 

twice  a  week,  800 

weekly,  800 

three  times,  800 

twice  a  week,  800 

weekly,  800 

weekly,  700 

weekly,  650 

weekly,  550 ' 

weekly,  300 

weekly,  400 

daily,  450 

three  times,  500 

twice  a  week,  500 

weekly,  500 

300 


187200 

374400 

83200 

41600 

124800 
499200 
665600 


468000 
166400 
908000 


...^  686400 


.1289600 
416000 


842400 


124800 

166400   '"'"' 
416000 

707200 

•  618800 

^     473200 

'  ■  171600 

15600 

83200 

280800 

312000  ;,.,.;.. 
104000 
52000 


1    weekly. 


748800 
15600 


By  this  tab 
And  Mr,  Tho 
total  amauiit, 
lioni,  five  hui 
aiaount  to  22) 
pretsM  are  eoi 

I  had  the  p 
book  printed  i 
octaTo,  bound 
the  left  hand  ( 
the  head  of  ev 

I  was  showi 
tun  Newslettei 
by  authority." 
my  nativity,  ai 

"  Prom  the 

'*  Letters  fro 
Sessonable  Al« 
in  the  country, 
religion."  Th 
more  avowedly 
come  tliither  fr 
country;  andtl 
of  the  general  t 

The  sUte  of 
per  manufactur 
pears  that  the  n 


From  Dr.  M 
llie  paper  n 


359 


22222200 


%4. 


UNiriD  STATES.  579 

The  original  bond  of  union  among  the  states  was  for  mutual  pro- 
tection and  defence;  but  it  was  vague  and  undefined  until  the  9th 

By  this  table,  it  appears  that  the  number  of  newspapers  amounts  to  iQ,i'2'i,QO0 1 
and  Mr,  Thomas  says  it  may  be  riewcd  as  considerably  under  the  real  number.  Th« 
total  amount,  he  tin'nks,  may,  without  exaggeration,  bo  estimated  at  tw«nty-two  mil* 
lions,  five  hundred  thousand.  In  Britain  and  Ireland  the  newspaper  establishments 
auwurit  to  288  ;  and  the  whole  of  tiie  public  journals  issued  annually  fron  tb«  various 
presses  are  computed  at  twenty  millions  five  hundred  thousand. 

I  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  Mr.  Thomas  last  spring,  when  he  showed  me  the  first 
book  printed  in  America,  in  the  year  1 640.  It  is  a  psaim>book  of  3oO  pages  crown 
octavo,  bound  in  vellum,  and  is  attended  by  this  very  singular  circumstance,  that  on 
the  left  hand  page  throughout  the  book  the  word  Psalm  is  spellad  it  it  should  be ;  at 
the  head  of  every  right  hand  page  it  is  spelled  "  PMlme." 

I  was  shown  also  the  first  newspaper  printed  in  America.  It  is  entitled  "  The  Boa- 
tun  Newsletter,  from  Monday,  April  17th,  to  Monday,  April  24th,  1704,  published 
by  authority."  On  looking  into  it,  the  first  article  I  snw  had  reference  to  the  land  of 
my  nativity,  and  I  made  the  following  extract  from  it  in  "  my  pocket-book." 

"  From  the  London  Flying  Post,  from  December  2d  to  4th,  1705. 

"  Letters  from  Scotland  bring  us  tlic  copy  of  a  sheet  latoly  printed  there,  intitled,  a 
Se#son«ble  Alarm  for  Scotland,  in  a  letter  from  a  clergyman  in  the  city  to  his  friend 
in  the  country,  concerning  the  present  danger  of  the  kingdom,  and  oF  the  protestant 
religion."  The  letter  takes  notice  that  papists  swarm  in  the  nation,  that  they  traffic 
more  avowedly  than  formerly,  and  that  of  late  many  scores  of  priests  and  Jesuits  had 
come  tliither  from  France,  and  had  gone  to  the  hif;blands,  and  other  places  in  the 
country ;  and  the  ministers  of  the  north  had  given  long  lists  of  them  to  the  cornmittee 
of  the  general  assembly,  to  be  laid  before  the  privy  council,  &c. 

The  state  of  literature  in  a  country  may  be  partly  inferred  from  the  quantity  of  pa- 
per manufactured.  Mr.  Thomas  says,  "  from  the  information  I  have  collected,  it  ap- 
pears that  the  mills  for  manufacturing  paper  are  as  follows :— 


New  Hampshire 

7 

Virginia 

4 

Massachusetts 

38 

South  Carolina 

1 

Rhode  Ishmd 

4 

Kentucky 

« 

Connecticut 

17 

Tennessee 

4 

Vermont 

9 

Pennsylvania  about 

60 

New  York 

12 

In  all  the  otiier  stetes  and 

Delaware 

4 

territories 

16 

Maryland 

9 

_- 

mmm. 

Total 


185 


From  Dr.  Mitchell's  report,  the  numbers  appeared  to  be  190. 

The  paper  manufactured  annually  at  these  mills  is  esdoated  as  follows: 

tons. 
For  newspapers  500 

For  books  C30 

For  writing  650 

For  wrapping  800 


2580 


reams. 

valuer 

50,000 

dot.  150,000 

70,000 

245,000 

111,000 

333,000 

100,000 

83.000 

331,000 

dJ.  811,000 

*ni'' 


'  ( 


I! 


m 


580  UNITED   STATES. 

July,  1778,  when  "  Articles  of  Confederation  and  Perpetual  Union" 
were  agreed  upon  by  New  Flampshire,  Massachusetts,  Rhode  Is- 
liiiul,  Connecticut,  New  York,  New  Jersey,  Pennsylvania,  Delaware, 
Virginia,  Morth  Carolina,  South  Carolina,  and  Georgia.  On  the 
Ifit  March  1781,  Maryland  acceded  by  her  representatives  in  con- 
gress ;  and  the  articles  were  finally  ratified.  These  articles  conti- 
nued t©  regulate  the  proceedings  of  the  general  government  until  the 
year  1787,  when  a  new  constitution  was  adopted,  of  which  the  fol- 
lowing are  the  outlines. 

1st.  The  legislative  power  is  vested  in  a  congress  of  the  United 
States,  consisting  of  a  senate  and  house  of  representatives. 

The  raemhci's  of  the  house  of  representatives  are  chosen  every 
second  year  by  the  people  of  the  several  states;  and  the  electors  in 
each  state  must  have  the  qualifications  requisite  for  the  electors  of 
the  most  numerous  branch  of  the  state  legislature.  A  representa- 
tive must  be  25  years  of  age,  and  have  been  7  years  a  citizen  of  the 
United  States ;  and  be  an  inhabitant  of  that  state  for  which  he  shall 
be  chosen.  The  representatives  will  hereafter  be  chosen  in  the  se- 
veral states  in  the  proportion  of  one  for  every  35,000,  in  which  e- 
iiumevation  the  Indians  and  two-fifths  of  the  people  of  colour  are  not 
included. 

The  senate  is  composed  of  two  members  from  each  state,  chosen 
for  six  years  by  the  respective  state  legislatures ;  and  the  seats  of 
onc-tliird  arc  vacated  every  two  years,  A  senator  must  be  30  years 
of  age,  and  have  been  9  years  a  citizen  of  the  United  States,  and  at 
the  time  of  his  election  an  inhabitant  of  the  state  for  which  he  is 
ehosen.  The  vice-president  of  the  United  States  is  president  of  the 
senate ;  but  has  no  vote  unless  they  are  equally  divided. 

Congress  must  assemble  at  least  once  every  year.  Their  meet- 
ings shall  be  on  the  first  Monday  in  December,  unless  they  shall  by 
law  appoint  a  different  day. 

No  law  can  be  passed  without  the  concurrence  of  both  houses. 
When  that  is  obtained,  it  is  presented  to  the  president,  who,  if  he 
approves,  signs  it ;  if  not,  he  returns  it  with  his  objections,  for  the 
re-con!jideriitioH  of  congress,  and  it  cannot  in  that  case  become  a 
law  without  the  concurrence  of  two-thirds  of  the  members.  The 
prcoident  "'lUst  r  iurnit  within  10  days,  otherwise  it  becomes  a  law 
without  his  appi  ubaiion.  .        . 

1  !io  coogrct^s  have  power — 
T.  To  lay  and  collect  taxes,  duties,  imposts,  and  excises,  to  pay 


UNITED  STATRS. 


581 


the  debts,  and  provide  for  the  common  defence  and  general  welfare 
of  the  United  States ;  but  all  duties,  imposts  and  excises,  shall  be 
uniform  throughout  the  United  States. 

II.  To  borrow  money  on  the  credit  of  the  United  States.  ^ 

III.  To  regulate  commerce  with  foreign  nations,  and  among  the 
several  states,  and  with  the  Indian  tribes. 

IV.  To  establish  an  uniform  rule  of  naturalization,  and  uniform 
laws  on  the  subject  of  bankruptcies,  throughout  the  United  States. 

V^.  To  coin  money ;  to  regulate  the  value  thereof,  and  of  foreign 
coin ;  and  fix  the  standard  of  weights  and  measures. 

VI.  To  provide  for  the  punishment  of  counterfeiting  the  se- 
curities and  current  coin  of  the  United  States. 

VII.  To  establish  post-offices  and  post*roads. 

VIII.  To  promote  the  progress  of  science  and  useful  arts,  by 
securing  for  limited  times,  to  authors  and  inventors,  the  exclu- 
sive right  to  their  respective  writings  and  discoveries,        .   "  - 

IX.  To  constitute  tribunals  inferior  to  the  supreme  court. 

X.  To  define  and  punish  piracies  and  felonies  committed  on 
the  high  seas,  and  offences  against  the  law  of  nations. 

XI.  To  declare  war ;  grant  letters  of  marque  and  reprisal ;  and 
make  rules  concerning  captures  on  land  and  water. 

XII.  To  raise  and  support  armies.  But  no  appropriation  of 
money  for  that  use  shall  be  for  a  longer  term  than  two  years. 

XIII.  To  provide  and  maintain  a  navy.     ■■'■'■  t.^-- i       j? -^^  • ;     .' 

XIV.  To  make  rules  for  the  government  and  regulation  of 
the  land  and  naval  forces.  ■. *-.■..  i 

XV.  To  provide  for  calling  forth  the  militia  to  execute  the 
laws  of  the  union,  suppress  insurrections,  and  repel  invasions. 

XVI.  To  provide  for  organizing,  arming,  and  disciplining  the 
militia,  and  for  governing  such  part  of  them  as  may  be  employed 
in  the  service  of  the  United  States;  reserving  to  the  states  re- 
spectively the  appointment  of  the  officers,  and  the  authority  of 
training  the  militia  according  to  the  discipline  prescribed  by  con- 


(^res5. 


•'^'.j 


r\':  -  - 

'  ■   •   * 


XVII.  To  exercise  exclusive  legislation,  in  all  coses  whatso- 
ever, over  such  district  (not  exceeding  ten  milei  square)  as  may, 
by  cession  of  particular  states,  and  the  acceptance  of  congress, 
become  the  seat  of  government  of  the  United  States ;  and  to  ex- 
ercise like  authority  over  all  places  purchased  by  the  consent  of 
the  legislature  of  the  state  in  which  the  same  shall  be,   for  the 


582 


UNITED   STATU. 


erection  of  forts,  mftgazines,  arsenals,  dock-yanit,  ahdothernfed- 
ful  buildings ;  and 

XVII I.  To  make  all  laws  which  shall  be  necessary  and  proper 
for  carrying  into  execution  the  foregoing  powers,  and  all  otlicr 
powers  vested  by  this  constitution  in  the  government  of  the  United 
•States,  or  any  department  or  officer  thereof. 

The  migration  or  importation  of  such  persons,  as  any  of  the 
states  now  existing  shall  think  proper  to  admit,  shall  not  be  pro> 
hibitcd  by  the  congress,  prior  to  the  year  one  thousand  eight 
hundred  and  eight ;  but  a  tax  may  be  imposed  on  such  imports' 
tion,  not  exceeding  ten  dollars  for  each  person. 

Tiie  privilege  of  the  writ  of  habeas  corpus  shall  not  be  suspend, 
ed  unless  when,  iu  cases  of  rebellion  or  invasion,  the  public  safety 
may  require  it. 

No  bill  of  attainder  or  ex  post  fiicto  law  shall  be  passed. 

No  capitation  or  other  direct  tax  shall  be  laid,  unless  in  propor- 
tion to  the  census  or  enumeration  herein  before  directed  to  be  taken. 

No  tax  or  duty  sliall  be  laid  on  articles  exported  from  any  state. 
No  preference  shall  lie  given,  by  any  regulation  cf  commerce  or 
revenue,  to  the  ports  of  one  state,  over  those  of  another;  nor 
shall  vessels  bound  to  or  from  one  state,  bo  oUiged  to  enter,  clear, 
or  pay  duties  in  another. 

No  money  shall  be  drawn  from  the  treasury,  but  in  consequence 
of  appropriations  made  by  law ;  and  a  regular  statement  and  ac- 
count of  the  receipts  and  expenditures  of  all  public  money  shall 
be  published  from  time  to  time. 

No  title  of  nobility  shall  be  granted  by  the  United  States :  and 
no  person,  holding  any  office  of  profit  or  trust  under  them,  shall, 
without  the  consent  of  congress,  accept  of  any  present,  emolu- 
ments, office,  or  title,  of  any  kind  whatever,  firom  any  king,  prince^ 
w  fiH^ign  state. 

No  stttte  ^a}l  enter  into  any  treaty,  alliance,  or  confederation ; 
grant  letters  of  marque  and  reprisal;  coin  money;  emit  bills  of 
credit ;  make  any  thing  but  gold  and  silver  coin  a  tender  in  pay- 
BMntefdebt;  joiass  any  bill  of  attainder,  ex  post  facto  law,  or  law 
Impiuringthe  e4>ligation  of  contracts,  or  grant  any  title  of  nobility. 

No  state  shall,  without  the  consent  of  congress,  lay  any  im* 
posts  or  duties  on  imports  or  exports,  except  what  may  be  abso' 
lut^y  necessary  for  executing  its  inspection  laws ;  and  the  net 
pvodttce  of  all  duties  and  imposts  laid  by  any  state  on  imports  or 


ck«r, 


UNITED   STATES.  5^5 

«xport§»  fthall  be  for  the  use  of  the  treasury  of  the  United  States; 
and  all  such  laws  shall  be  subject  to  the  revision  and  control  of 
congress.  No  state  shall,  without  the  consent  of  congress,  lay 
soy  d«ty  on  tonnage,  keep  troops,  or  ships  of  yrar,  in  time 
of  peace,  enter  into  any  agreement  or  comi)act  with  another  stat^ 
or  with  a  foreign  power,  or  engage  in  war,  unless  actually  invad* 
ed,  or  in  such  inuniiient  danger  as  will  not  admit  of  delay. 

The  executive  power  is  vested  in  a  president,  who  is  elected 
for  four  years,  as  follows :  Each  state  appoints,  in  such  a  manner 
OS  tile  legislature  may  direct,  a  number  of  electors  e(|ual  to  the 
whole  number  of  senators  and  representatives,  which  that  state 
tends  to  congress.  But  no  senator  or  representative,  or  person 
liolding  any  office  of  trust  or  profit  under  the  United  States,  can 
be  an  elector.  The  electors  meet  in  their  retpective  states,  and 
vote  by  ballot  for  president  and  vice  president,  one  of  whom,  at 
least,  shall  not  be  an  inhabitant  of  the  same  state  with  themselves. 
The  list  of  the  votes  are  sent  to  the  seat  of  government,  directed 
to  the  president  of  the  senate;  who,  in  presence  of  the  senate  and 
house  of  representatives,  opens  the  certificates,  and  the  votes  are 
counted.  The  person  having  the  greatest  number  of  votes  for 
president  is  declared  to  be  elected  to  that  ofRce,  provided  he  have 
the  votes  of  a  majority  of  all  the  electors  appointed.  If  not,  then 
from  the  persons  having  the  greatest  number  of  votes  not  exceed- 
ing three)  the  house  of  representatives  choose  the  president  by 
ballot.  No  person  except  a  natural-born  citizen,  or  a  citizen  of 
the  United  States  at  the  time  of  the  adoption  of  this  constitution, 
shall  be  eligible  to  the  office  of  president ;  and  he  must  be  S5 
years  of  age,  and  have  resided  14  years  within  the  United  Statet-. 

The  president  shall  be  commander  in  chief  of  the  army  and  navy 
of  the  United  States,  and  of  the  militia  of  the  several  states,  when 
called  into  the  actual  service  of  the  United  States.  He  may  re- 
quire the  opinion,  in  writing,  of  the  principal  officers  in  each  of 
tlie  executive  departments,  upon  any  subject  relating  to  the  duties 
of  their  respective  offices :  and  he  shall  have  power  to  grant  re- 
prieves and  pardons,  for  oiFencos  against  the  United  States,  ex- 
cept in  cases  of  impeachment. 

He  shall  have  power,  by  and  with  the  advice  and  consent  of 
the  senate,  to  make  treaties  provided  two^thirds  of  the  senators 
present  concur :  and  he  sliall  nominate,  and,  by  and  with  the  ad- 
vice «nd  consent  of  the  senate,  shall  appoint  atnbaesadors,  other 


584 


UMITBD   STATES. 


public  ministers,  and  consuln,  judges  of  the  supreme  court,  and 
uli  other  oilicers  of  the  United  States,  whose  appointments  are 
not  otherwise  provided  for,  and  which  shall  be  established  by 
law.  But  the  congress  may,  by  law,  vest  the  appointment  of 
such  inferior  officers  as  they  think  proper,  in  the  president  alone, 
in  the  courts  of  law,  or  in  the  heads  of  departments.   ■  ''■ 

The  president  shall  have  power  to  fill  up  all  vacancies  that  may 
Imppen  during  the  recess  of  the  senate,  by  granting  commission!*, 
which  shall  expire  at  the  end  of  their  next  session. 

lie  shall,  from  time  to  time,  give  to  the  congress  information  of 
the  i^tate  of  the  union ;  and  recommend  to  their  consideration  such 
measures  ns  he  shall  judge  necessary^  and  expedient.  He  may,  on 
extraordinary  occai>ions,  convene  both  houses  or  either  of  them; 
and,  in  case  of  disagreement  between  them,  with  respect  to  the 
time  of  adjournment,  he  may  adjourn  them  to  such  time  as  he 
shall  think  proper.  He  shall  receive  ambassadors  and  other  pub- 
lic ministers.  He  shtU  take  care  that  the  laws  be  faithfully  ex- 
ecuted ;  and  shall  com  iuision  all  the  officers  of  the  United  States. 

The  judicial  power  of  the  United  States  shall  be  vested  in  one 
supreme  court,  and  in  such  inferior  courts  as  the  congress  may 
from  time  to  time  ordain  and  establish.  The  judges,  both  of 
the  supreme  and  inferior  courts,  shall  hola  their  offices  during 
good  behaviour ;  and  shall,  at  stated  times,  receive  for  their  ser- 
vices a  compensation,  which  shall  not  be  diminished  during  their 
continuance  in  office. 

The  judicial  power  shall  extend  to  all  cases,  in  law  and  equity, 
arising  under  this  constitution,  the  laws  of  the  United  States,  aud 
treaties  made,  or  which  shall  be  made  under  their  authority ;  to 
all  cases  affi^cting  ambassadors,  other  public  ministers,  and  con- 
suls; to  all  cases  of  admiralty  and  maritime  jurisdiction;  to 
controversies  to  which  the  United  States  shall  be  a  party,  to  con- 
troversies between  two  or  more  states,  between  a  state  and  citizens 
of  another  state,  between  citizens  of  different  states,  between  citi- 
zens of  the  same  state  claiming  lands  under  grants  of  different 
states,  and  between  a  state,  or  the  citizens  thereof,  and  foreign 
states,  citizens,  or  subjects. 

In  all  oases  affecting  ambassadors,  other  public  ministers,  and 
consuls,  and  tho«e  in  which  a  state  shall  be  a  party,  the  supreme 
court  shall  have  original  jurisdiction.  In  all  the  other  cases  be- 
ibre  mentioned,  the  supreme  court  shall  have  appellate  jurisdic- 


CNfTED   STATES.'  585 

lion,  bolli  ns  to  law  aiul   fact,  with  such  cxccptioiH,  uiul  uiivlcr 
kucli  rc|^uhitions,  ns  the  cun-^rcits  shall  make. 

The  trial  of  all  crimes,  except  in  ca';es  of  impeachment,  shall 
be  by  jury,  and  such  trial  shall  be  held  in  the  state  wlure  the 
haid  crimes  shall  have  been  Ciunmitted  ;  but  when  not  committed 
within  any  statr',  the  trial  shall  be  at  such  place  or  places  as  the 
congress  may   by  law  have  directed. 

Full  i'aith  and  credit  shall  be  given  in  each  state  to  the  public 
acts,  records,  and  jiulicial  proceedings  ol"  every  other  state.  And 
the  congress  may,  by  penal  laws,  prescribe  the  manner  in  which 
xuch  acts,  records,  and  proceedings  shall  be  proved,  and  the  elicit 
thereof. 

New  states  may  be  admitted  by  the  congress  into  this  union : 
but  no  new  state  shall  be  formed  or  erected  within  the  jurisdiction 
of  any  other  state — nor  any  state  be  formed  by  the  junction  of 
two  or  more  states — without  the  consent  of  the  legislatures  of  th« 
stotes  concerned,   as  well  as  of  the  congress. 

The  congress  shall  have  power  to  dispose  of,  and  make  all  need- 
ful rules  and  regulations  respecting  the  territory  or  other  proper- 
ty belonging  to  the  United  States :  and  nothing  in  this  constitu- 
tion shall  be  so  construed,  as  to  prejudice  any  claims  of  the  United 
States,  or  of  any  particular  state. 

The  United  States  shall  guarantee  to  every  state  in  this  union  a 
republican  foi*ni  of  government ;  and  shall  protect  each  of  them 
against  invasion,  and  on  application  of  the  legislature,  or  of  the 
txecutive  (when  the  legislatiu'c  cannot  be  convened,)  against  do- 
mestic violence. 

The  senators  and  representatives  before  mentioned,  and  the 
members  of  the  several  state  legislatures,  and  all  executive  and 
judicial  officers,  both  of  the  United  States  and  of  the  sevenil 
states,  shall  be  bound  by  oath  or  affirmation  to  support  this  con- 
stitution; but  no  religious  test  shall  ever  be  required  as  a  qualifi- 
cation to  any  office  or  public  trust  under  the  United  States. 

I  cannot  close  the  review  of  this  important  country*,  without 
expressing  sentiments  of  adoration  of  the  Supreme  IJciug,  and  of 
{gratitude  for  his  bounty  to  man ;  which  is  peculiarly  visible  in 
this  country,  whether  we  view  its  inhabitants  in  their  origin,  their 
progress,  or  their  present  state;  or  the  coiuitry  as  being  the  asy- 
lum of  tile  human  race. 

71 


[| 


I  (     v 


n] 


M  ; 


586 


UNITED   STATES. 


In  contemplating  this  delightful  subject,  the  mind  is  naturally 
led  back  to  the  British  islands,  as  that  country  from  which  the 
inhabitants  of  this  have  principally  sprung.  The  island  of  Bri- 
tain, at  a  period  when  mental  blackness  and  darkness  had  nearly 
overshadowed  the  whole  earth,  became  the  asylum  of  oppressed 
freedom;  and  though  she  had  to  struggle  most  violently  with  her 
ibes  even  there,  yet  truth  prevailed.  The  art  of  printing  was  dis- 
covered, knowledge  was  promulgated ;  and  liberty,  civil  and  re- 
ligious, was  at  last  secured  to  a  portion  of  the  human  race.  Stilly 
however,  the  struggle  was  hard  between  the  friends  of  freedom 
and  their  foes,  till  the  discovery  of  America  secured,  for  ever,  an 
asylum  for  the  oppressed,  and  a  refuge  against  the  oppressor.  It 
cniphiitically  said  to  tyranny  and  tyrants,  "  Hither  you  may  come, 
but  no  further.     Here  shall  your  proud  waves  be  staid." 

The  inhabitants  of  the  United  States  having  the  seeds  of  free- 
dom sown  among  thcHi,  have  preserved  them  against  all  attacks, 
external  and  internal ;  and  they  may  now  be  viewed  as  having 
taken  such  root  in  the  habits  and  manners  of  the  mass  of  the  peo- 
ple, that  they  will  probably  endure  while  the  world  lasts.  The 
fruits  are,  unrestrained  freedom  of  the  worship  of  the  Supreme 
Being,  of  speech,  and  of  the  press;  with  security  of  enjoying 
the  fruits  of  their  own  industry.  Under  a  government  enjoying 
all  these  blessings,  society  must  rapidly  improve  in  agriculture, 
manufactures,  commerce,  the  arts  and  sciences,  and  in  literature 
and  knowledge. 

The  state  of  agriculture  appears  to  great  advantage  in  the  course 
of  this  work,  and  the  subject  may  be  summed  Up  by  staling  a  fact 
unknown  in  many  of  the  old  countries.  Almost  every  farmer  is  a 
freeholder,  and  the  continuance  of  that  incalculable  advantage  is 
secured  by  the  plan  adopted  by  the  general  government  for  the 
disposal  of  the  public  lands.  The  general  government  possesses 
in  trust  for  the  people  of  the  United  States,  about  100  millions  of 
acres  of  land,  fit  for  cultivation,  north  of  the  Ohio,  and  50  mil- 
lions south  of  the  Tennessee.  If  to  this  be  added  the  right  ol 
purchasing  from  the  Indians,  the  amount  may  be  doubled;  to 
which  may  be  added  400  millions  of  acres  in  Louisiana,  in  all  700 
millions  of  acres,  worth  more  than  1000  milli  as  of  dollars.  These 
lands  are  sold  to  actual  settlers,  at  the  low  price  of  1  dollar  6i 
cents,  cash,  or  two  dollars  per  acre,  with  i  years  to  pay  it.  The 
purchaser  becomes  a  freeholder,    and  his  title  is  iudisputabic ; 


UNITED  STATES.  587 

while  by  the  plan  nJopted  tlie  country  is  improved,  and  the  go- 
vernment draws  a  great  revenue  from  that  source. 

Manufactures  have  increased  so  rapidly  during  the  struggle  for 
commercial  rights,  that  they  have  become  an  object  of  solicitude 
with  the  govenmient ;  and  will  unquestionably  meet  with  every 
possible  encouragement.'* 

Commerce,  so  necessaiy  as  an  auxiUary  to  agriculture  and  ma- 
nufactures, now  that  peace  is  happily  restored  with  Great  Britain, 
will  resume  its  wonted  channels,  and,  it  is  ho))ed«  will  hereafter 
be  uninterrupted  by  the  unjust  edicts  of  foreign  countries;  and 
that  those  who  prosecute  it  will  recieve  an  ample  reward. 

The  mechanic  arts,  while  they  go  hand  in  hand  with  agricul- 
ture, manufactures,  and  commerce,  so  they  partake  of  their  for- 
tune. In  the  interior  of  the  country  they  are  in  a  most  flourish- 
ing state.  In  cities  they  have  been  deprived  of  the  aid  of  active 
commerce;  but  in  its  place  they  have  received  great  support  from 
the  rapid  increase  of  manufactures.  Restored  by  the  peace  to 
their  natural  level,  they  will  unijuestionably  flourish ;  while  those 
engaged  in  them,  under  the  influence  of  wholesome  laws,  enacted 
by  legislators  chosen  by  themselves,  will  be  prosperous  and  happy. 

Literature  and  science  are  so  essential  to  society,  that  life  itself 
without  their  aid  would  be  but  a  poor  gift.  As  they  have  flourished 
amid  'the  pressure  of  war,  and  din  of  arms,  we  may  calculatt? 
that  they  will  more  eminently  flourish  during  a  peace ;  and  that: 
the  United  States,  as  they  are  remarkably  distinguished  for  fer- 
tility and  plenty,  with  a  greater  degree  of  freedom  than  ever  fell 

*  On  this  subject  wc  are  naturally  led  to  take  notice  of  the  remarkable  oircumstance 
that  at  the  time  when  it  foocame  necessary  for  America  to  manufacture  the  most  ma- 
terial articles  of  clothing  within  herself,  the  merino  sheep,  heretofore  confined  t^ 
Spain,  should  have  been  scattered  abroad  through  the  world;  and  cotton  hare  be 
come  so  plenty  as  to  be  almost  a  drug  in  the  European  market ;  the  consequence  was 
a  profusion  of  cotton  and  wool  in  America,  to  an  extent  that  20  years  ago  would  have 
been  deemed  incredible.  The  annual  amount  of  the  American  manufactures  is  esti« 
mated  at  upwards  of  230  millions  of  dollars;  being  upwards  of  sil  times  the  amount 
of  the  greatest  importation  fur  home  consumptton. 

In  a  message  of  congress,  Feb.  20,  1615,  the  president  observes,  *•  Thetc  is  no 
subject  that  can  enter  with  grealor  force  and  merit  into  the  deliberations  of  congress^ 
than  a  consideration  of  the  means  to  preserve  and  promote  Uie  manufactures  vhich 
have  sprung  into  existence,  and  attained  an  unparalleled  maturity  throughout  the 
United  States,  during  the  period  of  tlie  Euiopcan  wars.  This  source  of  iudepend> 
cnce  and  national  wealth,  I  an^iou$ly  rtctfoun^nd  t9  tte  prompt  and  constant  guar* 
dianslu'p  of  congrest. 


a  M  I 


V'  rr 


588 


UNITED  STATES. 


to  the  lot  of  ta  nation;  so  they  may  be  distinguished  for  ull  the 
blessings  that  knowledge,  science,  and  an  enlightened  religion  can 
bestow. 

The  peculiar  advantages  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  country  have 
been  elegantly  described  by  the  pen  of  a  distinguished  writer. 
*'  Kindly  separated  by  nature  and  a  wide  ocean  from  the  exter- 
minating havoc  of  one  quarter  of  the  globe;  too  high-minded  to 
endure  the  degradations  of  the  others ;  possessing  a  chosen  coun- 
try, with  room  for  their  descendants,  to  the  thousandth  and  thou- 
sandth generation — entertaining  a  due  sense  of  their  equal  rights  to 
the  use  of  their  own  faculties — to  the  acquisitions  of  their  industry 
— to  honour  and  confidence  from  their  fellow  citizens,  resulting 
not  from  birth  but  good  conduct — enlightened  by  a  benign  religion, 
professed,  indeed,  and  practised  in  various  forms,  yet  all  of  them 
inculcating  honesty,  temperance,  and  the  love  of  man  :"  the  heart 
that  feels  these  advantages  must  dilate  with  joy,  and  heave  with 
gratitude  to  the  supreme  Giver. 

The  vast  quantity  of  fine  lands  to  the  west  invites  ano  ^ronr- 
ages  an  emigration  from  the  east,  and  has  a  tendency  to  j  .  i  se 
two  sections  together  by  the  indissoluble  ties  of  kindred  aiicotion ; 
the  manufacturing  industry  of  the  north  is  aided  and  encouraged 
by  the  surplus  raw  materials  and  demand  for  manufactures  in  the 
south,  and  both,  feeling  the  convenience  of  the  exchange,  are 
bound  together  by  the  ties  of  mutual  interest ;  the  progress  ol" 
manufactures  and  of  commerce  has  a  tendency  to  cement  tlic 
Union  every  where,  and  the  genius  of  Washington  hovers  over  it, 
*'  indi<THantly  frowning  upon  the  first  dawning  of  every  attcnipt 
to  alienate  any  portion  of  the  community  from  the  rest,  or  to  en- 
feeble the  sacred  ties  which  link  together  the  various  parts;" 
while  the  whole  is  under  the  superintendance  of  "  an  over-rulin<r 
Providence,  which,  by  its  dispensations,  proves  that  it  delights  in 
the  happiness  of  man  here,  and  in  his  greater  happiness  hereafter." 


w 


POSTSCRIPT. 

It  is  now  upwards  of  two  years  since  these  travels  issued  from  tl»e 
press,  and  every  circumstance  relative  to  the  geography  of  the  coun- 
try, that  has  come  under  the  author's  observation,  has  tended  to 
strengthen  his  opinion,  as  to  the  rising  greatness  of  the  Western  world; 
and  particularly  of  that  important  section  of  it,  where  he  has  fixed  liis 


UNITED   STATES.  589 

residence,  The  United  States.  They  have  not  only  mnintniiied  a 
struggle,  single  handed,  against  the  greatest  military  power  in  the 
world ;  but  they  have  in  many  hard-fought  contests  earned  a  never- 
dying  renown  in  arms,  the  best  pledge  of  security  from  foreign  aggres- 
sion, and  the  best  passport  to  national  respect.  During  the  contest, 
too,  the  progress  of  society  has  hardly  been  in  a  sii.gle  instance  arrest- 
ed. Agriculture,  manufactures,  and  the  arts,  have  moved  on  with 
uninterrupted  sway,  and  many  valuable  branches  have,  indeed,  been 
accelerated  by  the  war. 

The  author,  having  devoted  his  whole  time  to  the  geography  of  the 
country,  has  had  an  opportunity  of  noticing  all  the  leading  facts  rela- 
tive to  the  progress  of  society  as  they  occurred,  and  the  developement 
of  a  few  circumstances  will  not  be  judged  misplaced,  to  illustrate  a 
subject  become  habitually  dear  to  him — the  rapid  career  of  tub 

COUNTRY  TO  UNPARALLELED  GREATNESS. 

A  cartful  perusal  of  the  foregoing  pages  of  this  volume  will  show, 
in  a  particular  manner,  the  extent  and  importance  of  the  country  be- 
yond the  mountains :  but  at  the  time  it  was  published,  the  author  had 
no  adequate  conception  of  the  extenf  of  that  portion  of  the  country 
which  lies  beyond  the  Mississippi,  nor  of  the  unparalleled  magnitude  of 
that  river  and  its  branches.  Facts  recently  promulgated  have  enabled 
him  to  construct  a  new  and  interesting  map  of  the  ountry,  which 
!;hows  the  extremities  of  the  whole  waters  flowing  into  the  Mississippi, 
of  which  the  view  was  to  him  perfectly  astonishing ;  and  a  short  ac- 
count of  it  will  probably  be  gratifying  to  the  reader. 

The  eastern  extremity  of  this  immense  river,  is  the  Allegany  river, 
which  rises  in  Pennsylvania,  180  miles  from  Philadelphia,  in  long.  0* 
50'  west  from  Washington. 

The  western  extremity  is  a  branch  of  the  Missouri,  in  west  long.  3ii* 
15',  within  430  miles  of  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

The  distance  between  these  two  extremities,  in  a  direct  line,  is  JG80 
miles. 

The  northern  extremity  is  a  branch  of  the  Missouri,  in  50°  i'2'  north 
latitude,  550  miles  west  by  north  of  the  Lake  of  the  Woods. 

The  southern  extremity  is  the  south  pass  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico, 
in  north  lat.  29°  0' ;  90  miles  in  a  direct  line  below  New  Orleans. 

The  distance  between  these  two  extremities,  in  a  direct  line,  is 
1650  miles. 

The  river  and  its  branches  spread  over  nearly  IjStSjSSQ  square 
tnilcs,   viz. 

Missouri territory,thewhole,9 85250  North  Carolina,  ^^yth,  1 1  lO 

North-West  territory,  i,       53 US  South  Carolina,  rf 5th,  152 

Illinois  territory,  the  v»  hole,  52000  Georgia,  -j-Vth,  2000 

Indiana  Territory,  ||ths,       37050  Kentucky,  the  whole,  40110 

35()8S  Tennessee,  the  whole,  43200 

16493  Missouri  territory,  |d,  31  ji60 

521  Louisiana,^,  20500 

1 10  

2S200  Square  miles,     1 340289 

Being  861,624,960  acres!  capable 'of supporting  500  millions  ofim- 
raan  beings ! ! 

The  whole  territory  of  the  United  States  is  1205,635,840  acre?,  of 
which  the  Mississippi  waters  nearly  ^ths  ! 


Ohio,  fths, 
Pennsylvania,  -fd. 
New  York,  -rsiyth, 
Maryland,  rl^rth, 
Virginia,  fths, 


I     ,    1  -  it  , 

■I     ,'•■ 


\4 


I' 


I  ji  ■(,' 


5 1* 


m 


! : 


h90 


VNItID  ST4TE4. 


I  ^ 


The  country  watered  by  the  Mississippi  is  28  times  larger  than  ali 
England. 

It  if  1 1  times  larger  than  Great  Britain  and  Ireland. 

It  is  172  times  larger  than  Massachusetts. 

It  is  40  times  as  large  aa  the  whole  New  England  states,  exclusive 
of  Maine. 

It  is  20  times  as  large  as  the  whole  New  England  states,  including 
Maine. 

What  afield  for  contemplation !  Every  lover  of  the  human  race,  who 
takes  delight  in  their  progessive  improvement,  must  rejoice  in  the 
review  of  this  country,  containing  room  for  their  multiplying  and  needy 
offspring,  to  a  period  remote  beyond  our  utmost  calculations ;  and  will 
pronounce  a  blessing  upon  the  heads  of  those  patriots,  who  matured  a 
system  for  its  settlement,  calculated,  by  makinc  every  man  a  freeholder, 
to  baffle  all  the  petty  efforts  of  tyrant  man  to  u^uikle  his  fellows  in  this 
quarter  of  the  plobe. 

While  the  citizens  of  the  United  States  have  cause  to  rejoice  in  the 
extent  of  their  country,  and  the  achievements  of  its  brave  defenders; 
they  have  also  the  satisfaction  to  know  that  it  has  rapidly  increased  in 
population  and  national  wealth,  even  during  the  war.  The  census  of 
the  state  of  New  York,  just  published,  proves  incontestibly  this  fact ; 
the  result  of  which,  with  a  tew  observations,  shall  close  the  subject. 

CENSUS  OF  NEW- YORK. 


coimncs. 


rOrULATIOK. 


Albany  33885 

Allegany  3833 

Sroome(Owegonotreturned)8482 
Cayuga  37318 

Chatauque  4259 

Chenango,  (Eastern,  Green. 

and  Pharsalia  not  ret.)    20219 
Clinton  7764 

Columbia  33979 

Cortland  10993 

Delaware,  (Franklin  not  r.)  19239 
Duchess  43707 

Essex,  (Jay  and  Seroon  not 

returned)  ^  7807 

Franklin  2568 

Genessee  23973 

Greene  20200 

Herkimer  20837 

Jefferson  18564 

Kin^  7655 

l«wis  6848 

Madison  26276 

Montgomery  4O03O 

New  York  95519 

Niagara  (not  returned.) 
Oneida,  (Florence  not  ret.) 44833 


couMTiis.  rorviAnov, 

Onondago  30801 

Ontario  56892 

Orange  31284' 

♦Otsego  405*7 

♦Putnam  »353 

Queens  19269 

Rensselaer  36833 

Richmond  5502 

Rockland  7817 

Saratoga  3113!) 

Schenectady  10896 

Schoharie  18323 

Seneca  21401 
St.  Lawrence,  (Oswegat- 
chie,  Ilossie,  and  Russell^ 

not  returned)  7095 

Steuben  ni21 

Suffolk  21368 

Sullivan  62J3 

Tioga          '              .  10433 

Ulster  26328 

*Warren  7838 

Washington  36359 

Westchester  26367 


1,014,633 


*  The^  counties  have  bten  laid  out  since  1810. 


Wmo  STATES.  591 

The  aggregate  population,  in  1810,  of  the  county  and  towns  from 
which  the  retumi  have  not  been  received  (except  Easton  and  Rotsie) 
was  13945  ;  so  that  the  total  population  of  the  state  may  be  consider- 
ed to  be  about  one  million  and  tliirty  thousand  souls. 

By  contrasting  this,  with  the  census  of  1810,  in  page  rSO  of  this 
work,  it  will  be  seen,  that  in  the  course  of  4  years  80,780  inhabitant! 
have  been  added  to  the  state  of  New  York ;  and  it  is  a  singular  fact, 
that  the  increase  has  been  greatest  in  some  of  those  cout  ties  imme- 
diately borderine  on  the  seat  of  war.  Jefferson,  which  includes  Sac- 
ket's  Harbour,  has  increased  3484.  Chataugue,  on  Lake  Erie,  ha* 
increased  1878 ;  and  Genessee,  on  X^akc  Ontario,  has  increased  11,385; 
being  nearly  double  its  population  in  1810. 

A  country  possessing  faculties  like  this  is  invulnerable,  and  its  liber- 
ties fixed  oh  a  rock,  not  to  be  overturned  by  human  power.  The  ra- 
pid growth  of  society,  under  such  circumstances,  is  certain ;  and  an 
attempt  to  repress  it  would  bd  equally  futile  with  an  attempt  to  repress 
the  waves  of  the  ocean. 


iii  '1  r 


30801 
56892 
3128* 
405S7 
M353 
19269 
36833 
5502 
7817 
31139 
10896 
18323 
21401 


■■'^  ; 


m 


7095 
11121 
21368 

6233 
1043S 
26328 

7838 
30359 
26367 


,U    : 


irf 


i  1 


592 


TABLE   OF    DISTANCES,   ^€0 


Table  of  distanecsy  State   of  the  Weather^    and  ExpenccSf    in   a 
Jouinn/  through  the  Western  Conntty. 


Date. 


Situation. 


1811 
Aug.  7  New  York 


Sept. 


S  Bordcnton 
9  Philadelphia 


loElizabethtown 
ll'chambersburg 

1 2  M'Connehtown 

13  Bedford 

14  Somerset 
I^Greeh«burg 
IGlPittsburg 

i 

20 

21  Harmony 

22 

SSiPittsburg 

24'Ohio  river 

25  Georgetown 

26 

27 

28 

29 

30 

SI 


Steubenville 
Wheeling 
Ohio  river 

Do. 
Marietta 


1 

2!ohio  river 

sj     Do. 

4jLe:art's  falls 

5|GalliopoIift 


6 

7 

« 

9 

10 

II 

13 

13 


Ohio  river. 

Do. 
Alexandria 
Manchester 
Ohio  river 
Cincinnati 


Thermo. 


70 


G6 


81 
80|63 


81 

74 
63 


Wind  at 
Noon. 


80  8.  W. 

7«'n.  W. 


70  71  Calm 
84  76N. 
74  65  N.W. 
70  66  W. 
796«S.W. 
78-78  S. 


80,65 
6273 
22|69 
8450 
38,56 

36,70  ,„,,„_. 
3170  79'76Do. 
72  80  74  Do. 
76  91 '84  Calm. 
74  giJssDo. 
78  91182  Do. 
25  78   82  72  Do. 

70   76  76N.W. 
25,63   72  64  Do. 
12;54    80*64  Do. 
76*66  Calm 
8063N.E. 
84  70  Calm 
82  70  Do. 
86'c3  S. 

74  66N.W. 
84  68  Do. 
84  72E. 

84  70 Do. 
80  70S.  W. 

85  74  Do. 
78  66;W. 
72  62 bo. 

75  60!Do. 

7065,N.  E. 

52  52   74fi4iN. 

43  50   74  65N.W. 
39  64  62  03 


30,56 
3160 
23  60 
28  64 

25  68 

23  71 

l72 

70 

6(>8 

.'56  70 

3169 

41  72 

22  53 

4155 

4160 


56 
o4 


Do. 

W. 

Do. 


Atmoi* 

phere  at 

Noon. 


Cloudy 

Clear 
Cloudy 


Foggy 

Clear 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Cloudy 

Do. 

Clear 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Cloudy 

Clear 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Cloudy 

Shower 

Cloudy 

Do. 

I  Clear 

jCloudy 

IDo. 

Do. 

Iciear 

Do. 

Cloudy 

Do. 

Do. 

Rain 

Cloudy 

Do. 


Eipencei. 


Items. 


D.C 


Fare    to  Pbiladel 
phia  by  stcam-boat  4  50 
Board,  &c. 
Fare  to  Pittsburg 
Luggage 
Board,  &c. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 


243 

20| 

'  350 

156 


53 


} 


See  the  23d 


Horse  hire 
Bill  at  Harmony 
Expences  by  way 
'Bill  at  Pittsburg 


37 
157 


1 


Charges  to 
riettr. 


Ma- 


3 
38S 


Marietta 


C  BUI  at  Mari 

1 

J 

^BiU 


74 


31 


I  Charges  to  Cir      ^^^ 
r     cinnati 


Cincinnati 


250| 

7.i.V.' 


'i-t..  ■ 


TABLK   OP   DISTAMrBS^  SgC. 


Date. 


1811. 
Sept.  14 
15 
16 
17 
16 
19 

ao 
ai 

22 
23 
94 
25 
26 
27 
28 
29 
30 

Oct.   ] 

2 
3 


Situation. 


9 

a 


Forward 
Ohio  river 

Do. 

Do. 
West  Port 
Ohio  River 
Loui      .le 


Shelbyville 

Frankfort 

Lexington 


Paris 
Blue  Lick 
Washington 
West  Union 

Bainbridge 
Chillicothe 


7|New  Lancaster 


Zajiesvtlle 


8 

9 
10 
11 
12 
13 

1 4  Coshocton 

15  N.Philadelphia 

16  Canton 


TlSpringfield 

8  Tinker's  Creek 

9  Cleveland 


1 
1 

1 

20 

21 

22  Grand  river 

33  Ashtabula  river 


988 

9 

93 

32 


Thermo 


u 

L3 


(A 


45 
46 
62 


S0[C2 
'35fi5 
4268 
68 
CO 
62 
60 
68 
74 
62 
61 
60 
50 
46 
2l|44 
20' 56 
21^55 


32 
19 
26 


22 


70 
T« 
81 
77 
77 
78 
72 
71 
7S 
78 


3848 


19 

46 
34'54 


53t  76 


S6C4 
62 
63 
68 
67 
58 
3048 
SC|48 
24  46 
18  SO 
3030 
12  54 
36 
30 
30  82 
30  45 


1667 


79 


Wind 

at 
Noon. 


W. 

s. 

Do. 
Do; 
S.  W. 
Calm 
Do. 


60  N.  E. 


E. 

Do. 

S.  W 
75164  N.  w'. 
C8C3N.  £. 
6863S.  E. 
64C0J!. 


58]52 
6446 


76  60  S 
786018. 
«056,Do, 


N. 
W. 


E. 


76j54Do. 
54  Do. 
70j52N.  E. 
76  58'S. 


70 

72 
78 
76 
76 
78 
54 
70 


60  Do. 
76  Do. 
74  Do. 
71  Do. 
50'S.W. 
68  Do. 
50'N.  E. 


58  S. 
50].1«S.  W. 
5834|N.  W. 

<?6S. 

48  Do. 

34  N.  W. 

35  variab. 
47,'S.  E. 
33  N.  W. 


68 
70 
34 
48 
54 
48 


I 


Atmo« 
sphere 

at 
Noon. 


Clear 

Cloudy 

'clear 

Do. 

.Cloudy 

'Do. 

Rain 

Cloudy 

Do. 

Clear 

Cloudy 

Rain 

Clear 

Do. 

Cloudy 

Clear 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 
Do. 
Do. 

Cloudy 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Rain 

Cloudy 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Clear 

Do. 

Cloudy 

Sleet 

Clear 

Do. 

Cloudy 


Expenees. 


Items. 


I 


Forward 


Charges  to  Lou« 
iiville 


1 


Stabling* 
Shoeing 
I  Bill  at  Louisville 

Board 
Do. 


;] 


Bill  Lexington 


Board,  &c. 

'Do. 

Do. 

j  Ferry  Ohio 

[Board,  &c. 

I  Do. 

■Do. 

Do. 

Toll 

'Board,  &c. 

'Do. 


/Bill 
VFer: 

lOnl 


Zanesvilie 
Ferry 
Ostler 


Board,  &c. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

I  Bill  Cleveland 

Board,  &c. 

Do. 

Do. 


693 


D. 


75 


iS 


81 
5  50 

l'5,i 
2(i9 


987 


8 


137  Hi 


75 
50 
75 
6 
50 
R8 

43 

12 
20 

69 
13 
10 
'»6 
50 


•  Here  I  purchased  a  horse  for  25  dollars  ;  but  as  it  was  afterwards  sold  about 
the  same  price,  it  is  not  included  in  the  account. 

I  Here  I  broke  my  thermometer,  and  could  not  procure  another ;  in  conietiuence 
of  which  I  was  obliged  to  judge  of  the  weather  by  my  feeling* ;  but  I  preiume  the 
account  was  nearly  correct. 

75 


I  i  :i 


I     .1 

t 


h 


1  I 


•;  ;^ 


1)94 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES,  ^C. 


Thermo 

Expences. 

"1 

Date. 

Situatisn. 

i 

Wind 
at  noon 

Atnio« 

aphere 

at 

1 

i 

S 

s 

3 

d 

8 
z 

1 

5 

Noon. 

Itemt. 

D. 

C. 

1811.                Forward 

1667 

Forward 

137 

13 

Oct.  2-1  Erie 

25 

46 

33 
33 

35 

36 

34 
34 

N£. 
Do. 

Clear 
Da 

I  Bill  Erie 

68 

26|Perry'« 

30 

28 

46 

31 

Do. 

Do. 

Board,  &c. 

45 

27 

Cataraeus 

31 

30 

56 

56 

S. 

Do. 

Do. 

56 

28  Buifalu 

SI 

56 

68 

58 

S.W. 

Do. 

Do. 
Ferry 

63 
50 

29 

Chippaway 

22 

87 

46 

55 

S.E. 

Hazy 

Board,  &c. 

60 

Guide  to  Falls 

50 

Whiiky 
Ferry 

25 
31 

30 

Lewistovrn 

Fort  Niagara 

9 
6 

55 

«9 

52 

S.W. 

Clear 

C  Bill  LewUtown 

3 

50 

31 

I.cwistown 

6 

38  58'48 

E. 

Cloudy 

s 

Nov.  1 

Sclilosser 

9 

485636 

S.W. 

Do. 

Board,  &c. 

I 

37 

2 

West.  Turnpike 

27 

314735 

Do.      1 

Do. 

Do. 

1 

25 

S 

Batavia 

21 

34!.';o'37 

N. 

Do. 

Do. 

1 

81 

4 

Avon 

31 

285656 

S.E.      1 

Clear 

Do. 

1 

3 

5 
6 

Canandaigua 

18 

45'54'36 
46  5838 

Calm    ' 
N.E. 

Cloudy 
Do. 

J  Boy 

19 

7 

West.Turnpik 

10,48,58  55 

p. 

Do. 

Board,  &c. 

1 

8 

Geneva 

6  4S,6055 

S. 

Do. 

Do. 

1 

i 

1 

1 

Horse  shoe 

31 

9 

Auburn 

23 

55  62.46 

1 

W. 

Do. 

Board,  &«. 
rolls 

1 

62 
16 

10 

Manlius  Square 

3338  48  45 

N.W. 

Showr. 

Board,  &c. 
Horse  shoe 

I 

46 
31 

11 

West.  Turnpike 

29,37  48  « 

N.E. 

Cloudy 

Board  and  tolls 

72 

12 
IS 

Utica 

" 

36  38  36 
373836 

Do. 
Do. 

Do. 
Do. 

I  Bill  Utica 
Horse  shoes 

381 

1 

14 

Herkimer 

15 

343433 

N.W. 

Do. 

Board  and  tolls 
Horse  shoe 

172 

25 

15,Nose 

3S 

3032  35 

Do. 

Clear 

Board,  &c. 

125 

leJBroadalbin 

18  28  32  36 

N.E. 

Cloudy 

Do. 

9 

17B»llston 

20  4.';  48  36 

S.W. 

Do. 

Do. 

84 

laWaterford 

18  323636 

N.W. 

Clear 

Do. 

125 

19 
20 

Albany 

11,32  3534 
31  36  37 

Do. 
Do. 

Do. 
Snow 

;■  Bill  Albany 

337 

21 

Hudson  river 

90  35  36  42 

Do. 

Cloudy 

Passage   for  horse, 
including  hay  and 
oats 

a 

SO 

22 

New  York 

7047  5046 

Do. 

Clear 

Passage  by   steam- 

I 

boat 

7 

23411 

. — 

— 1 

1 

18936' 

Thwe  in 
In  f 
IrcJi 
Upp 

'Hie  expc 

From  New 

From  1'liil.u 

Vijiit  to  ilic 

Mxpcnces  at 

Fioiii  l»iftsbi 

At  Marietta 

From  M.irioi 

At  C'incinnal 

From  Cincin 

At  the  Falls 

From  the  Fu 

At  I.oxingtoi 

From  Lcjtiij'i 


This  will  ai 

points  iji  the  { 

rica  was  iiotici 

There  are  t 

tcrior  of  Pctir 

country  gencr 

to  travel  by  wi 

their  horses,  a 

«5top  all  niglit. 

when  the  mov 

Tliere  are  k 

go,  that  it  is  d 

ibllowing  view 

■A  ^'-^ggoa  * 

case  20  miles  a 

the  whole  expe 

the  family  can  t 

cut  to  Clevelau 

interior  of  the 

great  many  wa^ 

313,  thatwagg( 

carriage  of  a  fiu 

board ;  wliich  a 

served,  that  in  I 

eastern  states  i 

can  frequently  I 

Erie,  jind  on  th 

burgh  is  the  mc 

preferred  by  su( 


13 

I  68 

i  45 

I  56 

1  63t 

SO 

1  50 

50 

25 

31 

50 


37 

25 

81 

3 

19 


l 


1 
I  5 

31 
6 
16 
1  46 
31 
72| 

3  81 

M 

1.72 

25 
125 

I- 

125 
337 


TABLE     OF    DISTANCES,    ^T. 

These  imvcls  altogcUior  comprehend  it  range  of  21, RIO  miles,  vi/. 
In  Srntlaiid 
Ireland 
Upper  Canada 


59r> 


08O 

England 

1130 

920 

Atlantic  Ocean 

130(X) 

80 

United  States 

W^t^ 

iil.HlU 


Tlie  expcnces  of  the  journey  In  tlic  foregouifj  taljte  may  be  arranged  as  follows : 


From  New   York  to  Pliiladel|»liia 
From  riiiladelpliia  to  I'itisburgli 
VJKit  to  the  i  lamionixt  Society 
I'lxpunces  at  Pittslnirgli 
From  I'jtthburjjii  to  MiricUa 
At  Marietta  ... 

From  M.irietta  to  Cincinnati 
At  Cincinnati  .         .  - 


It.  C.  f).  C. 

G  9.3   At  Zaneiville         -         -  h  7J 

32  75    From  Zanesville  to  (Cleveland  5  73 

h    1 2  At  Cleveland        •         -  4 

8     6  From  Cleveland  to  the  Falls  of  Xiag.  10  32 
6  71  At  the  falls  -         -  3  'J5 

3  31    From  the  Falls  to  Uokc  Ontario,  and 
«  94  back  to  Fort  Schlosser  5  1 B 

2  50  From  Fort  Schlosser  to  Utica  10  91 


From  Cincinnati  to  the  falls  of  Ohio   6 


At   Ulicii 


5  f<l 


At  the  Fulls 

From  the  Falls  to  Lexingtoa 

At  I^exington 

From  Lcxiuyton  to  Zanesville 


8  5 1    From   Utiia  to  A Ibany,  by  UuUston  6  40 
4  25   At  Albany            -           -  3  37 

9  87   Passage  to  New  York  7 

8  31    Ditto  for  horse         -         -  5  50 


Dof.  189  30- 


This  will  afibrd  a  pretty  correct  idea  of  the  expence  of  tra* tiling  between  diirercnt 
points  ill  tfce  interior  of  the  country.  The  expence  of  a  passage  iVom  Europe  to  Amtr 
ricB  was  noticed  in  the  Introtluction,  page  1  J. 

There  arc  two  great  leading  roads  to  the  western  country  ;  ttie  one  through  ili:?  in* 
terior  of  Peimsylvania,  the  other  through  New  York.  Families  moving  to  the  western 
country  generally  take  the  one  most  csntiguous  to  them.  The  most  commvn  mode  Is 
to  travel  by  waggons  of  their  own,  in  which  ca.se  they  pntvide  food  for  themselves  and 
their  horses,  and  are  accommodated  with  lodgings  at  the  diil'er^nt  houses  where  they 
fitop  all  night.  The  charge  for  this  accommo<l-.ition  is  generally  very  moderate,  and, 
when  the  moving  family  is  poor,  the  payment  is  often  dispensed  with. 

There  are  to  many  different  points  from  whence  emigrants  set  out,  and  to  which  they 
go,  that  it  is  difficult  to  form  an  estimate  that  will  apply  to  them  all.  Prol^ably  the 
following  view  may  be  the  most  intelligible. 

A  waggon  with  5  horses  can  accommodate  7  persons,  and  can  travel  with  tolerabU 
case  20  miles  a  day,  the  Sundays  being  devoted  to  rest ;  anil,  by  travelling  economically, 
the  whole  expence  will  not  exceed  2  dollars  per  day,  or  14  dollars  per  week,  in  which 
the  family  can  travel  1 20  miles.  At  this  rate,  a  family  of  7  can  travel  from  Connecti- 
cut to  Cleveland,  600  miles,  for  70  dollars;  or  from  Philadelphia  to  Zanesville,  ia  iha 
interior  of  the  state  of  Ohio,  425  miles,  for  aboiit  60  dollars.  On  tlie  latter  route  a 
great  many  waggons  travel  between  Philadelphia  and  Pittsburg,  and  it  was  stated,  page 
313,  that  waggon-hire  was  abjut  5  dollars  per  cvvt.  for  both  persons  and  property.  The 
carriage  of  afiunilyof  7,  by  this  conveyance,  would  cost  about  45  dollars,  besides  their 
board ;  which  appears  more  in  proportion  than  by  the  other  mode ;  but  it  is  to  be  ob- 
served, that  io  this  way  it  is  unnecessary  to  purchase  horses  or  waggons,  which,  in  tfie 
eastern  states,  are  pretty  dear,  and  there  is  no  wear  and  tear.  A  consideralilc  savins 
can  frequently  be  m?de  on  both  routes  by  water  conveyance :  on  tlm  north  by  Lake 
Erie,  and  on  the  scuth  by  the  Ohio  river.  The  stage  between  Philadelphia  and  Pitl;v. 
burgh  is  the  most  agreeable  and  expeditious  mode  of  travelling  on  that  road  and  h 
preferred  by  »uc?i  as  can  afibrd  the  expence. 


APPENDIX. 


No.  I. 

()/  thr  Came  nf  Yrl/nxo  Ferrr;  nmlthe  mrnm  of  prevent  in  f^  it  in  pfniC\ 
not  net  injhtvil  H'll/i  it :  addressed  to  the  Board  of  Health  in  America, 
y?//  Thomas  Paint. 

A  GHEAT  deal  has  been  wrif ton  respecting  ihe  yellow  fever.  First, 
with  respect  to  its  chu8<:k,  whether  domestic  or  imported.  Secondly, 
on  the  mode  of  treating  it. 

What  1  am  poiog  to  su|^£;e«t  in  this  essay  is,  to  ascertain  some  point 
to  begin  at,  in  order  to  arrive  at  the  cause;  and  for  this  purpose  some 
preliminary  observations  are  necessary. 

The  yellow  fever  alw.iys  bej^ins  in  the  lowest  part  of  a  populous  mer- 
cantile town,  near  the  wati'r,  and  continues  there,  without  aHecting 
the  higher  parts.  The  sphere,  or  circuit  it  acts  in,  is  small,  and  it 
ratios  most  where  large  <]uantities  of  new  ground  have  been  made,  by 
banking  out  of  the  river,  for  the  purpose  of  making  wharves.  The  ap- 
pearance and  prevalence  of  the  yellow  fever  in  these  places,  being 
those  where  \essels  arrive  from  the  West  Indies,  has  caused  the  belici', 
that  the  yellow  fever  was  imported  from  thence.  But  here  are  two 
cases  acting  in  the  same  place:  the  one,  the  condition  of  the  ground 
nt  the  wharves,  which,  being  new  made  on  the  muddy  and  filthy  bot- 
tom of  the  river,  is  different  from  the  natural  condition  of  the  ground 
in  the  higher  parts  of  the  city,  and  consequently  subject  to  produce 
a  different  kind  of  effluvia  or  vapour;  the  other  case  is  the  arrival  of 
vessels  from  the  West  Indies. 

In  the  state  of  Jersey,  neither  of  these  cases  has  taken  place ;  no 
shipping  arrive  there,  and  consequently  there  has  been  no  embankment 
for  the  purpose  of  wharves,  and  the  yellow  fever  has  never  broke  out 
in  Jersey.  This,  however,  does  not  decide  the  point,  as  to  the  imme- 
diate cause  of  the  fever  ;  but  it  shows  that  this  species  of  fever  is  nut 
common  to  the  country  in  its  natural  state ;  and  I  believe  the  same  was 
the  case  in  the  West  Indies,  before  embankments  began,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  making  wharves  ;  which  always  alter  the  natural  condition  of 
the  ground.  No  old  history,  that  I  know  of,  mentions  such  a  disorder 
asi  the  yellow  fiever. 

A  person  seized  with  the  yellow  fever  in  an  affected  part  of  the  town, 
and  brought  into  the  healthy  part,  or  into  the  country  and  among  heal- 
thy persons,  does  not  con^municate  it  to  the  neighbourhood,  or  to  those 
immediately  around  him.  Why  then  are  we  to  suppose  it  can  be 
brought  from  the  West  Indies,  a  distance  of  more  than  a  thousand  miles, 
since  we  see  it  cannot  be  carried  from  one  town  to  another,  nor  from 
one  part  of  a  town  to  anoti.er,  at  home?  Is  it  in  the  air?  .This  ques- 
tion on  the  case  requires  a  minute  examination.  In  the  first  place,  the 
difference  between  air  and  wind  is  the  same  as  between  a  stream  of 
water,  and  a  standing  water.  A  stream  of  water  is  water  in  motion, 
and  wir.d  is  air  in  motioi;.  In  a  gentle  breeze,  the  whole  body  of  air, 
us  far  the  breeze  extends,  moves  at  the  rate  of  seven  or  eight  miles  an 
hour;  in  a  high  wind,  at  the  rate  of  seventy,  eighty,  or  a  hundred 
miles  an  hour.     When  we  sec   the  shadow  of  a  cloud  gliding  on  tliu 


I 


ESSAY  ON    YELLOW    FE\En. 


flf)7 


surface  of  the  ground,  wc  see  the  rate  ut  wliicli  itic  air  moves,  nnd  it 
must  be  a  good  trotting  horse  thnt  can  keep  naco  with  the  tfliadowy 
even  in  a  gentle  brec/.e  i  consequently,  a  body  of  air  that  is  in  and 
over  any  place  of  the  stnne  extent  as  the  aifectid  part  of  a  city  may  be, 
will,  intheiipace  of  an  hour,  even  at  the  moderate  rate  1  speak  oi\ 
he  moved  seven  or  ei^ht  miles  to  leeward,  and  its  place,  in  and 
over  the  city,  will  be  supplied  by  a  new  body  of  air  coming  from  a 
healthy  part  seven  or  eight  miles  distant  the  contrary  way,  and  so 
on  in  continual  succession.  The  disorder,  thercfori',  is  not  in  th^>  air 
considered  in  its  natural  state,  and  never  stationary  — Thiit  leads  to 
another  consideration  of  the  case. 

An  impure  liHuvia,  arising  froip  some  cause  in  the  ground,  in  ihc 
manner  that  fermenting  li(|uors  produce  an  effluvia  near  its  surface  that 
is  fatal  to  life,  will  become  mixed  with  the  air  contiguous  to  it,  and  ai 
fast  as  tluit  body  of  air  moves  off,  it  will  imj)regnate  every  Kucceeding 
body  of  air,  however  pure  it  may  be,  when  it  arrives  at  the  place. 

'Ihe  result  troni  this  state  of  the  case  is,  that  the  impure  air  or  va- 
pour that  generates  the  yellow  fever,  issues  from  the  earth,  that  is. 
from  the  new  made  earth,  or  ground,  raised  on  the  muddy  and  filthy 
bottom  of  the  river,  which  impregnates  every  frehh  body  of  air  that 
comes  over  the  place,  in  like  manner  as  air  becomes  heated  when  it 
approaches  or  passes  over  the  fire,  or  becomes  offensive  in  smell  wtien 
it  approaches  or  passes  over  a  body  of  corrupt  vegetable  or  aniutul 
matter  in  a  state  of  putrefaction. 

The  muddy  bottom  of  rivers  contains  great  rjuantitics  of  impurr. 
and  often  inflammable  air  (carburetted  hydrogen  gas,)  injurious  to  life; 
and  which  remains  entangled  in  the  mud  till  let  loose  from  thence  by 
some  accident.  This  air  is  produced  by  the  dissolution  and  decomposi- 
tion of  any  combustible  matter  falling  into  the  water,  and  sinking  into 
the  mud,  of  which  the  following  circumstance  will  serve  to  give  some 
explanation. 

In  the  fall  of  the  year  that  New  York  was  evacuated  (1783,)  gene- 
ral Washington  had  his  head  (|uarters  at  Mrs.  Berrian's,  at  Rocky-Hill, 
in  Jersey,  and  I  was  there.  The  congress  then  sat  at  Princeton.  We 
had  several  times  been  told,  that  the  river  or  creek  that  runs  near  the 
bottom  of  Rocky-Hill,  and  over  which  there  is  a  mill,  might  be  set  on 
6re — for  that  was  the  term  the  country  people  used  ;  and  as  general 
Washington  had  a  mind  to  try  the  experiment,  general  Lincoln,  who 
was  also  there,  undertook  \o  make  preparation  for  it  against  the  next 
evening,  November  5th.  This  was  to  be  done,  as  we  were  told,  by 
disturbing  the  mud  at  the  bottom  of  the  river,  and  holding  something 
in  a  blaze,  as  paper  or  straw,  a  little  above  the  surface  of  the  water. 

Colonels  Humphries  and  Cob  were  at  that  time  aid-de-camps  of 
general  Washington,  and  those  two  gentlemen  and  myself  got  into  an 
argument  respecting  the  cause.  Their  opinion  was,  that  on  disturb- 
ing the  bottom  of  the  river,  some  bituminous  matter  arose  to  the  sur- 
face, w  hich  took  fire  when  the  light  was  put  to  it.  I,  en  the  contrary, 
supposed  that  a  quantity  of  inflanunable  air  was  let  loose,  which  as- 
cended through  the  water,  and  took  fire  above  the  surface.  Each  party 
held  to  his  own  opinion,  and  the  next  evening  the  experiment  was  tu 
be  made. 

A  scow  had  been  stationed  in  the  milldam,  and  general  Washinffton, 
general  Lincoln^  and  myself,  and  I  believe  colonel  Cob  (for  coTobcI 


11  •' 


[^KJ 


i!"  '.s 


£98  APPUNDIX,    NO.    I. 

Humphries  was  sick,)  nnd  three  or  four  Koldiers  with  poles,  were  nitf 
on  board  the  hcow.  (rcncral  Watihingtun  placed  himself  at  one  rnu  of 
the  Mcow,  and  I  at  the  other.  Each  of  us  had  a  roll  of  cartridijc  pa- 
per, which  we  lighted  and  held  over  the  water,  about  two  or  tlirec 
inches  from  the  surface,  when  the  soldiers  began  disturbing  the 
bottom  of  the  river  with  poles. 

As  general  Washington  tai  at  one  end  of  the  scow,  and  I  at  the 
other,  I  could  see  better  any  tiling  that  might  happen  from  his  light, 
than  I  could  from  my  own,  over  which  I  was  nearly  |)ernendiculnr. 
When  the  mud  at  the  bottom  was  disturbed  by  the  poles,  tne  uir-hub- 
bles  rose  fast,  and  I  savi  the  Bre  take  from  general  Washington's  light, 
and  descend  from  thence  to  the  surface  of  the  water,  in  a  similar  tuun- 
ner  as,  when  a  lighted  candle  is  held  so  as  to  touch  the  smoke  of  a  cnn- 
dlc  just  blown  out,  the  smoke  will  take  fire,  and  the  fire  will  descinil 
and  light  up  the  candle.  This  was  demonstrative  evidence,  that  what 
was  called  setting  the  riv^r  on  fire,  was  setting  the  inflammable  air  on 
fire  that  arose  out  of  the  mud. 

I  mentioned  this  experiment  to  Mr.  Rittenhousc,  of  Philadelphia, 
the  next  time  I  went  to  that  city ;  and  our  opinion  on  the  case  was,  that 
the  air  or  vapour  that  issued  from  any  combustible  matter  (vegetable 
or  otherwise)  that  underwent  a  dissolution  and  decomposition  of  its 
parts,  either  by  fire  or  water,  in  a  confined  place,  so  as  not  to  blaze, 
would  bo  inflammable,  and  would  become  name  whenever  it  came  it> 
contact  with  flame. 

In  order  to  determine  if  this  was  the  case,  wc  filled  up  the  brecclr 
of  a  gun  barrel  about  five  or  six  inches  with  saw-dust,  and  the  upper 
part  with  dry  snnd  to  the  top,  and,  after  spiking  up  the  touch-hole, 
put  the  breech  into  a  smith  s  furnace,  and  kept  it  red  hot,  so  as  to 
consume  the  saw-dust ;  the  sand,  of  consequence,  would  prevent  any 
blaze.  We  appplicd  a  lighted  candle  to  the  mouth  of  the  barrel ;  as 
the  first  vapour  that  A^iw  off  would  be  humid,  it  extinguished  the  can- 
dle ;  but,  after  applying  the  candle  three  or  four  times,  the  vapour 
that  issued  out  began  to  flash.  We  then  tied  a  bladder  over  the  mouth 
of  the  barrel,  which  the  vapour  soon  filled,  and  then,  tying  a  string 
round  the  neck  of  the  bladder,  above  the  muzzle,  took  the  bladder  off. 

As  we  could  not  conveniently  make  experiments  upon  the  vapour 
while  it  was  in  the  bladder,  the  next  operation  was,  to  get  it  into  a 
phial ;  for  ttiis  purpose,  we  took  a  phial  of  about  three  or  four  ounces, 
filled  it  with  water,  put  a  cork  slightly  into  it,  and,  introducing  it  into 
the  neck  of  the  bladder,  worked  the  cork  out,  by  getting  hold  of  it 
through  the  bladder,  into  which  the  water  then  emptied  itself,  and  the 
air  in  the  bladder  ascended  into  the  phial ;  we  then  put  the  cork  into 
the  phial,  and  took  it  from  the  bladder.  It  was  now  in  a  convenient 
condition  for  experiment. 

We  put  a  lighted  match  into  the  phial,  and  the  air  or  vapour  in  it 
blazed  up  in  the  manner  of  a  chimney  on  fire.  We  extinguished  it  >.'ro 
or  three  times,  by  stopping  the  mouth  of  the  phial ;  and  putting  the 
lighted  match  to  it  again,  it  repeatedly  took  nre,  till  the  vapour  was 
spent,  and  the  phial  became  filled  with  the  atmospheric  air. 

These  two  experiments — that,  in  which  some  combustible  substance 
(branches  and  leaves  of  tre^)  had  been  decomposed  by  water,  fn  the 
jnud,  and  this,  where  the  decomposition  had  been  produced  by  fire, 
without  blazing,  show,  that  a  species  of  air   injurious  to  life,  when 


.filiation  with 


BSSAY  ON    YELLOW    FEVEn. 


£<I9 


»akeii  into  the   Iung«,    may  be  generated  from   substances  which    in 
thernielves  ore  harmless. 

It  is  by  iiienns  similar  to  these,  that  charcoal,  whieli  is  made  by 
fire  without  blazing,  emits  a  vanour  deHtructive  to  life.  1  now  coine  ti> 
apply  these  cases,  and  the  rea8(»ning  deduced  therefrom,  to  account 
for  the  cause  of  the  yellow  fever.* 

First,  The  yellow  fever  is  not  n  disorder  produced  by  the  climate 
naturally,  or  it  would  alway.s  have  been  here  in  the  hot  months.  The 
climate  is  the  same  now  as  it  was  fifty  or  a  hundred  years  a^o.  Thero 
was  on  yellow  fever  then  ;  and  it  is  only  within  the  last  twelve  years 
that  such  a  disorder  has  been  known  in  America. 

Secondly,  The  low  grounds  on  the  s'-oresof  the  rivers,  at  the  cities, 
where  the  yellow  fever  is  anni'i'lly  ger  "atHvl  and  continues  about  a 
months  without  spcniiinj?,  were  not  fia!  jev-  to  that  disorder  in  their 
natural  state,  or  the  Indiai;-  would  Imve  foJ's>:tf.en  them;  whereas,  they 
were  the  parts  most  fre(}tit,;i  ed '.»v  t\o  i-;diunfi  in  all  teijsons  of  the 
year,  cm  account  of  fislniifr.  Th.'  reau^t  from  tlif"  cases  is,  that  tlio 
yellow  fever  is  p-odiiccd  by  g  .joo  new  nircumstan;.*'  not  common  to 
the  country  in  it;  natural  sti'Uf ,  and  ii.o  quesiir"  jj,  v!i;*t  is  that  uiMr 
circumstance? 

It  may  be  said  that  e*"-'ry  thint  done  by  iJ.e  wtiit.'peopl.v  tuico  their 
settlement  in  thccoii;(ir_y,  sue!)  as  ^juiKUng  '.(nvnr,  c'.jv'iiir.jj  IiikIs  level- 
ling hills,  and  filling  up  vdlh:ys,  iso  r- h- cirounscajice  •  bvt  tlit;  yr.Kow 
fever  dots  not  accompany  'iny  of  ih:f.e  now  cifivini/nsutc  •:-  No  alter- 
ation made  on  the  dry  land  produeet>  Or?  yc'iow  Tc  .e!"  :  wa  niu  i  UuTt  • 
fore,  look  to  some  other  ne-i  i:ircun;,stanoes;  anJ  we  comt  run-  >.u  i,u)iv 
that  have  taken  place  between  wee  anti  dry,  bf  iwcon  hinl  ar-d  W4a<»r. 

The  shores  of  the  rivers  at  New  \o!rk,  nnditlsoat  Fhiladtlpbiii,  hive, 
on  account  of  the  vast  increase  of  con  '<iercc\  and  I'or  the  ''.r  o  ofr  ak- 
ing  wharves,  undergone  greut  and  n.pid  tflu^iatious  from  th  sir  natural 
state,  within  a  few  years;  and  it  jr  or!)  in  such  parts  of  ti'L- :l>ore8, 
where  those  alterations  have  taken  place,  that  tin;  yi  ilow  fever  has  been 
produced.  The  parts  where  little  or  no  diUr  .ti  jn  ^:2•^  been  made, 
lithcr  on  the  East  or  North  River,  and  which  cominue  in  their  natural 
ftate,  or  nearly  so,  do  not  produce  ihe  yellow  fc  oi  I'tie  fdct,  there* 
fore,  points  to  the  caufe. 

Besides  several  new  streets  gaincJ  from  the  river  by  embankment, 
there  are  upwards  of  ei^^iUy  ntw  Ahurvos  Jnr.de  since  the  war,  and  the 
much  greater  part  within  thi*  last  ctu  or  twelve  years  ;  the  consequence' 
of  which  has  been,  *I'"i  g.i>at  quantities  of  filth,  or  combustible  mat- 
ter, deposited  ir.  th.'  muddy  buttrMU  of  the  river  contiguous  to  lh« 
shore,  and  which  ,»;'oduced  no  ill  eifect  while  exposed  to  the  air,  and 
washed  tvii-e  every  twenty-four  hours  by  the  tide  water,  have  been 
covered  ov!.r  several  fet-t  deep  with  new  earth,  and  pent  up,  and  the 
(i-Je  excluded.  It  is  in  thcbe  places,  and  in  these  only,  that  the  yel- 
low fever  is  produced. 

Having  thus  shown,  from  the  circumstances  of  the  case,  that  the 
cause  of  the  yellow  fever  is  in  the  place  where  it  -makes  its  appear- 
ance, or  rather  in  the  ocrnicioujs  vapour  issuing  therefrom,  I  go  on  to 

•  Tlie  author  docs  not  mean  to  infer,  that  the  inflammable  air,  or  carburottcil  hy  hc<^ 
gen  gas,  is  the  cause  of  tlie  yellow  fever  ;  but  that  perhaps  it  enters  into  oux'  ;  a  j. 
.bination  with  miasm  generated  ia  low  grouuds,  whidi  produces  tlie  diu-ase. 


'  ( 


rk 


l'.- 


600 


APPENDIX,    yo.    1. 


jthow  a  method  of  constructing  wharves,  where  wharves  are  yet  to  hn 
constructed,  as  on  tlie  shore  of  the  East  River,  at  Corlaer's  Hook, 
and  olso  on  the  North  River,  that  will  not  occasion  the  yellow  fever, 
and  which  may  also  point  out  a  method  of  tenjoving  it  from  places  al- 
ready infected  with  it.  Instead,  then,  of  embanking  out  the  river,  and 
raising  solid  wharves  of  earth  on  the  mud  bottom  of  the  shore,  the 
better  method  would  be  to  construct  wharves  on  arches,  built  of  stone. 
The  tide  will  then  flow  in  under  the  arch,  by  which  means  the  shore 
and  the  muddy  bottom  will  be  washed  and  kept  clean,  as  if  they  were 
in  their  natural  state  without  wharves. 

\Mien  wharves  are  constructed  on  the  shore  lengthways,  that  is, 
without  cutting  the  shore  up  into  slips,  arches  can  easily  be  turned,  be- 
cause arches  joining  each  other  lengthways,  serve  as  buttments  to  each 
other ;  but  when  the  shore  is  cut  up  into  slips,  there  can  be  no  buttments. 
In  this  case  wharves  can  be  formed  on  stone  pillars,  or  wooden  piles 
planked  over  on  the  top.  In  either  of  these  case.e,  the  space  underneath 
will  be  a  commodious  shelter  or  harbour  for  small  boati,  which  can  go 
in  and  come  out  always,  except  at  low  water,  and  be  secure  from 
storms  and  injuries.  This  method,  besides  preventing  the  cause  of  the 
yellow  fever,  which  I  think  it  will,  will  render  the  wharves  more  pro- 
ductive than  the  present  method,  because  of  the  space  preserved  with- 
in the  wharf. 

I  offer  no  calculation  of  the  expence  of  constructing  wliarves  on  arch- 
es or  piles  ;  but  on  a  general  view,  I  believe  they  will  not  be  so  expen- 
sive as  the  present  method.  A  very  great  part  of  the  expence  of  mak- 
ing solid  wharves  of  earth  is  occasioned  by  the  carriage  of  material, 
which  will  be  greatly  reduced  by  the  methods  here  proposed,  and  still 
more  so,  were  the  arches  to  hit  constructed  of  cast  iron  blocks.  I  sup- 
pose that  one  ton  of  cast  iron  blocks  would  go  as  far  in  the  construc- 
tion of  an  arch  as  twenty  tons  of  stone. 

If,  by  constructing  wharves  in  such  manner  that  the  tide  water  can 
wash  the  shore  and  bottom  of  the  river  contiguous  to  the  shore,  as  thoy 
are  washed  in  their  natural  condition,  the  yellow  fever  can  be  prevent- 
ed from  generating  in  places  where  wharves  are  yet  to  be  constructed, 
it  may  point  out  a  method  of  removing  it,  at  least  by  degrees,  from 
places  already  infected  with  it,  which  will  he,  by  *)pening  the  wharves 
in  two  or  three  places  in  ciich,  and  letting  the  tide  water  pass  through. 
The  p.'rts  opened  can  be  plai»ked  over,  so  as  not  to  prevent  the  use  of 
the  wharf. 

In  taking  up  and  treating  this  subject,  I  have  considered  it  as  be- 
longing to  natural  philosophy,  rather  than  medicinal  art ;  and  there- 
fore 1  say  nothing  about  the  treatment  of  the  disease  after  it  takes 
place.    1  leave  that  part  to  those  whose  profession  it  is  to  «tudy  it. 

No.  11. 

Letter  to  a  Member  of  Parliament  on  the  Orders  in   Council,  and  the 

American   Trade. 

IN  the  present  eventful  period  of  our  history,  when  a  v\ar  administra- 
tion seeuis  determined,  by  every  act  of  aggression  and  folly,  to  drive 
their  cou.ntry  to  the  utmost  extremity  of  distress,  I  consider  it  the  duty 
»*r  every  man  who  loves  his  country,  to  contribute  his  utmost  efforts  tc 


LETTER   TO   A   MEMBER   OF  PARLIAMENT. 


601 


«ave  the  state.  I  think  I  cannot  better  use  mine  than  by  a  communica* 
tion  to  you,  selecting  for  my  subject  the  relations  between  this  coun- 
try and  America,  f  prefer  making  this  communication  to  a  public 
character,  because  he  has  the  powder  of  making  the  best  use  of  the  facts 
communicated.  I  prefer  making  it  to  you,  because  you  appear  to  me  to 
stand  on  independent  [ground ;  I  prefer  the  subject  of  our  relations 
with  America,  because  I  conceive  it  to  be  of  the  greatest  national  im- 
portance, and  but  indifferently  understood ;  and  because,  having  re« 
cently  been  in  that  country,  1  consider  myself  pretty  well  acquainted 
with  it. 

You  are,  of  course,  sufficiently  aware  of  the  great  importance  of  the 
trade  between  the  two  countries.  The  supply  of  nearly  six  millions  of 
people  with  manufactures  of  every  description,  must  be  an  object  of 
great  consequence  to  a  manufacturing  country  ;  and  it  is  peculiarly  be- 
neficial to  this  country,  from  the  facility  with  which  it  can  be  carried  on. 
The  inhabitants  of  America  speak  the  same  language  as  ourselves ; 
they  have  the  same  manners  and  habits ;  they  are  in  some  measure 
governed  by  the  same  laws;  and  the  articles  they  have  to  give  in  ex- 
change are  exactly  such  as  we  want. 

Now,  sir,  it  is  my  opinion,  that  this  commerce  can  not  only  be  car- 
ried  on,  but  even  increased  to  a  much  greater  extent,  unless  it  be  in- 
terrupted by  our  own  folly.  I  speak  with  confidence,  from  what  I 
know  of  the  people  and  government  of  the  United  States,  tiiat  they 
are  so  much  disposed  to  peace,  and  a  cultivation  of  their  trade,  that 
nothing  but  the  most  imperiras  necessity  will  farce  them  to  relinquish 
their  commerce  with  this  country,  far  less  to  enter  into  a  state  of  hos- 
tility;  but  I  am  afraid  that  some  of  our  late  acts  will  drive  them  to  the 
former  of  these  cruel  alternatives,  and  there  is  no  saying  how  soon  the 
present  ministry  may  drive  them  to  the  latter  also. 

It  would  appear,  however,  that  the  ministry  act  upon  no  hostile  di  - 
sign  towards  America ;  but  it  is  sufficiently  obvious,  that  they  havo 
formed  a  very  mistaken  idea  of  the  American  character;  and  it  is  no 
fuvourable  omen,  that  their  hireling  writers  dwell  with  peculiar  plea- 
sure upon  every  topic  calculated  to  give  an  uiuaiourable  opinion  of 
that  country,  towards  which  they  have  in  many  instances  used  the  lan- 
guage of  insult.  They  are  supported,  too,  by  a  writer,  who,  hy  a 
knack  at  making  bold  assertions,  and  of  supporting  them  by  low  bul- 
lying language,  h;js  acquired  a  very  consideral)le  degree  of  celebrity  i.i 
this  country,  who,  though  a  man  whose  avowed  tenets  of  pdliticiU 
faith  hold  him  up  to  public  destc'^tation,  ind  whose  rancour  ar,aiii«r. 
America,  the  cause  of  which  is  well  known,  subjects  ev(3ry  thin{»  he 
has  to  say  upon  that  country  to  at  least  a  considerabL*  dcirree  of  sus- 
picion ;  yet,  having  resided  there,  he  certainly  is  looked  up  to  for  in- 
formation.  The  boldness  of  his  assertions  makes  tfiein  pass  current 
with  many,  and  it  is  probable  his  opinions  have  a  '\u\q  ."pread  in  th<i 
country  ;  for  I  fiave  often  h<ard  very  strange  and  incjusisteiit  doctrines 
held  by  very  well-informed  people,  and  him  quoted  as  the  authority.* 

Now,  in  opposition  to  all  that  sucit  writers  have  said,  or  can  say, 
against  the  people  and  government  of  the  United  Slates,  I  can  affiim, 
from  actual  observation,    that  they   possess  a   suporiority   over  every 

•  The  wTitcr  alliidefl  to  has  since  nbjuved  liis  error,  ujid  h.is  miule  umplc  rcparatio'i  to 
<lie  vaust  oi  truth  and  justic«. 

To' 


•i  ki 


I  =  Jill 


m 


ti02  APPKNDIX,    NO.    II. 

Other  people  and  government  in  many  particulars ;  and  because  a  re- 
view of  some  of  them  is  necessary  to  illustrate  my  subject,  I  shall,  as 
briefly  as  possible,  notice  a  few  of  the  most  important. 

1st.  The  laws  place  all  the  citizens  on  a  footing  of  perfect  equality. 
There  are  no  laws  of  entail,  or  of  primogeniture,  to  divide  the  people; 
and  hence  the  mass  of  them  are  rtardy  independent  republicans,  cuU 
tivators  of  the  soil  they  possess  Few  are  so  rich  as  to  be  abovo  the 
necessity  of  labour,  and  few  are  so  poor  as  to  be  in  a  state  of  depend- 
ence ;  fewer  still  live  on  charity.  I  resided  in  the  country  twelve 
months,  and  travelled  through  twelve  of  the  states,  comprehending  a 
range  of  IMOO  miles,  and  in  all  that  time  I  never  saw  a  beggar  but 
one ;  he  was  from  this  country,  and  it  turned  out,  in  the  sequel,  that 
he  was  an  impostor,  and  not  really  in  want. 

2J.  Public  education  is  cherished  by  the  people  and  government.  It 
ivill,  no  doubt,  give  you  pleasure  that  I  dwell  on  this  article.  It  is  ne- 
cessary, for  the  illustration  of  the  subject,  to  notice  the  subdivision 
of  the  country.  Each  state  is  divided  into  counties,  and  many  of  these 
are  subdivided  into  townships  of  six  miles  square,  being  a  division 
somewhat  similar  to  our  parishes.  In  the  charters  of  incorporation  of 
tlicso  townships,  provision  is  generally  made  for  the  instruction  of 
youth,  by  appropriations  of  land  and  other  funds,  and  the  schools  are 
mostly  all  free.  Besides  this,  there  are  numerous  colleges,  academies, 
and  pi^liiic  libvaries,  supported  partly  by  the  states,  and  partly  by  ia- 
ilividuuls;  and  these  seminaries  are  rapidly  increasing.  I  shall  further 
illustrate  the  subject  by  taking  the  states  m  their  order. 

[Mere  followed  an  account  of  the  state  of  education  throughout 
the  country  ;  but  as  this  h  ts  been  inserted  in  the  foregoing  woric,  it  is 
liere  omitted.] 

I  have  dwelt  long  upon  this  subject,  because  I  judge  it  of  great  im- 
portance, and  because  it  is  very  generally  believed,  that,  in  point  of 
education  the  Americans  are  far  behind  tHc  British, 

The  case  is  quite  the  reverse, — they  are  far  before  them, — I  mean 
the  mass  of  the  people,  I  did  not  meet  .with  a  single  native  American, 
above  12  years  of  age,  who  could  not  both  read  and  write,  and  they 
are,  in  general,  a  very  intelligent  people.  With  politics  they  are  well 
acquainted,  and  there  are  more  newspapers  read  in  America,  in  pro* 
portion  to  the  inhabitants,  than  in  any  country  in  the  world. 

I  shall  confirm  this  statement  by  an  extract  from  Morse's  An^erican 
Geography,  article  New  Enghnd.  "In  New  England,  learning  is 
more  generally  diffused  among  ail  ranks  than  in  any  other  part  of  the 
globe;  arising  from  the  excellent  establishment  bf  schools  in  almost 
every  township  and  other  smaller  districts.  In  these  schools,  which 
are  generally  supported  by  a  public  tax,  and  under  the  direction  of  a 
ichool  committee,  are  taught  the  elements  of  reading,  writing,  and 
arithtnetic;  and  in  the  more  wealthy  townships,  they  are  beginning 
to  introduce  the  higher  brandies,  viz.  grammar,  geography,  &c.  A 
very  valuable  source  of  informatitm  to  the  people  is  the  newspapers, 
of  which  not  less  than  30,000  are  printed  every  week  in  New  England, 
and  they  circulate  in  almost  every  town  and  villagy  in  the  country  " 
In  a  note  he  adds — "  According  to  an  accurate  estimate  made  10  years 
ago,  it  appears  that  no  less  than  79,000  newspapers  were  printed  week. 
ly  in  the  American  states,  which  in  a  year  would  amount  to  4-  mil- 
aoi):$." — There  is  ||Uud  rwasou  to  believe  that  the  number  has  sincqi, , 


^to,  are  no 


LETTER   TO   A   MEMBER   OF   PARLIAMENT. 


60S 


uearly  doubled.  He  goes  od — <<  A  person  of  mature  age  who  cannot 
both  read  and  write  is  rarely  to  be  found.  By  means  of  the  general  es- 
tablishment of  schools,  the  extensive  circulation  of  newspapers,  and  the 
consequent  spread  of  learning,  every  township  throu;/hout  the  country 
is  furnished  with  m*^.!/ capable  of  conducting  the  affairs  of  tlu-ir  town 
with  judgment  and  dis.-retion.  Tliese  men  are  the  channels  of  political 
information  to  the  iv'vi'er  class  of  the  people;  if  such  a  ciuss  nuiy  br. 
said  to  exist  in  New  England,  where  every  man  tliinks  himself  as  good 
as  his  neighbour,  and  believes  that  all  mankind  ought  to  possess  cquiil 
riglits." 

3d.  In  religious  matters  there  is  neither  toleration  nor  intoleration  ; 
bat  universal  right  of  conscience.  The  constitution  of  t!ie  United  States 
provides  equally  against  forming  any  religiousestablisliment,  and  against 
any  interference  with  the  free  exercise  of  religion.  "  Keligion  is  tiiere 
placed  on  its  proper  basis,  without  the  unwarrantable  aid  of  tiie  civil 
power,  supported  alone  by  its  own  evi(ience,  by  the  lives  of  its  profes- 
sors, and  by  the  Almighty  care  of  its  divine  Author;"  and  every  man 
may  freely  exercise  his  religious  opinions,  be  they  what  they  may,  with- 
out at  all  mtcrfering  wiia  his  rights  as  a  citizen. 

4th.  The  government  of  the  country  is  in  the  hands  of  the  paoplo, 
America  is  what  is  called  a  Federal  Republic.  Each  state  has  a  legis- 
lative and  executive  government  to  manage  internal  concerns ;  and 
all  the  states,  joined  together  for  mutual  convenience  and  security, 
form  the  general  or  federal  government.  It  consists  of  the  house  of  le- 
presentatives,  senate,  and  the  president,— elected  by  the  people;  and 
to  them  certain  powers  are  delegated  by  the  several  states :  among  o- 
thers,  the  formation  and  regulation  of  ail  foreign  relations.  The  federal 
revenue  consists  at  present  principally  of  a  tax  on  imports. 

From  hence  it  will  obviously  appear  that  the  United  States  possess  a 
firm  government.  The  good  education  of  the  people  enables  them  to 
form  a  correct  opinion  of  their  rights;  and  their  frequent  elections  af- 
ford them  the  necessary  opportunity  to  assert  tueni.  There  is  no  pri^- 
vileged  aristocracy  to  corrupt  them,  and  there  aire  no  hireling  priests  to 
mislead  them.  The  government  and  the  peupJe  can  have  no  separate 
interest.  Peace  is  the  interest  of  the  country  ;  and  tiie  government  will 
never  declare  war  unless  they  have  goud  grounds  for  it.  At  all  events, 
any  war  undertaken  by  the  United  States  must  be  sanctioned  by  the  peo* 
pie ;  and  in  my  opinion  they  reason  very  widely  who  suppose  the  go- 
vernment will  rush  blindly  into  a  war  without  such  sanction.  Indeed, 
I  think  I  may  venture  to  predict  that  while  the  present  form  of  govern- 
ment remains,  no  war  will  ever  be  undertaken  by  the  United  States  but 
in  self-defence ;  and  if  that  should  become  nt  cessary,  it  will  be  strong 
vigorous,  and  efficient. 

They  are,  however,  differently  represented  here.  We  generally  sum 
up  the  whole  of  the  executive  government  in  the  person  of  Mr.  Jeffer- 
son; and  because  he  is  not  sutticiently  subservient  to  our  views,  he  must, 
forsooth,  be  under  the  influence  of  bonaparte.  It  is  really  astonishing, 
by  the  way,  to  observe  the  amazing  power  which  many  of  our  pu.iticians 
ascribe  to  this  man.  They  talk  and  reason  as  if  no  circumstance  cjuid 
happen  on  the  face  of  the  earth  in  the  least  contrary  to  t!ic  designs  of 
the  powers  that  be  in  this  country,  but  he  must  he  the  instigator,  I  can 
assure  them,  however,  that  Mr.  Jefftrson,  and  those  who  act  along  with 
liiva,  are  no  more  under  the  iuilu^ace  of  Bonaparte  than  I  aui.     i  heu' 


■1  I 


%■ 


604f 


APPEKDIX,   NO.  If. 


maxim  is  to  cultivate  a  pood  understanding  with  all  the  nations  of  thf 
earth — to  quarrel  and  to  ally  with  none. 

But  they  will  only  cultivate  a  good  understanding  with  other  powers 
upon  a  footing  of  perfect  equality.  If  they  are  inclined  to  do  as  they 
would  be  done  by,  they  have  a  right  to  expect  the  name  treatment  in 
return.  Thia  is  all  that  honest  men  can  wish  for  ;  but  I  am  afraid  that 
our  present  ministry  are  not  inclined  to  recognize  this  simple  but  sub- 
stantial basis. 

The  disputes  between  America  and  this  country  have  been  of  lung 
standing;  but  the  ground  of  quarrel  was  much  enlarged  in  consrquence 
of  certain  spoliations  on  the  American  trade  in  1805.     It  would  be  te* 
dious  to  notice  all  the  grounds  of  complaint;  I  shall,   therefore,  select 
one  instance,  singular  in  its  nature,  and  extremely  offensive  in  its  ope- 
fation.     In  the  year  alluded  to,  several  of  our  ships  of  war  were  station- 
ed in  the  mouth  of  the  Misi^i8sippi,  to  intercept  tiie  Spanish  vessels  in 
the  navigation  of  that  river,  to  the  great  annoyance  of  the  trade  of  New 
Orleans ;  while  these  very  ships  of  war  had  special  orders  to  allow  Spa- 
nish vessels  to  pans  and  repass  freely  to  and  from  our  own  West  India 
islands.    This,  among  other  circumstances,  led  to  the  non-importation 
act.     A  short  time  after,  a  naval  force  was  atationed  oif  the  entrance  to 
"New  York  harbour,  and  intercepted  every  thing  that  came  in  their  way. 
But  their  conduct  was  peculiarly  offensive  in  firing  upon  coasting  ves- 
sels ;  and  at  length  the  death  of  Pierce,  who  was  killed  by  a  shot  from 
the  Leander,  lighted  up  a  flame  throughout  the  whole  continent.  Thi:^ 
wanton  act  of  aggression  has  been  palliated  and  frittered  away  by  writers 
on  this  side  of  the  water ;  but  having  examined  into  all  the  circumstan- 
ces of  the  case,  I  have  no  hesitation  in  saying  that  had  a  similar  circum- 
stance occurred  to  one  of  our  vessels,  upon  our  own  shores,  ample  re< 
paration  must  have  been  made,  or  war  would  have  been  the  inevitable 
consequence. 

Fortunately,  Mr.  Pitt  was  by  this  time  off  the  stage,  and  the  Ameri- 
cam  had  a  rational  and  pacific  administration  to  deal  with ;  who,  I  have 
no  doubt,  would  have  healed  the  breachMong  before  this  time,  had  they 
remained  in  power.     I  know,  to  a  certainty,  tliat  the  American  govern- 
ment had  confidence  in  them  ;  for  in  a  conversation  which  I   had  wit'i 
the  president,  in  October,  1806,  he  expressed  himself  to  that  effect;  ami 
he  observed,  in  particular,  that  Mr.  Fox  was  a  man  of  the  most  liberal 
and  enbghtened  policy — a  friend  to  his  country,  and  to  the  human  race. 
But  in  an  evil  hour  for  Britain,  and  for  the  world,  the  present  ministry 
got  into  power  by  avowedly  trampling  upon  the  religions  rights  of  man. 
They  are  said  to  be  energetic,  and  they  have  certainly  "  exerted  their 
energies"  with  a  vengeance.    They  have  quarrelled  with  nearly  all  Eu- 
rope ;  and,  not  content  with  that,  they  seem  fully  determined,  by  the 
folly  of  their  measures,  to  force  America  into  a  quarrel  also.    I  pass 
over  the  foul  act  on  the  Chesapeak,  because  it  appears  to  have  been  un- 
authorized, and  might,  taken  singly,  have  been  easily  adjusted.   But  the 
late  orders  in  council  appear  to  me  to  be  the  most  impolitic  measure 
that  ever  this  or  any  other  government  adopted  towards  a  neutral  and 
friendly  power.    America  cannot  possibly  act  upon  the  principle  whicli 
theseordtrsrccognizewithoutsurrendering  her  independence  asanation, 
and  violating  her  neutrality  ;  in  which  case  it  is  very  obvious  she  would 
immediately  have  a  quarrel  with  France  and  her  dependencies:  andtliat 
■lie  will  take  care  to  avoid.    Indeed,  I  have  !ittle  doubt  but  one  great 


,  »j 


LETTER   TO   A   MEMBER   OF   PARLIAMENT. 


60.1 


Dfthe 

lowerft 
» they 
ent  in 
id  that 
It  8ub- 

f  long 
qu€ncc 
1  be  te- 
select 
its  ope- 
Btation- 
'ssels  in 
of  New 
9\v  Spa- 
it  India 
ortation 
•ance  to 
leirway. 
ting  ves- 
[lot  from 
tnt.  This 
y  writers 
cumstan- 
r  circum- 


Ireason  for  passing  those  hateful  orders  was  to  bring  the  question  to  thut 
yery  issue->~to  force  America  into  a  war  with  France. 

Still,  however,  I  do  not  dread  an  immediate  war  with  America.  Tiie 
ministry,  impolitic  as  I  esteem  them,  do  not  appear  to  have  fonnt'd  any 
hostile  design  a^inst  that  country  ;  hut  much  evil  may  result  from  tlicir 
domineering  bullying  spirit   before   matters  arc  adjusted  :  and  ao  iliey 
appear  to  be  totally  ignorant  of  the  American  character,  tliere  is  uo  say- 
ing how  far  they  may  carry  their  ♦'  vigorous  measures,"  if  the  Americans 
stand  firm  ;  and  this  they  assuredly  will.     From  what  I  know  of  ihu  A- 
merican  character,  I  am  confident  they  never  will  submit  to  the  res  trio* 
tions  we  have  been  imposing  upon  their  trade  for  years  ;  and  in  particu- 
lar, they  never  will  submit  to  these  orders  in  council.  What!  allow  their 
ships  to  be  forced  into  this  country,  searched,  taxed,  and  licenced,  be- 
fore they  proceed  to  France  or  her  dependencies!  They  are  truly  bold 
politicians  who  have  dared  to  suppose  they  would.     It  has  been  'I'lcged 
that  the  French  governmenthave  forced  us  to  adopt  tliese  measures  by 
their  blockading  decrees ;  but  those  who  make  the  allegation  complete- 
ly overlook  the  policy  of  France  towards  America  :  for  no  sooner  nere 
these  blockading  decrees  issued,  than  the   French  government  avowed 
in  the  most  distinct  terms  that  they  had  no   reference  whatever  to  the 
trade  between  America  and  Britain ;  and  that  the  existing  treaty  be- 
tween France  and  America  should  have  full  effect.    They  not  only  con- 
tinued to  act  upon  this  principle  up  to  the  date  of  our  orders  in  council, 
but  they  gave  orders  to  Spain  to  release  certain  American  vese^els  which 
were  carried  into  that  country  in  virtue  of  similar  decrees,  alleging  that 
the  Spanish  goverpment  had  misconceived  their  meaning.    If  further 
proof  be  wanted,  it  is  only  necessary  to  look  at  the  rate  of  insurance  on 
American  and  British  vessels  for  twelve  months  back. 

But  whatever  the  French  government  intended  to  do  before,  it  is  very 
Certain  they  will    resort  to  most  "  vigorous  measures"  now,  for  they 
have  already  passed  decrees  not  only  to  set  aside  the  effects  of  our  orders 
in  council,  but  they  proceed  a  step  farther,  and  declare  that  if  American 
vessels  even  suffer  themselves  to  he  searched  by  our  ships  of  war,  a  mea- 
sure which  they  cannot  l.elp,  they  will  be  duuationalized,  and  liable   to 
confiscation:  so  that  between  the  two  contending  nations,  the  Ameri- 
can trade  is  brought  into  a  more  awkward  situation  than  has  ever  been 
endured  by  any  neutral  power.    Oar  orders  in  council  are  the  primary 
cause ;  and  the  remaining  inquiry  is :  What  is  likely  to  be  the  conse- 
quence ?     Will  the  present   ministry   /evoke   them  ?  No  :  they  have 
vaunted  &,.  much  about  their  energetic  measures  that  it  would  be  folly 
to  expect  it.     Will  the    American  government  submit  to  them?     No: 
the  independent   spirit  of  the  country  forbids  it.    Will  France  and  her 
dependencies  acquiesce  in  them  ?    No :  Bonaparte  does  not  possess  h 
spirit  sufficiently  accommodating   to  warrant  us  in  thinking  they  will. 
The  most  probable  conjecture,  therefore,  is  that  America  will  suspend 
her  trade  with  Europe,  throw  herself  upon  the  defensive,  and  in  that 
posture  remain  till  the  fighting  folks  of  Europe  come  to  their  senseii. 
When  that  will  be,  God  knows  ;  but  I  am  much  afraid  it  will  not  be 
while  the  present  administration  remain  in  power.     I  attribute  the  ac- 
cumulated distress  which  is  pressing  upon  my  country  to  the  false  policy 
which  has  been  acted  upon  for  many  years  past;  and  I  am  firmly  per- 
suaded that  we  shall  never  enjoy  repose  nor  prosperity  till  her  counciU 
are  swayed  by  men  "  who  will  do  to  others  as  they  would  be  done  by.' 


i  ;•  i 


!l 


If! 


l't-1 

m 


m 


G06 


AFPENDIX,   SO.   It. 


This,  it  is  my  Brm  belief,  the  preaent  ministry  never  will  do:  and,  there- 
fore, I  sincerely  hope  that  God,  in  mercy  to  mankind,  will  be  pleased  to 
remove  them  soon,  and  that  he  will  substitute  in  their  place  men  of  up> 
lightness  and  integrity,  who  fear  God  and  hate  covetousness. 

I  am,  &c. . 

Jauuart/, '25,  \h08.  J.  M. 

P.  S.  Jan  27.— Since  the  foregoing  letter  was  written,  advice  has 
been  received,  that  what  I  anticipated  has  partly  taken  place.  An  em- 
bargo has  been  laid  in  America,  and  it  is  easy  to  see  the  disastrous  con- 
sequences which  must  be  the  result*  However,  some  of  our  ener vet ic 
))oliticians  here  are  talking  very  big  about  reducing  the  Yankees  to  obe- 
dience. No  doL^bt  they  anticipate  that  glorious  sport  will  result  from 
an  American  war ;  and,  to  gratify  them,  perhaps  their  masters  may  car- 
ry matters  to  that  extremity.  If  they  do,  I  have  yet  one  piece  of  news 
in  store  for  them :  The  Americans  never  will  make  peace  until  the  free- 
dom of  the  seas  be  completely  and  unequivocally  recognized  as  a  basis! 

The  above  letter  was  sent  to  the  editor  of  a  periodical  paper  in  the 
month  of  June  following,  accompanied  by  the  subsequent  remarks : 

The  foregoing  letter  was  sent  to  a  member  of  parliament  in  the  month 
of  January  last,  and  a  copy  of  it  was  intended  to  be  sent  to  your  Review 
at  the  same  time ;  but  other  avocations  retarded  it  for  a  few  weeks,  and 
upon  reflection,  it  was  judged  adviseable  to  decline  the  publication  until 
the  new  system  adopted  towards  America  should  fully  develope  itself. 

I  am  now  sorry  to  find  that  the  most  of  my  conjectures,  unfavourable 
as  they  were,  are  short  of  the  reality.  I  find,  too,  that  they  are  corro- 
borated by  the  opinions  of  men  of  the  most  extensive  information  and 
judgment :  Mr.  baring's  very  able  pamphlet  upon  the  orders  in  council, 
and  Mr.  Brougham's  admirable  speech  upon  tne  same  subject,  in  sum- 
ming up  the  evidence  before  the  house  of  commons,  are  before  the  pub- 
lic, and  ought  to  be  read  by  every  commercial  man  in  these  kingdoms. 
Sanctioned  by  these,  and  by  the  evidence  of  facts,  further  reserve  is  un- 
necessary. We  cannot  stem  the  torrent,— but  we-  c»n  endeavour  to  o- 
pen  the  eyes  of  our  countrymen  to  see  the  sacrifice  which  many  of  them 
are  so  loudly  calling  for;  and  we  can  prepare  such  of  them  as  are  open 
to  conviction  for  what  will  infallibly  be  the  issue,  if  the  system  is  long 
persevered  in.  Necessity  may  compel  the  American  government  to  en- 
courage their  own  manufactures  for  the  present ;  and  if  they  be  once 
established,  justice  to  the  manufacturers  may  call  upon  it  to  protect 
them.  We  run  great  risk  of  losing  the  trade  with  the  United  States  of 
America  for  ever. 

Extractsjrom  the  Speech  of  Mr.  Brougham  before  the  House  of  Commons, 

April  1,  1808. 

SIR,  until  our  orders  in  council  were  issued,  it  appears  clearly,  with- 
out any  reasoning,  to  any  one  who  looks  at  the  subject,  that  there  was 
no  possibility  whatever  of  Bonaparte  putting  his  threats  into  execution. 

You  will  find  that  in  every  quarter  we  have,  by  our  orders  in  council, 
been  crossing  and  striking  in  with  the  enemy's  plans,  and  supplying 
those  deficiencies  in  their  orders  which  they  in  vain  attempted  to  make 
up.  You  will  see  too  what  the  result  has  been  ;  that  the  commerce  of 
this  once  flourishing  country  is  now  brought  down  to  a  state  lower  than 
it  ever  was  expected  to  reach,  even  by  the  most  gloomy  prophets*  in  the 
worst  times  of  our  history. 


EXTRACTS   FROM   BROUGHAM  S   SPEECH. 


607 


I  hold  in  my  hand  a  paper  ordered  to  be  printed  on  tho  l.'th  of  March, 
and  giving  the  .alue  of  imports  from  the  United  State's,  and  exports 
thither  for  the  years  \S05y  1806,  and  1807.  It  a-mearsfrom  this  docu- 
ment, that,  in  18()f>,  the  imports  from  America  to  Great  Britain  amount- 
ed to  4, 360,743/.  real  value,  and  that  the  exports  from  Great  Britain  to 
the  United  States,  in  the  same  year,  amounted  to  1 '2,865,  Wl/  ;  and,  by 
tho  average  of  those  three  years,  we  find  the  exports  to  the  United 
States  of  America  amount  to  upwards  of  twelve  millions  sterling,  and 
the  average  of  imports  to  upwards  of  four  millions  and  a  half;  and  as  the 
disproportion  is  increasing,  we  may  say,  in  general,  that  this  country  now 
exports  to  America  three  times  as  much  as  she  imports  from  thence. 

I  have  just  to  ask  the  house  this  one  question :  Are  you  willing  to  con- 
tinue exporting  to  America  twelve  millions  and  a  half  of  British  produce 
and  manufactures  ;  or  arc  you  not?  If  you  are,  how  are  you  to  be  paid 
for  it?  It  is  evident  that  you  only  receive  four  millions  direct  from  A- 
merica ;  therefore,  there  are  no  less  than  eight  millions  wantinj^,  and 
America,  we  all  know,  can  only  pay  you  by  trading  with  the  continent. 
If  you  wish  to  cut  up  that  trade  by  the  roots,  you  commit  that  old  so- 
lecism of  power,  as  my  lord  Bacon  so  well  calls  it — you  wish  to  com- 
mand the  end  ;  but  you  refuse  to  submit  to  the  means.  You  desire  to 
trade  with  the  United  States  of  America;  but  you  desire,  at  the  same 
time,  to  lop  oif  their  trade  with  the  enemy,  as  you  call  it,  which  is,  in  o- 
ther  words,  lopping  off'  the  very  commerce  which  you  carry  on  with 
your  enemy,  in  spite  of  the  war,  and  in  spite  of  himself,  by  which  you 
were  getting  eight  millions  sterling  each  year — by  which  you  were  ena- 
bled to  continue  a  trading  nation.  You  are  destroying  the  only  meansi 
by  which  America  can  pay  that  enormous  amount  to  you.  She  must 
have  the  opportunity  not  only  of  taking  your  goods,  but  of  exporting 
her  own,  in  order  to  pay  you.  She  must  not  only  export  her  own  goods — 
she  must  also  re-export  yours  with  them,  in  order  that  you  may  still 
send  them  to  your  enemy,  notwithstanding  the  hostilities  you  are  engag- 
ed in — notwithstanding  the  decrees  he  is  threatening  your  trade  with. 
So  stands  the  matter  in  argument,  or,  if  you  will,  in  theory  ;  and  I  now 
invite  this  house  to  say  whether  it  is  possible  for  them  to  conceive  any 
th'ng  more  precise  and  conclusive  than  the  evidence  which  has  been  ad- 
duced at  your  bar,  to  show  that  this  is  also  the  matter  of  fact,  from  the 
actual  history  of  our  trade  witii  America. 

Therefore,  Sir,  I  say  that  in  every  point  of  view  in  which  we  can  look 
at  this  new  system  of  commercial  regulation  we  see  but  one  effect,  name- 
ly, that  of  ruining  and  cuttuig  off',  root  and  brancli,  the  whole  ot  our 
traffic  with  the  United  States  of  America  ;  or,  in  other  words,  I  may 
say,  the  whole  of  our  foreign  trade. 

Sir,  this  short  and  summary  view  of  the  measure,  even  without  the 
aid  of  the  statement  so  satisfactorily  set  forth  in  the  evidence  before  you, 
will,  I  trust,  prove  sufliciontly  decis;iveto  entitle  me  to  leave  this  branch 
of  the  argument  without  one  further  comment ;  and  to  affirm  that  I  have 
completely  demonstrated  a  prop -.sition  at  tirst  sight  rtithcr  paradoxical  : 
that  England  has,  by  hat  own  measures,  eft'octualty,  strictly,  vigorously, 
couutersijjiied  the  enemy's  edict. 


inl 


I  1 


■mi 


«03 


ArrtNuix,  Ko   11/, 
No.  III. 


Tirmarks  on  the  Scottish  Peasantri^. 
Extracted  from  Curric's  edition  of  Bums'  Works. 

A  SLIGHT  acquaintance  with  the  peasantry  of  Scotland  will  snrvc 
to  convince  an  unprejudiced  observer  that  they  possess  a  degree  of  in- 
teliigetice  not  jrenerally  found  among  the  same  cl<t8S  of  men  in  the  o- 
the:  countries  of  Europe.  In  the  very  humblest  condition  of  the  Scot* 
tish  peacant,  every  one  can  read,  and  most  persons  are  more  or  less  skill* 
vd  in  writing  and  e.rithmetic ;  and  under  the  disguise  of  their  uncoutli 
appearance,  and  of  their  peculiar  manners  and  dialect,  a  stranger  will 
dincover  thff  t  they  possess  a  curiosity,  and  have  obtained  a  degree  of  in- 
formation, coiTPspoiuling  to  these  acquirements. 

Thrse  adviuu^ges  thoy  owe  to  the  legal  provision  made  !iy  the  par- 
liament ofScotland  in  1646,  for  the  establishment  of  a  school  in  every 
parish  throughout  the  kingdom,  for  the  express  purpose  of  educating  the 
poor  ;  a  law  which  may  challenge  comparison  with  any  act  of  legislation 
to  be  found  in  the  records  of  historv,  whether  we  consider  the  wisdom 
of  the  ends  in  view,  the  simplicity  of  the  means  employed,  or  the  pro- 
>  isions  made  to  render  these  means  effectual  to  their  purpose.  This  ex- 
cellent statute  was  repealed  on  the  accession  of  Charles  II.  in  1660,  to- 
gether with  all  the  other  laws  passed  during  the  commonwealth,  as  not 
bcinc  sanctioned  by  the  royal  assent.  It  slept  during  the  reigcs  of 
Charles  and  .lames;  but  was  re-enacted  precisely  in  the  same  terms  by 
the  Scottish  Parliament,  after  the  revolution  in  1696 ;  and  tins  is  tlit> 
hist  provision  on  the  subject.  Its  eHects  on  the  national  character  may 
be  considered  to  have  commenced  about  the  period  of  the  Union  ;  and 
doubtless  it  co-opeiatcd  with  the  peace  and  security  arising  from  that 
happy  event,  in  producing  the  extraordinary  change  in  favour  of  industry 
»nd  good  morals  which  the  character  of  the  common  people  of  Scotland 
has  since  undergone. 

The  church-establishment  of  Scotland  happily  coincides  with  the  in- 
stitution just  mentioned,  which  may  be  called  its  school-establishment. 
Tue  clergyman,  being  every  where  resident  in  his  particular  parish,  be- 
comes the  natural  patron  and  superintendant  of  the  parish-school :  and 
is  enabled  m  various  ways  to  promote  the  comfort  o^  the  teacher,  and 
the  proficiency  of  the  scholars.  The  teacher  himself  is  oflen  a  candi- 
duie  for  holy  orders,  who,  during  the  long  course  of  study  and  proba 
tion  required  in  the  Scottish  church,  renders  the  time  which  can  be  spar- 
ed from  his  professional  studies  useful  to  others  as  well  as  himself,  by 
ff^suniing  the  respectable  character  of  a  school-master.  It  is  common 
for  rhe  establiyhed  schools,  even  in  the  country  parishes  of  Scotland,  tJ 
enjoy  the  means  of  classical  instruction;  and  many  of  the  farmers,  and 
souie  even  of  the  cottagers,  subnut  to  much  privation  that  they  may  ob- 
tarn  for  one  of  their  sons,  at  least,  the  precarious  advantage  of  a  learned 
education  The  difficulty  to  be  surn.ounted  arises,  indeed,  not  from  the 
expense  of  instructing  their  children  ;  'out  from  the  charge  of  support- 
ing them  In  the  oontry  parish-schools  the  English  language,  writing, 
and  accounts  are  generally  taught  at  the  rate  of  siK  shillings,  and  Latia 
at  the  rate  often  or  twelve  shillings,  per  annum,  in  the  towns  the  pri* 
ces  are  somewhat  hi^^her. 

It  would  be  improper  in  this  plane  to  ir..j[uire  minutely  into  thede* 


REMARKS    OH    THE    SCOTTISH    PEASANTRY. 


609 


greos  of  initrucf  ion  received  at  these  seminaries,  or  to  attempt  any  pre- 
cise estimate  of  its  eH'ects  either  on  the  individuals  who  are  the  suhjecti 
of  this  instruction  or  on  the  community  to  wliich  they  belonjj.  Th»t  it 
h,  on  the  whole,  favourable  to  industry  and  morale,  thout^h  doubtless 
with  some  individual  exceptions,  seems  to  be  proved  by  the  most  strik- 
ing and  decisive  appearances;  and  it  is  equally  clear  that  it  is  the  cause 
of  that  spirit  of  emigration  and  of  ad>'enture  so  prevalent  among  the 
Scots.  Knowledge  has  by  Lord  Verulam  boen  denominated  power  ;  by 
others  it  has,  with  less  propriety,  been  denominiited  virtue  or  happi* 
ness :  we  may  with  confidence  consider  it  as  a  motion.  A  humun  being, 
in  proportion  us  he  is  informed,  has  his  wishes  enlarged,  as  well  as  tht; 
means  of  gratifying  those  wishes.  He  may  be  considered  as  taking 
within  the  sphere  of  his  vision  a  large  portion  of  the  globe  on  which  wu 
tread,  and  discovering  advantage  at  a  greater  distance  on  its  surface. 
His  desires  or  ambition,  once  excited,  are  stimulated  by  his  imagination, 
and  distant  and  uncertain  objects  giving  freer  scope  to  the  operation  of 
this  faculty,  oflen  acquire  in  the  mind  of  the  youthful  adventurer  an 
attraction  from  their  very  distance  and  uncertainty.  If,  therefore,  a 
greater  degree  of  instruction  be  given  to  the  peasantry  of  a  country 
comparatively  poor,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  other  countries  rich  in  na- 
tural and  acquired  advantages,  and  if  the  barriers  be  removed  that  kept 
them  separate,  emigration  trom  the  former  to  the  latter  will  take  place 
to  a  certain  extent,  by  laws  nearly  as  uniform  as  those  by  which  heat 
diifuses  itself  among  surrounding  bodies,  or  water  finds  its  level  when 
left  to  its  natural  course.  By  the  articles  of  the  Union  the  barrier  was 
broken  down  which  divided  the  two  British  nations,  and  knowledge  and 
poverty  poured  the  adventurous  natives  of  the  north  over  the  fertile 
plains  of  England,  and  more  especially  over  the  colonies  which  she  had 
settled  in  the  east  and  in  the  west.  The  stream  of  population  continues 
to  flow  from  the  north  to  the  south ;  for  the  causes  that  originally  im> 
pelled  it  continue  to  operate  :  and  the  richer  country  is  constantly  invi- 
gorated by  the  accession  of  an  informed  and  hardy  race  of  men,  educat- 
ed in  poverty,  and  prepared  for  hardship  and  danger,  patient  of  labour, 
and  prodigal  of  life. 

The  preachers  of  the  reformation  in  Scotland  were  disciples  of  Calvin, 
and  brought  with  them  the  temper  as  well  as  the  tenets  of  that  celebrat- 
heresiarch.  The  presbyterian  form  of  worship  and  of  church  govern- 
ment was  endeared  to  the  people  from  its  being  established  by  them- 
selves. It  was  endeared  to  them  also  by  the  struggle  it  hud  to  maintain 
with  the  Catholic  and  the  Protestant  episcopal  churches,  over  both  of 
which,  after  a  hundred  years  of  fierce,  and  sometimes  bloody  contention, 
it  finally  triumphed,  receiving  the  countenance  of  government,  and  the 
sanction  of  law.  During  this  long  period  of  contention  and  of  suffering 
the  temper  of  the  people  became  more  and  more  obstinate  and  bigotted, 
and  the  nation  received  that  deep  tinge  of  fanaticism  which  coloured 
their  public  transactions  as  well  as  their  private  virtues,  and  of  which 
evident  traces  may  be  found  in  our  own  times.  When  the  public  schools 
were  established,  the  instruction  communicated  in  them  partook  of  the 
religious  character  of  the  people.  The  Catechism  of  the  Westminster 
Divines  was  the  universal  school-book,  and  was  put  into  the  liands  of  the 
young  peasant  as  soon  as  he  had  acqui'ed  a  knowledge  of  his  alphabet ; 
and  his  first  exercise  in  the  art  of  reading  introduced  him  to  tlie  nio*t 
iiiyssterious  doctrines  of  the  Christian  faith.    This  practice  U  continued 


W^ 


r¥ 


610 


APPEKDIX,    NO.    lit. 


in  our  own  times.  Aflcr  the  ABRenibly'ii  Cutechism,  the  Proverbs  of 
Solomon  and  the  New  nn<)  Old  Testament  follow  in  regular  succes- 
cion;  and  the  scholar  drparts.  f^ifled  with  the  knowledge  of  the  sacred 
M'rrtinps,  and  receiving  their  doctrines  according  to  the  interpretation 
of  the  WestminAter  Confessiou  of  Faith.  Thus,  with  the  instruction 
of  infancy  in  the  schools  of  Scotland,  are  blended  the  dogmas  of  the 
national  church  ;  and  hence  the  first  and  most  constant  exercise  of  in< 
genuity  arooni;  the  peasantry  of  Scotland  id  displaced  in  religious  dis- 
putation. With  a  strong  attachmt^nt  to  the  national  creed,  is  con- 
joined  a  bigoted  preference  of  certain  forms  of  worship  :  the  source 
of  which  would  be  of\on  altogether  obscure,  if  we  did  not  recolltct 
that  the  ceremonies  of  the  Scottisli  church  were  framed  in  direct  op- 
position, in  every  point,  to  those  of  the  church  of  Rome. 

The  information  and  the  religious  education  of  the  peasantry  of 
Scotland  promote  sedateness  of  conduct,  and  habits  of  thought  and 
reflection. — These  good  qualities  are  not  counteracted  by  the  establish- 
ment  of  poor-laws,  which,  while  tley  reflect  ciedit  on  the  benevolence, 
detract  irom  the  wisdom  of  the  English  legislature. 

Happily,  in  Scotland,  the  same  legislature  which  established  a  sys- 
tem of  instruction  for  the  poor,  resisted  the  introduction  of  a  legal  pro- 
vision for  the  support  of  ipoverty  ;  the  establishment  of  the  firs^t,  and 
the  rejection  of  the  last,  wore  equally  favourable  to  industry  and  good 
morals ;  and  hence  it  wilt  not  appear  surprising,  if  the  Scottish  peasan- 
try have  a  more  than  usual  lihare  of  prudence  and  reflection,  if  they  ap- 
proach nearer  than  persons  of  their  ordi  r  usually  do  to  the  definition  of 
a  man,  that  of  **  a  being  that  looks  before  the  after."  These  observa- 
tions must,  indeed,  be  taken  with  many  exceptions :  the  favourable 
operation  of  the  causes  just  mentioned  iH  counteracted  by  others  of  an 
opponitu  tendency ;  and  the  subject,  if  fully  examined,  would  lead  to 
diticussions  of  great  extent. 

When  the  reformation  was  established  in  Scotland,  instrumental 
music  was  binished  from  the  churches,  as  savouring  too  much  of 
"  profane  minstrelsy."  Instead  of  being  regulated  by  an  instrument, 
the  voices  of  the  congregation  are  led  and  directed  by  a  person  under 
the  name  of  a  precentor,  and  the  people  are  all  expected  to  join  in 
the  tune  which  he  choses  for  the  psalm  which  is  to  be  sung.  Church^ 
music  is  therefore  a  part  of  the  education  of  the  peasantry  of  Scotland^ 
in  which  they  are  usually  instructed  in  the  long  winter  nights  by  the 
parish  sciiooi-master,  who  is  generally  the  precentor,  or  by  itinerant 
teachers  more  celebrated  for  their  powers  of  voice.  This  branch  of 
education  had,  in  ttie  last  reign,  fallen  into  some  neglect,  but  was  re- 
vived about  thirty  or  forty  years  ago,  when  the  music  itself  was  re- 
formed and  improved. 

That  dancing  should  also  be  very  generally  a  part  of  the  education 
of  the  Scottish  peasantry,  will  surprise  those  who  have  only  seen  thii 
description  of  men  :  and  still  more  those  who  redect  on  the  rigid  spirit 
of  Calvinism,  with  which  the  nation  is  so  deeply  affectedi  and  to 
which  this  recreation  is  strongly  abhorrent.  The  winter  is  also  the 
season  when  ttiey  acquire  dancing,  and  indeed  almost  all  their  other 
instruction.  They  are  taught  to  dance  by  persons  generally  of  their 
Awn  number,  many  of  whom  work  at  daily  labour  during  the  summer 
months.  The  school  is  usually  a  barn,  and  the  arena  for  the  perform- 
ers is  generally  u  clay  floor.    The  dome  is  lighted  by  candles  stuck  in 


•ne  ei 

wall, 
tised. 
no  pla 
every 
very  g 
women 
thi'se  c 
Scottis 
erect, 
with  se 
fermen 
tion,  ai 
as  well 
now  gei 
Englaiu 
In  anoti 
land. 

Thep 
people  8 
one  of  t 
finds  in 
to  tiie  Si 
•ibility, 
that  find 
This  ti 
blished  ri 
nued  an( 
from  the 
ceire,  or 
trines  am 
the  schoc 
of  the  pe( 
mceti'ngg 
their  spjr 
and  prud 
The  re 
^rtff  in  Sc 
gress  of  i 
qlJJrer,  tb 
had  taken 
quity  stro 
The  im 
deepened 
lections,  c 
those  qf  ot 
treat  of  lo 
proportion 
they  exhib 
spirit  of  af 
not  to  be  s 
"U-ainsof  ] 


I   of 

ces- 
:red 
it  ion 
:tion 
I  the 
)f  in- 
s  dis- 
con- 
nurce 
olltct 
:t  op- 
try  of 
It  and 
iblish- 
)lcnce« 

1  a  sya- 
al  pro- 
tit,  and 
(1  good 
peosan- 
hey  ap- 
lition  of 
)b9erva- 
purable 
pa  of  an 
lead  to 


location 
leen  thia 
lid  spirit 
and  to 
[also  the 
uir  other 
of  their 
1  summer 
jerforoi- 
[stuck  in 


REMARKS   ON   Tilt   SCOTTrSH   PEASANTRY.  CI  I 

•ne  end  of  a  cloven  8tick,  the  other  end  of  which  in  thrust  Into  the 
wall.  Heels,  strathspeya,  country-dances,  and  hornpipes  are  here  prac- 
tised. The  jig,  so  much  in  favour  among  the  English  pea8;»iitry,  his^ 
no  place  among  them  The  attachment  of  the  people  of  Scotland  of 
every  rank,  and  particularly  of  the  peasantry,  to  this  amusement,  is 
very  great.  After  the  labours  of  the  day  are  over,  young  men  and 
women  walk  many  nules,  in  the  cold  anil  dreary  nights  of  winter,  to 
thvse  country  dancing-schools  ;  and  the  instant  that  the  violin  sounds  u 
Scottish  air,  fatigue  seems  to  vanish,  the  toil-bent  rustic  becomes 
erect,  his  features  brighten  with  sympathy ;  every  nerve  seems  to  thrill 
with  sensation,  and  every  artery  to  %ibrate  with  life.  These  rustic  per- 
formers are  less  to  be  admired  for  grace,  than  for  agility  and  anima- 
tion, and  their  accurate  observance  of  time.  Their  inoded  of  dancing, 
«8  well  as  their  tunes,  are  common  to  every  rank  m  Scotland,  and  are 
now  generally  known.  In  our  own  day  they  have  penetrated  into 
England,  and  have  established  themselves  even  in  the  circle  of  royalty. 
In  anottier  generation  they  will  be  naturalized  in  every  part  of  the  is- 
land. 

The  prevalence  of  this  taste,  or  rather  passion  for  dancing,  among  a 
people  so  deeply  tinctured  with  the  spirit  and  doctrines  of  Calvin,  is 
one  of  those  contradictions  which  the  pliitosophic  observer  so  often 
finds  in  national  character  and  manners.  It  is  probably  to  be  ascribed 
to  tiie  Scottish  niusrc,  which  through  all  its  varieties,  is  so  full  of  sen- 
sibility, and  which,  in  its  livelier  strains,  awake«  those  vivid  emotions 
that  Hnd  in  dancing  their  natural  solace  and  relief. 

This  triumph  of  the  music  of  Scotland  over  the  spirit  of  the  esta* 
|)li8hed  religion,  hat*  not,  however,  been  obtained  without  long-conti- 
nued and  obstinate  struggles.  The  numerous  sectaries  who  dissent 
from  the  establishment,  on  account  qf  the  relaxation  which  they  per- 
ceive, or  tiiink  they  perceive,  in  the  churcii,  from  her  original  doc- 
trines and  discipline,  universally  condemn  the  practice  of  dincing,  and 
the  schools  where  it  is  taught ;  and  the  more  elderly  and  serious  part 
of  the  people  of  every  persuasion,  tolerate  rather  than  apprqve  these 
incetings  of  the  young  of  both  sexes,  where  dancing  is  practised  to 
tl^eir  spirit-stirring  music,  where  care  is  dispelled,  toil  is  forgotten, 
and  prudence  itself  is  sometimes  lulled  to  sleep. 

The  reformation,  which  proved  fatal  to  the  rise  of  the  other  fine 
firts  in  Scotland,  probably  impeded,  but  could  not  obstruct,  the  pro- 
gress of  its  music;  a  circumstance  that  will  convince  the  impartial  in- 
quirer, that  this  music  not  only  existed  previously  to  that  sera.  bu( 
had  taken  a  tirm  hold  of  the  nation  ;  thus  aifording  a  proof  of  its  anti- 
quity stronger  than  any  produced  by  the  researches  of  our  antiquaries. 
The  impression  whxii  the  Scottish  music  has  made  on  the  people,  is 
deepened  by  its  union  with  the  national  songs,  of  which  various  col- 
lections, of  unequal  merit,  are  before  the  )>ublic.  These  songs;  liks 
those  qf  other  nations,  are  many  of  them  humourous,  but  they  cliiefly 
treat  of  love,  war,  and  drinking.  Love  is  the  subject  of  the  greater 
proportion.  Without  displaying  the  higher  powers  of  the  imagination, 
tl)ey  exhibit  a  perfect  kno"''edge  of  the  nuinan  heart,  and  breathe  a 
spirit  of  affection,  and  soun^times  of  delicate  and  romantic  tenderness, 
not  to  be  surpassed  in  modern  poetry,  and  which  the  more  polished 
itlTMns-  of  antiquity  hav«  seldom  possessed. 


f'  m 


^  I ' 


1  i: 


612 


APPENorx,  no,  iir. 


'i'liert'  is  now  a  legal  provision  for  parnchinl  nchooN,  or  rathrr  for  a 
lichnol  in  cuch  of  titu  ililForent  towufiliips  into  whicli  tliu  country  in 
divicli'd,  in  scvurul  of  tliu  northern  states  of  North  America  'I'hey 
ure,  however,  of  rt-cent  origin  tlicre,  excepting  in  New  Knglinul, 
HJicre  they  were  ce•ttll)li^hc'(l  in  the  Inst  century,  probably  nhout  the 
same  time  us  in  Scotlaiul,  ami  l)y  the  name  religious  sect.  This  is  uIno 
the  case  in  certain  districtH  in  Kngland,  particularly  in  the  northern 
parts  of  Yorkshire  anil  of  Luncashire,  anil  in  the  counties  of  West- 
niur;.laiul  and  Cunibi^rlund. 

A  law,  providing  for  the  instruction  of  the  poor,  was  passed  by  the 
parliament  of  Ireland;  but  the  fund  was  divcrlid  from  itM  purpose, 
and  the  meaurt;  was  entirely  frustrateil.     Proh  pndor  !* 

The  similarity  of  character  between  the  Seots  and  the  people  of 
New  England  can  scarcely  be  overlooked,  'i'hut  it  arises  in  a  great 
measure  from  the  similarity  of  their  institutions  for  instruction,  cannot 
be  questioned.  It  is  no  doubt  increased  by  physical  causes.  With  :i 
superior  degree  of  instruction,  tuch  of  these  nations  possesses  a  coun- 
try  that  may  be  said  to  be  sterile,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  countries 
comparatively  rich.  Hence  emigrations,  and  other  etl'ects  on  conduct 
and  character  which  such  circumstances  naturally  produce.  This  sub- 
ject is  in  a  high  degree  curious.  The  points  of  dissimilarity  between 
these  nations  might  be  traced  to  their  causes  also,  and  ttie  whole  inves- 
tigation would  perhaps  admit  of  an  approach  to  certainty  in  our  con- 
clusion, to  which  such  inquiries  seldom  lead.  How  much  superior  in 
morals,  in  intellect,  and  in  happiness,  the  peasantry  of  those  parts  of 
England  arc,  who  i.avc  opportunities  of  instruction,  to  the  same  class 
in  other  situations,  those  who  inquire  into  the  subject  will  speedily 
discover.  The  peasantry  of  Westmoreland,  and  of  the  other  aistricts 
mentioned  above,  if  their  physical  and  moral  qualities  be  taken  to- 
gether, arc,  in  the  opinion  of  the  editor,  superior  to  the  peasantry  of 
any  part  of  the  island.^ 


From  the  foregoing  account  of  the  parish  establishment  of  Scotland, 
it  will  readily  be  perceived  that  the  Scottish  peasantry  are  placed  un- 
der circumstances  peculiarly  favourable  to  the  dissemination  of  know- 
ledge among  them.  As  they  receive  an  eorly  education,  they  are  ge- 
nerally intelligent,  and  have  a  taste  for  reading,  but,  being  mostly  in 
poor  circumstances,  books,  to  a  great  extent,  are  not  within  their  reach. 
To  provide  for  the  general  dissemination  of  knowledge,  by  books,  it 
occured  to  me,  that  an  excellent  plan  would  be  to  adopt  a  system  of 
public  librarii'S,  one  to  be  established  in  each  parish. 

I  communicated  this  idea  to  a  friend  in  the  beginning  of  the  year 
1804.     He  concurred  wita  me  in  opinion  ;  and,  witli  a  vieie  of  trying 

*  «'  With  what  execration  should  the  statesman  be  loaded"  who  could  frustrate  ■ 
measure  »o  beneficial  to  society !  If  the  stalesmun  \vho  neglects  ta  provide  the  meant 
of  instniciion  be  culpable,  what  are  we  to  think  of  thuttc  who  aie  opposed  to  the  iiistiuc- 
tion  ot'  the  mass  of  the  people  altogether  ? 

f  A  bill  was  brought  into  tlie  British  parliament,  by  Mr.  Whitbread,  in  180?,  to 
make  provision  for  the  education  of  the  people  of  Englaad.  It  was  opposed  by  tbe 
whole  tory  and  court  influcuc«  uf  tbe  country,  including  even  Mr.  Wyndham,  a  pr«" 
tended  whig.  • 


REMARKS   ON    THE    SCOTTISH    PEAMANTRY. 


019 


iu  practicability,  we  digested  tho   plau  uf  n  library  to  be  establinliod 
in  the  city  of  Glasgow,  upon  ^uich  [irinciplcii  that   it  might,  with  somo 
modifications,    be  adopted   tir  ougliout   tlmt,    or  any  other  country. 
The  gruutust  diificulty  we  hud  to  encounter,  in  putting  thik  plan  in  ex- 
edition,  was  in  the  attempt  to  make  the  property  entirely  public,  and 
to  introduce  u  principle  by  wmicIi  every  member  of  the  coiumunity,  in 
all  time  coming,  might  avail  tliemsilveii  of  tlie  use  of  the  library  on 
the  sanu-  ternis  as  the  original  subacribcrs.     We  made  many  attemptfl» 
but  could  not  get  u  sinijle  individual  to  join  u»,  and  the  plan  was  like- 
ly to  be  abandoned,  when  it  oeciirred  to  my   friend,  who  was  a  little 
eccentric,  that  wc  c«<  itd  cstablittli  the  library  ouoelves.     This  idea  was 
adopted.     We   i\r    ,    up  and  signed  the  regulations  ;  paid  our  entry- 
money  and  annual  contribution,  and  with  the  amount  purchurcd  Paley'a 
Natural  Theology,  and  Lord   Lauderdale's  essay   on   Public   Weitlth, 
ivhich  laid  the  foundation  of  the  library.     My  friend  took  the  ofKcc  of 
librarian,  and  I  held  all  the  other  offices.     \Vc  held   regular  meetings, 
and  had  much  intellectual  pleasure  in   superintending  our  infant  insti- 
tution.    The  circumstance  developed  a  new  fact  in  the  history  of  liter- 
ature, namely,  that  two  members    were  sufficient  to  form   a  library. 
In  the  course  of  a  few  weeks,  wc  were  joined  by  two  or  three  more, 
and  the  funds  thry  contributed  were  immediately  laid  out  in  the  pur- 
chase of  popular  bookM,  which  enabled  us  to  gratify  our  new  subcrib- 
ers  as  fast  as  th(  y  joined  U9.     By   the  month  of  December,  the   sub- 
Bcribcrs  amounted  to  S1-,  and  there  were  4-(>  volumes   in  the  library. 
A  general  meeting  was  then  held,  and  the  library  was  formally  insti- 
tuted on  the  tenth  of  that  month.     Another  meeting  was  held   on  tl^e 
3d  of  January,  1805,  when  office-bearers  were  elected,  and  the  institu- 
tion has  since  prospered  in  a  very  eminent  degree.    Its  progress  for  the 
first  four  years  is  exhibited  in  the  following   tabic.     Since  the  year 
1808,  it  progress  has  been  more  rapid ;  it  now  contains  nearly  .'lOOO 
volumes  of  cimice  books,  and  promises  to  become  one  of  the  most  ex- 
tensive libraries  in  the  British  islands. 

It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  party  politics  were  never  known  in  the 
institution. 

Table  of  the  Rise  and  Progress  qf  the  Clasgoio  Public  Librari/. 


are  ge- 
)stly  in 
reach, 
ooks,  it 
stem  of 

;he  year 
"  trying 

jstrate  t 

le  mean* 

be  insUuc- 

1808,  to 
Id  by  tUe 


^ 

ra.  Subscribert, 

No.  volt. 

Xo. 

Subscribers. 

A'^.  vot$. 

2 

2 

2 

Oct.    I 

210 

808 

0 

94 

40 

1807. 

Jan.     1 

240 

945 

54 

53 

April  1 

259 

1086 

72 

169 

July    1 

275 

1105 

IflS 

345 

Oct.     I 

289 

1157 

\M 

4»9 

1808. 

Jun.     1 

313 

1961 

169 

487 

April  1 

317 

1453 

178 

745 

July     I 

332 

1476 

199 

7e2 

Sept.  16 

339 

1502 

1804.  July 
Dec.  10 

1805.  Jan. 
April 
July 
Oct. 

1806.  Jan. 
April 
July 

Since  I  lefl  the  country,  the  library  has  been  incorporated,  on 
which  occasion  the  articles  were  somewhat  modified,  and  are  not  now 
sufficiently  expressive  of  the  original  principles  of  the  institution,  in 
consequence  of  which  I  have  inserted  the  words  in  italics^  in  the  fol- 
lowing abstract  of  the  modified  copy. 


»li 


ArPENSrX,   KO.   III. 


R«guhtions  of  the  Glasgoxu  Public  Library,  instituted  December^  1804. 

•*  The  attainment  of  mans  true  rank  in  the  creation,  and  his  present  and 
Jkture  happiness,  individual  as  well  as  public,  depend  on  the  cultivation 
und  proper  direction  of  the  human  Jaculties." 

To  provide  the  means  of  diffusing  literature  and  knowledge,  is  an 
object  of  the  greatest  importance  to  society,  and  claims  the  attention  of 
weruj'nendto  mankind. 

for  this  purpose,  it  lias  been  judged  a  matter  of  great  utility,  to  es- 
tablish and  to  keep  up  in  all  time  coming,  a  PUBLIC  LIBRARY  in 
TH£  CITY  OF  GLASGOW,  wliich  shall  be  open,  under  proper  regulations, 
to  all  inclined  to  take  the  benefit  of  it,  upon  paying  a  small  sum  annu- 
ally,  towards  its  support  and  increase. 

For  establishing  such  a  library,  the  members  agree  upon  the  foU 
lowiag 

KEGULATIONS. 

L  Each  subscriber,  upon  his  admission,  shall  pay   to  the  treasurer 
for  the  rime,  twelve  shillings  of  entry-money  ;  and  the  object  being  the 
general  dissemination  of  hiowledge,  the  entry- money  shall  never  be  raiised. 
Yl,  Each  member  shall  pay  an  annual  contribution  of  ten   shillings 
imd  six-pence.    Those  who  enter  betwixt  the  first  of  January  and  the 
^fst  of  April,  shall  pay  a  full    year's  contribution;    those  who  enter 
hetwixt  the  first  of  April  and  the  first  of  October,  a   iialf  year's  con- 
tribution; and  those  who  enter   betwixt  the  first  of  October,  and  the 
first  of  January,  shall  be  free  till  January.     The  annual  contribution 
shall  be  paid  on  or  before  the  second  VVednesday  of  January  yearly, 
and  those,  who  fhil  to  do  so,  shall  not  have  any  right  to  the  use  of 
the  library  till  it  is  paid.    Such  members  as  may   be  under  the  neces- 
sity of  leaving  the  place,  shall,  on  their  return,  he  entitled  to  the  use 
of  the  library,  on   paying  the   annual  contribution  for  the  year  then 
'  current,  and  exigible  from  those   members.     Should   any  person  who 
has  been  a  member  for  five  years,  become  unable  to  pay  the  annual 
contribution,  he  will  be  entitled  to  the  use  of  the  library  gratis.     The 
curators  for  the  time  will  be  judges  of  such  claims. 

lit.  Such  as  tviish  at  any  time  to  become  members  of  this  institution, 
'  shall  pay  the  entry-money  and  annual  contributimi,  in  terms  of  the  J'oregO' 
ing  article,  to  the  treasurer,  tvho  will  give  a  receipt,  and,  upon  producing 
it  to  the  librarian,  he  is  empoivered  to  add  his  name  to  the  lid  of  subscri- 
hers,  and  admit  him  a  member  accordingly.  Tiie  right  of  a  member  to 
the  use  of  the  library  may  be  transferred  to  any  other  person,  upon 
such  member  sending  a  letter  to  that  effect  ro  the  treasurer,  and  the 
person,  to  whom  the  transfer  is  made,  paying  two  shillings  and  six- 
pence in  name   of  entry-  money. 

IV.  The  funds  to  be  raised  in  virtue  of  this  institution,  shall,  after 
d^?fraying  the  necessary  expences,  be  applied  in  purchasing  books  of 
approved  merit  only.  Of  these  a  judgment  will  be  formed  by  a  ma- 
jority of  the  members,  at  each  general  meeting.  But  no  purchase 
shall  at  any  time,  be  made,  to  a  greuter  extent  than  the  funds  in  hand 
«re  sttffi«i8nt  to  pay. 


INSTITUTION   OF   THE  0LA8OOW  PI^BLIC    LIBRARY. 


61i 


V.  The  property  of  the  library  shall  be,  and  the  same  is  hereby 
vested  in  the  members  in  thui^t,  for  the  purposes  of  the  institution, 
the  title  whereof  tthall  be,  "  The  Glasgow  ruBJUic  Lisraat,  insxi« 

TUTED    IN    THE    YEAR    1 804-." 

VI.  There  shall  be  four  general  meetings  annually,  viz.  on  the  first 
Wednesday  of  January,  the  first  Wednesday  of  April,  the  first  Wed- 
nesday of  July,  and  the  first  Wednesday  of  October.  Intimation  of 
the  place  and  hour  of  sucli  meetings,  shall  be  Fent  to  each  meinber  by 
the  sccrciary  or  librarian,  three  days  before  the  meetings  take  place. 
Extraordinary  general  meetings  upon  special  affairs  may,  in  like  man- 
ner, at  any  time  be  called  by  the  curators,  who  f.  tall  als>:  be  obliged 
to  call  such  meetings  within  eight  days  after  a  written  request  to  that 
effect  is  made  to  them,  by  any  12  of  the  members. 

VII.  The  management  of  this  instiLution  shall  be  vested  in  a  com- 
mittee,  consisting  of  nine  curators,  a  treasurer,  secretary,  and  libra* 
rian ;  of  whom  four  shall  at  all  times  be  a  quorum.  The  election 
shall  take  place  at  the  general  meeting,  on  the  first  Wednesday  of  Janu- 
ary, yearly,  by  a  majority  of  the  members  then  assembled.  The  three 
curators  who  are  then  at  the  head  of  the  list,  shall  go  out  of  the  office, 
Rnd  three  others  shall  be  elected  in  their  place,  and  added,  in  the 
order  of  their  election,  to  the  foot  of  the  list.  T  le  pret^iding  curator 
stiall  put  the  question,  which  of  the  members  shu!l  be  first  elected  one 
of  the  three  curators;  and  from  the  person  so  elected,  he  shall,  either- 
in  presence  of  tlie  meeting,  or  at  the  first  subse<|uent  meeting  of  the 
curators,  take  a  solemn  promise,  that  he  will  discliarge  the  duties  of 
his  office  with  fidelity.  And  in  like  manner  the  election  of  the  second 
and  third  curators,  of  the  treasurer,  secretary,  and  librarian,  shall  be 
conducted.  When  a  vacancy  occurs  in  the  curacy,  it  shali  be  filled 
up  by  the  members  at  the  next  general  meeting,  and  the  person  or  per- 
sons so  elected,  shall,  in  the  order  of  their  election,  be  added  to  the 
foot  of  the  list  of  curators.  Tiie  offices  of  treasurer  and  secretary, 
may  be  vested  in  one  or  two  persons,  as  the  meeting  may  think  pro« 
per,  who,  with  the  librarian,  may  be  continued  at  pleasure.  At  all 
meetings,  the  first  curator  shall  be  present;  in  the  absence,  the  next 
curator,  and  so  on  to  the  last;  in  the  absence  of  all  the  curators,  the 
treasurer  ;  and  in  his  absence,  the  eldest  member  present. 

Vlil.  The  treasurer  shall  have  the  management  of  the  society*! 
funds,  and  the  secretary  of  the  minutes  and  correspondence,  and  both 
offices  shall  be  purely  honorary.  The  librarian,  who  is  also  under  se- 
cretary, shall  have  the  management  of  the  books  of  the  library,  sub- 
ject to  the  rules  made,  or  to  be  made,  by  the  members  fur  its  govern- 
ment, and  may  or  may  not  have  a  salary,  as  circumstances  siuill  di- 
rect. 

IX.  A  meeting  of  the  contmittee  shall  be  held  on  the  Wednesday  pre- 
vious to  each  general  meeting,  when  the  treasurer  shall  Ity  a  state  of 
his  transactions  befure  them,  for  the  purpose  of  being  audited  and  set- 
tled, and  the  balance  in  his  hands  ascertained.  They  will  then  in- 
form themselves  of  the  state  of  the  library,  and  make  out  a  report 
thereon,  to  be  laid  before  the  general  meeting,  together  with  a  list  of 
such  books  as  they  would  reconunend  for  the  use  of  the  library.  And 
the  better  to  enable  them  to  prepare  such  list,  every  member  is  invited 
to  lodge  with  the  librarian,  before  the  committee  meetings  take  place« 
a  memorandum  of  such  books,  not  exceeding  five  in  number,  as  meet 


616 


Al^PEKDIX,   NO.   III. 


his  approbation.  The  (Committee  shall  also  cause  a  list  of  the  mem- 
bers to  be  made  up  eight  days  previous  to  the  general  meeting,  on  the 
first  Wednesday  of  January,  yearly,  which  list  shall  be  entered  in  a 
book  kept  for  the  purpose,  signed  by  the  secretary,  and  8hall,  if  re- 
(]uired,  be  produced  at  every  general  meeting.  To  that  list  shall  be 
added  the  names  of  those  who,  during  the  year,  have  become  members 
of  the  institution,  and  from  it  the  names  of  those  who  die,  reriigii,  or 
forfeit  their  right,  shall  be  delated. 

The  first  curator  and  secretary  shall  have  power  to  call  a  meeting  of 
the  committee,  as  often  as  tliey  may  think  necessary,  of  which  the 
secretary  shall  give  proper  notice  to  all  the  members,  the  day  before 
such  meetings  take  place  ;  and  it  shall  be  incumbent  on  every  menjber 
to  attend,  or  to  send  a  written  excuse  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  meet- 
inp-.  But  if  any  member  neglect  to  attend,  or  to  send  an  excuse  for 
two  successive  meetings,  he  slial)  be  held  as  having  resijjned  his  office. 

X.  At  each  quarterly  general  meeting,  a  report  of  the  proceedings 
of  the  committee  shall  be  laid  before  the  members  for  their  considera- 
tion. The  list  of  books  previously  prepared  by  the  committee,  sliall 
albo  be  laid  before  them,  from  which  they  shall  make  a  selection,  with 
any  additions  they  may  judge  proper,  and  give  orders  to  the  treasurer 
which  to  purchase  accordingly. 

XI.  A  majority  of  two- 1  birds  of  the  subscribers,  at  any  general 
meeting  assembled,  may  apply  to  the  crown  for  a  charter  of  incorpo- 
ration, or  to  the  provost,  ujagistrates,  and  towu'-council  of  the  city  of 
Glasgow,  for  a  seal  of  cause,  in  confirmation  of  these  regulations. 

The  society  reserve  the  power  of  adding  to,  altering,  or  amending 
these  regulations.  But  no  such  additions,  alterations,  or  amendments 
shall  be  made,  unless  a  specific  motion  in  writing  is  made,  seconded, 
and  entered  upon  the  minutes,  at  a  general  meeting  of  the  society. 
And,  in  order  to  allow  the  members  time  to  deliberate  on  ihe  proprie- 
ty of  such  additions,  alterations,  or  amendments,  thus  made  and  se- 
conded, the  consideration  thereof  shall  not  be  resumed  until  the  quar- 
terly meeting,  occurring  three  months  thereafter,  and  if  approved  o( 
by  two-thirds  of  the  members  present  at  such  (|uarterly  meeting,  the 
same  shall  thenceforward  become  a  law  of  the  society.  But  it  is  de- 
clared that  no  law  shall  ever  be  passed  to  dissolve  the  socict//,  or  to  pre- 
vent  the  public  at  large  J'rain  participating  in  its  advantages,  hy  ruiwig 
the  entry-money. 

RULES  FOR  THE  LIBRARIAN. 

I,  The  librarian  shall  keep  the  key  of  the  library,  and  have  the 
custody  of  the  books,  for  which  he  siiall  be  accountable.  When  he 
enters  on  his  charge,  he  shall  receive  an  exact  catalogue  of  the  books, 
subscribed  by  the  treasurer  and  five  of  the  curators,  which  shall  lie  in  the 
library  ;  and  a  copy  of  this  catalogue,  subscribed  by  the  librarian,  with 
an  acknowledgment  of  his  having  received  Mie  books  therein,  shall  be 
lodged  with  the  treasurer. 

II.  Each  subscriber  shall  be  entitled  to  receive  from  the  librarian, 
and  have  iu  his  possesssion  at  one  time,  only,  one  volume  of  folio,  or 
of  quarto  :  or  two  volumes  in  any  one  book  of  octavo  and  under:  but 
VN  hen  any  book  consists  of  one  volume,  be  shall  be  entitled  to  that- 
volume  only. 


ON   THE   BRITISH   AND  AMERICAK  TRADE. 


tin 


III.  Books  in  folio  may  be  kept  out  of  the  library  six  weeks  at  a  time; 
in  quarto,  four  weeks  ;  in  octavo  and  under,  two  weeks.  A  single  nuni< 
ber  of  any  book,  review,  or  magazine,  four  days  only. 

IV.  If  any  subscriber  detain  a  book  heyond  the  time  specified,  he 
must  pay  a  fine  of  three-pence  for  ever;^  A^eek  the  book  is  so  detained, 
and  for  a  less  time  in  proportion  ;  and  lie  can  have  no  other  book  from 
the  library  till  the  former  be  returned,  and  the  fine  paid. 

V.  If  any  subscriber  shall  lend,  or  suffer  to  be  lent  out  of  his  house  or 
family,  any  book  or  pamphlet  belonging  to  the  library,  he  shall  forfeit 
two  shillings  and  six-pence  for  the  first  o£Pence,  five  shillings  for  the  se- 
cond, and  if  guilty  of  a  third,  he  shall  forff^it  all  right  to  the  library. 

VI.  If  a  subscriber  h/se  a  book,  he  must  pay  the  value  of  it;  or  if  a 
volume  of  a  set  be  lost,  that  set  must  be  taken  and  paid  for.  If  any  book 
be  injured  beyond  what  may  be  reasonably  allowed  for  the  using,  it  must 
be  laid  before  the  committee  for  their  determination,  and  the  injury  be 
paid  for  to  tbtir  satisfaction. 

VII.  The  librarian  must  take  a  receipt,  in  a  book  to  be  kept  for  t  : 
purpose,  for  every  book  lent  out ;  but  should  it  be  inconvenient  for  ... y 
subscriber  to  attend  in  person  for  the  purpose  of  granting  such  receipt, 
he  must  send  a  line  to  the  librarian,  who  will  in  that  case  be  authorized 
to  subscribe  for  him. 

VIII.  The  librarian  must  lend  out  the  books  to  the  subscribers  in 
the  order  of  their  application.  A  subscriber,  afler  keeping  a  book  the 
time  specified,  may  take  it  out  anew,  provided  no  other  subscriber  ha$ 
applied  for  it  in  the  interim. 

When  I  was  in  Edinburgh,  in  the  month  of  January,  1809,  I  inserted 
an  account  '/"the  institution  in  the  Scots  Magazine,  preparatory  to  re- 
«;ommendiL5  ihe  plan  for  parish  libraries  in  that  work.  My  subsequent 
operations  have  defeated  that  intention,  in  consequence  of  which  I  have 
introduced  the  subject  here ;  and  the  plan  being  founded  on  the  princi- 
pies  of  equality,  and  having  answered  well  in  practice,  I  have  no  hesita- 
tion in  strongly  recommending  it  to  those  who  may  be  concerned  in  es- 
tablishing  public  libraries. 


^|.- 1 


'^l- 


m 


»ve  the 
len  he 
I  books, 
in  the 
II,  with 
liall  be 


i 


No.  IV. 

Essat/  on  the  Trade  between  Britain  and  America. 

FOR    THE   AURORA. 

The  inhabitants  of  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States  of  America 
are  so  allied  by  consanguinity,  by  language,  by  their  mutual  wants,  and 
by  their  ability  to  serve  each  other,  that  a  commercial  intercourse  be 
twcen  them  is  of  more  importance  than  between  any  other  two  nations 
in  the  world.  Circumstances  of  a  very  extraordinary  nature  have  oc- 
i;urred  to  interrupt  this  commerce,  and  matters  have  of  late  assumed 
such  a  serious  appearance  that  very  gloomy  apprehensions  begin  to  be 
entertained  that  it  may  be  entirely  cut  off.  The  great  in>portance  of  the 
subject  may  be  deduced  from  the  manner  in  which  it  has  engrossed  the 
Utention  of  all  ranks  of  the  community  in  both  countries;  and,  as  might 
he  expected,  very  many  erroneous  speculations  are  afloat  upon  it.  In 
particular,  the  primary  cause  of  the  interruption  has  been  studiously 
kept  from  the  public  view,  while  other  causes  have  been  alleged  which 
have  no  existence  in  fact ;  and  many  writers  on  both  sides  of  the  quei- 

7¥ 


618 


APMKDIX,   KO.   IV. 


tion  have  not  scrupled  to  affirm  that  the  trade  between  the  two  couii<. 
tries  is  of  little  importance.  I  shall  in  this  communication  take  a  sum- 
inary  glance  of  the  nature  of  this  commerce,  making  such  deductions 
as  I  think  the  subject  warrants  ;  and  I  shall  assign  a  reason  for  the  inter- 
ruption, which  I  believe  to  be  correct. 

1  shall  assume  as  a  data  that  the  exports  from  Great  Britain  to  Ame- 
rica Ithvc  of  late  amounted  annually  to  about  12  millions  sterling,  or  about 
53  millions  of  dollars ;  and  that  the  returns  in  American  produce  liave 
amounted  to  about  5  millions  sterling,  or  about  22  millions  of  dollars. 
The  balance  was  paid  to  Britain  by  bills  of  exchange  arising  from  the 
trade  between  America  and  the  continent  of  Europe  ;  and  tlie  greater 
part  of  the  rarrying  trade  has  been  in  American  vessels. 

Now,  the  exports  from  Britain  to  America  have  consisted  principally 
of  manufactures,    which  that   ingenious  and   industrious  people  have 
brought  to  great  perfection,  and  can,  in  general,  furnish  on  better  terms 
than  any  other  nation  in  the  \vorlii.      This  arises  from   the  manner  in 
which  the  manulhcturcs  are  ortrani/ed.     Particular  branches  have  het-n 
brought  to  maturity  in  prirticular  districts  of  country  best  calculcted  for 
carrying  them  on  ;  thus — cotton  manufactures  in  Manchester,  Glasgow, 
Paisley,  &c.  linen  manufactures  in  Ir'^-land,  and  different  parts  of  Scot- 
land; woollens  in  Leeds,  Bury,  Shrewsbury,  &c.  hardware  in  Birming- 
ham, cutlery  in  Sheffield,  hosiery  in  Nottingham,  Leicester,  &c.  &c.  The 
necessary  divisions  and  sub-divisions  of  labour  have  taken  place.     The 
labourers  are  possessed  of  a  patient  industry  and  a  frugal  economy  which 
cannot  be  surpassed.    A  great  portion  of  the  labour  is  performed  by  ma- 
ci:'incry,  more  especially  since  the  successful  introduction  of  ihe  steam 
engine  ;  so  tliat  all  the  articles  above  enumerated,  and  many  others  that 
might  ho  mentioned,  can,  notwithstanding  the  press  of  taxation  arising 
from  the  dissipation  of  the  court,  be  furnisiied  in  Britain  on  better  terms 
than  in  any  other  nation  whatever.     Now,  it  is  surely  the  interest  of  the 
people  of  Britain  to  dispose  of  as  many  of  these  manufactures  as  possible. 
'i  hey  cannot  get  a  better  market  than  the  United  States. 

It  is  the  interest  of  the  people  of  the  United  States  to  receive  them, 
so  long  as  they  can  apply  their  industry  .o  better  advantage  in  clearinjj; 
and  cultivating  their  lands,  and  in  applying  to  other  branches  of  internal 
policy. 

Again,  the  returns  that  are  made  to  Britain  are  mutually  advantageous. 
They  clear  the  hands  of  the  growers  of  produce  here  of  their  surplus  ar- 
ticles, at  fair  prices  ;  and  furnish  a  supply  of  raw  materials  for  the  manu- 
factures, and  of  food  for  the  manufacturers,  of  timber  for  buildings  and 
machinery,  of  ashes  for  their  bleachfields ;  to  say  nothing  of  many  other 
articles  of  utility,  convenience  and  luxury. 

As  to  the  carrying  part,  it  has  been  mostly  in  American  vessels,  and 
it  is  mutually  advantageous  that  it  should  be  so,  for  this  very  plain  rc.v 
son,  that  it  can  be  done  at  the  cheapest  rate.  Britain  be  ing  kept  in  a 
•tate  of  eternal  warfare,  her  shipping  is  of  course  subjected  to  consider- 
able sea-risk,  and  a  coni..cjuent  increase  of  freight  and  insurance,  which 
American  shipping  is  exempted  troni  ;  and  it  follows  that  the  cheapest 
will  be  preferred.  Just  so  will  commerce  always  regulsle  itself,  if  left 
to  its  own  operation  ;  and  the  greatest  service  that  governments  can  ren- 
Cvr  it  is  "to  let  it  alotie."  1  believe  it  may  be  safely  affirmed  that  by 
bt  i))g  carrit  d  in  American  vessels  during  tlie  war,  American  prochuM' 
tull  go  to  the  British  market  from  10  to  lii  per  cent,  cheaper,  ami  iir 


)nslder' 
k  which 
Iheapcst 
If,  if  left 
Ian  ren- 
Ithat  by 

liid  lir.' 


1r| 


ON    TUB    BRll'IKH,    &C. 


(319 


tish  manufactures  will  be  carried  to  America  from  S  to  10  per  cent,  cheap- 
er than  in  I^ritish  vessels.  This  is,  of  course,  a  great  savinf;  to  t!ie  in- 
habitants of  both  countries;  and  I  wish  to  state  this  explicitly,  becauso 
that  class  of  men  in  Britain  who  call  themselves  *' the  shipping  interest" 
have  made  a  terrible  yelping  and  noise  about  it :  Rut  w'  y,  in  the  uautie 
of  common  sense,  should  their  interest,  or  the  interest  of  any  particular 
class,  be  set  up  in  opposition  to  the  interest  of  a  nation? 

From  this  short  review  it  is  evident  tiiat  tiie  trade  between  tho  two 
countries  has  been  mutually  advantageous.  To  the  inhabitants  ofA- 
merica  it  is  useful  and  convenient;  to  those  of  Britain  it  is  essentially 
necessary :  it  cannot  be  the  wish  of  t:ither  peo[>le  to  stop  it — reason, 
and  common  sense,  and  self-interest  forbid  it.  Whence  tiien  does  thii 
interruption  arise?  [^Ilcir  a  number  of  the  rensi»ts  iv/uch  hai>e  bern  -iS' 
signed  ai-e  noticed ;  and  it  is  tlien  stated .-]  The  true  cause  is  to  be  found 
in  the  hostility  ol"  the  court  of  Britain.  Tliey  have  never  forgivcii  A- 
merica  for  asserting  her  independence.  They  have  considered  the  A- 
n.^'icans  as  a  divided  people;  anil  they  have  thought  that  by  persever- 
ing in  a  course  of  steady  hostility,  the  country  would  fall  an  easy  prey. 

[After  a  number  of  speculations  on  th^>  probable  changes  that  mi;/  c 
take  place,  notice  is  taken  of  the  dawn  of  hope  lield  out  by  the  proba- 
bility of  a  regency  and  whig  ministry  being  appointed  in  Britain.  Tho 
probable  steps  they  would  pursue  {^r*^  glanced  at,  and  t'"'*  consequences 
to  America  are  summed  up  thus  :]  Our  trade  would  flourish — our  good 
will  towards  ea«/.i  other,  and  towards  our  British  brethren  would  i»'- 
crease — party  distinctions  would  be  done  away — political  names  would 
be  no  longer  applied  as  terms  of  reproach — we  would  be  all  federalists— - 
we  woula  be  all  republicans. 


If 


ADVICE    TO   EMIGRANTS   TO    A>IER1CA. 


Thcfullomnfr  extracts  from  a  letter  •writtenbt/  Clements  Burleigh, 
E/Kj.  ■who  resided  for  ^0  years  in  the  United  States  of  North  America, 
ivill  be  fotinU  useful  to  such  persons  as  mean  to  emigrate  to  that  coun- 
try.— 


<'  I  will  now  proceed  to  give  some  instructions  to  my  own  country- 
tiicn,  who  may  hereafter  emigrate  to  the  United  States  of  America. 
I  shall  first  take  up  the  poor  mechanic  and  day  labourer,  next  the 
farmer  who  may  go  there  v.ith  money  to  purchase  land,  and  next  the 
merchant. 

<'  1  will  take  the  liberty,  as  an  introduction,  to  point  out  some  stum- 
Ming  blocks  that  have  been  in  the  way  of  many  emigrants  to  this  coun- 
try.    ^^'e  conceive  the   vessel  coming  to  anchor,   and  the  passengers 
preparing  for  going  ashore.     On   setting  their  feet  on  land,  they  look 
ubout  them,  see  fine  houses,  gardens,  and  orchards,  the  streets  crowd-> 
cd  with  well'dressed  people,  every  one  pursuing  his   own  business. — 
Well,  the  question  now  is,  where  shall  1  go?  I  meet  a  person  passing, 
and  address  myself  to  him,  requesting  him  to  inform  me,  where  I  can 
have  accommodations  for  some  short  time.     He  will  point  out  a  house 
which   he  thinks  may   answer  my  appearance,  &c.     I   get  my  goods 
conveyed  to  this  house.     The  landlord  and  his  family  receive  me  as  a 
foreigfier,  and  so  long  as  I  have  cash  will  have  a  watchful  eye  over  mc, 
and  treat  me  according  to  what  money  I  spend  with  them.     In  the 
wean  time,  on  the  arrjval  of  an  Irish  ship,  a  crowd  of  poor  Irish,  who 
have  been  in  that  country  for  a  number  of  years,  are  always  fond  of 
meeting  their  countrymen  on  landing,  and  of  encouraging  them  to  take 
a  share  of  grog  or  porter,  &c.     The  feelings  of  the  open-hearted  Irish- 
man &re  alive  to   the    invitation,  and  some  days  are  spent  in  this  way, 
in  the  company  of  men  vvho  are  a  disgrace  to  tlie  country   they  came 
from,  and  who  are  utterly  incapnole  to  procure  themselves  work,  much 
less  the  poor  emigrant.     I  warn  tfiiigrants,  therefore,  to  be  upon  their 
guard. 

The  plan,  therefore,  which  I  would  recommend,  is  that  upon  land- 
ing, as  soon  as  convenient,  they  should  divest  themselves  of  any  heavy 
luggage,  such  as  chests  or  boxes ;  and  in  the  mean  time,  if  they  are 
deficient  of  money  to  carry  them  to  the  inland  parts  of  the  country, 
stop  some  time,  and  if  they  can  get  work  apply  to  it,  and  use  what 
they  earn  with  economy,  and  keep  clear  of  all  idle  company,  nnd  also 
be  particular  in  keeping  clear  of  a  certain  description  o4'  their  own 
oouiitryBien.  When  they  have  acquired  as  much  money  as  may  help 
to  bear  th^ir  expences,  let  them  put  their  bundles  on  board  one  of  the 
waggons,  loaded  with  merchandize  for  the  Western  country.     By  be- 


'■  r 


ADVICE   TO    EMIGRAMS. 


62 1 


'•f: 


ing  acUvc  and  obliging  to  the  carrier   on  the  way,  lie  will  charj;e  liitln 
or  nothing  on  your  arrival  ut  Pittsburg,  or  Grccnshurg,  or  any  otluT 
town  in  the  western  parts  of  Penuisylvaiiia.     Youthen  take  yoar   pro- 
perty  from   aboard   of  thj  wag};i)n,  if  it  suits,  and  make  inq-iiry  for 
labour.     The  best  plan  would  be  to  (.'nfMj;!)  u  year  witti    som  ;   ojmlcnt 
farmer,  fur  which  period  of  service,  you  will   rucuive   100  dollars,  and 
during  that  time  be  found  in  meat,  drink,  washing,  and  lodging.    Ihix 
^ill  be  an  apprenticeship  that  will  teatli  }  ou  the  work  of  the  country, 
such  as  cutting  timber,  splitting  fence  rails,  and  other  work  that  is  not 
known  in  Ireland.     Ue   temperate  and  frugal,  and  attend   worship   on 
Sundays  with  your  employer's  family.     Tins  will  keep  you    clear  of  a 
nest  of  vipers,  who  would  be  urging  you  to  go  to   tippling- houses  with 
them,    to  drink  whiskey,  and  talk  about  Ireland.     At  the  expiration  of 
the  year,  if  your  employer  is  pleased  with  your  conduct,  he  will  not  ba 
willing  to  part  with  you,  and  wdl  enter  into  engagements  Aith  you,  whic^i 
is  often  done  in  the  following  way,  viz. — He  will  point  out  toy.)u  a  cer- 
tain number  of  fields  to  be  cultivated,  some  to  be  under  wheat,  others  in 
rye,     Indian  corn,  oats,  &c. ;  he   will   find  horses,  and    farming  uten- 
sds,  and  furnish    boarding,  washing,  and    lodging,  during  that   year, 
and  when  the  harvest  is  taken  oif  the  ground,  he  has  tao-thirds  lor  hia. 
share,  and  you   have  one-third.     Your  share   of  wlieat,  rye,  Indian 
corn  or  any  other  produce  of  the  ground,  which  you  have   i'armed   i>< 
this  way,  you  will   always   meet  a  ready  market  for.    It  is  true,  you 
must  attend  early  and  late  to  your  work,  and  do  it  in  a  neat,  farming- 
like manner.     Pursuing  this  plan  of  industry  a  few  years,  you  may  save 
as  much  money  as  will  purchase  l.'JO  acres  of  land  m  tlie  state  of  Ohio, 
or  the  Indiana  territory,  or  any  other  part  of  these  new  states.     It  is 
necessary  to  guard  against  imposition  in  the  title,  as  titloi  are  very  un- 
cert^^in  in  some  places.     When  you  are  now  possessed  of  a  farm   of 
land  in  fee  simple,  clear  of  all   rents  and  annuities  for  ever,  the  next 
thing  to  be  done,  is  to  clear  t!ie  land  of  the  timber,  which  is  done  in 
the  following  manner  : — First  of  all,  the  underwood  has  all  to  be  taken 
up  by  the  root,  with  a  maddock  :  this  is  called  grubbing  :    every   sap- 
ling less  than  four  inches  in  diameter  must  be  taken  out,  and  piled  up  in 
heaps  and  burned.     When  this  is  done,  you  commence  cutting  down  the 
timber,  the  straightest  of  which,  after  being  cut  down,  is  measured  oft' 
in  lengths  of  11  feet,  so  far  as  the  body  of  the  tree  will  admit,  and  cut 
and  split  into  rails  of  about!  inches  in  diameter,  for  tlie  purpose  of  enclo- 
sures. All  other  timber  is  cut  down  and  raised  up  in  heaps  and  burned,  or 
hauled  ofl'tf'f  ground.  You  next  commence  budding  your  fjnco,  by  lay- 
ing three  rails  horizontally  on  the   ground,  with  one  end  resting  on  the 
other,  in  a  zigzag  manner,  forming  obtase  angles.     A  good  fence  re- 
quires to  be  at  least  7  rails  high.     When  this  is  done,  you  may  then 
enter  with  the  plough,  and  plant  your  ludian  corn,  or  wheat,  or  what- 
ever you  moan  to  phmt  in  the  field.     It  is  now  that  every  stroke  yon 
strike  is  for  your  own  advantage,  as  you  are  lord  of  this  property.     A 
log-house  and  barn  are  easily  built — your   neighbours   will   come  teu 
mues  to  help  you,  as  they  will  expect  like  favours  from  you  in  return. 
Eachyearyou  may  at  least  clear  8  or  10  acres, and  in  the  space  of  10  or 
I'i  years,  you  may  take  your  ease.     This  is  pointing  out  to  you  the  path 
that  industrious  men  have  pursued,  who  now  live  rich  and  mdependent. 
— And  I  am  confident,  tiuit  in  America,  without  the  most  close  ap- 
plication to  labour,  and  using  frugality,  land  is  not  attained,  by  thos« 


'it 
i 


m 


n 


i 


1    I 


022 


ALVICM    TO    EMlCr.lNTS. 


who  emigrate  to  that  country  destitute  of  fumls.  I  am  convinced  al- 
most to  a  certainty,  that  out  of  20  emigrants  from  Irdaad  tn  tho  Uiiit- 
It'd  States,  15  have  not  been  able  to  procure  one  foot  of  hmd  ,  b  it  this 
is  owing  to  their  own  bad  nmnagement. — In  many  instances  tiiey  are 
often  grossly  deceived  by  false  information,  relative  to  that  country, 
painting  to  them  advantages  that  never  existed,  and  when  the  poor  dis- 
appointed enii;;rant  lands  on  the  American  shore,  he  fiwds  his  golden 
views  have  taken  flight.  He  spends  his  time  in  broodiu^i  over  his  mis- 
fortunes till  his  money  is  gone,  and  then  he  must  wurk  or  starve;  and 
in  the  cities,  there  is  always  a  number  of  poor  emigrants,  that  will  not 
go  into  the  comitry.  The  streets  are  often  crowded  with  the.ij  looking 
for  work,  so  th.it  it  is  very  hard  to  obtain  work  for  a  stranger  tliat  is 
not  known.  The  last  resource  is  to  engage  to  work  upon  the  turnpike 
roads. — Here  the  labourer  will  get  one  dollar  per  day,  and  nnist  find 
himself  meat,  drink,  washing,  and  lodgini;.  Here  he  has  for  compan- 
ions the  i.iost  abandoned  drunken  wretches  tliat  are  in  existence,  and 
whose  example  he  must  follow,  or  be  he'd  in  derision  by  them.  The 
day's  work  is  tasked,  and  if  not  accomplished,  his  wages  are  jiocked ; 
this  sort  of  labour,  and  that  of  working  at  furnaces  and  forf^cs,  em- 
ploys a  groat  number  of  Irislimen.  I  have  known  many  hundreds  of 
them  who  have  wrought  in  this  way  for  more  than  30  vears,  who  at  this 
moment  cannot  put  a  good  coat  on  their  back,  and  now  are  old,  in- 
tirni,  and  past  labour. 

"  It  may  be  objected  by  some,  that  it  is  dangerous  to  go  to  the  fron- 
tier country,  on  a«count  of  the  Indians,  wild  beasts,  &c. ;  this  is  no 
more  than  a  scare-crow.  Indians  in  time  of  peace  are  perfectly  inof- 
fensive, and  every  dependence  may  be  placed  on  them.  If  you  call  at 
one  of  their  huts,  you  are  invited  to  partake  ef  what  they  have — they 
«;ven  will  divide  with  you  the  last  morsel  they  have,  if  they  were  starv- 
ing themselves,  and  while  you  remain  with  them  you  are  perfectly  safe, 
as  every  individual  of  them  would  lose  their  li"ves  in  your  defence. 
This  unfortunate  portion  of  the  human  race  has  not  been  treated  with 
that  degree  of  justice  and  tenderness,  which  people  calling  themselves 
Christians  ou^ht  to  have  exercised  towards  them.  Their  lands  have 
been  forcibly  taken  from  them  in  many  instances  without  rendering  them 
a  compensation,  and  in  their  wars  with  the  people  of  the  United  States, 
the  most  shocking  cruelties  have  been  exercised  towards  them.  I 
myself  fought  against  them  in  two  campaigns,  and  was  witness  to 
scenes,  a  repetition  of  which  would  chill  the  blood,  and  be  only  a  mo- 
nument of  disgrace  to  people  of  my  own  colour. 

*'  Being  in  tiie  neighbourhood  of  the  Indians  duringthe  time  of  peace, 
need  not  alarm  the  emigrant,  as  the  Indian  will  not  be  as  dangerous  to 
him,  as  idle  vagabonds  that  roam  the  woods  and  hunt.  He  has  more 
to  dread  from  these  people  of  his  own  colour,  than  from  tlie  Indians. 

"  I  have  now  given  my  advice  to  the  poi  >  single  man — I  shall  offer 
some  remarks  to  the  poor  man  who  has  a  family,  and  wishes  to  establish 
himself  in  the  country.  First,  on  landing,  make  no  stay  in  the  sea-port 
but  as  soon  as  circumstances  will  permit,  (as  1  hinied before,)  sell  ofl' 
every  thing  that  you  can  possibly  spare,  and  by  attending  the  horse- 
market,  you  uiuy  purchase  a  low  priced  horse,  winch  you  may  convey 
your  eftccts  on  ;  and  if  you  have  more  than  it  is  convenient  for  him  to 
carry,  you  will  always  find  farmer's  waggoi  s  going  back  into  the  coun- 
try, that  will  cany  it  for  you.    When  you  arrive  iu  the  wcitcra  country, 


l:- 


ADTICE   TO    EMIOnANTS. 


623 


your  best  way  to  act,  would  be  to  apply  to  some  wcaltliy  man,  who 
owns  large  quantities  of  land,  and  enter  into  ati  cngap;cnient  with  liini, 
on  a  lease  of  improvements — he  will  give  land  seven  years  on  tlie  fol- 
lowing terms : — that  is,  you  arc  obliged  to  clear  50  acres  of  tillable 
land,  and  ten  jicri-s  of  meadow,  build  a  log-house  and  barn,  and  all  you 
make  off  the  land  is  your  own.  I  have  known  many,  who  at  the  ex- 
piration of  the  term  had  decL'ntly  maintiiined  their  ihinilics,  and  Inul 
put  up  seven  or  ciL;ht  hundred  dollars),  arising  from  the  sale  of  grain 
and  cattle,  and  were  able  to  move  further  back  and  purcliase  land,  as  I 
have  before  mentioned  ;  and  now,  likely,  your  littlo  family  is  grown  up, 
and  able  to  render  you  a  great  assistance,  clearing  your  hmd,  and  en- 
abling you  to  be  comfortable  in  the  evening  of  life. 

"  My  advice  to  mechanics  is,  to  j  ush  back,  and  take  residence  in 
some  of  the  inland  towns;  and  as  new  counties  are  every  year  *livid- 
ing  oil',  and  towns  pitched  upon  to  be  the  seat  of  justice  for  these 
couiities,  work  for  all  kinds  of  mechanics  is  plenty,  and  monry  suHi- 
cicnt  may  soon  be  earned,  to  purchase  a  lot  in  one  of  tlKse  town^, 
where  y(iu  may,  in  a  short  time,  be  enabled  to  build  a  house  on  yoiu* 
own  property,  and  have  no  rent  to  pay.  In  the^e  towns  you  will  have 
an  opportunity  of  educating  your  cliildren,  and  putting  them  to  tradts 
at  a  proper  time.  13ut  1  am  sorry  to  say,  most  oi'  thu  tradesmen  would 
suffer  cold  and  hunger,  even  death  itself,  rather  than  go  from  New 
York  or  Philadelphia,  into  the  country. 

There  is  a  number  of  young  men  who  leave  Ireland  and  go  to  Ameri- 
ca, intending  to  be  clerks  or  merchants.  Of  all  classes  of  people,  I 
can  give  these  the  least  encouragement.  We  have  ten  people  of  this 
description,  where  we  cannot  get  employment  for  one,  particularly  at 
tiiistime,  when  all  kinds  of  trade  in  the  United  States  are  at  so  low  an 
ebb. 

"  I  will  now  take  notice  of  the  man  who  emigrates  to  America,  and 
has  money  with  him,  and  means  to  become  a  farme  •.     First,  it  is  neces- 
sary to  mention  the  price  of  land.     East  of  the  mountains,  good  land 
will  not  be  bought  under  from  80  to  120  dollars  per  acre,  wherci  therir 
are  good  improvements — other  lands  may  rate  from  5  dollars  to  a  highc.' 
amount,  according  to  the  quality  of  the  lanel,    and  the  impro^'ement* 
made  thereon.     Land  at  a  lower  rate  than  this,  is  imt  an  obj;.'ct  of  pur- 
chase, as  the  soil  is  so  thin  and  poor,  that  a  living  cannot  be  made  on  it, 
without  ntanuring  every  other  year  with  dung  or  plaster  of  Paris.  West 
of  the  mountains,  in  all  the  old  settlements,  land  may  I)e  bought  from 
SO  dollars  per  acre  to  two   dollars.     In   the  state  of  Ohio,    and   other 
T)t'w  countries,  vt^ry  good  land  may  be  bought  at  two  dollars  per  acre, 
but  this  land  is  in  a  state  of  nature,  and  tar  distant  from  any  inhabi- 
tai<t«.     I  am  well  acquainted  with  people  who  are  improving  plantations, 
that  are  si:-:  milei  distant  from  their  nearest  neighbour.    This,  hon-ever, 
Ihey  conceive  no  inconvenience,  as  their  neighbour*"^  cattle  do  not  trou- 
ble tliem,  and  the  pea  vine  and  pasture  in  tlie  woods  are  so  luxuriant, 
added  to  a  short  mild  winter,  that  they  have  it  in  their  power  to  raise 
;;ny  quartity  of  horses,  horned  cattle,    hogs,  &c.     whieli  they  please; 
these  animals  will  provide  for  themselves  during  the  year,  without  any 
•attention  being  paid  to  them,  except  giving  them  s.dt  once  a  week,  and 
%\i:en  old  enough  to  sell,  they  always  meet  with  a  good  market— but 
ll.'is  continues  only  a  few  years,  as  neighbours  are  daily  settling  around, 
and  in  a  short  time  thepnsture  in  the  woods  is  cut  down,  and  the  cattle 
n.uktb'j  tiikeu  into  the  fields,  and  fed  during  the  winter. 


ill 


iii 


1 1 


li 


i 


6«4 


ADVICE    TO    r  MICH  ANTS. 


A  gootl  mark  it  is  always  to  be  liad  in  thtsc  ucw  countries,  on  ac- 
count of  miigrunts  8ettling,who  want  all  that  the  farmers  have  to  spare  ; 
KO  that  the  lirst  srttli  rs  always  have  the  advantage,  and  commonly 
become  licli  men.  All  lands  purcliasetl  in  this  country  are  in  fee  simple, 
and  clear  of  all  rent  .'indanniiitits  for  ever. 

"  As  to  mercantile  men  emij^rating  to  this  part  of  the  world,  they 
have  their  own  diiliculties  us  well  as  others.  It  they  open  in  the  whole- 
sale way,  they  have  commonly  to  give  six  months  credit  to  country 
merchants,  who  make  their  purchases  generally  every  fall  and  spring; 
that  is,  what  they  purchase  in  the  spring  is  payable  in  the  fall — and  that 
bought  in  the  full  payable  in  the  spring  ;  though  it  is  seldom  that  these 
engagements  are  punctually  fulfilled,  and  riders  and  collectors  are  al- 
ways out  dunning,  and  often  bringing  suits  at  law,  for  the  recovery  of 
their  mom-y  — (Hoods  are  generally  sold  at  a  large  profit,  when  bought 
on  credit,  u:ul  il'the  merchant  has  a  capital  to  support  him,  and  forms 
a  connexion  with  punctual  country  merchants,  he  is  in  a  fair  way  to  do 
well. 

♦*  I  shall  now  make  a  ft  \v  general  remarks. — The  description  I  have 
been  making  ol"  A  merit;),  is  confined  to  the  United  States.  Upper  and 
Lower  Canada  btlonj.f8  to  the  British  Government,  as  also  Nova  Scotia. 
8ince  the  p^r.ceof  17S;5,  many  hundreds  offaniilies  have  noUl  their  land 
in  the  Northern  States,  and  went  into  Upper  Canada,  and  there  obtained 
titles  from  the  English  (Joverument,  for  lands  of  the  first  quality,  hav- 
ing to  pay  only  a  mere  iriHe;  and  it  is  well  known  that  at  least  three- 
fourths  of  the  inhabitants  ci'  Upper  Canada  are  composed  of  emigrants 
from  the  United  Stfitcs-,  or  tlie  descendants  of  sudi.  The  question  will 
be  asked,  what  is  the  rta.^on  thai  people  living  under  a  republican  form 
of  goverment,  sliould  transplant  themselves,  and  take  refuge  under  a 
monarchical? 

*  There  are  several  reasons  that  may  be  ae'signed.  First,  during  the  re- 
volution, a  number  of  royalists,  whose  property  was  confiscated  by  the 
Government  of  the  United  State's,  removed  to  Upper  Canada,  and  ob- 
tained land  from  the  Jjiitish  (n)VLrnment.  The  descendants  of  these 
people  now  occupy  tlicse  hinds,  uufl  are  in  easy  circumstances.  Ano- 
ther reason  is  tli:>t  t!ie  l.ind  in  the  Eastern  States  is  generally  poor  thin 
toil ;  whereas,  Upper  Canaiiu  is  more  fertile,  and  land  obtainf.'d  for  little 
or  iioiliin^,  ai  d  the  fleets  and  army  of  the  mother  country  able  to  pro- 
tict  liietn  both  at  home  and  abr(»ad,  with  full  liberty  of  the  fisheries  on 
the  Hanks  of  Newfoundland,  which  we  enjoyed  a  right  or  privilege  to 
|)rovi,  us  to  tile  late  war,  but  is  not  granted  to  us  now.  \V  e  have  also 
been  much  tui  iciiled  in  the  East  India  trade,  by  the  late  peace  with 
(ireat  1  rituin.  Another  reason  that  may  be  assigned  for  people  of  thu 
I'nited  States  moving  into  Canada,  is  that  taxes  are  very  light  in  Canada, 
V  hcreas  at  present  in  the  United  States  taxation  is  heavy.  Add  to 
this  the  violent  contention  and  party  spirit  that  prevails,  which  is  always 
disgusting  and  disagreeaUlo  to  sober,  industrious,  well-disposed  citizens, 
and  ever  has  the  tendency  to  weaken  the  fqrcc  of  the  country.  Had 
the  Anitricuns  been  fully  united  in  sentiment,  as  to  the  propriety  of  the 
last  war,  Canada  would  have  been  taken  the  first  campaign.  Although 
the  Canadians  uic  very  loyal,  and  fought  with  unexampled  courage,  yet 
they  would  have  been  overwhelmed  with  numbers.  Since  the  peace, 
the  emigration  to  Canada  has  been  very  great,  and  that  country  is  set- 
tling very  fast.  There  has  also  been  an  emigration  from  the  Southern 
states  into  the  Spunish  province  of  East  Florida,  wrterc  they  have  settle''' 


HINTS   TO    EMIGRANTS.  623 

liiemsclves,  and  taken  the  oatli  ot'allcgiiincc  to  the  Spanish  (lovcrnmcnt. 

'•  It  is  to  be  hopcii  tliat  those  feuds  atid  animosities  that  have  liithcrto 
existed  will  now  be  shortly  done  away,  and  tliat  the  unthinking  class  of 
people  who  had  urged  on  the  war,  have  now  suffered  a  disnnpointmnnt, 
and  been  the  means  oriouding  the  country  with  a  national  debt,  and  by 
no  means  have  bettered  their  own  circumstances,  will  be  convinced  of 
their  error. 

"  The  Americana,  in  general,  are  a  brave  and  generous  people,  well 
informed,  hospitable,  and  kind  ;  it  would  be,  therefore,  the  duty  of  emi- 
grants when  settled  in  tliat  country,  not  to  be  the  first  to  lend  a  hand  ir» 
«listurbing  the  peace  of  the  country — it  is  the  height  of  ingratitude,  an 
they  oi^ht  to  consider  that  tliev  have  been  received,  and  granted  the 
rights  of  citizenship  ;  it  is  their  duty,  therefore,  to  lend  a  hand  to  no- 
thing that  niny  be  injurious  to  their  adopted  country.  1  hope  Irish  emi- 
grants when  they  arrive  will  cop^  after  some  of  the  rules  and  instruc- 
tions I  have  pointed  out,  which,  it  it  should  turn  out  to  their  advantage, 
as  I  hope  it  may,  would  truly  be  a  great  happiness  and  gratification  to 
their  countryman  and  friend, 

Clements  BunLEicii." 


HINTS  TO  EMIGRANTS  FROM  EUROPE, 

il  ho  intend  to  viake  a  permanent  residence  in  the  United  States  of  Ame- 
rica  ;  puintinfr  out  the  most  advfmtafreous  places  of  settlement,  and  giv- 
ing dircctiunsjbr  the  hest  means  o/'piescrving  health, 

1  HAT  hospitality  which,  as  Mr.  Jefferson  says,  the  savages  of  the  wil- 
derness extended  to  the  first  settlers  arriving  in  this  land,  cannot  be  de- 
nied  by  afree,  civilized,  and  Christian  people,  to  brethren  emigrating 
from  the  countries  of  their  common  fathers ;  and  the  exercise  of  it  is  pe- 
culiarly agreeable  to  us,  who  have  (some  of  us)  been  induced,  by  a  si- 
milarity of  fate  and  fortunes  with  your  own,  to  quit  the  lands  of  our  na- 
tivity, and  seek  freedom  and  happiness  in  America.  That  hospitality 
which  the  wild  Arab  never  violates,  and  which  the  American  Indian  si» 
often  exercises  to  strangers  ;  that  sacred  virtue  is  dear  to  our  hearts, 
which  we  open  to  address  you  in  the  frankness  of  friendship  and  since- 
rity of  truth.  We  bid  you  welcome  to  a  land  ot  freedom  ;  we  applaud 
your  resolution  ;  wc  commend  your  judgment  in  asserting  the  right  of 
expatriation;  a  right  acknowledged  and  practised  by  people  of  all  na- 
tions, from  the  earliest  ages  to  the  present  time;  a  fight  indispensable 
to  liberty  and  happiness,  and  which  ought  never  to  be  surrendered. 
The  free  states  once  established  in  Asia  recogniied  it;  Gicece  adopted. 
it.  Emigration  Ironi  thence  was  uncontrouled;  and  naturalization,  which 
puts  the  emigrant,  civilly,  on  a  level  with  the  .  ative,  was  there  a  thing 
of  course.  The  Homans  avowed  and  vindicated  the  right  in  all  its  lati- 
tude; and  this  memorable  declaration  composed  part  of  their  code  ■: 
**  Every  man  has  a  ri^ii^lit  to  choose  the  slate  to  which  he  will  belong." 
It  is  a  law  of  nature,  that  we  may  go  whither  we  list  to  promote  our 
happiness.  It  is  thus,  indeed,  that  the  arts,  scietices,  laws,  and  civiliza- 
lion  itself,  have  journeved,  ■.vith  colonies,  from  one  region  to  auothcr, 

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33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MSSO 

(716)  872-4503 


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G26 


HINTS  TO    RMIGRAKTt 


from  Abla  and  Egypt  to  Europe,  and  from  Europe  to  America.  In 
making  this  cuuiitry  your  home,  your  clioice  does  you  honour;  and  we 
doubt  not  but  your  conduct  will  be  equally  correct,  judicious,  and  ho- 
nourable. That  the  laws  and  institutions  of  America  may  be  from  this 
moment  the  objects  of  your  constant  respect,  wc  will  quote  what  an 
J'iuropean  philosopher  has  said  of  America  as  compared,  politically,  with 
Europe!  "  Whikt  almost  all  the  nations  of  Europe,"  says  the  Abb6  de 
Mably,  "  are  ignorant  of  the  conitituent  principles  of  society,  a^^d  regard 
the  people  as  beasts  of  a  farm,  cultivated  for  the  benefit  of  the  owner, 
we  are  astonished,  we  are  edified,  that  your  thirteen  republics  should 
know,  at  once,  the  dignity  of  man,  and  should  have  drawn  from  the 
nources  of  the  wisest  philosophy  the  principles  by  which  they  ar^  dispos- 
ed to  be  governed.*' 

Even  in  your  state  of  probation  here,  as  aliens,  you  will  soon  perceive 
that  the  laws  (and  ours  is  a  governiiient  of  laws)  are  made  by  the  will 
of  the  people  through  agents  called  representatives.  The  will  of  a  ma- 
jority passes  for,  and  requires  the  consent  of  all.  Entire  acquiescence 
in  the  decisions  of  the  majority  is  the  vital  principle  of  republics,  from 
which  there  is  no  legitimate  appeal ;  for  resistance  to  those  decisions  is 
an  appeal  to  force,  the  vital  pruieiplc  and  immediate  parent  of  despotism. 
Jt  is  a  fundamental  truth  in  nature,  and  for  those  not  held  in  servitude, 
it  is  law  in  America,  that  men  are  born  equal,  and  endowed  with  una* 
lienable  rights,  of  which  they  can  neither  divest  themselves,  nor  be  de* 
prived  by  others.  Slaves  may  be  ruled  by  the  will  of  one,  or  a  few ; 
but  freemen  are  governed  only  by  the  general  will. 

Strangeisas  you  are,  you  may  derive  benefit  from  the  counsel  and 
{guidance  of  friends.  If  one  who  has  gone  the  road  you  are  about  to 
travel,  by  only  showing  you  hoM  it  winds  beyond  the  next  hill,  does  you 
an  act  of  civility,  how  much  more  important  would  be  some  information 
that  must  influence  your  welfare  and  future  fortune?  And  when  you 
reflect  that  circumstances  apparently  trivial  may  make  the  one  or  mar 
the  other,  you  will  not  disregard  a  communication  which  relates  to  the 
business  of  life. 

AU  that  a  first  conversation  with  an  emigrant  can  properly  embracQi- 
will  fall  under  three  heads: 

I.  What  relates  to  his  personal  safety  in  a  new  climate; 

II.  H:s  interests  as  a  probationary  resident ;  and 

III.  Ilis  future  rightt  and  duties  as  a  member  of  a  free  state. 
Under  the  first  will  be  comprised  some   directions  for  your  mode 

of  living,  and  the  pretiervation  of  your  health.  The  second  would  de* 
mand  some  description  of  this  extensive  country,  which  may  direct  your 
choice  and  industry.  Under  the  third  should  be  contained  a  Lrief  ab> 
street  of  such  civil  or  political  matters  as  behoves  you  to  understand. 
I.  Emigrants  from  Europe  usually  arrive  here  during  summer,  and, 
every  thing  considered,  it  is  best  they  should ;  for  in  the  middle  and 
eastern  states  the  winter  is  long,  fuel  very  dear,  and  ctr-ployment  compa- 
ratively scarce  at  that  season.  In  wititci  they  will  expend  more  and 
cam  ie&s.  But  if  arriving  at  this  time  bear  uior^'  upon  their  pocket,  the 
heats  of  the  summer  are  undoubtedly  more  trying  to  their  health.  In 
the  middle  states,  namely.  New  York,  New  Jcr.^ey,  Pennsylvania,  and 
Maryland,  a  northern  European  usually  finds  the  climate  intensely  hot 
irom  about  the  tuiddle  of  June  until  toward?-  the  first  ol'October.  The 
theimooicter  frequently  ranges  ft  urn  Sf  to  90,  uad  sometiiucs  above  it 


niNTS  TO  EVItPANTSi  C27 

in  the  middle  part  of  the  day  ;  this  to  a  stranger  who  works  in  the 
open  air,  exposed  to  the  burnint;  sun,  is  certainly  dangerous,  and  re* 
quires  some  precautions  on  his  part. 

First  of  all,  he  should  regulate  his  diet,  and  be  temperate  in  ths 
quantity  of  his  food.  The  American  lubourer  or  working  tnec'ianir, 
who  I'.as  a  better  and  more  plentiful  table  than  any  ot!ier  im\n  in  the 
world  of  ills  class  is,  for  the  most  part  a  small  eater,  and  we  rccoin- 
nicnd  to  you  his  example.  The  Europciin  of  tli:;  suine  condition,  >v!io 
receives  meat  or  fish,  and  coffee,  at  breakfast,  meat  at  dinner,  aiul 
meat  or  fish,  and  tea,  at  supper,  an  abundance  of  animal  food  to  wlticU 
he  was  unaccustomed,  insen&ibly  falls  i;itoa  8tn^e  of  toogre.it  repletion, 
which  exposes  him  to  the  worst  kind  of  fever  during  the  heats  of  snni- 
mcr  and  autumn.  He  should,  therefore,  be  quite  as  abstemious  in 
the  quantity  of  food,  as  of  strong  drink  ;  and,  in  addition  to  this  nie« 
thod  of  preventing  sickness,  he  should  take  a  dose  of  active  pliysic, 
every  now  and  then,  especially  in  the  hotter  months  of  July  and  Ai- 
gust.  By  this  prudent  course  an  ardent  climate  will  have  no  terror*, 
and  after  some  residence  here  he  may  preserve  Iiis  health  by  regiuicu 
and  exercise  alone. 

The  labourer  or  mechanic  should  put  off  his  ordinary  clothes,  and 
wear  next  his  skin  a  loose  flannel  shirt,  while  he  works  ;  it  should  be 
taken  off  again  when  he  has  done. 

The  stranger  as  well  as  native  must  be  particuliarly  careful  not  to 
drink  cold  water  after  being  heated  by  exposure  to  the  sun  or  exercise. 
Sudden  and  severe  pain  at  the  stomach,  and  even  death,  are  tW  quent- 
ly  the  consequences  of  such  imprudence.  The  humane  Society  of 
this  city  has  published  the  following  directions  to  be  observed  in  such 
cases ; 

1st.  Avoid  drinking  water  while  the  body  is  heated,  or  during  pro- 
fuse perspiration. 

2d.  Wash  the  hands  and  face  with  cold  water  before  drinkinrr. 
3d.  If  these  precautions   have  been  neglected,  and  cramps  or  con- 
vulsions have  been  induced,  let  a  tea-spoonful  of  laudanum  he  given 
immediately  in  a  cup  of  spirits  and  water,  and  repeat  tiic  dose  in  half 
an  hour,  if  necessary. 

^th.  At  the  same  time  apply  hot  fomentations  of  spirits  and  wutcr 
to  the  stomach  and  bowels,  and  to  the  lower  extremities,  cuvering  the 
body  witli  a  blanket,  or  immerse  the  body  in  a  warm  bath,  if  it  can 
be  immediately  obtained. 

.'ith.  Inject  into  the  bowels  a  pint  of  warm  spirits  and  water,  mixed 
in  the  proportion  of  one  part  oi  the  former  to  two  of  the  latter. 

II.  Do  you  ask  by  this  time,  with  a  view  to  the  ordinary  business  of 
life,  What  is  America?  What  sort  of  people  may  expect  to  succeed 
in  it?  The  immortal  Franklin  has  answered  these  (juestions.  "  America 
is  the  land  of  labour."  But  it  is,  emphatically,  the  best  country  on 
earth  for  those  who  will  labour.  By  industry  tliey  can  ejrn  more  wa^os 
here  than  elsewhere  in  the  world.  Our  governments  are  frugal,  they 
demand  few  taxes ;  so  that  the  earnings  of  the  poor  man  are  left  to 
enrich  himself;  they  are  nearly  all  his  own. 

Idlers  are  out  of  their  element  here,  and  the  bein^  who  is  techni- 
cally called  a  man  of  rank  in  Europe,  is  despicable  m  America,  lla 
must  become  an  useful  member  of  society,  or  he  will  find  no  society  : 
he  will  be  shunned  by  all  decent  people.  Franklin,  whose  sarxe  counsel 


Pi 


628  HINTS   TO    EMIGRANTS. 

is  the  beet  that  can  be  given  or  observed,  has  said,  that  it  is  not  QiU 
visiible  for  a  person  to  come  hither  "  who  has  no  other  quality  to  re- 
coinnuMid  him  but  his  birtli.  In  Europe,  indeed,  it  may  have  its  value, 
bat  it  is  a  commodity  wliich  cannot  be  carried  to  a  worse  market  than 
that  of  America,  where  people  do  not  inquire  concerning  a  stranger, 
What  is  he?  but,  What  can  he  do :  If  he  has  any  useful  art,  he  is  wel- 
come, and  if  he  exercises  it,  and  behaves  well,  ha  will  be  respected 
by  all  that  know  him.  The  husbandman  is  in  honour  here,  and  so  ii 
the  mechanic,  because  their  employments  are  useful."  And  the  peo- 
ple," he  adds,  "  have  a  saying,  that  '  God  Almighty  is  himself  a  me- 
chanic, the  greatest  in  the  universe.'  "  Franklin  farther  illustrates  the 
generality  of  industrious  habits  by  tlie  Negro's  observation,  that  '  the 
white  man  makes  the  blackman  work,  the  horses  work,  the  oxen  work, 
and  every  thing  work  except  the  hog,  which  alone  walks  about,  goes 
to  sleep  when  he  pleases,  and  lives  like  a  gcnileman.' 

♦*  The  only  encouragement  we  hold  out  to  strangers  are  a  good  cli- 
mate, fertile  soil,  wholesome  air  and  water,  plenty  of  provisions,  good 
pay  for  labour,  kind  neighbours,  good  laws,  a  free  government,  and  a 
hearty  welcome.  T*ie  rest  depends  on  a  man's  own  industry  and  virtue." 

It  would  be  very  prudent  for  new  comers,  especially  labourers  or 
farmers,  to  go  into  the  country  without  delay,  as  they  will  save  both 
njoney  and  time  by  it,  and  avoid  several  inconveniencies  of  a  seaport 
town.  By  spending  some  time  with  an  American  fttrmer,  in  any  capa- 
city, they  will  learn  the  method  of  tillage,  or  working  a  plantation, 
peculiar  to  this  country.  No  time  can  be  more  usefully  employed 
than  a  year  in  this  manner.  In  that  space,  any  smart,  stout  man  can 
learn  how  woodland  may  be  cleared,  how  cleared  land  is  managed  ;  he 
vi'iW  acquire  some  knowledge  of  crops  and  their  succession,  of  usages 
aind  customs  that  ouglit  to  be  known,  and  perhaps  save  something  into 
the  bargain.  Many  European  emigrants  who  brought  money  with  them 
have  heretofore  taken  this  wise  course,  and  found  it  greatly  to  their  ad- 
vantage ;  for,  at  the  end  of  the  year,  they  knew  what  to  do  with  it. 
Tiiey  had  learned  the  value  of  lands  in  old  settlements  and  near  th(* 
frontiers,  the  price  of  labour,  cattle,  and  grain,  and  were  ready  to  be- 
gin the  world  with  ardour  and  confidence.  Multitudes  of  poor  people, 
trom  Ireland,  Scotland,  and  Germany,  have,  by  these  means,  together 
with  industry  and  frugality,  become  wealthy  farmers,  or,  as  they  arc 
called  in  Europe,  estated  men,  who,  in  their  own  countries,  where  all 
the  lands  are  fully  occupied,  and  the  wages  of  labour  low,  could  never 
have  emerged  from  the  condition  wherein  they  were  born. 

In  the  west  of  Pennsylvania,  there  is  a  custom  which  the  farmers 
there  call  cropping,  and  which  is  as  beneficial  to  the  owner  as  to  the 
tiller  of  the  ground,  in  the  present  state  of  this  country.  The  cropper 
performs  the  labour  of  the  plantation,  as  spring  and  fall  ploughings, 
sowing,  harrowing,  or  other  work,  and  receives  a  certain  share  of  the 
crop,  as  agreed  on,  for  his  pains.  But  he  must  be  an  expert  farmer  be- 
fore he  can  undertake,  or  be  intrusted  with,  the  working  of  the  farm. 
None  but  a  poor  man  undertakes  it,  and  that  only  until  he  can  save 
money  to  buy  land  of  his  own. 

It  is  invariably  the  practice  of  the  American,  and  well  suited  to  hi* 
love  of  independence,  to  purchase  a  piece  of  land  as  soon  as  he  can, 
and  tu  cultivate  his  own  farm,  rather  than  hve  at  wages.  It  is  equally  n\ 
the  power  of  an  emigrant  to  do  the  same,  after  a  lew  years  of  labour 


\ 


HINTS  TO    EMIGRANTS. 


C'lO 


tnd  econorjiy.  From  that  moment  he  secures  all  the  means  oF  happi- 
ness. He  lias  a  sutficiency  of  fortune,  without  heinj^  exempt  iVom  mo- 
derate labour ;  he  feels  the  comfort  of  indepentlence,  aiul  h\s  no  fi-ar 
of  poverty  in  hi.s  old  age.  He  is  invested  with  the  poWfCrs  a.s  wi;ll  as 
the  rights  of  a  ficcman,  and  may  in  all  casis,  without,  let  or  iipprc- 
hcnsion,  exercise  them  according,'  to  his  judsjinont.  He  can  aH\,rd  ta 
bis  children  a  good  education,  ami  knows  thiit  he  has  tlit-roby  provided 
for  their  wants.  Prospects  open  to  them  fur  brighter  than  were  iiis  o.v  d, 
and  in  seeing  all  this  he  is  surely  blest. 

Industrious  men  need  never  luck  employment  in  America  Labour- 
ers, carpenters,  masons,  bricklayers,  stonecutters,  blackMnitlis,  turn. 
ers,  weavers,  farmers,  curriers,  tailors,  and  shoemakers,  and  t!j(!  use- 
ful mechanics  generally,  are  always  sure  of  work  and  wiiges.  Stone- 
cutters now  receive,  in  this  city,  (New  York,)  two  dollars  n  d.iy, 
equal  to  nine  shillings  sterling;  carpenters,  one  dollar  and  eigl:ty« 
«even  and  a  half  cent!" ;  bricklayers,  two  dollars  ;  labourers,  from  one 
dollar  to  one  and  a  (juarter;  others  in  proportion.  At  this  tinu?,  (July, 
181G,)  house-carpenters,  bricklayers,  masons,  and  stonecutters,  are 
paid  three  dollars  per  day  in  Petersburg!!,  Virginia.  The  town  wa« 
totally  consumed  by  fire  about  a  year  since,  but  it  is  now  rising  from  its 
ashes  in  more  elegance  than  ever.  Mechanics  will  iind  ample  eni])loy- 
ment  there  for  perhaps  two  years  to  come. 

Artisans  receive  better  pay  in  America  th'an  in  Europe,  and  can  live 
with  less  exertion,  and  more  camfort ;  because  they  put  an  additional 
price  on  their  work,  equal  to  tiie  cost  of  i'reight  ami  commission  charg- 
ed by  the  merchant  on  importations.  But  there  are  not  many  of  tht2 
Jaborious  classes  whom  we  would  advise  to  reside  or  even  loiter  in 
great  towns,  because  as  much  will  bu  spent  during  a  long  winter  as  can 
be  made  through  a  toilsome  summer,  so  that  a  man  may  be  kept  a 
moneyless  orudge  for  life.  But  this  is  not  perhaps  the  worst ;  he  in 
tempted  to  become  a  tippler,  by  the  cheapness  and  plenty  of  liquors, 
and  then  his  prospects  are  blasted  for  ever.  In  tew  countries  is  drunken  • 
ness  more  despised  than  in  this.  The  drunkard  is  viewed  as  a  person 
socially  dead,  shut  out  from  decent  intercourse,  shunned,  despised,  or 
abhorred.  The  pernicious  habit  is  to  be  guarded  against  as  scrupulouti- 
ly  for  political  as  moral  considerations.  Civil  liberty  every  where  rests 
on  sel/'  respect,  while  degradation  or  voluntary  debasement  is  one  of 
the  causes  of  despotism.  These  remarks  are  general ;  we  have  no  rea- 
son to  suppose  that  one  people  are  more  ignorant  than  another  of  monil 
duty  or  propriety.  It  deserves  notice  that  two  sister  slates  have  made 
laws  vesting  the  estate  of  an  habitual  drunkard  in  trustees ;  and  it  has 
been  proposed  to  deprive  such  persons  of  suffrage  and  the  privilege  of 
giving  evidence  in  courts  of  justice.  An  ancient  lawgiver  was  even 
more  severe ;  he  affixed  a  double  penalty  to  crimes  committed  in  a  stats 
of  intoxication.  Jb'uch  have  been  the  methods  of  legislators  to  preserve 
the  dignity  of  man. 

Men  of  science,  who  can  apply  their  knowledge  to  useful  and  prar- 
•tical  purposes,  may  be  very  advantageously  settled  ;  but  mere  literary 
scholars,  who  have  no  profession,  or  only  one  which  they  cannot  profit- 
ably practise  in  this  country,  do  not  meet  with  much  encouragement ; 
in  truth,  with  little  or  none,  unless  they  are  willing  to  devote  them- 
ijclves  to  the  education  of  youth.  The  demand  for  persons  who  will 
do  this  Is  obviously  increasing  :  and  although  many  excellent  preccp" 


630 


niNTS  TO   1MI0RANT3. 


tors  are  every  where  to  be  found  among  the  native  Americans,  there  is 
itill  considerable  room  for  competition  on  the  part  of  well  qualifiud  fo. 
reigners.  In  the  seminaries  for  classical  education,  it  is  very  com- 
mon to  find  the  preceptors  natives  of  Ireland,  and  the  same  may  be 
said  of  the  mathematical  schools.  In  the  rvouthcrn  states,  where  a 
thin  population  is  spread  over  an  extensive  country,  good  schools  are 
comparatively  few  ;  but  there  arc  rich  planters  in  those  districts,  in 
Hrhoso  families  foreigners  of  genteel  address  and  good  knowledge  of  the 
classics,  English,  and  arithmetic,  will  Bnd  employment,  and  a  good  sa- 
lary, as  private  tutors.  It  does  not  detract  from  a  man's  personal  re- 
spectability  to  have  been  thus  employed.  The  Americans  are  too  wise 
to  treat  that  condition  as  mean,  which  is  essential  to  the  honour  and 
prosperity  of  the  nation,  and  which  supposes  in  its  professor  natural 
talents  and  acquired  knowledge.  It  is  not  unusual,  in  this  country,  to 
see  young  men  who  taught  school  until  they  had  accumulated  some 
property,  and  who  then  turn  to  the  professions  of  law,  physic,  or  di* 
vinity,  or  else  become  farmers  or  merchants.  The  practice  and  feel- 
ings of  the  Americans,  in  this  particular,  may  be  judged  from  the  fact, 
that  many  gentlemen,  who  begin  their  career  as  schoolmasters,  pass 
through  all  the  grudatfons  of  state  honours,  are  appointed  to  foreign 
embassies,  promoted  to  the  head  of  departments  of  the  federal  govern- 
ment, and  have  as  good  prospects  as  others  of  attaining  the  Presiden- 
cy. Several  instances  of  this  nature  might  be  quoted  from  this  unpre- 
judiced people. 

In  w  hat  part  of  this  extensive  country  may  an  emigrant  from  the 
northern  or  western  parts  of  Europe  most  advantageously  settle  ?  If 
he  be  undecided  until  his  arrival,  his  choice  will  be  agreeably  perplex- 
ed or  suspended  by  the  different  invitations  offered  by  various  sections 
of  this  empire.  It  covers  an  area  between  the  31st  and  -Kith  deerees  of 
north  latitude,  and  from  the  Atlantic  ocean  to  the  westward  indefinite- 
ly. In  time  our  settlements  will  reach  the  borders  of  the  PaciBc.  The 
productions  of  the  soil  are  as  various  as  the  climate.  The  middle  states 
produce  grain  of  all  kinds;  Maryland  and  Virginia  afford  wheat  and 
tobacco;  North  Carolina,  naval  stores  ;  and  South  Carolina  and  Geor- 
gia, rice,  cotton,  indigo,  and  tobacco  :  to  these  products,  Louisiana  and 
Slississippi  add  sugar  and  indigo,  which  are  now  cultivated  in  Georgia 
likewise.  Tennessee,  Kentucky,  Indiana  and  Ohio  are  productive  of 
the  principal  part  of  the  foregoing  staples,  together  with  hemp,  coal, 
and  such  plants  as  are  found  in  the  northern  and  middle  states,  to  the 
eastward  of  the  Allecany  mountains.  Over  this  great  tract,  tie  finest 
fruits  grow  in  perfection  ;  grain  of  every  sort  is  in  plenty  ;  and  «•  he 
who  puts  a  seed  into  the  earth  is  recompensed,  perhaps,  by  receiving 
forty  out  of  it."  We  are  of  opinion  that  those  parts  of  the  United 
States  between  the  35tli  and  43d,  or  37th  and  4<2d  degrees  of  north 
latitude,  will  be  found  most  congenial  to  the  constitutions  of  Europe^ 
ans.  New- York,  (principally)  Pennsylvania,  Maryland,  Virginia,  Ken- 
tucky, Ohio,  Indiana,  the  Illinois  and  Missouri  territories,  are  spread 
within  these  parallels.  As  the  European  is  more  patient  of  cold  than 
of  heat,  he  will  be  apt  to  prefer  the  middle  and  western,  or  north- 
western states  to  the  southern^  There  he  will  form  connexions  with 
inhabitants  whose  manners  most  resemble  his  own.  In  some  one  of 
them  we  would  advise  him,  after  a  proper  examination,  to  pitch  his 
tent,  and  fix  his  residence. 


f>. 


HINTS  TO    EMIGRANTS.  63  i 

Farther  to  the  south,  wFiere  negro  slaves  arc  the  only,  or  principal 
labourers,  some  white  men  think  it  disreputable  to  follow  the  plough. 
Far  be  it  from  us  to  cast  censure  on  our  southern  neighbours ;  yet,  in 
choosing  a  settlement,  we  would  have  emigrants  take  slavery,  with  all 
other  circumstances,  into  their  consideration. 

It  is  the  opinion  of  some  judicious  men,  that  though  persons  newly 
arrived  ought  to  go  without  loss  of  time  into  the  country,  yet  it  would 
not  be  prudent  for  them  to  retire  all  at  once  to  the  rcinote  parts  of 
the  west ;  that  they  ought  to  stop  nearer  the  sea-board,  and  learn  a  lit* 
tic  of  the  mode  of  doing  business.  Perhaps  tliis,  in  some  instances, 
may  be  adviseablc ;  but  we  think  that  young  men,  whose  habits  are 
not  fixed,  tannot  post  too  speedily  to  the  line  regions  beyond  the  Alle* 
gany.  The  labourer,  however,  will  find  great  difFerence  between  thctn 
and  Europe  in  every  thing.  The  man  who  was  accustomed  to  the 
spade,  must  now  use  the  axe ;  he  who  used  to  dij^  ditcht8,  will  learn  tu 
maul  rails  and  make  fences.  These  are  extremes  that  must  be  met ; 
and  the  sooner,  perhaps,  the  better. 

We  omit  annexing  to  these  directions  a  table  of  roads ;  as  almanacs 
are  every  where  to  be  had  for  a  trifle,  an«l  they  contain  accurate  lists, 
with  the  principal  stages  from  east  to  west  ;'*  there  arc  also  people  aU 
ways  wilhng  to  direct  the  stranger  on  his  path. 

If  a  European  has  previously  resolved  to  go  to  tlie  western  country, 
near  tlie  Allegany  or  Ohio  rivers,  he  will  have  saved  much  expense  and 
travel  by  landing  at  Raltimore  ;  from  thence  to  Pittsburg,  at  the  head  of 
the  Ohio,  is  about  200  miles  direct;  perhaps  not  more  than  210  by  the 
course  of  the  road.  A  few  days'  journey  will  bring  him  along  a  Hne 
turnpike  from  Baltimore,  nearly  to  Cumberland,  in  Allegany  county, 
(Md.)  from  whence  the  public  road,  begun  by  the  United  States, 
crosses  the  mountains,  and  is  to  touch  the  Ohio  at  Wheeling.  A  smart 
fellow,  in  a  little  time,  will  reach  Union,  in  Fayette  county,  Penn- 
sylvania. Here  is  a  flourishing  county  adjoining  Green,  Washington, 
and  Westmoreland,  in  any  one  of  which  may  be  fcund  almost  every 
thing  that  is  desirable,  and  a  population  hospitable  and  intelligent. 
From  Union  to  Pittsburg  is  but  a  day's  journey.  There  one  may  as- 
cend the  Allegany  river  to  the  upper  countries  ;  or  he  may  follow  the 
current,  and  descend  the  Ohio  to  the  state  of  that  name,  cross  it  to 
Indiana,  or  continue  his  voyage  to  Kentucky.  lie  may  proceed  to  the 
Mississippi  river,  and  go  up  it  to  St.  Louis,  in  the  Missouri  Territory, 
or  he  may  proceed  a  little  farther  up,  and  ascend  the  Illinois  river,  in 
the  Illinois  Territory.  Such  are  the  facilities  of  going  by  water  from 
Pittsburg  to  various  parts  of  the  west ;  'and  those  states  and  territories 
named  are  among  the  most  fertile  in  America. 

From  Philadelphia  to  Pittsburg  is  about  300  miles,  chiefly  through 
a  fine,  plentiful,  and  well-cultivated  country.  A  gentleman  in  Penn- 
sylvania, of  high  standing  and  information,  writes  to  a  member  of  this 
society :  "  Pennsylvania,  after  all,  is,  perhaps,  the  best  field  for  Irish 
capacity  and  habits  to  act  in,  with  i>rospecls  for  a  family,  or  for  in- 
ilivid'ial  reward.  Lands  of  the  finest  quality  ntay  be  had  in  this  state  for 
bartly  settling  and  remaining  five  years ;  the  advantage  derived  from  the 
emigrant,  being  the  encouragement  of  others  to   settle  and  purchase." 

•  Melith's  "  American  Traveller,"  containing  neat  lists  «f  roads  and  much  sUti»- 
t-«al  «nd  tupDgrupIiical  iafo:-ni:itiun,  is  a  gogd  fodtet  conipaaioa  for  the  stranger. 


>  i| 


i) 


\;mt 


m 

mi 


;:j^j 


HINTS    TO    F, MIGRANTS. 


Thnt  h,  l>y  '^'i'  '^^'s  of  Pennsylvania,  warrantci-s  must  make  an  actual 
uttlcmcnl  on  tlio  lamis  tlu'y  claim  to  hoUl  by  dofds  from  the  land-office. 
Ilcnrc,  trusty  pcrsotis  obtain  a  tlcod  for  a  part,  on  condition  of  clear- 
in;;  nccrtnin  quantity,  and  building  u  house  and  residing  there. 

In  our  state,  (of  New  Ymk,)  the  ad  van  taj^es  are  great,  whether  we 
rcgird  soil  or  situation,  or  roads,  lakes,  and  rivers.  Few,  if  any  states 
in  the  Union,  have  finer  land  than  the  great  western  district  of  New 
York.  It  has  risen  exceedingly  in  a  few  years,  and  the  price  will  be 
much  inrrcased  ns  socm  as  the  intended  canal  from  hikes  Erie  and 
Champlaiii  to  the  Hudson  rivrr,  shall  be  completed.  These  most  use. 
fit  and  magnificent  works  will  probably  be  begun  next  sunmur,  and  af- 
ford, for  several  years  to  come,  to  many  tliousands  of  industrious  poor 
men  an  oppertututy  of  enriching  themselves.  If"  prudent,  they  may 
realize  th.ir  c  \rni.i;;s  on  the  spot,  and  become  proprietors,  in  fee,  of 
landed  estates  in  thj  beauiiful  country  they  shall  havo  so  greatly  im- 
proved. 

From  no  otlir-r  rity  on  the  Atlantic,  can  a  person  sooner  reach  the 
country  than  by  minus  nf  tlie  Hudson,  and  the  roa^ls  that  branch  from 
the  towns  on  eit!;er  of  its  banks  Lands  of  good  quality  u)ay  still  be  pur- 
chased, even  in  t!io  midhnd  i)arts  of  New  York,  at  a  reasonable  rate. 

As  every  eiuigrimt  dof-s  not  mean  to  turn  farmer,  and  our  wish  is  to 
furnish  useful  l.ii.ts  to  various  classes,  we  will  here,  at  tlie  risk  of  repe- 
tition, state  tlic  ideas  of  a  genthinau  of  much  experience,  respectability, 
ani!  intelligence,  concerning  t!ie  pur.-iuits  of  different  persons. 

Those  who  have  acquired  useful  trades  will,  in  general,  lind  little  dif- 
ficulty, either  in  our  l;u-ge  cltits.  or  the  towns  and  villages  all  over  the 
country      There  are  vacancies  far  a  large  portion  of  thena. 

Clerks,  shupkeep'.irs,  or  attendants  in  stores,  are  seldom  wanted ;  their 
occu'f'ation  is  an  uncertain  one  ;  it  requires  some  time,  too,  for  such  per- 
FOTis  to  acquire  the  mode  of  doing  business  with  the  same  expertness  as 
natives  or  long  residents.  In  most  cases  a  sort  of  apprenticeship  is  to 
be  Kerved;  and  it'would  be  well  tor  persons  newly  arrived  to  engage  for 
►  ome  months  at  low»wages,  with  a  view  to  procure  the  necessary  experi- 
rnre.  Six  mouths  or  a  y^ar  spent  in  this  manner,  an  I  for  this  purpose, 
will  tit  a  man  for  making  better  use  of  his  future  years;  andhe  will  have  no 
occasion  to  repent  his  pains  :  we  would  press  this  on  your  consideration. 

Tiicsame  observations  nrc  applicable,  but  in  a  less  degree,  to  persons 
who  mean  to  apply  themselves  to  husbandry.  Some  local  peculiarities 
must  be  learned  even  by  them  ;  th(>  neglect  of  which  would  be  so  much 
the  more  uiexcusable,  us  the  knowledge  may  be  shortly  and  easily 
acquired. 

Those  who  have  money,  and  Intend  to  settle  here  in  any  line  of  busi- 
ness, would  do  well  to  vest  their  funds  in  some  public  stock,  or  deposite 
them  in  a  bank,  until  they  have  acquired  such  a  knowledge  of  the  coun- 
try, the  modes  of  life  and  business,  as  shall  enable  them  to  launch  into 
trade,  conmiejce,  or  manufactures,  with  safety.  ^To  loan  money  secure- 
ly, needs  great  care.  It  has  been  often  seen  that  persons  arriving  in  A- 
n'erica  with  some  property,  lose  it  before  they  prosper  in  the  world. 
The  reason  of  which  is  tlmt,  in  the  first  place,  they  begin  some  kind  of 
business  without  kr.owing  how  to  conduct  it ;  and,  in  the  next,  that, 
with  less  skill,  they  are  less  frugal  and  industrious  than  their  competitors. 
It  is  equally  observable,  that  persons  who  arrive  here  with  little  to  de» 


HINTS  TO    EMIGRANTS. 


G33 


Kend  on  besides  their  personal  exertions,  become  prosperous  at  last ;  'or 
y  the  time  tliey  have  earned  some  money  in  the  employ  of  others, 
they  will  have  learned  there,  likewise,  how  to  secure  and  improve  it. 

Tlie  delay  here  recommended  is  all  important  and  necessiirj'.  No- 
thing can  be  more  ruinous  to  strangers  in  this  country  than  headlong 
haste  in  those  plans  and  arrangements  on  which  their  future  fortune  en- 
tirely depends.  Many  a  fatal  shipwreck  has  been  uec.tNioned  by  preci- 
pitation ;  and  many  are  they  who  can  from  sad  experience  bear  witness 
to  this  truth.  Knowledge  of  modes  and  methods  must  be  ac(|aired  be- 
fore we  think  of  hazarding,  or  dream  of  acquiring  money.  A  man  igno- 
rant of  the  use  of  the  sword  might  as  well  fight  a  fencing  master  with 
that  weapon,  as  an  unexperienced  stranger  enter  the  lists  in  businesii 
with  these  who  are  adepts  in  their  trade.  But  in  giving  admonition,  l>;t 
Its  not  be  thought  to  present  discouragements  ;  a  little  pains  and  ob- 
servation will  qualify  a  man  of  si^nse  to  judge,  and  the  example  of  men 
here,  in  this  or  that  occupation,  is  well  worth  reg;irdin^.  The  people 
of  this  country  are  cast  in  a  happy  medium,  at  once  liberal  and  ciii- 
tious,  cool  in  deciding,  and  ardent  in  performing;  none  exceed  them 
in  acutsness  and  discernment,  and  their  conduct  is  generally  a  pattern 
that  may  be  followed  with  advantage. 

III.  Before  any  ottier  step  towards  forming  a  settlement,  the  stran- 
ger should  take  the  proper  measures  for  acquiring  citizenship:  and  the 
advantages  of  this  are  important  and  obvious,  independently  of  its  con- 
ferring political  privileges.  Without  it  you  will  remain  exempted,  in- 
deed, by  mild  laws,  from  wrong ;  but  destitute  of  some  valuable  positive 
rights.  The  alien,  in  most  of  the  states,  is  not  entitled  to  hold  any  lands, 
can  obtain  no  office  under  the  state,  nor  participate  in  the  shipping  in- 
terest  of  the  country. 

It  is  ht  the  emigrant  should  be  distinctly  apprized,  (for  It  will  con- 
ciliate his  attachment  and  gratitude  to  the  country  of  his  adoption, ) 
that  no  where  in  the  world  is  a  well-conducted  foreigner  received  into 
the  bosom  of  the  state  with  equal  liberality  and  readiness  as  in  Ame- 
rica. When  on  the  ith  of  July,  1776,  the  Congress  unanimously  adopt- 
ed a  Declaration  of  Independence,  and  delivered  their  country  from  the 
dominion  of  the  king  of  England,  this  was  one  of  tl .  complaints  alleged 
against  him :  "  he  has  endeavoured  to  prevent  the  ^ovulation  of  these 
states ;  for  that  purpose  obstructing  the  laws  for  nat  iralization  of  fo- 
reigners." The  same  liberal  feeling  has  prevailed  in  the  government 
of  the  United  States,  from  that  memorable  day  to  this,  with  one  excep- 
tion— during  the  administration  of  President  Adams.  The  stranger, 
however,  is  certainly  exposed  to  incidents  which  may  lead  him  to  doubt 
the  truth  of  this  assertion.  He  may  light  upon  an  ignorant,  a  preju- 
diced, or  illiberal  wretch,  who  will  manifest  an  ill  will  towards  him  be- 
bccause  he  is  a  foreigner,  and  perhaps  revive  British  and  royalist's  taunts 
in  a  new  form;  but  these,  the  scum  of  a  country,  are  totally  insignifi- 
cant, compared  with  the  mass  of  the  people.  The  best  men  in  America 
have  always  been  ready  to  welcome  the  valuable  emigrant — the  stranger 
of  moral  and  industrious  habits.  An  author,  eminent  as  a  statesmsn,  a 
scholar,  and  philosopher,  speaking,  in  big  Discourse  to  the  Philosophical 
Society  of  N.ew  York,  of  the  advantages  which  Cicero  boasted  that 
Rome  had  derived  from  Athens,  adds : 

"  We  are  perhaps  more  favoured  in  another  point  of  view.  x\  ttica  was 
peopled  from  E«vpt,  but  we  can  boast  of  our  descent  from  a  superior 

80 


<'l 


m 


i  m 


6r^4 


HINTS   TO    KMIORANTS. 


stock.  I  sppak  not  of  families  or  dynattiei ;  I  refer  to  our  origin  froru 
those  nations  where  civilization,  knnwludgu,  ami  refinement  have  erect* 
ed  their  empire,  und  where  human  nature  lias  attained  its  greatest  per- 
fection. Aniiihilute  Holland,  (ircat  Uriiain,  Ireland,  France,  and  ucr- 
niaiiy,  and  wiiat  would  become  of  civilized  man  i  This  country,  young  as 
it  in  would  bt;  ttie  f^reat  Atlas  remaining  to  support  the  dignity  o('th« 
world.  And  pertiups  our  min^'led  descent  from  various  nationn  mayhava 
obi-nign  influence  upon  geniiia.  Wu  perceive  the  improrine  eiTects  of  an 
anulngous  state,  upon  vegetables  and  inferior  animals.  The  extraordi- 
nary cliuractem  tlie  United  States  have  produced  may  be,  in  some  mea- 
sure,  nHcrtbed  to  the  mixed  blood  of  so  many  nations  lowing  in  our  veins; 
iind  it  may  be  confidently  said  that  the  operation  of  canset,  acting  whh 
ir^e»i^tible  elfcct,  will  carry  in  this  country  all  the  improvable  fauul- 
luh  i)f  human  nature  tu  the  highest  state  of  perfection." 

You  will,  however,  observe  that  the  privilege  of  citizenship  is  not 
granted  witliout  proper  precautions;  to  secure  that,  while  the  worthy 
ixsM  udiiiittcd,  tiie  unworthy  should,  if  practicable,  be  ritjected.  You 
will  from  hence  deduce  the  importance  of  good  moral  habits,  even  to 
tl>e  acquisition  of  political  rights. 

The  steps  ta  be  taken  by  a  foreigner  preparatory  to,  and  for  the  pur- 
pose of  his  bring  natunilizcd,  arc  those: 

Ut.  Ill-  must,  at  least  five  ^ears  before  he  can  be  admitted  a  citisea 
of  the  L'nited  States,  report  hmiself  at  the  office  of  one  of  the  courts  of 
record,  within  the  state  or  territory  where  he  may  be  ;  and  in  that  re- 
port Kt't  forth  lii.<i  name,  birth-place,  age,  nation,  and  prior  allegiance,  to- 
gether with  the  country  which  lie  has  U 11  to  come  into  the  United  States, 
und  the  place  of  his  intended  settlement.  In  general,  forms  of  this  re- 
|>ort  M  ill  be  furnished  by  the  clerk  ol  the  court,  who  will  also  give  a 
certificate  under  the  seal  of  the  court,  that  the  repart  has  been  made  and 
iled.  This  certificate  must  be  carefully  kept,  fur  the  purpose  of  being 
produced  at  the  time  of  applicatixa  fir  admission  to  citizenshipf. 

'Ihis  t-tep  of  reporting  one's  arrival  is  indispcnt-nble,  and  ought  to  be 
taken  as  soon  as  ueesible,  because  the  five  years  uf  probation  begin  to 
be  counted  only  from  the  date  uf  the  report ;  and  the  time  which  a 
tbrcigncr  may  have  previously  Bpint  in  die  country  cannot  be  rendered 
vf  any  service  towards  his  naturalization. 

2d.  At  least  three  years  before  the  alien  can  be  naturalized,  he  must 
appear  before  some  one  of  the  courts  of  record,  within  the  state  or  ter* 
ritury  where  he  may  be,  and  there  declare,  on  oath,  or  affirm,  that  it 
is  in  good  faith  his  intentiim  tu  become  a  citizen  of  tlie  United  States, 
to  renounce,  fur  ever,  all  allegiance  and  fidelity  to  any  sovereign  priiice» 
potentate,  state,  or  sovereignty,  whatever;  and  particularly,  by  name, 
to  the  prince,  potentate,  state  or  suvercign,  whereof  he  niuy,  at  the  time, 
be  a  citiaen  or  subject.  This  oath  or  afHrmation,  which  must  have 
been  made  at  least  three  years  before  admission  to  citizenship,,  may  be 
niude  at  any  convenient  time  a(U-r  the  ropcrt  of  arrival.  Indeed,  it  is 
t>omotiHies  made  on  the  same  day,  so  as  to  uave  trouble  and  prevent  di:i- 
iippuiutment  from  future  negligence  oi  forgetfulness.  lor  another  rea- 
son, thut  will  be  presently  pointed  out,  ttie  sooner  ii  it>  done  tite  safer 
and  the  better.  The  clerk  of  the  court  also  ^'ives  a  certificate  thai 
iMis  oath  or  affirmation  has  been  duly  nmile,  which,  like  the  former, 
inufil  be  carefully  kept  for  the  purj)Oac  oi"  bciue  pioJuCcJ  at  the  time  ol 
iip^>i%iu^  for  ualuializatijm 


HINTS  TO    FMICnANTS. 


635 


8  At  tills  period  tlie  apnlicnnt.  after  prrxlucing  hoth  tliosc  cortlfi- 
0«t('«,  must  (icclan?  on  nath,  or  airirnnUon,  bt'torosum;' one  of  the  i.-^rne 
courts,  thnt  ho  will  support  the  f«institution  of  the  I'nitod  Stnto^.  Me 
must  also  satihfy  the  court,  (whicli  ciuinot  bo  done  l)v  llie  apj)!icant 
himsv^lf,  and  is  usuiilly  done  hy  th«;  aHuhvitH  of  two  n.'spect  ib!*'  (.iti- 
BtiUf,  who  know  and  can  tchtify  to  th(!  facts,)  thuf  he  has  rotiJod  with- 
in  the  Uniti'd  States  five  year*  at  least,  and  within  tlic  sttte  or  f .'rri- 
tory  wlicrt!  ho  applies  to  be  achnilti'd,  ut  Icnnt  ono  year,  ami  thn:, 
ddi  infjT  such  time,  lie  has  behrtvcd  as  a  man  of  irood  moral  clmracter, 
attached  to  the  principles  of  the  constitution  of  thi?  T'nlti'd  State's, 
and  weil  disposed  to  the  good  order  and  hnppines><  of  thu  same.  The 
clerk  will  tlureupon  make  out  a  certificate  of  naturalization,  under  the 
seal  of  the  court,  which  should  be  carefully  kept,  and  ready  to  be  pro- 
duced whenever  it  niny  be  reipiisite. 

The  liberality  of  congress  has  extended  the  benefits  of  this  ac'm!*- 
sionto   citizenship,    beyond   those    win   perform    these  req  nisi  lef  ,  tor 
the  children  of  u  person  no  natiirali/.-d,  beiny  under  agr,  and  dweli- 
inp  in  the  ITn  ted  States  at  the  time  of  their  parrni's  naturalization,  al- 
so beeome  citizens.     And,  Htill  further,  if  any  alien  who  shall  have  re- 
gularly reported  himself,  and  mailc  oath  or  aifirmation  declaratory  of 
his  intentions,  (which,  as  we  liuve  seen,  must  precede  his  own  admis- 
sion by  three  years,)  should  unfortunately  die  before  he  was  actually 
naturalizofl,  his  widow  and  children  would  theneeforlh  be  coittiderod  as 
citizens  of  the  United  States,  and  be  entitled  to  all  rights  and  privileges 
M  such,  unon  taking  the  oaths  prescribed   by   law.     This  provision, 
therefore,  iurnishes   a  very  strong  inducement   for  losing  no  time  in 
takinjf  the  oath  declaratory  of  the  party'ii  intentiou. 

{Ho.  1  ) 

fieporl  gf  nn  Alien,  mnde  of 

himself  to  the    Clerk   of  the    Suprtme  Court   of  Judicature,  fi>r  the 
State  of  Nevi'  York,  in  the  Citi/  (>/  New  York,  the  dny  of 

one  thousand  eight  hundred  atid 


Name. 

Place 

uf     Age. 
Uirlli. 

Naticn. 

Allegianco 

Country 
from   whf'ice 
he  emigrates. 

Place  of  his 

iu  tended 

settlement. 

1 

i 

1 

i 

_ 

I  certify  tl\e  forcgaing  to  be  »  true  copy  of  the  original  Ilejport  and  Registry  re- 
maining in  my  office,  in  Uie  City  of  New- York,  as  Clerk  of  the  supreme 
Court  of  the  State  of  New- York.  In  testimony  whereof  the  Seal  of  tlie 
said  Court  is  hereto  affixed,  thia  day  of  one  tlioiisaml 

eight  hundred  and  «nd  in  tbt  Yc«r  of  the  indepoif 

dcnce  of  the  iJsdfi  SatM, 


M 


i'''l| 


(j;j6 


HINTS   TO    FMir.RANTS. 


( 


No.  '2.) 


in  til*  \tfur  of  our  Lord 


I  lirrrtiy  ceri'ify,  ihnt  on   tliix 
nrir  llii)UH.itiil  «>i;4lil  liunilnvl  and 

111'  tlu-  ciiy  nf  NVt«->.iii-,  ii|nu'«rr(l  in  ilic  ('mir» 

of  Common  1*U'0»,  ralli.l  tlic  Mwy.nA  Coiiri,  oftlir  rity  of  NVw-York,  iinil  tlun  ind 
t'.'erc  took  nnd  MiliMrili.>'l  an  oaiIi  uI  hii  intention  to  bt'conio  ■  tiliii'n  of  thr  I'niitMl 
>St«iti<«.  and  to  r«-h«iiiuv  lor  evrr  all  nllc;^i«m«  and  Hdoliiy  tu  any  foreign  priiiif,  paloii> 
t«te,  sti^to,  or  »«>vcrtignty  whatt-vcr.  and  pArticuUrly  l4» 

in  conformity  Ui  uit  ai.1  uf  iltc  CongreM  of  the  United  StAtr\  in 
that  cane  maJo  and  pruTided. 

ricrk. 

(No.  %) 
Onth  of  AUrifiutttr. 
ri»y  nnd  Ci  only  of  Now-^nk,  si.     1,  do  mnVt  oatli,   (<tr 

Affirm;  on  the  Iliily  l'.v,inj.Mlist*  of  Almijjiity  Go«l,  tliat  I  will  support  the-  ronsiifii- 
tion  of  the  I'niti'ii  Stili-s  and  that  I  do  Hlxkolutcly  nnd  rnlircly  rrnoiiiira  <«iid  iibjurv  all 
aflffjijiirc  and  fidelity  to  any  fviiign  priiuc,  potmtatf,  t<tat»  or  Mivereignty  tvhalwvr, 
iuiU  particularly  to  wheuuf  i  aiu  a  suhject. 

(No.  4.) 

Ceriiftcnle  of'  Luizennhip 

I'liitcd   Stiitps  of  America.     DiMrict  of 

n?  it  recommended,  that  a  wtiUcd  Distnct  Court  of  ihv   I'liifcd  .S»«tcs,  !ipld  f«»r  ihi' 

dintrlct  ol"  New  York,  at  the  city  of  Now  York,  on  the  day  of  in  »li» 

year  o(  our  Lord  one  Uiousand  eight  hundred  and  at  pr<'s<-nt  of 

the  ciiy  of  New  Ymk,  camt;  into  court,  and  applied  to  the  taid  court  tn  he  admitted 

to  liL'Comea  citizen  of  tht;  United  States  of  Ameiica,  purNuant  to  the  directions  of  thit 

act  of  thv  con^resii  of  tliu  UiitMl  States  of  America,  enntled  "  An  net  to  csti''    '   a 

uniform  rule  of  nuttiralizutioiv  and  to  repeal  the  act  heretofore  pa»»ed  on  that  hiii-  .tt  -. 

•nd  also  to  an  act  entitled  nn  act    in  addition  to  an  act  eiUitlud  An  act  to  ettablibh  an 

iiiiiforin  rule  of  naturalization,  and  to  repeal  the  tlie  nets  heretofore  par>sed  on  that  sidi- 

ject."     And  the  said  having  thereupon   product^  to  the  (ourt  such  v\\- 

ileiice,  and  muiK'  such  dwclaration  and  renunciiition  as   is  by  the  said  actn  rcquirivJ , 

thereupon  it  wus  considered  by  tlic  siiid  court,  that  the  said 

he  admiiied,  and  he  was  accordingly  admitte<l  by  (he  said  cour^. 
to  he  a  citizen  of  the  United  States  of  America. 

In  testimony  whereof  the  seal  of  the  said  court  is  hurcunto  aflixed. 

Witnehs,  the  liouuurable  Ew).  jodg* 

of  thcsuid  court,  at  the  city  of  New   ^'ork,  this  day  of 

in  the  year  of  the  Independence  of 

the  United  Stitjs. 

Clerk  of  the  District  of  Now  York- 


In  Oie  interval  between  the  eiuigraiu'a  choosing  a  place  of  abode, 
and  computing  the  tivo  year;,  of  probationary  ro*idenco,  which  must 
♦  lapse  biilbre  he  can  bucorue  a  citizen  of  the  United  States,  he  will  do 
Mtil  to  familiarize  Liinaclf  with  tlie  slate  of  parties,  and  acquire  a  cor- 
rect knowledge  of  our  constitutions  of  civil  government.  He  will 
Ix'conie  a  respectable  and  capable  citizen  in  proportion  to  his  infor- 
ir.uiion  and  virtue.  Liberality  and  justice  are  the  leading  principles 
of  tiur  governnunt,  which  as  it  secures  liberty  and  property,  neither 
iiiukcs  iiur  iiutFers  religious  distinctions. 

Iso  euiigiant  ought  to  stay  one  week  in  the  country  without  en- 
tkavouring  to  procure  the  Constitution  of  the  United  States,  and,  at 
lea.-t,  thut  of  the  state  in  which  he  means  to  reside.  The  Federal 
Constitution,  and  those  of  the  several  states,  are  printed  and  bound 
together  in  a  neat  pocket  volume,  with  the  Declaration  of  Independ- 
ence, and  form  a  political  Bible,  well  deserving  the  study  ot  every 
rcHocting  republican. 

The  greater  part  oi'  our  state  constitutigns  were  formed  soon  after 


HIMTS   TO    EMIlIRAN'TS. 


fi37 


the  declaration  of  Independence  was  proclaimed  by  C'ongrins.  I>y 
thciii  are  regulated  the  internal  local  relatiun«  of  citi/onn  in  «acii 
state ;  they  constitute  tho  main  guurdn  of  our  freedom,  Tiic  ^;cn  rnl 
govrrnmunt  (wliouc  conBtitution  wu«  formed  bv  delc^uten  from  twi-lvo 
vtates,  assembled  in  Convention  at  Pliiludulpliiu,  in  17>7)  bus  tlio 
sole  direction  of  our  foreign  allUirH,  and  tlio  mutual  relations  of  tlij 
ktatCM.  'I'lie  (.government  of  the  United  States  is  admin'stured  by  a 
I'rcnident  and  Vice-president,  elected  for  four  years ;  by  a  senate,  of 
two  mem?>ers  from  each  ktate,  elected  for  six  yearn  ;  by  a  hou^e  of 
representatives,  chosen  for  two  years,  by  the  pc'opic  ;  um!  by  judges, 
Ac.  appointed  according  to  law.  The  senators  are  elected  by  tlio 
HtatCH,  and  this  feature  of  the  Constitution  is  deeni'jd  Federal;  tlio 
representatives  are  elected  by  the  people,  and  heru  the  Constitution 
is  more  particularly  national. 

In  each  of  the  states  there  is  a  governor  and  two  leiiislativu  branclio!) 
chosen  by  the  people,  or  their  representatives,  acconliiig  to  «!.ic!i  con. 
stitution.  The  governor,  in  each  statu  is,  by  virtue  of  Iiis  otHcc,  com* 
iiiunder  in  chief  of  the  militia  of  the  same. 

When  tlie  Fi'derul  Constitution  was  formed,  it  was  laid  beftire  titc 

fcople,  who.  in  each  state,  chose  a  convention  to  adopt  or  reject  it. 
t  was  debated,  in  every  convention,  with  uncommon  ardour  ;  and, 
fiDully,  adopted  in  1788.  The  speeches  made  on  tlioste  occasions  shed 
(itrearas  of  light  on  the  science  of  government,  and  its  just  division  of 
of  powers  ;  neither  foreigners  nor  natives  can  reail  them  too  carefully. 

During  the  discussion  of  the  Federal  Constitution,  advocates  of  some 
of  its  most  federative  provisions  were  called  I'ederalists  ;  their  oppo- 
nents anti-Federalist.  Hut  when  it  was  adopted,  it  became  the  law  to 
all,  and  was  in  all  its  parts  sincerely  agreed  to  by  all ;  those  opposite 
terms,  therefore,  ceased  to  be  properly  applicable  any  longer.  Yet 
a  political  party  seized  hold  of  the  epithet,  which  was  merely  occa- 
sional, and  have  made  it  pcrpctuil.  They  are  called  Federalists  to 
this  day,  without  any  reference  to  the  origin  of  the  terra ;  the  oppo- 
site party  are  known  as  Republicans  or  Democrates,  terms  significant 
of  their  attachment  to  popular  government.  Th"  Federal  party,  ua 
the  contrary,  or  to  speak  more  correctly,  many  of  their  leaders,  are 
thought  to  have  a  leaning  towards  aristocracy. 

We  ought  never  to  be  the  slaves  or  dupes  of  mere  names ;  and  it 
will  become  the  duty  of  a  good  citizen  to  act  with  one  |)arty  or  the 
other,  as  far  as  he  thinks  its  means  more  honourable,  and  its  object's 
more  just. 

When  the  Federal  party  were  in  power,  a  law  was  passed  author- 
izing the  President  of  the  United  States  to  send  friendly  aliens  out  of 
the  country,  on  mere  suspicion,  without  the  intervention  of  judge  or 
jury !  This  is  remembered  ai  the  Alien  Act.  Moreover,  citizenship 
could  not  be  then  acquired  without  a  previous  residence  of  fourteen 
years. 

On  the  4th  of  March,  ISOl,  a  Democratic  administration  came  into 
power ;  President  Jefferson  having  been  chosen  instead  of  Mr.  Adams. 
The  acts  of  the  goverment  soon  manifested  a  more  liberal  spirit.  The 
following  passage,  from  Mr.  Jefferson's  message  to  Congress,  Decem- 
ber 8th,  1801,  had  its  iiduence  on,  or  harmonized  with,  the  general 
opinion  as  to  the  impolicy  (to  ^ay  tlie  least)  of  the  inhospitable  acts 
which  we  havoju'it  nieiuioued: 


nt 


m 


63$ 


niKTS  TO   BMICIUMT9f 


"  I  cannot  omit  recommending  a  revisal  of  jthe  l^wi  on  the  subject 
of  naturalization.  Considering  the  prdinarary  chances  of  human  life, 
A  denial  of  citizenship,  under  a  rjesidence  of  fourteen  years,  is  a  denial 
to  a  great  proportion  of  tlipse  who  ask  it,  and  controuls  a  oolicy  pusued 
fruai  tl)eir.fir»^  settlement,  by  many  of  the  states,  an4  stil;  believed  of 
consequence  to  their  prosperity,  &c.  &c.  The  constitution,  indeed, 
lias  w^ely  provided  that,  for  admission  .to  certain  Offices  of  important 
trusty  a  resiJcuce  shall  be  required  sulficient  to  develope  cuaracter 
?ind  dcsjgn.  But  might  not  the  general  character  and  capahilitios  of 
a  citizen  be  safely  communicated  to  every  one  manifesting  3  bona  tide 
purpose , of  en^bar  king  his  life  and  fortunes  permanently  with  us.?" 

Let  us  not  be  suspected  of  indulging  in  n^rriw  prcjudicett,  of  inflam- 
ing party  feelings,  or  saying  that  one  set  of  politicians  are  exclusivtly 
the  friends  of  aliens,  another,  entirely  hostile  ;  we  have  given  you 
specimens  of  the  policy  of  each.  The  sentiments  of  Mr.  JefKrson,  just 
citied,  reflect  great  credit  on  his  head  and  heart.  So  far,  however, 
from  inviting  aliens  to  plunge  into  politics,  we  dissuade  them 
from  it.  It  is  their  duty  to  be  modest  o'jscrvers  of  parties  and  prin- 
ciples; it  is  their  part  to  form  correct  opinions,  but  not  to  meddle; 
to  see,  but  not  to  touch :  to  look  on.  but  not  to  interfere,  until,  hav. 
ing  been  Bye  yedrs  spectators  of  the  busy  and  important  movements  of 
fi  Ration  of  freemen,  they  may  become  actors  in  their  turn,  under  the 
./ioleran  obligation  yvhich  citizenship  imposes. 

The  source  of  every  blessing,  and  itself  the  mo«t  valuable  of  all  which 
America  offers  to  the  enaigrant,  is  ^  degree  of  civil  and  political  Uber* 
ty,  more  ample  ^nd  bejtter  secured  in  this  republi.c,  tlian  any  where 
in  the  whole  world  besides. 

The  principles  of  liberty  which  are  embodied  in  our  frame  of  go- 
vernmeht  and  in  our  laws,  branch  out  likewise  through  every  depart- 
ment  of  society,  mould  our  manners,  and  determine  the  character 
even  of  ov^r  4oipe^tic  relations.  They  have  the  effect  of  producing, 
generally,  in  the  deportment  of  individuals,  who  know  neither  su- 
periors nor  inferiors,  a  certain  degree  of  ease  and  dignity  that  is 
equally  removed  from  servility  and  arrogance.  It  is  one  of  the  prac- 
tical results  of  (hose  principles  that  the  poorer  classes  in  this  commu- 
nity are  more  civilized,  more  polite  and  friendly,  though  not  so  sub- 
missive, as  persons  of  the  same  fortunes  in  Eurcpe.  They  are  alto 
usually  followed  by  impartial  justice  in  the  equal  distribution  of  family 
property.  Henc^  opulence  is  rarely  seen  to  accumulate  on  one  branch, 
while  others  languish  in  genteel  bei^gary.  As  there  is  no  where  an 
aristocratic  establishment,  the  ampMtude  of  the  community  is  never 
broken  up  into  little  compar(mciits  envious  and  contemptuous  of  each 
other.  £yery  man's  range  of  occupation  is  extended,  while  every 
st^te  is  held  wortiiy  pf  resp,ect.  Honest  industry  no  Adhere  derogates, 
but  the  facility  of  providing  for  a  family  is  every  where  enlarged. 

Nothing  is  more  worthy  of  regard  than  the  contrast  between  the 
general  demeanor  of  Europeans  living  here,  and  what  is  alleged  ot  the 
name  peqple ,  ^nd  others  similar  to  them,  whilst  under  the  yoke  of 
trans-atlantic  governments.  In  New- York  city  alone,  there  are  sup- 
posed jo  be  nut  less  thaA  twelve  thousand  Irish,  and  the  number  of 
all  other  foreisner^  may  probably  be  as  many.  The  othe"  great  cities 
«f  th^  l^niteiT  Statea  have  an  equal  proportion,  accordmg  to  their 


HIKIS   TO    (MIGRANTS. 


639 


population ;  and  emigrants  from  the  old  world  arc  settled,  and  in  pro- 
gress of  settlement,  every  where  throughout  the  Union ;  yet*  here 
they  are  never  accused  of  sedition  or  rebellion,  or  conspiracy  against 
the  government.  They  are  never  disarmed  by  a  military  force,  and 
no  magistrate  trembles  when  they  provide  themselves  with  ammuni- 
tion.  They  are,  inde«d,  among  the  most  strenuous  supporters  of  the 
government ;  and  it  is  evident  that  a  country  may  exist  m  the  utmoft 
good  order,  peace,  and  prosperity,  under  such  a  system  of  law  as 
they  are  willing  to  maintain  with  their  lives*  It  is  manifest,  there- 
fore, tliat  if  the  laws  were  in  Europe  what  they  arc  here,  Europe 
need  not  drive  her  children  into  exile.  The  same  meo  viho  are  CdUed 
rebels  there,  are  esteemed  and  tranquil  citizens  here,  without  having 
changed  their  nature  or  their  sentiments.  But  here  the  law  is  made 
by  the  majority,  for  the  good  uf  the  greater  number ;  and  for  this 
reason,  it  is  essentially  equal  and  impartial.  It  prohibits  nothing  but 
what  is  in  itself  morally  wrong.  Hence,  there  are  fewer  laws,  and 
fewer  transgressions ;  but  wheu  a  real  transgression  happens,  an  ofleu' 
ded  community  is  always  prompt  to  support  the  law  ;  for  it  then  vin* 
dicates  its  own  decision,  and  its  own  safety.  It  is  ol'tcn  detested, 
because  it  seems  tu  be  the  penalty  uf  Providence,  that  inordinate 
power  shall  always  corrupt  the  holder,  and  can  never  be  possessed 
without  being  followed  by  such  a  train  of  eriU,  so  much  wretched- 
ness to  those  who  endure,  and  so  much  depravity  in  those  who  exercise 
itj  that  it  is  felt  to  b«  a  forced  state,  and  a  pervcni««a  of  nature, 


4 


A^oa 
Avr 


INDEX 


TO  THE 


PRINCIPAL  COUNTRIES,  TOWNS,^SJi:AS,  RIVERS,  ^c 


H 


MENTIONED    IM   THE' FORECOINO    WORK. 


A. 

Ailsa  Crais; 
AlaWama  river 
Albany 

Albemarlr*  sound 
Alexandria,  I).  C.  . 

.  Ohio 

Allegany  river,     .  / 

mouutains 

Alnwick 

Altamaha  river  . 

Alum  creek         .  . 

Amboy 

Amlierst 

Annapolis 

Appalachy  river     . 

Appamattox  river 

Arkansas  river 

Arran  island 

Ashley  river 

Ashtabula  rirer     . 

Athens,  Geo. 

Atlantic  ocean   2S,  54, 

Auburn 

Authterraouchty 
Au  Claise  river 
AujTusta,  Geo. 

A^on  .  ^ 

Ayr 


107 


30, 


207 


'105, 


210. 
201, 


50, 
239, 


BanbridgP,  Uk. 
,  Oh. 


B. 


IJalienlrae 
Ihllston  springs 


Paga. 

2« 
SQO 
5jG 
187 
150 
358 
318 
305 
223 
207 
425 
293 

83 
142 
274 
162 
380 

2S 
200 
409 
20S 
474 
257, 
202 
527 
230 
470 
2(57 
359 
518 
249 

242 
4'21 
'239 
553 


T]all3'iiaiiincl) 

Baltimore         .         .  I 

Banks  of  Newloundland 

Barnstaple  .  • 

Basi  .  • 

Batavia 

Beanlstown 

Beargra"!s  creek 

Beauford  • 

BeauFort 

Beaver 

— — —  creek 

Bedford  .  . 

Belfast 

Bellepre  .  • 

Bennington  • 

Benson  treek 

Bergen 

Btrm'idas  .  • 

Berwick 

Beibiehem 

Rig  Bellv's  creek 

Big  Boiieti(k  creek 

Birmingham 

Black  Mingo  creelv 

river,  N.  C. 

river,  S.  C. 

rivtr,  1  OL.is.  « 

river,  IMis-. 

river,  Oliio 

I'ick  . 

Bladentburg 
BiannejbDS-^clt's  1  land 
Bloody  run  • 

Blooirfield  . 

Blue  lick 
B'oUcit 


37. 


Page' 
24(» 
2S0 
262 
U.i 
224 

5 1  :i 

41 'J 
39t» 
1S9 

200 

457 

304 
25  fr 
351 

8G 
397 

Jp9 
30 
22;. 
37 '2 
425 
'}07 
234 
193 
184 
19.-. 
3  St) 
390 
401 
439 
144 
350 
30,3 
51S 
409 
221 


Ir. 


"if  I 

■ 


i 


■", 


042 


INDEX. 


Bonavista  . 

Bordentown 
Boston 

Brandywine  creek 
Bristol,  R.  I. 
.  Penn. 


British  Possessions  in  North 

Anserica 
Broaiialbin 
Brookfield 
Brooklyn 
Brownsville 
Brunswick,  Vcr. 

,  N.  J. 

Brush  creek         . 
Buffalo 
— — ^  cretk 
Bunker's  hill 
Bun's  milis 
Burlington,  Ver. 
— .N.J. 


Pogc. 

499 

113,  294 

77 

135,  29  V 

70 

115,  294 


Charleston,  IVlas% 
,  N.  H. 


Burns'  birth-place 

Bury 

Byram  river 

^  C. 

Caledonia 
Cambahee  river 
Cambridge,  Mass. 
Canadaway 


Canandaigud 


lake 


Caneserago  hulluw 
Canton 

(Canton  district 
Cape  Breton 
—  Clear 

Fear 

— —  Fear  rivtr         . 

Hatlcras 

Look  ( >at 

Carlisle,  Penn. 

,  Eiig 

Cascades  in  Virginia 
CatarayoB  creek 
Cavf  s;  III  Virginia 
Cayahoga  river 
Cnyuga 

lake 

("!hai;rin  river 
Cliambernb>ir«j 
Ckauipiaiii,  lake 


493 
550 
89 
56 
.  540 
86 
110,293 
421 
107,  48.'} 
486 
79 
540 
86 
113,294 
249 
222 
102 

517 

200 

88 

482 

107,  519 
105 
530 
445 
446 
499 

212,  257 
187 
184 
187 
187 

132,  298 
218 
167 
433 
168 

449,  455 
527 


105, 


527 
404 
299 
105 


.,  S.  C. 
-.  Va. 


Charles  river 
Charley 
Charlottesville 
Chatahonchy  river 
Chataughque  lake 
Chesapeake  bay 
Chesnut  ridge 
Chester 

river 

Chillicothe 
Chillicothe  district 
Chippaway 

—  creek 

Choptank  river 
Cincinnati 
Cincinnati  district 
Clarksville 
Clear  creek,  Ky. 

,  Ohio 

Cleveland 
Clyde  river 

Firth 

C«hoes  falls 
Colchester 

Columbia,  dis'rict  of 
Columbia,  S.  C. 
Comptoi) 

,  Little 

Conaquenesinjjt  crtik 
Concord,   N.  H. 

,  Mas.-. 

Conecuh 
Connecticut 


—————  river 

■      reservation 
Connedogwinet  croek 
Connecocheague  trei  k 
Conewago  hrlis 

creek 

Conneought 
Cooper  river 
Coosaw  river 
Coshocton  » 

Cashsokia 
Cove  of  Cork 
CraCisbury  , 

Ciieir 
Cumberland  river 


Page. 

79 

83 
196 
339 

79 
221 
172 
207,  390 
105 
137,  141 
309 
255 
141 
423 
424 
490 
490 
HI 
301 
3tiJ 
378 
397 
428 
4.i.'i 

2,5 

555 

ITJ 

l/yj 

20'J 

70 

70 

3'24 

83 

9,*j 

390 

9« 

91 

457 

2'»» 

301 

29  (j 

2'j(i 

.    46M 

200 

200 

441 

5.5  y 

O  j  ij 

86 

22Q 


INDEX- 

613 

Page. 

Page. 

Cumbernauld 

• 

228 

FdlmoQlh               . 

172 

Cupar,  Fife 

« 

235 

Fayetteville 

185 

D. 

Firth  of  Forth 

234 

Dalkeith 

• 

251 

of  Tay 

236 

Danbury 

• 

• 

]00 

Fislikill 

559 

Danville 

• 

« 

413 

Film  river 

207 

Darien 

• 

208 

Fort  M.indan 

385 

Dayton 

• 

475 

Niagara 

496 

Dedham 

• 

7fi 

ScliloMer 

509 

Deer  creek 

• 

425 

VVillian;8 

293 

Deerfield 

• 

• 

475 

Forth  and  Clyde  canal 

228 

Delaware 

• 

• 

139 

Fox  river 

393 

114,  ] 

134,285, 

• 

294 

Frankford 

1 15 

Derby  creek 

425 

Frankfort 

397 

^*?tioit 

• 

• 

462 

Franklinton                 . 

475 

Donaghadee 

• 

241, 

248 

Fredericksburg 

158 

Dover,  N.  H. 

• 

• 

83 

Fredericktowji               , 

142 

,  Del. 

• 

I3t) 

French  grant 

358 

Duwningsiovrn 

• 

295 

Frenchiown 

285 

Dowiipatrick 

• 

248 

French  creek 

141 

Dromnre 

• 

242 

G. 

Dumbianc 

• 

• 

228 

Galllopolis 

35* 

Dutnfiies 

• 

• 

158 

Gap  Hill 

295 

Dunbar 

• 

• 

224 

Gennessee  river 

105,  517 

Dundee 

• 

236 

Geneva 

107,  524. 

Dundrum  bay 

• 

241, 

243 

Georgia 

206 

Durham,  N.  H. 

• 

83 

George,  lake 

105 

,  Eng. 

• 

223 

Georgetown,  Del. 

136 

Dysart 

E. 

• 

234 

,  D.  C. 

O      CI 

146 

195 
337 

Eagle  creek 

■ 

417 

,  Va. 

East  Canada  creek 

547 

Kv 

41? 

^  1  «# 

East  river 

« 

63 

Gerardeau 

387 

Edenton 

• 

4 

189 

German  ocean 

223 

Edinburgh 

• 

224 

,237 

Gifvan 

239 

Edistu  river 

• 

200 

Glades 

307 

Elizabethtown, 

N.J. 

• 

110 

Glasgow 

25,   226 

Penn. 
point 

* 

296 
293  . 

Gnadenhutten 
Grand  island 

443 

490 

Elk  creek 

• 

• 

480 

Niagara 

506 

river 

1 

• 

141 

river 

464 

EUicotl's  creek 

• 

510 

Greenock 

26 

Enkefatioke  swamp 

• 

207 

Greensburg,  Geo. 

263 

Erie 

• 

480 

,  Peno. 

310 

,  lake 

• 

452, 

459 

Green  river 

412 

Exeter 

• 

• 

83 

Greenwich,  East 

70 

F. 

GietnaGieen 

219 

Fs^irfield 

• 

• 

98 

Gulf  Stream                 . 

33 

Falkland 

• 

• 

230 

Gutgatsink  creek 

434 

Falls  of  Niagara 

• 

491 

H. 

Falls  of  Ohi» 

• 

37  « 

Hac1<;ensack  rlrer 

\m 

m 


^    «!,• 


6ii 

Uidjington 
Hdt;ar«ilovvii  . 

Ilalitax,  N.  C. 

,  Eny. 

.  N.  y. 

Ilallowftll 
lianiilton,  Scot. 

,  Ohio 

Hampton 
Hanover 
.  ■  f  »     Court  Hou.^e 


JNDEX. 


Kauhaway,  Little 
Kansas  river 
Kaskaskia 

river 

Kaiskill 
Keerie 
Kendal 

Keneconeck  creek 
Keniucky  . 
river 


— ,  Vir. 


.t'V'  Harmony 
'•^Hamsburg  • 

Harlem 
Hart  lord,  Cot>. 

,  N.  Y. 

Havre  de  Grace 
Hell  Gate 
Hurkimer 
HilUborowgb,  N.  C 

,  he. 

Hills  in  Conneciicut 
Hockhocking  river 
liolldud  purc'l)a^t; 
-    Jl(UJf  oy.fc  .cretjj. 

Horse  netk  •     li 

Housaionic  river 
Hoyle,  lake 
Hudson 

liver 

Huron,  lake         • 

river 

I. 
lUluois  river. 
— — —  territory      '  i 
J fuliana  Territory 
'    ijjswich 
I^iiiidsin  Lake  Liie 

J. 
Jalksonborongh 
Jatiiaica,  L.  L 
James  river 
.icirfrsonville 
Jersey 
Johnstown 
Jonatlian  creek 
Juniata  river 

K. 
Kunhaway  river 


X'agc. 
iOO 
224- 
142 
lt>9 
222 

105 
220 
4.73 
172 

83 
\5'J 
172 
321 
291 
102 

90 
533 
291 

63 

107,  545 

189 

242 

99 
429 
5J2 

.     .  Am 

08 
213 
105,  559 
105 
4ti2 
401 

Lexington 

383  Liiking  riv«r 

383 trtck 

.  .-    .    -    381  LiHiestone         . 

,     Q:i  Xitcfafield 

460  Little  falls 
Lisburn 

,    .  41  Liverpool  • 

269  Loch  Ryan 

161  LocLeiby  , 

378  Lomond  [lills 

]U9  Londoo 

549  Long  Isliiud 

430 sound 

130,  302  Long  Ueach  • 

Lon«to\vn         • 

16G;  354  Louiiburij         . 


Killbucks  creek 

Kills 

Kilmarnock  . 

Kindt rhook 

Kiii<{liorn         .  . 

Kingston,  N.  J.  . 

,  Upper  Canada 

Kirkaldy 
Knoxville 

L. 
Lancaster,  Penn. 

,  Eng. 

Langholm 
Lansingburjj 
(.aurel  Hil) 
^•cVanon 
X^ecds  ,  ^   , 

Lehigh  river 
Leicester 
Le  Roy 
Letari's  falls 
Levvisiown,  Del. 
— ,  N.  Y. 


Page', 
16d 
380 
383 
383 
559 
83 
218 
427 
411 
372,  398,  412 
434. 


2y3 
238 
559 
234 
110 
501 
559 
234 
40G 

132,  29fi 
217 
251 
107 
309 
475 
.     222 
129 
89 
517 
353 
130 
503 
401 
412 
434 
359,411 
99 
54<i 
243 
214,  255 

2:j9 

.     .      219 

236 

,     '        252 

101.,  209 

63 

342 

2ly 

4i;9 


INDEX. 


VA5 


Lou'siaia 


-Tculiory 


Ixjuisville,  Ceo. 

■ ,  Kttu 

Lower  Caiuuia 
LmrbifiUn 
Lynchc'u  treek 
Lynn 


45 


M. 


Macliiis  . 

Madisan,  Georfiia 

,  L.d.  T. 

Maine,  D.sliict  of 
Maiden 
Manchester,  Ver. 

,  Virg. 

.  lirii,'. 

,  Olrio 

iMaiilius  square 
?.Iaple  sv^amp 
Maiblelicad 
Miirieita 
Marielta  district 
Marlborough 
l\iarylaf>d         . 
Massachusetts 
Mnitapony  river 
M*Ct(iuitlstown 
Mchenin  rirer 
Melhven 
Mexiiano  river 
Miami  river 
— of  the 


363 


lakes 


bay 
country 


Michigan,  laUe 

Tornlory 

Michiliuiackinac  ttiails 
'Middltbury 
Middletoa,  Con. 

'— ^— ,  I'-y. 

•————,  Ken. 
Milledgeviile 
IVlilleisburg 
Millfori 

Milton 

Misiiissippi  river  , 

— — Tt'irilory 

Missouri  river 

■ ,  LiUlc 

Mohawk  rivrr 

Mohecan  John's  creek 

Mofl'at  , 


rago. 

P.IJ'O. 

388 

Moiii  rivi  r 

• 

3  SO' 

3S5 

INI  inongahclji 

130 

317 

302 

Mi):i»;.ri!ier 

• 

86 

377 

M  inucal 

• 

50  J 

500 

Morgiinio'Aii 

• 

180 

ISU 

M.:ri.(!Jli 

• 

223 

VJ2 

Moi'.ivain-.  in  TVca  I 

!'jn)r 

•\{nv, 

«C' 

80 

in  Vt.ruijiii 

S5 

— —  in  ]\Ltssaihu.-.» 

Its 

02 

05 

■ in  Niiv  York 

104 

QGl 

—  in  I'tniv^ 

ylv.mia 

122 

3'1'2 

— • — — —  in  Plary 

aud 

111 

05 

— — in  Virginia 

103 

501 

in  North 

C'arr 

li;n 

m7 

8G 

in  Soutl. 

Car- 

!i!ia 

•200 

112 
2'2\ 

t '» 

lOJi 

\u  Tennessee 

[ib'J 

in  Ktniuiky 

412 

530 
192 

ana 

385 
■J50 

Mud  rreidi 

• 

93 

Mu-skuij^uin  river 

• 

317 

433 

3H. 

M  nihil 

• 

22  S 

31S 

Mystic  rivtr 

• 

79 

89 

N. 

140 

Nanticoke  rivrr 

• 

Ml 

02 

Narri;;;nnset  bay 

• 

tJ7 

15Q 

Narrows  ut  New  Y 

ork 

5« 

302 

Nashville             • 

« 

40'» 

l(i|. 

Natchcs 

• 

302 

220 

Natural  bridge  in  \ 

'irginia 

102 

3SS 

Newark,  N.  J, 

• 

110 

•I'Jl 
470 

O 

475 
501 

,  u.  C. 

• 
• 

490 

470 

,  bay 

• 

i20S 

'   303 

Newbern 

• 

IbO 

4(32 

New  Brunswick 

• 

400 

402 

Newbur-,' 

107 

553 

4C2 

Ne-A!.i;iy 

• 

f-fi 

S(i 

Nev,  bnrj  port 

• 

03 

100 

Newcastle,  Del. 

• 

135 

285 

I9(i 

.Va, 

• 

172 

307 

,  ling. 

• 

'223 

208 

,  Ire. 

• 

• 

24^^ 

40y 

New  ConiL^rstowii 

• 

44i* 

I'S 

New  fane 

• 

ba 

551 

Newfoniidiand 

• 

490 

393 

New  Hampshire 

• 

82 

3'JO 

Newhaven 

• 

07 

385 

New  Jersey 

* 

112 

380 

Lisbon 

» 

474 

105 

London 

■ 

Ct     90 

434 

Lancaster 

• 

428 

219 

— —  Madrid 

• 

3b7 

64G 

— — Orleans 

Hiila  ie'phia 

■Newpoit,  K.  I. 
-,Ky. 


36+ 


Ntwry 
Jjewif)wn,  L.  I. 
Ke%v  Y«rk 

city  56    102     259 

272 
Niagara,  Fort 

river  . 

Nimshillutt  ciet-k 

Norfolk 

Norttiamptoii 

North  Carolina  • 

— —  B';rwick  Ia»v 

— — -  mountain  . 

Northallerton  , 

Northwcft  Territory 

Norwalk  .  . 

Norwich  « 

Nose  .  « 

Notch  .  • 

Nottaway  river  , 

Nouin<^hain 

Nova  Scotia  . 

Nase  river  .  . 

O. 
Oakmulgre  river  . 

Occoquhan  creek  • 

Oconee  river  . 

Ogeeche  river 

,  little 

Ohio  river,      .         335     373 
Ohio  company's  puichase 
Ohio,  state  ot 
Oneida  Lake 

— river 

Onondago  lake  • 

^. —  court-house        • 

.1  hollow 

salt  works 

Oatario  county 
Oroiskirk 
Orleans  Territory 
Osage  river         .        • 
Ouisconsin  river  • 

Owasca  lake  . 

Oxforii  .  . 

P. 
Paint  creek 
Paisley  .  • 

Pamiico  sound 


INDEX. 

Page. 
3SU 
443 

05 
413 
242 
26y 
104 
2d8 
55^ 
4y6 
504 
445 
171 

93 
187 
221. 
301 
223 
384 

98 

99 
547 

82 
164 
252 
499 
183 


Pamunky  river 
Paris 

Paiagoula 
Passuic  river         , 
Passamaquuddy 
Patapscu  river 

— —  creek 

Pailihedd 
Patterson  . 

Paiuckct 

liver 

Patuxt-nt  river 
Ptarl  river 
Pedec  river,  big 
-,  little 


Peckskill. 

P(-nn)>ylvania  .  . 

Penriih 

Perth 

Petersburg,  Vir. 

Petersburg,  Geo.  • 

Philadelphia  116     280 

Piscataqua  river 

PitKlmrg         .         .  132 

Piilsfield 

Placentia 

Piatt  river  .  . 

Pocomoke  river 
207      Point  Pleasant 
157      Port  Glasgow  . 

207      Portland 
207      Portaferry 

207     Port  Patrick  .         239 

410     ——Royal 
347     Portsmouth,  N.  II. 

470 ,Vir. 

105 ,  Ohio 

105     Port  William 

105     Potomac  river 

529      Poughkeepsie  .         107 

529     Prtscott 

529      Preston 

521      Princeton        .         .         Ill 

217      Providence 

388 river 

386  Q. 

384     Quarantine  ground,  N.  Y.  56 

105     Quebang  river 

254     Quebec 

Queenstowu 
422  R. 

25     Raisin  river  .  " 

187      lUleigh 


rage. 
159 
40S 
390 
109 

95 
141 
14.1 
235 
113 

73 

73 
141 
390 
192 
191 
559 
128 
2l^ 
233 
163 
208 
294 

82 
314 

93 
499 
386 
141 
35+ 

2« 

95 
248 
249 
172 

83 
172 
358 
372 
146 
559 
221 
217 
293 

67 

^7 

259 

89 

500 

501 

462 
184 


iiandt 


INDEX. 


Rapidt  of  Niagara  river 

Rappahannock  river         . 

Kariton  river 

Kay's  Hill 

—  -  Milla 

Reading 

Reedy  creek 

Redhouk 

Red  river 

Rhode  Island 

Richmund 

springs,  Geo.      48 

Roanoke  nver  . 

Ro(  hdale 

Itocky  river  .  455 

Holing  river 

ftome  . 

HHfielville  .     I 

Rutland 

Ifye 

Hynbeck 

S. 
Sub'Peiivtr 
Sacket's  harbour 
Saleni,  Mas«. 

,N.  J. 

.  N.C.      ■  . 

Salt  creek         .  • 

Sandy  Ilook 
Sandy  river,  Bi^j 

rreek,  O. 

,  N.  Y. 

iiandusky  biy  4(Jl 

—     — river         .         461 
Santee  river 
Sassafras  river 

Savannah  .35     20.5 

— —  —  river  31   37  52  .51 


Scioto  river 

Sheneetady 

Schuylkill 

Scrub  Hill 

Sea  islands 

Selkirk 

Seneca  lake        '  ; 

river 

Shap  fell? 

Sheffield 

Shelby  ville 

Sill  nandoah  livtr 

Shippeiisburii 

Shippingporr 

.'Jhoeiibrua 


358 


105 


Page. 
490 
159 
293 
302 
266 
132 
191 
559 
386 
69 
160 
267 
183 
222 
461 
412 
107 
413 
86 
102 
559 

3&6 
533 

80 
113 
189 
425 

55 
412 
357 
540 
470 
470 
192 
141 
261 
205 
425 
107 
127 
302 
207 
251 
424 
527 
218 
252 
397 
166 
298 
SIS 
443 


Shrewsbury 

Sidling  Hill 

Sidney,  Cape  Breton 

Sippo  creek 

Skeneateleas         .  105 

lake 

Skerries  lights 
Smithfield 
Somerset 
South  Carolina 

Kingston 

Sparta  .  .         208 

Spencer 

Si'rinpfield,  Mas?. 

.  O. 

St    Albans  .  . 

—  C'larlfs 

—  r.lair,  l.nke 

—  Chnr^vlllft 

—  rVancis  river 

—  Hnro 

—  John's,  N.r. 

—  John's  Isl  .nd 

—  Iiouis 
~  Mary's 

river 

Stamford 

Siaien  Island  104 

Statisfical  tablo  of  Ohio 

nf  N.  York 

of  U.  Stati;s 

Siannton 
Stpubenville 

— district 

Stillwater  creek 

Stirling  .  , 

Siockbridge 

Stony  river 

point 

Stratlijid 
Straogford 

Suobury  .  , 

SufljfM' 
Sullblk 
Sugar  creek" 
Sollivau's  Island 
Stisqtiehannah  river 
Swaiawra  crettk 
Swimming  creek 
Swiss  vineyards 
Symmca*  f  urcliase 
T. 
Tachc  river 


129 


647 

Pago. 
255 
302 
49:» 
425 
528 
105 
257 
172 
307 
199 
70 
265 
8!^ 
91 
430 

387 
462 
47  4 
386 

8f; 
49f) 
499 
387 
208 
207 

98 
271 
472 
560 
5o7 
172 
3S7 
337 
434 


f)3 

383 

Sin 

254 

248 

89 

91 
172 

434 
268 
297 
296 
190 
371 


iS8 


6  IS 

Tarli'in 
T.ir  river 

r!vcr 


rirc;- 

Th?!n.";  livrr 
Tinki  ru.reek 
Tingii  river 
TiMi'icanoc  river 
Tollaiwl 
Tcry  islaml 
To'ie.vantarrpek 
Tiai!«  wind* 
Treiii<»n 
■  — - — •  brill  gu 
Trny 

Tumbfkby  tivcr 
Tmtlf  crcfek 
Tu^carawa  river 
T'JSf.  T  ri)fk 
T)bfe  ii^lit-bousi 
I 
(Jnitctl  Si;»f«"s 
Up['<'r  Canntht 
Urbaima,  Va. 
IJlica 


V. 


»«5  , '  f 


y)o 


50!) 


IN'DtX. 

IH'J 
428 

is:j 

93 
07 

405 
405 

Q9 
450 
129 
3SI 
100 

28 
511 

32 
123 
114 
107 
29) 
310 
44« 
212 
205 


•ISD 


Vi-rmillioi)  livf  r 

Vermont 

Versa!  I  If"? 

Vincennes 

Virf;inia 

Viruioia  niilltarv  ]mu\- 

VV. 
WabT^!\  rvcr 
Wak-aidiiiica  crock 

Wallip-r-rl 
Waliiul  uet  k,  O. 

. ,  Pen;-. 

WnhliRm 
^Vnr^en,  H.  T. 
Warreiiton,  N  ('. 
Warringfoii,  Km;^ 
Warren,  (). 
Washin<^ton 

-— — — ,  Per  r. 

Wa'ertcwu,  TVIasj. 
f  •  -'•      ■      - 


4P0 


G05 


Ml. 
2t8 


501 
501 
172 

SS2 

401 
85 
413 
382 
102 
427 

'S81 
4k) 

251 

07 

425 

•KS'J 

88 

70 

183 

221 

17  4 

280 

181) 

200 

411' 

88 


WftttrfonJ  ,  107 

\Vi<tt'rio*n,  N,  Y. 
Wtiynehborcugh         .       141 
VVenilnTkiieUI 
Weslbornugh  .  . 

West  C'uiada  rrcck         . 
We!*i  Cq\h\  of  Scotland 
WenUTM  • 

county 

Wrsion 

W«at  Union 

Whfclin.:?       .  172     23D 

White  njour.laiiii 

WbilP  river 

Whetsione  river 

While  vVoman's  creek 

VVilliamdburg.  Va, 

,  O. 

WillianisUnvu  . 

Will's  orcek 

Wilmington.  DJ.  130 

— • —  'p  N.  C»        • 

Wilton 

Wind^  in  the  Atlantic 

WmJsor, 'VtT.        .        ,.1 

C.  ■''(.i'': 
on. 

Windham  .  "  '. . 

Winchester,  Vir.        •".'    ! 

en. 

Winnipisco^-ec  Ulr6i)t 

Wi.ca<.iei  .-.  *,  ^    • 

Worcester  '' '    ,'       '    " 

Wood.!)iidge     ■'**.', 

Wortl-in^toii    ■■' 

•    Y.'-  . 

YankfvTcvva  , 

Yazf'o  river         .        *    "  . 

YilUnv  Breeches  creek 

Yellowstone  river 

Yo'k,  !*«». 

,  jMass. 

,  Va. 

,   Upper  Canada 

.  Inland 

.  Kiver  .  '. 

Ycxbiogeni  river 


Z. 


Z\nesvi1ie 

Zoiioropie 
Zenia 


district 


Page- 
551. 
540 
267 
100 

8!» 
5ii 
249 

90 
309 

89 
420 
340 

82 
S81 
4f.> 
434 
172 
475 
540 
434 
291 
189 
103 

32 

•0 

§5 
100 

82 
*  89 

no 

475 
442 

S9;) 

2S8 
386 
132 
95 
172 
501 
102 
15!) 
131 

430 
433 
38? 

475 


■V'  ' 


>.  Od:.   riN'iS. 


J  •■  ■(■ 


107 


141 


239 


ISO 


-'.! 


Page- 

,5,U 

540 

267 

100 

8!) 

5VS 

24f> 

90 

309 

89 

420 

340 

82 

S81 

4f.> 

434 

172 

475 

640 

434 

201 

18[) 

IQfl 

32 

B(i 

9(1 

100 

172 

4IS 

82 

95 

^  8J 

110 

47".' 

442 
£90 
2S8 
386 
132 

or, 

172 
501 
102 
15!) 
131 

430 
433 
335 

475 


:'l-jv:;!y;i', 


